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THE 


CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON 

TRAIL 


BEING 

SKETCHES    OF    PRAIRIE    AND    ROCKY 
MOUNTAIN  LIFE 


BY 

FRANCIS  PARKMAN,  Jr 


..r^-'"^^ 


Let  him  who  crawls  enamor'd  of  decay. 
Cling  to  his  couch,  and  Mcken  years  away  ^ 
Heave  his  thick  breath,  and  ehake  his  paleud  head  ; 
Ours— the  fresh  turf,  and  not  the  feverish  bed. 

Byron. 


NEW  YORK 

HURST  &  COMPANY,   Publishers 
134  AND  136  Granp  Street 


Mv^  hi* 


The  journey  which  the  following  narrative  describes  was 
undertaken  on  the  writer's  part  with  a  view  of  studying  the 
manners  and  character  of  Indians  in  their  primitive  state.  Al- 
tliougli,  in  the  cliapters  which  relate  to  them,  he  has  only 
attempted  to  sketch  those  features  of  their  wild  and  pictur- 
esque life  which  fell,  in  tlie  present  instance,  under  his  own 
eye,  yet  in  doing  so  he  has  constantly  aimed  to  leave  an  im- 
pression of  their  character  correct  as  far  as  it  goes.  In  justi- 
fying his  claim  to  accuracy  on  this  point,  it  is  hardly  neces- 
sary to  advert  to  the  representations  given  by  poets  and 
novelists,  which,  for  the  most  part,  are  mere  creations  of 
fancy.  The  Indian  is  certainly  entitled  to  a  high  rank  among 
savages,  but  his  good  qualities  are  not  those  of  an  Uncas  or 
an  Outalissi. 


ill 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.  The  Frontier, 7 

II.  Breaking  the  Ice, 13 

III.  Fort  Leavenworth, 21 

IV.  "Jumping  Off," 24 

V.  "The  Big  Blue," 33 

VI.  The  Platte  and  the  Desert,        .        .       _       .  47 

VII.  The  Buffalo, 58 

VIII.  Taking  French  Leave, 71 

IX.  Scenes  at  Fort  Laramie, 83 

X.  The  War  Parties, 96 

XI.  Scenes  at  the  Camp, 113 

XII.  Ill  Luck, 129 

XIII.  Hunting  Indians, 134 

XIV.  The  Ogallalla  Village, 154 

XV.  The  Hunting  Camp, 171 

XVI.  The  Trappers, 189 

XVII.  The  Black  Hills, 197 

XVIII.  A  Mountain  Hunt, 200 

XIX.  Passage  of  the  Mountains, 210 

XX.  The  Lonely  Journey, 223 

XXI.  The  Pueblo  and  Bent's  Fori 239 

XXII.  TtTE  Rouge,  the  Volunteer,        ....  245 

XXIII.  Indian  Alarms, 249 

XXIV.  The  Chase, 258 

XXV.  The  Buffalo  Camp, 265 

XXVI.  Down  the  Arkansas, 277 

XXVII.  The  Settlements, 291 

T 


THE 

CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE    FRONTIER. 

Away,  away  from  men  and  towns 
To  the  silent  wilderness, 

Shelley. 

Last  spring,  1846,  was  a  busy  season  in  the  city  of  St. 
Louis.  Not  only  were  emigrants  from  every  part  of  the 
country  preparing  for  the  journey  to  Oregon  and  California, 
but  an  unusual  number  of  traders  were  making  ready  their 
wagons  and  outfits  for  Santa  Fe.  Many  cf  the  emigrants, 
especially  of  those  bound  for  California,  were  persons  of  wealth 
and  standing.  The  hotels  were  crowded,  and  the  gunsmiths 
and  saddlers  were  kept  constantly  at  work  in  providing  arms 
and  equipments  for  the  different  parties  of  travelers.  Almost 
every  day  steamboats  were  leaving  the  levee  and  passing  up 
the  Missouri,  crowded  with  passengers  on  their  way  to  the 
frontier. 

In  one  of  these,  the  Radnor,  since  snagged  and  lost,  my 
friend  and  relative,  Quincy  A.  Shaw,  and  myself,  left  St. 
Louis  on  the  28th  of  April,  on  a  tour  of  curiosity  and 
amusement  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  boat  was  loaded 
until  the  water  broke  alternately  over  her  guards.  Her 
upper  deck  was  covered  with  large  wagons  of  a  peculiar  form, 
for  the  Santa  Fe  trade,  and  her  hold  was  crammed  with  goods 
for  the  same  destination.  There  were  also  the  equipments  and 
provisions  of  a  party  of  Oregon  emigrants,  a  band  of  mules 
and  horses,  piles  of  saddles  and  harness,  and  a  multitude  of 
nondescript  articles,  indispensable  on  the  prairies.  Almost 
hidden  in  this  medley  one  might  have  seen  a  small  French 
cart,  of  the  sort  very  appropriately  called  a  "  mule-killer " 


8  THE  CALIFOUMIA  AND  OREQOK  TRAIL. 

beyond  the  frontiers,  and  not  far  distant  a  tent,  together  with  a 
miscellaneous  assortment  of  boxes  and  barrels.  The  whole 
equipage  was  far  from  prepossessing  in  its  appearance  ;  j^et, 
such  as  it  was,  it  was  destined  to  a  long  and  arduous  journey, 
on  which  the  persevering  reader  will  accompany  it. 

The  passengers  on  board  the  Hadnor  corresponded  with  her 
freight.  In  her  cabin  were  Santa  Fe  traders,  gamblers,  specu- 
lators, and  adventurers  of  various  descrijJtions,  and  her  steer- 
age was  crowded  wdth  Oregon  emigrants,  "mountain  men," 
negroes,  and  a  party  of  Kansas  Indians,  who  had  been  on  a 
visit  to  St.  Louis. 

Tlius  laden,  the  boat  struggled  upward  for  seven  or  eight 
days  against  the  rapid  current  of  the  Missouri,  grating  upon 
snags,  and  hanging  for  two  or  three  hours  at  a  time  upon  sand- 
bars. We  entered  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri  in  a  drizzling 
rain,  but  the  weather  soon  became  clear,  and  showed  distinctly 
tlie  broad  and  turbid  river,  with  its  eddies,  iis  sand-bars,  its 
ragged  islands,  and  forest-covered  shores.  The  Missouri  is  con- 
stantly changing  its  course  ;  wearing  aw^iy  its  banks  on  one 
side,  while  it  forms  new  ones  on  the  other.  Its  channel  is 
shifting  continuallj^  Islands  are  formed,  and  then  Avashcd 
away  ;  and  while  the  old  forests  on  one  side  are  undermined 
and  sw^ept  off,  a  young  growth  springs  up  from  the  new  soil 
upon  the  other.  With  all  these  changes,  the  water  is  so 
charged  with  mud  and  sand  that  it  is  perfectly  opaque,  and  in 
a  few  minutes  deposits  a  sediment  an  inch  thick  in  the  bottom 
of  a  tumbler.  The  river  was  now  high  ;  but  w^hen  we 
descended  in  tlie  autumn  it  was  fallen  very  low,  and  all  the 
secrets  of  its  treacherous  shallows  were  exposed  to  view.  It 
was  frightful  to  see  the  dead  and  broken  trees,  thick-set  as  a 
military  abatis,  firmly  imbedded  in  the  sand,  and  all  pointing 
down  stream,  read}^  to  impale  any  unhappy  steamboat  that  at 
high  water  should  pass  over  that  dangerous  ground. 

In  five  or  six  days  we  began  to  see  signs  of  the  great  west- 
ern movement  that  was  then  taking  place.  Parties  of  emi- 
grants, \vith  their  tents  and  wagons,  would  be  encamped  on 
open  spots  near  the  bank,  on  tlieir  way  to  the  common  rendez- 
vous at  Independence.  On  a  rainy  daj^,  near  sunset,  we 
reached  the  landing  of  this  place,  which  is  situated  some  miles 
from  the  river,  on  the  extreme  frontier  of  Missouri.  The  scene 
was  characteristic,  for  here  were  represented  at  one  view  the 
most  remarkable  features  of  this  wild  and  enterprising  region. 
On  the  muddy  shore  stood  some  thirty  or  forty  dark  slavish- 
looking  Spaniards,  gazing    stupidly  out  from  beneath    their 


THE  CALIFOHNlA  AJSU  OliEGON  TUAIL.  d 

broad  hats.  They  were  attaclied  to  one  of  the  Santa  Fe  com- 
panies, whose  wagons  were  crowded  together  on  the  banks 
above.  In  the  midst  of  these,  crouching  over  a  smoldering 
lire,  was  a  group  of  Indians,  belonging  to  a  remote  Mexican 
tribe.  One  or  two  French  hunters  from  the  mountains,  with 
their  long  hair  and  buckskin  dresses,  were  looking  at  the  boat ; 
and  seated  on  a  log  close  at  hand  were  tliree  men,  with  rifles 
lying  across  their  knees.  The  foremost  of  these,  a  tall,  strong 
figure,  with  a  clear  blue  eye  and  an  open,  intelligent  face, 
might  very  well  represent  that  race  of  restless  and  intrepid 
pioneers  whose  axes  and  rifles  have  opened  a  path  from  the 
Alleghenies  to  the  western  prairies.  He  was  on  his  way  to 
Oregon,  probably  a  more  congenial  field  to  him  than  any  that 
now  remained  on  this  side  the  great  plains. 

Early  on  the  next  morning  we  reached  Kansas,  about  five 
hundred  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  Here  we 
landed,  and  leaving  our  equipments  in  charge  of  my  good 
friend  Colonel  Chick,  whose  log-house  was  the  substitute  for 
a  tavern,  we  set  out  in  a  wagon  for  Westport,  where  we  hoped 
to  procure  mules  and  horses  for  the  journey. 

It  was  a  remarkably  fresh  and  beautiful  May  morning. 
The  rich  and  luxuriant  woods  through  which  the  miserable 
road  conducted  us  were  lighted  by  the  bright  sunshine  and 
enlivened  by  a  multitude  of  birds.  We  overtook  on  the  way 
our  late  fellow-travelers,  the  Kansas  Indians,  who,  adorned 
with  all  their  finery,  were  proceeding  homeward  at  a  round 
pace  ;  and  whatever  t\\Qj  might  have  seemed  on  board  the 
boat,  they  made  a  very  striking  and  picturesque  feature  in  the 
forest  landscape. 

Westport  was  full  of  Indians,  whose  little  shaggy  ponies 
were  tied  hy  dozens  along  the  houses  and  fences.  Sacs  and 
Foxes,  with  shaved  hearls  and  painted  faces,  Shawanoes  and 
Delawares,  fluttering  in  calico  frocks  and  turbans,  Wyandottes 
dressed  like  white  men,  and  a  few  wretched  Kansas  wrapped 
in  old  blankets,  were  strolling  about  the  streets,  or  lounging 
in  and  out  of  the  shops  and  houses. 

As  I  stood  at  the  door  of  the  tavern,  I  saw  a  remarkable 
looking  person  coming  up  the  street.  He  had  a  ruddy  face, 
garnished  with  the  stumps  of  a  bristly  red  beard  and  mus- 
tache  ;  on  one  side  of  his  head  was  a  round  cap  with  a  knob 
at  the  top,  such  as  Scottish  laborers  sometimes  wear  ;  his  coat 
was  of  a  nondescript  form,  and  made  of  a  gray  Scotch  plaid, 
with  the  fringes  hanging  all  about  it  ;  he  wore  pantaloons  of 
coarse  homespun,  and  hob-nailed  shoes  ;  and  to  complete  his 


10  THE  CALIFORNIA   AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

equipment,  a  little  black  pipe  was  stuck  in  one  corner  of  his 
mouth.  In  this  curious  attire,  I  recognized  Captain  C.  of  the 
British  army,  wlio,  with  his  brother,  and  Mr.  R.,  an  Englisli 
gentleman,  was  bound  on  a  hunting  expedition  across  the  con- 
tinent. I  had  seen  the  captain  and  his  companions  at  St. 
Louis.  They  had  now  been  for  some  time  at  Westport,  mak- 
ing preparations  for  their  departure,  and  waiting  for  a  re-en- 
forcement, since  they  were  too  few  in  number  to  attempt  it 
alone.  They  might,  it  is  true,  have  joined  some  of  the  parties 
of  emigrants  who  were  on  the  point  of  setting  out  for  Oregon 
and  California  ;  but  they  professed  great  disinclination  to  have 
any  connection  with  the  "  Kentucky  fellows." 

The  captain  now  urged  it  upon  us,  that  we  should  join  forces 
and  proceed  to  the  mountains  in  company.  Feeling  no  greater 
partiality  for  the  society  of  the  emigrants  than  they  did,  we 
thouglit  the  arrangement  an  advantageous  one,  and  consented 
to  it.  Our  future  fellow-travelers  had  iitf tailed  themselves  in 
a  little  log-house,  where  we  found  them  all  surrounded  by  sad- 
dles, harness,  guns,  pistols,  telescopes,  knives,  and  in  short 
their  complete  appointments  for  the  prairie.  R.,  who  professed 
a  taste  for  natural  history,  sat  at  a  table  stuffing  a  woodpecker  ; 
the  brother  of  the  captain,  who  was  an  Irishman,  was  splicing 
a  trail  rope  on  the  floor,  as  he  had  been  an  amateur  sailor. 
The  captain  pointed  out,  with  much  complacencj^,  the  different 
articles  of  their  outfit.  "  You  see,"  said  he,  *'  that  we  are  all  old 
travelers.  I  am  convinced  that  no  party  ever  went  upon  the 
prairie  better  provided."  The  hunter  whom  they  had  employed, 
a  surly  looking  Canadian,  named  Sorel,  and  their  muleteer,  an 
American  from  St  Louis,  were  lounging  about  the  building. 
In  a  little  log  stable  close  at  hand  ^vere  their  horses  and  mules, 
selected  by  the  captain,  who  was  an  excellent  judge. 

The  alliance  entered  into,  we  left  them  to  complete  their 
arrangements,  while  we  pushed  our  own  to  all  convenient  speed. 
The  emigrants  for  whom  our  friends  professed  such  contempt 
were  encamped  on  the  prairie  about  eight  or  ten  miles  distant, 
to  tlie  yumber  of  a  thousand  or  more,  and  new  parties  were 
constantly  passing  out  from  Independence  to  join  tiiem.  They 
were  in  great  confusion,  holding  meetings,  passing  resolutions, 
and  drawing  up  regulations,  but  unable  to  unite  in  the  choice 
of  leaders  to  conduct  them  across  the  prairie.  Being  at  leisure 
one  day,  I  rode  over  to  Independence.  The  town  was  crowded. 
A  multitude  of  shops  had  sprung  up  to  furnish  the  emigrants 
and  Santa  Fe  traders  with  necessaries  for  their  journey  ;  and 
there  was  an  incessant  hammering  and  banging  from  a  dozen 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  11 

blacksmiths'  sheds,  wliere  the  heavy  wagons  were  being 
repaired,  and  the  horses  and  oxen  shod.  The  streets  were 
thronged  with  men,  horses,  and  mules.  While  I  was  in  the 
town,  a  train  of  emigrant  wagons  from  Illinois  passed  through, 
to  join  the  camp  on  the  prairie,  and  stopped  in  the  principal 
street.  A  multitude  of  healthy  children's  faces  were  peeping 
out  from  under  the  covers  of  the  wagons.  Here  and  there  a 
buxom  damsel  was  seated  on  horseback,  holding  over  her  sun- 
burnt face  an  old  umbrella  or  a  parasol,  once  gaudy  enough, 
but  now  miserably  faded.  The  men,  very  sober-looking  coun- 
trymen, stood  about  their  oxen  ;  and  as  I  passed  I  noticed  three 
old  fellows,  who,  with  their  long  whips  in  their  hands,  were 
zealously  discussing  the  doctrine  of  regeneration.  The  emi- 
grants, however,  are  not  all  of  this  stamp.  Among  them  are 
some  of  the  vilest  outcasts  in  the  country.  I  have  often  per- 
plexed myself  to  divine  the  various  motives  that  give  impulse 
to  this  strange  niigration  ;  but  whatever  they  may  be,  whether 
an  insane  hope  of  a  better  condition  in  life,  or  a  desire  of  shak- 
ing off  restraints  of  law  and  society,  or  mere  restlessness,  cer- 
tain it  is  that  multitudes  bitterly  repent  the  journey,  and  after 
they  have  reached  the  land  of  promise  are  happy  enough  to 
escape  from  it. 

In  the  course  of  seven  or  eight  days  we  had  brought  our 
preparations  near  to  a  close.  Meanwhile  our  friends  had  com- 
pleted theirs,  and  becoming  tired  of  Westport,  they  told  us 
that  they  would  set  out  in  advance  and  wait  at  the  crossing  of 
the  Kansas  till  we  should  come  up.  Accordingly  R.  and  tlie 
muleteer  went  forward  with  the  wagon  and  tent,  while  the 
captain  and  his  brother,  together  with  Sorel,  and  a  trapper 
named  Boisverd,  who  had  joined  them,  followed  with  the  band 
of  horses.  The  commencement  of  the  journey  was  ominous, 
for  the  captain  was  scarcely  a  mile  from  VVestport,  riding 
along  in  state  at  the  head  of  his  party,  leading  his  intended 
buffalo  horse  by  a  rope,  when  a  tremendous  thunderston:i 
came  on,  and  drenched  them  all  to  the  skin.  They  hurried 
on  to  reach  the  place,  about  seven  miles  off,  where  R^was  to 
have  had  the  camp  in  readiness  to  receive  them.  Hut  this 
prudent  person,  when  he  saw  the  storm  approaching,  had 
selected  a  sheltered  glade  in  the  woods,  where  he  pitclied  his 
tent,  and  was  sipping  a  comfortable  cup  of  coffee  while  the 
captain  galloped  for  miles  beyond  through  the  rain  to  look 
for  him.  At  length  the  storm  cleared  away,  and  the  sharp- 
eyed  trapper  succeeded  in  discovering  his  tent  :  R.  had  by 
this  time  finished  his  coffee,  and  was  seated  on  a  buffalo  robe 


12  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL, 

smoking  his  pipe.  The  captain  was  one  of  the  most  easy-tem- 
pered men  in  existence,  so  he  bore  his  ill  luck  with  great  com- 
posure, shared  the  dregs  of  the  cojffee  with  his  brother,  aiid 
laid  down  to  sleep  in  his  wet  clothes. 

We  ourselves  had  our  share  of  the  deluge.  We  were  lead- 
ing a  pair  of  mules  to  Kansas  when  the  storm  broke.  Such 
sharp  and  incessant  flashes  of  lightning,  such  stunning  and 
continuous  thunder,  I  had  never  known  before.  The  woods 
were  completely  obscured  by  the  diagonal  sheets  of  rain  that 
fell  with  a  heavy  roar,  and  rose  in  spray  from  the  ground  ;  and 
the  streams  rose  so  rapidl}'  that  we  could  hardly  ford  them. 
At  length,  looming  through  the  rain,  we  saw  the  log-house  of 
Colonel  Chick,  who  received  us  with  his  usual  bland  hospi- 
tality ;  while  his  wife,  who,  though  a  little  soured  and  stiff- 
ened by  too  frequent  attendance  on  camp-raectings,  was  not 
behind  him  in  hospitable  feeling,  supplied  us  with  the  means 
of  repairing  our  drenched  and  bedraggled  condition.  The 
storm,  clearing  away  at  about  sunset,  opened  a  noble  prospect 
from  the  porch  of  the  colonel's  house,  which  stands  upon  a 
high  hill.  The  fiun  streamed  from  the  breaking  clouds  upon 
the  swift  and  angry  Missouri,  and  on  the  immense  expanse  of 
luxuriant  forest  that  stretched  from  its  banks  back  to  the  dis- 
tant bluffs. 

Returning  on  the  next  day  to  Westport,  we  received  a  mes- 
sage from  the  captain,  who  had  ridden  back  to  deliver  it  in 
person,  but  finding  that  we  were  in  Kansas,  had  intrusted  it 
with  an  acquaintance  of  his  named  Yogel,  who  kept  a  small 
grocery  and  liquor  shop.  Whisky  by  the  w^ay  circulates  more 
freely  in  Westport  than  is  altogether  safe  in  a  place  where 
every  man  carries  a  loaded  pistol  in  his  pocket.  As  we  passed 
this  establishment,  we  saw  Vogel's  broad  German  face  and 
knavish  looking  eyes  thrust  from  his  door.  He  said  he  had 
something  to  tell  us,  and  invited  us  to  take  a  dram.  Neither 
his  liquor  nor  his  message  was  ver}^  palatable.  The  captain 
had  returned  to  give  us  notice  that  R.,  who  assumed  the 
direction  of  his  part}'-,  had  determined  upon  another  route 
from  tffat  agreed  upon  between  us  ;  and  instead  of  taking 
the  course  of  the  traders,  to  pass  northward  by  Fort  Leaven- 
worth, and  follow  the  path  marked  out  by  the  dragoons  in 
their  expedition  of  last  summer.  To  adopt  such  a  plan  with- 
out consulting  us,  we  looked  upon  as  a  very  high-handed  pro- 
ceeding ;  but  suppressing  our  dissatisfaction  as  well  as  we 
could,  we  made  up  our  minds  to  join  them  at  Fort  Leaven- 
worth, where  they  were  to  wait  for  us. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  13 

Accordingly,  our  preparation  being  now  complete,  we  at- 
tempted one  fine  morning  to  commence  our  journey.  The 
fir^  step  was  an  unfortunate  one.  No  sooner  were  our  ani- 
mals put  in  harness,  than  the  shaft  mule  reared  and  plunged, 
burst  ropes  and  straps,  and  nearly  flung  the  cart  into  the 
Missouri.  Finding  her  wholly  uncontrollable,  we  exchanged 
her  for  another,  with  which  we  were  furnished  by  our  friend 
Mr.  Boone  of  Westport,  a  grandson  of  Daniel  Boone,  the 
pioneer.  This  foretaste  of  prairie  experience  was  very  soon 
followed  by  another.  Westport  was  scarcely  out  of  sight, 
when  we  encountered  a  deep  muddy  gully,  of  a  species  that 
afterward  became  but  too  familiar  to  us  ;  and  here  for  the 
space  of  an  hour  or  more  the  cart  stuck  fast. 

CHAPTER  II. 

BREAKING   THE    ICE. 

Though  sluggards  deem  it  but  a  foolish  chase, 
And  marvel  men  should  quit  their  easy-chair, 

The  weary  way  and  long,  long  league  to  trace; — 
Oh,  there  is  sweetness  in  the  praiHe  air, 

And  life  that  bloated  ease  can  never  hope  to  share. 

Childe  Harold. 

Both  Shaw  and  myself  were  tolerably  inured  to  the  vicissi- 
tudes of  traveling.  We  had  experienced  them  under  various 
forms,  and  a  birch  canoe  was  as  familiar  to  us  as  a  steamboat. 
The  restlesness,  the  love  of  wilds  and  hatred  of  cities,  natural 
perhaps  in  early  years  to  every  unperverted  son  of  Adam,  was 
not  our  only  motive  for  undertaking  the  present  journey.  My 
companion  hoped  to  shake  off  the  effects  of  a  disorder  that  liad 
impaired  a  constitution  originally  hardy  and  robust  ;  and  I 
was  anxious  to  pursue  some  inquiries  relative  to  the  character 
and  usages  of  the  remote  Indian  nations,  being  already 
familiar  with  many  of  the  border  tribes. 

Emerging  from  the  mud-hole  where  we  last  took  leave  of 
the  reader,  we  pursued  our  way  for  some  time  along  the  nar- 
row track,  in  the  checkered  sunshine  and  shadow  of  the  ^oods, 
till  at  length,  issuing  forth  into  the  broad  light,  we  left  behind 
us  the  farthest  outskirts  of  that  great  forest,  that  once  spread 
unbroken  from  the  western  plains  to  the  shore  of  the  Atlantic. 
Looking  over  an  intervening  belt  of  shrubbery,  we  saw  the 
green,  oceanlike  expanse  of  prairie,  stretching  swell  over  swell 
to  the  horizon. 

It  was  a  mild,  calm  spring  day  ;  a  day  when  one  is  more 


14  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

disposed  to  musing  and  reverie  than  to  action,  and  tlie  softest 
part  of  his  nature  is  apt  to  gain  the  ascendency.  I  rode  in 
advance  of  the  party,  as  we  passed  through  the  shrubbery,  and 
as  a  nook  of  green  grass  oflFered  a  strong  temptation,  I  dis- 
mounted and  lay  down  there. ,  All  the  trees  and  saplings  were 
in  flower,  or  budding  into  fresh  leaf  ;  the  red  clusters  of  the 
maple-blossoms  and  the  rich  flowers  of  the  Indian  apple  were 
there  in  profusion  ;  and  I  was  half  inclined  to  regret  leaving 
behind  the  land  of  gardens  for  the  rude  and  stern  scenes  of 
the  prairie  and  the  mountains. 

Meanwhile  the  party  came  in  sight  from  out  of  the  bushes. 
Foremost  rode  Henry  Chatillon,  our  guide  and  hunter,  a  fine 
athletic  figure,  mounted  on  a  hardy  gray  Wyandotte  pony.  He 
wore  a  white  blanket-coat,  a  broad  hat  of  felt,  moccasins,  and 
pantaloons  of  deerskin,  ornamented  along  the  seams  with 
rows  of  long  fringes.  His  knife  was  stuck  in  his  belt ;  his 
bullet-pouch  and  powder-horn  hung  at  his  side,  and  his  rifle 
lay  before  him,  resting  against  the  high  pommel  of  his  saddle, 
which,  like  all  his  equipments,  had  seen  hard  service,  and  was 
much  the  worse  for  wear.  Shaw  followed  close,  mounted  on 
a  little  sorrel  horse,  and  leading  a  larger  animal  by  a  rope. 
His  outfit,  which  resembled  mine,  had  been  provided  with  a 
view  to  use  rather  than  ornament.  It  consisted  of  a  plain, 
black  Spanish  saddle,  with  holsters  of  heavy  pistols,  a  blanket 
rolled  up  behind  it,  and  the  trail-rope  attached  to  his  horse's 
neck  hanging  coiled  in  front.  He  carried  a  double-barreled 
smooth-bore,  while  I  boasted  a  rifle  of  some  fifteen  pounds 
weight.  At  that  time  our  attire,  though  far  from  elegant, 
bore  some  marks  of  civilization,  and  offered  a  very  favorable 
contrast  to  the  inimitable  shabbiness  of  our  appearance  on  the 
return  journey.  A  red  flannel  shirt,  belted  around  the  waist 
like  a  frock,  then  constituted  our  upper  garment  ;  moccasins 
had  supplanted  our  failing  boots  ;  and  the  remaining  essential 
portion  of  our  attire  consisted  of  an  extraordinary  article, 
manufactured  by  a  squaw  out  of  smoked  buckskin.  Our 
muleteer,  Delorier,  brought  up  the  rear  with  his  cart,  w^ad- 
ding  ankle-deep  in  the  mud,  alternately  puffing  at  his  pipe,  and 
ejaculating  in  his  prairie  patois  :  "  Sacre  enfant  de  garce  !  " 
as  one  of  the  mules  would  seem  to  recoil  before  some  abyss 
of  unusual  profundity.  The  cart  was  of  the  kind  that  one 
may  see  by  scores  around  the  market-place  in  Montreal,  and 
had  a  w^hite  covering  to  protect  the  articles  within.  These 
were  our  provisions  and  a  tent,  with  ammunition,  blankets, 
and  presents  for  the  Indians. 


THE  CALIFORNIA   AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  15 

We  were  in  all  four  men  with  eight  animals  ;  for  besides 
the  spare  horses  led  by  Shaw  and  myself,  an  additional  mule 
was  driven  along  with  us  as  a  reserve  in  case  of  accident. 

After  this  summing  up  of  our  forces,  it  may  not  be  amiss  to 
glance  at  the  characters  of  the  two  men  who  accompanied  us. 

Delorier  was  a  Canadian,  with  all  the  characteristics  of  the 
true  Jean  Baptiste.  Neither  fatigue,  exposure,  nor  hard 
labor  could  ever  impair  his  cheerfulness  and  gayety,  or  his 
obsequious  politeness  to  his  bourgeois ;  and  when  night  came 
he  would  sit  down  by  the  fire,  smoke  his  pipe,  and  tell  stories 
with  the  utmost  contentment.  In  fact  the  prairie  was  his  con- 
genial element.  Henry  Chatillon  was  of  a  different  stamp. 
When  we  were  at  St.  Louis,  several  of  the  gentlemen  of  the 
Fur  Company  had  kindly  offered  to  procure  for  us  a  hunter 
and  guide  suited  for  our  purposes,  and  on  coming  one  after- 
noon to  the  office,  w^e  found  there  a  tall  and  exceedingly  well 
dressed  man,  with  a  face  so  open  and  frank  that  it  attracted 
our  notice  at  once.  We  were  surprised  at  being  told  that  it 
was  he  who  wished  to  guide  us  to  the  mountains.  He  was 
born  in  a  little  French  town  near  St.  Louis,  and  from  the  age 
of  fifteen  j^ears  had  been  constantly  in  the  neighborhood  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  employed  for  the  most  part  by  the 
Company  to  supply  their  forts  with  buffalo  meat.  As  a 
hunter  he  had  but  one  rival  in  the  whole  region,  a  man  named 
Cimoneau,  with  whom,  to  the  honor  of  both  of  thcni,  he  was 
on  terms  of  the  closest  friendship.  He  had  arrived  at 
St.  Louis  the  day  before,  from  the  mountains,  where  he  had 
remained  for  four  years  ;  and  he  now  only  asked  to  go  and 
spend  a  day  with  his  mother  before  setting  out  on  another 
expedition.  His  age  was  about  thirty  ;  he  was  six  feet  high, 
and  very  powerfully  and  gracefully  molded.  The  prairies 
had  been  his  school  ;  lie  could  neither  read  nor  write,  but  he 
had  a  natural  refinement  and  delicacy  of  mind  such  as  is 
very  rarely  found,  even  in  women.  His  manly  face  was  a  per- 
fect mirror  of  uprightness,  simplicity,  and  kindness  of  heart  ; 
he  had,  moreover,  a  keen  perce])tion  of  character,  and  a  tact 
that  would  preserve  him  from  fiagrant  error  in  any  society. 
Henry  had  not  the  restless  energy  of  an  Anglo-American. 
He  was  content  to  take  things  as  he  found  them  ;  and  his 
chief  fault  arose  from  an  excess  of  easy  generosity,  impelling 
him  to  give  away  too  profuse!}^  ever  to  thrive  in  the  world. 
Yet  it  was  commonly  remarked  of  him,  that  whatever  he 
might  choose  to  do  with  what  bel<»nged  to  himself,  the  ])ro]>- 
erty  of  others  was  always  safe  in  his  hands.     His  bravery  was 


16  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

as  much  celebrated  in  the  mouutains  as  his  skill  in  hunting  ; 
but  it  is  characteristic  of  him  that  in  a  country  where  the 
rifle  is  the  chief  arbiter  between  man  and  man,  Henry  was 
very  seldom  involved  in  quarrels.  Once  or  twice,  indeed,  his 
quiet  good  nature  had  been  mistaken  and  presumed  upon, 
but  the  consequences  of  the  error  were  so  formidable  that  no 
one  was  ever  known  to  repeat  it.  No  better  evidence  of  the 
intrepidity  of  his  temper  could  be  wished  than-  tlie  common 
report  that  he  had  killed  more  than  thirty  grizzly  bears.  He 
was  a  proof  of  what  unaided  nature  will  sometimes  do.  I 
have  never,  in  the  city  or  in  the  wilderness,  met  a  better  man 
than  my  noble  and  true  hearted  friend,  Henry  Chatillon. 

We  were  soon  free  of  the  woods  and  bushes,  and  fairly 
upon  the  broad  prairie.  Now  and  then  a  Shawanoe  passed  us, 
riding  his  little  shaggy  pony  at  a  "  lope  "  ;  his  calico  shirt,  his 
gaudy  sash,  and  the  gay  liandkerchief  bound  around  his  snaky 
hair  fluttering  in  the  wind.  At  noon  we  stopped  to  rest  not 
far  from  &  little  creek  replete  with  frogs  and  young  turtles. 
There  had  been  an  Indian  encampment  at  the  place,  and  the 
framework  of  their  lodges  still  remained,  enabling  us  very 
easily  to  gain  a  shelter  from  the  sun,  by  merely  spreading  one 
or  two  blankets  over  them.  Thus  shaded,  we  sat  upon  our 
saddles,  and  Shaw  for  the  first  time  lighted  his  favorite  Indian 
pipe  ;  while  Delorier  was  squatted  over  a  hot  bed  of  coals, 
shading  his  eyes  with  one  hand,  and  holding  a  little  stick  in  the 
other,  with  which  he  regulated  the  hissing  contents  of  the  fry- 
ing pan.  The  horses  were  turned  to  feed  among  the  scattered 
bushes  of  a  low  oozy  meadow.  A  drows}^  springlike  sultri- 
ness pervaded  the  air,  and  the  voices  of  ten  thousand  young 
frogs  and  insects,  just  awakened  into  life,  rose  in  varied  chorus 
from  the  creek  and  the  meadows. 

Scarcely  were  we  seated  when  a  visitor  approached.  This 
was  an  old  Kansas  Indian  ;  a  man  of  distinction,  if  one  might 
judge  from  his  dress.  His  head  was  shaved  and  painted  red, 
and  from  the  tuft  of  hair  remaining  on  the  crown  dangled  sev- 
eral eagle's  feathers,  and  the  tails  of  two  or  three  rattlesnakes. 
His  cheeks,  too,  were  daubed  with  vermilion  ;  his  ears  were 
adorned  with  green  glass  pendants  ;  a  collar  of  grizzly  bears' 
claws  surrounded  his  neck,  and  several  large  necklaces  of 
wampura  hung  on  his  breast.  Having  shaken  us  by  the  hand 
with  a  cordial  grunt  of  salutation,  the  old  man,  dropping  his 
red  blanket  from  his  shoulders,  sat  down  cross-legged  on  the 
ground.  In  the  absence  of  liquor  we  offered  him  a  cup  of 
sweetened  water,  at  which  he  ejaculated  "  Good  !  "  and  was  be- 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  17 

Spinning  to  tell  us  liow  great  a  man  he  was,  and  liovv  many- 
Pawnees  be  had  killed,  when  suddenly  a  motley  concourse  ap- 
peared wading  across  the  creek  toward  us.  They  filed  past  in 
rapid  succession,  men,  women,  and  children  ;  some  were  on 
horseback,  some  on  foot,  but  all  were  alike  squalid  and 
wretched.  Old  squaws,  mounted  astride  of  shaggy,  meager 
little  ponies,  with  perhaps  one  or  two  snake-eyed  children 
seated  behind  them,  clinging  to  their  tattered  blankets  ;  tall 
lank  young  men  on  foot,  with  bows  and  arrows  in  their  hands  ; 
and  girls  whose  native  ugliness  not  all  the  charms  of  glass 
beads  and  scarlet  cloth  could  disguise  made  up  the  procession  ; 
although  here  and  there  was  a  man  who,  like  our  visitor, 
seemed  to  hold  some  rank  in  this  respectable  community. 
They  were  the  dregs  of  the  Kansas  nation,  who,  while  their 
betters  were  gone  to  hunt  the  buffalo,  had  left  the  village  on 
a  begging  expedition  to  Westport. 

When  this  ragamuffin  horde  had  passed,  we  caught  our 
horses,  saddled,  harnessed,  and  resumed  our  journey.  Fording 
the  creek,  the  low  roofs  of  a  number  of  rude  buildings  appeared, 
rising  from  a  cluster  of  groves  and  woods  on  the  left ;  and  rid- 
ing up  through  a  long  lane,  amid  a  profusion  of  wild  roses  and 
early  spring  flowers,  we  found  the  log-church  and  school- 
houses  belonging  to  the  Methodist  Shawanoe  Mission.  The 
Indians  were  on  the  point  of  gathering  to  a  religious  meeting. 
Some  scores  of  them,  tall  men  in  half-civilized  dress,  were 
seated  on  wooden  benches  under  the  trees  ;  while  their  horses 
were  tied  to  the  sheds  and  fences.  Their  chief,  Parks,  a 
remarkably  large  and  athletic  man,  was  just  arrived  from 
Westport,  where  he  owns  a  trading  establishment.  Beside 
this,  he  has  a  fine  farm  and  a  considerable  number  of  slaves. 
Indeed  the  Shawanoes  have  made  greater  progress  in  agricul- 
ture than  any  other  tribe  on  the  Missouri  frontier  ;  and  both 
in  appearance  and  in  character  form  a  marked  contrast  to  our 
late  acquaintance,  the  Kansas. 

A  few  hours'  ride  brought  us  to  tlie  banks  of  the  river 
Kansas.  Traversing  the  woods  that  lined  it,  and  plowing 
through  the  deep  sand,  we  encamped  not  far  from  the  bank, 
at  the  Lower  Delaware  crossing.  Our  tent  was  erected  for  the 
first  time  on  a  meadow  close  to  the  woods,  and  the  camp  prep- 
arations being  complete  we  began  to  think  of  supper.  An 
old  Delaware  Moman,  of  some  three  hundred  pounds'  weight, 
sat  in  the  porch  of  a  little  log-house  close  to  the  water,  and  a 
very  pretty  half-breed  girl  was  engaged,  under  her  superin- 
tendence, in  feeding  a  lar^e  flock  of  turkeys  that  were  flutter- 


18  THE  CALIFOBNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

ing  and  gobbling  about  the  door.  But  no  offers  of  money,  or 
even  of  tobacco,  could  induce  her  to  part  with  one  of  her 
favorites  ;  so  I  took  my  rifle,  to  see  if  the  woods  or  the  river 
could  furnish  us  anything.  A  multitude  of  quails  were  plain- 
tively whistling  in  the  woods  and  meadows  ;  but  nothing- 
appropriate  to  the  rifle  was  to  be  seen,  except  three  buzzards, 
seated  on  the  spectral  limbs  of  an  old  dead  sycamore,  that 
thrust  itself  out  over  the  river  from  the  dense  sunny  wall  of 
fresh  foliage.  Their  ugly  heads  were  drawn  down  between 
their  shoulders,  and  they  seemed  to  luxuriate  in  the  soft  sun- 
shine that  was  pouring  from  the  west.  As  they  oiiered  no 
epicurean  temptations,  I  refrained  from  disturbing  their  enjoy- 
ment ;  but  contented  myself  with  admiring  the  calm  beauty 
of  the  sunset,  for  the  river,  eddying  swiftly  in  deep  purple 
shadows  between  the  impending  woods,  formed  a  wild  but 
tranquillizing  scene. 

When  I  returned  to  the  camp  I  found  Shaw  and  an  old 
Indian  seated  on  the  ground  in  close  conference,  passing  the 
pipe  between  them.  The  old  man  was  explaining  that  he 
loved  the  whites,  and  had  an  especial  partiality  for  tobacco. 
Delorier  was  arranging  upon  the  ground  our  service  of  tin 
cups  and  plates  ;  and  as  other  viands  were  not  to  be  had,  he 
set  before  us  a  repast  of  biscuit  and  bacon,  and  a  large  pot  of 
coffee.  Unsheathing  our  knives,  we  attacked  it,  disposed  of  the 
greater  part,  and  tossed  the  residue  to  the  Indian.  Meanwhile 
our  horses,  now  hobbled  for  the  first  time,  stood  among  the 
trees,  with  their  fore-legs  tied  together,  in  great  disgust  and 
astonishment.  They  seemed  by  no  means  to  relish  this  fore- 
taste of  what  was  before  them.  Mine,  in  particular,  had  con- 
ceived a  mortal  aversion  to  the  prairie  life.  One  of  them, 
christened  Hendrick,  an  animal  whose  strength  and  hardihood 
were  his  only  merits,  and  who  yielded  to  nothing  but  the 
cogent  arguments  of  the  whip,  looked  toward  us  with  an 
indignant  countenance,  as  if  he  meditated  avenging  his  wrongs 
with  a  kick.  The  other,  Pontiac,  a  good  horse,  though  of 
plebeian  lineage,  stood  with  his  head  drooping  and  his  mane 
hanging  about  his  eyes,  with  the  grieved  and  sulky  air  of  a 
lubberly  boy  sent  off  to  school.  Poor  Pontiac  !  his  forebod- 
ings were  but  too  just  ;  for  when  I  last  heard  from  him,  he 
was  under  the  lash  of  an  Ogallalla  brave,  on  a  war  party 
against  the  Crows. 

As  it  grew  dark,  and  the  voices  of  the  whip-poor-wills  suc- 
ceeded the  whistle  of  the  quails,  we  removed  our  saddles  to  the 
tent,  to  serve  as  pillows,  spread  our  blankets  upon  the  ground, 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OTiEQON  TRAIL.  10 

and  prepared  to  bivouac  for  the  first  time  that  season.  Each 
man  selected  the  place  in  the  tent  which  he  was  to  occupy  for 
the  journe\'.  To  Delorier,  however,  was  assigned  the  cart, 
into  which  lie  could  creep  in  wet  weather,  and  find  a  much 
better  shelter  than  his  bourgeois  enjoyed  in  the  tent. 

The  river  Kansas  at  this  point  forms  the  boundary  line 
between  the  country  of  the  Shawanoes  and  that  of  the  Dela- 
wares.  We  crossed  it  on  the  following  day,  rafting  over  our 
horses  and  equipage  with  much  difficulty,  and  unlading  our 
cart  in  order  to  make  our  way  up  the  steep  ascent  on  the 
farther  bank.  It  was  a  Sunday  morning  ;  warm,  tranquil  and 
bright,  ;  and  a  perfect  stillness  reigned  over  the  rough  in- 
closures  and  neglected  fields  of  the  Delawares,  except  the 
ceaseless  hum  and  chirruping  of  myriads  of  insects.  Now 
and  then  an  Indian  rode  past  on  his  way  to  the  meeting 
house,  or  through  the  dilapidated  entrance  of  some  shattered 
log-house  an  old  woman  might  be  discerned,  enjoying  all  the 
luxury  of  idleness.  There  was  no  village  bell,  for  the  Dela- 
wares have  none  ;  and  yet  upon  that  forlorn  and  rude  settle- 
ment was  the  same  spirit  of  Sabbath  repose  and  tranquillity  as 
in  some  little  New  England  village  among  the  mountains  of 
New  Hampshire  or  the  Vermont  woods. 

Having  at  present  no  leisure  for  such  reflections,  we  pursued 
our  journey.  A  military  road  led  from  this  point  to  Fort 
Leavenworth,  and  for  many  miles  the  farms  and  cabins  of  the 
Delawares  were  scattered  at  short  intervals  on  either  hand. 
The  little  rude  structures  of  logs,  erected  usually  on  the 
borders  of  a  tract  of  woods,  made  a  picturesque  feature  in  the 
landscape.  But  the  scenery  needed  no  foreign  aid.  Nature 
had  done  enough  for  it  ;  and  the  alternation  of  rich  green 
prairies  and  groves  that  stood  in  clusters,  or  lined  the  banks 
of  the  numerous  little  streams,  had  all  the  softened  and 
polished  beauty  of  a  region  that  has  been  for  centuries  under 
the  hand  of  man.  At  that  early  season,  too,  it  was  in  the 
height  of  its  freshness  and  luxuriance.  The  woods  were 
flushed  with  the  red  buds  of  the  maple  ;  there  were  frequent 
flowering  shrubs  unknown  in  the  east  ;  and  the  green  swells 
of  the  prairie  were  thickly  studded  with  blossoms. 

Encamping  near  a  spring  by  the  side  of  a  hill,  we  resumed 
our  journey  in  the  morning,  and  early  in  the  afternoon  had 
arrived  within  a  few  miles  of  Fort  Leavenworth.  The  road 
crossed  a  stream  densely  bordered  with  trees,  and  running  in 
the  bottom  of  a  deep  woody  hollow.  We  were  about  to 
descend  into  it,  when  a  wild  and  confused  procession  appeared^ 


20  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

passing  through  the  water  below,  and  coming  up  the  steep 
ascent  toward  us.  We  stopped  to  let  them  pass.  They  were 
Delawares,  just  returned  from  a  hunting  expedition.  All, 
both  men  and  women,  were  mounted  on  horseback,  and  drove 
along  with  them  a  considerable  number  of  pack  mules,  laden 
with  the  furs  they  had  taken,  together  with  the  buffalo 
robes,  kettles,  and  other  articles  of  their  traveling  equipment, 
which,  as  well  as  their  clothing  and  their  weapons,  had  a  worn 
and  dingy  aspect,  as  if  they  had  seen  hard  service  of  late. 
At  the  rear  of  the  party  was  an  old  man,  who,  as  he  came  up, 
stopped  his  horse  to  speak  to  us.  He  rode  a  little  tough 
shaggy  pony,  with  mane  and  tail  well  knotted  with  burrs,  and 
a  rusty  Spanish  bit  in  its  mouth,  to  which,  by  way  of  reins, 
was  attached  a  string  of  raw  hide.  His  saddle,  robbed  prob- 
ably from  a  Mexican,  had  no  covering,  being  merely  a  tree  of 
the  Spanish  form,  with  a  piece  of  grizzly  bear's  skin  laid  over 
it,  a  pair  of  rude  wooden  stirrups  attached,  and  in  the  absence 
of  girth,  a  thong  of  hide  passing  around  the  horse's  bell3^ 
The  rider's  dark  features  and  keen  snaky  eye  were  unequivo- 
cally Indian.  He  wore  a  buckskin  frock,  which,  like  his 
fringed  leggings,  was  well  polished  and  blackened  by  grease 
and  long  service  :  and  an  old  handkerchief  was  tied  around 
his  head.  Resting  on  the  saddle  before  him  lay  his  rifle  ;  a 
weapon  in  the  use  of  which  the  Delawares  are  skillful,  though, 
from  its  weight,  the  distant  prairie  Indians  are  too  lazy  to 
carry  it. 

"  Who's  your  chief?"  he  immediately  inquired. 

Henry  Chatillon  pointed  to  us.  The  old  Delaware  fixed 
his  eyes  intently  upon  us  for  a  moment,  and  then  sententiously 
remarked  : 

"  No  good  !  Too  young  ! "  With  this  flattering  comment 
he  left  us,  and  rode  after  his  people. 

This  tribe,  the  Delawares,  once  the  peaceful  allies  of  Wil- 
liam Penn,  the  tributaries  of  the  conquering  Iroquois,  are 
now  the  most  adventurous  and  dreaded  warriors  upon  the 
prairies.  They  make  war  upon  remote  tribes,  the  very  names 
of  which  were  unknown  to  their  fathers  in  their  ancient  seats 
in  Pennsylvania  ;  and  they  push  these  new  quarrels  with  true 
Indian  rancor,  sending  out  their  little  war  parties  as  far  as 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  into  the  Mexican  territories.  Their 
neighbors  and  former  confederates,  the  Shawanoes,  who  are 
tolerable  farmers,  are  in  a  prosperous  condition  :  but  the  Dela- 
wares dwindle  every  year,  from  the  number  of  men  lost  in 
their  wq-rlike  expeditions. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREO  ON  TRAIL,  21 

Soon  after  leaving  this  party,  we  saw,  stretching  on  the 
right,  the  forests  that  follow  the  course  of  the  Missouri,  and 
the  deep  woody  channel  tlirough  which  at  this  point  it  runs. 
At  a  distance  in  front  were  the  white  barracks  of  Fort 
Leavenworth,  just  visible  through  the  trees  upon  an  eminence 
above  a  bend  of  the  river.  A  wide  green  meadow,  as  level  as 
a  lake,  lay  between  us  and  the  Missouri,  and  upon  this,  close 
to  a  line  of  trees  that  bordered  a  little  brook,  stood  the  tent 
of  the  captain  and  his  companions,  with  their  horses  feeding 
around  it  ;  but  they  themselves  were  invisible.  Wright,  their 
muleteer,  was  there,  seated  on  the  tongue  of  the  wagon,  re- 
pairing his  harness.  Boisverd  stood  cleaning  his  rifle  at  the 
door  of  the  tent,  and  Sorel  lounged  idly  about.  On  closer 
examination,  however,  we  discovered  the  captain's  brother, 
Jack,  sitting  in  the  tent,  at  his  old  occupation  of  splicing  trail- 
ropes.  He  welcomed  us  in  his  broad  Irish  brogue,  and  said 
that  his  brother  was  fishing  in  the  river,  and  R.  gone  to  the 
garrison.  They  returned  before  sunset.  Meanwhile  we  erected 
our  own  tent  not  far  off,  and  after  supper  a  council  was  held, 
in  which  it  was  resolved  to  remain  one  day  at  Fort  Leaven- 
worth, and  on  the  next  to  bid  a  final  adieu  to  the  frontier  : 
or  in  the  phraseology  of  the  region,  to  "jump  off."  Our  de- 
liberations were  conducted  by  the  ruddy  light  from  a  distant 
swell  of  the  prairie,  where  the  long  dry  grass  of  last  summer 
was  on  fire. 

CHAPTER  in. 

FORT  LEAVENWORTH. 

I've  wandered  wide  and  wandered  far. 

But  never  have  I  met, 
In  all  tliis  lovely  western  land, 

A  spot  more  lovely  yet. 

Bryant. 

On  the  next  morning  we  rode  to  Fort  Leavenworth.  Colo- 
nel, now  General  Kearny,  to  whom  I  had  had  the  honor  of  an 
introduction  when  at  St.  Louis,  was  just  arrived,  and  received 
us  at  his  quarters  with  the  high-bred  courtesy  habitual  to  him. 
Fort  Leavenworth  is  in  fact  no  fort,  being  without  defensive 
works,  except  two  block-houses.  No  rumors  of  war  had  as 
yet  disturbed  its  tranquillity.  In  the  square  grassy  area,  sur- 
rounded by  barracks  and  the  quarters  of  the  officers,  the  men 
were  passing  and  repassing,  or  lounging  among  the  trees ; 
although  not  many  weeks  afterward  it  presented  a  different 


^2  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

scene  ;  for  here  the  very  offscourings  of  the  frontier  were  con- 
gregated, to  be  marshaled  for  the  expedition  against  Santa  Fe. 

Passing  tlirough  the  garrison,  we  rode  toward  the  Kickapoo 
village,  five  or  six  miles  beyond.  The  path,  a  rather  dubious 
and  uncertain  one,  led  us  along  the  ridge  of  high  bluffs 
that  border  the  Missouri ;  and  by  looking  to  the  right  or  to 
the  left,  we  could  enjoy  a  strange  contrast  of  opposite  scenery. 
On  the  left  stretched  the  prairie,  rising  into  swells  and  undula- 
tions, thickly  sprinkled  with  groves,  or  gracefully  expanding 
into  wide  grassy  basins  of  miles  in  extent  ;  while  its  curva- 
tures, swelling  against  the  horizon,  were  often  surmounted  by 
lines  of  sunny  woods  ;  a  scene  to  which  the  freshness  of  the 
season  and  tlie  peculiar  mellowness  of  the  atmospliere  gave 
additional  softness.  Below  us,  on  the  right,  was  a  tract  of 
ragged  and  broken  woods.  We  could  look  down  on  the  sum- 
mits of  the  trees,  some  living  and  some  dead  ;  some  erect, 
others  leaning  at  every  angle,  and  others  still  piled  in  masses 
together  by  the  passage  of  a  hurricane.  Beyond  their  extreme 
verge,  the  turbid  waters  of  the  Missouri  were  discernible 
through  the  boughs,  rolling  powerfully  along  at  the  foot  of 
the  woody  declivities  on  its  farther  bank. 

The  path  soon  after  led  inland  ;  and  as  we  crossed  an  open 
meadow  we  saw  a  cluster  of  buildings  on  a  rising  ground 
before  us,  with  a  crowd  of  people  surrounding  them.  They 
were  the  storehouse,  cottage,  and  stables  of  the  Kickapoo 
trader's  establishment.  Just  at  that  moment,  as  it  chanced, 
he  was  beset  with  half  the  Indians  of  the  settlement.  They 
had  tied  their  wretched,  neglected  little  ponies  by  dozens  along 
the  fences  and  outhouses,  and  were  either  lounging  about  the 
place,  or  crowding  into  the  trading  house.  Here  were  faces 
of  various  colors ;  red,  green,  white,  and  black,  curiously 
intermingled  and  disposed  over  the  visage  in  a  variety  of 
patterns.  Calico  shirts^  red  and  blue  blankets,  brass  ear-rings, 
wampum  necklaces,  appeared  in  profusion.  The  trader  was 
a  blue-eyed,  open-faced  man,  who  neither  in  his  manners  nor 
his  appearance  betrayed  any  of  the  roughness  of  the  frontier  ; 
though  just  at  present  he  was  obliged  to  keep  a  lynx  eye  on 
his  suspicious  customers,  who,  men  and  women,  were  climbing 
on  his  counter,  and  seating  themselves  among  his  boxes  and 
bales. 

The  village  itself  was  not  far  off,  and  sufficiently  illustrated 
the  condition  of  its  unfortunate  and  self-abandoned  occupants. 
Fancy  to  yourself  a  little  swift  stream,  working  its  devious 
way  down  a  woody  valley  ;  sometimes  wholly  hidden  under 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  2.3 

logs  and  fallen  trees,  sometimes  issuing  forth  and  spreading 
into  a  broad,  clear  pool  ;  and  on  its  banks  in  little  nooks  cleared 
awa}''  among  the  trees,  miniature  log-houses  in  utter  ruin  and 
neglect.  A  labyrinth  of  narrow,  obstructed  paths  connected 
these  habitations  one  with  another.  Sometimes  we  met  a  stray 
calf,  a  pig  or  a  pony,  belonging  to  some  of  the  villagers,  who 
usually  lay  in  the  sun  in  front  of  their  dwellings,  and  looked 
on  us  with  cold,  suspicious  eyes  as  we  approached.  Farther 
on,  in  place  of  the  log-huts  of  the  Kickapoos,  we  found  the 
pukwi  lodges  of  their  neighbors,  the  Pottawattamies,  whose 
condition  seemed  no  better  than  theirs. 

Growing  tired  at  last,  and  exhausted  by  the  excessive  heat 
and  sultriness  of  the  day,  we  returned  to  our  friend,  the  trader. 
By  this  time  the  crowd  around  liim  had  dispersed,  and  left  him 
at  leisure.  Ho  invited  us  to  his  cottage,  a  little  white-and- 
green  building,  in  the  style  of  the  old  French  settlements  ;  and 
ushered  us  into  a  neat,  well-furnished  room.  The  blinds  were 
closed,  and  the  heat  and  glare  of  the  sun  excluded  ;  the  room 
was  as  cool  as  a  cavern.  It  was  neatly  carpeted  too,  and 
furnished  in  a  manner  that  we  hardly  expected  on  the  frontier. 
The  sofas,  chairs,  tables,  and  a  well-filled  bookcase  would  not 
have  disgraced  an  Eastern  city  ;  thougli  there  were  one  or  two 
little  tokens  that  indicated  the  rather  questionable  civilization 
of  the  region.  A  pistol,  loaded  and  capped,  lay  on  the  mantel- 
piece ;  and  through  the  glass  of  the  bookcase,  peej^ing  above 
the  works  of  John  Milton,  glittered  the  handle  of  a  very  mis- 
chievous-looking knife. 

Our  host  went  out,  and  returned  with  iced  water,  glasses, 
and  a  bottle  of  excellent  claret ;  a  refreshment  most  welcome 
in  the  extreme  heat  of  the  day  ;  and  soon  after  appeared  a 
merry,  laughing  woman,  who  must  have  been,  a  year  or  two 
before,  a  very  rich  and  luxuriant  specimen  of  Creole  beauty. 
She  came  to  say  tliat  lunch  was  ready  in  the  next  room.  Our 
hostess  evidently  lived  on  the  sunny  side  of  life,  and  troubled 
herself  with  none  of  its  cares.  She  sat  down  and  entertained 
us  while  we  were  at  table  with  anecdotes  of  fishing  parties, 
frolics,  and  the  officers  at  the  fort.  Taking  leave  at  length  of 
the  hospitable  trader  and  his  friend,  we  rode  back  to  the  gar- 
rison. 

Shaw  passed  on  to  the  camp,  while  I  remained  to  call  upon 
Colonel  Kearny.  I  found  him  still  at  table.  There  sat  our 
friend  the  captain,  in  the  same  remarkable  habiliments  in 
which  we  saw  him  at  Westport  ;  the  black  pipe,  however, 
being  for  the  present  laid  aside.     He  dangled  his  little  cap  in 


24  TEE  CALIFOBNIA  AND  OtlEGON  TRAIL. 

his  hand  and  talked  of  steeple  chases,  touching  occasionally 
upon  his  anticipated  exploits  in  buffalo-hunting.  There,  too, 
was  R.,  somewhat  more  elegantly  attired.  For  the  last  time 
we  tasted  the  luxuries  of  civilization,  and  drank  adieus  to  it  in 
wine  good  enough  to  make  us  almost  regret  the  leave-taking. 
Then,  mounting,  we  rode  together  to  the  camp,  where  every- 
thing was  in  readiness  for  departure  on  the  morrow. 

CHAPTER  IV. 


We  forded  the  river  and  clomb  the  high  hill, 
Never  our  steeds  for  a  day  stood  still  ; 
Whether  we  lay  in  the  cave  or  the  shed, 
Our  sleep  fell  soft  on  the  hardest  bed  ; 
Whether  we  couched  in  our  rough  capote. 
On  the  rougher  plank  of  our  gliding  boat, 
Or  stretched  on  the  sand,  or  our  saddles  spread 
As  a  pillow  beneath  the  resting  head, 

Fresh  we  woke  upon  the  morrow  ; 
All  our  thoughts  and  words  had  scope. 
We  had  health  and  we  had  hope, 

Toil  and  travel,  but  no  sorrow. 

Siege  of  Corinth. 

The  reader  need  not  be  told  that  John  Bull  never  leaves 
home  without  encumbering  himself  with  the  greatest  possible 
load  of  luggage.  Our  companions  were  no  exception  to  the 
rule.  They  had  a  wagon  drawn  by  six  mules  and  crammed 
with  provisions  for  six  months,  besides  ammunition  enough  for 
a  regiment  ;  spare  rifles  and  fowling-pieces,  ropes  and  harness  ; 
personal  baggage,  and  a  miscellaneous  assortment  of  articles, 
which  produced  infinite  embarrassment  on  the  journey.  They 
had  also  decorated  their  persons  with  telescopes  and  portable 
compasses,  and  carried  English  double-barreled  rifles  of  six- 
teen to  the  pound  caliber,  slung  to  their  saddles  in  dragoon 
fashion. 

By  sunrise  on  the  23d  of  May  we  had  breakfasted  ;  the 
tents  were  leveled,  the  animals  saddled  and  harnessed,  and 
all  was  prepared.  ^  Avance  done!  get  up!'  cried  Delorier 
from  his  seat  in  front  of  the  cart.  Wright,  our  friends' 
muleteer,  after  some  swearing  and  lashing,  got  his  insub- 
ordinate train  in  motion,  and  then  the  whole  party  filed  from 
the  ground.  Thus  we  bade  a  long  adieu  to  bed  and  board, 
and  the  principles  of  Blackstone's  Commentaries.  The  day 
was  a  most  auspicious  one  ;  and  yet  Shaw  and  I  felt  certain 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  25 

misgivings,  which  in  the  sequel  proved  but  too  well  founded. 
We  had  just  learned  that  though  R.  had  taken  it  upon  him 
to  adopt  this  course  without  consulting  us,  not  a  single  man 
in  the  party  was  acquainted  with  it  ;  and  tlie  absurdity  of  our 
friend's  liigh-handed  measure  very  soon  became  manifest. 
His  plan  was  to  strike  the  trail  of  several  companies  of 
dragoons,  who  last  summer  had  made  an  expedition  under 
Colonel  Kearny  to  Fort  Laramie,  and  by  this  means  to  reach 
the  grand  trail  of  the  Oregon  emigrants  up  the  Platte. 

We  rode  for  an  hour  or  two  w^hen  a  familiar  cluster  of 
buildings  appeared  on  a  little  hill.  "Hallo  !"  shouted  the 
Kickapoo  trader  from  over  his  fence,  "  where  are  you  going  ?" 
A  few  rather  emphatic  exclamations  might  have  been  heard 
among  us,  when  we  found  that  we  had  gone  miles  out  of  our 
way,  and  were  not  advanced  an  inch  toward  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. So  we  turned  in  the  direction  the  trader  indicated  ; 
and  with  the  sun  for  a  guide,  began  to  trace  a  "  bee  line  " 
across  the  prairies.  We  struggled  through  copses  and  lines 
of  wood,  we  waded  brooks  and  pools  of  water ;  we  traversed 
prairies  as  green  as  an  emerald,  expanding  before  us  for  mile 
after  mile  ;  wider  and  more  wild  than  the  wastes  Mazeppa 
rode  over  : 

Man  nor  brute, 
Nor  dint  of  hoof,  nor  print  of  foot, 
Lay  in  the  wild  luxuriant  soil ; 
No  sign  of  travel ;  none  of  toil  ; 
The  very  air  was  mute. 

Riding  in  advance,  we  passed  over  one  of  these  great 
plains  ;  we  looked  back  and  saw  the  line  of  scattered  horsemen 
stretching  for  a  mile  or  more  ;  and  far  in  the  rear  against  the 
horizon,  the  white  wagons  creeping  slowly  along.  "  Here  we 
are  at  last !  "  shouted  the  captain.  And  in  truth  we  had 
struck  upon  the  traces  of  a  large  bod}^  of  horse.  We  turned 
joyfull}'  and  followed  this  new  course,  with  tempers  some- 
what improved  ;  and  toward  sunset  encamped  on  a  high  swell 
of  the  prairie,  at  the  foot  of  which  a  lazy  stream  soaked  along 
through  clumps  of  rank  grass.  It  w^as  getting  dark.  We 
turned  the  horses  loose  to  feed.  "  Drive  down  the  tent- 
pickets  hard,"  said  Henry  Chatillon,  "  it  is  going  to  blow." 
We  did  so,  and  secured  the  tent  as  well  as  we  could  ;  for  the 
sky  had  changed  totally,  and  a  fresh  damp  smell  in  the  wind 
warned  us  that  a  stormy  night  was  likely  to  succeed  the  hot 
clear  day.  The  prairie  also  wore  a  new  aspect,  and  its  vast 
swells  had  grown  black  and  somber  under  the  shadow  of  the 


56  THE  GALtFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

clouds.  The  thunder  soon  began  to  growl  at  a  distance. 
Picketing  and  hobbling  the  horses  among  the  rich  grass  at 
the  foot  of  the  slope,  where  we  encamped,  we  gained  a  shelter 
just  as  the  rain  began  to  fall  ;  and  sat  at  the  opening  of  the 
tent,  watching  the  proceedings  of  the  captain.  In  defiance  of 
the  rain  he  was  stalking  among 'the  horses,  wrapped  in  an  old 
Scotch  plaid.  An  extreme  solicitude  tormented  him,  lest 
some  of  his  favorites  should  escape,  or  some  accident  should 
befall  them  ;  and  he  cast  an  anxious  eye  toward  three  wolves 
Avho  were  sneaking  along  over  the  dreary  surface  of  the  plain, 
as  if  he  dreaded  some  hostile  demonstration  on  their  part. 

On  tlie  next  morning  we  had  gone  but  a  mile  or  two,  when 
we  came  to  an  extensive  belt  of  woods,  through  the  midst  of 
which  ran  a  stream,  wide,  deep,  and  of  an  appearance  particu- 
larly muddy  and  treacherous.  Delorier  was  in  advance  witli 
his  cart  ;  lie  jerked  his  pipe  from  his  mouth,  lashed  his  mules, 
and  poured  forth  a  volleyof  Canadian  ejaculations.  In  plunged 
the  cart,  but  midway  it  stuck  fast.  Delorier  leaped  out  knee- 
deep  in  water,  and  by  dint  of  sacres  and  a  vigorous  application 
of  the  whip,  he  urged  the  mules  out  of  the  slough.  Then 
approached  the  long  team  and  heavy  wagon  of  our  friends  ; 
but  it  paused  on  the  brink. 

"  Now  my   advice  is "    began  the  captain,  who   had 

been  anxiously  contemplating  the  muddy  gulf. 

"  Drive  on  !  "  cried  R. 

But  Wright,  the  muleteer,  apparently  had  not  as  yet  decided 
the  point  in  his  own  mind  ;  and  he  sat  still  in  his  seat  on  one 
of  the  shaft-mules,  whistling  in  a  low  contemplative  strain  to 
himself. 

"  ]\[y  advice  is,"  resumed  the  captain,  "  that  we  unload  ;  for 
I'll  bet  any  man  five  pounds  that  if  we  try  to  go  through,  we 
shall  stick  fast." 

"  By  the  powers,  we  shall  stick  fast  !  "  echoed  Jack,  the 
captain's  brother,  shaking  his  large  head  with  an  air  of  firm 
conviction. 

"  Drive  on  !  drive  on  !  "  cried  R.  petulantly. 

"  Well,"  observed  the  captain,  turning  to  us  as  we  sat  look- 
ing on,  much  edified  by  this  by-play  among  our  confederates, 
"I  can  only  give  my  advice,  and  if  people  won't  be  reasonable, 
why,  they  won't  ;    that's  all !  ' 

Meanwhile  Wright  had  apparently  made  up  his  mind  ;  for 
he  suddenly  began  to  shout  forth  a  volley  of  oaths  and  curses, 
that,  compared  with  the  French  imprecations  of  Delorier, 
sounded  like  tlie  roaring  of  heavy  cannon  after  the  popping 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  27 

and  sputtering  of  a  bunch  of  Chinese  crackers.  At  the  same 
time  he  discharged  a  shower  of  blows  upon  his  mules,  who 
hastily  dived  into  the  mud  and  drew  the  wagon  lumbering 
after  them.  For  a  moment  the  issue  was  dubious.  Wright 
writhed  about  in  his  saddle,  and  swore  and  lashed  like  a  mad- 
man ;  but  who  can  count  on  a  team  of  half-broken  mules  ? 
At  the  most  critical  point,  wlien  all  should  have  been  harmon}^ 
and  combined  effort,  the  perverse  brutes  fell  into  lamentable 
disorder,  and  huddled  together  in  confusion  on  the  farther 
bank.  There  was  the  wagon  up  to  the  hub  in  mud,  and  vis- 
ibly settling  every  instant.  There  was  nothing  for  it  but  to 
unload  ;  then  to  dig  away  the  mud  from  before  the  wheels 
with  a  spade,  and  lay  a  causeway  of  bushes  and  branches. 
Tliis  agreeable  labor  accomplished,  the  wagon  at  length 
emerged  ;  bnt  if  I  mention  that  some  interruption  of  this  sort 
occurred  at  least  four  or  hve  times  a  day  for  a  fortnight,  the 
reader  will  understand  that  our  progress  toward  the  Platte 
was  not  without  its  obstacles. 

We  traveled  six  or  seven  miles  farther,  and  "  nooned  "  near 
a  brook.  On  the  point  of  resuming  our  journey,  when  the 
horses  were  all  driven  down  to  water,  m}^  homesick  charger 
Pontiac  made  a  sudden  leap  across,  and  set  off  at  a  round  trot 
for  the  settlements.  I  mounted  my  remaining  horse,  and 
started  in  pursuit.  Making  a  circuit,  I  headed  the  runaway, 
hoping  to  drive  him  back  to  camp  ;  but  he  instantly  broke  into 
a  gallop,  made  a  wide  tour  on  the  prairie,  and  got  past  me 
again.  I  tried  this  plan  repeated)}^,  with  the  same  result  ; 
Pontiac  was  evidently  disgusted  with  the  prairie  ;  so  I  aban- 
doned it,  and  tried  another,  trotting  along  gently  behind  him, 
in  hopes  that  I  might  quietly  get  near  enough  to  seize  the  trail- 
rope  which  was  fastened  to  his  neck,  and  dmgged  about  a 
dozen  feet  behind  him.  The  chase  grew  interesting.  For 
ujile  after  mile  I  followed  the  rascal,  with  the  utmost  care  not 
to  alarm  him,  and  gradually  got  nearer,  until  at  length  old 
Ilendrick's  nose  was  fairly  brushed  by  the  whisking  tail  of  the 
unsuspecting  Pontiac.  Without  drawing  rein,  I  slid  softly  to 
the  ground  ;  but  my  long  heavy  rifle  encumbered  mo,  and  the 
low  sound  it  made  in  striking  the  horn  of  the  saddle  startled 
him  ;  he  pricked  up  his  ears,  and  sprang  off  at  a  run.  "  My 
friend,"  thought  I,  remounting,  "  do  that  again,  and  I  will 
shoot  you  !  " 

Fort  Leavenworth  was  about  forty  miles  distant,  and  thither 
I  determined  to  follow  him.  I  made  up  my  mind  to  spend  a 
solitary  and  supperless  night,  and  then  set  out  again  in  the 


28  THB  GALIEOHNIA  AND  OREGON  TBAIL. 

morning.  One  hope,  however,  remained.  The  creek  where 
tlie  wagon  had  stuck  was  just  before  us  ;  Pontiac  might  be 
thirsty  with  his  run,  and  stop  there  to  drink.  I  kept  as  near 
to  him  as  possible,  taking  every  precaution  not  to  alarm  him 
again  ;  and  the  result  proved  as  I  had  hoped  :  for  he  walked 
deliberately  among  the  trees,  and  stooped  down  to  the  water. 
I  alighted,  dragged  old  Hendrick  through  the  mud,  and  with 
a  feeling  of  infinite  satisfaction  picked  up  the  slimy  trail-rope, 
and  twisted  it  three  times  round  my  hand.  "  Now  let  me  see 
you  get  away  again  !  "  I  thought,  as  I  remounted.  But  Pon- 
tiac was  exceedingly  reluctant  to  turn  back  ;  Hendrick,  too, 
who  had  evidently  flattered  himself  with  vain  hopes,  showed 
the  utmost  repugnance,  and  grumbled  in  a  manner  peculiar  to 
himself  at  being  compelled  to  face  about.  A  smart  cut  of  the 
whip  restored  his  cheerfulness  ;  and  dragging  the  recovered 
truant  behind,  I  set  out  in  search  of  the  camp.  An  hour  or 
two  elapsed,  when,  near  sunset,  I  saw  the  tents,  standing  on  a 
rich  swell  of  the  prairie,  beyond  a  line  of  woods,  while  the 
bands  of  horses  were  feeding  in  a  low  meadow  close  at  hand. 
There  sat  Jack  C,  cross-legged,  in  the  sun,  splicing  a  trail- 
rope,  and  the  rest  were  lying  on  the  grass,  smoking  and  telling 
stories.  That  night  we  enjoyed  a  serenade  from  the  wolves, 
more  lively  than  any  with  which  they  had  yet  favored  us  ;  and 
in  the  morning  one  of  the  musicians  appeared,  not  many  rods 
from  the  tents,  quietly  seated  among  the  horses,  looking  at  us 
with  a  pair  of  large  gray  eyes  ;  but  perceiving  a  rifle  leveled 
at  him,  he  leaped  up  and  made  off  in  hot  haste. 

I  pass  by  the  following  day  or  two  of  our  journey,  for 
nothing  occurred  worthy  of  record.  Should  anyone  of  my 
readers  ever  be  impelled  to  visit  the  prairies,  and  should  he 
clioose  the  route  of  the  Platte  (the  best,  perhaps,  that  can  be 
adopted),  I  can  assure  him  that  he  need  not  think  to  enter  at 
once  upon  the  paradise  of  his  imagination.  A  dreary  pre- 
liminary, protracted  crossing  of  the  threshold,  awaits  him 
before  he  finds  himself  fairly  upon  the  verge  of  the  "great 
American  desert  ; "  those  barren  wastes,  the  haunts  of  the 
buffalo  and  the  Indian,  where  the  very  shadow  of  civilization 
lies  a  hundred  leagues  behind  him.  The  intervening  country, 
the  wide  and  fertile  belt  that  extends  for  several  hundred  miles 
beyond  the  extreme  frontier,  will  probably  answer  tolerably 
well  to  his  preconceived  ideas  of  the  prairie  ;  for  this  it  is  from 
which  picturesque  tourists,  painters,  poets,  and  novelists,  who 
have  seldom  penetrated  farther,  have  derived  their  concep- 
tions of  the  whole  region.     If  he  has  a  painter's  eye,  he  may 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL.  29 

find  his  period  of  probation  not  wholly  void  of  interest.  Tlie 
scenery,  though  tame,  is  graceful  and  pleasing.  Here  are 
level  plains,  too  wide  for  the  eye  to  measure  ;  green  undula- 
tions, like  motionless  swells  of  the  ocean  ;  abundance  of 
streams,  followed  throucrh  all  their  windings  by  lines  of  woods 
and  scattered  groves.  But  let  him  be  as  enthusiastic  as  he 
may,  he  will  find  enough  to  damp  his  ardor.  His  wagons  will 
stick  in  the  mud  ;  his  horses  will  break  loose  ;  harness  will 
give  way,  and  axle-trees  prove  unsound.  His  bed  will  be  a 
soft  one,  consisting  often  of  black  mud,  of  the  richest  con- 
sistency. As  for  food,  he  must  content  himself  with  biscuit 
and  salt  provisions  ;  for  strange  as  it  may  seem,  this  tract  of 
country  produces  very  little  game.  As  he  advances,  indeed, 
he  will  see,  moldering  in  the  grass  by  his  path,  the  vast 
antlers  of  the  elk,  and  farther  on,  the  whitened  skulls  of  the 
buffalo,  once  swarming  over  this  now  deserted  region.  Per- 
haps, like  us,  he  may  journey  for  a  fortnight,  and  see  not  so 
much  as  the  hoof-print  of  a  deer  ;  in  the  .opring,  not  even  a 
prairie  hen  is  to  be  had. 

Yet,  to  compensate  him  for  this  unlooked-for  deficiency  of 
game  he  will  find  himself  beset  with  "  varmints"  innumerable. 
The  wolves  will  entertain  him  with  a  concerto  at  night,  and 
skulk  around  him  by  day,  just  beyond  rifle-shot ;  his  horse  will 
step  into  badger-holes  ;  from  every  marsh  and  mud  puddle  will 
arise  the  bellowing,  croaking,  and  trilling  of  legions  of  frogs, 
infinitely  various  in  color,  shape,  and  dimensions.  A  profusion 
of  snakes  will  glide  away  from  under  his  horse's  feet,  or  quietly 
visit  him  in  his  tent  at  night  ;  while  the  pertinacious  humming 
of  unnumbered  mosquitoes  will  banish  sleep  from  his  eyelids. 
When  thirsty  with  a  long  ride  in  the  scorching  sun  over  some 
boundless  reach  of  prairie,  he  comes  at  length  to  a  pool  of 
water,  and  alights  to  drink,  he  discovers  a  troop  of  young 
tadpoles  sporting  in  the  bottom  of  his  cup.  Add  to  this,  that 
all  the  morning  tlie  sun  beats  upon  him  with  a  sultry,  penetrat- 
ing heat,  and  that,  with  provoking  regularity,  at  about  four 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  a  thunderstorm  rises  and  drenches 
him  to  the  skin.  Such  being  the  charms  of  this  favored  region, 
the  reader  will  easily  conceive  the  extent  of  our  gratification 
at  learning  that  for  a  week  we  had  been  journeying  on  the 
wrong  track  !  How  this  agreeable  discovery  was  made  I  will 
presently  explain. 

One  day,  after  a  protracted  morning's  ride,  we  stopped  to 
rest  at  noon  upon  the  open  prairie.  No  trees  were  in  sight  ; 
but  close  at  hand,  a  little  dribbling  brook  was  twisting  from 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 


side  to  side  tbrough  a  liollow  ;  now  forming  holes  of  stagnant 
water,  and  now  gliding  over  the  mnd  in  a  scarcely  perceptible 
current,  among  a  growth  of  sickly  bushes,  and  great  clumps 
of  tall  rank  grass.  Tbe  day  was  excessively  hot  and  oppres- 
sive. The  horses  and  mules  were  rolling  on  the  prairie  to 
refresh  tliemselves,  or  feeding  among  tlie  bushes  in  the  hollow. 
AYe  had  dined  ;  and  Delorier,  puffing  at  his  pipe,  knelt  on  tlie 
grass,  scrubbing  our  service  of  tin  plate.  Shaw  lay  in  the 
shade,  under  the  cart,  to  rest  for  a  wliile,  before  tlie  word 
should  be  given  to  "catch  up."  Henry  Chatillon,  before  lying 
down,  Avas  looking  about  for  signs  of  snakes,  the  only  liVing 
things  that  he  feared,  and  uttering  various  ejaculations  of  dis- 
gust, at  finding  several  suspicious-looking  holes  close  to  the 
cart.  I  sat  leaning  against  the  wheel  in  a  scant}^  strip  of 
shade,  making  a  pair  of  hobbles  to  replace  those  which  my 
contumacious  steed  Pontiac  had  broken  the  night  before.  The 
camp  of  our  friends,  a  rod  or  two  distant,  presented  the  same 
scene  of  lazy  tranquillity. 

'^  Hallo  !  "  cried  Henry,  looking  up  from  his  inspection  of 
the  snake-holes,  "here  comes  the  old  captain  !  " 

The  captain  approached,  and  stood  for  a  moment  contem- 
plating us  in  silence. 

"  I  say,  Parkman,"  he  began,  "  look  at  Shaw  there,  asleep 
under  the  cart,  with  the  tar  dripping  off  the  hub  of  the  wheel 
on  his  shoulder  !  " 

At  this  Shaw  got  up,  with  his  eyes  half  opened,  and  feeling 
the  part  indicated,  he  found  his  hand  glued  fast  to  his  red 
flannel  shirt. 

"  He'll  look  well  when  he  gets  among  the  squaws,  won't 
he  ?  "  observed  the  captain,  with  a  grin. 

He  then  crawled  under  the  cart,  and  began  to  tell  stories, 
of  which  his  stock  was  inexhaustible.  Yet  every  moment  he 
would  glance  nervously  at  the  liorses.  At  last  he  jumped  up 
in  great  excitement.  "  See  thnt  horse  !  There — that  fellow 
just  walking  over  the  hill  !  By  Jove  !  he's  ofb  It's  your  big 
horse,  Shaw  ;  no  it  isn't,  it's  Jack's  \  Jack  !  Jack  !  hallo, 
Jack  !  "  Jack,  thus  invoked,  jumped  up  and  stared  vacantly 
at  us. 

"  Go  and  catch  your  horse,  if  you  don't  want  to  lose  him  !  " 
roared  the  captain. 

Jack  instantly  set  off  at  a  run  through  the  grass,  his  broad 
pantaloons  flapping  about  his  feet.  The  captain  gazed  anx- 
iously till  he  saw  that  the  horse  was  caught ;  then  he  sat 
down,  with  a  conntenanoo  of  thougfhtfulness  and  care. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  31 

"I  tell  you  what  it  is,"  he  said,  "  this  will  never  do  at  all. 
We  shall  lose  every  horse  in  the  band  some  day  or  other,  and 
then  a  pretty  plight  we  should  be  in  !  Now  I  am  convinced 
that  the  only  way  for  us  is  to  have  every  man  in  the  camp 
stand  horse-guard  in  rotation  whenever  we  stop.  Supposing 
a  hundred  Pawnees  should  jump  up  out  of  that  ravine,  all 
yelling  and  flapping  their  buffalo  robes,  in  the  way  they  do  ? 
VViiy,  in  two  minutes  not  a  hoof  would  be  in  sight."  We 
reminded  the  captain  that  a  hundred  Pawnees  would  prob- 
ably demolish  the  horse-guard,  if  he  were  to  resist  their 
depredations. 

"  At  any  rate,"  pursued  the  captain,  evading  the  point, 
"  our  whole  system  is  wrong  ;  Pm  convinced  of  it  ;  it  is 
totally  unmilitary.  Why,  the  way  we  travel,  strung  out  over 
the  prairie  for  a  mile,  an  enemy  might  attack  the  foremost 
men,  and  cut  them  off  before  the  rest  could  come  up." 

"  We  are  not  in  an  enemy's  country  yet,"  said  Shaw  ; 
"  when  we  are,  we'll  travel  together." 

"  Then,"  said  the  captain,  "  we  might  be  attacked  in  camp. 
We've  no  sentinels  ;  we  camp  in  disorder  ;  no  precautions  at 
all  to  guard  against  surprise.  My  own  convictions  are  that 
we  ought  to  camp  in  a  hollow  square,  with  the  fires  in  the 
center  ;  and  have  sentinels,  and  a  regular  password  appointed 
for  every  night.  Besides,  there  should  be  vedettes,  riding  in 
advance,  to  find  a  place  for  the  camp  and  give  warning  of  an 
enemy.  These  are  my  convictions.  I  don't  want  to  dictate 
to  any  man.  I  give  advice  to  the  best  of  my  judgment,  that's 
all ;  and  then  let  people  do  as  they  please." 

We  intimated  tiiat  perhaps  it  would  be  as  well  to  postpone 
such  burdensome  precautions  until  there  should  be  some 
actual  need  of  them  ;  but  he  shook  his  head  dubiously.  The 
captain's  sense  of  military  propriety  had  been  severely  shocked 
by  what  he  considered  the  irregular  proceedings  of  the  party  ; 
and  this  was  not  the  first  time  he  had  expressed  himself  upon 
the  subject,  ^ut  his  convictions  seldom  produced  an}^  practi- 
cal resiilts.  In  the  present  case,  he  contented  himself,  .as  usual, 
with  enlarging  on  the  importance  of  his  suggestions,  and 
wondering  that  they  were  not  adopted.  But  his  plan  of 
sending  out  vedettes  seemed  particularly  dear  to  him  ;  and 
as  no  one  else  was  disposed  to  second  his  views  on  this 
point,  he  took  it  into  his  head  to  ride  forward  that  afternoon, 
himself. 

"  Come,  Parkinan,"  said  he,  "  will  you  go  with  me  ?  " 

We  set  out  together,  and  rode  a  mile  or  two  in  advance. 


32  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

Tlie  captain,  in  the  course  of  twenty  years'  service  in  the 
British  army,  had  seen  something  of  life  ;  one  extensive  side 
of  it,  at  least,  he  had  enjoyed  the  best  opportunities  for  study- 
ing ;  and  being  naturall}^  a  pleasant  fellow,  he  was  a  very 
entertaining  companion.  He  cracked  jokes  and  told  stories  for 
an  hour  or  two  ;  until,  looking  back,  we  saw  the  prairie  behind 
us  stretching  away  to  the  horizon,  without  a  horseman  or  a 
wagon  in  sight. 

"  Now,"  said  the  captain,  "  I  think  the  vedettes  had  better 
stop  till  the  m;iin  body  comes  up." 

I  was  of  the  same  opinion.  There  was  a  thick  growth  of 
woods  just  before  us,  with  a  stream  running  through  them. 
Having  crossed  this,  we  found  on  the  other  side  a  fine  level 
meadow,  half  encircled  by  the  trees  ;  and  fastening  our  horses 
to  some  bushes,  we  sat  down  on  the  grass  ;  while,  with  an  old 
stump  of  a  tree  for  a  target,  I  began  to  display  tlie  superiority 
of  the  renowned  rifle  of  the  backwoods  over  the  foreign  inno- 
vation borne  by  the  captain.  At  length  voices  could  be  heard 
in  the  distance  behind  the  trees. 

"  There  they  come  !  "  said  the  captain  ;  "  let's  go  and  see 
how  they  get  through  the  creek." 

We  mounted  and  rode  to  the  bank  of  the  stream,  where  the 
trail  crossed  it.  It  ran  in  a  deep  hollow,  full  of  trees  ;  as  we 
looked  down,  we  saw  a  confused  crowd  of  horsemen  riding 
through  the  water  ;  and  among  the  dingy  habiliments  of  our 
party  glittered  the  uniforms  of  four  dragoons. 

Shaw  came  whipping  his  horse  up  the  bank,  in  advance  of 
the  rest,  with  a  somewhat  indignant  countenance.  The  first 
word  he  spoke  was  a  blessing  fervently  invoked  on  tlie  head 
of  R.,  who  was  riding,  with  a  crest-fallen  air,  in  the  rear. 
Thanks  to  the  ingenious  devices  of  this  gentleman,  we  had 
missed  the  track  entirely,  and  wandered,  not  toward  the  Platte, 
but  to  the  village  of  the  Iowa  Indians.  This  we  learned  from 
the  dragoons,  who  had  lately  deserted  from  Fort  Leavenworth. 
They  told  us  that  our  best  plan  now  was  to  keep  to  the  north- 
ward until  we  should  strike  the  trail  formed  by  several  parties 
of  Oregon  emigrants,  who  had  that  season  set  out  from  St. 
Joseph's  in  Missouri. 

In  extremely  bad  temper,  we  encamped  on  this  ill-starred 
spot ;  while  the  deserters,  whose  case  admitted  of  no 
delay,  rode  rapidly  forward.  On  the  day  following,  strik- 
ing the  St.  Joseph's  trail,  we  turned  our  horses'  heads 
toward  Fort  Laramie,  then  about  seven  hundred  miles  to 
the  westwax'd, 


THE  i'ALI FORMA  AMJ   OHBdOS   JliAJL.  JJ3 

CHAPTER  V. 

THE    "  BIG  BLUE." 

A  mail  so  various  that  he  seemed  to  be 
Not  one,  but  all  mankind's  epitome  ; 
Stitf  iu  opinions,  always  in  the  wrong. 
Was  everything  by  starts,  and  nothing  long  ; 
But,  in  the  space  of  one  revolving  moon, 
Was  gamester,  chemist,  tiddler,  and  buffoon. 

Dryden. 

The  great  medley  of  Oregon  and  California  emigrants,  at 
tlit'ir  camps  around  Independence,  bad  lieard  reports  that  sev- 
eral additional  parties  were  on  the  point  of  setting  out  from 
St.  Joseph's,  farther  to  tlie  northward.  The  prevailing  imi)res- 
sion  was  that  these  were  Mormons,  twenty-tliree  hundred  in 
number  ;  and  a  great  alarm  was  excited  in  consequence.  The 
people  of  Illinois  and  Missouri,  who  composed  by  far  the 
greater  part  of  the  emigrants,  have  never  been  on  the  best 
terms  with  the  "Latter  Day  Saints";  and  it  is  notorious 
throughout  the  country  how  mncli  blood  has  been  spilt  in  their 
feuds,  even  far  within  the  limits  of  tiie  settlements.  No  one 
could  predict  what  would  be  the  result,  when  large  armed 
bodies  of  these  fanatics  should  encounter  the  most  impetuous 
and  reckless  of  tiieir  old  enemies  on  the  broad  piairie,  far  be- 
yond the  reacli  of  law  or  military  force.  The  women  and 
children  at  Independence  raised  a  great  outcry  ;  the  men 
themselves  were  seriously  alarmed  ;  and,  as  I  learned,  they 
sent  to  Colonel  Kearnj^  requesting  an  escort  of  dragoons  as 
far  as  the  Platte.  This  was  refused  ;  and  as  the  sequel 
l)roved,  tiiere  was  no  occasion  for  it.  The  St.  Joseph's  emi- 
grants were  as  good  Christians  and  as  zealous  Mormon -haters 
as  the  rest  ;  and  the  very  few  families  of  the  "Saints"  wlio 
passed  out  this  season  by  the  route  of  the  Platte,  remained 
behind  until  the  great  tide  of  emigration  liad  gone  by  ;  stand- 
ing in  quite  as  much  awe  of  the  "  gentiles  "  as  tlie  latter  did  of 
tliem. 

We  were  now,  as  I  before  mentioned,  upon  this  St..  Joseph's 
trail.  It  was  evident,  by  tlie  traces,  tliat  large  j)art  cs  wimc  a 
few  days  in  advance  of  us  ;  an<l  as  we  too  sup])os(d  tlum  to  be 
Mormons,  we  had  some  apprehension  of  interru})tion. 

The  journey  was  somewhat  monotonous.  One  day  we 
rode  on  for  hours,  without  seeing  a  tree  or  a  bush  ;  before,  be- 
hind, and  on  either  side,  stretched  the  vast  expanse,  rolling  in 


.34  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

a  succession  of  graceful  swells,  covered  with  the  unbroken  car- 
pet of  fresh  green  grass.  Here  and  there  a  crow,  or  a  raven, 
or  a  turkey-buzzard,  relieved  the  uniformity. 

"  Wliat  shall  we  do  to-night  for  wood  and  water?"  we  be- 
gan to  ask  of  each  other  ;  for  the  sun  was  within  an  hour  of 
setting.  At  length  a  dark  green  speck  appeared,  far  off  on  the 
right ;  it  was  the  top  of  a  tree,  peering  over  a  swell  of  the 
prairie  ;  and  leaving  the  trail,  we  made  all  haste  toward  it. 
It  proved  to  be  the  vanguard  of  a  cluster  of  bushes  and  low 
trees,  that  surrounded  some  pools  of  water  in  an  extensive 
hollow  ;  so  we  encamped  on  the  rising  ground  near  it. 

Shaw  and  I  were  sitting  in  the  tent,  when  Delorier  thrust 
his  brown  face  and  old  felt  hat  into  the  opening,  and  dilating 
his  eyes  to  their  utmost  extent,  announced  supper.  There 
were  the  tin  cups  and  the  iron  spoons,  arranged  in  military  or- 
der on  the  grass,  and  the  coffee-pot  predominant  in  the  midst. 
The  meal  was  soon  dispatched  :  but  Henry  Chatillon  still  sat 
cross-legged,  dallying  with  the  remnant  of  his  coffee,  the  bev- 
erage in  universal  use  upon  the  prairie,  and  an  especial  favor- 
ite with  him.  He  preferred  it  in  its  virgin  flavor,  unimpaired 
by  sugar  or  cream  ;  and  on  the  present  occasion  it  met  his 
entire  approval,  being  exceedingly  strong,  or,  as  he  expressed 
it,    "right  black." 

It  was  a  rich  and  gorgeous  sunset — an  American  sunset  ; 
and  the  ruddy  glow  of  the  sky  was  reflected  from  some  exten- 
sive pools  of  water  among  the  shadowy  copses  in  the  meadow 
below. 

"  I  must  have  a  bath  to-night,"  said  Shaw.  "  How  is  it, 
Delorier  ?     Any  chance  for  a  swim  down  here  ?" 

"  Ah  !  I  cannot  tell ;  just  as  you  please,  monsieur,"  replied 
Delorier,  shrugging  his  shoulders,  perplexed  by  his  ignorance 
of  English,  and  extremely  anxious  to  conform  in  all  respects 
to  the  opinion  and  wishes  of  his  bourgeois. 

"Look  at  his  moccasin,"  said  I.  "  It  has  evidently  been 
lately  immersed  in  a  profound  abyss  of  black  mud." 

"  Come,"  said  Shaw  ;  "  at  any  rate  we  can  see  for  our- 
selves." 

We  set  out  together  ;  and  as  we  approached  the  bushes, 
which  were  at  some  distance,  we  found  the  ground  becoming 
rather  treacherous.  We  could  only  get  along  by  stepping 
upon  large  clumps  of  tall  rank  grass,  with  fathomless  gulfs 
between,  like  iTmumerable  little  quaking  islands  in  an  ocean 
of  mud,  where  a  false  step  would  have  involved  our  boots  in 
a  catastrophe  like  that  which  had  befallen  Delorier's  mocca- 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL.  35 

sins.  The  thing  looked  despeiate  ;  we  separated,  so  as  to 
search  in  different  directions,  Shaw  going  off  to  the  right, 
while  I  kept  straight  forward.  At  last  I  came  to  the  edge  of 
the  bushes  :  they  were  young  water-willows,  covered  with 
their  caterpillar-like  blossoms,  but  intervening  between  them 
and  the  last  grass  clump  was  a  black  and  deep  slough,  over 
which,  by  a  vigorous  exertion,  I  contrived  to  jump.  Then  I 
shouldered  my  way  through  the  willows,  tramping  them  down 
by  main  force,  till  I  came  to  a  wide  stream  of  water,  three 
inches  deep,  languidly  creeping  along  over  a  bottom  of  sleek 
mud.  My  arrival  produced  a  great  commotion.  A  huge 
green  bull-frog  uttered  an  indignant  croak,  and  jumped  off 
the  bank  with  a  loud  splash  :  his  webbed  feet  twinkled  above 
the  surface,  as  he  jerked  them  energetically  upward,  and  I 
could  see  him  ensconcing  himself  in  the  unresisting  slime  at 
the  bottom,  whence  several  large  air  bubbles  struggled  lazily 
to  the  top.  Some  little  spotted  frogs  instantly  followed  the 
patriarch's  example  ;  and  then  three  turtles,  not  larger  than 
a  dollar,  tumbled  themselves  off  a  broad  "  lily  pad,"  where 
they  had  been  reposing.  At  the  same  time  a  snake,  gayly 
striped  with  black  and  yellow,  glided  out  from  the  bank,  and 
writhed  across  to  the  other  side  ;  and  a  small  stagnant  pool 
into  which  my  foot  had  inadvertently  pushed  a  stone  was  in- 
stantly alive  with  a  congregation  of  black  tadpoles. 

"Any  chance  for  a  bath,  where  you  are  ?  "  called  out  Shaw, 
from  a  distance. 

The  answer  was  not  encouraging.  I  retreated  through  the 
willows,  and  rejoining  ray  companion,  we  proceeded  to  push 
our  researches  in  company.  Not  far  on  the  right,  a  rising 
ground,  covered  with  trees  and  bushes,  seemed  to  sink  down 
abruptly  to  the  water,  and  give  hope  of  better  success ;  so 
toward  this  we  directed  our  steps.  When  we  reached  the 
])lace  we  found  it  no  easy  matter  to  get  along  between  the 
liill  and  the  water,  impeded  as  we  were  by  a  growth  of  stiff, 
obstinate  young  birch  trees,  laced  together  by  grape-vines. 
In  the  twilight,  we  now  and  then,  to  support  ourselves, 
snatched  at  the  touch-me-not  stem  of  some  ancient  sweet- 
brier.  Shaw,  who  was  in  advance,  suddenly  uttered  a  some- 
what emphatic  monosyllable  ;  and  looking  up,  I  saw  him  with 
one  band  grasping  a  sapling,  and  one  foot  immersed  in  the 
water,  from  wliich  he  had  forgotten  to  withdraw  it,  his  whole 
attention  being  engaged  in  contemplating  the  movements  of 
a  water-snake,  about  five  feet  long,  curiously  checkered  with 
black  and  green,  who  was  deliberately  swimming  across  the 


36  THE  CALIFOBNm  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

pool.  There  being  no  stick  or  stone  at  hand  to  pelt  him  with, 
we  looked  at  him  for  a  time  in  silent  disgust ;  and  then 
pushed  forward.  Our  perseverance  was  at  last  rewarded  ;  for 
several  rods  farther  on,  we  emerged  upon  a  little  level  grassy 
nook  among  the  brushwood,  and  by  an  extraordinary^  dispen- 
sation of  fortune,  the  weeds  and  floating  sticks,  which  else- 
where covered  the  pool,  seemed  to  have  drawn  apart,  and  left 
a  few  yards  of  clear  water  just  in  front  of  this  favored  spot. 
We  sounded  it  with  a  stick  ;  it  was  four  feet  deep  ;  we 
lifted  a  specimen  in  our  closed  hands  ;  it  seemed  reasonably 
transparent,  so  we  decided  that  the  time  for  action  was 
arrived.  But  our  ablutions  were  suddenly  interrupted  by 
ten  thousand  punctures,  like  poisoned  needles,  and  the  hum- 
ming of  myriads  of  overgrown  mosquitoes,  rising  in  all  direc- 
tions from  their  native  mud  and  slime  and  swarming  to  the 
feast.     We  were  fain  to  beat  a  retreat  with  all  possible  s])eed. 

We  made  toward  the  tents,  much  refreshed  by  the  bath 
which  the  heat  of  the  w^eather,  joined  to  our  prejudices,  had 
rendered  ver}^  desirable. 

"  What's  tlie  matter  with  the  captain  ?  look  at  him  ! "  said 
Shaw.  The  captain  stood  alone  on  the  prairie,  swinging  his 
hat  violently  around  his  head,  and  lifting  first  one  foot  and  then 
the  other,  without  moving  from  tlie  spot.  First  he  looked  down 
to  the  ground  with  an  air  of  supreme  abhorrence  ;  then  he 
gazed  upward  with  a  perplexed  and  indignant  countenance,  as 
if  trying  to  trace  the  flight  of  an  unseen  enemy.  We  called 
to  know  what  was  the  matter;  but  he  replied  only  by  exe- 
crations directed  against  some  unknown  ol)ject.  We 
approached,  when  our  ears  w^ere  saluted  by  a  droning  sound, 
as  if  twenty  bee-hives  had  been  overturned  at  once.  The 
air  above  was  full  of  large  black  insects,  in  a  state  of  great 
commotion,  and  multitudes  were  flying  about  just  above  the 
tops  of  the  grass  blades. 

"Don't  be  afraid,"  called  the  captain,  observing  us  recoil. 
"  The  brutes  w^on't  sting." 

At  this  I  knocked  one  down  with  my  hat,  and  discovered 
him  to  be  no  other  than  a  "  dor-bug  "  ;  and  looking  closer,  we 
found  the  ground  thickly  perforated  with  their  holes. 

We  took  a  hasty  leave  of  this  flourishing  colony,  and  walk- 
ing up  the  rising  ground  to  the  tents,  found  Delorier's  fire  still 
glowing  brightly.  We  sat  down  around  it,  and  Shaw  began 
to  expatiate  on  the  admirable  facilities  for  bathing  that  we  had 
discovered,  and  recommended  the  captain  by  all  means  to  go 
down  there  before  breakfast  in  the  morning.     The  captain  was 


THE  CALlFOHmA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  37 

in  the  act  of  remarking  that  he  couldn't  have  believed  it  possi- 
ble, when  he  suddenly  interrupted  himself,  and  clapped  his 
hand  to  his  cheek,  exclaiming  that  "those  infernal  humbugs 
were  at  him  again."  In  fact,  we  began  to  hear  sounds 
as  if  bullets  were  humming  over  our  heads.  In  a  moment 
something  rapped  me  sharply  on  the  forehead,  then  upon  the 
neck,  and  immediately  I  felt  an  indefinite  number  of  sharp 
wiry  claws  in  active  motion,  as  if  their  owner  were  bent  on 
pushing  his  explorations  farther.  I  seized  him,  and  dropped 
liim  into  the  tire.  Our  party  speedily  broke  up,  and  we 
adjourned  to  our  respective  tents,  where,  closing  the  oj^ening 
fast,  we  hoped  to  be  exempt  from  invasion.  But  all  precau- 
tion was  fruitless.  The  dor-bugs  hummed  through  the  tent, 
and  marched  over  our  faces  until  da^dight  ;  when,  opening 
our  blankets,  we  found  several  dozen  clinging  there  with  the 
utmost  tenacity.  The  first  object  that  met  our  eyes  in  the 
morning  was  Delorier,  who  seemed  to  be  apostrophizing  his 
frying  pan,  which  he  held  by  the  handle  at  arm's  length.  It 
appeared  tliat  he  had  left  it  at  night  by  the  fire  ;  and  tlie  bot- 
tom was  now  covered  with  dor-bugs,  firmly  imbedded.  Mul- 
titudes beside,  curiously  parched  and  shriveled,  lay  scattered 
among  the  ashes. 

The  horses  and  mules  were  turned  loose  to  feed.  We  had 
just  taken  our  seats  at  breakfast,  or  rather  reclined  in  the 
classic  mode,  when  an  exclamation  from  Henry  Chatillon,  and 
a  shout  of  alarm  from  the  captain,  gave  warning  of  some 
casualty,  and  looking  up,  we  saw  the  whole  band  of  animals, 
twenty-three  in  number,  filing  off  for  the  settlements,  tlie 
incorrigible  Pontiac  at  their  head,  jumping  along  with  hob- 
bled feet,  at  a  gait  much  more  rapid  tlian  graceful.  Throe 
or  four  of  us  ran  to  cut  them  off,  dashing  as  best  we  miglit 
through  the  tall  grass,  which  was  glittering  with  myriads  of 
dew-drops.  After  a  race  of  a  mile  or  more,  Shaw  caught  a 
horse.  Tying  the  trail-rope  by  way  of  bridle  round  the 
animal's  jaw,  and  leaping  upon  his  back,  he  got  in  advance  of 
the  remaining  fugitives,  while  we,  soon  bringing  them 
together,  drove  them  in  a  crowd  up  to  the  tents,  where  each 
man  caught  and  saddled  his  own.  Then  were  heard  lamen- 
tations and  curses  ;  for  half  the  horses  had  broke  their  hob- 
bles, and  many  were  seriously  galled  by  attempting  to  run  in 
fetters. 

It  was  late  that  morning  before  we  were  on  the  march  ; 
and  early  in  the  afternoon  we  were  compelled  to  encamp,  for 
a  thunder-gust  came  up  and  suddenly  enveloped  us  in  whirl- 


38  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

ing  sheets  of  rain.  With  much  ado,  we  pitched  our  tents 
amid  the  tempest,  and  all  niglit  long  the  thunder  bellowed 
and  growled  over  our  heads.  In  the  morning,  light  peaceful 
showers  succeeded  the  cataracts  of  rain,  that  had  been  drench- 
ing us  through  the  canvas  of  our  tents.  About  noon,  when 
there  were  some  treacherous  indications  of  fair  weather,  we 
got  in  motion  again. 

Not  a  breath  of  air  stirred  over  the  free  and  open  prairie  : 
the  clouds  were  like  light  piles  of  cotton  ;  and  where  the  blue 
sky  was  visible,  it  wore  a  hazy  and  languid  aspect.  The  sun 
beat  down  upon  us  with  a  sultry  penetrating  heat  almost 
insupportable,  and  as  our  party  crept  slowly  aloTig  over  the 
interminable  level,  the  horses  hung  their  heads  as  they  waded 
fetlock  deep  through  the  mud,  and  the  men  slouched  into  the 
easiest  position  upon  the  saddle.  At  last,  toward  evening, 
the  old  familiar  black  heads  of  thunder-clouds  rose  fast  above 
the  horizon,  and  the  same  deep  muttering  of  distant  thunder 
that  had  become  the  ordinary  accompaniment  of  our  after- 
noon's journey  began  to  roll  hoarsely  over  the  prairie.  Only 
a  few  minutes  elapsed  before  the  whole  sky  was  densely 
shrouded,  and  the  prairie  and  some  clusters  of  woods  in  front 
assumed  a  purple  hue  beneath  the  inky  shadows.  Suddenly 
from  the  densest  fold  of  the  cloud  the  flash  leaped  out,  quiver- 
ing again  and  again  down  to  the  edge  of  the  ])rairie  ;  and  at 
the  same  instant  came  the  sharp  burst  and  the  long  rolling 
peal  of  the  thunder.  A  cool  wind,  filled  with  the  smell  of 
rain,  just  then  overtook  us,  leveling  the  tall  grass  by  the  side 
of  the  path. 

"  Come  on  ;  we  must  ride  for  it !  "  shoutied  Shaw,  rushing 
past  at  full  speed,  his  led  horse  snorting  at  his  side.  The 
whole  party  broke  into  full  gallop,  and  made  for  the  trees  in 
front.  Passing  these,  we  found  beyond  them  a  meadow 
which  they  half  inclosed.  We  rode  pell-mell  upon  the  ground, 
leaped  from  horseback,  tore  off  our  saddles  ;  and  in  a  moment 
each  man  was  kneeling  at  his  horses'  feet.  The  hobbles  were 
adjusted,  and  the  animals  turned  loose  ;  then,  as  the  wagons 
came  wheeling  rapidly  to  the  spot,  we  seized  upon  the  tent- 
poles,  and  just  as  the  storm  broke,  we  were  prepared  to  receive 
it.  It  came  upon  us  almost  with  the  darkness  of  night ;  the 
trees,  which  were  close  at  hand,  were  completely  shrouded  ])y 
the  roaring  torrents  of  rain. 

We  were  sitting  in  the  tent,  when  Delorier,  with  his  broad 
felt  hat  hanging  about  his  ears,  and  his  shoulders  glistening 
with  rain,  thrust  in  his  head. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL.  39 

"  Voiilez-vous  du  soiiper^  tout  de  suite  f  I  can  make  a  fire, 
sous  la  chareite—\  b'lieve  so — I  try." 

"Never  mind  supper,  man  ;  come  in  out  of  tlie  rain." 

Delorier  accordingly  crouched  in  the  entrance,  for  modesty 
would  not  permit  him  to  intrude  farther. 

Our  tent  was  none  of  the  best  defense  against  such  a  cata- 
ract. The  rain  could  not  enter  bodily,  but  it  beat  through 
tlie  canvas  in  a  fine  drizzle,  that  wetted  us  just  as  effectually. 
We  sat  upon  our  saddles  with  faces  of  the  utmost  surliness, 
while  the  water  dropped  from  the  vizors  of  our  caps,  and 
trickled  down  our  cheeks.  My  india-rubber  cloak  conducted 
twenty  little  rapid  streamlets  to  the  gi-ound  ;  and  Shaw's 
blanket  coat  was  saturated  like  a  sponge.  But  what  most 
concerned  us  was  the  sight  of  several  puddles  of  water 
rapidly  accumulating  ;  one  in  particular,  that  was  gathering 
around  the  tent-pole,  tlireatened  to  overspread  the  whole  area 
within  the  tent,  holding  forth  but  an  indifferent  promise  of  a 
comfortable  night's  rest.  Toward  sunset,  however,  the  storm 
ceased  as  suddenly  as  it  began.  A  bright  streak  of  clear  red 
sky  appeared  above  the  western  verge  of  the  prairie,  the 
horizontal  rays  of  the  sinking  sun  streamed  through  it,  and 
glittered  in  a  thousand  prismatic  colors  upon  the  dripping 
groves  and  the  prostrate  grass.  The  pools  in  the  tent  dwin- 
dled and  sunk  into  the  saturated  soil. 

But  all  our  hopes  were  delusive.  Scarcely  had  night  set 
in,  when  the  tumult  broke  forth  anew.  The  thunder  here  is 
not  like  the  tame  thunder  of  the  Atlantic  coast.  Bursting 
with  a  terrific  crash  directly  above  our  heads,  it  roared  over 
the  boundless  waste  of  prairie,  seeming  to  roll  around  the 
whole  circle  of  the  firmament  with  a  peculiar  and  awful  rever- 
beration. The  lightning  flashed  all  night,  playing  with  its 
livid  glare  upon  the  neighboring  trees,  revealing  the  vast 
expanse  of  the  plain,  and  then  leaving  us  shut  in  as  by  a 
palpable  wall  of  darkness. 

It  did  not  disturb  us  much.  Now  and  then  a  peal  awakened 
us,  and  made  us  conscious  of  the  electric  battle  that  was 
raging,  and  of  the  floods  that  dashed  upon  the  stanch  canvas 
over  our  heads.  We  lay  upon  india-rubber  cloths,  placed 
between  our  blankets  and  the  soil.  For  a  while  they  excluded 
the  water  to  admiration  ;  but  when  at  length  it  accumulated 
and  began  to  run  over  the  edges,  thej^  served  equally  well  to 
retain  it,  so  that  toward  the  end  of  the  night  we  were  uncon- 
sciously reposing  in  small  pools  of  rain. 

On  filially  awaking  in  the  morning  the  pros|)ect  was  not  a 


40  THE  C ALIFORM  A  AND  OBEGON  TRAIL. 

cheerful  one.  Tiie  rain  no  longer  poured  in  torrents  ;  but  it 
pattered  with  a  quiet  pertinacity  upon  the  strained  and  satu- 
rated canvas.  We  disengaged  ourselves  from  our  blankets, 
every  fiber  of  which  glistened  with  little  beadlike  drops  of 
water,  and  looked  out  in  the  vain  hope  of  discovering  some 
token  of  fair  weather.  The  clouds,  in  lead-colored  volumes, 
rested  upon  the  dismal  verge  of  the  prairie,  or  hung  sluggishly 
overhead,  while  the  earth  Avore  an  aspect  no  more  attractive 
than  the  heavens,  exhibiting  nothing  but  pools  of  water, 
grass  beaten  down,  and  mud  well  trampled  by  our  mules  and 
horses.  Our  companions'  tent,  with  an  air  of  forloru  and 
passive  misery,  and  their  wagons  in  like  manner,  drenched 
and  woebegone,  stood  not  far  off.  The  captain  was  just  re- 
turning from  his  morning's  inspection  of  the  horses.  He 
stalked  through  the  mist  and  rrjn,  with  his  plaid  around  his 
shoulders  ;  his  little  pipe,  dingy  as  an  antiquarian  relic,  pro- 
jecting from  beneath  his  mustache,  and  his  brother  Jack  at 
his  heels. 

"  Good-morning,  captain." 

"  Good-morning  to  your  honors,"  said  the  captain,  affect- 
ing the  Hibernian  accent  ;  but  at  that  instant,  as  he  stooped 
to  enter  the  tent,  he  tripped  upon  the  cords  at  the  entrance, 
and  pitched  forward  against  the  guns  which  were  strapped 
around  the  pole  in  the  center. 

"  You  are  nice  men,  you  are  !  "  said  he,  after  an  ejaculation 
not  necessaly  to  be  recorded,  "  to  set  a  man-trap  before  your 
door  every  morning  to  catch  your  visitors." 

Then  he  sat  down  upon  Henry  Chatillon's  saddle.  We 
tossed  a  piece  of  buffalo  robe  to  Jack,  who  was  looking  about 
in  some  embarrassment.  He  spread  it  on  the  ground,  and 
took  his  seat,  with  a  stolid  countenance,  at  his  brother's  side. 

"Exhilarating  weather,  ca])tain  !  " 

"Oh,  delightful,  delightful!"  replied  the  captain.  "I 
knew  it  would  be  so  ;  so  much  for  starting  yesterday  at 
noon  !  I  knew  how  it  would  turn  out  ;  and  I  said  so  at  the 
time." 

"  You  said  just  the  contrary  to  us.  We  were  in  no  hurry, 
and  only  moved  because  you  insisted  on  it." 

"  Gentlemen,"  said  the  captain,  taking  his  pipe  from  his 
mouth  with  an  air  of  extreme  gravity,  "  it  Avas  no  plan  of 
mine.  There's  a  man  among  us  who  is  determined  to  have 
everything  his  own  way.  You  may  express  your  opinion  ; 
but  don't  expect  him  to  listen.  You  may  be  as  reasonable  as 
you  like  ;  oh,  it  all  goes  for  nothing  !     That  man  is  resolved 


THE  GAUFORNIA  AM>   OREGON  TRAIL.  41 

to  rule  the  roast,  and  he'll  set  his  face  against  any  plan  that 
he  didn't  tJjiiik  of  himself." 

Tlie  captain  puffed  for  a  while  at  his  pipe,  as  if  meditating 
upon  his  grievances  ;  then  he  began  again  : 

"  For  twenty  years  I  have  been  in  the  British  army  ;  and 
in  all  that  time  I  never  had  half  so  much  dissension,  and 
quarreling,  and  nonsense,  as  since  I  have  been  on  this  cursed 
prairie.     He's  the  most  uncomfortable  man  I  ever  met." 

"  Yes,"  said  Jack  ;  "  and  don't  you  know,  Bill,  how  he 
drank  up  all  the  coffee  last  night,  and  put  the  rest  by  for 
himself  till  the  morning  !  " 

''  He  })retends  to  know  everything,"  resumed  the  captain  ; 
"  nobody  must  give  orders  but  he  !  It's,  oh  !  we  must  do 
this  ;  and,  oh  !  we  must  do  that  ;  and  the  tent  must  be 
pitciied  here,  and  the  horses  must  be  picketed  there  ;  for  no- 
body knows  as  well  as  he  does." 

We  were  a  little  surprised  at  this  disclosure  of  domestic 
disensions  among  our  allies,  for  though  we  knew  of  their 
existence,  we  were  not  aware  of  their  extent.  The  persecuted 
captain  seeming  wholly  at  a  loss  as  to  the  course  of  conduct 
that  he  should  pursue,  we  recommended  him  to  adopt  prom]»t 
and  energetic  measures  ;  but  all  his  military  experience  had 
failed  to  teach  him  the  indispensable  lesson  to  be  "hard," 
when  the  emergency  requires  it. 

"  For  twenty  years,"  he  repeated,  "  I  have  been  in  the 
British  army,  and  in  that  time  I  have  been  intimately 
acquainted  with  some  two  hundred  officers,  young  and  old, 
and  I  never  yet  quarreled  with  any  man.  Oh,  *  anything  for 
a  quiet  life  !  '  that's  my  maxim." 

We  intifnated  that  the  prairie  was  hardly  the  place  to  enjoy 
a  quiet  life,  but  that,  in  the  ]iresent  circumstances,  the  best 
thing  he  could  do  toward  securing  his  wished-for  tranquillitj', 
was  immediately  to  put  a  period  to  the  nuisance  that  dis- 
turbed it.  But  again  the  captain's  easy  good-nature  recoiled 
from  the  task.  Tlie  somewhat  vigorous  measures  necessary 
to  gain  the  desired  result  were  utterly  repugnant  to  him  ;  he 
preferred  to  pocket  his  grievances,  still  letaining  the  privilege 
of  grumbling  about  them.  "  Oh,  anything  for  a  quiet  lite  !" 
he  said  again,  circling  back  to  his  favorite  maxim. 

But  to  glance  at  the  previous  history  of  our  transatlantic 
confederates.  The  captain  hnd  sold  his  commission,  and  was 
living  in  bachelor  ease  and  dignity  in  his  paternal  halls,  near 
Dublin.  He  hunted,  fished,  rode  steeple  chases,  ran  races, 
and  talked  of  his  former  exploits.     He   was  surrounded  with 


42  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

the  tropliies  of  his  rod  and  gun  ;  the  walls  were  plentifully 
garnished,  he  told  us,  witli  moose-horns  and  deer-horns,  bear- 
skins, and  fox-tails  ;  for  the  captain's  double-barreled  rifle 
had  seen  service  in  Canada  and  Jamaica  ;  he  had  killed  salmon 
in  Nova  Scotia,  and  trout,  by  his  own  account,  in  all  the 
streams  of  the  three  kingdoms.  But  in  an  evil  hour  a  seduc- 
tive stranger  came  from  London  ;  no  less  a  person  than  E,., 
who,  among  other  multitudinous  wanderings,  had  once  been 
upon  the  western  prairies,  and  naturally  enough  was  anxious 
to  visit  them  again.  The  caj)tain's  imagination  was  inflamed 
by  the  pictures  of  a  hunter's  paradise  that  his  guest  held  forth  ; 
he  conceived  an  ambition  to  add  to  his  other  trophies  the 
horns  of  a  buffalo,  and  the  claws  of  a  grizzly  bear  ;  so  he  and 
R.  struck  a  league  to  travel  in  compan3^  Jack  followed  his, 
brother,  as  a  matter  of  course.  Two  weeks  on  board  the 
Atlantic  steamer  brought  them  to  Boston  ;  in  two  weeks 
more  of  hard  traveling  they  reached  St.  Louis,  from  which  a 
ride  of  six  days  carried  them  to  the  frontier  ;  and  here  we 
found  them,  in  the  full  tide  of  preparation  for  their  journey. 

We  had  been  throughout  on  terms  of  intimacy  with  the 
captain,  but  R.,  tlie  motive  power  of  our  companions'  branch 
of  the  expedition,  was  scarcely  known  to  us.  His  voice, 
indeed,  might  be  heard  incessantly  ;  but  at  camp  he  remained 
chiefly  within  the  tent,  and  on  the  road  he  either  rode  by 
himself,  or  else  remained  in  close  conversation  with  liis  friend 
Wright,  the  muleteer.  As  the  captain  left  the  tent  that  morn- 
ing, I  observed  R.  standing  b}^  the  fire,  and  having  nothing 
else  to  do,  I  determined  to  ascertain,  if  possible,  what  man- 
ner of  man  he  was.  He  had  a  book  under  his  arm,  but  just 
at  present  he  was  engrossed  in  actively  superintending  the 
operations  of  Sorel,  the  hunter,  who  was  cooking  some  corn- 
bread  over  the  coals  for  breakfast.  R.  was  a  well-formed  and 
ratlier  good-looking  man,  some  thirty  years  old  ;  considerabl}^ 
j^ounger  than  the  captain.  He  wore  a  beard  and  mustache  of 
the  oakum  complexion,  and  his  attire  was  altogether  more 
elegant  than  one  ordinarily  sees  on  the  prairie.  He  wore  his 
cap  on  one  side  of  his  head  ;  his  checked  shirt,  open  in  front, 
was  in  very  neat  order,  considering  the  circumstances,  and  his 
blue  pantaloons,  of  the  John  Bull  cut,  might  once  have  figured 
in  Bond  Street. 

"Turn  over  that  cake,  man  !  turn  it  over,  quick  !  Don't 
you  see  it  burning?  " 

"It  aint  half  done,"  growled  Sorel,  in  the  amiable  tone  of 
a  whipped  bull-dog. 


THE  CALIFOUmA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  43 

"  It  is.     Turn  it  over,  I  tell  you  !  " 

Sorel,  a  strong,  sullen-looking  Canadian,  who,  from  having 
spent  his  life  among  the  wildest  and  most  remote  of  the  Indian 
tribes,  had  imbibed  much  of  their  dark,  vindictive  spirit,  looked 
ferociously  up,  as  if  he  longed  to  leap  upon  his  bourgeois  and 
throttle  him  ;  but  he  obeyed  the  order,  coming  from  so  ex- 
perienced an  artist. 

"  It  was  a  good  idea  of  yours,"  said  I,  seating  myself  on  the 
tongue  of  a  wagon,  "to  bring  Indian  meal  with  you." 

"  Yes,  yes,"  said  R.,  "  it's  good  bread  for  the  prairie — good 
bread  for  the  prairie.     I  tell  you  that's  burning  again." 

Here  he  stooped  down,  and  unsheathing  the  silver-mounted 
hunting-knife  in  liis  belt,  began  to  perform  the  part  of  cook 
himself  ;  at  the  same  time  requesting  me  to  hold  for  a  moment 
tlie  book  under  his  arm,  which  interfered  with  the  exercise  of 
these  important  functions.  I  opened  it ;  it  was  "  Macaulay's 
Lays  ;  "  and  I  made  some  remark,  expressing  my  admiration  of 
the  work. 

"  Yes,  yes  ;  a  pretty  good  thing.  Macaulay  can  do  better 
than  that,  though.  I  know  him  very  well.  I  have  traveled 
with  him.  Where  was  it  we  first  met — at  Damascus?  No, 
no  ;  it  was  in  Italy." 

"  So,"  said  I,  "  you  have  been  over  the  same  ground  with 
your  countryman,  the  author  of  *  Eothen  '  ?  There  has  been 
some  discussion  in  America  as  to  who  he  is.  I  have  heard 
Milne's  name  mentioned." 

"  Milne's?  Oh,  no,  no,  no  ;  not  at  all.  It  was  Kinglake  ; 
Kinglake's  the  ma!i.  I  know  him  very  well  ;  that  is,  I  have 
seen  him." 

Here  Jack  C,  who  stood  by,  interposed  a  remark  (a  thing 
not  common  with  him),  observing  that  lie  thought  the  weather 
would  become  fair  before  twelve  o'clock. 

"  It's  going  to  rain  all  day,"  said  R.,  "and  clear  up  in  the 
middle  of  the  night." 

Just  then  the  clouds  began  to  dissipate  in  a  very  unequivo- 
cal manner  ;  but  Jack,  not  caring  to  defend  his  point  against 
so  authoritative  a  declaration,  walked  away  whistling,  and  we 
resumed  our  conversation. 

"  Borrow,  the  author  of  *  The  Bible  in  Spain,'  I  presume 
you  know  him,  too?  " 

"  Oh,  certainly  ;  I  know  all  those  men.  By  the  way,  they 
told  me  that  one  of  your  American  writers.  Judge  Story,  had 
died  lately.  I  edited  some  of  his  works  in  London  ;  not  with- 
out faults,  though." 


44  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

Here  followed  an  erudite  commentary  on  certain  points  of 
law,  in  which  he  particularly  animadverted  on  the  errors  into 
which  he  considered  that  the  judge  had  been  betrayed.  At 
length,  having  touched  successively  on  an  infinite  variety  of 
topics,  I  found  that  I  had  tlie  happiness  of  discovering  a  man 
equally  competent  to  enlighten  me  upon  them  all,  equally  an 
authority  on  matters  of  science  or  literature,  philosophy  or 
fashion.  The  part  I  bore  in  the  conversation  was  b}'  no  means 
a  prominent  one  ;  it  was  only  necessary  to  set  him  going,  and 
when  he  had  run  long  enough  upon  one  topic,  to  divert  him 
to  another  and  lead  him  on  to  pour  out  his  heaps  of  treasure 
in  succession. 

"  What  has  that  fellow  been  saying  to  you  ?  "  said  Shaw,  as 
I  returned  to  the  tent.  "  I  have  heard  nothing  but  his  talking 
for  the  last  half-hour." 

R.  had  none  of  the  peculiar  traits  of  the  ordinary  "British 
snob  ";  his  absurdities  were  all  his  own,  belonging  to  no  par- 
ticular nation  or  clime.  He  was  possessed  with  an  active 
devil  that  had  driven  him  over  land  and  sea,  to  no  great  purpose, 
as  it  seemed ;  for  although  he  had  the  usual  complement  of 
eyes  and  ears,  the  avenues  between  these  organs  and  his  brain 
appeared  remarkably  narrow  and  untrodden.  His  energy 
was  much  more  conspicuous  than  his  wisdom  ;  but  his  predom- 
inant characteristic  was  a  magnanimous  ambition  to  exercise 
on  all  occasions  an  awful  rule  and  supremacy,  and  this  propen- 
sity equally  displayed  itself,  as  the  reader  will  have  observed, 
whether  the  matter  in  question  was  the  baking  of  a  hoe-cake  or 
a  point  of  international  law.  When  such  diverse  elements 
as  he  and  the  easy-tempered  captain  came  in  contact,  no  wonder 
some  commotion  ensued  ;  R.  rode  rough-shod,  from  morning 
till  night,  over  his  military  ally. 

At  noon  tlie  sky  was  clear  and  we  set  out,  trailing  through 
mud  and  slime  six  inches  deep.  That  night  we  were  spared 
the  customary  infliction  of  the  shower  bath. 

On  tlie  next  afternoon  we  were  moving  slowly  along,  not 
far  from  a  patch  of  woods  which  lay  on  the  right.  Jack  C. 
rode  a  little  in  advance  ; 

The  livelong  day  he  had  not  spoke  ; 

when  suddenly  he  faced  about,  pointed  to  the  woods,  and 
roared  out  to  his  brother  : 

"O  Bill!  here's  a  cow  !" 

The  captain  instantly  galloped  forward,  and  he  and  Jack 
made  a  vain  attempt  to  capture  the  prize  ;  but  the  cow,  with  a 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  45 

well-grounded  distrust  of  their  intentions,  took  refuge  anaong 
the  trees.  R.  joined  them,  and  they  soon  drove  her  out.  We 
watched  their  evolutions  as  they  galloped  around  her,  trying 
in  vain  to  noose  her  with  their  trail-ropes,  which  they  had  con- 
verted into  lariettes  for  the  occasion.  At  length  they  resorted 
to  milder  measures,  and  the  cow  was  driven  along  with  the 
party.  Soon  after  the  usual  thunderstorm  came  up,  the  wind 
blowing  with  such  fury  that  the  streams  of  rain  flew  almost 
liorizontally  along  the  prairie,  roaring  like  a  cataract.  The 
horses  turned  tail  to  the  storm,  and  stood  hanging  their  heads, 
bearing  the  infliction  with  an  air  of  meekness  and  resignation  ; 
while  we  drew  our  heads  between  our  shoulders,  and  crouched 
forward,  so  as  to  make  our  backs  serve  as  a  ])enthouse  for  the 
rest  of  our  persons.  Meanwhile  the  cow,  taking  advantage  of 
the  tumult,  ran  off,  to  the  great  discomfiture  of  the  captain, 
who  seemed  to  consider  her  as  his  own  especial  prize,  since  she 
liad  been  discovered  by  Jack.  In  defiance  of  the  storm,  he 
pulled  his  cap  tight  over  his  brows,  jerked  a  huge  buffalo 
))istol  from  his  holster,  and  set  out  at  full  speed  after  her. 
This  was  the  last  we  saw  of  them  for  some  time,  the  mist  and 
rain  making  an  impenetrable  veil ;  but  at  length  we  heard  the 
captain's  shout,  and  saw  him  Rooming  through  the  tempest, 
the  picture  of  a  Hibernian  cavalier,  with  his  cocked  pistol  held 
aloft  for  safety's  sake,  and  a  countenance  of  anxiety  and 
excitement.  The  cow  trotted  before  him,  but  exhibited  evi- 
dent signs  of  an  intention  to  run  off  again,  and  the  captahi  was 
roaring  to  us  to  head  her.  But  the  rain  had  got  in  behind 
our  coat  collars,  and  was  traveling  over  our  necks  in  numerous 
little  streamlets,  and  being  afraid  to  move  our  heads,  for  fear 
of  admitting  more,  we  sat  stiff  and  immovable,  looking  at  the 
captain  askance,  and  laugliing  at  his  frantic  movements.  At 
last  the  cow  made  a  sudden  plunge  and  ran  off  ;  the  captain 
grasped  his  pistol  firmly,  s|)urred  his  horse,  and  galloped  after, 
with  evident  designs  of  mischief.  In  a  moment  we  lieard  the 
faint  report,  deadened  by  the  rain,  and  then  the  conqueror  and 
his  victim  reappeared,  the  latter  shot  through  the  body,  and 
quite  helpless.  Not  long  after  the  storm  moderated,  and  we 
advanced  again.  The  cow  walked  painfulI}'^  along  under  the 
charge  of  Jack,  to  wliom  the  captain  had  committed  her,  while 
he  himself  rode  forward  in  his  old  capacity  of  vedette.  We 
were  approaching  a  long  line  of  trees,  that  followed  a  stream 
stretching  across  our  path,  far  in  front,  when  we  beheld  the 
vedette  galloping  toward  us,  apparently  much  excited,  but 
with  a  broad  grin  on  his  face. 


46  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

"  Let  that  cow  drop  behind  !  "  he  shouted  to  us  ;  *'  here's 
her  owners  ! " 

And  in  fact,  as  we  approached  tlie  line  of  trees,  a  large 
white  object,  like  a  tent,  was  visible  behind  them.  On 
approaching,  however,  we  found,  instead  of  the  expected 
Mormon  camp,  nothing  but  the  lonely  prairie,  and  a  large 
white  rock  standing  by  the  path.  The  cow  therefore  re- 
sumed her  place  in  our  procession.  She  walked  on  until  we 
encamped,  when  R.,  firmly  approaching  with  his  enormous 
English  doubled-barreled  rifle,  calmly  and  deliberately  took 
aim  at  her  heart,  and  discharged  into  it  first  one  bullet  and 
then  the  other.  She  was  then  butchered  on  the  most  approved 
principles  of  woodcraft,  and  furnished  a  very  welcome  item 
to  our  somewhat  limited  bill  of  fare. 

In  a  day  or  two  more  we  reached  the  river  called  the  "  Big 
Blue."  By  titles  equally  elegant,  almost  all  the  streams  of 
this  region  are  designated.  We  had  struggled  through  ditches 
and  little  brooks  all  that  morning  ;  but  on  traversing  the 
dense  woods  that  lined  the  banks  of  the  Blue,  we  found  that 
more  formidable  difficulties  awaited  us,  for  the  stream,  swollen 
by  the  rains,  was  wide,  deep,  and  rapid. 

No  sooner  were  we  on  the  spot  than  R.  had  flung  off  his 
clothes,  and  was  swimming  across,  or  splashing  through  the 
shallows,  with  the  end  of  a  rope  between  his  teeth.  We  all 
looked  on  in  admiration,  wondering  what  might  be  the  design 
of  this  energetic  preparation  ;  but  soon  we  heard  him  shout- 
ing :  "  Give  that  rope  a  turn  round  that  stump  !  You,  Sorel  : 
do  you  hear  ?  Look  sharp  now,  Boisverd  !  Come  over  to 
this  side,  some  of  you,  and  help  me  !  "  The  men  to  whom 
these  orders  were  directed  paid  not  the  least  attention  to 
them,  though  they  were  poured  out  without  pause  or  inter- 
mission. Henry  Chatillon  directed  the  work,  and  it  pro- 
ceeded quietly  and  rapidl}^  R.'s  sharp  brattling  voice  might 
have  been  heard  incessantly  ;  and  he  was  leaping  about  witli 
the  utmost  activity,  multiplying  himself,  after  the  manner  of 
great  commanders,  as  if  his  universal  presence  and  super- 
vision were  of  the  last  necessity.  His  commands  were  rather 
amusingly  inconsistent  ;  for  when  he  saw  that  the  men  would 
not  do  as  he  told  them,  he  wisely  accommodated  himself  to 
circumstances,  and  with  the  utmost  vehemence  ordered  them 
to  do  precisely  that  which  they  were  at  the  time  engaged 
upon,  no  doubt  recollecting  the  story  of  Mahomet  and  the 
refractory  mountain.  Shaw  smiled  significantly  ;  R.  observed 
it,   and,   approaching   with    a    countenance   of    lofty   indig- 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  47 

nation  began  to  vapor  a  little,  but  was  instantly  reduced  to 
silence. 

The  raft  was  at  length  complete.  We  piled  our  goods  upon 
it,  with  the  exception  of  our  guns,  which  each  man  chose  to 
retain  in  his  own  keeping.  Sorel,  Boisverd,  Wright,  and 
Delorier  took  their  stations  at  the  four  corners,  to  hold  it 
together,  and  swim  across  witii  it ;  and  in  a  moment  more, 
all  our  earthly  possessions  were  floating  on  the  turbid  waters 
of  the  Big  Blue.  We  sat  on  the  bank,  anxiously  watching 
the  result,  until  we  saw  the  raft  safe  landed  in  a  little  cove 
far  down  on  the  opposite  bank.  The  empty  wagons  were 
easily  passed  across  ;  and  then,  each  man  mounting  a  horse, 
we  rode  through  the  stream,  the  stray  animals  following  of 
their  own  accord. 

CHAPTER  VI. 

THE  PLATTE  AND  THE  DESERT. 

Seest  thou  yon  dreary  plain,  forlorn  and  wild, 
The  seat  of  desolation  ? 

Paradise  Lost. 

Here  have  wc  war  for  war,  and  blood  for  blood. 

King  John. 

We  were  now  arrived  at  the  close  of  our  solitary  journey- 
ings  along  the  St.  Joseph's  trail.  On  the  evening  of  the  23d 
of  May  we  encamped  near  its  junction  with  the  old  legitimate 
trail  of  the  Oregon  emigrants.  We  had  ridden  long  that 
afternoon,  trying  in  vain  to  find  wood  and  w^ater,  until  at 
length  we  saw  the  sunset  sky  reflected  from  a  pool  encircled 
by  bushes  and  a  rock  or  two.  The  water  lay  in  the  bottom 
of  a  hollow,  the  smooth  prairie  gracefully  rising  in  oceanlike 
swells  on  every  side.  We  pitched  our  tents  by  it  ;  not  how- 
ever before  the  keen  eye  of  Ileniy  Chatillon  had  discerned 
some  unusual  object  upon  tlic  faintly  defined  outline  of  the 
<listant  swell.  But  in  the  moist,  hazy  atmosphere  of  the  even- 
ing, nothing  could  be  clearly  distinguished.  As  we  lay 
around  the  fire  after  supper,  a  low  and  distant  sound,  strange 
enough  amid  the  loneliness  of  the  prairie,  reached  our  ears — 
peals  of  laughter,  and  the  faint  voices  of  men  and  women. 
For  eight  days  we  had  not  encountei;ed  a  human  being,  and 
this  singular  warning  of  their  vicinity  had  an  effect  extremely 
wild  and  impressive. 

About  dark   a  sallow-faced  fellow    descended  the    hill  on 


48  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

liorseback,  and  splashing  through  the  pool  rode  up  to  the 
tents.  He  was  enveloped  in  a  huge  cloak,  and  his  broad  felt 
hat  was  weeping  about  his  ears  with  the  drizzling  moisture  of 
the  evening.  Another  followed,  a  stout,  square  built,  intelli- 
gent looking  man,  who  announced  himself  as  leader  of  an 
eoiigrant  party  encamped  a  mile  in  advance  of  us.  About 
twenty  wagons,  he  said,  were  with  him  ;  the  rest  of  his  part}^ 
were  on  the  other  side  of  the  Big  Blue,  waiting  for  a  woman 
who  was  in  the  pains  of  cliild-birth,  and  quarreling  meanwhile 
among  themselves. 

These  were  the  first  emigrants  that  we  had  overtaken, 
although  we  had  found  abundant  and  melancholy  traces  of 
their  progress  throughout  the  whole  course  of  the  journey. 
Sometimes  we  passed  the  grave  of  one  who  had  sickened  and 
died  on  the  wa}^  The  earth  was  usually  torn  up,  and  covered 
thickly  with  wolf-tracks.  Some  had  escaped  this  violation. 
One  morning  a  piece  of  plank,  standing  upright  on  the  sum- 
mit of  a  grassy  hill,  attracted  our  notice,  and  riding  up  to  it 
we  found  the  following  words  very  roughly  traced  upon  it, 
apparently  by  a  red-hot  piece  of  iron  : 

MARY  ELLIS. 

DIED    MAY    7th,    1845. 

Aged    two  months. 

Such  tokens  were  of  common  occurrence.  Nothing  could 
speak  more  for  the  hardihood,  or  rather  infatuation,  of  the 
adventurers,  or  the  sufferings  that  await  them  upon  the  jour- 
ney. 

We  were  late  in  breaking  up  our  camp  on  the  following 
morning,  and  scarcely  had  we  ridden  a  mile  when  we  saw, 
far  in  advance  of  us,  drawn  against  the  horizon,  a  line  of 
objects  stretching  at  regular  intervals  along  the  level  edge  of 
the  prairie.  An  intervening  swell  soon  hid  them  from  sight, 
until,  ascending  it  a  quarter  of  an  hour  after,  we  saw  close 
before  us  the  emigrant  caravan,  with  its  heav}"  white  wagons 
creeping  on  in  their  slow  procession,  and  a  large  drove  of  cattle 
following  behind.  Half  a  dozen  yellow- visaged  oVIissourians, 
mounted  on  horseback,  were  cursing  and  shouting  among  them  ; 
their  lank  angular  j^roportions  enveloped  in  brown  homespun, 
evidently  cut  and  adjusted  by  the  hands  of  a  domestic  female 
tailor.  As  we  approached,  they  greeted  us  with  the  polished 
salutation:  "How  are  ve,  boys?  Are  ye  for  Oregon  or 
California?" 


THF:  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  49 

As  we  pushed  rapidly  past  the  wagons,  children's  faces 
were  thrust  out  from  the  white  coverings  to  look  at  us  ;  while 
the  care-worn,  tli in-featured  matron,  or  tl»e  buxom  girl,  seated 
in  front,  suspended  tlie  knitting  on  which  most  of  them  were 
engaged  to  stare  at  us  with  wondering  curiosit}'.  By  the  side 
of  eacli  wagon  stalked  the  proprietor,  urging  on  his  patient 
oxen,  who  shouldered  heavily  along,  inch  by  inch,  on  their 
interminable  journe}'.  It  was  easy  to  see  that  fear  and  dis- 
sension prevailed  among  them  ;  some  of  the  men — but  these, 
with  one  exception,  were  bachelors — looked  wistfully  upon  us 
as  we  rode  lightly  and  swiftly  past,  and  then  impatiently  at 
their  own  lumbering  wagons  and  heavy-gaited  oxen.  Others 
were  unwilling  to  advance  at  all  until  the  party  they  had 
left  behind  should  have  rejoined  them.  Many  were  murmur- 
ing against  the  leader  they  had  chosen,  and  wished  to  depose 
him  ;  and  this  discontent  was  fomented  by  some  ambitious 
spirits,  who  had  hopes  of  succeeding  in  his  place.  The  women 
were  divided  between  regrets  for  the  homes  they  had  left  and 
apprehension  of  the  deserts  and  the  savages  before  them. 

We  soon  left  them  far  behind,  and  fondly  hoped  that  we  had 
taken  a  final  leave  ;  but  unluckily  our  companions'  wagon 
stuck  so  long  in  a  deep  muddy  ditch  that,  before  it  was 
extricated,  the  van  of  the  emigrant  caravan  appeared  again, 
descending  a  ridge  close  at  hand.  Wagon  after  wagon 
plunged  through  the  mud;  and  as  it  was  nearly  noon,  and 
the  place  promised  shade  and  water,  we  saw  with  much 
gratification  that  they  were  resolved  to  encamp.  Soon  the 
wagons  were  wheeled  into  a  circle  ;  the  cattle  were  grazing 
over  the  meadow,  and  the  men  with  sour,  sullen  faces,  were 
looking  about  for  wood  and  water.  Thej^  seemed  to  meet 
with  but  indifferent  success.  As  we  left  the  ground,.  I  saw  a 
tall  slouching  fellow  with  the  nasal  accent  of  "down  east," 
contemplating  the  contents  of  his  tin  cup,  which  he  had  just 
filled  with  water. 

"  Look  here,  you,"  he  said  ;  *'  it's  chock  full  of  animals  !  " 

The  cup,  as  he  held  it  out,  exhibited  in  fact  an  extraordi- 
nary variety  and  profusion  of  animal  and  vegetable  life. 

Riding  up  the  little  hill  and  looking  back  on  the  meadow, 
we  could  easily  see  that  all  was  not  right  in  the  camp  of  the 
emigrants.  The  men  were  crowded  together,  and  an  angry 
discussion  seemed  to  be  going  forward.  R.  was  missing 
from  his  wonted  place  in  the  line,  and  the  captain  told  us 
that  he  ha<l  remained  behind  to  get  his  horse  shod  by  a  black- 
smith who  was  attached  to  the  omigrant  party.     Something 


50  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

wliispered  in  our  ears  that  miscliief  was  on  foot  ;  we  kept 
on,  however,  and  coming  soon  to  a  stream  of  tolerable  water, 
we  stopped  to  rest  and  dine.  Still  the  absentee  lingered 
behind.  At  last,  at  the  distance  of  a  mile,  he  and  his  horse 
suddenly  appeared,  sharply  defined  against  the  sky  on  the 
summit  of  a  hill  ;  and  close  behind,  a  huge  white  object  rose 
slowly  into  view. 

"  What  is  that  blockhead  bringing  with  him  now?" 

A  moment  dispelled  the  mystery.  Slowly  and  solemnly, 
one  behind  the  other,  four  long  trains  of  oxen  and  four  emi- 
grant wagons  rolled  over  the  crest  of  the  declivity  and 
gravely  descended,  while  R.  rode  in  state  in  the  van.  It 
seems  that,  durini2r  the  process  of  shoeing  the  horse,  the 
smothered  dissensions  among  the  emigrants  suddenly  broke 
into  open  rupture.  Some  insisted  on  pushing  forward,  some 
on  remaining  where  they  were,  and  some  on  going  back. 
Kearsley,  their  captain,  threw  up  his  command  in  disgust. 
"  And  now,  boys,"  said  he,  "  if  any  of  you  are  for  going 
ahead,  just  you  come  along  witli  me." 

Four  wagons,  with  ten  men,  one  woman,  and  one  small 
child,  made  up  the  force  of  the  "  go-ahead  "  faction,  and  R., 
with  his  usual  proclivity  toward  mischief,  invited  them  to 
join  our  party.  Fear  of  the  Indians — for  I  can  conceive  of 
no  other  motive — must  have  induced  him  to  court  so  burden- 
some an  alliance.  As  may  well  be  conceived,  these  repeated 
instances  of  high-handed  dealing  sufficiently  exasperated  us. 
In  this  case,  indeed,  the  men  who  joined  us  were  all  that 
could  be  desired  ;  rude  indeed  in  manner,,  but  frank,  manly, 
and  intelligent.  To  tell  them  we  could  not  travel  with  them 
was  of  course  out  of  the  question.  I  merely  reminded  Kear- 
sley that  if  his  oxen  could  not  keep  up  with  our  mules  he 
must  expect  to  be  left  behind,  as  we  could  not  consent  to  be 
farther  delayed  on  the  journey  ;  but  he  immediately  replied, 
that  his  oxen  ^^  should  keep  up  ;  and  if  they  couldn't,  why  he 
allowed  he'd  find  out  how  to  make  'em  !  "  Having  availed 
myself  of  what  satisfaction  could  be  derived  from  giving  R. 
to  understand  my  opinion  of  his  conduct,  I  returned  to  our 
side  of  the  camp. 

On  the  next  day,  as  it  chanced,  our  English  companions 
broke  the  axle-tree  of  their  wagon,  and  down  came  the  w^hole 
cumbrous  machine  lumbering  into  the  bed  of  a  brook  !  Here 
was  a  day's  work  cut  out  for  us.  Meanwhile,  our  emigrant 
associates  kept  on  their  way,  and  so  vigorously  did  they  ui-ge 
forward  their  powerful  oxen  that,  with  the  broken  axle-tree 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AISD  OREGON  TRAIL.  51 

finJ  otlier  calamities,  it  was  full  a  week  before  we  overtook 
tliem  ;  when  at  length  we  discovered  them,  one  afternoon, 
crawling  quietly  along  the  sandy  brink  of  the  Platte.  But 
meanwhile  various  incidents  occurred  to  ourselves. 

It  was  probable  that  at  this  stage  of  our  journey  the  Paw- 
nees would  attempt  to  rob  us.  We  began  therefore  to  stand 
guard  in  turn,  dividing  the  night  into  three  watches,  and 
appointing  two  men  for  each.  Delorier  and  I  held  guard 
together.  We  did  not  march  with  niilitary  precision  to  and 
fro  before  the  tents;  our  discipline  was  by  no  means  so  stringent 
and  rigid.  We  wrapped  ourselves  in  our  blankets,  and  sat 
down  by  the  fire  ;  and  Delorier,  combining  his  culinary  func- 
tions with  his  duties  as  sentinel,  employed  himself  in  boiling 
the  head  of  an  antelope  for  our  morning's  repast.  Yet  we  were 
models  of  vigilance  in  comparison  with  some  of  the  party  ; 
for  the  ordinary  practice  of  the  guard  Avas  to  establish  himself 
in  the  most  comfortable  posture  he  could  ;  lay  his  rifle  on  the 
ground,  and  enveloping  his  nose  in  the  blanket,  meditate  on 
his  mistress,  or  whatever  subject  best  pleased  him.  This  is 
all  well  enough  when  among  Indians  who  do  not  habitually 
proceed  further  in  their  hostility  than  robbing  travelers  of 
their  horses  and  mules,  though,  indeed  a  Pawnee's  forbearance 
is  not  always  to  be  trusted  ;  but  in  certain  regions  farther  to 
the  west,  the  guard  must  beware  how  he  exposes  his  person 
to  the  light  of  the  fire,  lest  perchance  some  keen-ej^ed  skulk- 
ing marksman  should  let  fly  a  bullet  or  an  arrow  from  amid 
the  darkness. 

Among  various  tales  that  circulated  around  our  camp  fire 
was  a  rather  curious  one,  told  by  Boisverd,  and  not  inappro- 
priate here.  Boisverd  was  trapping  with  several  companions 
on  the  skirts  of  the  Blackfoot  country.  The  man  on  guard, 
well  knowing  that  it  behooved  him  to  put  forth  his  utmost 
precaution,  kept  aloof  from  the  firelight,  and  sat  watching 
intently  on  all  sides.  At  lengtli  lie  was  aware  of  a  dark, 
crouching  figure,  stealing  noiselessl}^  into  the  circle  of  the 
light.  He  hastily  cocked  his  rifle,  but  the  sharp  click  of  the 
lock  caught  the  ear  of  Blackfoot,  whose  senses  were  all  on 
the  alert.  Raising  his  arrow,  already  fitted  to  the  string,  he 
shot  in  the  direction  of  the  sound.  So  sure  was  his  aim 
that  lie  drove  it  through  the  throat  of  the  unfortunate  guard, 
and  then,  with  a  loud  yell,  bounded  from  the  onmp. 

As  I  looked  at  the  partner  of  ray  watch,  pufting  and  blow- 
ing over  his  fire,  it  occurred  to  me  that  he  might  not  prove 
the  most  eflicient  auxiliary  in  time  of  trouble. 


52  THE  CALIFOUNIA  AND   OimGON  TRAIL. 

"  Delorier,"  said  I,  "  would  you  run  away  if  the  Pawnees 
should  fire  at  us  ?  " 

"  Ah  !   oui,  oui,  monsieur  !  "  he  replied  very  decisively. 

I  did  not  doubt  the  fact,  but  was  a  little  surprised  at  the 
frankness  of  the  confession. 

At  this  instant  a  most  whimsical  variety  of  voices — barks, 
howls,  yelps,  and  whines — all  mingled  as  it  were  together, 
sounded  from  the  prairie,  not  far  off,  as  if  a  whole  conclave  of 
wolves  of  every  age  and  sex  were  assembled  there.  Delorier 
looked  up  from  his  work  with  a  laugh,  and  began  to  imitate 
this  curious  medley  of  sounds  with  a  most  ludicrous  accuracy. 
At  this  they  were  repeated  with  redoubled  emphasis,  tlie  musi- 
cian being  apparently  indignant  at  the  successful  efforts  of  a 
rival.  They  all  proceeded  from  the  throat  of  one  little  wolf, 
not  larger  than  a  spaniel,  seated  by  himself  at  some  distance. 
He  was  of  the  species  called  the  prairie  wolf  ;  a  grim-visaged, 
but  harmless  little  brute,  whose  worst  propensity  is  creeping 
among  horses  and  gnawing  the  ropes  of  raw  hide  by  wiiich 
they  are  picketed  around  the  camp.  But  other  beasts  roam 
the  prairies,  far  more  formidable  in  aspect  and  in  character. 
These  are  the  large  white  and  gray  wolves,  whose  deep  howl 
we  heard  at  intervals  from  far  and  near. 

At  last  I  fell  into  a  doze,  and,  awakening  from  it,  found 
Delorier  fast  asleep.  Scandalized  by  this  breach  of  discipline, 
I  was  about  to  stimulate  his  vigilance  by  stirring  him  with 
the  stock  of  my  rifle  ;  but  compassion  prevailing,  I  deter- 
mined to  let  him  sleep  a  while,  and  then  to  arouse  him,  and 
administer  a  suitable  reproof  for  such  a  forgetfulness  of  duty. 
Now  and  then  I  walked  the  rounds  among  the  silent  horses, 
to  see  that  all  was  right.  The  night  w^as  chill,  damp,  and 
dark,  the  dank  grass  bending  under  the  icy  dew-drops.  At 
the  distance  of  a  rod  or  two  the  tents  w^ere  invisible,  and 
nothing  could  be  seen  but  the  obscure  figures  of  the  horses, 
deeply  breathingj  and  restlessly  starting  as  they  slept,  or  still 
slowly  champing  the  grass.  Far  off,  beyond  the  black  out- 
line of  the  prairie,  there  was  a  ruddy  light,  gradually  increas- 
ing, like  the  glow  of  a  conflagration  ;  until  at  length  the 
broad  disk  of  the  moon,  blood-red,  and  vastly  magnified  by 
the  vapors,  rose  slowly  upon  the  darkness,  flecked  by  one  or 
two  little  clouds,  and  as  the  light  poured  over  the  gloomy 
plain,  a  fierce  and  stern  howl,  close  at  hand,  seemed  to  greet 
it  as  an  unwelcome  intruder.  There  was  something  impres- 
sive and  awful  in  the  place  and  the  hour  ;  for  I  and  the  beasts 
>vere  all  that  had  consciousness  for  many  a  league  around, 


THE  CALIFORyTA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  53 

Some  days  elapsed,  and  brought  us  near  the  Platte.  Two 
men  on  horseback  approached  us  one  morning,  and  we  watched 
them  with  tlie  curiosity  and  interest  that,  upon  the  solitude 
of  the  plains,  such  an  encounter  always  excites.  They  were 
evidently  whites,  from  their  mode  of  riding,  though,  contrary 
to  the  usage  of  that  region,  neither  of  them  carried  a  rifle. 

"  Fools  !  "  remarked  Henry  Chatillon,  "  to  ride  that  way  on 
tlie  prairie  ;  Pawnee  find  them — then  they  catch  it  ! ' 

Pawnee  had  found  them,  and  they  had  come  very  near 
"  catching  it  ;  "  indeed,  nothing  saved  them  from  trouble  but 
the  approach  of  our  party.  Shaw  and  I  knew  one  of  them  ; 
a  man  named  Turner,  whom  we  had  seen  at  Westport.  He 
and  his  companion  belonged  to  an  emigrant  party  encamped 
a  few  miles  in  advance,  and  had  returned  to  look  for  some 
stray  oxen,  leaving  their  rifles,  with  characteristic  rashness  or 
ignorance,  behind  them.  Their  neglect  had  nearly  cost  them 
dear  ;  for  just  before  we  came  up,  half  a  dozen  Indians 
approached,  and  seeing  them  apparently  defenseless,  one  of 
the  rascals  seized  the  bridle  of  Turner's  fine  horse,  and  ordered 
him  to  dismount.  Turner  was  wholly  unarmed  ;  but  the 
other  jerked  a  little  revolving  pistol  out  of  his  pocket,  at 
which  the  Pawnee  recoiled  ;  and  just  then  some  of  our  men 
appearing  in  the  distance,  the  whole  party  whipped  their 
rugged  little  horses,  and  made  off.  In  no  way  daunted. 
Turner  foolishly  persisted  in  going  forward. 

Long  after  leaving  him,  and  late  this  afternoon,  in  the 
midst  of  a  gloomy  and  barren  prairie,  we  came  suddenly  upon 
the  great  Pawnee  trail,  leading  from  their  villages  on  the 
Platte  to  their  war  and  hunting  grounds  to  the  southward. 
Here  every  summer  pass  the  motley  concourse  ;  thousands  of 
savages,  men,  women,  and  children,  horses  and  mules,  laden 
with  their  weapons  and  implements,  and  an  innumerable 
multitude  of  unruly  woliish  dogs,  who  have  not  acquired  tlie 
civilized  accomi)lishment  of  barking,  but  howl  like  their  wild 
cousins  of  the  prairie. 

The  permanent  winter  villages  of  the  Pawnees  stand  on 
tlie  lower  Platte,  but  throughout  the  summer  the  greater 
part  of  the  inhabitants  are  wandering  over  the  plains,  a 
treacherous,  cowardly  banditti,  who  by  a  thousand  acts  of 
pillage  and  murder  have  deserved  summary  chnstisement  at 
the  hands  of  government.  Last  year  a  Dakota  warrior 
jierformed  r*  signal  exploit  at  one  of  these  villages.  He 
approached  it  alone  in  the  middle  of  a  dark  night,  and  clam- 
bering up  the  outside  of  one  of  the  lodges   which  are  in  the 


54  THE  CALTFOnNIA  AND  OJREGOy  TRAIL. 

form  of  a  half -sphere,  he  looked  in  at  the  round  hole  made  at 
tlie  top  for  the  escape  of  smoke.  Tlie  dusky  liglit  from  the 
smoldering  embers  showed  him  the  forms  of  the  sleeping 
inmates ;  and  dropping  lightly  through  the  opening,  he 
unsheathed  his  knife,  and  stirring  the  fire  coolly  selected  his 
victims.  One  by  one  he  stabbed  and  scalped  them,  when  a 
child  suddenl}^  awoke  and  screamed.  He  rushed  from  the 
lodge,  yelled  a  Sioux  war-cry,  shouted  his  name  in  triumph 
and  defiance,  and  in  a  moment  had  darted  out  upon  the  dark 
prairie,  leaving  the  whole  village  behind  him  in  a  tumult, 
with  the  howling  and  baying  of  dogs,  the  screams  of  women, 
and  the  yells  of  tlie  enraged  warriors. 

Our  friend  Kearsley,  as  we  learned  on  rejoining  him,  sig- 
nalized himself  by  a  less  bloody  achievement.  He  and  his 
men  were  good  woodsmen,  and  well  skilled  in  the  use  of  the 
rifie,  but  found  themselves  wholly  out  of  their  element  on  the 
prairie.  None  of  them  liad  ever  seen  a  buffalo,  and  they  had 
ver}'-  vague  conceptions  of  his  nature  and  appearance.  On  the 
day  after  tliey  reached  the  Platte,  looking  toward  a  distant 
swell,  they  beiield  a  multitude  of  little  black  specks  in  motion 
upon  its  surface. 

"Take  your  rifles,  boys,"  said  Kearsley,  "and  we'll  have 
fresh  meat  for  supper."  This  inducement  was  quite  sufticient. 
The  ten  men  left  their  wagons  and  set  out  in  hot  haste,  some  on 
horseback  and  some  on  foot,  in  pursuit  of  tlie  supposed  buffalo. 
Meanwhile  a  high  grassy  ridge  shut  the  game  from  view  ; 
but  mounting  it  after  half  an  hour's  running  and  riding, 
they  found  themselves  suddenl}^  confronted  by  about  thirty 
mounted  Pawnees  !  The  amazement  and  consternation  were 
mutual.  Having  nothing  but  their  bows  and  arrows,  the 
Indians  thought  their  hour  was  come,  and  the  fate  that  they 
were  no  doubt  conscious  of  richly  deserving  about  to  over- 
take them.  So  they  began,  one  and  all,  to  shout  forth  the 
most  cordial  salutations  of  friendship,  running  up  with 
extreme-  earnestness  to  shake  hands  with  the  Missourians, 
who  were  as  much  rejoiced  as  the}^  Avere  to  escape  the  expected 
conflict. 

A  low  undulating  line  of  sand-hills  bounded  the  horizon 
before  us.  That  day  we  rode  ten  consecutive  hours,  and  it 
was  dusk  before  we  entered  the  hollows  and  gorges  of  these 
gloomy  little  hills.  At  length  we  gained  the  summit,  and 
the  long  expected  valley  of  the  Platte  lay  before  us.  We  all 
drew  rein,  and,  gathering  in  a  knot  on  the  crest  of  the  hill, 
sat  joyfully  looking  down  upon  the  prospect.     It  was  right 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  55 

welcome  ;  strange  too,  and  striking  to  the  imagination,  an<l 
yet  it  had  not  one  picturesqne  or  beautiful  feature  ;  nor  had 
it  any  of  the  features  of  grandeur,  other  than  its  vast  extent, 
its  solitude,  and  its  wildness.  For  league  after  league  a  plain 
as  level  as  a  frozen  lake  was  outspread  beneath  us  ;  here  and 
there  the  Platte,  divided  into  a  dozen  tlneadlike  sluices,  was 
traversing  it,  and  an  occasional  clump  of  wood,  rising  in  the 
midst  like  a  shadowy  island,  relieved  the  monotony  of  the 
waste.  No  living  thing  was  moving  throughout  the  vast 
landscape,  except  the  lizards  that  darted  over  the  sand  and 
through  the  rank  gi-ass  and  prickly  pear  just  at  our  feet. 
And  yet  stern  and  wild  associations  gave  a  singular  interest 
to  tlie  view  ;  for  here  each  man  lives  by  the  strength  of  his 
arm  and  the  valor  of  his  heart.  Here  society  is  reduced  to  its 
original  elements,  the  whole  fabric  of  art  and  conventionality 
is  struck  rudely  to  pieces,  and  men  find  themselves  suddenly 
brought  back  to  the  wants  and  resources  of  their  original 
natures. 

We  had  passed  the  more  toilsome  and  monotonous  part  of 
the  journe}^  ;  but  four  hundred  miles  still  intervened  between 
us  and  Fort  Laramie  ;  and  to  reach  that  point  cost  us  the 
travel  of  three  additional  weeks.  During  the  whole  of  this 
time  we  were  passing  up  the  center  of  a  long  narrow  sandy 
plain,  reaching  like  an  outstretched  belt  nearly  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  Two  lines  of  sand-hills,  broken  often  into  the 
wildest  and  most  fantastic  forms,  flanked  the  vallej'-  at  the  dis- 
tance of  a  mile  or  two  on  the  right  and  left  ;  while  beyond 
them  lay  a  barren,  trackless  waste — The  Great  American 
Desert — extending  for  hundreds  of  miles  to  the  Arkansas 
on  the  one  side,  and  the  Missouri  on  the  other.  Before  us 
and  behind  us,  the  level  monotony  of  the  plain  was  unbroken 
as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  Sometimes  it  glared  in  the 
sun,  an  expanse  of  hot,  bare  sand  ;  sometimes  it  was  veiled 
by  long  coarse  grass.  Huge  skulls  and  whitening  bones  of 
buffalo  were  scattered  everywhere  ;  the  ground  was  tracked 
by  myriads  of  them,  and  often  covered  with  the  circular  in- 
dentations Avhere  the  bulls  had  wallowed  in  the  hot  weather. 
From  every  gorge  and  ravine,  opening  from  the  iiills, 
descended  deep,  well-worn  paths,  where  the  buffalo  issue 
twice  a  day  in  regular  procession  down  to  drink  in  tlie 
Platte.  The  river  itself  runs  through  the  midst,  a  thin  sheet 
of  rapid,  turbid  water,  half  a  mile  wide,  and  scarce  two  feet 
deep.  Its  low  banks,  for  the  most  part  without  a  bush  or  a 
tree,  are  of  loose  sand,  with  which  the  stream  is  so  charged 


56  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OHEGON  TRAIL. 

that  it  grates  on  the  teeth  in  drinking.  The  naked  landscape 
is,  of  itself,  dreary  and  monotonous  enough  ;  and  yet  the 
Avild  beasts  and  wild  men  that  frequent  tlie  valley  of  tlie 
Platte  make  it  a  scene  of  interest  and  excitement  to  the 
traveler.  Of  those  who  hav«  journeyed  there,  scarce  one, 
perhaps,  fails  to  look  back  with  fond  regret  to  his  horse  and 
his  rifle. 

Early  in  the  morning  after  we  reached  tlie  Platte,  a  long 
procession  of  squalid  savages  approached  our  camp.  Each 
was  on  foot,  leading  his  horse  by  a  rope  of  bull-hide.  His 
attire  consisted  merely  of  a  scanty  cincture  and  an  old  buffalo 
robe,  tattered  and  begrimed  by  nse,  which  hung  over  his 
shoulders.  Ilis  head  was  close  shaven,  except  a  ridge  of 
hair  reaching  over  the  crown  from  the  center  of  the  forehead, 
very  much  like  the  long  bristles  on  the  back  of  a  hyena,  and 
he  carried  his  bow  and  arrows  in  his  hand,  while  his  meager 
little  horse  was  laden  with  dried  buffalo  meat,  the  produce 
of  his  hunting.  Such  were  the  first  specimens  that  we  met 
— and  very  indifferent  ones  they  were — of  the  genuine  savages 
of  the  prairie. 

They  were  the  Pawnees  whom  Kearsley  had  encountered 
the  day  before,  and  belonged  to  a  large  hunting  party  known 
to  be  ranging  the  prairie  in  the  vicinity.  They  strode  rapidly 
past,  within  a  furlong  of  our  tents,  not  pausing  or  looking 
toward  us,  after  the  manner  of  Indians  when  meditating  mis- 
chief or  conscious  of  ill  desert.  I  went  out  and  met  tliem  ; 
and  had  an  amicable  conference  with  the  chief,  presenting 
him  with  halt'  a  pound  of  tobacco,  at  which  unmerited  bounty 
he  expressed  much  gratification.  These  fellows,  or  some  of 
their  companions,  had  committed  a  dastardly  outrage  upon 
an  emigrant  party  in  advance  of  us.  Two  men,  out  on  horse- 
back at  a  distance,  were  seized  by  them,  but  lashing  tlieir 
horses,  they  broke  loose  and  fled.  At  this  the  Pawnees 
raised  the  yell  and  shot  at  them,  transfixing  the  hindermost 
through  the  back  with  several  arrows,  while  his  com- 
panion galloped  away  and  brought  in  the  news  to  his 
part}^  The  panic-stricken  emigrants  remained  for  several 
days  in  camp,  not  daring  even  to  send  out  in  quest  of  the 
dead  body. 

The  reader  will  recollect  Turner,  the  man  whose  narrow 
escape  was  mentioned  not  long  since.  We  heard  that  the 
men,  whom  the  entreaties  of  his  wife  induced  to  go  in  search 
of  liinj,  found  him  leisurely  driving  along  his  recovered  oxou, 
and  whistling  in  utter  contempt  of  the  Pawnee  nation.     His 


THE  CALIFORNU  ANJJ  OREGON  TRAIL  57 

party  was  encamped  witliin  two  miles  of  us  ;  but  we  passed 
them  that  morning,  wliile  the  men  were  driving  in  the  oxen, 
and  the  women  packing  their  domestic  utensils  and  their 
numerous  offspring  in  the  spacious  patriarchal  wagons.  As 
we  looked  back  we  saw  tlieir  caravan  dragging  its  slow 
length  along  the  plain  ;  wearily  toiling  on  its  way,  to  found 
new  empires  in  the  West. 

Our  New  England  climate  is  mild  and  equable  compared 
with  that  of  the  Platte.  This  very  morning,  for  instance, 
was  close  and  sultry,  the  sun  rising  with  a  faint  oppressive 
heat ;  when  suddenly  darkness  gathered  in  the  west,  and  a 
furious  blast  of  sleet  and  hail  drove  full  in  our  faces,  icy  cold, 
and  urged  with  such  demoniac  vehemence  that  it  felt  like  a 
storm  of  needles.  It  was  curious  to  see  the  horses  ;  they 
faced  about  in  extreme  displeasure,  holding  their  tails  like 
whipped  dogs,  and  shivering  as  the  angry  gusts,  howling 
louder  than  a  concert  of  wolves,  swept  over  us.  AVright's 
long  train  of  mules  came  sweeping  round  before  the  stoiin 
like  a  flight  of  brown  snowbirds  driven  by  a  winter  tempest. 
Thus  we  all  remained  stationary  for  some  minutes,  crouching 
close  to  our  horses'  necks,  much  too  surl}'  to  speak,  though 
once  the  captain  looked  up  from  between  the  collars  of  his 
coat,  his  face  blood-red,  and  the  muscles  of  his  mouth  con- 
tracted by  the  cold  into  a  most  ludicrous  grin  of  agony.  He 
grumbled  something  that  sounded  like  a  curse,  directed,  as 
we  believed,  against  the  unhappy  hour  when  he  had  first 
thought  of  leaving  home.  The  thing  was  too  good  to  last 
long  ;  and  the  instant  the  puffs  of  wind  subsided  we  erected 
our  tents,  and  remained  in  camp  for  the  rest  of  a  gloomy  and 
lowering  day.  The  emigrants  also  encam))ed  near  at  liand. 
We,  being  flrst  on  the  ground,  had  appropriated  all  the  wood 
within  reach  ;  so  that  our  fii-e  alone  blazed  cheerily.  Around 
it  soon  gathered  a  group  of  uncouth  figures,  shivering  in  tlie 
drizzling  rain.  Conspicuous  among  them  were  two  or  three 
of  the  half-savage  men  who  spend  their  reckless  lives  in  trap- 
ping among  the  Rocky  Mountains,  or  in  trading  for  the  Fnr 
Company  in  the  Indian  villages.  They  were  all  of  Canadian 
extraction  ;  their  hard,  weather-beaten  faces  and  bushy  mus- 
taches looked  out  from  beneath  the  hoods  of  their  white 
capotes  with  a  bad  and  brutish  expression,  as  if  their  owner 
might  be  the  willing  agent  of  any  villainy.  And  such  in  fact 
is  the  character  of  many  of  these  men. 

On  the  day  following  we  overtook  Kearsley's  wagons,  and 
thenceforward,  for  a  week  or  two,  we  were  fellow-travelers. 


58  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OUEGON  THAIL. 

One  good  effect,  at  least,  resulted  from  the  alliance ;  it 
materially  diminished  the  serious  fatigue  of  standing  guard  ; 
for  the  party  being  now  more  numerous,  there  were  longer 
intervals  between  each  man's  turns  of  duty, 

CHAP;i^ER  VII. 

THE    BUFFALO. 

Twice  twenty  leagues 
Beyond  remotest  smoke  of  hunter's  camp, 
Roams  the  majestic  brute,  in  herds  that  shake 
The  earth  with  thundering  steps. 

Bryant. 

Four  days  on  the  Platte,  and  yet  no  buffalo  !  Last  year's 
signs  of  them  were  provokingly  abundant  ;  and  wood  being 
extremely  scarce,  we  found  an  admirable  substitute  in  the  hois 
de  vache,  which  burns  exactly  like  peat,  producing  no  unpleas- 
ant effects.  The  wagons  one  morning  had  left  the  camp  ; 
Sliaw  and  I  were  already  on  horseback,  but  Henry  Chatillon 
still  sat  cross-legged  by  the  dead  embers  of  the  fire,  playing 
pensively  with. the  lock  of  his  rifle,  while  his  sturdy  Wyandotte 
pony  stood  quietly  behind  him,  looking  over  his  head.  At 
last  he  got  up,  patted  the  neck  of  the  pony  (whom,  from  an 
exaggerated  appreciation  of  his  merits,  he  had  christened 
"Five  Hundred  Dollar"),  and  then  mounted  with  a  melan- 
cholv  air. 

"  What  is  it,  Henry?" 

"  Ah,  I  feel  lonesome  ;  I  never  been  here  before  ;  but  I  see 
away  vonder  over  the  buttes,  and  down  there  on  the  prairie, 
black— all  black  with  buffalo  !  " 

In  the  afternoon  he  and  I  left  the  party  in  search  of  an 
antelope  ;  until  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  or  two  on  the  right, 
the  tall  white  wagons  and  the  little  black  specks  of  horsemen 
were  just  visible,  so  slowly  advancing  that  they  seemed  motion- 
less ;  and  far  on  the  left  rose  the  broken  line  of  scorched, 
desolate  sand-hills.  The  vast  plain  waved  with  tall  rank 
grass  that  swept  our  horses'  bellies  ;  it  swayed  to  and  fro  in 
billows  with  the  light  breeze,  and  far  and  near  antelope  and 
wolves  were  moving  through  it,  the  hairy  backs  of  the  latter 
alternately  appearing  and  disappearing  as  they  bounded  awk- 
wardly along  :  while  the  antelope,  with  the  simple  curiosity 
])eculiar  to  them,  would  often  approach  us  closely,  their  little 
liorns  and  white  throats  just  visible  above  the  grass  tops,  as 
they  gazed  eagerly  at  us  with  their  round  black  eyes. 


THE  CALIFOnNlA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  59 

I  (lisinounted,  and  amused  myself  witli  firing  at  the  wolves. 
Henry  attentively  scrutinized  the  surrounding  landscape  ;  at 
length  he  gave  a  shout,  and  called  on  me  to  mount  again, 
pointing  in  the  direction  of  the  sand-hills.  A  mile  and  a  half 
from  us,  two  minute  black  specks  slowly  traversed  the  face  of 
one  of  the  bare  glaring  declivities,  and  disappeared  behind 
the  summit.  "  Let  us  go  !  "  cried  Henry,  belaboring  the  sides 
of  Five  Hundred  Dollar  ;  and  I  following  in  his  wake,  we 
galloped  rapidly  through  the  rank  grass  toward  the  base  of 
the  hills. 

From  one  of  their  openings  descended  a  deep  ravine,  widen- 
ing as  it  issued  on  the  prairie.  We  entered  it,  and  galloping 
up,  in  a  moment  were  surrounded  by  the  bleak  sand-hills. 
Half  of  their  steep  sides  were  bare  ;  the  rest  were  scantily 
clothed  with  clumps  of  grass,  and  various  uncouth  plants,  con- 
spicuous among  which  appeared  the  rei)tile-like  prickly-pear. 
They  were  gashed  with  numberless  ravines ;  and  as  the  sky 
had  suddenly  darkened,  and  a  cold  gusty  wind  arisen,  the 
strange  shrubs  and  the  dreary  hills  looked  doubly  wild  and 
desolate.  But  Henry's  face  was  all  eagerness.  He  tore  off  a 
little  hair  from  the  piece  of  buffalo  robe  under  his  saddle,  and 
threw  it  up,  to  show  the  course  of  the  wind.  It  blew  directly 
before  us.  The  game  were  therefore  to  windward,  and  it  was 
necessary  to  make  our  best  speed  to  get  round  them. 

We  scrambled  from  tiiis  ravine,  and  galloping  away  through 
the  hollows,  soon  found  another,  winding  like  a  snake  among 
the  hills,  and  so  deep  that  it  completel}^  concealed  us.  We 
rode  up  the  bottom  of  it,  glancing  through  the  shrubbery  at 
its  edge,  till  Henry  abruptly  jerked  his  rein,  and  slid  out  of 
his  saddle.  Full  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant,  on  the  outline  of 
the  farthest  hill,  a  long  procession  of  buffalo  were  walking,  in 
Indian  file,  with  the  utmost  gravity  and  deliberation  ;  then 
more  appeared,  clambering  from  a  hollow  not  far  off,  and 
ascending,  one  behind  the  other,  the  grassj'-  slope  of  another 
hill  ;  then  a  shaggy  head  and  a  pair  of  short  broken  horns 
appeared  issuing  out  of  a  ravine  close  at  hand,  and  with  a 
slow,  statel}^  step,  one  by  one,  the  enormous  brutes  came  into 
view,  taking  their  way  across  the  valley,  wholly  unconscious 
of  an  enemy.  In  a  moment  Henry  was  worming  his  way, 
lying  fl.'U  on  the  ground,  through  grass  and  prickly-pears, 
toward  his  unsuspecting  victims.  He  had  with  him  both  my 
rifle  and  his  own.  He  was  soon  out  of  sight,  and  still  the 
buffalo  kept  issuing  into  the  valley.  For  a  long  time  all  was 
sileni  ;  I  sat  holding  his  horse,  and  wondering  what  he  was 


60  THE  CALIFOttNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

about,  when  suddenl}^,  in  rapid  succession,  came  the  sharp 
reports  of  the  two  rifles,  and  the  whole  line  of  buffalo,  quick- 
ening their  pace  into  a  clumsy  trot,  gradually  disappeared 
over  the  ridge  of  the  hill.  Henry  rose  to  his  feet,  and  stood 
looking  after  them. 

"  You  have  missed  them,"  said  I. 

"  Yes,"  said  Henry  ;  "  let  us  go."  He  descended  into  tho 
ravine,  loaded  the  rifles,  and  mounted  his  horse. 

We  rode  up  the  hill  after  the  buffalo.  The  herd  was  out 
of  sight  when  we  reached  the  top,  but  lying  on  the  grass  not 
far  off*,  was  one  quite  lifeless,  and  another  violently  struggling 
in  the  death  agony. 

**  You  see  I  miss  hini  !  "  remarked  Henr3\  He  had  fired 
from  a  distance  of  more  than  a  hundred  and  fifty  yards,  and 
both  balls  had  passed  through  the  lungs — the  true  mark  in 
shooting  buffalo. 

The  darkness  increased,  and  a  driving  storm  came  on. 
Tying  our  horses  to  the  horns  of  the  victims,  Henry  began  the 
bloody  work  of  dissection,  slashing  away  wath  the  science  of  a 
connoisseur,  while  I  vainly  endeavored  to  imitate  him.  Old 
Hendrick  recoiled  wnth  horror  and  indignation  when  I  endeav- 
ored to  tie  the  meat  to  the  strings  of  raw  hide,  alwa3^s  carried 
for  this  purpose,  dangling  at  the  back  of  the  saddle.  After 
some  difficulty  we  overcame  his  scruples  ;  and  heavily  bur- 
dened with  the  more  eligible  portions  of  the  buffalo,  we  set 
out  on  our  return.  Scarcely  had  we  emerged  from  the  laby- 
rinth of  gorges  and  ravines,  and  issued  upon  the  open  prairie, 
when  the  prickling  sleet  came  driving,  gust  upon  gust,  directly 
in  our  faces.  It  was  strangely  dark,  though  wanting  still  an 
hour  of  sunset.  The  freezing  storm  soon  penetrated  to  the 
skin,  but  the  uneasy  trot  of  our  heavy-gaited  horses  kept  us 
w^arm  enough,  as  we  forced  them  unwillingly  in  tlie  teeth  of 
the  sleet  and  rain;  by  the  powerful  suasion  of  our  Indian  whips. 
The  prairie  in  this  place  was  hard  and  level.  A  flourishing 
colony  of  prairie  dogs  had  burrowed  into  it  in  every  direction, 
and  the  little  mounds  of  fresh  earth  around  their  holes  were 
about  as  numerous  as  the  hills  in  a  cornfield  ;  but  not  a  yelj) 
was  to  be  heard ;  not  the  nose  of  a  single  citizen  was  visible  ; 
all  had  retired  to  the  depths  of  their  burrows,  and  we  envied 
them  their  dry  and  comfortable  habitations.  An  hour's  hard 
Viding  showed  us  our  tent,  dimly  looming  through  the  storm, 
one  side  puffed  out  by  the  force  of  the  wind,  and  tlie  other 
collapsed  in  proportion,  while  the  disconsolate  horses  stood 
shivering  close  around,  and  the  wind  kept  up  a  dismal  whist- 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  61 

ling  ill  tlie  boughs  of  three  old  half-dead  trees  above.  Shaw, 
like  a  patriarch,  sat  on  his  saddle  in  the  entrance,  with  a  pipe 
in  his  mouth,  and  his  arms  folded,  contemplating,  with  cool 
satisfaction,  the  piles  of  meat  tliat  we  flung  on  the  ground 
before  him.  A  dark  and  dreary  night  succeeded  ;  but  tlie 
sun  rose  with  a  heat  so  sultry  and  languid  that  tlie  captain 
excused  himself  on  that  account  from  waylaying  an  old  buf- 
falo bull,  who  with  stupid  gravity  was  walking  over  the 
prairie  to  drink  at  the  river.  So  much  for  the  climate  of  the 
Platte  ! 

But  it  was  not  the  weather  alone  that  had  produced  this 
sudden  abatement  of  the  sportsmanlike  zeal  which  the  captain 
had  always  professed.  He  had  been  out  on  tlie  afternoon 
before,  together  with  several  members  of  his  party  ;  but  their 
hunting  was  attended  with  no  other  result  than  the  loss  of  one 
of  their  best  horses,  severely  injured  by  Sorel,  in  vainly  chas- 
ing a  wounded  bull.  The  captain,  whose  ideas  of  hard  riding 
were  all  derived  from  transatlantic  sources,  expressed  the 
utmost  amazement  at  the  feats  of  Sorel,  who  went  leaping 
ravines,  and  dashing  at  full  speed  up  and  down  the  sides  of 
])recipitous  hills,  lashing  his  horse  with  the  recklessness  of  a 
Rocky  Mountain  rider.  Unfortunately  for  the  poor  animal 
he  was  the  property  of  R.,  against  whom  Sorel  entertained  an 
unbounded  aversion.  The  captain  himself,  it  seemed,  had 
also  attempted  to  "  run  "  a  buffalo,  but  though  a  good  and 
practiced  horseman,  he  had  soon  given  over  the  attempt,  being 
astonished  and  utterly  disgusted  at  the  nature  of  the  ground 
he  was  required  to  ride  over. 

Nothing  unusual  occurred  on  that  day  ;  but  on  the  follow- 
ing morning  Henry  Chatillon,  looking  over  the  oceanlike 
expanse,  saw  near  the  foot  of  the  distant  hills  something  that 
looked  like  a  band  of  buffalo.  He  was  not  sure,  he  said,  but 
at  all  events,  if  they  were  buffalo,  there  was  a  line  chance  for 
a  race.  Shaw  and  I  at  once  determined  to  try  the  speed  of  our 
horses. 

"  Come,  captain  ;  we'll  see  which  can  ride  hardest,  a  Yankee 
or  an  Irishman." 

But  the  captain  maintained  a  grave  and  austere  counte- 
nance. He  mounted  his  led  horse,  however,  though  very 
slowly ;  and  we  set  out  at  a  trot.  The  game  appeared  about 
three  miles  distant.  As  we  proceeded  the  captain  made  va- 
rious remarks  of  doubt  and  indecision  ;  and  at  length  declared 
he  would  have  nothing  to  do  with  such  a  breakneck  business  ; 
protesting  that  he  had  ridden  plenty  of  steeplechases  in  bU 


62  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL, 

day,  but  be  never  knew  what  riding  was  till  he  found  himself 
Dehind  a  band  of  buffalo  day  before  yesterday.  "I  am  con- 
vinced," said  the  captain,  "that  'running'  is  out  of  the  ques- 
tion.* Take  my  advice  now  and  don't  attempt  it.  It's  dan- 
gerous, and  of  no  use  at  all." 

"  Then  why  did  you  come  out  with  us  ?  What  do  you 
mean  to  do  ?  " 

"I  shall  *  approach,' "  replied  the  captain. 

"You  don't  mean  to  *  approach  '  with  your  pistols,  do  you  ? 
We  have  all  of  us  left  our  rifles  in  the  wagons." 

The  captain  seemed  staggered  at  the  suggestion.  In  his 
characteristic  indecision,  at  setting  out,  pistols,  rifles,  "run- 
ning" and  "approaching"  were  mingled  in  an  inextricable 
medley  in  his  brain.  He  trotted  on  in  silence  between  us  for 
a  while  ;  but  at  length  he  dropped  behind,  and  slowly  walked 
his  horse  back  to  rejoin  the  party.  Shaw  and  I  kept  on  ;  when 
lo  !  as  we  advanced,  tlie  band  of  buffalo  were  transformed 
into  certain  clumps  of  tall  bushes,  dotting  the  prairie  for 
a  considerable  distance.  At  this  ludicrous  termination  of  our 
chase,  we  followed  the  examj^le  of  our  late  aWj,  and  turned 
back  toward  tlie  part3\  We  were  skirting  the  brink  of  a  deep 
ravine,  wlien  we  saw  Henry  and  the  broad-chested  pony  com- 
ing toward  us. at  a  gallop. 

"  Here's  old  Papin  and  Fi'ederic,  down  from  Fort  Laramie  ! " 
sliouted  Henry,  long  before  he  came  up.  We  had  for  some 
days  expected  this  encounter.  Papin  was  the  bourgeois  of 
Fort  Laramie.  He  had  come  down  the  river  with  the  buffalo 
robes  and  the  beaver,  the  produce  of  the  last  winter's  trading. 
I  had  among  our  baggage  a  letter  which  I  wished  to  commit 
to  their  hands  ;  so  requesting  Henry  to  detain  the  boats  if  he 
could  until  my  return,  I  set  out  after  the  wagons.  They  were 
abont  four  miles  in  advance.  In  half  an  hour  I  overtook  them, 
got  the  letter,  trotted  back  upon  the  trail,  and  looking  care- 
fully, as  I  rode,  saw  a  patch  of  broken,  storm-blasted  trees, 
and  movhig  near  them  some  little  black  specks  like  men  and 
horses.  Arriving  at  the  place,  I  found  a  strange  assembly. 
The  boats,  eleven  in  immber,  deep-laden  with  the  skins, 
hugged  close  to  the  shore,  to  escape  being  borne  down  by  the 
swift  current.  The  rowers,  swarthy  ignoble  Mexicans,  turned 
their  brutish  faces  upward  to  look,  as  I  reached  the  bank. 

*Tlie  method  of  hunting  called  "running"  consists  in  attacking  the 
buffalo  on  horseback  and  shooting  him  with  bullets  or  arrows  when  at 
fnl-sp'ied.  In  "approaching,"  the  hunter  conceals  himself  and  crawls 
on  the  ground  toward  the  game,  or  lies  iu  wait  to  kill  theni. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  03 

Papin  sat  in  the  middle  of  one  of  the  boats  upon  the  canvas 
covering  that  protected  the  robes.  He  was  a  stout,  robust 
fellow,  with  a  little  gray  eye,  that  had  a  peculiarly  sly  twinkle. 
"  Frederic,"  also,  stretched  his  tall  rawboned  proportions 
close  by  the  hour(/eois^  and  "  mountain-men  "  completed  the 
group  ;  some  lounging  in  the  boats,  some  strolling  on  shore  ; 
some  attired  in  gayly  painted  buffalo  robes,  like  Indian 
dandies  ;  some  with  hair  saturated  with  red  paint,  and  be- 
plastered  with  glue  to  their  temples  ;  and  one  dedaubed 
with  vermilion  upon  his  forehead  and  each  cheek.  They 
were  a  mongrel  race  ;  yet  the  French  blood  seemed  to 
predominate  ;  in  a  few,  indeed,  might  be  seen  the  black 
snaky  eye  of  the  Indian  half-breed,  and  one  and  all,  they 
seemed  to  aim  at  assimilating  themselves  to  their  savage 
associates. 

I  shook  hands  with  the  bourgeois,  and  delivered  the  letter ; 
then  the  boats  swung  round  into  the  stream  and  floated  away. 
They  had  reason  for  haste,  for  already  the  voyage  from  Fort 
Laramie  had  occupied  a  full  month,  and  the  river  was  grow- 
ing daily  more  shallow.  Fifty  times  a  day  the  boats  had 
been  aground  ;  indeed,  those  who  navigate  the  Platte  invari- 
ably spend  half  their  time  upon  sand-bars.  Two  of  these 
boats,  the  property  of  private  traders,  afterward  separating 
from  the  rest,  got  hopelessly  involved  in  the  shallows,  not 
very  far  from  the  Pawnee  villages,  and  were  soon  surrounded 
by  a  swarm  of  the  inhabitants.  They  carried  off  everything 
that  they  considered  valuable,  including  most  of  the  robes  ; 
and  amused  themselves  by  tying  up  the  men  left  on  guard, 
and  soundly  whipping  them  with  sticks. 

We  encamped  that  night  upon  the  bank  of  the  river. 
Among  the  emigrants  there  was  an  overgrown  boy,  some 
eighteen  years  old,  with  a  head  as  round  and  about  as  large 
as  a  pumpkin,  and  fever-and-ague  fits  had  dyed  his  face  of  a 
corresponding  color.  He  wore  an  old  white  hat,  tied  under 
his  chin  with  a  handkerchief  ;  his  body  was  short  and  stout, 
but  his  legs  of  disproportioned  and  appalling  length.  I 
observed  him  at  sunset,  breasting  the  hill  with  giaantic  strides, 
and  standing  against  the  sky  on  the  summit,  like  a  colossal 
pair  of  tongs.  In  a  moment  after  we  heard  him  screaming 
frantically  behind  the  ridge,  and  nothing  doubting  that  he 
was  in  the  clutches  of  Indians  or  grizzly  bears,  some  of  the 
party  caught  up  their  rifles  and  ran  to  tlie  rescue.  His  out- 
cries, however.  ])r()ve(l  but  an  ebullition  of  joyous  excitement ; 
lie  had  chased  two  little  wolf  pups  to  their  burrow,  and  li© 


64  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

was  on  his  knees,  grubbing  away  like  a  dog  at  the  mouth  of 
the  hole,  to  get  at  them. 

Before  morning  he  caused  more  serious  disquiet  in  the 
camp.  It  was  his  turn  to  hold  the  middle  guard  ;  but  no 
sooner  was  he  called  up,  than  he  coolly  arranged  a  pair  of 
saddle-bags  under  a  wagon,  laid  his  head  upon  them,  closed 
his  eyes,  opened  his  moutli,  and  fell  asleep.  The  guard  on 
our  side  of  the  camp,  thinking  it  no  part  of  his  duty  to  look 
after  the  cattle  of  the  emigrants,  contented  himself  witii 
watc*hingour  own  horses  and  mules  ;  the  wolves,  he  said,  were 
unusually  iioisy  ;  but  still  no  mischief  was  anticipated  until 
the  sun  rose,  and  not  a  hoof  or  horn  was  in  sight !  The  cattle 
were  gone  !  While  Tom  was  quietly  slumbering,  the  wolves 
had  driven  them  away. 

Then  we  reaped  the  fruits  of  R.'s  precious  plan  of  traveling 
in  company  with  emigrants.  To  leave  them  m  their  distress 
was  not  to  be  thought  of,  and  we  felt  bound  to  wait  until  the 
cattle  could  be  searched  for,  and,  if  possible,  recovered.  But 
the  reader  may  be  curious  to  know  wHiat  punishment  aw^aited 
the  faithless  Tom.  By  the  wholesome  law  of  the  prairie, 
he  who  falls  asleep  on  guard  is  condemned  to  walk  all  day, 
leading  his  horse  by  the  bridle,  and  we  found  much  fault  with 
our  companions  for  not  enforcing  such  a  sentence  on  the 
offender.  Nevertiieless,  had  he  been  of  our  own  part}', 
I  have  no  doubt  he  would  in  like  manner  have  escaped 
scot-free.  But  the  emigrants  went  farther  than  mere  for- 
bearance :  they  decreed  that  since  Tom  couldn't  stand 
guard  witliout  falling  asleep,  he  shouldn't  stand  guard  at  all, 
and  henceforward  iiis  slumbers  were  unbroken.  Estab- 
lishing such  a  premium  on  drowsiness  could  have  no  very 
beneficial  effect  upon  the  vigilance  of  our  sentinels ;  for 
it  is  far  from  agreeable,  after  riding  from  sunrise  to  sunset, 
to  feel  your  slumbers  interrupted  by  the  butt  of  a  rifle 
nudging  your  side,  and  a  sleep}^  voice  growling  in  your  ear 
that  you  must  get  up,  to  shiver  and  freeze  for  three  wear}^ 
hours  at  midnight. 

"  Buffalo  !  buffalo  !  "  It  was  but  a  grim  old  bull,  roaming 
the  prairie  by  himself  in  misanthropic  seclusion  ;  but  there 
might  be  more  behind  the  hills.  Dreading  tlie  monotony 
and  languor  of  the  camp,  Shaw  and  I  saddled  our  horses, 
buckled  our  holsters  in  their  places,  and  set  out  with  Henry 
Chatillon  in  search  of  the  game.  Henr}^  not  intending  to  take 
part  in  the  chase,  but  merely''  conducting  us,  carried  liis  rifle 
^vith  him,  while  we  left  ours  behind  as  incumbrances,     We 


THE  CALIFORJVTA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  65 

rode  for  some  five  or  six  miles,  and  saw  no  living  thing  but 
wolves,  snakes,  and  prairie  dogs. 

"This  won't  do  at  all,"  said  Shaw. 

"  What  won't  do  ?  " 

"  There's  no  wood  about  here  to  make  a  litter  for  the 
wounded  man  ;  I  have  an  idea  that  one  of  us  will  need  some- 
thing of  the  sort  before  the  day  is  over." 

There  Avas  some  foundationfor  such  an  apprehension,  for 
the  ground  was  none  of  the  best  for  a  race,  and  grew  worse 
continually  as  we  proceeded  ;  indeed  it  soon  became  desperately 
bad,  consisting  of  abrui)t  hills  and  deep  hollows,  cut  by  fre- 
quent ravines  not  easy  to  pass.  At  length,  a  mile  in  advance, 
we  saw  a  band  of  bulls.  Some  were  scattered  grazing  over  a 
green  declivity,  while  the  rest  were  crowded  more  densely 
together  in  the  wide  hollow  below.  Making  a  circuit  to 
keep  out  of  sight,  we  rode  toward  them  until  we  ascended  a 
hill  within  a  furlong  of  them,  beyond  which  nothing  inter- 
vened that  could  possibly  screen  us  from  their  view.  We  dis- 
mounted behind  the  ridge  just  out  of  sight,  drew  our  saddle- 
girths,  examined  our  pistols,  and  mounting  again  rode  over  the 
hill,  and  descended  at  a  canter  toward  them,  bending  close  to 
our  horses'  necks.  Instantly  they  took  the  alarm  ;  those  on  the 
hill  descended  ;  those  below  gathered  into  a  mass,  and  the  whole 
got  in  motion,  shouldering  each  other  along  at  a  clumsy  gallop. 
We  followed,  spurring  our  horses  to  full  speed  ;  and  as  the 
herd  rushed,  crowding  and  trampling  in  terror  through  an 
opening  in  the  hills,  we  were  close  at  their  heels,  half  suffocated 
by  the  clouds  of  dust.  But  as  we  drew  near,  their  alarm  and 
speed  increased  ;  our  horses  showed  signs  of  the  utmost  fear, 
bounding  violently  aside  as  we  approached,  and  refusing  to 
enter  among  the  herd.  The  buffalo  now  broke  into  several 
small  bodies,  scampering  over  the  hills  in  different  directions, 
and  I  lost  sight  of  Sliaw  ;  neither  of  us  knew  where  the  other 
had  gone.  Old  Pontiac  ran  like  a  frantic  elephant  up  hill  and 
down  hill,  his  ponderous  hoofs  striking  the  prairie  like  sledge- 
hannners.  ITe  showed  a  curious  mixture  of  eagerness  and 
terror,  straining  to  overtake  the  panic-stricken  herd,  but  con- 
stantly recoiling  in  dismay  as  we  drew  near.  The  fugitives, 
indeed,  offered  no  very  attractive  spectacle,  with  their  enormous 
size  and  weight,  their  shaggy  manes  and  the  tattered  remnants 
of  theirlast  winter's  hair  covering  their  backs  in  irregular  shreds 
and  patches,  and  flying  off  in  the  wind  as  they  ran.  At  length 
I  urged  my  horse  close  behind  a  bull,  and  after  tiying  in  vain, 
by  blows  and  spurring,  to  bring  him  alongside,*!  shot  a  bullet 


66  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

into  the  buffalo  from  this  disadvantageous  position.  At  the 
report,  Pontiac  swerved  so  much  that  I  was  again  thrown  a 
little  behind  the  game.  The  bullet,  entering  too  much  in  the 
rear,  failed  to  disable  the  bull,  for  a  buffalo  requires  to  be  shot 
at  particular  points,  or  he  will  certainly  escape.  The  herd  ran 
up  a  hill,  and  I  followed  in  pursuit.  As  Pontiac  rushed  head- 
long down  on  the  other  side,  I  saw  Shaw  and  Henry  descending 
the  hollow  on  the  right,  at  a  leisurely  gallop  ;  and  in  front,  the 
buffalo  were  just  disappearing  behind  tlie  crest  of  the  next  hill, 
their  short  tails  erect,  and  their  hoofs  twinkling  through  a 
cloud  of  dust. 

At  that  moment,  I  heard  Shaw  and  Henry  shouting  to  me  ; 
but  the  muscles  of' a  stronger  arm  than  mine  CQuld  not  have 
checked  at  once  the  furious  course  of  Pontiac,  whose  mouth 
was  as  insensible  as  leather.  Added  to  this,  I  rode  him  that 
morning  with  a  common  snaffle,  having  the  day  before,  for  the 
benefit  of  my  other  horse,  unbuckled  from  my  bridle  the  curb 
which  I  ordinarily  used.  A  stronger  and  hardier  brute  never 
trod  the  prairie  ;  but  the  novel  sight  of  the  buffalo  filled  him 
with  terror,  and  when  at  full  speed  he  w^as  almost  incontrol- 
able.  Gaining  the  top  of  the  ridge,  I  saw  nothing  of  the 
buffalo  ;  they  had  all  vanished  amid  the  intricacies  of  the  hills 
and  hollows.  Reloading  my  pistols,  in  the  best  way  I  could, 
I  galloped  on  until  I  saw  them  again  scuttling  along  at  the 
base  of  the  hill,  their  panic  somewhat  abated.  Down  w^ent  old 
Pontiac  among  them,  scattering  them  to  the  right  and  left, 
and  then  we  had  another  long  chase.  About  a  dozen  bulls 
were  before  us,  scouring  over  the  hills,  rushing  down  the 
declivities  with  tremendous  weight  and  impetuosity,  and  then 
laboring  with  a  weary  gallop  upward.  Still  Pontiac,  in  spite 
of  spurring  and  beating,  would  not  close  with  them.  •  One  bull 
at  length  fell  a  little  behind  the  rest,  and  by  dint  of  much 
effort  I  urged  my  horse  within  six  or  eight  yards  of  his  side. 
His  back  was  darkened  with  sweat  ;  he  was  panting  heavily, 
while  his  tongue  lolled  out  a  foot  from  his  jaws.  Gradually 
I  came  up  abreast  of  him,  urging  Pontiac  with  leg  and  rein 
nearer  to  his  side,  when  suddenly  he  did  what  buffalo  in  such 
circumstances  will  always  do  ;  he  slackened  his  gallop,  and 
turning  toward  us,  with  an  aspect  of  mingled  rage  and  dis- 
tress, lowered  his  huge  shaggy  head  for  a  charge.  Pontiac, 
with  a  snort,  leaped  aside  in  terror,  nearly  throwing  me  to  the 
ground,  as  I  was  wholly  unprepared  for  such  an  evolution.  I 
raised  my  pistol  in  a  passion  to  strike  him  on  the  head,  but 
thinking  better  of  it,  fired  the  bullet  after  the  bull,  who  had 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  67 

resumed  his  flight;  then  drew  rein,  and  determined  to  rejoin 
my  companions.  It  was  high  time.  The  breath  blew  hard 
from  Pontiac's  nostrils,  and  the  sweat  rolled  in  big  drops 
down  his  sides  ;  I  myself  felt  as  if  drenched  in  warm  water. 
Pledging  myself  (and  I  redeemed  the  pledge)  to  take  my  re- 
venge at  a  future  opportunity,  I  looked  round  for  some  indica- 
tions to  show  me  where  I  was,  and  what  course  I  ought  to 
pursue  ;  I  migiit  as  well  have  looked  for  landmarks  in  the 
midst  of  the  ocean.  How  many  miles  I  had  run,  or  in  what 
direction,  I  had  no  idea  ;  and  around  me  the  prairie  was  roll- 
ing in  steep  swells  and  pitches,  without  a  single  distinctive 
feature  to  guide  me.  1  had  a  little  compass  hung  at  my 
neck  ;  and  ignorant  that  the  Platte  at  this  point  diverged 
considerably  from  its  easterly  course,  I  thought  that  by  keep- 
ing to  the  northward  I  should  certainly  reach  it.  So  I  turned 
and  rode  about  two  hours  in  that  direction.  The  prairie 
changed  as  I  advanced,  softening  away  into  easier  undulations, 
but  nothing  like  the  Platte  appeared,  nor  any  sign  of  a  human 
being ;  the  same  wild  endless  expanse  lay  around  me  still  ; 
and  to  all  appearance  I  was  as  far  from  my  object  as  ever.  I 
began  now  to  consider  myself  in  danger  of  being  lost  ;  and 
therefore,  reining  in  my  horse,  summoned  the  scanty  share  of 
woodcraft  that  I  possessed  (if  that  term  be  applicable  upon 
the  prairie)  to  extricate  me.  Looking  round,  it  occurred  to  me 
tiiat  tlie  buffalo  might  prove  my  best  guides.  I  soon  found 
one  of  the  paths  made  by  tliem  in  their  passage  to  the  river  ; 
it  ran  nearly  at  right  angles  to  my  course  ;  but  turning  my 
horse's  head  in  the  direction  it  indicated,  his  freer  gait  and 
erected  ears  assured  me  that  I  was  right. 

But  in  the  meantime  my  ride  had  been  by  no  means  a  soli- 
tary one.  The  whole  face  of  the  country  was  dotted  far  and 
wide  witli  countless  hundreds  of  buffalo.  They  trooped  along 
in  files  and  columns,  bulls,  cows,  and  calves,  on  the  green  faces 
of  the  declivities  in  front.  They  scrambled  away  over  the 
hills  to  the  rio^lit  and  left  ;  and  far  off,  the  pale  blue  swells  in 
the  extreme  distance  were  dotted  with  innumerable  specks. 
Sometimes  I  surprised  shaggy  old  bulls  grazing  alone,  or 
sleeping  behind  the  ridges  I  ascended.  They  would  leap  up 
at  my  approach,  stare  stupidly  at  me  through  their  tangled 
manes,  and  then  gallop  heavily  away.  The  antelope  were 
very  numerous  ;  and  as  they  are  always  bold  when  in  the 
neigliborhood  of  bnffalo,  they  would  approach  quite  near  to 
look  at  me,  gazing  intently  with  their  great  round  eyes,  then 
suddenly  leap  aside,  and  stretch  lightly  away  over  the  prairie, 


68  TEE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OitEGON  TBAIL. 

as  swiftly  as  a  racehorse.  Squalid,  ruffianlike  wolves  sneaked 
through  the  hollows  and  sandy  ravines.  Several  times  I 
passed  through  villages  of  prairie  dogs,  who  sat,  each  at  the 
mouth  of  his  burrow,  holding  his  paws  before  him  in  a  sup- 
plicating attitude,  and  yelping  away  most  vehemently,  ener- 
getically whisking  his  little  tail  with  every  squeaking  cry  he 
uttered.  Prairie  dogs  are  not  fastidious  in  tlieir  choice  of 
companions ;  various  long,  checkered  snakes  were  sunning 
themselves  in  the  midst  of  the  village,  and  demure  little  gray 
owls,  with  a  large  white  ring  around  each  eye,  were  perched 
side  by  side  with  the  rightful  inhabitants.  The  prairie  teemed 
with  life.  Again  and  again  I  looked  toward  the  crowded  hill- 
sides, and  was  sure  I  saw  horsemen  ;  and  riding  near,  with  a 
mixture  of  hope  and  dread,  for  Indians  were  abroad,  I  found 
them  transformed  into  a  group  of  buffalo.  There  was  nothing 
in  human  shape  amid  all  this  vast  congregation  of  brute 
forms. 

When  I  turned  down  the  buffalo  path,  the  prairie  seemed 
changed  ;  only  a  wolf  or  two  glided  past  at  intervals,  like 
conscious  felons,  never  looking  to  the  right  or  left.  Being 
now  free  from  anxiety,  I  was  at  leisure  to  observe  minutely 
the  objects  around  me ;  and  here,  for  the  first  time,  I  noticed 
insects  wholly  different  from  any  of  the  varieties  found 
farther  to  the  eastward.  Gaudy  butterflies  fluttered  about 
my  horse's  head  ;  strangely  formed  beetles,  glittering  with 
metallic  luster,  were  crawling  upon  plants  that  I  had  never 
seen  before  ;  multitudes  of  lizards,  too,  were  darting  like 
lightning  over  the  sand. 

I  had  run  to  a  great  distance  from  the  river.  It  cost  me  a 
long  ride  on  the  buffalo  path  before  I  saw  from  the  ridge  of 
a  sand-hill  the  pale  surface  of  the  Platte  glistening  in  the 
midst  of  its  desert  valleys,  and  the  faint  outline  of  the  hills 
beyond  waving  along  the  sky.  From  where  I  stood,  not  a 
tree  nor  a  bush  nor  a  living  thing  was  visible  throughout  the 
whole  extent  of  the  sun-scorched  landscape.  In  half  an  liour 
I  came  upon  the  trail,  not  far  from  the  river  ;  and  seeing  that 
the  party  had  not  yet  passed,  I  turned  eastward  to  meet  them, 
old  Pontiac's  long  swinging  trot  again  assuring  me  that  I  was 
right  in  doing  so.  Having  been  slightly  ill  on  leaving  camp 
in  the  morning,  six  or  seven  hours  of  rough  riding  had  fatigued 
me  extremely.  I  soon  stopped,  therefore  ;  flung  my  saddle  on 
the  ground,  and  with  my  head  resting  on  it,  and  my  horse's 
trail-rope  tied  loosely  to  my  arm,  lay  waiting  the  arrival  of 
the  party,  speculating  meanwhile  on  the  extent  of  the  injuries 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  60 

Pontiac  had  received.  At  length  the  white  wagon  coverings 
rose  from  the  verge  of  the  plain.  By  a  singular  coincidence, 
almost  at  the  same  moment  two  horsemen  appeared  coming 
down  from  the  hills.  They  were  Shav/  and  Ilenr^',  who  had 
searched  for  me  a  while  in  the  morning,  but  well  knowing  the 
futility  of  the  attempt  in  such  a  broken  country,  had  placed 
themselves  on  the  top  of  the  highest  hill  they  could  find,  and 
picketing  their  horses  near  them,  as  a  signal  to  me,  had  laid 
down  and  fallen  asleep.  The  stray  cattle  had  been  recovered, 
as  the  emigrants  told  us,  about  noon.  Before  sunset,  we  pushed 
forward  eight  miles  farther. 

June  7, 1846. — Four  men  are  missing  ;  R.,  Sorel,  and  two  emigrants. 
They  set  out  this  morning  after  buffaTo,  and  have  not  yet  made  their 
appearance  ;  whether  killed  or  lost,  we  cannot  tell. 

I  find  the  above  in  my  notebook,  and  well  remember  the 
council  held  on  the  occasion.  Our  fire  was  the  scene  of  it  ; 
for  the  palpable  superiority  of  Henry  Chatillon's  experience 
and  skill  made  him  the  resort  of  the  whole  camp  upon  every 
question  of  difficulty.  He  was  molding  bullets  at  the  fire, 
when  the  captain  drew  near,  with  a  perturbed  and  care-worn 
expression  of  countenance,  faithfully  reflected  on  the  heavy 
features  of  Jack,  who  followed  close  behind.  Then  emigrants 
came  straggling  from  their  wagons  toward  the  common  cen- 
ter ;  various  suggestions  were  made  to  account  for  the  absence 
of  the  four  men,  and  one  or  two  of  the  emigrants  declared  tliat 
when  out  after  the  cattle  they  had  seen  Indians  dogging 
them,  and  crawling  like  wolves  along  the  ridges  of  the  hills. 
At  this  the  captain  slowl}^  shook  his  head  with  double  gravity, 
and  solemnly  remarked  : 

"  It's  a  serious  thing  to  be  traveling  through  this  cursed 
wilderness  ;  "  an  opinion  in  which  Jack  immediately  expressed 
a  thorough  coincidence.  Henry  would  not  commit  himself 
by  declaring  any  positive  opinion  : 

"  Maybe  lie  only  follow  the  buffalo  too  far  ;  maybe  Indian 
kill  him  ;  maybe  he  got  lost  ;  I  cannot  tell  !  " 

With  this  the  auditors  were  obliged  to  rest  content  ;  the 
emigrants,  not  in  the  least  alarmed,  though  curious  to  know 
what  had  become  of  their  comrades,  walked  back  to  their 
wagons,  and  the  captain  betook  himself  pensively  to  his  tent. 
Shaw  and  I  followed  his  example. 

"  It  will  be  a  bad  thing  for  our  plans,"  said  he  as  we  entered, 
"  if  these  fellows  don't  get  back  safe.  The  captain  is  as 
helpless    on    the     prairie    as    a    child.     We  shall    have    to 


^0  THE  GALIFOBNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

take  him  and  his  brother  in  tow  ;  they  will  hang  on  us  like 
lead." 

"  The  prairie  is  a  strange  place,"  said  I,  "  A  month  ago  I 
should  have  thought  it  rather  ^  startling  affair  to  have  an 
acquaintance  ride  out  in  the  morning  and  lose  his  scalp  before 
night,  but  here  it  seems  the  most  natural  thing  in  the  world  ; 
not  that  I  believe  that  R.  has  lost  his  yet." 

If  a  man  is  constitutionally  liable  to  nervous  apprehen- 
sions, a  tour  on  the  distant  prairies  would  prove  the  best 
prescription  ;  for  though  when  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  he  may  at  times  find  himself  placed  in 
circumstances  of  some  danger,  I  believe  that  few  ever 
breathe  that  reckless  atmosphere  without  becoming  almost 
indifferent  to  any  evil  chance  that  may  befall  themselves  or 
their  friends. 

Shaw  had  a  propensity  for  luxurious  indulgence.  He  spread 
his  blanket  with  the  utmost  accuracy  on  the  ground,  picked  up 
the  sticks  and  stones  that  he  thought  might  interfere  with  his 
comfort,  adjusted  his  saddle  to  serve  as  a  pillow,  and  composed 
himself  for  his  night's  rest.  I  had  the  first  guard  that  evening  ; 
so,  taking  my  rifle,  I  went  out  of  tlie  tent.  It  was  perfectly 
dark.  A  brisk  wind  blew  down  from  the  hills,  and  the  sparks 
from  the  fire  were  streaming  over  the  j^rairie.  One  of  the 
emigrants,  named  Morton,  was  my  companion  ;  and  laying  our 
rifles  on  the  grass,  we  sat  down  together  by  the  fire.  Morton 
was  a  Kentuckian,  an  athletic  fellow,  with  a  tine  intelligent 
face,  and  in  his  manners  and  conversation  he  showed  the 
essential  characteristics  of  a  gentleman.  Our  conversation 
turned  on  the  pioneers  of  his  gallant  native  State.  The  three 
hours  of  our  watch  dragged  away  at  last,  and  we  went  to  call 
up  the  relief. 

R.'s  guard  succeeded  mine.  He  was  absent  ;  but  the 
captain,  anxious  lest  the  camp  should  be  left  defenseless,  had 
volunteered  \o  stand  in  his  place  ;  so  I  went  to  wake  him  up. 
There  was  no  occasion  for  it,  for  the  captain  had  been  awake 
since  nightfall.  A  fire  was  blazing  outside  of  the  tent,  and  by 
the  light  which  struck  through  the  canvas,  I  saw  him  and  Jack 
lying  on  tlieir  backs,  with  their  e3^es  wide  open.  The  captain 
responded  instantly  to  my  call  ;  he  jumped  up,  seized  the 
double-barreled  rifle,  and  came  out  of  the  tent  with  an  air  of 
solemn  determination,  as  if  about  to  devote  himself  to  the 
safety  of  the  part}^  I  went  and  lay  down,  not  doubting  that 
for  the  next  three  hours  our  slumbers  would  be  guarded  with 
sufficient  vigilance. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  71 

CHAPTER   VIII. 

TAKING  FRENCH  LEAVE. 

Parting  is  such  sweet  sorrow  I 

Romeo  and  Juliet. 

On  the  8th  of  June,  at  eleven  o'clock,  we  reached  the 
South  Fork  of  the  Platte,  at  the  usual  fording  place.  For 
league  upon  league  the  desert  uniformity  of  the  prospect  was 
almost  unbroken;  the  hills  were  dotted  with  little  tufts  of 
shriveled  grass,  but  betwixt  these  the  white  sand  was  glaring 
in  the  sun ;  and  the  channel  of  the  river,  almost  on  a  level  with 
the  plain,  was  but  one  great  sand-bed,  about  half  a  mile  wide. 
It  was  covered  with  water,  but  so  scantily  that  the  bottom 
was  scarcely  hidden;  for,  wide  as  it  is,  the  average  depth  of 
the  Platte  does  not  at  this  point  exceed  a  foot  and  a  half. 
Stopping  near  its  bank,  we  gathered  bois  de  vache^  and  made 
a  meal  of  buffalo  meat.  Far  off,  on  the  other  side,  was  a 
green  meadow,  where  we  could  see  the  white  tents  and 
wagons  of  an  emigrant  camp;  and  just  opposite  to  us  we 
could  discern  a  group  of  men  and  animals  at  the  water's 
edge.  Four  or  five  horsemen  soon  entered  the  river,  and  in 
ten  minutes  had  waded  across  and  clambered  up  the  loose 
sand-bank.  They  were  ill-looking  fellows,  thin  and  swarthy, 
with  care-worn  anxious  faces  and  lips  rigidly  compressed. 
They  had  good  cause  for  anxiety;  it  was  three  days  since 
they  first  encamped  here,  and  on  the  night  of  their  arrival 
they  had  lost  123  of  their  best  cattle,  driven  off  by  the  wolves, 
through  the  neglect  of  the  man  on  guard.  This  discouraging 
and  alarming  calamity  was  not  the  first  that  had  overtaken 
them.  Since  leaving  the  settlements,  they  had  met  with 
nothing  but  misfortune.  Some  of  their  party  had  died; 
one  man  had  been  killed  by  the  Pawnees;  and  about  a  week 
before,  they  had  been  plundered  by  the  Dakotas  of  all  their 
best  horses,  the  wretched  animals  on  which  our  visitors  were 
mounted  being  the  only  ones  that  were  left.  They  had 
encamped,  they  told  us,  near  sunset,  by  the  side  of  the  Platte, 
and  their  oxen  were  scattered  over  the  meadow,  while  the 
band  of  horses  were  feeding  a  little  farther  off.  Suddenly 
the  ridges  of  the  hills  were  alive  with  a  swarm  of  mounted 
Indians,  at  least  six  hundred  in  number,  who,  with  a  tre- 
mendous yell,  came  pouring  down  toward  the  camp,  rushing 
up  within  a  few  rods,  to  the  great  terror  of  the  emigrants; 


72  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

but  suddenly  wheeling,  they  swept  around  the  band  of  horses, 
and  in  five  minutes  had  disappeared  with  their  prey  through 
the  openings  of  the  hills. 

As  these  emigrants  were  telling  their  story,  we  saw  four 
other  men  approaching.  They  proved  to  be  R.  and  his 
companions,  who  had  encountered  no  mischance  of  any  kind, 
but  had  only  wandered  too  far  in  pursuit  of  the  game.  They 
said  they  had  seen  no  Indians,  but  only  '* millions  of  buffalo;" 
and  both  R.  and  Sorel  had  meat  dangling  behind  ^  their 
saddles. 

The  emigrants  re-crossed  the  river,  and  we  prepared  to 
follow.  First  the  heavy  ox-wagons  plunged  down  the  bank, 
and  dragged  slowly  over  the  sand-beds;  sometimes  the  hoofs 
of  the  oxen  were  scarcely  wetted  by  the  thin  sheet  of  water; 
and  the  next  moment  the  river  would  be  boiling  against  their 
sides,  and  eddying  fiercely  around  the  wheels.  Inch  by  inch 
they  receded  from  the  shore,  dwindling  every  moment,  until 
at  length  they  seemed  to  be  floating  far  in  the  very  middle  of 
the  river.  A  more  critical  experiment  awaited  us;  for  our 
little  mule-cart  was  but  ill-fitted  for  the  passage  of  so  swift  a 
stream.  We  watched  it  with  anxiety  till  it  seemed  to  be  a 
little  motionless  white  speck  in  the  midst  of  the  waters;  and 
it  was  motionless,  for  it  had  stuck  fast  in  a  quicksand.  The 
little  mules  were  losing  their  footing,  the  wheels  were  sinking 
deeper  and  deeper,  and  the  water  began  to  rise,  through  the 
bottom  and  drench  the  goods  within.  All  of  us  who  had 
remained  on  the  hither  bank  galloped  to  the  rescue;  the  men 
jumped  into  the  water,  adding  their  strength  to  that  of  the 
mules,  until  by  much  effort  the  cart  was  extricated,  and  con- 
veyed in  safety  across. 

As  we  gained  the  other  bank,  a  rough  group  of  men  sur- 
rounded us.  They  were  not  robust,  nor  large  of  frame,  yet 
they  had  an  aspect  of  hardy  endurance.  Finding  at  home  no 
scope  for  their  fiery  energies,  they  had  betaken  themselves 
to  the  prairie;  and  in  them  seemed  to  be  revived,  with 
redoubled  force,  that  fierce  spirit  which  impelled  their  ances- 
tors, scarce  more  lawless  than  themselves,  from  the  German 
forests,  to  inundate  Europe  and  break  to  pieces  the  Roman 
empire.  A  fortnight  afterward  this  unfortunate  party  passed 
Fort  Laramie,  while  we  were  there.  Not  one  of  their  miss- 
ing oxen  had  been  recovered,  though  they  had  remained 
encamped  a  week  in  search  of  them;  and  they  had  been  com- 
pelled to  abandon  a  great  part  of  their  baggage  and  pro- 
visions, and  yoke  cows  and  heifers  to  their  wagons  to  carry 


TBE  OALTFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  n 

them  forward  upon  their  journey,  the  most  toilsome  and  haz- 
ardous part  of  which  lay  still  before  them. 

It  is  worth  noticing  that  on  the  Platte  one  may  sometimes 
see  the  shattered  wrecks  of  ancient  claw-footed  tables,  well 
waxed  and  rubbed,  or  massive  bureaus  of  carved  oak.  These, 
many  of  them  no  doubt  the  relics  of  ancestral  prosperity  in 
the  colonial  time,  must  have  encountered  strange  viscissitudes. 
Imported,  perhaps,  originally  from  England;  then,  with  the 
declining  fortunes  of  their  owners,  borne  across  the  Alle- 
ghenies  to  the  remote  wilderness  of  Ohio  or  Kentucky;  then 
to  Illinois  or  Missouri;  and  now  at  last  fondly  stowed  away 
in  the  family  wagon  for  the  interminable  journey  to  Oregon. 
But  the  stern  privations  of  the  way  are  little  anticipated. 
The  cherished  relic  is  soon  flung  out  to  scorch  and  crack  upon 
the  hot  prairie. 

We  resumed  our  journey;  but  we  had  gone  scarcely  a  mile, 
when  R.  called  out  from  the  rear: 

'*  We'll  camp  here." 

'*  Why  do  you  want  to  camp?  Look  at  the  sun.  It  is  not 
three  o'clock  yet." 

'*  We'll  camp  here!" 

This  was  the  only  reply  vouchsafed.  Delorier  was  in 
advance  with  his  cart.  Seeing  the  mule-wagon  wheeling  from 
the  track,  he  began  to  turn  his  own  team  in  the  same  direction. 

'*  Go  on,  Delorier,"  and  the  little  cart  advanced  again.  As 
we  rode  on,  we  soon  heard  the  wagon  of  our  confederates 
creaking  and  jolting  on  behind  us,  and  the  driver,  Wright, 
discharging  a  furious  volley  of  oaths  against  his  mules;  no 
doubt  venting  upon  them  the  wrath  which  he  dared  not  direct 
against  a  more  appropriate  object. 

Something  of  this  sort  had  frequently  occurred.  Our 
English  friend  was  by  no  means  partial  to  us,  and  we  thought 
we  discovered  in  his  conduct  a  deliberate  intention  to  thwart 
and  annoy  us,  especially  by  retarding  the  movements  of  the 
party,  which  he  knew  that  we,  being  Yankees,  were  anxious 
to  quicken.  Therefore  he  would  insist  on  encamping  at  all 
unseasonable  hours,  saying  that  fifteen  miles  was  a  sufficient 
day's  journey.  Finding  onr  wishes  systematically  disre- 
garded, we  took  the  direction  of  aifairs  into  our  own  hands. 
Keeping  always  in  advance,  to  the  inexpressible  indignation 
of  R.,  we  encamped  at  what  time  and  place  we  thought 
proper,  not  much  caring  whether  the  rest  chose  to  follow  or 
not.  They  always  did  so,  however,  pitching  their  tents  near 
ours,  with  sullen  and  wrathful  countenances. 


T4  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

Traveling  together  on  these  agreeable  terms  did  not  suit  our 
tastes;  for  some  time  we  had  meditated  a  separation.  The 
connection  with  this  party  had  cost  us  various  delays  and 
inconveniences;  and  the  glaring  want  of  courtesy  and  good 
sense  displayed  by  their  virtual  leader  did  not  dispose  us  to 
bear  these  annoyances  with  much  patience.  We  resolved  to 
leave  camp  early  in  the  morning,  and  push  forward  as  rapidl}^ 
as  possible  for  Fort  Laramie,  which  we  hoped  to  reach,  by 
hard  traveling,  in  four  or  five  days.  The  captain  soon  trotted 
up  between  us,  and  we  explained  our  intentions. 

'*A  very  extraordinary  proceeding,  upon  my  word!"  he 
remarked.  Then  he  began  to  enlarge  upon  the  enormity  of 
the  design.  The  most  prominent  impression  in  his  mind 
evidently  was  that  we  were  acting  a  base  and  treacherous 
part  in  deserting  his  party,  in  what  he  considered  a  very 
dangerous  stage  of  the  journey.  To  palliate  the  atrocity  of 
our  conduct,  we  ventured  to  suggest  that  we  were  only  four 
in  number  while  his  party  still  included  sixteen  men;  and 
as,  moreover,  we  were  to  go  forward  and  they  were  to  follow, 
at  least  a  full  proportion  of  the  perils  he  apprehended  would 
fall  upon  us.  But  the  austerity  of  the  captain's  features 
would  not  relax.  *'A  very  extraordinary  proceeding,  gentle- 
men!" and  repeating  this,  he  rode  off  to  confer  with  his 
principal. 

By  good  luck,  we  found  a  meadow  of  fresh  grass,  and  a 
large  pool  of  rain-water  in  the  midst  of  it.  We  encamped 
here  at  sunset.  Plenty  of  buffalo  skulls  were  lying  around, 
bleaching  in  the  sun;  and  sprinkled  thickly  among  the  grass 
was  a  great  variety  of  strange  flowers.  I  had  nothing  else  to 
do,  and  so  gathering  a  handful,  I  sat  down  on  a  buffalo  skull  to 
study  them.  Although  the  offspring  of  a  wilderness,  their 
texture  was  frail  and  delicate,  and  their  colors  extremely  rich; 
pure  white,  dark  blue,  and  a  transparent  crimson.  One 
traveling  in  this  country  seldom  has  leisure  to  tttink  of  any- 
thing but  the  stern  features  of  the  scenery  and  its  accompani- 
ments, or  the  practical  details  of  each  day's  journe}''.  Like 
them,  he  and  his  thoughts  grow  hard  and  rough.  But  now 
these  flowers  suddenly  awakened  a  train  of  associations  as 
alien  to  the  rude  scene  around  me  as  they  were  themselves; 
and  for  the  moment  my  thoughts  went  back  to  New  England. 
A  throng  of  fair  and  well-remembered  faces  rose,  vividly  as 
life,  before  me.  '^  There  are  good  things,"  thought  I,  'Mn  the 
savage  life,  but  what  can  it  offer  to  replace  those  powerful- 
and  ennobling  influences  that  can  reach    unimpaired    over 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  16 

more  than  three  thousand  miles  of  mountains,  forests,  and 
'deserts?" 

Before  sunrise  on  the  next  morning  our  tent  was  down; 
we  harnessed  our  best  horses  to  the  cart  and  left  the  camp. 
But  first  we  shook  hands  with  our  friends  the  emigrants,  who 
sincerely  wished  us  a  safe  journey,  though  some  others  of  the 
party  might  easily  have  been  consoled  had  we  encountered  an 
Indian  war  party  on  the  way.  The  captain  and  his  brother 
were  standing  on  the  top  of  a  hill,  wrapped  in  their  plaids, 
like  spirits  of  the  mist,  keeping  an  anxious  eye  on  the  band 
of  horses  below.  We  waved  adieu  to  them  as  we  rode  off 
the  ground.  The  captain  replied  with  a  salutation  of  the 
utmost  dignity,  which  Jack  tried  to  imitate;  but  being  little 
practiced  in  the  gestures  of  polite  society,  his  effort  was 
not  a  very  successful  one. 

In  five  minutes  we  had  gained  the  foot  of  the  hills,  but 
here  we  came  to  a  stop.  Old  Hendrick  was  in  the  shafts,  and 
being  the  very  incarnation  of  perverse  and  brutish  obstinacy, 
he  utterly  refused  to  move.  Delorier  lashed  and  swore  till 
he  was  tired,  but  Hendrick  stood  like  a  rock,  grumbling  to 
himself  and  looking  askance  at  his  enemy,  until  he  saw  a 
favorable  opportunity  to  take  his  revenge,  when  he  struck 
out  under  the  shaft  with  such  cool  malignity  of  intention 
that  Delorier  only  escaped  the  blow  by  a  sudden  skip  into 
the  air,  such  as  no  one  but  a  Frenchman  could  achieve. 
Shaw  and  he  then  joined  forces,  and  lashed  on  both  sides  at 
once.  The  brute  stood  still  for  a  while  till  he  could  feear  it 
no  longer,  when  all  at  once  he  began  to  kick  and  plunge  till 
he  threatened  the  utter  demolition  of  the  cart  and  harness. 
We  glanced  back  at  the  camp,  which  was  in  full  sight.  Our 
companions,  inspired  by  emulation,  were  leveling  their  tents 
and  driving  in  their  cattle  and  horses. 

"Take  the  horse  out,"  said  I. 

I  took  the'  saddle  from  Pontiac  and  put  it  upon  Hendrick; 
the  former  was  harnessed  to  the  cart  in  an  instant.  ^*  Ava7ice 
done/"  cried  Delorier.  Pontiac  strode  up  the  hill,  twitching 
the  little  cart  after  him  as  if  it  were  a  feather's  weight;  and 
though,  as  we  gained  the  top,  we  saw  the  wagons  of  our 
deserted  comrades  ju^t  getting  into  motion,  we  had  little  fear 
that  they  could  overtake  us.  Leaving  the  trail,  we  struck 
directly  across  the  country,  and  took  the  shortest  cut  to  reach 
the  main  stream  of  the  Platte.  A  deep  ravine  suddenly  inter- 
cepted us.  We  skirted  its  sides  until  we  found  them  less 
abrupt,  and  then  plunged  through  the  best  way  we  could. 


1Q  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

Passing  behind  the  sandy  ravines  called  "Ash  Hollow,"  we 
stopped  for  a  short  nooning  at  the  side  of  a  pool  of  rain-water; 
but  soon  resumed  our  journey,  and  some  hours  before  sunset 
were  desceVding  the  ravines  and  gorges  opening  downward 
upon  the  Platte  to  the  west  of  Ash  Hollow.  Our  horses 
waded  to  the  fetlock  in  sand;  the  sun  scorched  like  fire,  and 
the  air  swarmed  with  sand-flies  and  mosquitoes. 

At  last  we  gained  the  Platte.  Following  it  for  about  five 
miles,  we  saw,  just  as  the  sun  was  sinking,  a  great  meadow, 
dotted  with  hundreds  of  cattle,  and  beyond  them  an  emigrant 
encampment.  A  party  of  about  a  dozen  came  out  to  meet  us, 
looking  upon  us  at  first  with  cold  and  suspicious  faces.  See- 
ing four  men,  different  in  appearance  and  equipment  from 
themselves,  emerging  from  the  hills,  they  had  taken  us  for  the 
van  of  the  much  dreaded  Mormons,  whom  they  were  very 
apprehensive  of  encountering.  We  made  known  our  true 
character,  and  then  they  greeted  us  cordially.  They 
expressed  much  surprise  that  so  small  a  party  should  venture 
to  traverse  that  region,  though  in  fact  such  attempts  are  not 
unfrequently  made  by  trappers  and  Indian  traders.  We  rode 
with  them  to  their  camp.  The  wagons,  some  fifty  in  number, 
with  here  and  there  a  tent  intervening,  were  arranged  as 
usual  in  a  circle;  in  the  area  within  the  best  horses  were 
picketed,  and  the  Avhole  circumference  was  glowing  with  the 
dusky  light  of  the  fires,  displaying  the  forms  of  the  women 
and  children  who  were  crowded  around  them.  This  patri- 
archal scene  was  curious  and  striking  enough;  but  we  made 
our  escape  from  the  place  with  all  possible  dispatch,  being 
tormented  by  the  intrusive  curiosity  of  the  men  who  crowded 
around  us.  Yankee  curiosity  was  nothing  to  theirs.  They 
demanded  our  names,  where  we  came  from,  where  we  were 
going,  and  what  was  our  business.  The  last  query  was  par- 
ticularly embarrassing;  since  traveling  in  that  country,  or 
indeed  anywhere,  from  any  other  motive  than  gain,  was  an 
idea  of  which  they  took  no  cognizance.  Yet  they  were  fine- 
looking  fellows,  with  an  air  of  frankness,  generosity,  and  even 
courtesy,  having  come  from  one  of  the  least  barbarous  of  the 
frontier  counties. 

We  passed  about  a  mile  beyond  them,  and  encamped. 
Being  too  few  in  number  to  stand  guard  without  excessive 
fatigue,  we  extinguished  our  fire,  lest  it  should  attract  the 
notice  of  wandering  Indians;  and  picketing  our  horses  close 
around  us,  slept  undisturbed  till  morning.  For  three 
days  we  traveled  without  interruption,  and  on  the  evening 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL.  11 

of  the  third  encamped  by  the  well-known  spring  on  Scott's 
Bluff. 

Henry  Chatillon  and  I  rode  out  in  the  morning,  and 
descending  the  western  side  of  the  Bluff,  were  crossing  the 
plain  beyond.  Something  that  seemed  to  me  a  file  of  buffalo 
came  into  view,  descending  the  hills  several  miles  before  us. 
But  Henry  reined  in  his  horse,  and  keenly  peering  across  the 
prairie  with  a  better  and  more  practiced  eye,  soon  discovered 
its  real  nature.  "Indians!"  he  said.  " Old  Smoke's  lodges, 
I  b'lieve.  Come!  let  us  go!  Wah!  get  up,  now.  Five 
Hundred  Dollar!  "  And  laying  on  the  lash  with  good  will,  he 
galloped  forward,  and  I  rode  by  his  side.  Not  long  after, 
a  black  speck  became  visible  on  the  j^rairie,  full  two  miles  off. 
It  grew  larger  and  larger;  it  assumed  the  form  of  a  man  and 
horse;  and  soon  we  could  discern  a  naked  Indian,  careering 
at  full  gallop  toward  us.  When  within  a  furlong  he  wheeled 
his  horse  in  a  wide  circle,  and  made  him  describe  various 
mystic  figures  upon  the  prairie;  and  Henry  immediately  com- 
pelled Five  Hundred  Dollar  to  execute  similar  evolutions. 
"It  is  Old  Smoke's  village,"  said  he,  interpreting  these  sig- 
nals; "didn't  I  say  so?" 

As  the  Indian  approached  we  stopped  to  wait  for  him,  when 
suddenly  he  vanished,  sinking,  as  it  were,  into  the  earth.  He 
had  come  upon  one  of  the  deep  ravines  that  everywhere  inter- 
sect these  prairies.  In  an  instant  the  rough  head  of  his  horse 
stretched  upward  from  the  edge,  and  the  rider  and  steed  came 
scrambling  out,  and  bounded  up  to  us;  a  sudden  jerk  of  the 
rein  brought  the  wild  panting  horse  to  a  full  stop.  Then 
followed  the  needful  formality  of  shaking  hands.  I  forget 
our  visitor's  name.  He  was  a  young  fellow,  of  no  note  in  his 
nation  ;  yet  in  his  person  and  equipments  he  was  a  good  speci- 
men of  a  Dakota  warrior  in  his  ordinary  traveling  dress. 
Like  most  of  his  people,  he  was  nearly  six  feet  high;  lithely 
and  gracefully,  yet  strongly  proportioned;  and  with  a  skin 
singularly  clear  and  delicate.  He  wore  no  paint;  his  head 
was  bare;  and  his  long  hair  was  gathered  in  a  clump  behind, 
to  the  top  of  which  was  attached  transversely,  both  by  way  of 
ornament  and  of  talisman,  the  mystic  whistle,  made  of  the 
wingbone  of  the  war  eagle,  and  endowed  with  various  magic 
virtues.  From  the  back  of  his  head  descended  a  line  of  glit- 
tering brass  plates,  tapering  from  the  size  of  a  doubloon  to 
that  of  a  half  dime,  a  cumbrous  ornament,  in  high  vogue 
among  the  Dakotas,  and  for  which  they  pay  the  traders  a  most 
extravagant  price;  his  chest  and  arms  were  naked,  the  buffalo 


78  THE  CALIFORNIA   AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

robe,  worn  over  them  when  at  rest,  had  fallen  about  his  waist, 
and  was  confined  there  by  a  belt.  This,  with  the  gay  moc- 
casins on  his  feet,  completed  his  attire.  For  arms  he  carried 
a  quiver  of  dogskin  at  his  back,  and  a  rude  but  powerful  bow 
in  his  hand.  His  horse  had  no  bridle;  a  cord  of  hair,  lashed 
around  his  jaw,  served  in  place  of  one.  The  saddle  w^as  of  most 
singular  construction ;  it  was  made  of  wood  covered  with  raw 
hide,  and  both  pommel  and  cantle  rose  perpendicularly  full 
eighteen  inches,  so  that  the  warrior  was  wedged  firmly  in 
his  seat,  whence  nothing  could  dislodge  him  but  the  bursting 
of  the  girths. 

Advancing  with  our  new  companion,  we  found  more  of  his 
people  seated  in  a  circle  on  the  top  of  a  hill ;  while  a  rude 
procession  came  straggling  down  the  neighboring  hollow, 
men,  women,  and  children,  with  horses  dragging  the  lodge- 
poles  behind  them.  All  that  morning,  as  we  moved  forward, 
tall  savages  were  stalking  silently  about  us.  At  noon  we 
reached  Horse  Creek;  and  as  Ave  waded  through  the  shallow 
water,  we  saw  a  wild  and  striking  scene.  The  main  body 
of  the  Indians- had  arrived  before  us.  On  the  farther  bank 
stood  a  large  and  strong  man,  nearly  naked,  holding  a  ^hite 
horse  by  a  long  cord  and  eying  us  as  we  approached.  ,  This 
was  the  chief,  whom  Henry  called  "Old  Smoke."  Just  be- 
hind him  his  youngest  and  favorite  squaw  sat  astride  of  a 
fine  mule;  it  was  covered  with  caparisons  of  whitened  skins, 
garnished  with  blue  and  white  beads,  and  fringed  with  little 
ornaments  of  metal  that  tinkled  with  every  movement  of  the 
animal.  The  girj  had  a  light  clear  complexion,  enlivened 
by  a  spot  of  vermilion  on  each  cheek;  she  smiled,  not  to  say 
grinned,  upon  us,  showing  two  gleaming  rows  of  white  teeth. 
In  her  hand,  she  carried  the  tall  lance  of  her  unchivalrous 
lord,  fluttering  with  feathers;  his  round  white  shield  hung 
at  the  side  of  her  mule;  and  his  pipe  was  slung  at  her  back. 
Her  dress  was  a  tunic  of  deerskin,  made  beautifully  white 
by  means  of  a  species  of  clay  found  on  the  prairie,  and  orna- 
mented with  beads,  arraj^ed  in  figures  more  gay  than  tasteful, 
and  with  long  fringes  at  all  the  seams.  Not  far  from  the 
chief  stood  a  group  of  stately  figures,  their  white  bufPalo 
robes  thrown  over  their  shoulders,  gazing  coldly  upon  us; 
and  in  the  rear,  for  several  acres,  the  ground  was  covered 
with  a  temporary  encampment;  men,  women,  and  children 
swarmed  like  bees;  hundreds  of  dogs,  of  all  sizes  and  colors, 
ran  restlessly  about;  and,  close  at  hand,  the  wide  shallow 
stream  was  alive  with  boys,  girls,  and  young  squaws,  splash- 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL.  79 

ing,  screaming,  and  laughing  in  the  water.  At  the  same 
time  a  long  train  of  emigrant  wagons  were  crossing  the  creek, 
and  dragging  on  in  their  slow,  heavy  procession,  passed  the 
encampment  of  the  people  whom  they  and  their  descendants, 
in  the  space  of  a  century,  are  to  sweep  from  the  face  of  the 
earth. 

The  encampment  itself  was  merely  a  temporary  one  during 
the  heat  of  the  day.  None  of  the  lodges  were  erected;  but 
their  heavy  leather  coverings,  and  the  long  poles  used  to 
support  them,  were  scattered  everywhere  around,  among 
weapons,  domestic  utensils,  and  the  rude  harness  of  mules 
and  horses.  The  squaws  of  each  lazy  warrior  had  made  him 
a  shelter  from  the  sun,  by  stretching  a  few  buffalo  robes,  or 
the  corner  of  a  lodge-covering  upon  poles;  and  here  he  sat  in 
the  shade,  Avith  a  favorite  young  squaw,  perhaps,  at  his  side, 
glittering  with  all  imaginable  trinkets.  Before  him  stood 
the  insignia  of  his  rank  as  a  warrior,  his  w^hite  shield  of 
bull-hide,  his  medicine  bag,  his  bow  and  quiver,  his  lance 
and  his  pipe,  raised  aloft  on  a  tripod  of  three  poles.  Except 
the  dogs,  the  most  active  and  noisy  tenants  of  the  camp  were 
the  old  women,  ugly  as  Macbeth's  witches,  with  their  hair 
streaming  loose  in  the  wind,  and  nothing  but  the  tattered 
fragment  of  an  old  buffalo  robe  to  hide  their  shriveled  wiry 
limbs.  The  day  of  their  favoritism  passed  two  generations 
ago;  now  the  heaviest  labors  of  the  camp  devolved  upon 
them;  they  were  to  harness  the  horses,  pitch  the  lodges, 
dress  the  buffalo  robes,  and  bring  in  meat  for  the  hunters. 
With  the  cracked  voices  of  these  hags,  the  clamor  of  dogs, 
the  shouting  and  laughing  of  children  and  girls,  and  the  list- 
less tranquillity  of  the  warriors,  the  whole  scene  had  an  effect 
too  lively  and  picturesque  ever  to  be  forgotten. 

We  stopped  not  far  from  the  Indian  camp,  and  having  in- 
vited some  of  the  chiefs  and  warriors  to  dinner,  placed  be- 
fore them  a  sumptuous  repast  of  biscuit  and  coffee.  Squatted 
in  a  half  circle  on  the  ground,  they  soon  disposed  of  it.  As 
we  rode  forward  on  the  afternoon  journey,  several  of  our  late 
guests  accompanied  us.  Among  the  rest  was  a  huge  bloated 
savage  of  more  than  three  hundred  pounds  weight,  christened 
Le  Cochon^  in  consideration  of  his  preposterous  dimensions 
and  certain  corresponding  traits  of  his  character.  "  The  Hog" 
bestrode  a  little  white  pony,  scarce  able  to  bear  up  under  the 
enormous  burden,  though,  by  way  of  keeping  up  the  necessary 
stimulus,  the  rider  kept  both  feet  in  constant  motion,  playing 
alternately  against  his  ribs.     The  old  man  was  not  a  chief ;  he 


80  TEE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

never  had  ambition  enough  to  become  one;  he  wasnot  a  war- 
rior nor  a  hunter,  for  he  was  too  fat  and  lazy;  but  he  was  the 
richest  man  in  the  whole  village.  Riches  among  the  Dakotas 
consist  in  horses,  and  of  these  The  Hog  had  accumulated 
more  than  thirty.  He  had  already  ten  times  as  many  as  he 
wanted,  yet  still  his  appetite  for  horses  was  insatiable.  Trot- 
ting up  to  me  he  shook  me  by  the  hand,  and  gave  me  to  under- 
stand that  he  was  a  very  devoted  friend ;  and  then  he  began  a 
series  of  most  earnest  signs  and  gesticulations,  his  oily  counte- 
nance radiant  with  smiles,  and  his  little  eyes  peeping  out  with 
a  cunning  twinkle  from  between  the  masses  of  flesh  that  almost 
obscured  them.  Knowing  nothing  at  that  time  of  the  sign 
language  of  the  Indians,  I  could  only  guess  at  his  meaning. 
So  I  called  on  Henry  to  explain  it. 

The  Hog,  it  seems,  was  anxious  to  conclude  a  matrimo- 
nial bargain.  He  said  he  had  a  very  pretty  daughter  in  his 
lodge,  whom  he  would  give  me,  if  I  would  give  him  my  horse. 
These  flattering  overtures  I  chose  to  reject;  at  which  The 
Hog,  still  laughing  with  undiminished  good  humor,  gathered 
his  robe  about  his  shoulders,  and  rode  away. 

Where  we  encamped  that  night,  an  arm  of  the  Platte  ran 
between  high  bluffs;  it  was  turbid  and  swift  as  heretofore, 
but  trees  were  growing  on  its  crumbling  banks,  and  there  was 
a  nook  of  grass  between  the  water  and  the  hill.  Just  before 
entering  this  place,  we  saw  the  emigrants  encamping  at  two 
or  three  miles'  distance  on  the  right;  while  the  whole  Indian 
rabble  were  pouring  down  the  neighboring  hill  in  hope  of  the 
same  sort  of  entertainment  which  they  had  experienced  from 
us.  In  the  savage  landscape  before  our  camp,  nothing  but 
the  rushing  of  the  Platte  broke  the  silence.  Through  the 
ragged  boughs  of  the  trees,  dilapidated  and  half  dead,  we 
saw  the  sun  setting  in  crimson  behind  the  peaks  of  the  Black 
Hills;  the  restless  bosom  of  the  river  was  suffused  with  red; 
our  white  tent  was  tinged  with  it,  and  the  sterile  bluffs,  up 
to  the  rocks  that  crowned  them,  partook  of  the  same  fiery 
hue.  It  soon  passed  away;  no  light  remained,  but  that  from 
our  fire,  blazing  high  among  the  dusky  trees  and  bushes.  We 
lay  around  it  wrapped  in  our  blankets,  smoking  and  convers- 
ing until  a  late  hour,  and  then  withdrew  to  our  tent. 

We  crossed  a  sun-scorched  plain  on  the  next  morning;  the 
line  of  old  cotton-wood  trees  that  fringed  the  bank  of  the 
Platte  forming  its  extreme  verge.  Nestled  apparently  close 
beneath  them,  we  could  discern  in  the  distance  something  like 
a  building.     As  we  came  nearer,  it  assumed  form  and  dimen- 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  81 

sions,  and  proved  to  be  a  rough  structure  of  logs.  It  was  a  little 
trading  fort,  belonging  to  two  private  traders;  and  originally 
intended,  like  all  the  forts  of  the  country,  to  form  a  hollow 
square,  with  rooms  for  lodging  and  storage  opening  upon  the 
area  within.  Only  two  sides  of  it  had  been  completed;  the 
place  was  now  as  ill-fitted  for  the  purposes  of  defense  as  any 
of  those  little  log-houses,  which  upon  our  constantly  shifting 
frontier  have  been  so  often  successfully  maintained  against 
overwhelming  odds  of  Indians.  Two  lodges  were  pitched 
close  to  the  fort;  the  sun  beat  scorching  upon  the  logs;  no 
living  thing  was  stirring  except  one  old  squaw,  who  thrust 
her  round  head  from  the  opening  of  the  nearest  lodge,  and 
three  or  four  stout  young  pups,  who  were  peeping  with  looks 
of  eager  inquiry  from  under  the  covering.  In  a  moment  a 
door  opened,  and  a  little,  swarthy  black-eyed  Frenchman 
came  out.  His  dress  was  rather  singular;  his  black  curling 
hair  was  parted  in  the  middle  of  his  head,  and  fell  below  his 
shoulders;  he  wore  a  tight  frock  of  smoked  deerskin,  very 
gayly  ornamented  with  figures  worked  in  dyed  porcupine 
quills.  His  moccasins  and  leggings  were  also  gaudily  adorned 
in  the  same  manner;  and  the  latter  had  in  addition  a  line  of 
long  fringes,  reaching  down  the  seams.  The  small  frame  of 
Richard,  for  by  this  name  Henry  made  him  known  to  us,  was 
in  the  highest  degree  athletic  and  vigorous.  There  was  no 
superfluity,  and  indeed  there  seldom  is  among  the  active 
white  men  of  this  country,  but  every  limb  was  compact  and 
hard;  every  sinew  had  its  full  tone  and  elasticity,  and  the 
whole  man  wore  an  air  of  mingled  hardihood  and  buoyancy. 
Richard  committed  our  horses  to  a  Navahoe  slave,  a  mean 
looking  fellow  taken  prisoner  on  the  Mexican  frontier;  and, 
relieving  us  of  our  rifles  with  ready  politeness,  led  the  way 
into  the  principal  apartment  of  his  establishment.  This  was 
a  room  ten  feet  square.  The  walls  and  floor  were  of  black 
mud,  and  the  roof  of  rough  timber;  there  was  a  huge  fire- 
place made  of  four  flat  rocks,  picked  up  on  the  prairie.  An 
Indian  bow  and  otter-skin  quiver,  several  gaudy  articles  of 
Rocky  Mountain  finer\',  an  Indian  medicine  bag,  and  a  pipe 
and  tobacco  pouch,  garnished  the  walls,  and  rifles  rested  in 
a  corner.  Tliere  was  no  furniture  except  a  sort  of  rough 
settle,  covered  with  buffalo  robes,  upon  which  lolled  a  tall 
half-breed,  with  his  hair  glued  in  masses  upon  each  temple, 
and  saturated  with  vermilion.  Two  or  three  more  "moun- 
tain men"  sat  cross-legged  on  the  floor.  Their  attire  was  not 
unlike  that  of  Richard  himself;  but  the  most  striking  figure 


82  THE  CALIFOBNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

of  the  group  was  a  naked  Indian  boy  of  sixteen,  with  a  hand- 
some face,  and  light,  active  proportions,  who  sat  in  an  easy 
posture  in  the  corner  near  the  door.  Not  one  of  his  limbs 
moved  the  breadth  of  a  hair;  his  eye  was  fixed  immovably, 
not  on  any  person  present,  but,  as  it  appeared,  on  the  pro- 
jecting corner  of  the  fireplace  opposite  to  him. 

On  these  prairies  the  custom  of  smoking  with  friends  is 
seldom  omitted,  whether  among  Indians  or  whites.  The  pipe, 
therefore,  was  taken  from  the  wall,  and  its  great  red  bowl 
crammed  with  the  tobacco  and  shongsasha^  mixed  in  suitable 
proportions.  Then  it  passed  round  the  circle,  each  man  in- 
haling a  few  whiffs  and  handing  it  to  his  neighbor.  Having 
spent  half  an  hour  here,  we  took  our  leave ;  first  inviting  our 
new  friends  to  drink  a  cup  of  coffee  with  us  at  our  camp  a 
mile  farther  up  the  river.  By  this  time,  as  the  reader  may 
conceive,  we  had  grown  rather  shabby;  our  clothes  had  burst 
into  rags  and  tatters;  and  what  was  worse,  we  had  very  little 
means  of  renovation.  Fort  Laramie  was  but  seven  miles 
before  us.  Being  totally  averse  to  appearing  in  such  plight 
among  any  society  that  could  boast  an  approximation  to  the 
civilized,  we  soon  stopped  by  the  river  to  make  our  toilet  in 
the  best  way  we  could.  We  hung  up  small  looking-glasses 
against  the  trees  and  shaved,  an  operation  neglected  for  six 
weeks;  we  performed  our  a'blutions  in  the  Platte,  though  the 
utility  of  such  a  proceeding  was  questionable,  the  water  look- 
ing exactly  like  a  cup  of  chocolate,  and  the  banks  consisting 
of  the  softest  and  richest  yellow  mud,  so  that  we  were  ob- 
liged, as  a  preliminary,  to  build  a  causeway  of  stout  branches 
and  twigs.  Having  also  put  on  radiant  moccasins,  procured 
from  a  squaw  of  Richard's  establishment,  and  made  what 
other  improvements  our  narrow  circumstances  allowed,  we 
took  our  seats  on  the  grass  with  a  feeling  of  greatly  increased 
respectability,  to  await  the  arrival  of  our  guests.  They 
came;  the  banquet  was  concluded,  and  the  pipe  smoked. 
Bidding  them  adieu,  we  turned  our  horses'  heads  toward  the 
fort. 

An  hour  elapsed.  The  barren  hills  closed  across  our  front, 
and  we  could  see  no  farther;  until  having  surmounted  them,  a 
rapid  stream  appeared  at  the  foot  of  the  descent,  running  into 
the  Platte;  beyond  was  a  green  meadow,  dotted  with  bushes, 
and  in  the  midst  of  these,  at  the  point  where  the  two  rivers 
joined,  were  the  low  clay  walls  of  a  fort.  This  was  not  Fort 
Laramie,  but  another  post  of  less  recent  date,  which  having 
sunk  before  its  successful  competitor,  was  now  deserted  and 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  83 

ruinous.  A  moment  after  the  hills,  seeming  to  draw  apart  as 
we  advanced,  disclosed  Fort  Laramie  itself,  its  high  bastions 
and  perpendicular  walls  of  clay  crowning  an  eminence  on  the 
left  beyond  the  stream,  while  behind  stretched  a  line  of  arid 
and  desolate  ridges,  and  behind  these  again,  towering  aloft 
seven  thousand  feet,  arose  the  grim  Black  Hills. 

We  tried  to  ford  Laramie  Creek  at  a  point  nearly  opposite 
the  fort,  but  the  stream,  swollen  with  the  rains  in  the  moun- 
tains, was  too  rapid.  We  passed  up  along  its  bank  to  find  a 
better  crossing  place.  Men  gathered  on  the  wall  to  look  at 
us.  "  There's  Bordeaux  !"  called  Henry,  his  face  brightening 
as  he  recognized  his  acquaintance;  "him  there  with  the  spy- 
glass; and  there's  old  Vaskiss,  and  Tucker,  and  May;  and  by 
George!  there's  Cimoneau!"  This  Cimoneau  was  Henry's 
fast  friend,  and  the  only  man  in  the  country  who  could  rival 
him  in  hunting. 

We  soon  found  a  ford.  Henry  led  the  way,  the  pony  ap- 
proaching the  bank  with  a  countenance  of  cool  indifference, 
bracing  his  feet  and  sliding  into  the  stream  with  the  most  un- 
moved composure: 

At  the  first  plunge  the  horse  sunk  low, 
And  the  water  broke  o'er  the  saddle-bow. 

We  followed;  the  water  boiled  against  our  saddles,  but  our 
horses  bore  us  easily  through.  The  unfortunate  little  mules 
came  near  going  down  with  the  current,  cart  and  all ;  and  we 
watched  them  with  some  solicitude  scrambling  over  the  loose 
round  stones  at  the  bottom,  and  bracing  stoutly  against  the 
stream.  All  landed  safely  at  last;  we  crossed  a  little  plain, 
descended  a  hollow,  and  riding  up  a  steep  bank  found  our- 
selves before  the  gateway  of  Fort  Laramie,  under  the  impend- 
ing blockhouse  erected  above  it  to  defend  the  entrance. 

CHAPTER  IX. 

SCENES   AT   FORT   LARAMIE. 

'Tis  true  they  are  a  lawless  brood, 
But  rough  in  form,  nor  mild  in  mood. 

The  Bride  op  Abydos. 

Looking  back,  after  the  expiration  of  a  year,  upon  Fort 
Laramie  and  its  inmates,  they  seem  less  like  a  reality  than  like 
Gome  fanciful  picture  of  the  olden  time;  so  different  was  the 
scene  from  any  which  this  tamer  side  of  the  world  can  pre- 
sent,    Tall  Indians,  enveloped  in  their  white  buffalo  robes^ 


84  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

were  stridiDg  across  the  area  or  reclining  at  full  length  on  the 
low  roofs  of  the  buildings  which  inclosed  it.  Numerous 
squaws,  gayly  bedizened,  sat  grouped  in  front  of  the  apart- 
ments they  occupied;  their  mongrel  offspring,  restless  and 
vociferous,  rambled  in  every  direction  through  the  fort;  and 
the  trappers,  traders,  and  engages  of  the  establishment  were 
busy  at  their  labor  or  their  amusements. 

We  were  met  at  the  gate,  but  by  no  means  cordially  wel- 
comed. Indeed,  we  seemed  objects  of  some  distrust  and  sus- 
picion until  Henry  Chatillon  exj^lained  that  we  were  not 
traders,  and  we,  in  confirmation,  handed  to  the  bourgeois  a 
letter  of  introduction  from  his  principals.  He  took  it,  turned 
it  upside  down,  and  tried  hard  to  read  it;  but  his  literary  at- 
tainments not  being  adequate  to  the  task,  he  applied  for  relief 
to  the  clerk,  a  sleek,  smiling  Frenchman,  named  Montalon. 
The  letter  read,  Bordeaux  (the  bourgeois^  seemed  gradually 
to  awaken  to  a  sense  of  what  was  expected  of  him.  Though 
not  deficient  in  hospitable  intentions,  he  was  wholly  unaccus- 
tomed to  act  as  master  of  ceremonies.  Discarding  all  formal- 
ities of  reception,  he  did  not  honor  us  with  a  single  word, 
but  walked  swiftly  across  the  area,  while  we  followed  in  some 
admiration  to  a  railing  and  a  flight  of  steps  opposite  the  en- 
trance. He  signed  to  us  that  we  had  better  fasten  our  horses 
to  the  railing;  then  he  walked  up  the  steps,  tramped  along  a 
rude  balcony,  and  kicking  open  a  door  displayed  a  large  room, 
rather  more  elaborately  finished  than  a  barn.  For  furniture  it 
had  a  rough  bedstead,  but  no  bed;  two  chairs,  a  chest  of 
drawers,  a  tin  pail  to  hold  water,  and  a  board  to  cut  tobacco 
upon.  A  brass  crucifix  hung  on  the  wall,  and  close  at  hand 
a  recent  scalp,  with  hair  full  a  yard  long,  was  suspended  from 
a  nail.  I  shall  again  have  occasion  to  mention  this  dismal 
trophy,  its  history  being  connected  with  that  of  our  subse- 
quent proceedings. 

This  apartment,  the  best  in  Fort  Laramie,  was  that  usually 
occupied  by  the  legitimate  bourgeois.^  Papin;  in  whose 
absence  the  command  devolved  upon  Bordeaux.  The  latter, 
a  stout,  bluff  little  fellow,  much  inflated  by  a  sense  of  his  new 
authority,  began  to  roar  for  buffalo  robes.  These  being 
brought  and  spread  upon  the  floor  formed  our  beds;  much 
better  ones  than  we  had  of  late  been  accustomed  to.  Our 
arrangements  made,  we  stepped  out  to  the  balcony  to  take  a 
more  leisurely  survey  of  the  long  looked-for  haven  at  which 
we  had  arrived  at  last.  Beneath  us  was  the  square  area  sur- 
rounded by  little  rooms,  or  rather  cells,  which  opened  upo^ 


THE  CALIFOUNIA  AND  OUEOON  TUAIL.  85 

it.  These  were  devoted  to  various  purposes,  but  served 
chiefly  for  the  accommodation  of  the  men  employed  at  the  fort, 
or  of  the  equally  numerous  squaws  whom  they  were  allowed  to 
maintain  in  it.  Opposite  to  us  rose  the  blockhouse  above  the 
gateway;  it  was  adorned  with  a  figure  which  even  now  haunts 
my  memory;  a  horse  at  full  speed,  daubed  upon  the  boards 
with  red  paint,  and  exhibiting  a  degree  of  skill  which  might 
rival  that  displayed  by  the  Indians  in  executing  similar 
designs  upon  their  robes  and  lodges.  A  busy  scene  was  enact- 
ing in  the  area.  The  wagons  of  Vaskiss,  an  old  trader,  were 
about  to  set  out  for  a  remote  post  in  the  mountains,  and  the 
Canadians  were  going  through  their  preparations  with  all 
possible  bustle,  while  here  and  there  an  Indian  stood  looking 
on  with  imperturbable  gravity. 

Fort  Laramie  is  one  of  the  posts  established  by  the  Ameri- 
can Fur  Company,  who  well-nigh  monopolize  the  Indian 
trade  of  this  whole  region.  Here  their  officials  rule  with  an 
absolute  sway;  the  arm  of  the  United  States  has  little  force; 
for  when  we  were  there,  the  extreme  outposts  of  her  troops 
were  about  seven  hundred  miles  to  the  eastward.  The  little 
fort  is  built  of  bricks  dried  in  the  sun,  and  externally  is  of  an 
oblong  form,  with  bastions  of  clay,  in  the  form  of  ordinary 
blockhouses,  at  two  of  the  corners.  The  walls  are  about  fif- 
teen feet  high,  and  surmounted  by  a  slender  palisade.  The 
roofs  of  the  apartments  within,  which  are  built  close  against 
the  walls,  serve  the  purpose  of  a  banquette.  Within,  the  fort 
is  divided  by  a  partition;  on  one  side  is  the  square  area  sur- 
rounded by  the  storerooms,  offices,  and  apartments  of  the 
inmates;  on  the  other  is  the  corral,  a  narrow  place,  encom- 
passed by  the  high  clay  walls,  where  at  night,  or  in  presence 
of  dangerous  Indians,  the  horses  and  mules  of  the  fort  are 
crowded  for  safe  keeping.  The  main  entrance  has  two  gates, 
with  an  arched  passage  intervening.  A  little  square  window, 
quite  high  above  the  ground,  opens  laterally  from  an  adjoining 
chamber  into  this  passage;  so  that  when  the  inner  gate  is 
closed  and  barred,  a  person  without  may  still  hold  com- 
munication with  those  within  through  this  narrow  aperture. 
This  obviates  the  necessity  of  admitting  suspicious  Indians, 
for  purposes  of  trading,  into  the  body  of  the  fort;  for  when 
danger  is  apprehended,  the  inner  gate  is  shut  fast,  and  all 
traffic  is  carried  on  by  means  of  the  little  window.  This  pre- 
caution, though  highly  necessary  at  some  of  the  Company's 
posts,  is  now  seldom  resorted  to  at  Fort  Laramie;  where, 
though  men  are  frequently  killed  in  its  neighborhood,  no 


86  THE  CALIFOBNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

apprehensions  are  now  entertained  of  any  general  designs  of 
hostility  from  the  Indians. 

We  did  not  long  enjoy  our  new  quarters  undisturbed.  The 
door  was  silently  pushed  open,  and  two  eyeballs  and  a  visage 
as  black  as  night  looked  in  upon  us;  then  a  red  arm  and 
shoulder  intruded  themselves,  and  a  tall  Indian,  gliding  in, 
shook  us  by  the  hand,  grunted  his  salutation,  and  sat  down  on 
the  floor.  Others  followed,  with  faces  of  the  natural  hue ;  and 
letting  fall  their  heavy  robes  from  their  shoulders,  they  took 
their  seats,  quite  at  ease,  in  a  semicircle  before  us.  The  pipe 
was  now  to  be  lighted  and  passed  round  from  one  to  another; 
and  this  was  the  only  entertainment  that  at  present  they 
expected  from  us.  These  visitors  were  fathers,  brothers,  or 
other  relatives  of  the  squaws  in  the  fort,  where  they  were  per- 
mitted to  remain,  loitering  about  in  perfect  idleness.  All 
those  who  smoked  with  us  were  men  of  standing  and  rej^ute. 
Two  or  three  others  dropped  in  also;  young  fellows  who 
neither  by  their  years  nor  their  exploits  were  entitled  to  rank 
with  the  old  men  and  warriors,  and  who,  abashed  in  the  pres- 
ence of  their  superiors,  stood  aloof,  never  withdrawing  their 
eyes  from  us.  Their  cheeks  were  adorned  with  vermilion, 
their  ears  with  pendants  of  shell,  and  their  necks  with  beads. 
Never  yet  having  signalized  themselves  as  hunters,  or  per- 
formed the  honorable  exploit  of  killing  a  man,  they  were  held 
in  slight  esteem,  and  were  diffident  and  bashful  in  proportion. 
Certain  formidable  inconveniences  attended  this  influx  of  vis- 
itors. They  were  bent  on  inspecting  everything  in  the  room ; 
our  equipments  and  our  dress  alike  underwent  their  scrutiny; 
for  though  the  contrary  has  been  carelessly  asserted,  few 
beings  have  more  curiosity  than  Indians  in  regard  to  subjects 
within  their  ordinary  range  of  thought.  As  to  other  matters, 
indeed,  they  seemed  utterly  indifferent.  They  will  not 
trouble  themselves  to  inquire  into  what  they  cannot  compre- 
hend, but  are  quite  contented  to  place  their  hands  over  their 
mouths  in  token  of  wonder,  and  exclaim  that  it  is  "great 
medicine."  With  this  comprehensive  solution,  an  Indian 
never  is  at  a  loss.  He  never  launches  forth  into  speculation 
and  conjecture;  his  reason  moves  in  its  beaten  track.  His 
soul  is  dormant;  and  no  exertions  of  the  missionaries,  Jesuit 
or  Puritan,  of  the  Old  World  or  of  the  New,  have  as  yet 
availed  to  rouse  it. 

As  we  were  looking,  at  sunset,  from  the  wall,  upon  the  wild 
and  desolate  plains  that  surround  the  fort,  we  observed  a 
cluster  of  strange  objects  like  scaffolds  rising  in  the  distance 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  87 

against  the  red  western  sky.  They  bore  aloft  some  singular 
looking  burdens ;  and  at  their  foot  glimmered  something  white 
like  bones.  This  was  the  place  of  sepulture  of  some  Dakota 
chiefs,  whose  remains  their  people  are  fond  of  placing  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  fort,  in  the  hope  that  they  may  thus  be  pro- 
tected from  violation  at  the  hands  of  their  enemies.  Yet  it 
has  happened  more  than  once,  and  quite  recently,  that  war 
parties  of  the  Crow  Indians,  ranging  through  the  countr}^, 
have  thrown  the  bodies  from  the  scaffolds,  and  broken  them 
to  pieces  amid  the  yells  of  the  Dakotas,  who  remained  pent 
up  in  the  fort,  too  few  to  defend  the  honored  relics  from  in- 
sult. The  white  objects  upon  the  ground  were  buffalo  skulls, 
arranged  in  the  mystic  circle  commonly  seen  at  Indian  places 
of  sepulture  upon  the  prairie. 

We  soon  discovered,  in  the  twilight,  a  band  of  fifty  or  sixty 
horses  approaching  the  fort.  These  were  the  animals  belong- 
ing to  the  establishment;  who  having  been  sent  out  to  feed, 
under  the  care  of  armed  guards,  in  the  meadows  below,  were 
now  being  driven  into  the  corral  for  the  night.  A  little  gate 
opened  into  this  inclosure;  by  the  side  of  it  stood  one  of  the 
guards,  an  old  Canadian,  with  gray  bushy  eyebrows,  and  a 
dragoon  pistol  stuck  into  his  belt;  while  his  comrade,  mounted 
on  horseback,  his  rifle  laid  across  the  saddle  in  front  of  him, 
and  his  long  hair  blowing  before  his  swarthy  face,  rode  at  the 
rear  of  the  disorderly  troop,  urging  them  up  the  ascent.  In 
a  moment  the  narrow  corral  was  thronged  with  the  half -wild 
horses,  kicking,  biting,  and  crowding  restlessly  together. 

The  discordant  jingling  of  a  bell,  rung  by  a  Canadian  in  the 
area,  summoned  us  to  supper.  This  sumptuous  repast  was 
served  on  a  rough  table  in  one  of  the  lower  apartments  of  the 
fort,  and  consisted  of  cakes  of  bread  and  dried  buffalo  meat — 
an  excellent  thing  for  strengthening  the  teeth.  At  this  meal 
were  seated  the  bourgeois  and  superior  dignitaries  of  the  estab- 
lishment, among  whom  Henry  Chatillon  was  worthily  in- 
cluded. Ko  sooner  was  it  finished,  than  the  table  was  spread 
a  second  time  (the  luxury  of  bread  being  now,  however, 
omitted),  for  the  benefit  of  certain  hunters  and  trappers  of 
an  inferior  standing;  while  the  ordinary  Canadian  engages 
were  regaled  on  dried  meat  in  one  of  their  lodging  rooms. 
By  way  of  illustrating  the  domestic  economy  of  Fort  Lara- 
mie, it  may  not  be  amiss  to  introduce  in  this  place  a  story 
current  among  the  men  when  we  were  there. 

There  was  an  old  man  named  Pierre,  whose  duty  it  was  to 
bring  the  meat  from  the  storeroom  for  the  men.     Old  Pierre, 


88  THE  CALIFOHmA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

in  the  kindness  of  his  heart,  used  to  select  the  fattest  and  the 
best  pieces  for  his  companions.  This  did  not  long  escape  the 
keen-eyed  bourgeois^  who  was  greatly  disturbed  at  such  im- 
providence, and  cast  about  for  some  means  to  stop  it.  At  last 
he  hit  on  a  plan  that  exactly  suited  him.  At  the  side  of  the 
meat-room,  and  separated  from  it  by  a  clay  partition,  was 
another  apartment,  used  for  the  storage  of  furs.  It  had  no 
other  communication  with  the  fort,  except  through  a  square 
hole  in  the  partition;  and  of  course  it  was  perfectly  dark. 
One  evening  the  bourgeois.,  watching  for  a  moment  when  no 
one  observed  him,  dodged  into  the  meat-room,  clambered 
through  the  hole,  and  ensconced  himself  among  the  furs  and 
buffalo  robes.  Soon  after,  old  Pierre  came  in  with  his  lan- 
tern; and,  muttering  to  himself,  began  to  pull  over  the  bales 
of  meat,  and  select  the  best  pieces,  as  usual.  But  suddenly  a 
hollow  and  sepulchral  voice  proceeded  from  the  inner  apart- 
ment: "Pierre!  Pierre!  Let  that  fat  meat  alone!  Take 
nothing  but  lean  !"  Pierre  dropped  his  lantern,  and  bolted 
out  into  the  fort,  screaming,  in  an  agony  of  terror,  that  the 
devil  was  in  the  storeroom;  but  tripping  on  the  threshold, 
he  pitched  over  upon  the  gravel,  and  lay  senseless,  stunned  by 
the  fall.  The  Canadians  ran  out  to  the  rescue.  Some  lifted 
the  unlucky  Pierre;  and  others,  making  an  extempore  crucifix 
out  of  two  sticks,  were  proceeding  to  attack  the  devil  in  his 
stronghold,  when  the  bourgeois.,  with  a  crestfallen  counte- 
nance, appeared  at  the  door.  To  add  to  the  bourgeois"^  mor- 
tification, he  Avas  obliged  to  explain  the  whole  stratagem  to 
Pierre,  in  order  to  bring  the  latter  to  his  senses. 

We  were  sitting,  on  the  following  morning,  in  the  passage- 
way between  the  gates,  conversing  with  the  traders  Vaskiss 
and  May.  These  two  men,  together  with  our  sleek  friend,  the 
clerk  Montalon,  were,  I  believe,  the  only  persons  then  in  the 
fort  who  could  read  and  write.  May  was  telling  a  curious 
story  about  the  traveler  Catlin,  when  an  ugly,  diminutive 
Indian,  Avretchedly  mounted,  came  up  at  a  gallop,  and  rode 
past  us  into  the  fort.  On  being  questioned,  he  said  that 
Smoke's  village  was  close  at  hand.  Accordingly  only  a  few 
minutes  elapsed  before  the  hills  beyond  the  river  were  covered 
with  a  disorderly  swarm  of  savages,  on  horseback  and  on  foot. 
May  finished  his  story;  and  by  that  time  the  whole  array  had 
descended  to  Laramie  Creek,  and  commenced  crossing  it  in  a 
mass.  I  walked  down  to  the  bank.  The  stream  is  wide,  and 
was  then  between  three  and  four  feet  deep,  with  a  very  swift 
current.     For  several  rods  the  water  was  alive  with  dogs, 


Tim  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  89 

horses,  and  Indians.  The  long  poles  used  in  erecting  the 
lodges  are  carried  by  the  horses,  being  fastened  by  the  heavier 
end,  two  or  three  on  each  side,  to  a  rude  sort  of  pack  saddle, 
while  the  other  end  drags  on  the  ground.  About  a  foot  be- 
hind the  horse,  a  kind  of  large  basket  or  pannier  is  suspended 
between  the  poles,  and  firmly  lashed  in  its  place.  On  the  back 
of  the  horse  are  piled  various  articles  of  luggage ;  the  basket 
also  is  well  filled  with  domestic  utensils,  or,  quite  as  often, 
with  a  litter  of  puppies,  a  brood  of  small  children,  or  a  super- 
annuated old  man.  Numbers  of  these  curious  vehicles,  called, 
in  the  bastard  language  of  the  country,  travaux^  were  now 
splashing  together  through  the  stream.  Among  them  swam 
countless  dogs,  often  burdened  with  miniature  travaux;  and 
dashing  forward  on  horseback  through  the  throng  came  the 
superbly  formed  warriors,  the  slender  figure  of  some  lynx- 
eyed  bo3^  clinging  fast  behind  them.  The  women  sat  perched 
on  the  pack  saddles,  adding  not  a  little  to  the  load  of  the 
already  overburdened  horses.  The  confusion  was  prodigious. 
The  dogs  yelled  and  howled  in  chorus;  the  puppies  in  the 
travaux  set  up  a  dismal  whine  as  the  water  invaded  their 
comfortable  retreat;  the  little  black-eyed  children,  from  one 
year  of  age  upward,  clung  fast  with  both  hands  to  the  edge 
of  their  basket,  and  looked  over  in  alarm  at  the  water  rush- 
ing so  near  them,  sputtering  and  making  wry  mouths  as  it 
splashed  against  their  faces.  Some  of  the  dogs,  encumbered 
by  their  load,  were  carried  down  by  the  current,  yelping  pite- 
ously;  and  the  old  squaws  would  rush  into  the  water,  seize 
their  favorites  by  the  neck,  and  drag  them  out.  As  each  horse 
gained  the  bank,  he  scrambled  up  as  he  could.  Stray  horses 
and  colts  came  among  the  rest,  often  breaking  away  at  full 
speed  through  the  crowd,  followed  by  the  old  hags,  screaming 
after  their  fashion  on  all  occasions  of  excitement.  Buxom 
young  squaws,  blooming  in  all  the  charms  of  vermilion,  stood 
here  and  there  on  the  bank,  holding  aloft  their  master's  lance, 
as  a  signal  to  collect  the  scattered  portions  of  his  household. 
In  a  few  moments  the  crowd  melted  awa}^;  each  family,  with 
its  horses  and  equipage,  filing  off  to  the  plain  at  the  rear  of 
the  fort;  and  here,  in  the  space  of  half  an  hour,  arose  sixty  or 
seventy  of  their  tapering  lodges.  Their  horses  were  feeding 
by  hundreds  over  the  surrounding  prairie,  and  their  dogs  were 
roaming  everywhere.  The  fort  was  full  of  men,  and  the  chil- 
dren were  whooping  and  yelling  incessantly  under  the  walls. 
These  newcomers  were  scarcely  arrived,  when  Bordeaux 
was  running  across  the  fort,  shouting  to  his  squaw  to  bring 


90  THE  CALIFOnmA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

him  his  spy -glass.  The  obedient  Marie,  the  very  model  of  a 
squaw,  produced  the  instrument,  and  Bordeaux  hurried  with 
it  up  to  the  wall.  Pointing  it  to  the  eastward,  he  exclaimed, 
with  an  oath,  that  the  families  were  coming.  But  a  few  mo- 
ments elapsed  before  the  heavj^  caravan  of  the  emigrant 
wagons  could  be  seen,  steadily  advancing  from  the  hills. 
They  gained  the  river,  and  without  turning  or  pausing  plunged 
in;  they  j^assed  through,  and  slowly  ascending  the  opposing 
bank,  kept  directly  on  their  way  past  the  fort  and  the  Indian 
village,  until,  gaining  a  spot  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant,  they 
wheeled  into  a  circle.  For  some  time  our  tranquillity  was 
undisturbed.  The  emigrants  were  preparing  their  encamp- 
ment; but  no  sooner  was  this  accomplished  than  Fort  Lara- 
mie was  fairly  taken  by  storm.  A  crowd  of  broad-brimmed 
hats,  thin  visages,  and  staring  eyes  appeared  suddenly  at  the 
gate.  Tall  awkward  men,  in  brown  homespun;  women  with 
cadaverous  faces  and  long  lank  figures,  came  thronging  in 
together,  and,  as  if  inspired  by  the  very  demon  of  curiosity, 
ransacked  every  nook  and  corner  of  the  fort.  Dismayed  at 
this  invasion,  we  withdrew  in  all  speed  to  our  chamber,  vainly 
hoping  that  it  might  prove  an  inviolable  sanctuary.  The 
emigrants  prosecuted  their  investigations  with  untiring  vigor. 
They  penetrated  the  rooms,  or  rather  dens,  inhabited  by  the 
astonished  squaws.  They  explored  the  apartments  of  the  men, 
and  even  that  of  Marie  and  the  bourgeois.  At  last  a  numer- 
ous deputation  appeared  at  our  door,  but  were  immediately 
excelled.  Being  totally  devoid  of  any  sense  of  delicacy  or 
propriety,  they  seemed  resolved  to  search  every  mystery  to 
the  bottom. 

Having  at  length  satisfied  their  curiosity,  they  next  pro- 
ceeded to  business.  The  men  occupied  themselves  in  procur- 
ing supplies  for  their  onward  journey;  either  buying  them 
with  money  or  giving  in  exchange  superfluous  articles  of  their 
own. 

The  emigrants  felt  a  violent  prejudice  against  the  French 
Indians,  as  they  called  the  trappers  and  traders.  They 
thought,  and  with  some  justice,  that  these  men  bore  them  no 
good  will.  Many  of  them  were  firmly  persuaded  that  the 
French  were  instigating  the  Indians  to  attack  and  cut  them 
ofi:'.  On  visiting  the  encampment  we  were  at  once  struck  with 
the  extraordinary  perplexity  and  indecision  that  prevailed 
among  the  emigrants.  They  seemed  like  men  totally  out  of 
their  element;  bewildered  and  amazed,  like  a  troop  of  school- 
boys lost  in  the  woods.     It  was  impossible  to  be  long  among 


THE  CALIFOHNIA  and  OREGON  TRAIL.  91 

them  without  being  coDscious  of  the  high  and  bold  spirit  with 
which  most  of  them  were  animated.  But  the  forest  is  the 
home  of  the  backwoodsman.  On  the  remote  prairie  he  is 
totally  at  a  loss.  He  diifers  as  much  from  the  genuine 
"mountain-man,"  the  wild  prairie  hunter,  as  a  Canadian  vo}'- 
ageur,  paddling  his  canoe  on  the  rapids  of  the  Ottawa,  differs 
from  an  American  sailor  among  the  storms  of  Cape  Horn. 
Still  my  companion  and  I  were  somewhat  at  a  loss  to  account 
for  this  perturbed  state  of  mind.  It  could  not  be  cowardice; 
these  men  were  of  the  same  stock  with  the  volunteers  of  Mon- 
terey and  Buena  Vista.  Yet,  for  the  most  part,  thej^  were  the 
rudest  and  most  ignorant  of  the  frontier  population;  they 
knew  absolutely  nothing  of  the  country  and  its  inhabitants; 
they  had  already  experienced  much  misfortune,  and  appre- 
hended more;  they  had  seen  nothing  of  mankind,  and  had 
never  put  their  own  resources  to  the  test. 

A  full  proportion  of  suspicion  fell  upon  us.  Being  strangers, 
we  were  looked  upon  as  enemies.  Having  occasion  for  a  sup- 
ply of  lead  and  a  few  other  necessary  articles,  we  used  to  go 
over  to  the  emigrant  camps  to  obtain  them.  After  some  hesi- 
tation, some  dubious  glances,  and  fumbling  of  the  hands  in 
the  pockets,  the  terms  would  be  agreed  upon,  the  price  ten- 
dered, and  the  emigrant  would  go  off  to  bring  the  article  in 
question.  After  waiting  until  our  patience  gave  out,  we 
would  go  in  search  of  him,  and  find  him  seated  on  the  tongue 
of  his  wagon. 

"Well,  stranger,"  he  would  observe,  as  he  saw  us  appro^h, 
"I  reckon  I  won't  trade!" 

Some  friend  of  his  had  followed  him  from  the  scene  of  the 
bargain,  and  suggested  in  his  ear  that  clearly  we  meant  to 
cheat  him,  and  he  had  better  have  nothing  to  do  with  us. 

This  timorous  mood  of  the  emigrants  was  doubly  unfortu- 
nate, as  it  exposed  them  to  real  danger.  Assume,  in  the 
presence  of  Indians,  a  bold  bearing,  self-confident  yet  vigil- 
ant, and  you  will  find  them  tolerably  safe  neighbors.  But 
your  safety  depends  on  the  respect  and  fear  you  are  able  to 
inspire.  If  you  betray  timidity  or  indecision,  you  convert 
them  from  that  moment  into  insidious  and  dangerous  ene- 
mies. The  Dakota  saw  clearly  enough  the  perturbation  of  the 
emigrants,  and  instantly  availed  themselves  of  it.  They 
became  extremely  insolent  and  exacting  in  their  demands. 
It  has  become  an  established  custom  with  them  to  go  to  the 
camp  of  every  party,  as  it  arrives  in  succession  at  the  fort, 
and  demand  a  feast.     Smoke's  village  had  come  with  this 


92  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OBEGON  TRAIL. 

express  design,  having  made  several  days'  journey  with  no 
other  object  than  that  of  enjoying  a  cup  of  coffee  and  two  or 
three  biscuits.  So  the  "feast"  was  demanded,  and  the  emi- 
grants dared  not  refuse  it. 

One  evening,  about  sunset,  the  village  was  deserted.  We 
met  old  men,  warriors,  squaws,  and  children  in  gay  attire, 
trooping  off  to  the  encampment,  with  faces  of  anticipation ; 
and,  arriving  here,  they  seated  themselves  in  a  semicircle. 
Smoke  occupied  the  center,  with  his  warriors  on  either  hand; 
the  young  men  and  boys  next  succeeded,  and  the  squaws  and 
children  formed  the  horns  of  the  crescent.  The  biscuit  and 
coffee  were  most  promptly  dispatched,  the  emigrants  staring 
open-mouthed  at  their  savage  guests.  With  each  new  emigrant 
party  that  arrived  at  Fort  Laramie  this  scene  was  renewed ; 
and  every  day  the  Indians  grew  more  rapacious  and  presump- 
tuous. One  evening  they  broke  to  pieces,  out  of  mere  wan- 
tonness, the  cups  from  which  they  had  been  feasted;  and  this 
so  exasperated  the  emigrants  that  many  of  them  seized  their 
rifles  and  could  scarcely  be  restrained  from  firing  on  the  inso- 
lent mob  of  Indians.  Before  we  left  the  country  this  danger- 
ous spirit  on  the  part  of  the  Dakota  had  mounted  to  a  yet 
higher  pitch.  They  began  openly  to  threaten  the  emigrants 
with  destruction,  and  actually  fired  upon  one  or  two  parties 
of  whites.  A  military  force  and  military  law  are  urgently 
called  for  in  that  perilous  region;  and  unless  troops  are 
speedily  stationed  at  Fort  Laramie,  or  elsewhere  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, both  the  emigrants  and  other  travelers  will  be  ex- 
posed to  most  imminent  risks. 

The  Ogallalla,  the  Brules,  and  the  other  western  bands  of 
the  Dakota,  are  thorough  savages,  unchanged  by  any  contact 
with  civilization.  Not  one  of  them  can  speak  an  European 
tongue,  or  has  ever  visited  an  American  settlement.  Until 
within  a  year  or  two,  when  the  emigrants  began  to  pass 
through  their  country  on  the  way  to  Oregon,  they  had  seen 
no  whites  except  the  handful  employed  about  the  Fur  Com- 
pany's posts.  They  esteemed  them  a  wise  people,  inferior 
only  to  themselves,  living  in  leather  lodges,  like  their  own, 
and  subsisting  on  buffalo.  But  when  the  swarm  of  MeneasJca, 
with  their  oxen  and  wagons,  began  to  invade  them,  their 
astonishment  was  unbounded.  They  could  scarcely  believe 
that  the  earth  contained  such  a  multitude  of  white  men. 
Their  wonder  is  now  giving  way  to  indignation ;  and  the  result, 
unless  vigilantly  guarded  against,  may  be  lamentable  in  the 
extreme. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  93 

But  to  glance  at  the  interior  of  a  lodge.  Shaw  and  I  used 
often  to  visit  them.  Indeed  we  spent  most  of  our  evenings  in 
the  Indian  village;  Shaw's  assumption  of  the  medical  char- 
acter giving  us  a  fair  pretext.  As  a  sample  of  the  rest  I  will 
describe  one  of  these  visits.  The  sun  had  just  set,  and  the 
horses  were  driven  into  the  corral.  The  Prairie  Cock,  a  noted 
beau,  came  in  at  the  gate  with  a  bevy  of  young  girls,  with 
whom  he  began  a  dance  in  the  area,  leading  them  round  and 
round  in  a  circle,  while  he  jerked  up  from  his  chest  a  succes- 
sion of  monotonous  sounds,  to  which  they  kept  time  in  a  rue- 
ful chant.  Outside  the  gate  boys  and  young  men  were  idly 
frolicking;  and  close  by,  looking  grimly  upon  them,  stood  a 
warrior  in  his  robe,  with  his  face  painted  jet-black,  in  token 
that  he  had  lately  taken  a  Pawnee  scalp.  Passing  these,  the 
tall  dark  lodges  rose  between  us  and  the  red  western  sky.  We 
repaired  at  once  to  the  lodge  of  Old  Smoke  himself.  It  was 
by  no  means  better  than  the  others;  indeed,  it  was  rather 
shabby;  for  in  this  democratic  community  the  chief  never 
assumes  superior  state.  Smoke  sat  cross-legged  on  a  buffalo 
robe,  and  his  grunt  of  salutation  as  we  entered  was  unusually 
cordial,  out  of  respect  no  doubt  to  Shaw's  medical  character. 
Seated  around  the  lodge  were  several  squaws,  and  an  abun- 
dance of  children.  The  complaint  of  Shaw's  patients  was, 
for  the  most  part,  a  severe  inflammation  of  the  eyes,  occa- 
sioned by  exposure  to  the  sun,  a  species  of  disorder  which  he 
treated  with  some  success.  He  had  brought  with  him  a  homeo- 
pathic medicine  chest,  and  was,  I  presume,  the  first  who 
introduced  that  harmless  system  of  treatment  among  the 
Ogallalla.  No  sooner  had  a  robe  been  spread  at  the  head  of 
the  lodge  for  our  accommodation,  and  we  had  seated  ourselves 
upon  it,  than  a  patient  made  her  appearance;  the  chief's 
daughter  herself,  who,  to  do  her  justice,  was  the  best-looking 
girl  in  the  village.  Being  on  excellent  terms  with  the  physi- 
cian, she  placed  herself  readily  under  his  hands,  and  submitted 
with  a  good  grace  to  his  applications,  laughing  in  his  face 
during  the  whole  process,  for  a  squaw  hardly  knows  how  to 
smile.  This  case  dispatched,  another  of  a  difl.'erent  kind  suc- 
ceeded. A  hideous,  emaciated  old  -woman  sat  in  the  darkest 
corner  of  the  lodge  rocking  to  and  fro  Avith  pain  and  hiding 
her  eyes  from  the  light  by  pressing  the  palms  of  both  hands 
against  her  face.  At  Smoke's  command,  she  came  forward, 
very  unwillingly,  and  exhibited  a  pair  of  eyes  that  had  nearl}'^ 
disappeared  from  excess  of  inflammation.  No  sooner  had  the 
doctor  fastened  his  gripe  upon  her  than  she  set  up  a  dismal 


94  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

moaning,  and  writhed  so  in  his  grasp  that  he  lost  all  patience, 
but  being  resolved  to  carry  his  point,  he  succeeded  at  last  in 
applying  his  favorite  remedies. 

"It  is  strange,"  he  said,  when  the  operation  was  finished, 
"that  I  forgot  to  bring  any  Spanish  flies  with  me;  we  must 
have  something  here  to  answer  for  a  counter-irritant!" 

So,  in  the  absence  of  better,  he  seized  upon  a  red-hot  brand 
from  the  fire,  and  clapped  it  against  the  temple  of  the  old 
squaw,  who  set  up  an  unearthly  howl,  at  which  the  rest  of  the 
family  broke  out  into  a  laugh. 

During  these  medical  operations  Smoke's  eldest  squaw 
entered  the  lodge,  with  a  sort  of  stone  mallet  in  her  hand.  I 
had  observed  some  time  before  a  litter  of  well-grown  black 
puppies,  comfortably  nestled  among  some  buifalo  robes  at  one 
side;  but  this  newcomer  speedily  disturbed  their  enjoyment; 
for  seizing  one  of  them  by  the  hind  paw,  she  dragged  him 
out,  and  carrying  him  to  the  entrance  of  the  lodge,  hammered 
him  on  the  head  till  she  killed  him.  Being  quite  conscious  to 
what  this  preparation  tended,  I  looked  through  a  hole  in  the 
back  of  the  lodge  to  see  the  next  steps  of  the  process.  The 
squaw,  holding  the  puppy  by  the  legs,  was  swinging  him  to 
and  fro  through  the  blaze  of  a  fire,  until  the  hair  was  singed 
off.  This  done,  she  unsheathed  her  knife  and  cut  him  into 
small  pieces,  which  she  dropped  into  a  kettle  to  boil.  In  a  few 
moments  a  large  wooden  dish  was  set  before  us,  filled  with 
this  delicate  preparation.  We  felt  conscious  of  the  honor. 
A  dog-feast  is  the  greatest  compliment  a  Dakota  can  offer  to 
his  guest;  and  knowing  that  to  refuse  eating  would  be  an 
affront,  we  attacked  the  little  dog  and  devoured  him  before 
the  eyes  of  his  unconscious  parent.  Smoke  in  the  meantime 
was  preparing  his  great  pipe.  It  was  lighted  when  we  had 
finished  our  repast,  and  we  passed  it  from  one  to  another  till 
the  bowl  was  empty.  This  done,  we  took  our  leave  without 
farther  ceremony,  knocked  at  the  gate  of  the  fort,  and  after 
making  ourselves  known  were  admitted. 

One  morning,  about  a  week  after  reaching  Fort  Laramie, 
we  were  holding  our  customary  Indian  levee,  when  a  bustle 
in  the  area  below  announced  a  new  arrival;  and  looking  down 
from  our  balcony,  I  saw  a  familiar  red  beard  and  mustache 
in  the  gateway.  They  belonged  to  the  captain,  who  with  his 
party  had  just  crossed  the  stream.  We  met  him  on  the  stairs 
as  he  came  up,  and  congratulated  him  on  the  safe  arrival  of 
himself  and  his  devoted  companions.  But  he  remembered 
our  treachery,  and  was  grave  and   dignified  accordingly;  ^ 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  95 

tendency  which  increased  as  he  observed  on  our  part  a  dispo- 
sition to  laugh  at  him.  After  remaining  an  hour  or  two  at  the 
fort  he  rode  away  with  his  friends,  and  we  have  heard  nothing 
of  him  since.  As  for  R.,  he  kept  carefully  aloof.  It  was  but 
too  evident  that  we  had  the  unhappiness  to  have  forfeited  the 
kind  regards  of  our  London  fellow-traveler. 

NOTE. 

Somewhat  more  than  a  year  from  this  time  Shaw  happened  to  be  in 
New  York,  and  coming  one  morning  down  the  steps  of  the  Astor  House, 
encountered  a  small  newsboy  with  a  bundle  of  penny  papers  under  his 
arm,  who  screamed  in  his  ear,  "  Another  great  battle  in  Mexico  !  "  Shaw 
bought  a  paper,  and  having  perused  the  glorious  intelligence,  was  look- 
ing over  the  remaining  columns,  when  the  following  paragraph  attracted 
his  notice : 

English  Traveling  Sportsmen.— Among  the  notable  arrivals  in 
town  are  two  English  gentlemen,  William  and  John  C,  Esqrs.,  at  the 
Clinton  Hotel,  on  their  return  home  after  an  extended  Buffalo  hunting 
tour  in  Oregon  and  the  wild  West.  Their  party  crossed  the  continent  in 
March.  1846,  since  when  our  travelers  have  seen  the  wonders  of  our  great 
West,  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  the  no  less  agreeable  coast  of  Western 
Mexico,  California,  and  Peru.  With  the  real  zeal  of  sportsmen  they 
have  pursued  adventure  whenever  it  has  offered,  and  returned  with  not 
only  a  correct  knowledge  of  the  West,  but  with  many  a  trophy  that 
shows  they  have  found  the  grand  sport  they  sought.  The  account  of 
Oregon  given  by  those  observing  travelers  is  most  glowing,  and  though 
upon  a  pleasure  trip,  the  advantages  to  be  realized  by  commercial  men 
have  not  been  overlooked,  and  they  prophesy  for  that  "  Western  State  " 
a  prosperity  not  exceeded  at  the  East.  The  fisheries  are  spoken  of  as  the 
best  in  the  country,  and  only  equaled  by  the  rare  facilities  for  agricul- 
ture. A  trip  like  this  now  closed  is  a  rare  undertaking,  but  as  interest- 
ing as  rare  to  those  who  are  capable  of  a  full  appreciation  of  all  the  won- 
ders that  met  them  in  the  magnificent  region  they  have  traversed. 

In  some  admiration  at  the  heroic  light  in  which  Jack  and  the  captain 
were  here  set  forth,  Shaw  pocketed  the  newspaper,  and  proceeded  to 
make  inquiry  after  his  old  fellow-travelers.  Jack  was  out  of  town,  but 
the  captain  was  quietly  established  at  his  hotel.  Except  that  the  red 
mustache  was  shorn  away,  he  was  in  all  respects  the  same  man  whom 
we  had  left  upon  the«South  Fork  of  the  Platte.  Every  recollection  of 
former  differences  had  vanished  from  his  mind,  and  he  greeted  his  visitor 
most  cordially.  "Where  is  R.?"  asked  Shaw.  "Gone  to  the  devil." 
hastily  replied  the  captain  ;  "that  is,  Jack  and  I  parted  from  him  at 
Oregon  City,  and  haven't  seen  him  since."  He  next  proceeded  to  give  an 
account  of  his  journeyings  after  leaving  us  at  Fort  Laramie.  No  sooner, 
it  seemed,  had  he  done  so,  than  he  and  Jack  began  to  slaughter  the 
buffalo  with  unrelenting  fury,  but  w4icn  they  reached  the  other  side  of 
the  South  Pass  their  rifles  were  laid  by  as  useless,  since  there  were 
neither  Indians  nor  game  to  exercise  them  upon.  From  this  point  the 
journey,  as  the  captain  expressed  it,  was  a  great  bore.  When  they 
reached  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  he  and  Jack  sailed  for  the  Sandwich 


96  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

Islands,  whence  they  proceeded  to  Panama,  across  the  Isthmus,  and 
came  by  sea  to  New  Orleans. 

Shaw  and  our  friend  spent  the  evening  together,  and  when  they 
finally  separated  at  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  the  captain's  ruddy  face 
was  ruddier  than  ever. 

CHAPTER  X. 

THE   WAK   PARTIES. 

By  the  nine  gods  he  swore  it, 

And  named  a  trysting  day. 
And  bade  his  messengers  ride  forth 
East  and  west  and  south  and  north, 

To  summon  his  array. 

Lays  op  Ancient  Rome. 

The  summer  of  1846  was  a  season  of  much  warlike  excite- 
ment among  all  the  western  bands  of  the  Dakota.  In  1845 
they  encountered  great  reverses.  Many  war  parties  had  been 
sent  out;  some  of  them  had  been  totally  cut  off,  and  others 
had  returned  broken  and  disheartened;  so  that  the  whole 
nation  was  in  mourning.  Among  the  rest,  ten  warriors  had 
gone  to  the  Snake  country,  led  by  the  son  of  a  prominent 
Ogallalla  chief,  called  The  Whirlwind.  In  passing  over 
Laramie  Plains  they  encountered  a  superior  number  of  their 
enemies,  were  surrounded,  and  killed  to  a  man.  Having  per- 
formed this  exploit  the  Snakes  became  alarmed,  dreading  the 
resentment  of  the  Dakota,  and  they  hastened  therefore  to  sig- 
nify their  wish  for  peace  by  sending  the  scalp  of  the  slain 
partisan,  together  with  a  small  parcel  of  tobacco  attached,  to 
his  tribesmen  and  relations.  They  had  employed  old  Vaskiss, 
the  trader,  as  their  messenger,  and  the  scalp  was  the  same 
that  hung  in  our  room  at  the  fort.  But  The  Whirlwind 
proved  inexorable.  Though  his  character  hardly  corresponds 
with  his  name,  he  is  nevertheless  an  Indian,  and  hates  the 
Suakes  with  his  whole  soul.  Long  before  the  scalp  arrived 
he  had  made  his  preparations  for  revenge.  He  sent  messen- 
gers with  presents  and  tobacco  to  all  the  Dakota  within  three 
hundred  miles,  proposing  a  grand  combination  to  chastise  the 
Snakes,  and  naming  a  place  and  time  of  rendezvous.  The 
plan  was  readily  adopted,  and  at  this  moment  many  villages, 
probably  embracing  in  the  whole  five  or  six  thousand  souls, 
were  slowly  creeping  over  the  prairies  and  tending  toward 
the  common  center  at  La  Bonte's  Camp,  on  the  Platte. 
Here  their  warlike  rites  were  to  be  celebrated  with  more  than 
ordinary  solemnity,  and  a  thousand  warriors,  as  it  was  said, 


THE  CALIFORNIA   AND  OREGON  TRAIL,  9V 

were  Lu  set  out  for  the  enemy's  country.  The  characteristic 
result  of  this  preparation  will  appear  in  the  sequel. 

I  was  greatly  rejoiced  to  hear  of  it.  I  had  come  into  the 
country  almost  exclusively  with  a  view  of  observing  the 
Indian  character.  Having  from  childhood  felt  a  curiosity  on 
this  subject,  and  having  failed  completely  to  gratify  it  by 
reading,  I  resolved  to  have  recourse  to  observation.  1  wished 
to  satisfy  myself  with  regard  to  the  position  of  the  Indians 
among  the  races  of  men;  the  vices  and  the  virtues  that  have 
sprung  from  their  innate  character  and  from  their  modes  of 
life,  their  government,  their  superstitions,  and  their  domes- 
tic situation.  To  accomplish  my  purpose  it  was  necessary 
to  live  in  the  midst  of  them,  and  become,  as  it  were,  one  of 
them.  I  proposed  to  join  a  village,  and  make  myself  an  in- 
mate of  one  of  their  lodges;  and  henceforward  this  narrative, 
so  far  as  I  am  concerned,  will  be  chiefly  a  record  of  the  prog- 
ress of  this  design,  apparently  so  easy  of  accomplishment, 
and  the  unexpected  impediments  that  opposed  it. 

We  resolved  on  no  account  to  miss  the  rendezvous  at  La 
Bonte's  Camp.  Our  plan  was  to  leave  Delorier  at  the  fort, 
in  charge  of  our  equipage  and  the  better  part  of  our  horses, 
while  we  took  with  us  nothing  but  our  weapons  and  the 
worst  animals  we  had.  In  all  probability  jealousies  and 
quarrels  would  arise  among  so  many  hordes  of  fierce  impul- 
sive savages,  congregated  together  under  no  common  head, 
and  many  of  them  strangers,  from  remote  prairies  and  moun- 
tains. We  were  bound  in  common  prudence  to  be  cautious 
how  we  excited  any  feeling  of  cupidity.  This  was  our  plan, 
but  unhappily  we  were  not  destined  to  visit  La  Bonte's 
Camp  in  this  manner;  for  one  morning  a  young  Indian  came 
to  the  fort  and  brought  us  evil  tidings.  The  newcomer  was 
a  dandy  of  the  first  water.  His  ugly  face  was  painted  with 
vermilion;  on  his  head  fluttered  the  tail  of  a  prairie  cock  (a 
large  species  of  pheasant,  not  found,  as  I  have  heard,  eastward 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains);  in  his  ears  were  hung  pendants  of 
shell,  and  a  flaming  red  blanket  was  wrapped  around  him. 
He  carried  a  dragoon  sword  in  his  hand,  solely  for  display, 
since  the  knife,  the  arrow,  and  the  rifle  are  the  arbiters  of 
every  prairie  fight;  but  as  no  one  in  this  country  goes  abroad 
unarmed,  the  dandy  carried  a  bow  and  arrows  in  an  otter-skin 
quiver  at  his  back.  In  this  guise,  and  bestriding  his  yellow 
horse  with  an  air  of  extreme  dignity.  The  Horse,  for  that 
was  his  name,  rode  in  at  the  gate,  turning  neither  to  the  right 
nor  the  left,  but  casting  glances  askance   at  the  groups  of 


98  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

squav/s  wlio,  with  their  mongrel  progeny,  were  sitting  in  the 
sun  before  their  doors.  The  evil  tidings  brought  by  The 
Horse  were  of  the  following  import:  The  squaw  of  Henry 
Chatillon,  a  woman  with  whom  he  had  been  connected  for 
years  by  the  strongest  ties  which  in  that  country  exist  between 
the  sexes,  was  dangerously  ill.  She  and  her  children  were  in 
the  village  of  The  Whirlwind,  at  the  distance  of  a  few  days' 
journey.  Henry  was  anxious  to  see  the  woman  before  she 
died,  and  provide  for  the  safety  and  support  of  his  children, 
of  whom  he  was  extremely  fond.  To  have  refused  him  this 
would  have  been  gross  inhumanity.  We  abandoned  our  plan 
of  joining  Smoke's  village,  and  of  proceeding  with  it  to  the 
rendezvous,  and  determined  to  meet  The  Whirlwind,  and  go 
in  his  company. 

I  had  been  slightly  ill  for  several  weeks,  but  on  the  third 
night  after  reaching  Fort  Laramie  a  violent  pain  awoke  me, 
and  I  found  myself  attacked  by  the  same  disorder  that  occa- 
sioned such  heavy  losses  to  the  army  on  the  Rio  Grande.  In 
a  day  and  a  half  1  was  reduced  to  extreme  weakness,  so  that  I 
could  not  walk  without  pain  and  effort.  Having  within  that 
time  taken  six  grains  of  opium,  without  the  least  beneficial 
effect,  and  having  no  medical  adviser,  nor  any  choice  of  diet, 
I  resolved  to  throw  myself  upon  Providence  for  recovery, 
using,  without  regard  to  the  disorder,  any  portion  of  strength 
that  might  remain  to  me.  So  on  the  20th  of  June  we  set  out 
from  Fort  Laramie  to  meet  The  Whirlwind's  village.  Though 
aided  by  the  high-bowed  "mountain  saddle,"  I  could  scarcely 
keep  my  seat  on  horseback.  Before  we  left  the  fort  we  hired 
another  man,  a  long-haired  Canadian,  with  a  face  like  an 
owl's,  contrasting  oddly  enough  with  Delorier's  mercurial 
countenance.  This  was  not  the  only  re-enforcement  to  our 
party.  A  vagrant  Indian  trader,  named  Reynal,  joined  us, 
together  with  his  squaw  Margot,  and  her  two  nephews,  our 
dandy  friend.  The  Horse,  and  his  younger  brother.  The 
Hail  Storm.  Thus  accompanied,  we  betook  ourselves  to  the 
prairie,  leaving  the  beaten  trail,  and  passing  over  the  desolate 
hills  that  flank  the  bottoms  of  Laramie  Creek.  In  all,  Indians 
and  whites,  we  counted  eight  men  and  one  woman. 

Reynal,  the  trader,  the  image  of  sleek  and  selfish  compla- 
cency, carried  The  Horse's  dragoon  sword  in  his  hand, 
delighting  apparently  in  this  useless  parade;  for,  from  spend- 
ing half  his  life  among  Indians,  he  had  caught  not  only  their 
habits  but  their  ideas.  Margot,  a  female  animal  of  more  than 
two  hundred  pounds'  weight,  was  couched  in  the  basket  of  a 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  99 

travail^  such  as  I  have  before  described ;  besides  her  ponderous 
bulk,  various  domestic  utensils  were  attached  to  the  vehicle, 
and  she  was  leading  by  a  trail-rope  a  packhorse,  who  carried 
the  covering  of  Reynal's  lodge.  Delorier  walked  briskly  by 
the  side  of  the  cart,  and  Raymond  came  behind,  swearing  at 
the  spare  horses,  which  it  was  his  business  to  drive.  The  rest- 
less young  Indians,  their  quivers  at  their  backs  and  their  bows 
in  their  hands,  galloped  over  the  hills,  often  starting  a  wolf  or 
an  antelope  from  the  thick  growth  of  wild-sage  bushes.  Shaw 
and  I  were  in  keeping  with  the  rest  of  the  rude  calvalcade, 
having  in  the  absence  of  other  clothing  adopted  the  buckskin 
attire  of  the  trappers.  Henry  Chatillon  rode  in  advance  of 
the  whole.  Thus  we  passed  hill  after  hill  and  hollow  after 
hollow,  a  country  arid,  broken,  and  so  parched  by  the  sun  that 
none  of  the  plants  familiar  to  our  more  favored  soil  would 
flourish  upon  it,  though  there  were  multitudes  of  strange 
medicinal  herbs,  more  especially  the  absanth,  which  covered 
every  declivity,  and  cacti  were  hanging  like  reptiles  at  the 
edges  of  every  ravine.  At  length  we  ascended  a  high  hill, 
our  horses  treading  upon  pebbles  of  flint,  agate,  and  rough 
jasper,  until,  gaining  the  top,  we  looked  down  on  the  wild 
bottoms  of  Laramie  Creek,  which  far  below  us  wound  like  a 
writhing  snake  from  side  to  side  of  the  narrow  interval,  amid 
a  growth  of  shattered  cotton-wood  and  ash  trees.  Lines  of 
tall  cliffs,  white  as  chalk,  shut  in  this  green  strip  of  woods 
and  meadow  land,  into  which  we  descended  and  encamped  for 
the  night.  In  the  morning  we  passed  a  wide  grassy  plain  by 
the  river;  there  Avas  a  grove  in  front,  and  beneath  its  shadows 
the  ruins  of  an  old  trading  fort  of  logs.  The  grove  bloomed 
with  myriads  of  wild  roses,  with  their  sweet  perfume  fraught 
with  recollections  of  home.  As  we  emerged  from  the  trees,  a 
rattlesnake,  as  large  as  a  man's  arm,  and  more  than  four  feet 
long,  lay  coiled  on  a  rock,  fiercely  rattling  and  hissing  at  us;  a 
gray  hare,  double  the  size  of  those  of  New  England,  leaped  u]) 
from  the  tall  ferns;  curlew  were  screaming  over  our  heads,  and 
a  whole  host  of  little  prairie  dogs  sat  yelping  at  us  at  the  mouths 
of  their  burrows  on  the  dry  plain  beyond.  Suddenly'  an  ante- 
lope leaped  up  from  the  wild-sage  bushes,  gazed  eagerly  at  us, 
and  then,  erecting  his  white  tail,  stretched  away  like  a  grey- 
hound. The  two  Indian  boys  found  a  white  wolf,  as  large  as 
a  calf,  in  a  hollow,  and  giving  a  sharp  yell,  they  galloped  after 
him;  but  the  wolf  leaped  into  the  stream  and  swam  across. 
Then  came  the  crack  of  a  rifle,  the  bullet  whistling  harmlessly 
over  his  head,  as  he  scrambled  up  the  steep  declivity,  rattling 


100  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

down  stones  and  earth  into  the  water  below.  Advancing  a 
little,  we  beheld  on  the  farther  bank  of  the  stream  a  spectacle 
not  common  even  in  that  region;  for,  emerging  from  among 
the  trees,  a  herd  of  some  two  hundred  elk  came  out  upon  the 
meadow,  their  antlers  clattering  as  they  walked  forward  in 
a  dense  throng.  Seeing  us,  they  broke  into  a  run,  rushing 
across  ths  opening  and  disappearing  among  the  trees  and  scat- 
tered groves.  On  our  left  was  a  barren  prairie,  stretching  to 
the  horizon ;  on  our  right,  a  deep  gulf,  with  Laramie  Creek 
at  the  bottom.  We  found  ourselves  at  length  at  the  edge  of 
a  steep  descent;  a  narrow  valley,  with  long  rank  grass  and 
scattered  trees  stretching  before  us  for  a  mile  or  more  along 
the  course  of  the  stream.  Reaching  the  farther  end,  we 
stopped  and  encamped.  An  old  huge  cotton-wood  tree  spread 
its  branches  horizontally  over  our  tent.  Laramie  Creek,  cir- 
cling before  our  camp,  half  inclosed  us;  it  swept  along  the 
bottom  of  a  line  of  tall  white  cliffs  that  looked  down  on  us 
from  the  farther  bank.  There  were  dense  copses  on  our  right ; 
the  cliffs,  too,  were  half  hidden  by  shrubbery,  though  behind 
us  a  few  cotton-wood  trees,  dotting  the  green  prairie,  alone 
impeded  the  view,  and  friend  or  enemy  could  be  discerned  in 
that  direction  at  a  mile's  distance.  Here  we  resolved  to 
remain  and  await  the  arrival  of  The  Whirlwind,  who  would 
certainly  pass  this  way  in  his  progress  toward  La  Bonte's 
Camp.  To  go  in  search  of  him  was  not  expedient,  both  on 
account  of  the  broken  and  impracticable  nature  of  the  country 
and  the  uncertainty  of  his  position  and  movements;  besides, 
our  horses  were  almost  worn  out,  and  I  was  in  no  condition 
to  travel.  We  had  good  grass,  good  water,  tolerable  fish 
from  the  stream,  and  plenty  of  smaller  game,  such  as  antelope 
and  deer,  though  no  buffalo.  There  was  one  little  drawback 
to  our  satisfaction — a  certain  extensive  tract  of  bushes  and 
dried  grass,  just  behind  us,  which  it  was  by  no  means  advis- 
able to  enter,  since  it  sheltered  a  numerous  brood  of  rattle- 
snakes. Henry  Chatillon  again  dispatched  The  Horse  to  the 
village,  with  a  message  to  his  squaw  that  she  and  her  rela- 
tives should  leave  the  rest  and  push  on  as  rapidly  as  possible 
to  our  camp. 

Our  daily  routine  soon  became  as  regular  as  that  of  a  well- 
ordered  household.  The  weather-beaten  old  tree  was  in  the 
center;  our  rifles  generally  rested  against  its  vast  trunk,  and 
our  saddles  were  flung  on  the  ground  around  it;  its  distorted 
roots  were  so  twisted  as  to  form  one  or  two  convenient  arm- 
chairs, where  we  could  sit  in  the  shade  and  read  or  smoke; 


THE  CALIFOliNIA  AJSD  OREGON  TRAIL.  101 

but  meal-times  became,  on  the  whole,  the  most  interesting 
hours  of  the  day,  and  a  bountiful  provision  was  made  for  them. 
An  antelope  or  a  deer  usually  swung  from  a  stout  bough,  and 
haunches  were  suspended  against  the  trunk.  That  camp  is 
daguerreotyped  on  my  memory;  the  old  tree,  the  white  tent, 
with  Shaw  sleeping  in  the  shadow  of  it,  and  ReynaPs  miser- 
able lodge  close  by  the  bank  of  the  stream.  It  was  a  wretched 
oven-shaped  structure,  made  of  begrimed  and  tattered  buffalo 
hides  stretched  over  a  frame  of  poles;  one  side  was  open,  and 
at  the  side  of  the  opening  hung  the  powder  horn  and  bullet 
pouch  of  the  owner,  together  with  his  long  red  pipe,  and  a 
rich  quiver  of  otter-skin,  with  a  bow  and  arrows;  for  Reynal, 
an  Indian  in  most  things  but  color,  choose  to  hunt  buffalo  with 
these  primitive  weapons.  In  the  darkness  of  this  cavernlike 
habitation,  might  be  discerned  Madame  Margot,  her  overgrown 
bulk  stowed  away  among  her  domestic  implements,  furs,  robes, 
blankets,  and  painted  cases  oi par''  Jlhche^  in  which  dried  meat 
is  kept.  Here  she  sat  from  sunrise  to  sunset,  a  bloated  imper- 
sonation of  gluttony  and  laziness,  while  her  affectionate  pro- 
prietor was  smoking,  or  begging  petty  gifts  from  us,  or  telling 
lies  concerning  his  own  achievements,  or  perchance  engaged 
in  the  more  profitable  occupation  of  cooking  some  preparation 
of  prairie  delicacies.  Rej^nal  was  an  adept  at  this  work;  he 
and  Delorier  have  joined  forces,  and  are  hard  at  work  together 
over  the  fire,  while  Raymond  spreads,  by  way  of  tablecloth, 
a  buffalo  hide  carefully  whitened  with  pipeclay,  on  the  grass 
before  the  tent.  Here,  with  ostentatious  display,  he  arranges 
the  teacups  and  plates;  and  then,  creeping  on  all  fours,  like  a 
dog,  he  thrusts  his  head  in  at  the  opening  of  the  tent.  For  a 
moment  we  see  his  round  owlish  eyes  rolling  wildly,  as  if  the 
idea  he  came  to  communicate  had  suddenly  escaped  him;  then 
collecting  his  scattered  thoughts,  as  if  \>j  an  effort,  he  informs 
us  that  supper  is  ready,  and  instantly  withdraws. 

When  sunset  came,  and  at  that  hour  the  wild  and  desolate 
scene  would  assume  a  new  aspect,  the  horses  were  driven  in. 
They  had  been  grazing  all  day  in  the  neighboring  meadow,  but 
now  they  were  picketed  close  about  the  camp.  As  the  prairie 
darkened  we  sat  and  conversed  around  the  fire,  until  becoming 
drowsy  we  spread  our  saddles  on  the  ground,  wrapped  our 
blankets  around  us  and  lay  down.  We  never  placed  a  guard, 
having  by  this  time  become  too  indolent;  but  Henry  C'ha- 
tillon  folded  his  loaded  rifle  in  the  same  blanket  with  himself, 
observing  that  he  always  took  it  to  bed  with  him  when  he 
camped  in  that  place.     Henry  was  too  bold  a  man  to  use  such 


102  THE  CALIFOBNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

a  precaution  without  good  cause.  We  had  a  hint  now  and 
then  that  our  situation  was  none  of  the  safest;  several  Crow 
war  parties  were  known  to  be  in  the  vicinit3^  and  one  of  them, 
that  passed  here  some  time  before,  had  peeled  the  bark  from 
a  neighboring  tree,  and  engraved  upon  the  white  wood  certain 
hieroglyphics,  to  signify  that  they  had  invaded  the  territories 
of  their  enemies,  the  Dakota,  and  set  them  at  defiance.  One 
morning  a  thick  mist  covered  the  whole  countrj^  Shaw  and 
Henry  went  out  to  ride,  and  soon  came  back  with  a  startling 
piece  of  intelligence;  they  had  found  within  rifle-shot  of  our 
camp  the  recent  trail  of  about  thirty  horsemen.  They  could 
not  be  whites,  and  they  could  not  be  Dakota,  since  we  knew 
no  such  parties  to  be  in  the  neighborhood;  therefore  thej^ 
must  be  Crows.  Thanks  to  that  friendly  mist,  we  had  escaped 
a  hard  battle ;  they  would  inevitably  have  attacked  us  and  our 
Indian  companions  had  they  seen  our  camp.  Whatever  doubts 
we  might  have  entertained,  were  quite  removed  a  day  or  two 
after,  by  two  or  three  Dakota,  who  came  to  us  with  an  account 
of  having  hidden  in  a  ravine  on  that  very  morning,  from 
whence  they  saw  and  counted  the  Crows;  they  said  that  they 
followed  them,  carefully  keeping  out  of  sight,  as  they  passed 
up  Chugwater;  that  here  the  Crows  discovered  five  dead 
bodies  of  Dakota,  placed  according  to  the  national  custom 
in  trees,  and  flinging  them  to  the  ground,  they  held  their 
guns  against  them  and  blew  them  to  atoms. 

If  our  camp  were  not  altogether  safe,  still  it  was  comfort- 
able enough;  at  least  it  was  so  to  Shaw,  for  I  was  tormented 
with  illness  and  vexed  by  the  delay  in  the  accomplishment  of 
my  designs.  When  a  respite  in  my  disorder  gave  me  some 
returning  strength,  I  rode  out  well  armed  upon  the  prairie,  or 
bathed  with  Shaw  in  the  stream,  or  waged  a  petty  warfare 
with  the  inhabitants  of  a  neighboring  prairie-dog  village. 
Around  our  fire  at  night  we  employed  ourselves  in  inveighing 
against  the  fickleness  and  inconstancy  of  Indians,  and  execrat- 
ing The  Whirlwind  and  all  his  village.  At  last  the  thing 
grew  insufferable. 

"To-morrow  morning,"  said  I,  "I  will  start  for  the  fort, 
and  see  if  I  can  hear  any  news  there."  Late  that  evening, 
when  the  fire  had  sunk  low,  and  all  the  camp  were  asleep,  a 
loud  cry  sounded  from  the  darkness.  Henry  started  up, 
recognized  the  voice,  replied  to  it,  and  our  dandy  friend. 
The  Horse,  rode  in  among  us,  just  returned  from  his  mission 
to  the  village.  He  coolly  picketed  his  mare,  without  saying 
a  word,  sat  down  by  the  fire  and  began  to  eat,  but  his  imper- 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL  103 

turbable  philosophy  was  loo  much  for  our  patience.  Where 
was  the  village?  about  fifty  miles  south  of  us;  it  was  moving 
slowly  and  would  not  arrive  in  less  than  a  week 3  and  where 
was  Henry's  squaw?  coming  as  fast  as  she  could  with  Mahto- 
Tatonka,  and  the  rest  of  her  brothers,  but  she  would  never 
reach  us,  for  she  was  dying,  and  asking  every  moment  for 
Henry.  Henry's  manly  face  became  clouded  and  down- 
cast; he  said  that  if  we  were  willing  he  would  go  in  the 
morning  to  find  her,  at  which  Shaw  offered  to  accompany 
him. 

We  saddled  our  horses  at  sunrise.  Reynal  protested 
vehemently  against  being  left  alone,  with  nobody  but  the  two 
Canadians  and  the  young  Indians,  when  enemies  were  in  the 
neighborhood.  Disregarding  his  complaints,  we  left  him,  and 
coming  to  the  mouth  of  Chugwater,  separated,  Shaw  and 
Henry  turning  to  the  right,  up  the  bank  of  the  stream,  while 
I  made  for  the  fort. 

Taking  leave  for  a  while  of  my  friend  and  the  unfortunate 
squaw,  I  will  relate  by  way  of  episode  what  I  saw  and  did  at 
Fort  Laramie.  It  was  not  more  than  eighteen  miles  distant, 
and  I  reached  it  in  three  hours;  a  shriveled  little  figure, 
wrapped  from  head  to  foot  in  a  dingy  white  Canadian  capote, 
stood  in  the  gateway,  holding  by  a  cord  of  bull's  hide  a 
shaggy  wild  horse,  which  he  had  lately  caught.  His  sharp 
prominent  features,  and  his  little  keen  snakelike  eyes,  looked 
out  from  beneath  the  shadowy  hood  of  the  capote,  which  was 
drawn  over  his  head  exactly  like  the  cowl  of  a  Capuchin  friar. 
His  face  was  extremely  thin  and  like  an  old  piece  of  leather, 
and  his  mouth  spread  from  ear  to  ear.  Extending  his  long 
wiry  hand,  he  welcomed  me  with  something  more  cordial  than 
the  ordinary  cold  salute  of  an  Indian,  for  we  were  excellent 
friends.  He  had  made  an  exchange  of  horses  to  our  mutual 
advantage;  and  Paul,  thinking  himself  well-treated,  had  de- 
clared everywhere  that  the  white  man  had  a  good  heart.  He 
was  a  Dakota  from  the  Missouri,  a  reputed  son  of  the  half- 
breed  interpreter,  Pierre  Dorion,  so  often  mentioned  in  Irv- 
ing's  "Astoria."  He  said  that  he  was  going  to  Richard's 
trading  house  to  sell  his  horse  to  some  emigrants  who  were 
encamped  there,  and  asked  me  to  go  with  him.  We  forded 
the  stream  together,  Paul  dragging  his  wild  charge  behind 
him.  As  we  passed  over  the  sandy  plains  beyond,  he  grew 
quite  communicative.  Paul  was  a  cosmopolitan  in  his  way; 
he  had  been  to  the  settlements  of  the  whites,  and  visited  in 
peace  and  war  most  of  the  tribes  within  the  range  of  a  thou- 


104  THE  CALlFonmA  AND  OBEOON  TRAIL. 

sand  miles.  He  spoke  a  jargon  of  French  and  anothei*  of 
English,  yet  nevertheless  he  was  a  thorough  Indian;  and  as 
he  told  of  the  bloody  deeds  of  his  own  people  against  their 
enemies,  his  little  eye  would  glitter  with  a  fierce  luster.  He 
told  how  the  Dakota  exterminated  a  village  of  the  Hohays  on 
the  Upper  Missouri,  slaughtering  men,  women,  and  children; 
and  how  an  overwhelming  force  of  them  cut  off  sixteen  of  the 
brave  Delawares,  who  fought  like  wolves  to  the  last,  amid  the 
throng  of  their  enemies.  He  told  me  also  another  story, 
which  I  did  not  believe  until  I  had  heard  it  confirmed  from 
so  many  independent  sources  that  no  room  was  left  for  doubt. 
I  am  tempted  to  introduce  it  here. 

Six  years  ago  a  fellow  named  Jim  Beckwith,  a  mongrel  of 
French,  American,  and  negro  blood,  was  trading  for  the  Fur 
Company,  in  a  very  large  village  of  the  Crows.  Jim  Beck- 
with was  last  summer  at  St.  Louis.  He  is  a  ruffian  of  the 
first  stamp ;  bloody  and  treacherous,  without  honor  or  honesty ; 
such  at  least  is  the  character  he  bears  upon  the  prairie.  Yet 
in  his  case  all  the  standard  rules  of  character  fail,  for  though 
he  will  stab  a  man  in  his  sleep,  he  will  also  perform  most  des- 
perate acts  of  daring;  such,  for  instance,  as  the  following: 
While  he  was  in  the  Crow  village,  a  Blackfoot  war  party, 
between  thirty  and  forty  in  number,  came  stealing  through 
the  country,  killing  stragglers  and  carrying  off  horses.  The 
Crow  warriors  got  upon  their  trail  and  pressed  them  so  closely 
that  thej^  could  not  escape,  at  which  the  Blackfeet,  throwing 
up  a  semicircular  breastwork  of  logs  at  the  foot  of  a  precipice, 
coolly  awaited  their  approach.  The  logs  and  sticks,  piled  four 
or  five  feet  high,  protected  them  in  front.  The  Crows  might 
have  swept  over  the  breastwork  and  exterminated  their 
enemies;  but  though  outnumbering  them  tenfold,  tbey  did 
not  dream  of  storming  the  little  fortification.  Such  a  pro- 
ceeding would  be  altogether  repugnant  to  their  notions  of 
warfare.  Whooping  and  yelling,  and  jumping  from  side  to 
side  like  devils  incarnate,  they  showered  bullets  and  arrows 
upon  the  logs;  not  a  Blackfoot  was  hurt,  but  several  Crows, 
in  spite  of  their  leaping  and  dodging,  were  shot  down.  In 
this  childish  manner  the  fight  went  on  for  an  hour  or  two. 
Now  and  then  a  Crow  warrior  in  an  ecstasy  of  valor  and  vain- 
glory would  scream  forth  his  war  song,  boasting  himself  the 
bravest  and  greatest  of  mankind,  and  grasping  his  hatchet, 
would  rush  up  and  strike  it  upon  the  breastwork,  and  then  as 
he  retreated  to  his  companions,  fall  dead  under  a  shower  of 
arrows;  yet  no  combined  attack  seemed  to  be  dreamed  of. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  105 

The  Blackfeet  remained  secure  in  their  intrenchment.  At  last 
Jim  Beck  with  lost  patience. 

"You  are  all  fools  and  old  women,"  he  said  to  the  Crows; 
"come  with  me,  if  any  of  you  are  brave  enough,  and  I  will 
show  you  how  to  fight." 

He  threw  off  his  trapper's  frock  of  buckskin  and  stripped 
himself  naked  like  the  Indians  themselves.  He  left  his  rifle  on 
the  ground,  and  taking  in  his  hand  a  small  light  hatchet,  he 
ran  over  the  prairie  to  the  right,  concealed  by  a  hollow  from 
the  eyes  of  the  Blackfeet.  Then  climbing  up  the  rocks,  he 
gained  the  top  of  the  precipice  behind  them.  Forty  or  fifty 
young  Crow  warriors  followed  him.  By  the  cries  and  whoops 
that  rose  from  below  he  knew  that  the  Blackfeet  were  just 
beneath  him;  and  running  forward,  he  leaped  down  the  rock 
into  the  midst  of  them.  As  he  fell  he  caught  one  by  the  long 
loose  hair  and  dragging  him  down  tomahawked  him;  then 
grasping  another  by  the  belt  at  his  waist,  he  struck  him  also 
a  stunning  blow,  and  gaining  his  feet,  shouted  the  Crow  war 
cry.  He  swung  his  hatchet  so  fiercely  around  him  that  the 
astonished  Blackfeet  bore  back  and  gave  him  room.  He 
might,  had  he  chosen,  have  leaped  over  the  breastwork  and 
escaped;  but  this  was  not  necessary,  for  with  devilish  yells 
the  Crow  warriors  came  dropping  in  quick  succession  over  the 
rock  among  their  enemies.  The  main  body  of  the  Crows,  too, 
answered  the  cry  from  the  front,  and  rushed  up  simultaneously. 
The  convulsive  struggle  within  the  breastwork  was  frightful; 
for  an  instant  the  Blackfeet  fought  and  yelled  like  pent-up 
tigers;  but  the  butchery  was  soon  complete,  and  the  mangled 
bodies  lay  piled  up  together  under  the  precipice.  Not  a 
Blackfoot  made  his  escape. 

As  Paul  finished  his  story  we  came  in  sight  of  Richard's 
fort.  It  stood  in  the  middle  of  the  plain;  a  disorderly  crowd 
of  men  around  it,  and  an  emigrant  camp  a  little  in  front. 

"Now,  Paul,"  said  I,  "where  are  your  Minnicongew 
lodges?" 

"Not  come  yet,"  said  Paul  "may  be  come  to-raorrow." 

Two  large  villages  of  a  band  of  Dakota  had  come  three 
hundred  miles  from  the  Missouri,  to  join  in  the  war,  and  they 
were  expected  to  reach  Richard's  that  morning.  There  was 
as  yet  no  sign  of  their  approach;  so  pushing  through  a  noisy, 
drunken  crowd,  I  entered  an  apartment  of  logs  and  mud,  the 
largest  in  the  fort;  it  was  full  of  men  of  various  races  and  com- 
plexions, all  more  or  less  drunk.  A  company  of  Cnlifornia 
emigrants,  it  seemed,  had  made  the  discovery  at  this  late  day 


106  THE  CALIFOBNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

that  they  had  encumbered  themselves  with  too  many  supplies 
for  their  journey.  A  part,  therefore,  they  had  thrown  away 
or  sold  at  great  loss  to  the  traders,  but  had  determined  to  get 
rid  of  their  very  copious  stock  of  Missouri  whisky,  by  drink- 
ing it  on  the  spot.  Here  were  maudlin  squaws  stretched  on 
piles  of  buffalo  robes;  squalid  Mexicans,  armed  with  bows 
and  arrows;  Indians  sedately  drunk;  long-haired  Canadians 
and  trappers,  and  American  backwoodsmen  in  brown  home- 
spun, the  well-beloved  pistol  and  bowie  knife  displayed 
openly  at  their  sides.  In  the  middle  of  the  room  a  tall,  lank 
man,  with  a  dingy  broadcloth  coat,  was  haranguing  the  com- 
pany in  the  style  of  the  stump  orator.  With  one  hand  he 
sawed  the  air,  and  with  the  other  clutched  firmly  a  brown  jug 
of  whisky,  which  he  applied  every  moment  to  his  lips,  forget- 
ting that  he  had  drained  the  contents  long  ago.  Richard 
formally  introduced  me  to  this  personage,  who  was  no  less  a 
man  than  Colonel  R.,  once  the  leader  of  the  party.  Instantly 
the  colonel  seizing  me,  in  the  absence  of  buttons,  by  the 
leather  fringes  of  my  frock,  began  to  define  his  position.  His 
men,  he  said,  had  mutinied  and  deposed  him;  but  still  he 
exercised  over  them  the  influence  of  a  superior  mind;  in  all 
but  the  name  he  was  yet  their  chief.  As  the  colonel  spoke, 
I  looked  round  on  the  wild  assemblage,  and  could  not  help 
thinking  that  he  was  but  ill  qualified  to  conduct  such  men 
across  the  desert  to  California.  Conspicuous  among  the  rest 
stood  three  tall  young  men,  grandsons  of  Daniel  Boone. 
They  had  clearly  inherited  the  adventurous  character  of  that 
prince  of  pioneers ;  but  I  saw  no  signs  of  the  quiet  and  tranquil 
spirit  that  so  remarkably  distinguished  him. 

Fearful  was  the  fate  that  months  after  overtook  some  of  the 
members  of  that  party.  General  Kearny,  on  his  late  return 
from  California,  brought  in  the  account  how  they  were  inter- 
rupted by  the  deep  snows  among  the  mountains,  and  maddened 
by  cold  and  hunger  fed  upon  each  other's  flesh ! 

I  got  tired  of  the  confusion.  "Come,  Paul,"  said  I,  "we 
will  be  off."  Paul  sat  in  the  sun,  under  the  wall  of  the  fort. 
He  jumped  up,  mounted,  and  we  rode  toward  Fort  Laramie. 
When  we  reached  it,  a  man  came  out  of  the  gate  with  a  pack 
at  his  back  and  a  rifle  on  his  shoulder;  others  were  gathering 
about  him,  shaking  him  by  the  hand,  as  if  taking  leave.  I 
thought  it  a  strange  thing  that  a  man  should  set  out  alone  and 
on  foot  for  the  prairie.  I  soon  got  an  explanation.  Perrault 
— this,  if  I  recollect  right,  was  the  Canadian's  name — had 
quarreled  with  the  bourgeois,  and  the  fort  was  too  hot  to  hold 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  107 

him.  Bordeaux,  inflated  with  his  transient  authority,  had 
abused  hira,  and  received  a  blow  in  return.  The  men  then 
sprang  at  each  other,  and  grappled  in  the  middle  of  the  fort. 
Bordeaux  was  down  in  an  instant,  at  the  mercy  of  the  incensed 
Canadian;  had  not  an  old  Indian,  the  brother  of  his  squaw, 
seized  hold  of  his  antagonist,  he  would  have  fared  ill.  Per- 
rault  broke  loose  from  the  old  Indian,  and  both  the  white  men 
ran  to  their  rooms  for  their  guns;  but  when  Bordeaux,  look- 
ing from  his  door,  saw  the  Canadian,  gun  in  hand,  standing 
in  the  area  and  calling  on  him  to  come  out  and  fight,  his  heart 
failed  him;  he  chose  to  remain  where  he  was.  In  vain  the 
old  Indian,  scandalized  by  his  brother-in-law's  cowardice, 
called  upon  him  to  go  upon  the  prairie  and  fight  it  out  in  the 
white  man's  manner;  and  Bordeaux's  own  squaw,  equally  in- 
censed, screamed  to  her  lord  and  master  that  he  was  a  dog 
and  an  old  woman.  It  all  availed  nothing.  Bordeaux's 
prudence  got  the  better  of  his  valor,  and  he  would  not 
stir.  Perrault  stood  showering  opprobrious  epithets  at 
the  recreant  bourgeois.  Growing  tired  of  this,  he  made 
up  a  pack  of  dried  meat,  and  slinging  it  at  his  back, 
set  out  alone  for  Fort  Pierre  on  the  Missouri,  a  distance 
of  three  hundred  miles,  over  a  desert  country  full  of  hostile 
Indians. 

I  remained  in  the  fort  that  night.  In  the  morning,  as  I 
was  coming  out  from  breakfast,  conversing  with  a  trader 
named  McCluskey,  I  saw  a  strange  Indian  leaning  against  the 
side  of  the  gate.     He  was  a  tall,  strong  man,  with  heavy 

"Who  is  he?"  I  asked.  "That's  The  Whirlwind,"  said 
McCluskey.  "He  is  the  fellow  that  made  all  this  stir  about 
the  war.  It's  always  the  wa}'^  with  the  Sioux;  they  never 
stop  cutting  each  other's  throats;  it's  all  they  are  fit  for;  in- 
stead of  sitting  in  their  lodges,  and  getting  robes  to  trade 
with  us  in  the  winter.  If  this  war  goes  on,  we'll  make  a 
poor  trade  of  it  next  season,  I  reckon." 

And  this  was  the  opinion  of  all  the  traders,  who  were  ve- 
hemently opposed  to  the  war,  from  the  serious  injury  that  it 
must  occasion  to  their  interests.  The  Whirlwind  left  his 
village  the  day  before  to  make  a  visit  to  the  fort.  His  war- 
like ardor  had  abated  not  a  little  since  he  first  conceived  the 
design  of  avenging  his  son's  death.  The  long  and  compli- 
cated preparations  for  the  expedition  were  too  much  for 
his  fickle,  inconstant  disposition.  That  morning  Bordeaux 
fastened  upon  him,  made  him  presents,  and  told  him  that  if 


108  THE  GALIFOttNlA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

he  went  to  war  he  would  destroy  his  horses  and  kill  no  buffalo 
to  trade  with  the  white  men;  in  short,  that  he  was  a  fool  to 
think  of  such  a  thing,  and  had  better  make  up  his  mind  to 
sit  quietly  in  his  lodge  and  smoke  his  pipe,  like  a  wise  man. 
The  Whirlwind's  purpose  was  evidently  shaken;  he  had  be- 
come tired,  like  a  child,  of  his  favorite  plan.  Bordeaux  ex- 
ultingly  predicted  that  he  would  not  go  to  war.  My  philan- 
thropy at  that  time  was  no  match  for  my  curiosity,  and  I  was 
vexed  at  the  possibility  that  after  all  I  might  lose  the  rare 
opportunity  of  seeing  the  formidable  ceremonies  of  war. 
The  Whirlwind,  however,  had  merely  thrown  the  firebrand; 
the  conflagration  was  become  general.  All  the  western  bands 
of  the  Dakota  were  bent  on  war;  and  as  I  heard  from 
McCluskey,  six  large  villages  were  already  gathered  on  a  little 
stream,  forty  miles  distant,  and  were  daily  calling  to  the 
Great  Spirit  to  aid  them  in  their  enterprise.  McCluskey  had 
just  left  them  and  represented  them  as  on  their  Avay  to  La 
Bonte's  Camp,  which  they  would  reach  in  a  week,  unless  they 
should  learn  that  there  were  no  buffalo  there.  I  did  not  like 
this  condition,  for  buff'alo  this  season  were  rare  in  the 
neighborhood.  There  were  also  the  two  Minnicongew  vil- 
lages that  1  mentioned  before;  but  about  noon,  an  Indian 
came  from  Richard's  Fort  with  the  news  that  they  were  quar- 
reling, breaking  up,  and  dispersing.  So  much  for  the  whisky 
of  the  emigrants !  Finding  themselves  unable  to  drink  the 
whole,  they  had  sold  the  residue  to  these  Indians,  and  it 
needed  no  prophet  to  foretell  the  result ;  a  spark  dropped  into  a 
powder  magazine  would  not  have  produced  a  quicker  effect. 
Instantly  the  old  jealousies  and  rivalries  and  smothered  feuds 
that  exist  in  an  Indian  village  broke  out  into  furious  quarrels. 
They  forgot  the  warlike  enterprise  that  had  already  brought 
them  three  hundred  miles.  They  seemed  like  ungovorned 
children  inflamed  with  the  fiercest  passions  of  men.  Several 
of  them  were  stabbed  in  the  drunken  tumult;  and  in  the  morn- 
ing they  scattered  and  moved  back  toward,  the  Missouri  in 
small  parties.  I  feared  thaO,  after  all,  the  long-projected 
meeting  and  the  ceremonies  that  were  to  attend  it  might  never 
take  place,  and  I  should  lose  so  admirable  an  opportunity  of 
seeing  the  Indian  under  his  most  fearful  and  characteristic  as- 
pect; however,  in  foregoing  this,  I  should  avoid  a  very  fair 
probability  of  being  plundered  and  stripped,  and,  it  might  be, 
stabbed  or  shot  into  the  bargain.  Consoling  myself  with  this 
reflection,  I  prepared  to  carry  the  news,  such  as  it  was,  to  the 
camp. 


THE  CALIFORmA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  100 

I  caught  my  horse,  and  to  ray  vexation  found  he  had  lost  a 
shoe  and  broken  his  tender  white  hoof  against  the  rocks. 
Horses  are  shod  at  Fort  Laramie  at  the  moderate  rate  of 
three  dollars  a  foot ;  so  I  tied  Hendrick  to  a  beam  in  the  corral, 
and  summoned  Roubidou,  the  blacksmith.  Roubidou,  with 
the  hoof  between  his  knees,  was  at  work  with  hammer  and  file, 
and  I  was  inspecting  the  process,  when  a  strange  voice  ad- 
dressed me. 

"Two  more  gone  under!  Well,  there  is  more  of  us  left 
yet.  Here's  Jean  Gars  and  me  off  to  the  mountains  to-mor- 
row. Our  turn  will  come  next,  I  suj^pose.  It's  a  hard  life, 
anyhow !" 

I  looked  up  and  saw  a  little  man,  not  much  more  than  five 
feet  high,  but  of  very  square  and  strong  proportions.  In 
appearance  he  was  particularly  dingy;  for  his  old  buckskin 
frock  was  black  and  polished  with  time  and  grease,  and  his 
belt,  knife,  pouch,  and  powder-horn  appeared  to  have  seen  the 
roughest  service.  The  first  joint  of  each  foot  was  entirely 
gone,  having  been  frozen  off  several  winters  before,  and  his 
moccasins  were  curtailed  in  proportion.  His  whole  appear- 
ance and  equipment  bespoke  the  "free  trapper.'-  He  had  a 
round  ruddy  face,  animated  with  a  spirit  of  carelessness  and 
gayety  not  at  all  in  accordance  with  the  words  he  had  just 
spoken. 

"  *Two  more  gone,'  "  said  I;  "what  do  you  mean  by  that?" 

"  Oh,"  said  he,  "  the  Arapahoes  have  just  killed  two  of  us  in 
the  mountains.  Old  Bull-Tail  has  come  to  tell  us.  They 
stabbed  one  behind  his  back,  and  shot  the  other  with  his  own 
rifle.  That's  the  way  we  live  here !  I  mean  to  give  up  trap- 
ping after  this  year.  My  squaw  says  she  wants  a  pacing 
horse  and  some  red  ribbons;  I'll  make  enough  beaver  to  get 
them  for  her,  and  then  I'm  done !  I'll  go  below  and  live  on  a 
farm." 

"  Your  bones  will  dry  on  the  prairie,  Rouleau !"  said  another 
trapper,  who  was  standing  by ;  a  strong,  brutal-looking  fellow, 
with  a  face  as  surly  as  a  bull-dog's. 

Rouleau  only  laughed,  and  began  to  hum  a  tune  and  shuffle 
a  dance  on  his  stumps  of  feet. 

"You'll  see  us,  before  long,  passing  up  your  way,"  said  the 
other  man. 

"Well,"  said  I,  "stop  and  take  a  cup  of  coffee  with  us;" 
and  as  it  was  quite  late  in  the  afternoon,  I  prepared  to  leave 
the  fort  at  once. 

As  I  rode  out,  a  train  of  emigrant  wagons  was  passing 


no  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

across  the  stream.  "Wharare  ye  goin',  stranger?"  Thus 
I  was  saluted  by  two  or  three  voices  at  once. 

"About  eighteen  miles  up  the  creek." 

"It's  mighty  late  to  be  going  that  far!  Make  haste,  ye'd 
better,  and  keep  a  bright  lookout  for  Indians !" 

I  thought  the  advice  too  good  to  be  neglected.  Fording 
the  stream,  I  passed  at  a  round  trot  over  the  plains  beyond. 
But  "the  more  haste,  the  worse  speed."  I  proved  the  truth 
of  the  proverb  by  the  time  I  reached  the  hills  three  miles  from 
the  fort.  The  trail  was  faintly  marked,  and  riding  forward 
with  more  rapidity  than  caution,  I  lost  sight  of  it.  I  kept  on 
in  a  direct  line,  guided  by  Laramie  Creek,  which  I  could  see 
at  intervals  darkly  glistening  in  the  evening  sun,  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  woody  gulf  on  my  right.  Half  an  hour  before 
sunset  I  came  upon  its  banks.  There  was  something  exciting 
in  the  wild  solitude  of  the  place.  An  antelope  sprang  sud- 
denly from  the  sage-bushes  before  me.  As  he  leaped  grace- 
fully not  thirty  yards  before  my  horse,  I  fired,  and  instantly 
he  spun  round  and  fell.  Quite  sure  of  him,  I  walked  my 
horse  toward  him,  leisurely  reloading  ray  rifle,  when  to  my 
surprise  he  sprang  up  and  trotted  rapidly  away  on  three  legs 
into  the  dark  recesses  of  the  hills,  whither  I  had  no  time  to 
follow.  Ten  minutes  after,  I  was  passing  along  the  bottom 
of  a  deep  valley,  and  chancing  to  look  behind  me,  I  saw  in 
the  dim  light  that  something  was  following.  Supposing  it  to 
be  a  wolf,  I  slid  from  my  seat  and  sat  down  behind  my  horse 
to  shoot  it;  but  as  it  came  up,  I  saw  by  its  motions  that  it 
was  another  antelope  It  approached  within  a  hundred  yards, 
arched  its  graceful  neck,  and  gazed  intently.  I  leveled  at  the 
white  spot  on  its  chest,  and  was  about  to  fire,  when  it  started 
off,  ran  first  to  one  side  and  then  to  the  other,  like  a  vessel 
tacking  against  a  wind,  and  at  las£  stretched  away  at  full 
speed.  Then  it  stopped  again,  looked  curiously  behind  it,  and 
trotted  up  as  before;  but  not  so  boldly,  for  it  soon  paused  and 
stood  gazing  at  me.  I  fired;  it  leaped  upward  and  fell 
upon  its  tracks.  Measuring  the  distance,  I  found  it  204 
paces.  When  I  stood  by  his  side,  the  antelope  turned 
his  expiring  eye  upward.  It  was  like  a  beautiful  woman's, 
dark  and  rich.  "  Fortunate  that  I  am  in  a  hurry,"  thought 
I;  "I  might  be  troubled  with  remorse,  if  I  had  time  for  it." 

Cutting  the  animal  up,  not  in  the  most  skillful  manner,  I 
hung  the  meat  at  the  back  of  my  saddle,  and  rode  on  again. 
The  hills  (I  could  not  remember  one  of  them)  closed  around 
me.     "It  is  too  late,"  thought  I,  "to  go  forward.     I  will  stay 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  Ill 

here  to-nigbt,  and  look  for  tbe  path  in  the  morning."  As  a 
last  effort,  however,  I  ascended  a  high  hill,  from  which,  to  mj^ 
great  satisfaction,  I  could  see  Laramie  Creek  stretching  before 
me,  twisting  from  side  to  side  amid  ragged  patches  of  timber; 
and  far  off,  close  beneath  the  shadows  of  the  trees,  tbe  ruins  of 
the  old  trading  fort  were  visible.  I  reached  them  at  twilight. 
It  was  far  from  pleasant,  in  that  uncertain  light,  to  be  push- 
ing through  the  dense  trees  and  shrubbery  of  the  grove  be- 
yond. I  listened  anxiously  for  the  foot-fall  of  man  or  beast. 
Nothing  was  stirring  but  one  harmless  brown  bird,  chirping 
among  the  branches.  I  was  glad  when  I  gained  the  open 
priarie  once  more,  where  I  could  see  if  anything  approached. 
When  I  came  to  the  mouth  of  Chugwater,  it  was  totally  dark. 
Slackening  the  reins,  I  let  my  horse  take  his  own  course.  He 
trotted  on  with  unerring  instinct,  and  by  nine  o'clock  was 
scrambling  down  the  steep  descent  into  the  meadows  where  we 
were  encamped.  While  I  was  looking  in  vain  for  the  light 
of  the  fire,  Hendrick,  with  keener  perceptions,  gave  a  loud 
neigh,  which  was  immediately  answered  in  a  shrill  note  from 
the  distance.  In  a  moment  I  was  hailed  from  the  darkness  by 
the  voice  of  Reynal,  who  had  come  out,  rifle  in  hand,  to  see 
Avho  was  approaching. 

He,  with  his  sqauw,  the  two  Canadians  and  the  Indian  boys, 
were  the  sole  inmates  of  the  camp,  Shaw  and  Henry  Chatillon 
being  still  absent.  At  noon  of  the  following  day  they  came 
back,  their  horses  looking  none  the  better  for  the  journey. 
Henry  seemed  dejected.  The  woman  was  dead,  and  his  chil- 
dren must  henceforward  be  exposed,  without  a  protector,  to 
the  hardships  and  vicissitudes  of  Indian  life.  Even  in  the 
midst  of  his  grief  he  had  not  forgotten  his  attachment  to  his 
bourgeois.,  for  he  had  procured  among  his  Indian  relatives 
two  beautifully  ornamented  buffalo  robes,  which  he  spread  on 
the  ground  as  a  present  to  us. 

Shaw  lighted  his  pipe,  and  told  me  in  a  few  words  the  his- 
tory of  his  journey.  When  I  went  to  the  fort  they  left  mo, 
as  I  mentioned,  at  the  mouth  of  Chugwater.  They  followed 
the  course  of  the  little  stream  all  da}',  traversing  a  desolate 
and  barren  country.  Several  times  they  came  upon  the  fresh 
traces  of  a  large  war  party — the  same,  no  doubt,  from  whom 
we  had  so  narrowly  escaped  an  attack.  At  an  hour  before 
sunset,  without  encountering  a  human  being  by  the  wa}^  they 
came  upon  the  lodges  of  the  squaw  and  her  brothers,  who,  in 
compliance  with  Henry's  message,  had  left  the  Indian  village 
in  order  to  join  us  at  our  camp.     The  lodges  were  already 


112  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

pitched,  five  in  number,  by  the  side  of  the  stream.  The 
woman  lay  in  one  of  them,  reduced  to  a  mere  skeleton.  For 
some  time  she  had  been  unable  to  move  or  speak.  Indeed, 
nothing  had  kept  her  alive  but  the  hope  of  seeing  Henry,  to 
whom  she  was  strongly  and  faithfully  attached.  No  sooner 
did  he  enter  the  lodge  than  she  revived,  and  conversed  with 
him  the  greater  part  of  the  night.  Early  in  the  morning  she 
was  lifted  into  a  travail^  and  the  whole  party  set  out  toward 
our  camp.  There  were  but  five  warriors ;  the  rest  were  women 
and  children.  The  whole  were  in  great  alarm  at  the  prox- 
imity of  the  Crow  war  party,  who  would  certainly  have 
destroyed  them  without  mercy  had  they  met.  They  had 
advanced  only  a  mile  or  two,  when  they  discerned  a  horseman, 
far  off,  on  the  edge  of  the  horizon.  They  all  stopped,  gather- 
ing together  in  the  greatest  anxiety,  from  Avhich  they  did  not 
recover  until  long  after  the  horseman  disappeared;  then  they 
set  out  again.  Henry  was  riding  with  Shaw  a  few  rods  in 
advance  of  the  Indians,  when  Mahto-Tatonka,  a  younger 
brother  of  the  woman,  hastily  called  after  them.  Turning 
back,  they  found  all  the  Indians  crowded  around  the  travail  in 
which  the  woman  was  lying.  They  reached  her  just  in  time  to 
hear  the  death  rattle  in  her  throat.  In  a  moment  she  lay  dead 
in  the  basket  of  the  vehicle.  A  complete  stillness  succeeded; 
then  the  Indians  raised  in  concert  their  cries  of  lamenta- 
tion over  the  corpse,  and  among  them  Shaw  clearly  distin- 
guished those  strange  sounds  resembling  the  word  "Halle- 
luyah,"  which  together  with  some  other  accidental  coinci- 
dences has  given  rise  to  the  absurd  theory  that  the  Indians 
are  descended  from  the  ten  lost  tribes  of  Israel, 

The  Indian  usage  required  that  Henry,  as  well  as  the  other 
relatives  of  the  woman,  should  make  valuable  presents,  to  be 
placed  by  the  side  of  the  body  at  its  last  resting  place.  Leav- 
ing the  Indians,  he  and  Shaw  set  out  for  the  camp  and 
reached  it,  as  we  have  seen,  by  hard  pushing,  at  about  noon. 
Having  obtained  the  necessary  articles,  they  immediately 
returned.  It  was  very  late  and  quite  dark  when  they  again 
reached  the  lodges.  They  were  all  placed  in  a  deep  hollow 
among  the  dreary  hills.  Four  of  them  were  just  visible 
through  the  gloom,  but  the  fifth  and  largest  was  illuminated 
by  the  ruddy  blaze  of  a  fire  within,  glowing  through  the  half- 
transparent  covering  of  raw  hides.  There  was  a  perfect  still- 
ness as  they  approached.  The  lodges  seemed  without  a  tenant. 
Not  a  living  thing  was  stirring — there  was  something  awful 
in  the  scene.     They  rode  up  to  the  entrance  of  the  lodge,  and 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  113 

there  was  no  sound  but  the  tramp  of  their  horses.  A  squaw 
came  out  and  took  charge  of  the  animals,  without  speaking  a 
word.  Entering,  they  found  the  lodge  crowded  with  Indians; 
a  fire  was  burning  in  the  midst,  and  the  mourners  encircled  it 
in  a  triple  row.  Room  was  made  for  the  newcomers  at  the 
head  of  the  lodge,  a  robe  spread  for  them  to  sit  ui)on,  and  a 
pipe  lighted  and  handed  to  them  in  perfect  silence.  Thus 
they  passed  the  greater  part  of  the  night.  At  times  the  fire 
would  subside  into  a  heap  of  embers,  until  the  dark  figures 
seated  around  it  were  scarcely  visible;  then  a  squaw  would 
drop  upon  it  a  piece  of  bui¥alo-f  at,  and  a  bright  flame,  instantly 
springing  up,  would  reveal  on  a  sudden  the  crowd  of  wild 
faces,  motionless  as  bronze.  The  silence  continued  un- 
broken. It  was  a  relief  to  Shaw  when  daylight  returned  and 
he  could  escape  from  this  house  of  mourning.  He  and  Henry 
prepared  to  return  homeward;  first,  however,  they  placed  the 
presents  they  had  brought  near  the  body  of  the  squaw,  which, 
most  gaudily  attired,  remained  in  a  sitting  posture  in  one 
of  the  lodges.  A  fine  horse  was  picketed  not  far  off,  destined 
to  be  killed  that  morning  for  the  service  of  her  spirit,  for  the 
woman  was  lame,  and  could  not  travel  on  foot  over  the  dismal 
prairies  to  the  villages  of  the  dead.  Food,  too,  was  provided, 
and  household  implements,  for  her  use  upon  this  last  journey. 
Henry  left  her  to  the  care  of  her  relatives,  and  came  im- 
mediately with  Shaw  to  the  camp.  It  was  some  time  before 
he  entirely  recovered  from  his  dejection. 

CHAPTER   XI. 

SCENES    AT   THE    CAMP. 

Fierce  are  Albania's  children  ;  yet  they  lack 
Not  virtues,  were  those  virtues  more  mature  ; 

Where  is  the  foe  that  ever  saw  their  back  ? 
Who  can  so  well  the  toil  of  war  endure  ? 

Childe  Harold. 

Reynal  heard  guns  fired  one  day,  at  the  distance  of  a  mile 
or  two  from  the  camp.  He  grew  nervous  instantly.  Visions 
of  Crow  war  parties  began  to  haunt  his  imagination;  and 
when  we  returned  (for  we  were  all  absent),  he  renewed  his 
complaints  about  being  left  alone  with  the  Canadians  and  the 
squaw.  The  day  after,  the  cause  of  the  alarm  appeared. 
Four  trappers,  one  called  Moran,  another  Saraphin,  and  the 
others  nicknamed  "Rouleau"  and  "Jean  Gras,"  came  to  our 
camp  and  joined  us.     They  it  was  who  fired  the  guns  and 


114  THE  CALIFOBNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

disturbed  the  dreams  of  our  confederate  Reyiial.  They  soon 
encamped  by  our  side.  Their  rifles,  dingy  and  battered  with 
hard  service,  rested  with  ours  against  the  old  tree;  their 
strong  rude  saddles,  their  buffalo  robes,  their  traps,  and  the 
few  rough  and  simple  articles  of  their  traveling  equipment, 
were  piled  near  our  tent.  Their  mountain  horses  were  turned 
to  graze  in  the  meadow  among  our  own ;  and  the  men  them- 
selves, no  less  rough  and  hardy,  used  to  lie  half  the  day  in 
the  shade  of  our  tree  lolling  on  the  grass,  lazily  smoking,  and 
telling  stories  of  their  adventures;  and  I  defy  the  annals  of 
chivalry  to  furnish  the  record  of  a  life  more  wild  and  perilous 
than  that  of  a  Rocky  Mountain  trapper. 

With  this  efiicient  re-enforcement  the  agitation  of  Reynal's 
nerves  subsided.  He  began  to  conceive  a  sort  of  attachment 
to  our  old  camping  ground;  yet  it  was  time  to  change  our 
quarters,  since  remaining  too  long  on  one  spot  must  lead  to 
certain  unpleasant  results  not  to  be  borne  with  unless  in  a 
case  of  dire  necessity.  The  grass  no  longer  presented  a 
smooth  surface  of  turf ;  it  was  trampled  into  mud  and  clay.  So 
we  removed  to  another  old  tree,  larger  yet,  that  grew  by  the 
river  side  at  a  furlong's  distance.  Its  trunk  was  full  six  feet 
in  diameter;  on  one  side  it  was  marked  by  a  party  of  Indians 
with  various  inexplicable  hieroglj'^phics,  commemorating  some 
warlike  enterprise,  and  aloft  among  the  branches  were  the 
remains  of  a  scaffolding,  where  dead  bodies  had  once  been 
deposited,  after  the  Indian  manner. 

"There  comes  Bull-Bear,"  said  Henry  Chatillon,  as  we  sat 
on  the  grass  at  dinner.  Looking  up,  we  saw  several  horse- 
men coming  over  the  neighboring  hill,  and  in  a  moment  four 
stately  young  men  rode  up  and  dismounted.  One  of  them 
was  Bull-Bear,  or  Mahto-Tatonka,  a  compound  name  which 
he  inherited  from  his  father,  the  most  powerful  chief  in  the 
Ogallalla  band.  One  of  his  brothers  and  two  other  young 
men  accompanied  him.  We  shook  hands  with  the  visitors, 
and  when  we  had  finished  our  meal — for  this  is  the  orthodox 
manner  of  entertaining  Indians,  even  the  best  of  them — we 
handed  to  each  a  tin  cup  of  coffee  and  a  biscuit,  at  which 
they  ejaculated  from  the  bottom  of  their  throats,  "How! 
how !"  a  monosyllable  by  which  an  Indian  contrives  to  express 
half  the  emotions  that  he  is  susceptible  of.  Then  we  lighted 
the  pipe,  and  passed  it  to  them  as  they  squatted  on  the  ground. 

"Where  is  the  village?" 

"There,"  said  Mahto-Tatonka,  pointing  southward;  "it 
will  come  in  two  days." 


k 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  .115 

"Will  they  go  to  the  war?" 

"Yes." 

No  man  is  a  philanthropist  on  the  prairie.  We  welcomed 
this  news  most  cordially,  and  congratulated  ourselves  that  Bor- 
deaux's interested  efforts  to  divert  The  Whirlwind  from  his 
congenial  vocation  of  bloodshed  had  failed  of  success,  and 
that  no  additional  obstacles  would  interpose  between  us  and 
our  plan  of  repairing  to  the  rendezvous  at  La  Bonte's  Camp. 

For  that  and  several  succeeding  days,  Mahto-Tatonka  and 
his  friends  remained  our  guests.  They  devoured  the  relics  of 
our  meals;  they  filled  the  pipe  for  us  and  also  helped  us  to 
smoke  it.  Sometimes  they  stretched  themselves  side  by  side 
in  the  shade,  indulging  in  raillery  and  practical  jokes  ill 
becoming  the  dignity  of  brave  and  aspiring  warriors,  such 
as  two  of  them  in  reality  were. 

Two  days  dragged  away,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  third 
we  hoped  confidently  to  see  the  Indian  village.  It  did  not 
come ;  so  we  rode  out  to  look  for  it.  In  place  of  the  eight 
hundred  Indians  we  expected,  we  met  one  solitary  savage 
riding  toward  us  over  the  prairie,  who  told  us  that  the  Indians 
had  changed  their  plans,  and  would  not  come  within  three 
days;  still  he  persisted  that  they  were  going  to  the  war. 
Taking  along  with  us  this  messenger  of  evil  tidings,  we  re- 
traced our  footsteps  to  the  camp,  amusing  ourselves  by  the 
way  with  execrating  Indian  inconstancy.  When  we  came  in 
sight  of  our  little  white  tent  under  the  big  tree,  we  saw  that 
it  no  longer  stood  alone.  A  huge  old  lodge  was  erected  close 
by  its  side,  discolored  by  rain  and  storms,  rotten  with  age, 
with  the  uncouth  figures  of  horses  and  men,  and  outstretched 
hands  that  were  painted  upon  it,  well-nigh  obliterated.  The 
long  poles  which  supported  this  squalid  habitation  thrust  them- 
selves rakishly  out  from  its  pointed  top,  and  over  its  entrance 
were  suspended  a  "medicine-pipe"  and  various  other  imple- 
ments of  the  magic  art.  While  we  were  yet  at  a  distance, 
we  observed  a  greatly  increased  population  of  various  colors 
and  dimensions,  swarming  around  our  quiet  encampment. 
Moran,  the  trapper,  having  been  absent  for  a  day  or  two,  had 
returned,  it  seemed,  bringing  all  his  family  with  him.  He 
had  taken  to  himself  a  wife  for  whom  he  had  paid  the  estab- 
lished price  of  one  horse.  This  looks  cheap  at  first  sight, 
but  in  truth  the  purchase  of  a  squaw  is  a  transaction  which 
no  man  should  enter  into  without  mature  deliberation,  since  it 
involves  not  only  the  payment  of  the  first  price,  but  the 
formidable  burden  of   feeding    and  supporting  a  rapacious 


116  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

horde  of  the  bride's  relatives,  who  hold  themselves  entitled 
to  feed  upon  the  indiscreet  white  man.  They  gather  round 
like  leeches,  and  drain  him  of  all  he  has. 

Moran,  like  Reynal,  had  not  allied  himself  to  an  aristocra- 
tic circle.  His  relatives  occupied  but  a  contemptible  posi- 
tion in  Ogallalla  society;  for  among  these  wild  democrats  of 
the  prairie,  as  among  us,  there  are  virtual  distinctions  of 
rank  and  place;  though  this  great  advantage  thej^  have  over 
us,  that  w^ealth  has  no  part  in  determining  such  distinctions. 
Moran 's  partner  was  not  the  most  beautiful  of  her  sex,  and 
he  had  the  exceedingly  bad  taste  to  array  her  in  an  old  calico 
gown  bought  from  an  emigrant  woman,  instead  of  the  neat 
and  graceful  tunic  of  whitened  deerskin  worn  ordinarily  by 
the  squaws.  The  moving  spirit  of  the  establishment,  in  more 
senses  than  one,  was  a  hideous  old  hag  of  eighty.  Human 
imagination  never  conceived  hobgoblin  or  witch  more  ugly 
than  she.  You  could  count  all  her  ribs  through  the  wrinkles 
of  the  leathery  skin  that  covered  them.  Her  withered  face 
more  resembled  an  old  skull  than  the  countenance  of  a  living 
being,  even  to  the  hollow,  darkened  sockets,  at  the  bottom  of 
which  glittered  her  little  black  eyes.  Her  arms  had  dwindled 
away  into  nothing  but  whipcord  and  wire.  Her  hair,  half 
black,  half  gray,  hung  in  total  neglect  nearly  to  the  ground, 
and  her  sole  garment  consisted  of  the  remnant  of  a  discarded 
buffalo  robe  tied  round  her  waist  with  a  string  of  hide.  Yet 
the  old  squaw's  meager  anatomy  was  w^onderfully  strong. 
She  pitched  the  lodge,  packed  the  horses,  and  did  the  hardest 
labor  of  the  camp.  From  morning  till  night  she  bustled  about 
the  lodge,  screaming  like  a  screech-owl  when  anything  dis- 
pleased her.  Then  there  was  her  brother,  a  "medicine-man," 
or  magician,  equally  gaunt  and  sinewy  with  herself.  His 
mouth  spread  from  ear  to  ear,  and  his  appetite,  as  we  had  full 
occasion  to  learn,  was  ravenous  in  proportion.  The  other  in- 
mates of  the  lodge  were  a  young  bride  and  bridegroom;  the 
latter  one  of  those  idle,  good-for-nothing  fellows  who  infest 
an  Indian  village  as  well  as  more  civilized  communities.  He 
was  fit  neither  for  hunting  nor  for  war;  and  one  might  infer 
as  much  from  the  stolid  unmeaning  expression  of  his  face. 
The  happy  pair  had  just  entered  upon  the  honeymoon.  They 
would  stretch  a  buffalo  robe  upon  poles,  as  so  to  protect  them 
from  the  fierce  rays  of  the  sun,  and  spreading  beneath  this 
rough  canopy  a  luxuriant  couch  of  furs,  would  sit  affection- 
ately side  by  side  for  half  the  day,  though  I  could  not  dis- 
pover  that  much  conversation  passed  between  theip.     Frob- 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  117 

ably  they  had  nothing  to  say ;  for  an  Indian's  supply  of  topics 
for  conversation  is  far  from  being  copious.  There  were  half 
a  dozen  children,  too,  playing  and  whooping  about  the  camp, 
shooting  birds  with  little  bows  and  arrows,  or  making 
miniature  lodges  of  sticks,  as  children  of  a  different  com- 
plexion build  houses  of  blocks. 

A  day  passed,  and  Indians  began  rapidly  to  come  in. 
Parties  of  two  or  three  or  more  would  ride  up  and  silently 
seat  themselves  on  the  grass.  The  fourth  day  came  at  last, 
when  about  noon  horsemen  suddenly  aj^peared  into  view  on 
the  summit  of  the  neighboring  ridge.  They  descended,  and 
behind  them  followed  a  wild  procession,  hurrying  in  haste  and 
disorder  down  the  hill  and  over  the  plain  below ;  horses,  mules, 
and  dogs,  heavily  burdened  travaux,  mounted  warriors, 
squaws  walking  amid  the  throng,  and  a  host  of  children.  For 
a  full  half -hour  they  continued  to  pour  down;  and  keeping 
directly  to  the  bend  of  the  stream,  within  a  furlong  of  us, 
they  soon  assembled  there,  a  dark  and  confused  throng,  until, 
as  if  by  magic,  150  tall  lodges  sprung  up.  On  a  sudden  the 
lonely  plain  was  transformed  into  the  site  of  a  miniature  cit}'. 
Countless  horses  were  soon  grazing  over  the  meadows  around 
us,  and  the  whole  prairie  was  animated  by  restless  figures 
careering  on  horseback,  or  sedately  stalking  in  their  long  white 
robes.  The  Whirlwind  was  come  at  last !  One  question  yet 
remained  to  be  answered :  "  Will  he  go  to  the  war,  in  order 
that  we,  with  so  respectable  an  escort,  may  pass  over  to  the 
somewhat  perilous  rendezvous  at  La  Bonte's  Camp?" 

Still  this  remained  in  doubt.  Characteristic  indecision 
perplexed  their  councils.  Indians  cannot  act  in  large  bodies. 
Though  their  object  be  of  the  highest  importance,  thej-  cannot 
combine  to  attain  it  by  a  series  of  connected  efforts.  King 
Philip,  Pontiac,  and  Tecumseh  all  felt  this  to  their  cost. 
The  Ogallalla  once  had  a  war  chief  who  could  control  them; 
but  he  was  dead,  and  now  they  were  left  to  the  sway  of  their 
own  unsteady  impulses. 

This  Indian  village  and  its  inhabitants  will  hold  a  promi- 
nent place  in  the  rest  of  the  narrative,  and  perhaps  it  may  not 
be  amiss  to  glance  for  an  instant  at  the  savage  people  of  which 
they  form  a  part.  The  Dakota  (I  prefer  this  national  desig- 
nation to  the  unmeaning  French  name,  Sioux)  range  over  a 
vast  territory,  from  the  river  St.  Peter's  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains themselves.  They  are  divided  into  several  independ- 
ent bands,  united  under  no  central  government,  and  acknowl- 
edge no  common  head.      The  same  language,   usages,  and 


118  TBE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

superstitions  form  the  sole  bond  between  them.  They  do 
not  unite  even  in  their  wars.  The  bands  of  the  east  fight 
the  Ojibwas  on  the  Upper  Lakes;  those  of  the  west  make  in- 
cessant war  upon  the  Snake  Indians  in  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
As  the  whole  people  is  divided  into  bands,  so  each  band  is 
divided  into  villages.  Each  village  has  a  chief,  who  is 
honored  and  obeyed  only  so  far  as  his  personal  qualities  may 
command  respect  and  fear.  Sometimes  he  is  a  mere  nominal 
chief;  sometimes  his  authority  is  little  short  of  absolute,  and 
his  fame  and  influence  reach  even  beyond  his  own  village;  so 
that  the  whole  band  to  which  he  belongs  is  ready  to  acknowl- 
edge him  as  their  head.  This  was,  a  few  years  since,  the 
case  with  the  Ogallalla.  Courage,  address,  and  enterprise 
may  raise  any  warrior  to  the  highest  honor,  especially  if  he 
be  the  son  of  a  former  chief,  or  a  member  of  a  numerous 
family,  to  support  him  and  avenge  his  quarrels;  but  when  he 
has  reached  the  dignity  of  chief,  and  the  old  men  and  warriors, 
by  a  peculiar  ceremony,  have  formally  installed  him,  let  it 
not  be  imagined  that  he  assumes  any  of  the  outward  sem- 
blances of  rank  and  honor.  He  knows  too  well  on  how  frail 
a  tenure  he  holds  his  station.  He  must  conciliate  his  uncer- 
tain subjects.  Many  a  man  in  the  village  lives  better,  owns 
more  squaws  and  more  horses,  and  goes  better  clad  than  he. 
Like  the  Teutonic  chiefs  of  old,  he  ingratiates  himself  with 
his  young  men  hj  making  them  presents,  thereby  often  im- 
poverishing himself.  Does  he  fail  in  gaining  their  favor, 
they  will  set  his  authority  at  naught,  and  may  desert  him  at 
any  moment;  for  the  usages  of  his  people  have  provided  no 
sanctions  by  which  he  may  enforce  his  authority.  Very  sel- 
dom does  it  happen,  at  least  among  these  western  bands,  that 
a  chief  attains  to  much  power,  unless  he  is  the  head  of  a 
numerous  family.  Frequently  the  village  is  principally  made 
up  of  his  relatives  and  descendants,  and  the  wandering  com- 
munity assumes  much  of  the  patriarchal  character.  A  people 
so  loosely  united,  torn,  too,  with  rankling  feuds  and  jeal- 
ousies, can  have  little  power  or  efficiency. 

The  western  Dakota  have  no  fixed  habitations.  Hunting 
and  fighting,  they  wander  incessantly  through  summer  and 
winter.  Some  are  following  the  herds  of  buffalo  over  the  waste 
of  prairie  ;  others  are  traversing  the  Black  Hills,  thronging 
on  liorseback  and  on  foot  through  the  dark  gulfs  and  somber 
gorges  beneath  the  vast  splintering  precipices,  and  emerging 
at  last  upon  the  "  Parks,"  those  beautiful  but  most  perilous 
hunting  grounds.     The  buffalo  supplies  them  with  almost  all 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  119 

the  necessaries  of  life  ;  with  habitations,  food,  clothing,  and 
fuel  ;  with  strings  for  their  bows,  with  thread,  cordage,  and 
trail- ropes  for  their  horses,  with  coverings  for  their  saddles, 
with  vessels  to  hold  water,  with  boats  to  cross  streams,  with 
glue,  and  with  the  means  of  purchasing  all  that  they  desire 
from  the  traders.  When  the  buffalo  are  extinct,  they  too 
must  dwindle  away. 

War  is  the  breath  of  their  nostrils.  Against  most  of  the 
neighboring  tribes  they  cherish  a  deadly,  rancorous  hatred, 
transmitted  from  father  to  son,  and  inflamed  by  constant 
aggression  and  retaliation.  Many  times  a  year,  in  every  vil- 
lage, the  Great  Spirit  is  called  upon,  fasts  are  made,  the  war 
parade  is  celebrated,  and  the  warriors  go  out  by  handfuls  at 
a  time  against  the  enemy.  This  fierce  and  evil  spirit  awakens 
their  most  eager  aspirations,  and  calls  forth  their  greatest 
energies.  It  is  chiefly  this  that  saves  them  from  lethargy  and 
utter  abasement.  Without  its  powerful  stimulus  they  would 
be  like  the  unwarlike  tribes  beyond  the  mountains,  who  are 
scattered  among  the  caves  and  rocks  like  beasts,  living  on 
roots  and  reptiles.  These  latter  have  little  of  humanity  except 
the  form  ;  but  the  proud  and  ambitious  Dakota  warrior 
can  sometimes  boast  of  heroic  virtues.  It  is  very  seldom  that 
distinction  and  influence  are  attained  among  them  by  any 
other  course  than  that  of  arms.  Their  superstition,  however, 
sometimes  gives  great  power  to  those  among  tliem  who  pre- 
tend to  the  character  of  magicians.  Their  wild  hearts,  too, 
can  feel  the  power  of  oratory,  and  yield  deference  to  the 
masters  of  it. 

But  to  return.  Look  into  our  tent,  or  enter,  if  you  can  bear 
the  stifling  smoke  and  the  close  atmosphere.  There,  wedged 
close  together,  you  will  see  a  circle  of  stout  warriors,  passing 
the  pipe  around,  joking,  telling  stories,  and  making  them- 
selves merry,  after  their  fashion.  We  were  also  infested  by 
little  copper-colored  naked  boys  and  snake-eyed  girls.  They 
would  come  up  to  us,  muttering  certain  words,  which  being 
interpreted  conveyed  the  concise  invitation,  "Come  and  eat." 
Then  we  would  rise,  cursing  the  pertinacity  of  Dakota  hos- 
pitality, whicli  allowed  scarcely  an  hour  of  rest  between 
sun  and  sun,  and  to  which  we  were  bound  to  do  honor,  unless 
we  would  off^end  our  entertainers.  This  necessity  was  par- 
ticularly'^ burdensome  to  me,  as  I  was  scarcely  able  to  walk, 
from  the  effects  of  illness,  and  was  of  course  poorly  qualified 
to  dispose  of  twenty  meals  a  day.  Of  these  sumptuous  ban- 
quets I  gave  a  specimen  in  a  former  chapter,  where  the  trag- 


120  THF.  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

ical  fate  of  the  little  dog  was  chronicled.  So  bounteous  an 
entertainment  looks  like  an  outgusliing  of  good  will ;  but  doubt- 
less one-half  at  least  of  our  kind  hosts,  had  they  met  us  alone 
and  unarmed  on  the  prairie,  would  have  robbed  us  of  our 
horses,  and  perchance  have  bestowed  an  arrow  upon  us  beside. 
Trust  not  an  Indian.  Let  your  rifle  be  ever  in  your  hand. 
Wear  next  your  heart  the  old  chivalric  motto,  Semper 
Paratus. 

One  morning  we  were  summoned  to  the  lodge  of  an  old 
man,  in  good  truth  the  Nestor  of  his  tribe.  We  found  him 
half  sitting,  half  reclining  on  a  pile  of  buffalo  robes  ;  his  long 
liair,  jet-black  even  now,  though  he  had  seen  some  eighty 
winters,  hung  on  either  side  of  his  thin  features.  Tiiose  most 
conversant  with  Indians  in  their  homes  will  scarcely  believe 
me  when  I  affirm  that  there  was  dignity  in  his  countenance  and 
mien.  His  gaunt  but  symmetrical  frame  did  not  more  clearly 
exhibit  the  wreck  of  bygone  strength,  than  did  his  dark, 
wasted  features,  still  prominent  and  commanding,  bear  the 
stamp  of  mental  energies.  I  recalled,  as  I  saw  him,  the  elo- 
quent metaphor  of  the  Iroquois  sachem  :  "  I  am  an  aged  hem- 
lock ;  the  winds  of  a  hundred  winters  have  whistled  through 
my  branches,  and  I  am  dead  at  the  top  ! "  Opposite  the  patri- 
arch was  his  nephew,  the  young  aspirant  Mahto-Tatonka  ; 
and  besides  these,  there  were  one  or  two  women  in  the  lodge. 

The  old  man's  story  is  peculiar,  and  singularly  illustrative 
of  a  superstitious  custom  that  prevails  in  full  force  among 
many  of  the  Indian  tribes.  He  was  one  of  a  powerful  family, 
renowned  for  their  warlike  exploits.  When  a  very  young 
man,  he  submitted  to  the  singular  rite  to  which  most  of  the 
tribe  subject  themselves  before  entering  upon  life.  He 
painted  his  face  black  ;  then  seeking  out  a  cavern  in  a  seques- 
tered part  of  the  Black  Hills,  he  lay  for  several  daj^s,  fasting 
and  praying  to  the  Great  Spirit.  In  the  dreams  and  visions 
produced  by  his  weakened  and  excited  state,  he  fancied,  like 
nil  Indians,  that  he  saw  supernatural  revelations.  Again  and 
again  the  form  of  an  antelope  appeared  before  him.  The 
antelope  is  the  graceful  peace  spirit  of  the  Ogallalla  ;  but 
seldom  is  it  that  such  a  gentle  visitor  presents  itself  during 
the  initiatory  fasts  of  their  young  men.  The  terrible  grizzly 
bear,  the  divinity  of  war,  usually  appears  to  fire  them  with 
martial  ardor  and  thirst  for  renown.  At  length  the  antelope 
spoke.  He  told  the  young  dreamer  that  he  was  not  to  fol- 
low the  path  of  war  ;  that  a  life  of  peace  and  tranquillity  was 
marked  out  for  him  ;  that  henceforward  he  was  to  guide  the 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  121 

people  by  his  counsels  and  protect  them  from  the  evils  of 
their  own  feuds  and  dissensions.  Others  were  to  gain  renown 
by  fighting  the  enemy  ;  but  greatness  of  a  different  kind  was 
in  store  for  him. 

The  visions  beheld  during  the  period  of  this  fast  usually 
determine  the  whole  course  of  the  dreamer's  life,  for  an  Indian 
is  bound  by  iron  superstitions.  From  that  time,  Le  Borgne, 
which  was  the  only  name  by  which  we  knew  him,  abandoned 
all  thoughts  of  war  and  devoted  himself  to  the  labors  of  peace. 
He  told  his  vision  to  the  people.  They  honored  his  commission 
and  respected  him  in  his  novel  capacity. 

A  far  different  man  was  his  brother,  Mahto-Tatonka,  who 
had  transmitted  his  names,  his  features,  and  many  of  his  char- 
acteristic qualities,  to  his  son.  He  was  the  father  of  Henry 
Chatillon's  squaw,  a  circumstance  which  proved  of  some 
advantage  to  us,  as  securing  for  us  the  friendship  of  a  family 
perhaps  the  most  distinguished  and  powerful  in  the  whole  Ogal- 
lalla  band.  Mahto-Tatonka,  in  his  rude  way,  was  a  hero. 
No  chief  could  vie  with  him  in  warlike  renown,  or  in  power  over 
his  people.  He  had  a  fearless  spirit,  and  a  most  impetuous 
and  inflexible  resolution.  His  will  was  law.  He  was  politic 
and  sagacious,  and  with  true  Indian  craft  he  always  befriended 
the  whites,  w^ell  knowing  that  he  might  thus  reap  great  advan- 
tages for  himself  and  his  adherents.  When  he  had  resolved 
on  any  course  of  conduct,  he  would  pay  to  the  warriors  the 
empty  compliment  of  calling  them  together  to  deliberate  upon 
it,  and  when  their  debates  were  over,  he  would  quietly  state 
his  own  opinion,  which  no  one  ever  disputed.  The  con- 
sequences of  thwarting  his  imperious  will  were  too  formidable 
to  be  encountered.  Woe  to  those  who  incurred  his  displeasure  ! 
He  would  strike  them  or  stab  them  on  the  spot  ;  and  this  act, 
which,  if  attempted  by  any  other  chief,  would  instantly  have 
cost  him  his  life,  the  awe  inspired  by  his  name  enabled  him 
to  repeat  again  and  again  with  impunity.  In  a  community 
where,  from  immemorial  time,  no  man  has  acknowledged 
any  law  but  his  own  will,  Mahto-Tatonka,  by  the  force  of  his 
dauntless  resolution,  raised  himself  to  power  little  short  of 
despotic.  His  haughty  career  came  at  last  to  an  end.  He 
had  a  host  of  enemies  only  waiting  for  their  opportunity  of 
revenge,  and  our  old  friend  Smoke,  in  particular,  together  with 
all  his  kinsmen,  hated  him  most  cordially.  Smoke  sat  one  day 
in  his  lodge  in  the  midst  of  his  own  village,  when  Mahto- 
Tatonka  entered  it  alone,  and  approaching  the  dwelling  of  his 
enemy,  called  on  him  in  a  loud  voice  to  come  out,  if  he  were  a 


122  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

man,  and  light.  Smoke  would  not  move.  At  this,  Mahto- 
Tatonlca  proclaimed  him  a  coward  and  an  old  woman,  and 
striding  close  to  the  entrance  of  the  lodge,  stabbed  the  chief's 
best  horse,  which  was  picketed  there.  Smoke  was  daunted, 
and  even  this  insult  failed  to  call  him  forth.  Mahto-Tatonka 
moved  haughtily  away  ;  all  made  way  for  him,  but  his  hour 
of  reckoning  was  near. 

One  hot  day,  five  or  six  years  ago,  numerous  lodges  of 
Smoke's  kinsmen  were  gathered  around  some  of  the  Fur  Com- 
pany's men,  who  were  trading  in  various  articles  with  them, 
whisky  among  the  rest.  Mahto-Tatonka  was  also  there  with 
a  few  of  his  people.  As  he  lay  in  his  own  lodge,  a  fray  arose 
between  his  adherents  and  the  kinsmen  of  his  enemy.  The 
war  whoop  was  raised,  bullets  and  arrows  began  to  fly,  and  the 
camp  was  in  confusion.  Tlie  chief  sprang  up,  and  rushing  in 
a  fury  from  the  lodge  shouted  to  the  combatants  on  both  sides 
to  cease.  Instantly — for  the  attack  was  preconcerted — came 
the  reports  of  two  or  three  guns,  and  the  twanging  of  a  dozen 
bows,  and  tlie  savage  hero,  mortally  wounded,  pitched  forward 
headlong  to  the  ground.  Rouleau  was  present,  and  told  me 
the  particulars.  The  tumult  became  general,  and  was  not 
quelled  until  several  had  fallen  on  both  sides.  When  we  were 
in  the  country  the  feud  between  the  two  families  was  still 
rankling,  and  not  likely  soon  to  cease. 

Thus  died  Mahto-Tatonka,  but  he  left  behind  him  a  goodly 
army  of  descendants,  to  perpetuate  his  renown  and  avenge 
his  fate.  Besides  daughters  he  had  thirty  sons,  a  number 
which  need  not  stagger  the  credulity  of  those  who  are  best 
acquainted  with  Indian  usages  and  practices.  "We  saw  many 
of  them,  all  marked  by  the  same  dark  complexion  and  the 
same  peculiar  cast  of  features.  Of  these  our  visitor,  young 
Mahto-Tatonka,  was  the  eldest,  and  some  reported  him  as 
likely  to  succeed  to  his  father's  honors.  Though  he  appeared 
not  more  than  ^wenty-one  years  old,  he  had  oftener  struck 
the  enemy,  and  stole  more  horses  and  more  squaws  than  any 
young  man  in  the  village.  We  of  the  civilized  world  are 
not  apt  to  attach  much  credit  to  the  latter  species  of  exploits  ; 
but  horse-stealing  is  well  known  as  an  avenue  to  distinction 
on  the  prairies,  and  the  other  kind  of  depredation  is  esteemed 
equall}^  meritorious.  Not  that  the  act  can  confer  fame  from 
its  own  intrinsic  merits.  Anyone  can  steal  a  squaw,  and  if 
he  chooses  afterward  to  make  an  adequate  present  to  her 
rightful  proprietor,  the  easy  husband  for  the  most  part  rests 
content,  his  vengeance  falls  asleep,  and  all  danger  from  that 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  123 

quarter  is  averted.  Yet  this  is  esteemed  but  a  pitiful  and 
mean-spirited  transaction.  The  danger  is  averted,  but  the 
glory  of  the  achievement  also  is  lost.  Mahto-Tatonka  pro- 
ceeded after  a  more  gallant  and  dashing  fashion.  Out  of 
several  dozen  squaws  w^hom  he  had  stolen,  he  could  boast 
that  he  had  never  paid  for  one,  but  snapping  his  fingers 
in  the  face  of  the  injured  husband,  had  defied  the  extremity 
of  his  indignation,  and  no  one  yet  had  dared  to  lay  the  finger 
of  violence  upon  him.  He  was  following  close  in  the  foot- 
steps of  his  father.  The  young  men  and  the  young  squaws, 
each  in  their  w^ay,  admired  him.  The  one  would  always 
follow  him  to  war,  and  he  was  esteemed  to  have  an  unrivaled 
charm  in  the  eyes  of  the  other.  Perhaps  his  impunity  may 
excite  some  wonder.  An  arrow  shot  from  a  ravine,  a  stab 
given  in  the  dark,  require  no  great  valor,  and  are  especially 
suited  to  the  Indian  genius  ;  but  Mahto-Tatonka  had  a  strong 
protection.  It  was  not  alone  his  courage  and  audacious  will 
that  enabled  him  to  career  so  dashingly  among  his  compeers. 
His  enemies  did  not  forget  that  he  was  one  of  thirty  warlike 
brethren,  all  growing  up  to  manhood.  Should  they  wreak 
their  anger  upon  him,  many  keen  eyes  would  be  ever  upon 
them,  many  fierce  hearts  w^ould  thirst  for  their  blood.  The 
avenger  would  dog  their  footsteps  everywhere.  To  kill 
Mahto-Tatonka  would  be  no  better  than  an  act  of  suicide. 

Though  he  found  such  favor  in  the  eyes  of  the  fair,  he  was 
no  dandy.  As  among  us  those  of  highest  worth  and  breeding 
are  most  simple  in  manner  and  attire,  so  our  aspiring  young 
friend  was  indifferent  to  the  gaudy  trappings  and  ornaments 
of  his  companions.  He  w\as  content  to  rest  his  chances  of 
success  upon  his  own  warlike  merits.  He  never  arrayed  him- 
self in  gaudy  blanket  and  glittering  necklaces,  but  left  his 
statue-like  form,  limbed  like  an  Apollo  of  bronze,  to  win  its 
way  to  favor.  His  voice  was  singularly  deep  and  strong.  It 
sounded  from  his  chest  like  the  deep  notes  of  an  organ.  Yet 
after  all,  he  was  but  an  Indian.  See  him  as  he  lies  there  in 
the  sun  before  our  tent,  kicking  his  heels  in  the  air  and  crack- 
ing jokes  with  his  brother.  Does  he  look  like  a  hero?  See 
him  now  in  the  hour  of  his  glory,  when  at  sunset  the  whole 
village  empties  itself  to  behold  him,  for  to-morrow  their 
favorite  young  partisan  goes  out  against  the  enemy.  His 
superb  headdress  is  adorned  with  a  crest  of  the  war  eagle's 
feathers,  rising  in  a  waving  ridge  above  his  brow,  and  sweep- 
ing far  behind  him.  His  round  white  shield  hangs  at  his 
breast,  with  feathers  radiating  from  the  center  like  a  star. 


124  THE  CALIFOBNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

His  quiver  is  at  his  back  ;  his  tall  lance  in  his  hand,  the  iron 
point  flashing  against  the  declining  sun,  while  the  long  scalp- 
locks  of  his  enemies  flutter  from  the  shaft.  Thus,  gorgeous 
as  a  champion  in  his  panoply,  he  rides  round  and  round  within 
the  great  circle  of  lodges,  balancing  with  a  graceful  buoyancy 
to  the  free  movements  of  his  war  horse,  while  with  a  sedate 
brow  he  sings  his  song  to  the  Great  Spirit.  Young  rival 
warriors  look  askance  at  him  ;  vermilion-cheeked  girls  gaze 
iu  admiration,  boys  whoop  and  scream  in  a  thrill  of  delight, 
and  old  women  yell  forth  his  name  and  proclaim  his  praises 
from  lodge  to  lodge. 

Mahto-Tatonka,  to  come  back  to  him,  was  the  best  of  all 
our  Indian  friends.  Hour  after  hour  and  day  after  day,  when 
swarms  of  savages  of  every  age,  sex,  and  degree  beset  our 
camp,  he  would  lie  in  our  tent,  his  lynx  eye  ever  open  to 
guard  our  property  from  pillage. 

The  Whirlwind  invited  us  one  day  to  his  lodge.  The  feast 
was  finished,  and  the  pipe  began  to  circulate.  It  was  a 
remarkably  large  and  fine  one,  and  I  expressed  ray  admira- 
tion of  its  form  and  dimensions. 

"If  the  Meneaska  likes  the  pipe,"  asked  The  Whirlwind, 
"  why  does  he  not  keep  it  ?  " 

Such  a  pipe  among  the  Ogallalla  is  valued  at  the  price  of 
a  horse.  A  princely  gift,  thinks  the  reader,  and  worthy  of  a 
chieftain  and  a  warrior.  The  Whirlwind's  generosity  rose  to 
no  such  pitch.  He  gave  me  the  pipe,  confidently  expecting 
that  I  in  return  should  make  him  a  present  of  equal  or  superior 
value.  This  is  the  implied  condition  of  every  gift  among  the 
Indians  as  among  the  Orientals,  and  should  it  not  be  complied 
with,  the  present  is  usually  reclaimed  by  the  giver.  So  I 
arranged  upon  a  gaudy  calico  handkerchief  an  assortment  of 
vermilion,  tobacco,  knives,  and  gunpowder,  and  summoning 
the  cliief  to  camp,  assured  him  of  my  friendship  and  begged 
his  acceptance  of  a  slight  token  of  it.  Ejaculating  how! 
how  !  he  folded  up  the  offerings  and  withdrew  to  his  lodge. 

Several  days  passed  and  we  and  the  Indians  remained 
encamped  side  by  side.  They  could  not  decide  whether  or 
not  to  go  to  the  war.  Toward  evening,  scores  of  them  would 
surround  our  tent,  a  picturesque  group.  Late  one  afternoon 
a  party  of  them  mounted  on  horseback  came  suddenly  in  sight 
from  behind  some  clumps  of  bushes  that  lined  the  bank  of  the 
stream,  leading  with  them  a  mule,  on  whose  back  was  a 
wretched  negro,  only  sustained  in  his  seat  by  the  high  pommel 
and  cantle  of  the  Indian  saddle.     His  cheeks  were  withered 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  125 

and  shrunken  in  the  hollow  of  his  jaws  ;  his  eyes  were  unnat- 
urall}^  dilated,  and  his  lips  seemed  shriveled  and  drawn  back 
from  his  teeth  like  those  of  a  corpse.  When  they  brought 
him  up  before  our  tent,  and  lifted  him  from  the  saddle,  he  could 
not  walk  or  stand,  but  he  crawled  a  short  distance,  and  with  a 
look  of  utter  misery  sat  down  on  the  grass.  All  the  children 
and  women  came  pouring  out  of  the  lodges  round  us,  and 
with  screams  and  cries  made  a  close  circle  about  him,  while  he 
sat  supporting  himself  with  his  hands,  and  looking  from  side 
to  side  with  a  vacant  stare.  The  wretch  was  starving  to 
death  !  For  thirty-three  days  he  had  wandered  alone  on  the 
])rairie,  without  weapon  of  any  kind  :  without  shoes,  mocca- 
sins, or  any  other  clothing  than  an  old  jacket  and  pantaloons  ; 
without  intelligence  and  skill  to  guide  his  course,  or  any 
knowledge  of  the  productions  of  the  prairie.  All  this  time 
he  had  subsisted  on  crickets  and  lizards,  wild  onions,  and 
three  eggs  which  he  found  in  the  nest  of  a  prairie  dove.  He 
had  not  seen  a  human  being.  Utterly  bewildered  in  the 
boundless,  hopeless  desert  that  stretched  around  him,  offer- 
ing to  his  inexperienced  eye  no  mark  by  which  to  direct  his 
course,  he  had  walked  on  in  despair  till  he  could  walk  no 
longer,  and  then  crawled  on  his  knees  until  the  bone  was 
laid  bare.  He  chose  the  night  for  his  traveling,  lying  down 
by  day  to  sleep  in  the  glaring  sun,  alwaj^s  dreaming,  as  lie 
said,  of  the  broth  and  corn  cake  he  used  to  eat  under  his  old 
master's  shed  in  Missouri.  Every  man  in  the  camp,  both 
white  and  red,  was  astonished  at  his  wonderful  escape  not 
only  from  starvation  but  from  the  grizzly  bears  which  abound 
in  that  neighborhood,  and  the  wolves  which  howled  around 
him  ever}'-  night. 

Reynal  recognized  him  the  moment  the  Indians  brought 
him  in.  He  had  run  away  from  his  master  about  a  year  be- 
fore and  joined  the  party  of  M.  Richard,  who  was  then  leav- 
ing the  frontier  for  the  mountains.  He  had  lived  with 
Richard  ever  since,  until  in  the  end  of  May  he  with  Reynal 
and  several  other  men  went  out  in  search  of  some  stray  horses, 
when  he  got  separated  from  the  rest  in  a  storm,  and  had  never 
been  heard  of  up  to  this  time.  Knowing  his  inexperience 
and  helplessness,  no  one  dreamed  that  he  could  still  be 
living.  The  Indians  had  found  him  lying  exhausted  on  the 
ground. 

As  he  sat  there  with  the  Indians  gazing  silently  on  him, 
his  haggard  face  and  glazed  eye  were  disgusting  to  look  upon. 
Pelorier  made  him  a  bowl  of  gruel,  but  he  suffered  it  to  re- 


126  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

main  untasted  before  him.  At  length  he  languidly  raised  the 
spoon  to  his  lips  ;  again  he  did  so,  and  again  ;  and  then  his 
appetite  seemed  suddenly  inflamed  into  madness,  for  he  seized 
the  bowl,  swallowed  all  its  contents  in  a  few  seconds,  and 
eagerly  demanded  meat.  Tliis  we  refused,  telling  him  to 
wait  until  morning,  but  he  begged  so  eagerly  that  we  gaye 
him  a  small  piece,  which  he  devoured,  tearing  it  like  a  dog. 
He  said  he  must  have  more.  We  told  him  that  his  life  was 
in  danger  if  he  ate  so  immoderately  at  first.  He  assented, 
and  said  he  knew  he  was  a  fool  to  do  so,  but  he  must  have 
meat.  This  we  absolutely  refused,  to  the  great  indignation 
of  the  senseless  squaws,  who,  when  we  were  not  watching 
him,  would  slyly  bring  dried  meat  and  pommies  blanches,  and 
place  them  on  the  ground  by  his  side.  Still  this  was  not 
enough  for  him.  When  it  grew  dark  he  contrived  to  creep 
away  between  the  legs  of  the  horses  and  crawl  over  to  the 
Indian  village,  about  a  furlong  down  the  stream.  Here  he 
fed  to  his  heart's  content,  and  was  brought  back  again  in  the 
morning,  when  Jean  Gras,  the  trapper,  put  him  on  horseback 
and  carried  him  to  the  fort.  He  managed  to  survive  the 
effects  of  his  insane  greediness,  and  t3-ough  slightly  deranged 
when  we  left  this  part  of  the  country,  he  was  otherwise  in 
tolerable  health  and  expressed  his  firm  conviction  that  noth- 
ing could  ever  kill  him. 

When  the  sun  was  yet  an  hour  high,  it  was  a  gay  scene  in 
the  village.  The  warriors  stalked  sedately  among  the  lodges, 
or  along  the  margin  of  the  streams,  or  walked  out  to  visit  the 
bands  of  horses  that  were  feeding  over  the  prairie.  Half  the 
village  population  deserted  the  close  and  heated  lodges  and 
betook  themselves  to  the  water  ;  and  here  j^ou  might  see  boys 
and  girls  and  young  squaws  splashing,  swimming,  and  diving 
beneath  the  afternoon  sun,  with  merry  laughter  and  scream- 
ing. But  when  the  sun  was  just  resting  above  the  broken 
peaks,  and  the  purple  mountains  threw  their  prolonged 
sliadows  for  miles  over  the  prairie  ;  when  our  grim  old  tree, 
lighted  by  the  horizontal  rays,  assumed  an  aspect  of  peaceful 
repose,  such  as  one  loves  after  scenes  of  tumult  and  excite- 
ment ;  and  when  the  whole  landscape  of  swelling  plains  and 
scattered  groves  was  softened  into  a  tranquil  beauty,  then 
our  encampment  presented  a  striking  spectacle.  Could  Sal- 
vator  Rosa  have  transferred  it  to  his  canvas,  it  would  have 
added  new  renown  to  his  pencil.  Savage  figures  surrounded 
our  tent,  with  quivers  at  their  backs,  and  guns,  lances,  or  toma- 
hawks in  their  hands,     Sonie  sat  on  horseback,  motionless  ^s 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  127 

equestrian  statues,  their  arms  crossed  on  their  breasts,  their 
eyes  fixed  in  a  steady  unwavering  gaze  upon  us.  Some  stood 
erect,  wrapped  from  head  to  foot  in  their  long  white  robes  of 
buffalo  hide.  Some  sat  together  on  the  grass,  holding  their 
shaggy  horses  by  a  rope,  with  their  broad  dark  busts  exposed 
to  view  as  they  suffered  their  robes  to  fall  from  their  shoulders. 
Others  again  stood  carelessly  among  the  throng,  with  nothing 
to  conceal  the  matchless  symmetry  of  tlieir  forms  ;  and  I  do 
not  exaggerate  when  I  say  that  only  on  the  prairie  and  in  the 
Vatican  have  I  seen  such  faultless  models  of  the  human  figure. 
See  that  warrior  standing  by  the  tree,  towering  six  feet  and  a 
half  in  stature.  Your  eyes  may  trace  the  whole  of  his  grace- 
ful and  majestic  height,  and  discover  no  defect  or  blemish. 
With  his  free  and  noble  attitude,  with  the  bow  in  liis  hand, 
and  the  quiver  at  his  back,  he  might  seem,  but  for  his  face, 
the  Pythian  Apollo  himself.  Such  a  figure  rose  before  the 
imagination  of  West,  when  on  first  seeing  the  Belvidere  in 
the  Vatican,  he  exclaimed,  "  By  God,  a  Mohawk  !  " 

When  the  sky  darkened  and  the  stars  began  to  appear  ; 
when  the  prairie  was  involved  in  gloom  and  the  horses  were 
driven  in  and  secured  around  the  camp,  the  crowd  began  to 
melt  away.  Fires  gleamed  around,  duskily  revealing  the  rough 
trappers  and  the  graceful  Indians.  One  of  the  families  near 
us  would  always  be  gathered  about  a  bright  blaze,  that  dis- 
played the  shadowy  dimensions  of  their  lodge,  and  sent  its 
lights  far  up  among  the  masses  of  foliage  above,  gilding  the 
dead  and  ragged  branches.  Withered  witchlike  hags  ffitted 
around  the  blaze,  and  here  for  hour  after  hour  sat  a  circle  of 
children  and  young  girls,  laughing  and  talking,  their  round 
merry  faces  glowing  in  the  ruddy  light.  We  could  hear  the 
monotonous  notes  of  the  drum  from  the  Indian  village,  with 
the  chant  of  the  war  song,  deadened  in  the  distance,  and  the 
long  chorus  of  quavering  yells,  wliere  the  war  dance  was  going 
on  in  the  largest  lodge.  For  several  nights,  too,  we  could  hear 
wild  and  mournful  cries,  rising  and  dying  away  like  the  mel- 
ancholy voice  of  a  wolf.  They  came  from  the  sisters  and  female 
relatives  of  Mahto-Tatonka,  who  were  gashing  their  limbs 
with  knives,  and  bewailing  the  death  of  Henry  Chatillon's 
squaw.  The  hour  would  grow  late  before  all  retired  to  rest  in 
the  camp.  Then  the  embers  of  the  fires  would  be  glowing 
dimly,  the  men  would  be  stretched  in  their  blankets  on  the 
ground,  and  nothing  coirid  be  heard  but  the  restless  motions 
of  the  crowded  horses. 

I  recall  these  scenes  with  a  mixed  feeling  of  pleasure  and 


128  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

pain.  At  this  time  I  was  so  reduced  by  illness  that  I  could 
seldom  walk  without  reeling  like  a  drunken  man,  and  when  I 
rose  from  my  seat  upon  the  ground  the  landscape  suddenly 
grew  dim  before  my  eyes,  the  trees  and  lodges  seemed  to  sway 
to  and  fro,  and  the  prairie  to  rise  and  fall  like  the  swells  of  the 
ocean.  Such  a  state  of  things  is  by  no  means  enviable  any- 
where. In  a  country  where  a  man's  life  may  at  any  moment 
depend  on  the  strength  of  his  arm,  or  it  may  be  on  the  activity 
of  his  legs,  it  is  more  particularly  inconvenient.  Medical 
assistance  of  course  there  was  none  ;  neither  had  I  the  means 
of  pursuing  a  system  of  diet ;  and  sleeping  on  a  damp  ground, 
with  an  occasional  drenching  from  a  shower,  would  hardly  be 
recommended  as  beneficial.  I  sometimes  suffered  the  extremity 
of  languor  and  exhaustion,  and  though  at  the  time  I  felt  no 
apprehensions  of  the  final  result*  I  have  since  learned  that  ray 
situation  was  a  critical  one. 

Besides  other  formidable  inconveniences  I  owe  it  in  a  great 
measure  to  the  remote  effects  of  that  unlucky  disorder  that 
from  deficient  eyesight  I  am  compelled  to  employ  the  pen  of 
another  in  taking  down  this  narrative  from  my  lips  ;  and  I 
have  learned  very  effectually  that  a  violent  attack  of  dysentery 
on  the  prairie  is  a  thing  too  serious  for  a  joke.  I  tried  repose 
and  a  very  sparing  diet.  For  a  long  time,  with  exemplary 
patience,  I  lounged  about  the  camp,  or  at  the  utmost  staggered 
over  to  the  Indian  village,  and  walked  faint  and  dizzy  among 
the  lodges.  It  would  not  do,  and  I  bethought  me  of  starvation. 
During  five  days  I  sustained  life  on  one  small  biscuit  a  day. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  I  was  weaker  than  before,  but  the 
disorder  seemed  shaken  in  its  stronghold  and  very  gradually 
I  began  to  resume  a  less  rigid  diet.  No  sooner  had  I  done  so 
than  the  same  detested  symptoms  revisited  me  ;  my  old  enemy 
resumed  his  pertinacious  assaults,  yet  not  with  his  former  vio- 
lence or  constancy,  and  though  before  I  regained  any  fair 
portion  of  my  ordinary  strength  weeks  had  elapsed,  and 
months  passed  before  the  disorder  left  me,  yet  thanks  to  old 
habits  of  activity,  and  a  merciful  Providence,  I  was  able  to 
sustain  myself  against  it. 

I  used  to  lie  languid  and  dreamy  before  our  tent  and  muse 
on  the  past  and  the  future,  and  when  most  overcome  with  lassi- 
tude, my  eyes  turned  always  toward  the  distant  Black  Hills. 
There  is  a  spirit  of  energy  and  vigor  in  mountains,  and  they 
impart  it  to  all  who  approach  their  presence.  At  that  time  I 
did  not  know  how  many  dark  superstitions  and  gloomy  legends 
^re  associated  with  those  mountains  in  the  minds  of  the  Indians, 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  1^9 

but  I  felt  ail  eager  desire  to  penetrate  their  liidden  recesses, 
to  explore  tlie  awful  chasms  and  precipices,  the  black  torrents, 
the  silent  forests,  that  I  fancied  were  concealed  there. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

ILL  LUCK. 

One  touch  to  her  hand,  aud  oue  word  in  her  ear, 

When  they  reach'd  the  hall  door,  and  the  charger  stood  near  ; 

So  light  to  the  croup  the  fair  lady  he  swung, 

So  light  to  the  saddle  before  hur  he  sprung  ! 

'•  She  is  won  1  we  are  gone,  over  bank,  bush,  and  scaur  ; 

They'll  have  fleet  steeds  that  follow,"  quoth  young  Lochinvar. 

Marmion. 

A  Canadian  came  from  Fort  Laramie,  and  brought  a  curi- 
ous piece  of  intelligence.  A  trapper,  fresh  from  the  moun- 
tains, had  become  enamored  of  a  Missouri  damsel  belonging 
to  a  family  who  with  other  emigrants  had  been  for  some  days 
encamped  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  fort.  If  bravery  be  the 
most  potent  charm  to  win  the  favor  of  tiie  fair,  then  no  wooer 
could  be  more  irresistible  than  a  Rocky  Mountain  trapper.  In 
the  present  instance,  the  suit  was  not  urged  in  vain.  The 
lovers  concerted  a  sclieme,  which  they  proceeded  to  carry  into 
effect  with  all  possible  dispatch.  The  emigrant  part}^  left  the 
fort,  and  on  the  next  succeeding  night  but  one  encamped  as 
usual,  and  placed  a  guard.  A  little  after  midnight  the 
enamored  trapper  drew  near,  mounted  on  a  strong  horse  and 
leading  another  by  the  bridle.  Fastening  both  animals  to  a 
tree,  he  stealtliily  moved  toward  the  wagons,  as  if  he  were 
approaching  a  band  of  buffalo.  Eluding  the  vigilance  of  the 
guard,  who  was  probably  half  asleep,  he  met  his  mistress  by 
appointment  at  the  outskirts  of  the  camp,  mounted  her  on  his 
spare  horse,  and  made  off  with  her  through  the  darkness.  The 
sequel  of  the  adventure  did  not  reach  our  ears,  and  we  never 
learned  how  the  imprudent  fair  one  liked  an  Indian  lodge  for 
a  dwelling,  and  a  reckless  trapper  for  a  bridegroom. 

At  length  The  Whirlwind  and  his  warriors  determined  to 
move.  They  had  resolved  after  all  their  preparations  not  to 
go  to  the  rendezvous  at  La  Bonte*s  camp,  but  to  pass  through 
the  Black  Hills  and  spend  a  few  weeks  in  hunting  the  buffalo 
on  the  other  side,  until  they  had  killed  enough  to  furnish  them 
with  a  stock  of  provisions  and  with  hides  to  make  their  lodges 
for  the  next  season.  This  done,  they  were  to  send  out  a  small 
independent  war  party  against  the  enemy.     Their  final  deter- 


130  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

mination  left  us  in  some  embarrassment.  Should  we  go  to  La 
Bonte's  camp,  it  was  not  impossible  that  the  other  villages 
would  prove  as  vacillating  and  indecisive  as  The  Whirlwind's, 
and  that  no  assembly  whatever  would  take  place.  Our  old 
companion  Reynal  had  conceived  a  liking  for  us,  or  rather  for 
our  biscuit  and  coffee,  and  for  the  occasional  small  presents 
which  we  made  him.  He  was  very  anxious  that  we  should  go 
with  the  village  which  he  himself  intended  to  accompany.  He 
declared  he  was  certain  that  no  Indians  would  meet  at  the 
rendezvous,  and  said  moreover  that  it  would  be  easy  to  convey 
our  cart  and  baggage  through  the  Black  Hills.  In  saying  this, 
he  told  as  usual  an  egregious  falsehood.  Neither  he  nor  any 
white  man  with  us  had  ever  seen  the  difficult  and  obscure 
defiles  through  which  the  Indians  intended  to  make  their 
way.  I  passed  them  afterward,  and  had  much  ado  to  force  my 
distressed  horse  along  the  narrow  ravines,  and  through  chasms 
where  daylight  could  scarcely  penetrate.  Our  cart  might  as 
easily  have  been  conveyed  over  the  summit  of  Pike's  Peak. 
Anticipating  the  difficulties  and  uncertainties  of  an  attempt  to 
visit  the  rendezvous,  we  recalled  the  old  proverb  about  "  A 
bird  in  the  hand,"  and  decided  to  follow  the  village. 

Both  camps,  the]  Indians'  and  our  own,  broke  up  on  the 
morning  of  the  1st  of  July.  I  was  so  weak  that  the  aid  of  a 
potent  auxiliary,  a  spoonful  of  whisky  swallowed  at  short 
intervals,  alone  enabled  me  to  sit  my  hardy  little  mare  Pauline 
through  the  short  journey  of  that  day.  For  half  a  mile  before 
us  and  half  a  mile  behind,  the  prairie  was  covered  far  and 
wide  with  the  moving  throng  of  savages.  The  barren,  broken 
plain  stretched  away  to  the  right  and  left,  and  far  in  front 
rose  the  gloomy  precipitous  ridge  of  the  Black  Hills.  We 
pushed  forward  to  the  head  of  the  scattered  column,  passing 
the  burdened  travaux,  the  heavily  laden  pack  horses,  the 
gaunt  old  women  on  foot,  the  gay  young  squaws  on  horseback, 
the  restless  children  running  among  the  crowd,  old  men  strid- 
ing along  in  their  white  buffalo  robes,  and  groups  of  young 
warriors  mounted  on  their  best  horses.  Henry  Chatillon, 
looking  backward  over  the  distant  prairie,  exclaimed  sud- 
denly that  a  horseman  was  approaching,  and  in  truth  we 
could  just  discern  a  small  black  speck  slowly  moving  over  the 
face  of  a  distant  swell,  like  a  fly  creeping  on  a  wall.  It 
rapidly  grew  larger  as  it  approached. 

"  White  man,  I  b'lieve,"  said  Henry  ;  "  look  how  he  ride  ! 
Indian  never  ride  that  way.  Yes  ;  he  got  rifle  on  the  saddle 
before  him." 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL,  131 

The  horseman  disappeared  in  a  hollow  of  the  prairie,  but 
we  soon  saw  him  again,  and  as  he  came  riding  at  a  gallop 
toward  us  through  the  crowd  of  Indians,  his  long  hair  stream- 
ing in  the  wind  behind  him,  we  recognized  the  ruddy  face 
and  old  buckskin  frock  of  Jean  Gras  the  trapper.  He  was 
just  arrived  from  Fort  Laramie,  where  he  had  been  on  a 
visit,  and  said  he  had  a  message  for  us.  A  trader  named 
Bisonette,  one  of  Henry's  friends,  was  lately  come  from  the 
settlements,  and  intended  to  go  with  a  party  of  men  to  La 
Bonte's  camp,  where,  as  Jean  Gras  assured  us,  ten  or  twelve 
villages  of  Indians  would  certainly  assemble.  Bisonette 
desired  that  we  would  cross  over  and  meet  him  there,  and 
promised  that  his  men  should  protect  our  horses  and  baggage 
while  we  went  among  tlie  Indians.  Shaw  and  I  stopi)ed  our 
horses  and  held  a  council,  and  in  an  evil  hour  resolved  to  go. 

For  the  rest  of  that  day's  journey  our  course  and  that  of 
the  Indians  was  the  same.  In  less  than  an  hour  we  came  to 
where  the  high  barren  prairie  terminated,  sinking  down 
abruptly  in  steep  descent ;  and  standing  on  these  heights,  we 
saw  below  us  a  great  level  meadow.  Laramie  Creek  bounded 
it  on  the  left,  sweeping  along  in  the  shadow  of  the  declivities, 
and  passing  with  its  shallow  and  rapid  current  just  below  us. 
We  sat  on  horseback,  waiting  and  looking  on,  while  the  whole 
savage  array  went  pouring  past  us,  hurr^ang  down  the  descent 
and  spreading  themselves  over  the  meadow  below.  In  a  few 
moments  the  plain  was  swarming  with  the  moving  multitude, 
some  just  visible,  like  specks  in  the  distance,  others  still  pass- 
ing on,  pressing  down,  and  fording  the  stream  with  bustle 
and  confusion.  On  the  edge  of  the  heights  sat  half  a  dozen 
of  the  elder  warriors,  gravely  smoking  and  looking  down 
with  unmoved  faces  on  the  wild  and  striking  spectacle. 

Up  went  the  lodges  in  a  circle  on  the  margin  of  the  stream. 
For  the  sake  of  quiet  we  pitched  our  tent  among  some  trees 
at  half  a  mile's  distance.  In  the  afternoon  we  were  in  the 
village.  The  day  was  a  glorious  one,  and  the  whole  camp 
seemed  lively  and  animated  in  sympathy.  Groups  of  children 
and  young  girls  were  laughing  gayly  on  the  outside  of  the 
lodges.  The  shields,  the  lances,  and  the  bows  were  removed 
from  the  tall  tripods  on  which  they  usually  hung  before  the 
dwellings  of  their  owners.  The  warriors  were  mounting  their 
horses,  and  one  by  one  riding  away  over  the  prairie  toward 
the  neighboring  hills. 

Shaw  and  I  sat  on  the  grass  near  the  lodge  of  Reynal. 
An  old  woman,  with  true  Indian  hospitality,  brought  a  bowl 


132  TEIi:  CALIFORNIA  AND  OMEGON  TRAIL. 

of  boiled  venison  and  placed  it  before  us.  We  amused  our- 
selves with  watching  half  a  dozen  young  squaws  who  were 
playing  together  and  chasing  each  other  in  and  out  of  one  of 
the  lodges.  Suddenly  the  wild  yell  of  the  war  wlioop  came 
pealing  from  the  hills.  A  crowd  of  horsemen  appeared,  rush- 
ing down  their  sides  and  riding  at  full  speed  toward  the  vil- 
lage, each  warrior's  long  hair  tlying  behind  him  in  the  wind 
like  a  ship's  streamer.  As  they  approached,  the  confused 
throng  assumed  a  regular  order,  and  entering  two  by  two, 
they  circled  round  the  area  at  full  gallop,  each  warrior  sing- 
ing his  war  song  as  he  rode.  Some  of  their  dresses  were 
splendid.  They  wore  superb  crests  of  feathers  and  close 
tunics  of  antelope  skins,  fringed  with  the  scalp-locks  of  their 
enemies  ;  their  shields  too  were  often  fluttering  with  the  war 
eagle's  feathers.  All  had  bows  and  ari-ows  at  their  backs; 
some  carried  long  lances,  and  a  few  were  armed  with  guns. 
The  White  Shield,  their  partisan,  rode  in  gorgeous  attire  at 
their  head,  mounted  on  a  black-and-white  horse.  Mahto- 
Tatonka  and  his  brothers  took  no  part  in  this  parade,  for  they 
were  in  mourning  for  their  sister,  and  \Vere  all  sitting  in  their 
lodges,  their  bodies  bedaubed  from  head  to  foot  with  white 
clay,  and  a  lock  of  hair  cut  from  each  of  their  foreheads. 

The  warriors  circled  three  times  round  the  village  ;  and  as 
each  distinguished  champion  passed,  the  old  women  would 
scream  out  his  name  in  honor  of  his  bravery,  and  to  incite 
the  emulation  of  the  younger  warriors.  Little  urchins,  not 
two  years  old,  followed  the  warlike  pageant  with  glittering 
eyes,  and  looked  with  eager  wonder  and  admiration  at  those 
whose  honors  were  proclaimed  by  the  public  voice  of  the  vil- 
lage. Thus  early  is  the  lesson  of  war  instilled  into  the  mind 
of  an  Indian,  and  such  are  the  stimulants  which  excite  his 
thirst  for  martial  renown. 

The  procession  rode  out  of  the  village  as  it  had  entered  it, 
and  in  half  an  hour  all  the  warriors  had  returned  again,  drop- 
ping quietly  in,  singly  or  in  parties  of  two  or  three. 

As  the  sun  rose  next  morning  we  looked  across  the  meadow, 
and  could  see  the  lodges  leveled  and  the  Indians  gathering 
together  in  preparation  to  leave  the  camp.  Their  course  lay 
to  the  w^estward.  We  turned  toward  the  north  with  our 
three  men,  the  four  trappers  following  us,  with  the  Indian 
family  of  Moran.  We  traveled  until  night.  I  suffered  not  a 
little  from  pain  and  weakness.  We  encamped  among  some 
trees  by  the  side  of  a  little  brook,  and  here  during  the  whole 
of  the  next  day  we  lay  waiting  for  Bisonette,  but  no  Bisonette 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  133 

appeared.  Here  also  two  of  our  tra])per  friends  left  us,  and 
set  out  for  the  Rocky  Mountains.  On  the  second  morning, 
despairing  of  Bisonette's  arrival,  we  resumed  our  journey, 
traversing  a  forlorn  and  dreary  monotony  of  sun-sorched 
plains,  .where  no  living  thing  appeared  save  here  and  there  an 
antelope  flying  before  us  like  the  wind.  When  noon  came 
we  saw  an  unwonted  and  most  welcome  sight ;  a  rich  and 
luxuriant  growth  of  trees,  marking  the  course  of  a  little  stream 
called  Horseshoe  Creek.  We  turned  gladly  toward  it.  There 
were  lofty  and  spreading  trees,  standing  widely  asunder,  and 
supporting  a  thick  canopy  of  leaves,  above  a  surface  of  rich, 
tall  grass.  The  stream  ran  swiftly,  as  clear  as  crj^stal,  through 
the  bosom  of  the  wood,  sparkling  over  its  bed  of  wliite  sand 
and  darkening  again  as  it  entered  a  deep  cavern  of  leaves  and 
boughs.  I  was  th'^  oughly  exhausted,  and  flung  myself  on 
the  ground,  scarcely  able  to  move.  All  that  afternoon  I  lay 
in  tlie  shade  by  the  side  of  the  stream,  and  those  bright  woods 
and  sparkling  waters  are  associated  in  my  mind  with  recollec- 
tions of  lassitude  and  utter  prostration.  When  niglit  came 
I  sat  down  by  the  fii'e,  longing,  with  an  intensity  of  which 
at  this  moment  I  can  hardly  conceive,  for  some  powerful 
stimulant. 

In  the  morning  as  glorious  a  sun  rose  upon  us  as  ever  ani- 
mated that  desolate  wilderness.  AVe  advanced  and  soon  were 
surrounded  by  tall  bare  hills,  overspread  from  top  to  bottom 
with  prickly-pears  and  other  cacti,  that  seemed  like  clinging 
reptiles.  A  plain,  flat  and  hard,  and  with  scarcely  the  vestige 
of  grass,  lay  before  us,  and  a  line  of  tall  misshapen  trees 
bounded  the  onward  view.  There  was  no  sight  or  sound  of 
man  or  beast,  or  any  living  thing,  altliough  behind  those  trees 
was  the  long-looked-for  place  of  rendezvous,  where  we  fondly 
hoped  to  have  found  the  Indians  congregated  by  thousands. 
We  looked  and  listened  anxiously.  We  pushed  forward  with 
our  best  speed,  and  forced  our  horses  through  the  trees. 
There  were  copses  of  some  extent  beyond,  with  a  scanty 
stream  creeping  through  their  midst  ;  and  as  we  pressed 
through  the  yielding  branches,  deer  sprang  up  to  the  right 
and  left.  At  length  we  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  prairie  be- 
yond. Soon  we  emerged  upon  it,  and  saw,  not  a  plain 
covered  witli  encampments  and  swarming  with  life,  but  a 
vast  unbroken  desert  stretching  away  before  us  league  upon 
league,  without  a  bush  or  a  tree  or  anything  that  had  life. 
We  drew  rein  and  gave  to  the  winds  our  sentiments  concern- 
ing the  whole  aboriginal  race  of  America.     Our  journey  was 


134  THE  CALIFORNIA  AKD  OREGON  TRAIL. 

in  vain,  and  much  worse  than  in  vain.  For  myself,  I  was 
vexed  and  disappointed  beyond  measure  ;  as  I  well  knew 
that  a  slight  aggravation  of  my  disorder  would  render  this 
false  step  irrevocable,  and  make  it  quite  impossible  to  accom- 
plish effectually  the  design  which  had  led  me  an  arduous 
journey  of  between  three  and  four  thousand  miles.  To 
fortify  myself  as  well  as  I  could  against  such  a  contingency, 
I  resolved  that  I  would  not  under  any  circumstances  attempt 
to  leave  the  country  until  raj^  object  was  completely  gained. 

And  where  were  the  Indians?  They  were  assembled  in 
great  numbers  at  a  spot  about  twenty  miles  distant,  and  there 
at  that  very  moment  they  were  engaged  in  their  warlike  cere- 
monies. The  scarcity  of  buffalo  in  the  vicinity  of  La  Bonte's 
camp,  which  would  render  their  supply  of  provisions  scanty 
and  precarious,  had  probably  prevented  'them  from  assem- 
bling there  ;  but  of  all  this  we  knew  nothing  until  some 
weeks  after. 

Shaw  lashed  his  horse  and  galloped  forward.  I,  though 
much  more  vexed  than  he,  was  not  strong  enough  to  adopt 
this  convenient  vent  to  my  feelings  ;  so  I  followed  at  a  quiet 
pace,  but  in-  no  quiet  mood.  We  rode  up  to  a  solitary  old 
tree,  which  seemed  the  only  place  fit  for  encampment.  Half 
its  branches  were  dead,  and  the  rest  were  so  scantily  furnished 
with  leaves  that  they  cast  but  a  meager  and  wretched  shade, 
and  the  old  twisted  trunk  alone  furnished  sufficient  protection 
from  the  sun.  We  threw  down  our  saddles  in  the  strip  of 
shadow  that  it  cast,  and  sat  down  upon  them.  In  silent  in- 
dignation we  remained  smoking  for  an  hour  or  more,  shifting 
ouV  saddles  with  the  shifting  shadow,  for  the  sun  was  intoler- 
ably hot. 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

HUNTING   INDIANS. 

I  tread, 
"With  fainting  steps  and  slow, 
Where  wilds  immeasurably  spread 
Seem  lengthening  as  I  go. 

Goldsmith. 

At  last  we  had  reached  La  Bonte's  camp,  toward  which 
our  eyes  had  turned  so  long.  Of  all  weary  hours,  those  that 
])assed  between  noon  and  sunset  of  the  day  wlien  we  arrived 
there  ma}^  bear  awaj'^  the  palm  of  exquisite  discomfort.  I  lay 
under  the  tree  reflecting  on  what  course  to  pursue,  watching 
the  shadows  which  seemed  never  to  move,  and  the  sun  which 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  135 

remained  fixed  in  the  sky,  and  hoping  every  moment  to  see 
the  men  and  horses  of  Bisonette  emerging  from  tlie  woods. 
Shaw  and  Henry  liad  ridden  out  on  a  scouting  expedition,  and 
did  not  return  until  the  sun  was  setting.  There  was  notlung 
very  cheering  in  their  faces  nor  in  the  news  they  brought. 

"We  have  been  ten  miles  from  here,"  said  Sliaw.  "We 
climbed  the  highest  butte  we  could  find,  and  could  not  see 
a  buffalo  or  Indian  ;  nothing  but  prairie  for  twenty  miles 
around  us." 

Henry's  horse  was  quite  disabled  by  clambering  up  and 
down  the  sides  of  ravines,  and  Shaw's  was  severel}"  fatigued. 

After  supper  that  evening,  as  we  sat  around  the  fire,  I  pro- 
posed to  Sliaw  to  wait  one  day  longer  in  hopes  of  Bisonette's 
arrival,  and  if  he  should  not  come  to  send  Delorier  with  the 
cart  and  baggage  back  to  Fort  Laramie,  while  we  ourselves 
followed  The  Whirlwind's  village  and  attempted  to  overtake 
it  as  it  passed  the  mountains.  Shaw,  not  having  the  same 
motive  for  hunting  Indians  that  I  had,  was  averse  to  the 
plan  ;  I  therefore  resolved  to  go  alone.  This  design  I  a(lo])ted 
very  unwillingly,  for  I  knew  that  in  the  present  state  of  my 
health  the  attempt  would  be  extremely  unpleasant,  and  as  I 
considered,  hazardous.  I  hoped  that  Bisonette  would  a])pear 
in  the  course  of  the  following  day,  and  bring  us  some  informa- 
tion by  which  to  direct  our  course,  and  enable  me  to  accom- 
plish my  purpose  by  means  less  objectionable. 

The  rifle  of  Henry  Chatillon  was  necessary  for  the  subsist- 
ence of  the  party  in  my  absence  ;  so  I  called  Raymond,  and 
ordered  him  to  prepare  to  set  out  wnth  me.  Raymond  rolled 
liis  eyes  vacantly  about,  but  at  length,  having  succeeded  in 
grappling  with  the  idea,  he  withdrew  to  his  bed  under  the 
cart.  He  was  a  heavy-molded  fellow,  with  a  broad  face 
exactly  like  an  owl's,  expressing  the  most  impenetrable  stupidity 
and  entire  self-confidence.  As  for  his  good  qualities,  he  had 
a  sort  of  stubborn  fidelity,  an  insensibility  to  danger,  and  a 
kind  of  instinct  or  sagacity,  which  sometimes  led  him  right, 
where  better  heads  than  his  were  at  a  loss.  Besides  this,  he 
knew  very  well  how  to  handle  a  rifle  and  picket  a  horse. 

Through  the  following  day  the  sun  glared  down  upon  us 
with  a  pitiless,  penetrating  heat.  The  distant  blue  prairie 
seemed  quivering  under  it.  The  lodge  of  our  Indian  associ- 
ates was  baking  in  the  rays,  and  our  rifles,  as  they  leaned 
against  the  tree,  were  too  hot  for  the  touch.  There  was  a 
dead  silence  through  our  camp  and  all  around  it,  unbroken 
except  by  the  hum  of  ornats  and  mosquitoes.     The  men,  rest- 


136  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

ing  their  foreheads  on  their  arms,  were  sleeping  under  the 
cart.  The  Indians  kept  close  within  their  lodge  except  the 
newly  married  pair,  who  were  seated  together  under  an  awn- 
ing of  buffalo  robes,  and  the  old  conjurer,  who  with  his  hard, 
emaciated  face  and  gaunt  ribs  was  perched  aloft  like  a  turkey 
buzzard,  among  the  dead  branches  of  an  old  tree,  constantly 
on  the  lookout  for  enemies.  He  would  have  made  a  capital 
shot.  A  rifle  bullet,  skillfully  planted,  would  have  brought 
him  tumbling  to  the  ground.  Sureh'^,  I  thought,  there  could 
be  no  more  harm  in  shooting  such  a  hideous  old  villain,  to 
see  how  ugly  he  would  look  when  he  was  dead,  than  in  shoot- 
ing the  detestable  vulture  which  he  resembled.  We  dined, 
and  then  Shaw  saddled  his  horse. 

"I  will  ride  back,"  said  he,  "to  Horseshoe  Creek,  and  see 
if  Bisonette  is  there." 

"  I  would  go  with  you,"  I  answered,  "  but  I  must  reserve 
all  the  strength  I  have." 

The  afternoon  dragged  away  at  last.  I  occupied  myself  in 
cleaning  my  rifle  and  pistols,  and  making  other  preparations 
for  the  journey.  After  supper,  Henry  Chatillon  and  I  lay 
by  the  fire,  discussing  the  properties  of  that  admirable  weapon, 
the  rifle,  in  the  use  of  which  he  could  fairly  outrival  Leather- 
stocking  himself. 

It  was  late  before  I  wrapped  myself  in  my  blanket  and  lay 
down  for  tlie  night,  with  my  head  on  my  saddle.  Shaw  had 
not  returned,  but  this  gave  us  no  uneasiness,  for  we  presumed 
that  he  had  fallen  in  with  Bisonette,  and  was  spending  the 
night  with  him.  For  a  day  or  two  past  I  had  gained  in 
strength  and  healtii,  but  about  midnight  an  attack  of  pain 
awoke  me,  and  for  some  hours  I  felt  no  inclination  to  sleep. 
The  moon  was  quivering  on  the  broad  breast  of  the  Platte  ; 
nothing  could  be  heard  except  those  low  inexplicable  sounds, 
like  whisperings  and  footsteps,  which  no  one  who  has  spent 
the  night  alone  amid  deserts  and  forests  will  be  at  a  loss  to 
understand.  As  I  was  falling  asleep,  a  familiar  voice,  shout- 
ing from  the  distance,  awoke  me  again.  A  rapid  step 
approached  the  camp,  and  Shaw  on  foot,  with  his  gun  in  his 
hand,  hastily  entered. 

"  Where's  your  horse  ?  "  said  I,  raising  myself  on  my  elbow. 

"  Lost  !  "  said  Shaw.     "  Where's  Delorier  ?  " 

"  There,"  I  replied,  pointing  to  a  confused  mass  of  blankets 
and  buffalo  robes. 

Shaw  touched  them  with  the  butt  of  his  gun,  and  up  sprang 
our  faithful  Canadian. 


THE  CALIFORJSIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL.  137 

"  Come,  Delorier  ;  stir  up  the  fire,  and  get  me  something  to 
eat." 

"  Where's  Bisonette  ?  "  asked  I. 

"  The  Lord  knows  ;  there's  nobody  at  Horseshoe  Creek." 

Shaw  had  gone  back  to  the  spot  where  we  had  encamped 
two  days  before,  and  finding  nothing  there  but  the  ashes  of  our 
fires,  he  had  tied  his  horse  to  the  tree  while  lie  batlied  in  the 
stream.  Something  startled  his  horse,  who  broke  loose,  and 
for  two  hours  Shaw  tried  in  vain  to  catcli  him.  Sunset 
approached,  and  it  was  twelve  miles  to  camp.  So  he  abandoned 
tlie  attempt,  and  set  out  on  foot  to  join  us.  The  greater  part 
of  his  perilous  and  solitary  work  was  performed  in  darkness. 
His  moccasins  Avere  worn  to  tatters  and  his  feet  severely 
lacerated.  He  sat  down  to  eat,  however,  with  tlie  usual  equa- 
nimity of  his  temper  not  at  all  disturbed  by  his  misfortune,  and 
my  last  recollection  before  falling  asleep  was  of  Shaw,  seated 
cross-legged  before  the  fire,  smoking  his  pipe.  The  horse,  I 
may  as  well  mention  here,  was  found  the  next  morning  by 
Henry  Chatillon. 

Wlien  I  awoke  again  there  was  a  fresh  damp  smell  in  the 
air,  a  gray  twilight  involved  the  prairie,  and  above  its  eastern 
verge  was  a  streak  of  cold  red  ^Vy.  I  called  to  the  men,  and 
in  a  moment  a  fire  was  blazing  brightly  in  the  dim  morning 
light,  and  breakfast  was  getting  ready.  We  sat  down  together 
on  the  grass,  to  the  last  civilized  meal  which  Raymond  and  I 
were  destined  to  enjoy  for  some  time. 

"  Now  bring  in  the  horses." 

My  little  mare  Pauline  was  soon  standing  b}''  the  fire.  She 
was  a  fleet,  hardy,  and  gentle  animal,  christened  after  Paul 
Dorion,  from  whom  I  had  procured  her  in  exchange  for  Pon- 
tiac.  She  did  not  look  as  if  equipped  for  a  morning  pleasure 
ride.  In  front  of  the  black,  high-bowed  mountain  saddle, 
holsters,  with  heavy  pistols,  were  fastened.  A  i)air  of  saddle 
bags,  a  blanket  tightly  rolled,  a  small  parcel  of  Indian  presents 
tied  up  in  :.  buffalo  skin,  a  leather  bag  of  flour,  and  a  smaller 
one  of  tea  were  all  secured  behind,  and  a  long  trail-rope  was 
wound  round  her  neck.  Raymond  had  a  strong  black  mule, 
equij)ped  in  a  similar  manner.  We  crammed  our  powder- 
horns  to  the  tliroat,  and  mounted. 

"  I  will  meet  you  at  Fort  Laramie  on  the  1st  of  August," 
said  I  to  Shaw. 

"  That  is,"  replied  he,  "  if  we  don't  meet  before  that.  I 
think  T  sliall  follow  after  you  in  a  day  or  two." 

Tliis  in  fact  he  attempted,  and  he  would  have  succeeded  if 


138  THE  CALIFOENIA  AND  OREGON  TBAIL. 

he  had  not  encountered  obstacles  against  which  his  resolute 
spirit  was  of  no  avail.  Two  days  after  I  left  him  he  sent 
Delorier  to  the  fort  with  the  cart  and  baggage,  and  set  out 
for  the  mountains  with  Henry  Chatillon  ;  but  a  tremendous 
thunderstorm  had  deluged  the  prairie,  and  nearly  obliterated 
not  only  our  trail  but  that  of  the  Indians  themselves.  They 
followed  along  the  base  of  the  mountains,  at  a  loss  in  which 
direction  to  go.  They  encamped  there,  and  in  the  morning 
Shaw  found  himself  poisoned  by  ivy  in  such  a  manner  that  it 
was  impossible  for  him  to  travel.  So  they  turned  back  reluct- 
antly toward  Fort  Laramie.  Shaw's  limbs  were  swollen  to 
double  tlieir  usual  size,  and  he  rode  in  great  pain.  They 
encamped  again  within  twenty  miles  of  the  fort,  and  reached 
it  early  on  the  following  morning.  Shaw  lay  seriously  ill  for 
a  week,  and  remained  at  the  fort  till  I  rejoined  him  some  time 
after. 

To  return  to  my  own  story.  We  shook  hands  with  our 
friends,  rode  out  upon  the  prairie,  and  clambering  the  sandj^ 
hollows  that  were  channeled  in  the  sides  of  the  hills,  gained 
the  high  plains  above.  If  a  curse  had  been  pronounced  upon 
the  land,  it  could  not  have  worn  an  aspect  of  more  dreary  and 
forlorn  barrenness.  There  were  abrupt  broken  hills,  deep 
hollows,  and  wide  plains  ;  but  all  alike  glared  with  an  insup- 
portable whiteness  under  the  burning  sun.  The  countr}^,  as 
if  parched  by  the  heat,  had  cracked  into  innumerable  fissures 
and  ravines,  that  not  a  little  impeded  our  progress.  Their 
steep  sides  were  white  and  raw,  and  along  the  bottom  we 
several  times  discovered  the  broad  tracks  of  the  terrific  grizzly 
bear,  nowhere  more  abundant  than  in  this  region.  The 
ridges  of  the  hills  were  hard  as  rock,  and  strewn  with  pebbles 
of  flint  and  coarse  red  jasper  ;  looking  from  them,  there  was 
nothing  to  relieve  the  desert  uniformity  of  the  prospect,  save 
here  and  there  a  pine  tree  clinging  at  the  edge  of  a  ravine, 
and  stretching  over  its  rough,  shaggy  arms.  Under  the 
scorching  heat  these  melancholy  trees  diffused  their  peculiar 
resinous  odor  through  the  sultry  air.  There  was  something 
in  it,  as  I  approached  them,  that  recalled  old  associations  ; 
the  pine-clad  mountains  of  New  England,  traversed  in  days  of 
health  and  buoyancy,  rose  like  a  realit}^  before  my  fancy. 
In  passing  that  arid  waste  I  was  goaded  with  a  morbid  thirst 
produced  by  my  disorder,  and  I  thought  with  a  longing  desire 
on  the  crystal  treasure  poured  in  such  wasteful  profusion  from 
our  thousand  hills.  Shutting  my  eyes,  I  more  than  half 
believed  that  I  heard  the   deep   plunging   and  gurgling  of 


THE  CALIFORNIA   AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  139 

waters  in  the  bowels  of  the  shaded  rocks.  I  could  see  their 
dark  icy  glittering  far  down  amid  the  crevices,  and  the  cold 
drops  trickling  from  the  long  green  mosses. 

When  noon  came,  we  found  a  little  stream,  with  a  few  trees 
and  buslies ;  and  here  we  rested  for  an  liour.  Then  we 
traveled  on,  guided  by  tlie  sun,  until,  just  before  sunset,  we 
reached  another  stream,  called  Bitter  Cotton -wood  Creek.  A 
tliick  growth  of  bushes  and  old  storm-beaten  trees  grew  at 
intervals  along  its  bank.  Near  the  foot  of  one  of  the  trees 
we  flung  down  our  saddles,  and  hobbling  our  horses  turned 
them  loose  to  feed.  The  little  stream  was  clear  and  swift, 
and  ran  musically  on  its  white  sands.  Small  water  birds 
were  splashing  in  the  shallows,  and  filling  the  air  with 
their  cries  and  flutterings.  The  sun  was  just  sinking  among 
gold  and  crimson  clouds  behind  Mount  Laramie.  I  well 
remember  how  I  lay  upon  a  log  by  the  margin  of  the  water, 
and  watched  the  restless  motions  of  the  little  fish  in  a  deep 
still  nook  below.  Strange  to  say,  I  seemed  to  have  gained 
strength  since  the  morning,  and  almost  felt  a  sense  of  return- 
ing health. 

We  built  our  fire.  Night  came,  and  the  wolves  began  to 
howl.  One  deep  voice  commenced,  and  it  was  answered  in 
awful  responses  from  the  hills,  the  plains,  and  the  woods  along 
the  stream  above  and  below  us.  Such  sounds  need  not  and  do 
not  disturb  one's  sleep  upon  the  prairie.  We  picketed  the  mare 
and  the  mule  close  at  our  feet,  and  did  not  awake  until  day- 
light. Then  we  turned  them  loose,  still  hobbled,  to  feed  for 
an  hour  before  starting.  We  were  getting  ready  our  morn- 
ing's meal,  when  Raymond  saw  an  antelope  at  half  a  mile's  dis- 
tance, and  said  he  would  go  and  shoot  it. 

"  Your  business,"  said  I,  "  is  to  look  after  the  animals.  I  am 
too  weak  to  do  much,  if  anything  happens  to  them,  and  you 
must  keep  within  sight  of  the  camp." 

Raymond  promised,  and  set  out  with  his  rifle  in  his  hand. 
The  animals  had  passed  across  the  stream,  and  were  feeding 
among  the  long  grass  on  the  other  side,  much  tormented  by 
the  attacks  of  the  numerous  large  green-headed  flies.  As 
I  watched  them,  I  saw  them  go  down  into  a  hollow,  and  as 
several  minutes  elapsed  without  their  reappearing,  I  waded 
through  the  stream  to  look  after  them.  To  my  vexation  and 
alarm  I  discovered  them  at  a  great  distan(;e,  galloping  away 
at  full  speed,  Pauline  in  advance,  with  her  hobbles  broken, 
and  the  mule,  still  fettered,  following  with  awkward  leaps. 
I  fired  my  rifle  and  sliouted  to  recall  Raymond,     Tn  a  moment 


140  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL, 

he  came  running  through  the  stream,  with  a  red  handkerchief 
bound  round  his  head.  I  pointed  to  the  fugitives,  and  ordered 
him  to  pursue  them.  Muttering  a  "  Sacre ! "  between  his 
teeth,  he  set  out  at  full  speed,  still  swinging  his  rifle  in  his 
hand.  I  walked  up  to  tlie  top  of  a  hill,  and  looking  away 
over  the  prairie,  could  just  distinguish  the  runaways,  still  at 
full  gallop.  Returning  to  the  fire,  I  sat  down  at  the  foot  of 
a  tree.  Wearily  and  anxiously  hour  after  hour  passed  away. 
The  old  loose  bark  dangling  from  the  trunk  behind  me  flapped 
to  and  fro  in  the  wind,  and  the  mosquitoes  kept  up  their  inces- 
sant drowsy  humming  ;  but  other  than  this,  there  was  no  sight 
nor  sound  of  life  throughout  the  burning  landscape.  The 
sun  rose  higher  and  higher,  until  the  shadows  fell  almost  per- 
pendicularly, and  I  knew  that  it  must  be  noon.  It  seemed 
scarcely  possible  that  the  animals  could  be  recovered.  If  they 
were  not,  my  situation  was  one  of  serious  difiiculty.  Shaw, 
when  I  left  him,  had  decided  to  move  that  morning,  but 
whither  he  had  not  determined.  To  look  for  him  would  be 
a  vain  attempt.  Fort  Laramie  was  forty  miles  distant,  and 
I  could  not  walk  a  mile  without  great  effort.  Not  then  hav- 
ing learned  the  sound  philosophy  of  yielding  to  dispro- 
portionate obstacles,  I  resolved  to  continue  in  any  event  the 
pursuit  of  the  Indians.  Only  one  plan  occurred  to  me  ;  this 
was  to  send  Raymond  to  the  fort  with  an  order  for  more 
horses,  while  I  remained  on  the  spot,  awaiting  his  return, 
which  might  take  place  within  three  days.  But  the  adoption 
of  this  resolution  did  not  wholly  allay  my  anxiety,  for  it  in- 
volved botli  uncertainty  and  danger.  To  remain  stationary 
and  alone  for  three  days,  in  a  country  full  of  dangerous  Indians, 
was  not  the  most  flattering  of  prospects  ;  and  protracted  as 
my  Indian  hunt  must  be  by  such  delay,  it  was  not  easy  to 
foretell  its  ultimate  result.  Revolving  these  matters,  I  grew 
hungry ;  and  as  our  stock  of  provisions,  except  four  or  five 
pounds  of  flour,  was  by  this  time  exhausted,  I  left  the  camp 
to  see  what  game  I  could  find.  Nothing  could  be  seen  except 
four  or  five  large  curlew,  which,  with  their  loud  screaming, 
were  wheeling  over  my  head,  and  now  and  then  alighting 
upon  the  prairie.  I  shot  two  of  them,  and  was  about  return- 
ing, when  a  startling  sight  caught  my  eye.  A  small,  dark 
object,  like  a  human  head,  suddenly  appeared,  and  vanished 
among  the  thick  bushes  along  the  stream  below.  In  that 
country  every  stranger  is  a  suspected  enemy.  Instinctively 
I  threw  forward  the  muzzle  of  my  rifle.  In  a  moment  the 
bushes  were   violently   shaken,  two   heads,  but   not   human 


THE  CALlFOBNtA  AIS'D  OREGON  TRAIL,  141 

beads,  protruded,  and  to  my  great  joy  I  recognized  the 
downcast,  discousoljite  countenance  of  the  black  mule  and 
the  yellow  visage  of  Pauline.  Raymond  came  upon  the  mule, 
pale  and  haggard,  complaining  of  a  tiery  pain  in  bis  chest.  I 
took  charge  of  the  animals  while  be  kneeled  down  by  the  side 
of  the  stream  to  drink.  He  had  kept  the  runaways  in  sigbt  as 
far  as  the  Side  Fork  of  Laramie  Creek,  a  distance  of  more  than 
ten  miles ;  and  here  with  great  difficulty  be  bad  succeeded  in 
catching  them.  I  saw  that  he  was  unarmed,  and  asked  him 
what  be  bad  done  witb  his  rifle.  It  had  encumbered  him  in 
bis  pursuit,  and  he  had  dropped  it  on  the  prairie,  thinking  that 
be  could  iind  it  on  bis  return  ;  but  in  this  he  bad  failed.  The 
loss  might  prove  a  very  formidable  one.  I  was  too  mucb  re- 
joiced however  at  tlie  recovery  of  the  animals  to  think  mucb 
about  it  ;  and  having  made  some  tea  for  Raymond  in  a  tin  ves- 
sel which  we  had  brought  with  us,  I  told  him  that  I  would  give 
him  two  hours  for  resting  before  we  set  out  again.  He  had 
eaten  nothing  tbat  day  ;  but  having  no  appetite,  be  lay  down 
immediately  to  sleep.  I  picketed  the  animals  among  the  rich- 
est grass  tbat  I  could  find,  and  made  fires  of  green  wood  to  pro- 
tect them  from  the  flies  ;  then  sitting  down  again  by  the  tree, 
I  w^atcbed  the  slow  movements  of  the  sun,  begrudging  every 
moment  tbat  passed. 

The  time  I  had  mentioned  expired,  and  I  awoke  Raymond. 
We  saddled  and  set  out  again,  but  first  we  went  in  searcb  of 
the  lost  rifle,  and  in  the  course  of  an  hour  Raymond  was 
fortunate  enough  to  find  it.  Then  we  turned  westward,  and 
moved  over  the  bills  and  hollows  at  a  slow  pace  toward  the 
Black  Hills.  The  beat  no  longer  tormented  us,  for  a  cloud 
was  before  the  sun.  Yet  that  day  shall  never  be  marked  with 
white  in  my  calendar.  The  air  began  to  grow  fresb  and  cool, 
the  distant  mountains  frowned  more  gloomily,  there  was  alow 
muttering  of  thunder,  and  dense  black  masses  of  cloud  rose 
heavily  behind  the  broken  peaks.  At  first  the}^  were  gayly 
fringed  with  silver  by  the  afternoon  sun  ;  but  soon  the  thick 
blackness  overspread  the  whole  sk}',  and  the  desert  around  us 
was  wrapped  in  deep  gloom.  I  scarcely  heeded  it  at  the  time, 
but  now  I  cannot  but  feel  tbat  there  was  an  awful  sublimity  in 
the  hoarse  murmuring  of  the  thunder,  in  the  somber  shadows 
tbat  involved  the  mountains  and  the  ])]ain.  The  storm  broke. 
It  came  upon  us  with  a  zigzag  blinding  flash,  witb  a  terrific 
crasb  of  thunder,  and  with  a  hurricane  that  howled  over  the 
prairie,  dashing  floods  of  water  against  us.  Raymond  looked 
round,  and  cursed  the  merciless  elements.     Tbere  seemed  uo 


142  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OnEGON  TRAIL. 

shelter  near,  but  we  discerned  at  length  a  deep  ravine  gashed 
in  the  level  prairie,  and  saw  halfway  down  its  side  an  old 
pine  tree,  whose  rough  horizontal  boughs  formed  a  sort  of  pent- 
house against  the  tempest.  We  found  a  practicable  passage, 
and  hastily  descending,  fastened  our  animals  to  some  large 
loose  stones  at  the  bottom  ;  then  climbing  up,  we  drew  our 
blankets  over  our  heads,  and  seated  ourselves  close  beneath  the 
old  tree.  Perhaps  I  was  no  competent  judge  of  time,  but  it 
seemed  to  me  that  we  were  sitting  tliere  a  full  hour,  while 
around  us  poured  a  deluge  of  rain,  through  which  the  rocks  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  gulf  were  barely  visible.  The  first 
burst  of  the  tempest  soon  subsided,  but  the  rain  poured  steadily. 
At  length  Raymond  grew  impatient,  and  scrambling  out  of 
tiie  ravine,  he  gained  the  level  prairie  above. 

"  What  does  the  weather  look  like  ?  "  asked  I,  from  my 
seat  under  the  tree. 

" It  looks  bad,"  he  answered  ;  "dark  all  around,"  and  again 
he  descended  and  sat  down  by  my  side.  Some  ten  minutes 
elapsed. 

"  Go  up  again,"  said  I,  "  and  take  another  look  ; "  and  he 
clambered  up  the  precipice.     "  Well,  how  is  it  ?  " 

"  Just  the  same,  only  I  see  one  little  bright  spot  over  the 
top  of  the  mountain." 

The  rain  by  this  time  had  begun  to  abate  ;  and  going  down 
to  the  bottom  of  tlie  ravine,  we  loosened  the  animals,  who 
were  standing  up  to  tlieir  knees  in  water.  Leading  them  up 
the  rocky  throat  of  the  ravine,  we  reached  the  plain  above. 
"Am  I,"  I  thought  to  myself,  "  the  same  man  who,  a  few 
montlis  since,  was  seated,  a  quiet  student  of  belles-lettres ,  in 
a  cushioned  armchair  by  a  sea-coal  fire  ?  " 

All  around  us  was  obscurity  ;  but  the  briglit  spot  above 
the  mountain-tops  grew  wider  and  ruddier,  until  at  length 
the  clouds  drew  apart,  and  a  flood  of  sunbeams  poured  down 
from  heaven,  streaming  along  the  precipices,  and  involving 
them  in  a  thin  blue  haze,  as  soft  and  lovely  as  that  which 
wraps  the  Apennines  on  an  evening  in  spring.  Rapidly  the 
clouds  were  broken  and  scattered,  like  routed  legions  of  evil 
spirits.  The  plain  lay  basking  in  sunbeams  around  us  ;  a 
rainbow  arched  the  desert  from  north  to  south,  and  far  in  front 
a  line  of  woods  seemed  inviting  us  to  refreshment  and  repose. 
When  we  reached  them,  they  were  glistening  with  prismatic 
dew-drops,  and  enlivened  by  the  song  and  flutterings  of  a 
hundred  birds.  Strange  winged  insects,  benumbed  by  the 
rain,  were  clinging  to  the  leaves  and  the  bark  of  the  trees. 


THE  CALIFOnmA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  143 

Raymond  kindled  a  fire  with  great  difficulty.  The  animals 
turned  eagerly  to  feed  on  the  soft  rich  grass,  while  I,  wrap- 
ping myself  in  my  blanket,  lay  down  and  gazed  on  the  even- 
ing landscape.  The  mountains,  whose  stern  features  had 
lowered  upon  us  with  so  gloomy  and  awful  a  frown,  now 
seemed  lighted  up  with  a  serene,  benignant  smile,  and  thfe 
green  waving  undulations  of  the  plain  were  gladdened  with 
the  rich  sunshine.  Wet,  ill,  and  wearied  as  I  was,  my  spirit 
grew  lighter  at  the  view,  and  I  drew  from  it  an  augury  of 
good  for  my  future  prospects. 

When  morning  came,  Raymond  awoke,  coughing  violently, 
though  I  had  apparently  received  no  injury.  We  mounted, 
crossed  the  little  stream,  pushed  through  the  trees,  and  began 
our  journey  over  the  plain  beyond.  And  now,  as  we  rode 
slowly  along,  we  looked  anxiously  on  every  hand  for  traces 
of  the  Indians,  not  doubting  that  the  village  had  passed 
somewhere  in  that  vicinity  ;  but  the  scanty  shriveled  grass 
was  not  more  than  three  or  four  inches  high,  and  the  ground 
was  of  such  unyielding  hardness  that  a  host  might  have 
marched  over  it  and  left  scarcely  a  trace  of  its  passage.  Up 
hill  and  down  hill,  and  clambering  through  ravines,  we  con- 
tinued our  journey.  As  we  were  skirting  the  foot  of  a  hill 
I  saw  Raymond,  who  was  some  rods  in  advance,  suddenly 
jerking  the  reins  of  his  mule.  Sliding  from  his  seat,  and  run- 
ning in  a  crouching  posture  up  a  hollow,  he  disappeared;  and 
then  in  an  instant  I  heard  the  sharp  quick  crack  of  his  rifle. 
A  wounded  antelope  came  running  on  three  legs  over  the  hill. 
I  lashed  Pauline  and  made  after  him.  My  fleet  little  mare 
soon  brought  me  by  his  side,  and  after  leaping  and  bounding 
for  a  few  moments  in  vain,  he  stood  still,  as  if  despairing  of 
escape.  His  glistening  eyes  turned  up  toward  my  face  with 
so  piteous  a  look  that  it  was  with  feelings  of  infinite  com- 
punction that  I  shot  him  through  the  head  with  a  pistol. 
Raymond  skinned  and  cut  him  up,  and  we  hung  the  fore- 
quarters  to  our  saddles,  much  rejoiced  that  our  exhausted 
stock  of  provisions  was  renewed  in  such  good  time. 

Gaining  the  top  of  a  hill,  we  could  see  along  the  cloudy 
verge  of  the  prairie  before  us  lines  of  trees  and  shadowy 
groves  that  marked  the  course  of  Laramie  Creek.  Some  time 
before  noon  we  reached  its  banks  and  began  anxiously  to 
search  them  for  footprints  of  the  Indians.  We  followed  the 
stream  for  several  miles,  now  on  the  shore  and  now  wading 
in  the  water,  scrutinizing  every  sand-bar  and  every  muddy 
bank.     So  long  was  the  search  that  we  began  to  fear  that  we 


144  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

had  left  the  trail  undiscovered  behind  us.  At  length  I  heard 
Raymond  shouting,  and  saw  him  jump  from  his  mule  to 
examine  some  object  under  the  shelving  bank.  I  rode  up  to 
his  side.  It  was  the  clear  and  palpable  impression  of  an 
Indian  moccasin.  Encouraged  by  this  we  continued  our 
search  and  at  last  some  appearances  on  a  soft  surface  of  earth 
not  far  from  the  shore  attracted  my  eye  ;  and  going  to 
examine  them  I  found  half  a  dozen  tracks,  some  made  by 
men  and  some  by  children.  Just  then  Raymond  observed 
across  the  stream  the  mouth  of  a  small  branch  entering  it 
from  the  south.  He  forded  the  water,  rode  in  at  the  opening, 
and  in  a  moment  I  heard  him  shouting  again,  so  I  passed  over 
and  joined  him.  The  little  branch  had  a  broad  sandy  bed, 
along  which  the  water  trickled  in  a  scanty  stream  ;  and  on 
either  bank  the  bushes  were  so  close  that,  the  view  was  com- 
pletely intercepted.  I  found  Raymond  stooping  over  the 
footprints  of  three  or  four  horses.  Proceeding  we  found 
those  of  a  man,  then  those  of  a  child,  then  those  of  more 
horses  ;  and  at  last  the  bushes  on  each  bank  were  beaten  down 
and  broken,  and  the  sand  plowed  up  with  a  multitude  of 
footsteps,  and  scored  across  with  the  furrows  made  by  the 
lodge-poles  that  had  been  dragged  through.  It  was  now  cer- 
tain that  we  had  found  the  trail.  I  pushed  through  the 
bushes,  and  at  a  little  distance  on  the  prairie  beyond  found 
the  ashes  of  a  hundred  and  fifty  lodge  fires,  with  bones  and 
pieces  of  buffalo  robes  scattered  around  them,  and  in  some 
instances  the  pickets  to  which  horses  had  been  secured  still 
standing  in  the  ground.  Elated  by  our  success  we  selected  a 
convenient  tree,  and  turning  the  animals  loose,  prepared  to 
make  a  meal  from  the  fat  haunch  of  our  victim. 

Hardship  and  exposure  had  thriven  with  me  wonderfully. 
I  had  gained  both  health  and  strength  since  leaving  La 
Bonte's  camp.  Raymond  and  I  made  a  hearty  meal  together 
in  high  spirits,  for  we  rashly  presumed  that  having  found  one 
end  of  the  trail  we  should  have  little  difficulty  in  reaching  the 
other.  But  when  the  animals  were  led  in  we  found  that  our 
old  ill  luck  had  not  ceased  to  follow  us  close.  As  I  was  sad- 
dling Pauline  I  saw  that  her  eye  was  as  dull  as  lead,  and  the 
hue  of  her  yellow  coat  visibly  darkened.  I  placed  my  foot  in 
the  stirrup  to  mount,  when  instantly  she  staggered  and  fell 
flat  on  her  side.  Gaining  her  feet  with  an  effort  she  stood  by 
the  fire  wdth  a  drooping  head.  Whether  she  had  been  bitten 
by  a  snake  or  poisoned  by  some  noxious  plant  or  attacked  by 
a  sudden  disorder,  it  was  hard  to  say ;  but  at  all  events  her 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OTtEOON  TBAIl.  145 

sickness  was  sufficiently  ill-timed  and  unfortunate.  I  suc- 
ceeded in  a  second  attempt  to  mount  her,  and  with  a  slow 
pace  we  moved  forward  on  tlie  trail  of  the  Indians.  It  led  us 
up  a  hill  and  over  a  dreary  plain  ;  and  here,  to  our  great 
mortification,  the  traces  almost  disappeared,  for  the  ground 
was  hard  as  adamant ;  and  if  its  flinty  surface  had  ever  retained 
tlie  dint  of  a  hoof,  the  marks  had  been  washed  away  by  the 
deluge  of  yesterday.  An  Indian  village,  in  its  disorderly 
march,  is  scattered  over  the  prairie,  of  ten  to  the  width  of  full 
lialf  a  mile  ;  so  that  its  trail  is  nowhere  clearly  marked,  and 
the  task  of  following  it  is  made  doubly  wearisome  and  difficult. 
By  good  fortune  plenty  of  large  ant-hills,  a  yard  or  more  in 
diameter,  were  scattered  over  the  plain,  and  these  were  fre- 
quently broken  by  the  footprints  of  men  and  horses,  and 
marked  by  traces  of  the  lodge-poles.  The  succulent  leaves  of 
the  prickly-pear,  also  bruised  from  the  same  causes,  helped  a 
little  to  guide  us  ;  so  inch  by  inch  we  moved  along.  Often  we 
lost  the  trail  altogether,  and  then  would  recover  it  again,  but 
late  in  the  afternoon  we  found  ourselves  totally  at  fault.  We 
stood  alone  without  a  clew  to  guide  us.  The  broken  plain 
expanded  for  league  after  league  around  us,  and  in  front  the 
long  dark  ridge  of  mountains  was  stretching  from  north  to 
south.  Mount  Laramie,  a  little  on  our  right,  towered  high 
above  the  rest,  and  from  a  dark  valley  just  beyond  one  of  its 
lower  declivities,  we  discerned  volumes  of  white  smoke  slowly 
rolling  up  into  the  clear  air. 

"I  think,"  said  Raymond,  "some  Indians  must  be  there. 
Perhaps  we  had  better  go."  But  this  plan  was  not  rashly  to 
be  adopted,  and  we  determined  still  to  continue  our  search 
after  the  lost  trail.  Our  good  stars  prompted  us  to  this 
decision,  for  we  afterward  had  reason  to  believe,  from  infor- 
mation given  us  by  the  Indians,  that  the  smoke  was  raised  as  a 
decoy  by  a  Crow  war  party. 

Evening  was  coming  on,  and  there  was  no  wood  or  water 
nearer  than  the  foot  of  the  mountains.  So  thither  we  turned, 
directing  our  course  toward  the  point  where  Laramie  Creek 
issues  forth  upon  the  prairie.  When  we  reached  it  the  bare 
tops  of  the  mountains  were  still  brightened  with  sunshine. 
The  little  river  was  breaking  with  a  vehement  and  angry  cur- 
rent from  its  dark  prison.  There  was  something  in  the  near 
vicinity  of  the  mountains,  in  the  loud  surging  of  the  rapids, 
wonderfully  cheering  and  exhilarating  ;  for  although  once  as 
familiar  as  home  itself,  they  had  been  for  months  strangers  to 
my  experience.     There  was  a  rich  grass-plot  by  the  river's 


146  THE  CALIFOllNIA  AND  OltEGON  TRAIL. 

bank,  surrounded  by  low  ridges,  wliicli  would  effectually  sci'een 
ourselves  and  our  tire  from  the  sight  of  wandering  Indians. 
Here  among  the  grass  I  observed  numerous  circles  of  large 
stones,  whicl),  as  Raymond  said,  were  traces  of  a  Dakota 
winter  encampment.  We  lay  down  and  did  not  awake  till  the 
suii  was  up.  A  large  rock  projected  from  the  shore,  and  behind 
it  the  deep  water  was  slowly  eddying  round  and  round.  The 
temptation  was  irresistible.  I  threw  off  my  clothes,  leaped  in, 
suffered  myself  to  be  borne  once  round  with  the  current,  and 
then,  seizing  the  strong  root  of  a  water-plant,  drew  myself  to 
the  shore.  The  effect  was  so  invigorating  and  refreshing  that 
I  mistook  it  for  returning  health.  "Pauline,"  thought  I,  as  I 
led  the  little  mare  up  to  be  saddled,  "only  thrive  as  I  do,  and 
you  and  I  will  have  sport  yet  among  the  buffalo  beyond  these 
mountains."  But  scarcely  were  we  mounted  and  on  our  way 
before  the  momentary  glow  passed.  Again  I  hung  as  usual  in 
my  seat,  scarcely  able  to  hold  myself  erect. 

"  Look  yonder,"  said  Raymond  ;  "  you  see  that  big  hollow 
there  ;  the  Indians  must  have  gone  that  way,  if  they  went 
anywhere  about  here." 

We  reached  the  gap,  which  was  like  a  deep  notch  cut  into 
the  mountain  ridge,  and  here  we  soon  discerned  an  ant-hill 
furrowed  with  the  mark  of  a  lodge-pole.  This  was  quite 
enough  ;  there  could  be  no  doubt  now.  As  Ave  rode  on,  the 
opening  growing  narrower,  the  Indians  had  been  comi^elled 
to  march  in  closer  order,  and  the  traces  became  numerous  and 
distinct.  The  gap  terminated  in  a  rocky  gateway,  leading 
into  a  rough  passage  upward,  between  two  precipitous  moun- 
tains. Here  grass  and  weeds  were  bruised  to  fragments  by 
the  throng  that  had  passed  through.  We  moved  slowty  over 
the  rocks,  up  the  passage  ;  and  in  this  toilsome  manner  we 
advanced  for  an  hour  or  two,  bare  precipices,  hundreds  of  feet 
high,  shooting  up  on  either  hand.  Raymond,  with  his  hardy 
mule,  was  a  few  rods  before  me,  when  we  came  to  the  foot  of 
an  ascent  steeper  than  the  rest,  and  which  I  trusted  might 
prove  the  highest  point  of  the  defile.  Pauline  strained  up- 
ward for  a  few  yards,  moaning  and  stumbling,  and  then  came 
to  a  dead  stop,  unable  to  proceed  further.  I  dismounted,  and 
attempted  to  lead  her  ;  but  my  own  exhausted  strength  soon 
gave  out  ;  so  I  loosened  the  trail-rope  from  her  neck,  and 
tying  it  round  my  arm,  crawled  up  on  my  hands  and  knees. 
I  gained  the  top,  totally  exhausted,  the  sweat  drops  trickling 
from  my  forehead.  Pauline  stood  like  a  statue  by  my  side, 
her  shadow  falling  upon  the  scorching  rock;  and  in  this  shade, 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  147 

for  there  was  no  other,  I  lay  for  some  time,  scarcely  able  to 
move  a  limb.  All  around  the  black  crags,  sharp  as  needles 
at  the  top,  stood  glowing  in  the  sun,  without  a  tree,  or  a  bush, 
or  a  blade  of  grass,  to  cover  their  precipitous  sides.  The 
whole  scene  seemed  parched  with  a  pitiless,  insufferable  heat. 

After  a  while  I  could  mount  again,  and  we  moved  on, 
descending  the  rocky  defile  on  its  western  side.  Thinking  6f 
that  morning's  journey,  it  has  sometimes  seemed  to  me  tiiat 
there  was  something  ridiculous  in  my  position  ;  a  man,  armed 
to  the  teeth,  but  wholly  unable  to  fight,  and  equally  so  to  run 
away,  traversing  a  dangerous  wilderness,  on  a  sick  horse. 
But  these  thoughts  were  retrospective,  for  at  the  time  I  was 
in  too  grave  a  mood  to  entertain  a  very  lively  sense  of  the 
ludicrous. 

Raymond's  saddle-girth  slipped  ;  and  while  I  proceeded  he 
was  stopping  behind  to  repair  the  mischief.  I  came  to  the  top 
of  a  little  declivity,  where  a  most  welcome  sight  greeted  my 
eye  ;  a  nook  of  fresh  green  grass  nestled  among  the  cliffs, 
sunny  clumps  of  bushes  on  one  side,  and  shaggy  old  pine  trees 
leaning  forward  from  the  rocks  on  the  other.  A  shrill, 
familiar  voice  saluted  me,  and  recalled  me  to  days  of  boyhood  ; 
that  of  the  insect  called  the  "  locust  "  by  New  England  school- 
boys, which  was  fast  clinging  among  the  heated  boughs  of 
tlie  old  pine  trees.  Then,  too,  as  I  passed  the  bushes,  the  low 
sound  of  falling  water  reached  my  ear.  Pauline  turned  of  her 
own  accord,  and  pushing  through  the  boughs  we  found  a 
black  rock,  overarched  b}^  the  cool  green  canopy.  An  icy 
stream  was  pouring  from  its  side  into  a  wide  basin  of  white 
sand,  from  whence  it  had  no  visible  outlet,  but  filtered  through 
into  the  soil  below.  While  I  filled  a  tin  cup  at  the  sj)ring, 
Pauline  was  eagerly  plunging  her  head  deep  in  the  pool. 
Other  visitors  had  been  there  before  us.  All  around  in  the 
soft  soil  were  the  footprints  of  elk,  deer,  and  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tain sheep  ;  and  the  grizzly-bear  too  had  left  the  recent  prints 
of  his  broad  foot,  with  its  frightful  array  of  claws.  Among 
these  mountains  was  his  home. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  spring  we  found  a  little  grassy  plain, 
encircled  by  the  mountains,  and  marked,  to  our  great  joy,  with 
all  the  traces  of  an  Indian  camp.  Raymond's  practiced  eye 
detected  certain  signs  by  which  he  recognized  the  spot  where 
Reynal's  lodge  had  been  pitched  and  his  horses  picketed.  I 
approached,  and  stood  looking  at  the  place.  Reynal  and  1  had, 
I  believe,  hardly  a  feeling  in  common.  I  disliked  the  fellow, 
and  it  perplexed  me  a  good  deal  to  understand  why  I  should 


148  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

look  with  so  much  interest  on  the  ashes  of  his  fire,  when 
between  him  and  me  there  seemed  no  other  bond  of  sympathy 
tlian  the  slender  and  precarious  one  of  a  kindred  race. 

In  half  an  hour  from  this  we  were  clear  of  the  mountains. 
There  was  a  plain  before  us,  totally  barren  and  thickly  peopled 
in  many  parts  with  the  little  prairie  dogs,  who  sat  at  the 
mouths  of  their  burrows  and  yelped  at  us  as  we  passed.  The 
plain,  as  we  thought,  was  about  six  miles  wide  ;  but  it  cost  us 
two  hours  to  cross  it.  Then  another  mountain  range  rose 
before  us,  grander  and  more  wild  tlian  the  last  had  been.  Far 
out  of  the  dense  shrubbery  that  clothed  the  steeps  for  a  thou- 
sand feet  shot  up  black  crags,  all  leaning  one  way,  and  shat- 
tered by  storms  and  thunder  into  grim  and  threatening  shapes. 
As  we  entered  a  narrow  passage  on  the  trail  of  the  Indians, 
they  impended  frightfully  on  one  side,  above  our  heads. 

Our  course  was  through  dense  woods,  in  the  shade  and 
twinkling  sunlight  of  overhanging  boughs.  I  would  I  could 
recall  to  mind  all  the  startling  combinations  that  presented 
themselves,  as  winding  from  side  to  side  of  the  passage,  to 
avoid  its  obstructions,  we  could  see,  glancing  at  intervals 
through  the  foliage,  the  awful  forms  of  the  gigantic  cliffs, 
that  seemed  at  times  to  hem  us  in  on  the  right  and  on  the  left, 
before  us  and  behind  !  Another  scene  in  a  few  moments 
greeted  us  ;  a  tract  of  gray  and  sunny  woods,  broken  into 
knolls  and  hollows,  enlivened  by  birds  and  interspersed  with 
flowers.  Among  the  rest  I  recognized  the  mellow  whistle  of 
the  robin,  an  old  familiar  friend  whom  I  had  scarce  expected 
to  meet  in  such  a  place.  Humble-bees  too  were  buzzing 
heavily  about  the  flowers  ;  and  of  these  a  species  of  larkspur 
caught  my  eye,  more  appropriate,  it  should  seem,  to  cultivated 
gardens  than  to  a  remote  wilderness.  Instantly  it  recalled  a 
multitude  of  dormant  and  delightful  recollections. 

Leaving  behind  us  this  spot  and  its  associations,  a  sight 
soon  presented  itself,  characteristic  of  that  warlike  region.  In 
an  open  space,  fenced  in  by  high  rocks,  stood  two  Indian  forts, 
of  a  square  form,  rudely  built  of  sticks  and  logs.  They  were 
somewhat  ruinous,  having  probably  been  constructed  the  year 
before.  Each  might  have  contained  about  twenty  men. 
Perhaps  in  this  gloomy  spot  some  party  had  been  beset  by 
their  enemies,  and  those  scowling  rocks  and  blasted  trees 
might  not  long  since  have  looked  down  on  a  conflict  un- 
chronicled  and  unknown.  Yet  if  any  traces  of  bloodshed 
remained  they  were  completely  hidden  by  the  bushes  and  tall 
rank  weeds. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  149 

Gradually  the  mountains  drew  apart,  and  the  passage  ex- 
panded into  a  plain,  where  again  we  found  traces  of  an  Indian 
encampment.  There  were  trees  and  bushes  just  before  us, 
and  we  stopped  here  for  an  hour's  rest  and  refreshment. 
When  we  had  finished  our  meal  Raymond  struck  fire,  and 
lighting  his  pipe,  sat  down  at  the  foot  of  a  tree  to  smoke. 
For  some  time  I  observed  bim  puffing  away  with  a  face  of 
unusual  solemnity.  Then  slowly  taking  the  pipe  from  his  lips, 
he  looked  up  and  remarked  that  we  had  better  not  go  any 
farther. 

"Why  not?  "asked  I. 

He  said  that  the  country  was  become  very  dangerous,  that 
we  were  entering  the  range  of  the  Snakes,  Arapahoes,  and 
Gros-ventre  Blackfeet,  and  that  if  any  of  their  wandering  par- 
ties should  meet  us,  it  would  cost  us  our  lives  ;  but  he  added, 
with  a  blunt  fidelity  that  nearly  reconciled  me  to  his  stupidity, 
that  he  would  go  anywhere  I  wished.  I  told  him  to  bring  up 
the  animals,  and  mounting  them  we  proceeded  again.  I  con- 
fess that,  as  we  moved  forward,  the  prospect  seemed  but  a 
dreary  and  doubtful  one.  I  would  have  given  the  world  for 
my  ordinary  elasticity  of  body  and  mind,  and  for  a  horse  of 
such  strength  and  spirit  as  the  journey  required. 

Closer  and  closer  the  rocks  gathered  round  us,  growing 
taller  and  steeper,  and  pressing  more  and  more  upon  our  path. 
We  entered  at  length  a  defile  which  I  never  have  seen  rivaled. 
The  mountain  was  cracked  from  top  to  bottom,  and  we  were 
creeping  along  the  bottom  of  the  fissure,  in  dampness  and 
gloom,  with  the  clink  of  hoofs  on  the  loose  shingly  rocks,  and 
the  hoarse  murmuring  of  a  petulant  brook  which  kept  us  com- 
pany. Sometimes  the  water,  foaming  among  the  stones,  over- 
spread the  whole  narrow  passage  ;  sometimes,  withdrawing  to 
one  side,  it  gave  us  room  to  pass  dry-shod.  Looking  up,  we 
could  see  a  narrow  ribbon  of  bright  blue  sky  between  the  dark 
edges  of  the  opposing  cliffs.  This  did  not  last  long.  The 
passage  soon  widened,  and  sunbeams  found  their  way  down, 
flashing  upon  the  black  waters.  The  defile  would  spread  out 
to  many  rods  in  width  ;  bushes,  trees,  and  flowers  would  spring 
by  the  side  of  the  brook  ;  the  cliffs  would  be  feathered  with 
shrubbery,  that  clung  in  every  crevice,  and  fringed  with  trees, 
that  grew  along  their  sunny  edges.  Then  we  would  be  mov- 
ing again  in  the  darkness.  The  passage  seemed  about  four 
miles  long,  and  before  we  reached  the  end  of  it,  the  unshod 
hoofs  of  our  animals  were  lamentably  broken,  and  their  legs 
cut  by   the    sharp   stones.     Issuing  from   the  mountain  we 


150  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

found  another  plain.  All  around  it  stood  a  circle  of  lofty 
precipices,  that  seemed  the  impersonation  of  silence  and  soli- 
tude. Here  again  the  Indians  had  encamped,  as  well  they 
might,  after  passing  with  tlieir  women,  children,  and  horses, 
through  the  gulf  behind  us.  In  one  day  we  had  made  a 
journey  wliich  had  cost  them  three  to  accomplish. 

The  only  outlet  to  this  amphitheater  lay  over  a  hill  some 
two  hundred  feet  high,  up  which  we  moved  with  difficulty. 
Looking  from  the  top,  we  saw  that  at  last  we  were  free  of  the 
mountains.  The  prairie  spread  before  us,  but  so  wild  and 
broken  that  the  view  was  everywhere  obstructed.  Far  on  our 
left  one  tall  hill  swelled  up  against  the  sk}^,  on  the  smooth,  pale 
green  surface  of  which  four  slowly  moving  black  specks  were 
discernible.  They  were  evidently  buffalo,  and  we  hailed  the 
sight  as  a  good  augury  ;  for  where  the  buffalo  were,  there  too 
the  Indians  would  probably  be  found.  We  hoped  on  that  very 
night  to  reach  the  village.  We  were  anxious  to  do  so  for  a 
double  reason,  wishing  to  bring  our  wearisome  journey  to  an 
end,  and  knowing,  moreover,  that  though  to  enter  the  village 
in  broad  daylight  would  be  a  perfectly  safe  experiment,  yet  to 
encamp  in  its  vicinity  would  be  dangerous.  But  as  we  rode 
on,  the  sun  was  sinking,  and  soon  was  within  half  an  hour  of 
the  horizon.  We  ascended  a  hill  and  looked  round  us  for  a 
spot  for  our  encampment.  The  prairie  was  like  a  turbulent 
ocean,  suddenly  congealed  when  its  waves  were  at  the  high- 
est, and  it  lay  half  in  light  and  half  in  shadow,  as  the  rich 
sunshine,  yellow  as  gold,  was  pouring  over  it.  The  rough 
bushes  of  the  wild  sage  were  growing  everywhere,  its  dull 
pale  green  overspreading  hill  and  hollow.  Yet  a  little  way 
before  us,  a  bright  verdant  line  of  grass  was  winding  along 
the  plain,  and  here  and  there  throughout  its  course  water  was 
glistening  darkly.  We  went  down  to  it,  kindled  a  fire,  and 
turned  our  horses  loose  to  feed.  It  was  a  little  trickling 
brook,  that  for  some  yards  on  either  bank  turned  the  barren 
prairie  into  fertility,  and  here  and  there  it  spread  into  deep 
pools,  where  the  beaver  had  dammed  it  up. 

We  placed -our  last  remaining  piece  of  the  antelope  before 
a  scanty  fire,  mournfully  reflecting  on  our  exhausted  stock  of 
provisions.  Just  then  an  enormous  gray  hare,  peculiar  to  these 
prairies,  came  jumping  along,  and  seated  himself  within  fifty 
yards  to  look  at  us.  I  thoughtlessly  raised  my  rifle  to  shoot 
him,  but  Raymond  called  out  to  me  not  to  fire  for  fear  the  re- 
port should  reach  the  ears  of  the  Indians.  That  night  for  the 
first  time  we  considered  that  the  danger  to  which  we  were 


THE  CALIFORNIA   AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  151 

exposed  was  of  a  soraewliat  serious  character  ;  and  to  tliose 
wlio  are  unacquainted  with  Indians,  it  may  seem  strange  that 
our  chief  apprehensions  arose  from  the  supposed  proximity  of 
the  people  whom  we  intended  to  visit.  Had  any  straggling 
party  of  these  faithful  friends  caught  sight  of  us  from  the  hill- 
top, they  would  probably  have  returned  in  the  night  to  plun- 
der us  of  our  horses  and  perhaps  of  our  scalps.  But  we  were 
on  the  prairie,  where  the  geiiiics  loci  is  at  war  with  all  nerv- 
ous apprehensions  ;  and  I  presume  that  neither  Raymond  nor 
I  thought  twice  of  the  matter  that  evening. 

While  he  was  looking  after  the  animals,  I  sat  by  the  fire 
engaged  in  the  novel  task  of  baking  bread.  The  utensils  were 
of  tiie  most  simple  and  primitive  kind,  consisting  of  two  sticks 
inclining  over  the  bed  of  coals,  one  end  thrfist  into  the  ground 
while  the  dough  was  twisted  in  a  spiral  form  round  the  other. 
Under  such  circumstances  all  the  epicurean  in  a  man's  nature 
is  apt  to  awaken  witliinhim.  I  revisited  in  fancy  the  far  dis- 
tant abodes  of  good  fare,  not  indeed  Frascati's,  or  the  Trois 
Freres  Provenyaux,  for  that  were  too  extreme  a  flight  ;  but  no 
other  than  the  homely  table  of  my  old  friend  and  host,  Tom 
Crawford,  of  the  White  Mountains.  By  a  singular  revulsion, 
Tom  himself,  whom  I  well  remember  to  have  looked  upon  as 
the  impersonation  of  all  that  is  wild  and  backvvoodsmanlike, 
now  appeared  before  me  as  the  ministering  angel  of  comfort 
and  good  living.  Being  fatigued  and  drowsy  I  began  to 
doze,  and  my  thoughts,  following  the  same  train  of  associa- 
tion, assumed  another  form.  Half-dreaming,  I  saw  myself 
surrounded  with  the  mountains  of  New  England,  alive  with 
water-falls,  their  black  crags  cinctured  with  milk-white  mists. 
For  this  reverie  I  paid  a  speedy  penalty  ;  for  the  bread  was 
black  on  one  side  and  soft  on  the  other. 

For  eight  hours  Raymond  and  I,  pillowed  on  our  saddles, 
lay  insensible  as  logs.  Pauline's  j^ellow  head  was  stretched 
over  me  when  I  awoke.  I  got  up  and  examined  her.  Her 
feet  indeed  were  bruised  and  swollen  by  the  accidents  of 
yesterday,  but  her  eye  was  brighter,  her  motions  livelier, 
and  her  mysterious  malady  had  visibly  abated.  We  moved 
on,  hoping  within  an  hour  to  come  in  sight  of  the  Indian 
village  ;  but  again  disappointment  a^vaited  us.  The  trail  dis- 
appeared, melting  away  upon  a  hard  and  stony  plain.  Ray- 
mond and  I  separating,  rode  from  side  to  side,  scrutinizing 
every  yard  of  ground,  until  at  leugtli  I  discerned  traces  of  the 
lodge-poles  passing  by  tlie  side  of  a  ridge  of  rocks.  We 
bejjan  aijain  to  follow  them. 


152  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

"  What  is  that  black  spot  out  there  on  the  prairie  ?  " 

"  It  looks  like  a  dead  buffalo,"  answered  Raymond. 

We  rode  out  to  it,  and  found  it  to  be  the  huge  carcass  of  a 
bull  killed  by  the  hunters  as  they  had  passed.  Tangled  hair 
and  scraps  of  hide  were  scattered  all  around,  for  the  wolves 
had  been  making  merry  over  it,  and  had  hollowed  out  the 
entire  carcass.  It  was  covered  with  myriads  of  large  black 
crickets,  and  from  its  appearance  must  certainly  have  lain 
there  for  four  or  five  days.  The  sight  was  a  most  dishearten- 
ing one,  and  I  observed  to  Raymond  that  the  Indians  might 
still  be  fifty  or  sixty  miles  before  us.  But  he  shook  his  head, 
and  replied  that  they  dared  not  go  so  far  for  fear  of  their 
enemies,  the  Snakes. 

Soon  after  this  we  lost  the  trail  again,  and  ascended  a 
neighboring  ridge,  totally  at  a  loss.  Before  us  lay  a  plain 
perfectly  flat,  spreading  on  the  right  and  left,  without  appar- 
ent limit,  and  bounded  in  front  by  a  long  broken  line  of  hills, 
ten  or  twelve  miles  distant.  All  was  open  and  exposed  to 
view,  yet  not  a  buffalo  nor  an  Indian  was  visible. 

"  Do  you  see  that  ?"  said  Raymond  ;  "  now  we  had  better 
turn  round." 

But  as  Raymond's  bourgeois  thought  otherwise,  we  de- 
scended the  hill  and  began  to  cross  the  plain.  We  had  come 
so  far  that  I  knew  perfectly  well  neither  Pauline's  limbs  nor 
my  own  could  carry  me  back  to  Fort  Laramie.  I  considered 
that  the  lines  of  expediency  and  inclination  tallied  exactly, 
and  that  the  most  prudent  course  was  to  keep  forward.  The 
ground  immediately  around  us  was  thickly  strewn  with  the 
skulls  and  bones  of  buffalo,  for  here  a  year  or  two  before  the 
Indians  had  made  a  "  surround  "  ;  yet  no  living  game  pre- 
sented itself.  At  length,  however,  an  antelope  sprang  up  and 
gazed  at  us.  We  fired  together,  and  by  a  singular  fatality 
we  both  missed,  although  the  animal  stood,  a  fair  mark,  within 
eight}^  yards.  This  ill  success  might  perhaps  be  charged  to 
our  owm  eagerness,  for  by  this  time  we  had  no  provision  left 
except  a  little  flour.  We  could  discern  several  small  lakes, 
or  rather  extensive  pools  of  water,  glistening  in  the  distance. 
As  we  approached  them,  wolves  and  antelope  bounded  away 
through  the  tall  grass  that  grew  in  their  vicinity,  and  flocks 
of  large  white  plover  flew  screaming  over  their  surface.  Hav- 
ing failed  of  the  antelope,  Raymond  tried  his  hand  at  the 
birds  with  the  same  ill  success.  The  water  also  disappointed 
us.  Its  muddy  margin  was  so  beaten  up  by  the  crowd  of 
buffalo  that  our  timorous  animals  were  afraid  to  approach. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL,  153 

So  we  turned  away  and  moved  toward  the  hills.  The  rank 
grass,  where  it  was  not  trampled  down  by  the  buffalo,  fairly 
swept  our  horses'  necks. 

Again  we  found  the  same  execrable  barren  prairie  offering 
no  clew  by  wliich  to  guide  our  way.  As  we  drew  near  the 
hills  an  opening  appeared,  through  which  the  Indians  must 
have  gone  if  they  had  passed  that  way  at  all.  Slowly  we 
began  to  ascend  it.  I  felt  the  most  dreary  forebodings  of 
ill  success,  when  on  looking  round  I  could  discover  neither 
dent  of  hoof,  nor  footprint,  nor  trace  of  lodge-pole,  though 
the  passage  was  encumbered  by  the  ghastl}^  skulls  of  buffalo. 
We  heard  thunder  muttering  ;  a  storm  was  coming  on. 

As  we  gained  the  top  of  the  gap,  the  prospect  beyond 
began  to  disclose  itself.  First,  we  saw  a  long  dark  line  of 
ragged  clouds  upon  the  horizon,  while  above  them  rose  the 
peak  of  the  Medicine-Bow,  the  vanguard  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  ;  then  little  by  little  the  plain  came  into  view,  a 
vast  green  uniformity,  forlorn  and  tenantless,  though  Laramie 
Creek  glistened  in  a  waving  line  over  its  surface,  without  a 
bush  or  a  tree  upon  its  banks.  As  yet,  the  round  projecting 
shoulder  of  a  hill  intercepted  a  part  of  the  view.  I  rode  in 
advance,  when  suddenl}^  I  could  distinguish  a  few  dark  spots 
on  the  prairie,  along  the  bank  of  the  stream. 

"  Buffalo  !  "  said  I.  Then  a  sudden  hope  flashed  upon  me, 
and  eagerly  and  anxiously  I  looked  again. 

"Horses  !  "  exclaimed  Raymond,  with  a  tremendous  oath, 
lashing  his  mule  forward  as  he  spoke.  More  and  more  of  the 
plain  disclosed  itself,  and  in  rapid  succession  more  and  more 
horses  appeared,  scattered  along  the  river  bank,  or  feeding  in 
bands  over  the  prairie.  Then,  suddenly,  standing  in  a  circle 
by  the  stream,  swarming  with  their  savage  inhabitants,  we 
saw  rising  before  us  the  tall  lodges  of  the  Ogallalla.  Never 
did  the  heart  of  wanderer  more  gladden  at  the  sight  of  home 
than  did  mine  at  the  sight  of  those  wild  habitations  ! 


154  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

THE    OGALLALLA    VILLAGE. 

They  waste  as — ay — like  April  snow, 

In  the  warm  noon,  we  shrink  away  ; 
And  fast  they  follow,  as  we  go 
Toward  the  setting  day. 

Bryant. 

Such  a  narrative  as  this  is  hardly  the  place  for  portraying 
the  mental  features  of  the  Indians.  The  same  picture, 
slightly  clianged  in  shade  ^nd  coloring,  would  serve  with  very 
few  exceptions  for  all  the  tribes  that  lie  north  of  the  Mexican 
territories.  But  with  this  striking  similarity  in  their  modes 
of  thought,  the  tribes  of  the  lake  and  ocean  shores,  of  the 
forests  and  of  the  plains,  differ  greatly  in  their  manner  of  life. 
Having  been  domesticated  for  several  weeks  among  one, of  the 
wildest  of  the  wild  hordes  that  roam  over  the  remote  prairies, 
I  had  extraordinary  opportunities  of  observing  them,  and  I 
flatter  myself  that  a  faithful  picture  of  the  scenes  that  passed 
daily  before  my  eyes  may  not  be  devoid  of  interest  and  value. 
These  men  were  tliorough  savages.  Neither  their  manners 
nor  their  ideas  were  in  the  slightest  degree  modified  by  con- 
tact with  civilization.  They  knew  notliing  of  the  power  and 
real  character  of  tlie  white  men,  and  their  children  would 
scream  in  terror  at  the  sight  of  me.  Their  religion,  their 
superstitions,  and  their  prejudices  were  the  same  that  had 
been  handed  down  to  them  from  immemorial  time.  They 
fought  with  the  same  weapons  that  their  fathers  fought  with, 
and  wore  the  same  rude  garments  of  skins. 

Great  changes  are  at  hand  in  that  region.  With  the  stream 
of  emigration  to  Oregon  and  California,  the  bufi^alo  will 
dwindle  away,  and  the  large  Avandering  communities  who 
depend  on  them  for  support  must  be  broken  and  scattered. 
The  Indians  will  soon  be  corrupted  by  the  example  of  the 
whites,  abased  by  whisky,  and  overawed  by  military  posts; 
so  that  within  a  few  years  the  traveler  may  pass  in  tolerable 
security  through  their  country.  Its  danger  and  its  charm 
will  have  disappeared  together. 

As  soon  as  Raymond  and  I  discovered  the  village  from  the 
gap  in  the  hills,  we  were  seen  in  our  turn  ;  keen  eyes  w^ere 
constantly  on  the  watch.  As  we  rode  down  upon  the  plain 
the  side  of  tlie  village  nearest  us  was  darkened  with  a  crowd 
of  naked  figures  gathering  around  the  lodges.     Several  men 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AM)   OREGON  TRAIL.  i oo 

came  forward  to  meet  us.  1  could  distinguish  among  them 
the  green  blanket  of  the  Frencliman  Reynal.  When  we  came 
up  the  ceremony  of  sliaking  hands  had  to  be  gone  through 
witli  in  due  form,  and  then  all  were  eager  to  know  what  had 
become  of  the  rest  of  my  party.  I  satisfied  them  on  this 
point,  and  we  all  moved  forward  together  toward  the  village. 

"  You've  missed  it,"  said  Reynal  ;  "  if  you'd  been  here  day 
before  yesterday,  you'd  have  found  the  whole  prairie  over 
yonder  black  with  buffalo  as  far  as  you  could  see.  There 
were  no  cows,  though  ;  nothing  but  bulls.  We  made  a  *  sur- 
round '  every  day  till  yesterday.  See  the  village  there  ;  don't 
that  look  like  good  living  ?  " 

In  fact  I  could  see,  even  at  that  distance,  that  long  cords 
were  stretched  from  lodge  to  lodge,  over  which  the  meat,  cut 
by  the  squaws  into  thin  sheets,  was  hanging  to  dry  in  the  sun. 
I  noticed  too  that  the  village  was  somewhat  smaller  than  when 
I  had  last  seen  it,  and  I  asked  Reynal  the  cause.  He  said 
that  old  Le  Borgne  had  felt  too  Aveak  to  pass  over  the  moun- 
tains, and  so  had  remained  behind  with  all  his  relations, 
including  Mahto-Tatonka  and  his  brothers.  The  Whirlwind 
too  had  been  nnwilling  to  come  so  far,  because,  as  Reynal 
said,  he  was  afraid.  Only  half  a  dozen  lodges  had  adhered 
to  hira,  the  main  body  of  the  village  setting  their  chief's 
authority  at  naught,  and  taking  the  course  most  agreeable  to 
their  inclinations. 

"  What  chiefs  are  there  in  the  village  now  ?"  said  I. 

"Well,"  said  Reynal,  "there's  old  Red-Water,  and  the 
Eagle-Feather,  and  the  Big  Crow,  and  the  Mad  Wolf  and  the 
Panther,  and  the  White-Shield,  and — what's  his  name? — 
the  half-breed  Cheyenne." 

By  this  time  we  were  close  to  the  village,  and  I  observed 
that  while  the  greater  part  of  the  lodges  were  very  large  and 
neat  in  their  appearance,  there  was  at  one  side  a  cluster  of 
squalid,  miserable  huts.  I  looked  toward  them,  and  made 
some  remark  about  their  wretched  appearance.  But  I  was 
touching  upon  delicate  ground. 

"  My  squaw's  relations  live  in  those  lodges,"  said  Reynal 
very  warmly,  "and  there  isn't  a  better  set  in  the  whole  vil- 
lage." 

"Are  there  any  chiefs  among  them  ?"  asked  I. 

"  Chiefs  ?"  said  Reynal  ;  "yes,  plenty  !" 

"What  are  their  names?"  I  inquired. 

"Their  names?  Why,  there's  the  Arrow-Head.  If  he 
isn't  a  chief  he  ought  to  be  one.     And  there's  the  Hail-Storm. 


156  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

He's  nothing  but  a  boy,  to  be  sure  ;  but  he's  bound  to  be  a 
chief  one  of  these  days  !  " 

Just  then  we  passed  between  two  of  the  lodges,  and  entered 
the  great  area  of  the  village.  Superb  naked  figures  stood 
silently  gazing  on  us. 

"  Where's  tlie  Bad  Wound's  lodge  ?"  said  I  to  Reynal. 

"  There,  you've  missed  it  again  !  The  Bad  Wound  is  away 
with  the  Whirlwind.  If  you  could  have  found  him  here,  and 
gone  to  live  in  his  lodge,  he  would  have  treated  you  better 
than  an}^  man  in  the  village.  But  there's  the  Big  Crow's  lodge 
yonder,  next  to  old  Red- Water's.  He's  a  good  Indian  for  the 
whites,  and  I  advise  you  to  go  and  live  with  him." 

"Are  there  many  squaws  and  children  in  his  lodge?" 
said  I. 

"No;  only  one  squaw  and  two  or  three  children.  He 
keeps  the  rest  in  a  separate  lodge  by  themselves." 

So,  still  followed  by  a  crowd  of  Indians,  Raj^mond  and  I 
rode  up  to  the  entrance  of  the  Big  Crow's  lodge.  A  squaw 
came  out  immediately  and  took  our  horses.  I  put  aside  the 
leather  flap  that  covered  the  low  opening,  and  stooping, 
entered  the  Big  Crow's  dwelling.  There  I  could  see  the  chief 
in  the  dim  light,  seated  at  one  side,  on  a  pile  of  buffalo  robes. 
He  greeted  me  wdth  a  guttural  "  How,  cola  !  "  I  requested 
Reynal  to  tell  him  that  Raymond  and  I  were  come  to  live 
with  him.  The  Big  Crow  gave  another  low  exclamation.  If 
the  reader  thinks  that  we  were  intruding  somewhat  cavalierly, 
I  beg  him  to  observe  that  every  Indian  in  the  village  would 
have  deemed  himself  honored  that  white  men  should  give 
such  preference  to  his  hospitality. 

The  squaw  spread  a  buffalo  robe  for  us  in  the  guest's  place 
at  the  head  of  the  lodge.  Our  saddles  were  brought  in,  and 
scarcely  were  we  seated  upon  them  before  the  place  was 
thronged  with  Indians,  who  came  crowding  in  to  see  us.  The 
Big  Crow  produced  his  pipe  and  filled  it  with  the  mixture  of 
tobacco  and  shongsasha,  or  red  willow  bark.  Round  and 
round  it  passed,  and  a  livel}^  conversation  w^ent  forward. 
Meanwhile  a  squaw  placed  before  the  two  guests  a  wooden 
bowl  of  boiled  buffalo  meat,  but  unhappily  this  was  not  the 
only  banquet  destined  to  be  inflicted  on  us.  Rapidly,  one 
after  another,  boys  and  young  squaws  thrust  their  heads  in  at 
the  opening,  to  invite  us  to  various  feasts  in  different  parts  of 
the  village.  For  half  an  hour  or  more  we  were  actively  en- 
gaged in  passing  from  lodge  to  lodge,  tasting  in  each  of  the 
bowl  of    meat   set  before  us,  and   inhaling  a  whiff  or  two 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  157 

from  our  entertainer's  pipe.  A  thunderstorm  that  had  been 
threatening  for  some  time  now  began  in  good  earnest.  We 
crossed  over  to  Reynal's  lodge,  thougli  it  hardly  deserved  this 
name,  for  it  consisted  only  of  a  few  old  buffalo  robes,  sup- 
ported on  poles,  and  was  quite  open  on  one  side.  Here  we 
sat  down,  and  the  Indians  gatbered  round  us. 

"  Wliat  is  it,"  said  I,  "  tJiat  makes  the  thunder  ?" 

**  It's  my  belief,"  said  Reynal,  "  that  it  is  a  big  stone  roll- 
ing over  the  sky." 

"Very  likely,"  I  replied  ;  "but  I  want  to  know  what  the 
Indians  think  about  it." 

So  he  interpreted  my  question,  which  seemed  to  produce 
some  doubt  and  debate.  There  was  evidently  a  difference  of 
opinion.  At  last  old  Mene-Seela,  or  Red-Water,  who  sat  by 
himself  at  one  side,  looked  up  with  his  withered  face,  and  said 
he  had  always  known  what  the  thunder  was.  It  was  a  great 
black  bird  ;  and  once  he  had  seen  it,  in  a  dream,  swooping 
down  from  the  Black  Hills,  with  its  loud  roaring  wings  ;  and 
when  it  flapped  them  over  a  lake,  they  struck  lightning  from 
the  water. 

"  The  thunder  is  bad,"  said  another  old  man,  who  sat  muffled 
in  his  buffalo  robe  :  "he  killed  my  brother  last  summer." 

Reynal,  at  my  request,  asked  for  an  explanation  ;  but  the 
old  man  remained  doggedly  silent,  and  would  not  look  up. 
Some  time  after  I  learned  how  the  accident  occurred.  The 
man  who  was  killed  belonged  to  an  association  which,  among 
other  mystic  functions,  claimed  the  exclusive  power  and  privi- 
lege of  fighting  tlie  thunder.  Whenever  a  storm  which  they 
wished  to  avert  was  threatening,  the  thunder-figliters  would 
take  their  bows  and  arrows,  their  guns,  their  magic  drum,  and 
a  sort  of  whistle,  made  out  of  the  wingbone  of  the  war  eagle. 
Thus  equipped,  they  would  run  out  and  fire  at  the  rising  cloud, 
whooping,  yelling,  whistling,  and  beating  their  drum,  to 
frighten  it  down  again.  One  afternoon  a  heavy  black  cloud 
was  coming  up,  and  they  repaired  to  the  top  of  a  hill,  where 
they  brought  all  their  magic  artillery  into  play  against  it. 
But  the  undaunted  thunder,  refusing  to  be  terrified,  kept 
moving  straight  onward,  and  darted  out  a  bright  flash  which 
struck  one  of  the  party  dead,  as  he  was  in  the  very  act  of 
shaking  his  long  iron-pointed  lance  against  it.  The  rest  scat- 
tered and  ran  yelling  in  an  ecstasy  of  superstitious  terror 
back  to  their  lodges. 

The  lodge  of  my  host  Kongra  Tonga,  or  the  Big  Crow, 
presented  a  picturesque  spectacle  that  evening.     A  score  or 


158  TBE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

more  of  Indians  were  seated  around  in  a  circle,  their  dark 
naked  forms  just  visible  by  the  dull  light  of  the  smoldering 
fire  in  the  center,  the  pipe  glowing  brightly  in  the  gloom  as 
it  passed  from  head  to  hand  round  the  lodge.  Then  a  squaw 
would  drop  a  piece  of  buffalo-fat  on  the  dull  embers.  Instantly 
a  bright  glancing  flame  would  leap  up,  darting  its  clear  light 
to  the  very  apex  of  the  tall  conical  structure,  where  the  tops 
of  the  slender  poles  that  supported  its  covering  of  leather  were 
gathered  together.  It  gilded  the  features  of  the  Indians,  as 
with  animated  gestures  they  sat  around  it,  telling  their  endless 
stories  of  war  and  hunting.  It  displayed  rude  garments  of 
skins  that  hung  around  the  lodge  ;  the  bow,  quiver,  and  lance 
suspended  over  the  resting  place  of  the  chief,  and  the  rifles  and 
powder-horns  of  the  two  white  guests.  For  a  moment  all 
would  be  bright  as  day  ;  then  the  flames  would  die  away,  and 
fitful  flashes  from  the  embers  would  illumine  the  lodge,  and 
then  leave  it  in  darkness.  Then  all  the  light  would  wholly 
fade,  and  the  lodge  aijd  all  within  it  be  involved  again  in 
obscurity. 

As  I  left  the  lodge  next  morning,  I  was  saluted  by  howling 
and  yelping  from  all  around  the  village,  and  half  its  canine 
population  rushed  forth  to  the  attack.  Being  as  cowardly  as 
they  were  clamorous,  they  kept  jumping  around  me  at  the  dis- 
tance of  a  few  yards,  only  one  little  cur,  about  ten  inches  long, 
having  spirit  enougli  to  make  a  direct  assault.  He  dashed 
valiantly  at  the  leather  tassel  which  in  the  Dakota  fashion 
was  trailing  behind  the  heel  of  my  moccasin,  and  kept  his 
hold,  growling  and  snarling  all  the  while,  though  every  step 
I  made  almost  jerked  him  over  on  his  back.  As  I  knew  that 
the  eyes  of  the  whole  village  were  on  the  watch  to  see  if  I 
showed  any  sign  of  apprehension,  I  walked  forward  without 
looking  to  the  right  or  left,  surrounded  wherever  I  went  by 
this  magic  circle  of  dogs.  When  I  came  to  Reynal's  lodge  I 
sat  down  by  it,  on  which  the  dogs  dispersed  growling  to  their 
respective  quarters.  Only  one  large  white  one  remained,  who 
kept  running  about  before  me  and  showing  his  teeth.  I  called 
him,  but  he  only  growled  the  more.  I  looked  at  him  well. 
He  was  fat  and  sleek  ;  just  such  a  dog  as  I  wanted.  "  My 
friend,"  thought  I,  "you  shall  pay  for  this  !  I  will  have  you 
eaten  this  very  morning  !  " 

I  intended  that  day  to  give  the  Indians  a  feast,  by  way  of 
conveying  a  favorable  impression  of  my  character  and  dignity ; 
and  a  white  dog  is  the  dish  which  the  customs  of  the  Dakota 
prescribe  for  all  occasions  of  formalitj^  and   importance.     I 


Tin:  (JAUFOHNIA   AJSI)  OREGON  TRAIL.  159 

consulted  Reynal ;  lie  soon  discovered  that  an  old  woman  in 
the  next  lodge  was  owner  of  the  white  dog.  I  took  a  gaudy 
cotton  handkerchief,  and  laying  it  on  the  ground,  arranged 
some  vermilion,  beads,  and  other  trinkets  upon  it.  Then  the 
old  squaw  was  summoned.  I  pointed  to  the  dog  and  to  the 
handkerchief.  She  gave  a  scream  of  delight,  snatched  up  the 
prize,  and  vanished  with  it  into  her  lodge.  For  a  few  more 
trifles  I  engaged  the  services  of  two  other  squaws,  eacli  of 
whom  took  the  white  dog  by  one  of  his  paws,  and  led  him 
away  behind  the  lodges,  while  he  kept  looking  up  at  them 
with  a  face  of  innocent  surprise.  Having  killed  him  they 
threw  him  into  a  lire  to  singe  ;  then  chopped  him  up  and  put 
him  into  two  large  kettles  to  boil.  Meanwhile  I  told  Ray- 
mond to  fry  in  buffalo-fat  what  little  flour  we  had  left,  and 
also  to  make  a  kettle  of  tea  as  an  additional  item  of  the 
repast. 

The  Big  Crow's  squaw  was  briskly  at  w'ork  sweeping  out 
the  lodge  for  the  approaching  festivity.  I  confided  to  my 
host  himself  the  task  of  inviting  the  guests,  thinking  that  I 
might  thereby  shift  from  my  own  shoulders  the  odium  of 
fancied  neglect  and  oversight. 

When  feasting  is  in  question,  one  hour  of  the  day  serves  an 
Indian  as  well  as  another.  My  entertainment  came  off  about 
eleven  o'clock.  At  that  hour,  Reynal  and  Raymond  walked 
across  the  area  of  the  village,  to  the  admiration  of  the  inhabit- 
ants, carrying  the  two  kettles  of  dog-meat  slung  on  a  pole  be- 
tween them.  These  they  placed  in  the  center  of  the  lodge, 
and  then  went  back  for  tlie  bread  and  the  tea.  Meanwhile  1 
had  put  on  a  pair  of  brilliant  moccasins,  and  substituted  for 
my  old  buckskin  frock  a  coat  which  I  had  brought  with  me 
in  view  of  such  public  occasions.  I  also  made  careful  use  of 
the  razor,  an  operation  which  no  man  will  neglect  who  desires 
to  gain  the  good  opinion  of  Indians.  Thus  attired,  I  seated 
myself  between  Re^^nal  and  Raymond  at  the  head  of  the 
lodge.  Only  a  few  minutes  elapsed  before  all  the  guests  had 
come  in  and  were  seated  on  the  ground,  wedged  together  in  a 
close  circle  around  the  lodge.  Each  brought  with  him  a 
wooden  bowl  to  hold  his  share  of  the  repast.  When  all  were 
assembled,  two  of  the  oflicials,  called  "  soldiers  "by  the  white 
men,  came  forward  with  ladles  made  of  the  horn  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  sheep,  and  began  to  distribute  the  feast,  always 
assigning  a  double  share  to  the  old  men  and  chiefs.  The  dog 
vanished  with  astonishing  celerity,  and  each  guest  turned  his 
dish  bottom  upward   to  sliow  that  all   was  gone.     Then  the 


160  THE  CALlFOllNIA  AND  OUEQON  TUAIL. 

bread  was  distributed  in  its  turn,  and  finally  the  tea.  As  the 
soldiers  poured  it  out  into  the  same  wooden  bowls  that  had 
served  for  the  substantial  part  of  the  meal,  I  thought  it  had  a 
particularly  curious  and  uninviting  color. 

"  Oh  ! "  said  Reynal,  "  there  was  not  tea  enough,  so  I 
stirred  some  soot  in  the  kettle,  to  make  it  look  strong." 

Fortunately  an  Indian's  palate  is  not  very  discriminating. 
The  tea  was  well  sweetened,  and  that  was  all  they  cared  for. 

Now  the  former  part  of  the  entertainment  being  concluded, 
the  time  for  speech-making  was  come.  The  Big  Crow  pro- 
duced a  flat  piece  of  wood  on  which  he  cut  up  tobacco  and 
shongsasha,  and  mixed  them  in  due  pi-oportions.  The  pipes 
were  filled  and  passed  from  hand  to  hand  around  the  company. 
Then  I  began  my  speech,  each  sentence  being  interpreted  by 
Reynal  as  I  went  on,  and  echoed  by  the  whole  audience  with 
the  usual  exclamations  of  assent  and  approval.  As  nearly  as 
I  can  recollect,  it  was  as  follows  : 

I  had  come,  I  told  them,  from  a  country  so  far  distant, 
that  at  the  rate  they  travel,  they  could  not  reach  it  in  a 
year. 

"  How  !  how  !  " 

"There  the  Meneaska  were  more  numerous  than  the  blades 
of  grass  on  the  prairie.  The  squaws  were  far  more  beautiful 
than  any  they  had  ever  seen,  and  all  the  men  were  brave 
warriors." 

"  How  !  how  !  how  !  " 

Here  I  was  assailed  by  sharp  twinges  of  conscience,  for 
I  fancied  I  could  perceive  a  fragrance  of  perfumery  in  the 
air,  and  a  vision  rose  before  me  of  white  kid  gloves  and  silken 
mustaches  with  the  mild  and  gentle  countenances  of  numerous 
fair-haired  young  men.  But  I  recovered  myself  and  began 
again. 

"  While  I  was  living  in  the  Meneaska  lodges,  I  had  heard 
of  the  Ogallalla,  how  great  and  brave  a  nation  they  were, 
how  they  loved  the  whites,  and  how  well  they  could  hunt  the 
buifalo  and  strike  their  enemies.  I  resolved  to  come  and  see 
if  all  that  I  heard  was  true." 

"  How  !  how  !  how  !  how  !  " 

"As  I  had  come  on  horseback  through  the  mountains,  I 
had  been  able  to  bring  them  only  a  very  few  presents." 

"  How  !  " 

"But  I  had  enough  tobacco  to  give  them  all  a  small  piece. 
They  might  smoke  it,  and  see  how  much  better  it  was  than 
the  tobacco  which  they  got  from  the  traders." 


TIIF:  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL.  101 

"  How  !  Iiow  !  how  !  " 

"  I  had  plenty  of  powder,  lead,  knives,  and  tobacco  at  Foit 
Laramie.  These  I  was  anxious  to  give  them,  and  if  any  of 
them  should  come  to  the  fort  before  I  went  away,  I  would 
make  them  handsome  ])resents." 

"  How  !    how  !  how  !  how  !  " 

Raymond  then  cut  up  and  distributed  among  them  two 
or  three  pounds  of  tobacco,  and  old  Mene-Seela  began  to 
make  a  reply.  It  was  quite  long,  but  the  following  was  the 
pith  of  it  : 

"  He  had  always  loved  the  whites.  They  were  the  wisest 
people  on  earth.  He  believed  they  could  do  everything,  and 
he  was  always  glad  when  any  of  them  came  to  live  in  the 
Ogallalla  lodges.  It  was  true  I  had  not  made  them  many 
presents,  but  the  reason  of  it  was  plain.  It  was  clear  that  I 
liked  them,  or  I  never  should  have  come  so  far  to  find  their 
village." 

Several  other  speeches  of  similar  import  followed,  and  then 
this  more  serious  matter  being  disposed  of,  there  was  an  inter- 
val of  smoking,  laughing,  and  conversation  ;  but  old  Mene- 
Seela  suddenly  interrupted  it  with  a  lond  voice  : 

*'  Now  is  a  good  time,"  he  said,  "  when  all  the  old  men  and 
chiefs  are  here  together,  to  decide  what  the  people  shall  do. 
We  came  over  the  mountain  to  make  our  lodges  for  next  year. 
Our  old  ones  are  good  for  nothing  ;  they  are  rotten  and  worn 
out.  But  we  have  been  disappointed.  We  have  killed  buffalo 
bulls  enough,  but  we  have  found  no  herds  of  cows,  and  the 
skins  of  bulls  are  too  thick  and  heavy  for  our  squaws  to  make 
lodges  of.  There  must  be  plenty  of  cows  about  the  Medicine- 
Bow  Mountain.  We  ought  to  go  there.  To  be  sure  it  is 
farther  westward  than  we  have  ever  been  before,  and  perhaps 
the  Snakes  will  attack  us,  for  those  hunting-grounds  belong 
to  them.  But  we  must  have  new  lodges  at  any  rate  ;  our  old 
ones  will  not  serve  for  another  year.  We  ought  not  to  be 
afraid  of  the  Snakes.  Our  warriors  are  brave,  and  they  are 
all  ready  for  war.  Besides,  we  have  three  white  men  with 
their  rifles  to  help  us." 

I  could  not  help  thinking  that  the  old  man  relied  a  little  too 
much  on  the  aid  of  allies,  one  of  whom  was  a  coward,  another 
a  blockhead,  and  the  third  an  invalid.  This  speech  produced 
a  good  deal  of  debate.  As  Reynal  did  not  interpret  what 
was  said,  I  could  only  judge  of  the  meaning  by  the  features 
and  gestures  of  the  speakers.  At  the  end  it,  however,  the 
greater  number  seemed  to  have  fallen  in  with  Mene-Seela's 


162  THE  CALtFOnmA  AND  OtllSGON  TUATL. 

opiiiiou.  A  short  silence  followed,  and  then  the  old  man 
struck  up  a  discordant  chant,  vvliich  I  was  told  was  a  song  of 
thanks  for  the  entertainment  I  had  given  them. 

"  Now,"  said  he, ''  let  us  go  and  give  the  white  men  a  chance 
to  breathe." 

So  the  compan}?^  all  dispersed  into  the  open  air,  and  for 
some  time  the  old  chief  was  walking  round  the  village,  sing- 
ing his  song  in  praise  of  the  feast,  after  the  usual  custom  of 
the  nation. 

At  last  the  day  drew  to  a  close,  and  as  the  sun  went  down 
the  horses  came  trooping  from  the  surrounding  plains  to  be 
l^icketed  before  the  dwellings  of  their  respective  masters. 
ISoon  within  the  great  circle  of  lodges  appeared  another  con- 
centric circle  of  restless  horses  ;  and  here  and  there  fires  were 
glowing  and  flickering  amid  the  gloom  on  the  dusky  figures 
around  them.  I  w^ent  over  and  sat  by  the  lodge  of  Reynal. 
The  Eagle-Feather,  who  was  a  son  of  Mene-Seela,  and  brother 
of  my  host  the  Big  Crow,  was  seated  there  already,  and  I 
asked  him  if  the  village  would  move  in  the  morning.  He 
shook  his  head,  and  said  that  nobody  could  tell,  for  since  old 
Mahto-Tatoiika  had  died,  the  people  had  been  like  children 
that  did  not  know  their  own  minds.  They  were  no  better 
than  a  body  without  a  head.  So  I,  as  well  as  the  Indians 
themselves,  fell  asleep  that  night  without  knowing  whether 
we  should  set  out  in  the  morning  toward  the  country  of  the 
Snakes. 

At  daybreak,  however,  as  I  was  coming  up  from  the  river 
after  my  morning's  ablutions,  I  saw  that  a  movement  was  con- 
templated. Some  of  the  lodges  were  reduced  to  nothing  but 
bare  skeletons  of  poles  ;  the  leather  covering  of  others  was 
flapping  in  the  wind  as  the  squaws  were  pulling  it  off.  One 
or  two  chiefs  of  note  had  resolved,  it  seemed,  on  moving  ;  and 
so  having  set  their  squaws  at  work,  the  example  was  tacitly 
followed  by  the  rest  of  the  village.  One  by  one  the  lodges 
were  sinking  down  in  rapid  succession,  and  where  the  great 
circle  of  the  village  had  been  only  a  moment  before,  nothing 
now  remained  but  a  ring  of  horses  and  Indians,  crowded  in 
confusion  together.  The  ruins  of  the  lodges  were  spread  over 
the  ground,  together  with  kettles,  stone  mallets,  great  ladles 
of  horn,  buifalo  robes,  and  cases  of  painted  hide,  filled  with 
dried  meat.  Squaws  bustled  about  in  their  busy  preparations, 
the  old  hags  screaming  to  one  another  at  the  stretch  of  their 
leathern  lungs.  The  shaggy  horses  were  patiently  standing 
while  the  lodge-poles  were  lashed  to  their  sides,  and  the  bag- 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  ICI 

gage  piled  upon  their  backs.  The  dogs,  with  tlieir  tongues 
lolling  out,  lay  lazily  panting,  and  waiting  for  tiie  time  of 
departure.  Each  waVrior  sat  on  tiie  ground  by  the  decaying 
embers  of  his  lire,  unmoved  amid  all  the  confusion,  while  he 
held  in  his  hand  the  long  trail-rope  of  his  horse. 

As  their  preparations  were  completed,  each  family  moved 
off  the  ground.  The  crowd  was  rapidly  melting  away.  I 
could  see  them  crossing  the  river,  and  passing  in  quick  suc- 
cession along  the  profile  of  the  hill  on  the  farther  bank.  When 
all  were  gone,  I  mounted  and  set  out  after  them,  followed  by 
Raymond,  and  as  we  gained  the  summit,  the  whole  village 
came  in  view  at  once,  straggling  away  for  a  mile  or  more  over 
the  barren  plains  before  us.  Everywhere  the  iron  points  of 
lances  were  glittering.  The  sun  never  shone  upon  a  more 
strange  array.  Here  were  the  heavy-laden  pack  horses,  some 
wretched  old  woman  leading  them,  and  two  or  three  children 
clinging  to  their  backs.  Here  were  mules  or  ponies  covered 
from  head  to  tail  with  gaudy  trappings,  and  mounted  hy  some 
gay  young  squaw,  grinning  bashfulness  and  pleasure  as  the 
Meneaska  looked  at  her.  Boys  with  miniature  bows  and 
arrows  were  wandering  over  the  plains,  little  naked  children 
were  running  along  on  foot,  and  numberless  dogs  were  scam- 
pering among  the  feet  of  the  horses.  The  young  braves,  gaudy 
with  paint  and  feathers,  were  riding  in  groups  among  the 
crowd,  and  often  galloping,  two  or  three  at  once  along  the  line, 
to  try  the  speed  of  their  horses.  Here  and  there  you  might 
see  a  rank  of  sturdy  pedestrians  stalking  along  in  tiieir  white 
buffalo  robes.  These  were  the  dignitaries  of  the  village,  the 
old  men  and  warriors,  to  whose  age  and  experience  that  wan- 
dering democracy  yielded  a  silent  deference.  With  the  rough 
prairie  and  the  broken  hills  for  its  background,  the  restless 
scene  was  striking  and  picturesque  beyond  description.  Days 
and  weeks  made  me  familiar  with  it,  but  never  impaired  its 
effect  upon  my  fancy. 

As  we  moved  on  the  broken  column  grew  yet  more  scat- 
tered and  disorderly,  until,  as  we  approached  the  foot  of  a  hill, 
I  saw  the  old  men  before  mentioned  seating  themselves  in  a 
lino  upon  the  ground,  in  advance  of  the  whole.  They  lighted 
a  pipe  and  sat  smoking,  laughing,  and  telling  stories,  while  the 
people,  stopping  as  they  successively  came  up,  were  soon 
gathered  in  a  crowd  behind  them.  Then  the  old  men  rose, 
drew  their  buffalo  robes  over  their  shoulders,  and  strode  on  as 
before.  Gaining  the  top  of  the  hill,  we  found  a  very  steep 
declivity  before  us.     There  was  not  a  minute's  pause.     The 


164  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

whole  descended  in  a  mass,  amid  dust  and  confusion.  The 
horses  braced  their  feet  as  they  slid  down,  women  and  children 
were  screaming,  dogs  yelping  as  t\\ej  were  trodden  upon, 
while  stones  and  earth  went  rolling  to  the  bottom.  In  a  few 
moments  I  could  see  the  village  from  the  summit,  spreading 
again  far  and  wide  over  the  plain  below. 

At  our  encampment  that  afternoon  I  was  attacked  anew  by 
m}^  old  disorder.  In  half  an  hour  the  strengtli  that  I  had  been 
gaining  for  a  week  past  had  vanished  again,  and  I  became  like 
a  man  in  a  dream.  But  at  sunset  I  lay  down  in  the  Big 
Crow's  lodge  and  slept,  totally  unconscious  till  the  morning. 
The  first  thing  that  awakened  me  was  a  hoarse  flapping  over 
my  head,  and  a  sudden  light  that  poured  in  upon  me.  The 
camp  was  breaking  up,  and  the  squaws  were  moving  the 
covering  from  the  lodge.  I  arose  and  shook  off  my  blanket 
with  the  feeling  of  perfect  health  ;  but  scarcely  had  I  gained 
my  feet  when  a  sense  of  my  helpless  condition  was  once  more 
forced  upon  me,  and  I  found  myself  scarcely  able  to  stand. 
Raymond  had  brought  up  Pauline  and  the  mule,  and  I  stooped 
to  raise  my  saddle  from  the  ground.  My  strength  was  quite 
inadequate  to  the  task.  "You  must  saddle  her,"  said  I  to 
Raymond,  as  I  sat  down  again  on  a  pile  of  buffalo  robes  : 

"Et  liaec  etiam  fortasse  meminlsse  juvabit," 

I  thought,  while  with  a  painful  effort  I  raised  myself  into 
the  saddle.  Half  an  hour  after,  even  the  expectation  that 
Vergil's  line  expressed  seemed  destined  to  disappointment. 
As  we  were  passing  over  a  great  plain,  surrounded  by  long 
broken  ridges,  I  rode  slowly  in  advance  of  the  Indians,  with 
thoughts  that  wandered  far  from  the  time  and  from  the 
place.  Suddenly  the  sky  darkened,  and  thunder  began  to 
mutter.  Clouds  were  rising  over  the  hills,  as  dreary  and  dull 
as  the  first  forebodings  of  an  approaching  calamity  ;  and  in  a 
moment  all  around  Avas  wrapped  in  shadow.  I  looked  behind. 
The  Indians  had  stopped  to  prepare  for  the  approaching 
storm,  and  the  dark,  dense  mass  of  savages  stretched  far  to 
the  right  and  left.  Since  the  first  attack  of  my  disorder  the 
effects  of  rain  upon  me  had  usually  been  injurious  in  the 
extreme.  I  had  no  strengtli  to  spare,  having  at  that  moment 
scarcely  enough  to  keep  my  seat  on  horseback.  Then,  for 
the  first  time,  it  pressed  upon  me  as  a  strong  probability  that 
I  might  never  leave  those  deserts.  "  Well,"  thought  I  to 
myself,  "  a  prairie  makes  quick  and  sharp  work.  Better  to 
die  here,  in  the  saddle  to  the  last,  than  to  stifle  in  the  hot 


TITK  CALIFOUMA  AXJ)   OREGON  TRAIL.  165 

air  of  a  sick  'chamber ;  and  a  thousand  times  better  than  to 
drag  out  life,  as  many  have  done,  in  the  helpless  inaction  of 
lingering  disease."  So,  drawing  the  buffalo  robe  on  which 
I  sat  over  my  head,  I  wailed  till  the  storm  should  come.  It 
broke  at  last  with  a  sudden  burst  of  fur^^,  and  passing  away 
as  rapidly  as  it  came,  left  the  sky  clear  again.  My  reflections 
served  me  no  other  purpose  than  to  look  back  upon  as  a  piece 
of  curious  experience  ;  for  the  rain  did  not  produce  the  ill 
effects  that  I  had  expected.  We  encamped  within  an  hour. 
Having  no  change  of  clothes,  I  contrived  to  borrow  a  curious 
kind  of  substitute  from  Reynal  :  and  this  done,  I  went  home, 
that  is,  to  the  Big  Crow's  lodge,  to  make  the  entire  transfer 
that  was  necessary.  Half  a  dozen  squaws  were  in  the  lodge, 
and  one  of  them  taking  m}-  arm  held  it  against  her  own,  while 
a  general  laugh  and  scream  of  admiration  was  raised  at  the 
contrast  in  the  color  of  the  skin. 

Our  encampment  that  afternoon  was  not  far  distant  from  a 
spur  of  tlie  Black  Hills,  whose  ridges,  bristling  with  fir  trees, 
rose  from  the  plains  a  tnile  or  two  on  our  right.  That  they 
might  move  more  rapidly  toward  their  proposed  hunting 
grounds,  the  Indians  determined  to  leave  at  this  place  their 
stock  of  dried  meat  and  other  superfluous  articles.  Some  left 
even  their  lodges,  and  contented  tliemselves  with  carrying  a 
few  hides  to  make  a  shelter  from  the  sun  and  rain.  Half  the 
inhabitants  set  out  in  the  afternoon,  with  loaded  pack  horses, 
toward  the  mountains.  Here  they  suspended  the  dried  meat 
upon  trees,  where  the  wolves  and  grizzly  bears  could  not  get 
at  it.  All  returned  at  evening.  Some  of  the  young  men  de- 
clared that  they  had  heard  the  reports  of  guns  among  the 
mountains  to  the  eastward,  and  many  surmises  were  thrown 
out  as  to  the  origin  of  these  sounds.  For  my  part,  I  was  in 
hopes  that  Shaw  and  Henry  Chatillon  were  coming  to  join  us. 
I  would  have  w^elcomed  them  cordially,  for  I  had  no  other 
companions  than  two  brutish  white  men  and  five  hundred 
savages.  I  little  suspected  that  at  that  very  moment  my 
unlucky  comrade  was  lying  on  a  buffalo  robe  at  Fort  Laramie, 
fevered  wMth  ivy  poison,  and  solacing  his  w^oes  with  tobacco 
and  Shakspere. 

As  we  moved  over  the  plains  on  the  next  morning  several 
young  men  were  riding  about  the  country  as  scouts  ;  and  at 
length  we  began  to  see  them  occasionally  on  the  tops  of  the 
hills,  shaking  their  robes  as  a  signal  that  thev  saw  buffalo. 
Soon  after  some  bulls  came  .in  sight.  >  Horsemen  darted  awaV 
in  pursuit,  and  we  could  see  from  the  distance  that  one  or 


166  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

two  of  the  buffalo  were  killed.  Raymond  suddenly  became 
inspired.  I  looked  at  him  as  he  rode  by  my  side  ;  his  face 
had  actually  grown  intelligent ! 

"This  is  the  country  for  me  !"  he  said  ;  "if  I  could  only 
carry  the  buffalo  that  are  killed  here  every  month  down  to 
St.  Louis  I'd  make  my  fortune  in  one  winter.  I'd  grow  as 
rich  as  old  Papin,  or  Mackenzie  either.  I  call  this  the  poor 
man's  market.  When  I'm  hungry  I  have  only  got  to  take  my 
rifle  and  go  out  and  get  better  meat  than  the  rich  folks  down 
below  can  get  with  all  their  money.  You  won't  catch  me 
living  in  St.  Louis  another  winter." 

"No,"  said  Reynal,  "you  had  better  say  that  after  you  and 
your  Spanisli  woman  almost  starved  to  death  there.  What  a 
fool  you  were  ever  to  take  her  to  the  settlements." 

"Your  Spanish  woman?"  said  I;  "I  never  heard  of  her 
before.     Are  you  married  to  her?" 

"No,"  answered  Raymond,  again  looking  intelligent ;  "  the 
priests  don't  marry  their  women,  and  why  should  I  marry 
mine  ?  " 

This  honorable  mention  of  the  Mexican  clergy  introduced 
the  subject  ^of  religion,  and  I  found  that  my  two  associates, 
in  common  with  other  white  men  in  the  country,  were  as  indif- 
ferent to  their  future  welfare  as  men  whose  lives  are  in  con- 
stant peril  are  apt  to  be.  Raymond  had  never  heard  of  the 
Pope.  A  certain  bishop,  who  lived  at  Taos  or  at  Santa  Fe, 
embodied  his  loftiest  idea  of  an  ecclesiastical  dignitary, 
Reynal  observed  that  a  priest  had  been  at  Fort  Laramie 
two  years  ago,  on  his  way  to  the  Nez  Perce  mission,  and  that 
he  had  confessed  all  the  men  there  and  given  them  absolution. 
"I  got  a  good  clearing  out  myself  that  time,"  said  Reynal, 
"  and  I  reckon  that  will  do  for  me  till  I  go  down  to  the  settle- 
ments again." 

Here  he  interrupted  himself  with  an  oath  and  exclaimed  : 
"Look  !  look  !     The  Panther  is  running  an  antelope  !  " 

The  Panther,  on  his  black-and-white  horse,  one  of  the  best 
in  the  village,  came  at  full  speed  over  the  hill  in  hot  pursuit 
of  an  antelope  that  darted  away  like  lightning  before  him. 
The  attempt  was  made  in  mere  sport  and  bravado,  for  very 
few  are  the  horses  that  can  for  a  moment  compete  in  swift- 
ness with  this  little  animal.  The  antelope  ran  down  the  hill 
toward  the  main  body  of  the  Indians  who  were  moving  over 
the  plain  below.  Sharp  yells  were  given  and  horsemen  gal- 
loped out  to  intercept  his  flight.  .  At  this  he  turned  sharply  to 
the  left  and  scoured  away  with  sucii  incredible  speed  that  he 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  167 

distanced  all  his  pursuers  and  even  the  vaunted  horse  of  tlie 
Panther  himself.  A  few  moments  after  we  witnessed  a  more 
serious  sport.  A  shaggy  buffalo  bull  bounded  out  from  a 
neigliboring  hollow,  and  close  behind  him  came  a  slender 
Indian  boy,  riding  without  stirrups  or  saddle  and  lashing  his 
eager  little  horse  to  full  speed.  Yard  after  yard  he  drew 
closer  to  his  gigantic  victim,  though  the  bull,  with  his  short 
tail  erect  and  his  tongue  lolling  out  a  foot  from  his  foaming 
jaws,  was  straining  his  unwieldy  strength  to  the  utmost.  A 
moment  more  and  the  boy  was  close  alongside  of  him.  It 
was  our  friend  the  Ilail-Storm.  He  dropped  the  rein  on  his 
liorse's  neck  and  jerked  an  arrow  like  lightning  from  the 
quiver  at  his  shoulder. 

"  I  tell  you,"  said  Reynal,  "  that  in  a  year's  time  that  boy 
will  match  the  best  hunter  in  the  village.  There,  he  has  given 
it  to  him  !  and  there  goes  another  !  You  feel  well,  now,  old 
bull,  don't  you,  with  two  arrows  stuck  in  yoxw  lights  ?  There, 
he  has  given  him  another  !  Hear  how  the  Hail-Stoim  yells 
when  he  shoots  !  Yes,  jump  at  him  ;  try  it  again,  old  fellow  ! 
You  may  jump  all  day  before  you  get  your  horns  into  that 
pony  ! " 

The  bull  sprang  again  and  again  at  his  assailant,  but  the 
horse  kept  dodging  with  wonderful  celerity.  At  length  the 
bull  followed  up  his  attack  with  a  furious  rush,  and  the  Ilail- 
Storm  was  put  to  flight,  the  shaggy  monster  following  close 
behind.  The  bo}'  clung  in  his  seat  like  a  leech,  and  secure  in 
the  speed  of  his  little  pony,  looked  round  toward  us  and 
laughed.  In  a  moment  he  was  again  alongside  of  the  bull, 
who  was  now  driven  to  complete  desperation.  His  eyeballs 
glared  through  his  tangled  mane,  and  the  blood  flew  from  his 
mouth  and  nostrils.  Thus,  still  battling  with  each  other,  the 
two  enemies  disappeared  over  the  hill. 

Many  of  the  Indians  rode  at  full  gallop  toward  the  spot. 
We  followed  at  a  more  moderate  pace,  and  soon  saw  the  bull 
lying  dead  on  the  side  of  the  hill.  The  Indians  were  gathered 
around  him,  and  several  knives  were  already  at  work.  These 
little  instruments  were  plied  with  such  wonderful  address 
that  the  twisted  sinews  were  cut  apart,  the  ponderous  bones 
fell  asunder  as  if  by  magic,  and  in  a  moment  the  vast  carcass 
was  reduced  to  a  heap  of  bloody  ruins.  The  surrounding 
group  of  savages  offered  no  very  attractive  spectacle  to  a 
civilized  eye.  Some  were  cracking  the  huge  thighbones  and 
devouring  the  marrow  within  ;  others  were  cutting  away 
pieces  of  the  liver  and  other  approved  morsels,  and  swallow- 


168  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

ing  them  on  the  spot  with  tlie  appetite  of  wolves.  The  faces 
of  most  of  them,  besmeared  with  blood  from  ear  to  ear,  looked 
grim  and  horrible  enough.  My  friend  the  White  Shield  prof- 
fered me  a  marrowbone,  so  skillfully  laid  open  that  all  the 
rich  substance  within  was  exposed  to  view  at  once.  Another 
Indian  held  out  a  large  piece  of  the  delicate  lining  of  the 
paunch  ;  but  these  courteous  offerings  I  begged  leave  to 
decline.  I  noticed  one  little  boy  who  was  very  busj^  with  his 
knife  about  the  jaws  and  throat  of  tlie  buffalo,  from  which  he 
extracted  some  morsel  of  peculiar  de]icac3\  It  is  but  fair  to 
say  that  only  certain  parts  of  the  animal  are  considered  eligi- 
ble in  these  extempore  banquets.  The  Indians  would  look 
with  abhorrence  on  anyone  who  should  partake  indiscrimi- 
nately of  the  newly  killed  carcass. 

We  encamped  that  night,  and  marched  westward  through 
the  greater  part  of  the  following  day.  On  the  next  morning 
we  again  resumed  our  journey.  It  was  the  17th  of  July, 
unless  my  notebook  misleads  me.  At  noon  we  stopped  by 
some  pools  of  rain-water,  and  in  the  afternoon  again  set  for- 
ward. This  double  movement  was  contrary  to  the  usual 
practice  of  the  Indians,  but  all  were  very  anxious  to  reach  the 
hunting  ground,  kill  the  necessary  number  of  buffalo,  and 
retreat  as  soon  as  possible  from  the  dangerous  neighborhood. 
I  pass  by  for  the  present  some  curious  incidents  that  occurred 
during  these  marches  and  encampments.  Late  in  the  after- 
noon of  the  last-mentioned  day  we  came  upon  the  banks  of  a 
little  sandy  stream,  of  which  the  Indians  could  not  tell  the 
name';  for  they  were  very  ill  acquainted  with  that  part  of  the 
country.  So  parched  and  arid  were  the  prairies  around  that 
they  could  not  supph'  grass  enough  for  the  horses  to  feed 
upon,  and  we  were  compelled  to  move  farther  and  farther  up 
the  stream  in  search  of  ground  for  encampment.  The  country 
was  much  wilder  than  before.  The  plains  were  gashed  with 
ravines  and  broken  into  hollows  and  steep  declivities,  which 
flanked  our  course,  as,  in  long  scattered  array,  the  Indians 
advanced  up  the  side  of  the  stream.  Mene-Seela  consulted 
an  extraordinary  oracle -to  instruct  him  where  the  buffalo 
were  to  be  found.  When  he  with  tlie  other  chiefs  sat  down 
on  the  grass  to  smoke  and  converse,  as  they  often  did  during 
the  march,  the  old  man  picked  up  one  of  those  enormous 
black-and-green  crickets,  which  the  Dakota  call  by  a  name 
that  signifies"  They  who  point  out  the  buffalo."  The  Root- 
Diggers,  a  wretched  tribe  beyond  the  mountains,  turn  them 
to  good  account  by  making  them  into  a  sort  of  soup,  pro- 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  169 

nounced  by  certain  nnscrupiilous  trappers  to  be  extremely 
rich.  Holding  the  bloated  insect  respectfully  between  his 
lingers  and  thumb,  tlie  old  Indian  looked  attentively  at  him 
and  inquired,  "  Tell  me,  my  father,  where  must  we  go  to- 
morrow to  find  the  buflFalo?"  The  cricket  twisted  about  his 
long  horns  in  evident  embarrassment.  At  last  he  pointed,  or 
seemed  to  point,  them  westward.  Mene-Seela,  dropping  him 
gently  on  the  grass,  laughed  with  great  glee,  and  said  that  if 
we  went  that  way  in  the  morning  we  should  be  sure  to  kill 
plent}^  of  game. 

Toward  evening  we  came  upon  a  fresh  green  meadow, 
traversed  by  the  stream,  and  deep-set  among  tall  sterile  bluffs. 
The  Indians  descended  its  steep  bank  ;  and  as  I  was  at  the 
rear,  I  was  one  of  the  last  to  reach  tliis  point.  Lances  were 
glittering,  feathers  fluttering,  and  the  water  below  me  was 
crowded  with  men  and  horses  passing  through,  while  the 
meadow  beyond  was  swarming  with  the  restless  crowd  of 
Indians.  The  sun  was  just  setting,  and  poured  its  softened 
light  upon  them  through  an  opening  in  the  hills. 

1  remarked  to  Reynal  that  at  last  we  had  found  a  good 
camping-ground. 

"Oh,  it  is  very  good,"  replied  he  ironically  ;  "especially  if 
there  is  a  Snake  war  party  about,  and  they  take  it  into  their 
heads  to  shoot  down  at  us  from  the  top  of  these  hills.  It  is 
no  plan  of  mine,  camping  in  such  a  hole  as  this  !  " 

The  Indians  also  seemed  apprehensive.  High  up  on  the 
top  of  the  tallest  bluff,  conspicuous  in  the  bright  evening  sun- 
light, sat  a  naked  warrior  on  horseback,  looking  around,  as  it 
seemed,  over  the  neighboring  country  ;  and  Raymond  told  me 
that  many  of  the  young  men  had  gone  out  in  different  direc- 
tions as  scouts. 

Tiie  shadows  had  reached  to  the  very  summit  of  the  bluffs 
before  the  lodges  were  erected  and  the  village  reduced  again 
to  quiet  and  order.  A  cry  was  suddenly  raised,  and  men^ 
women,  and  children  came  running  out  with  animated  faces, 
and  looked  eagerly  through  the  opening  on  the  hills  by  which 
the  stream  entered  frotn  the  westward.  I  could  discern  afar 
off  some  dark,  heavy  masses,  passing  over  the  sides  of  a  low 
hill.  They  disappeared,  and  tlien  others  followed.  These 
were  bands  of  buffalo  cows.  The  hunting  ground  was  reached 
at  last,  and  everything  promised  well  for  the  morrow's  sport. 
Being  fatigued  and  exhausted,  I  went  and  lay  down  in  Kon- 
gra-Tonga's  lodge,  when  Raymond  thrust  in  his  head,  and 
called  upon  me  to  come  and  see  some  sport.     A  number  of 


170  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

Indians  were  gathered,  laughing,  along  the  line  of  lodges  on 
the  western  side  of  tlie  village,  and  at  some  distance,  I  could 
plainly  see  in  the  twilight  two  huge  black  monsters  stalking, 
heavily  and  solemnly,  directly  toward  us.  Tliey  were  buffalo 
bulls.  The  wind  blew  from  tliem  to  the  village,  and  such  was 
their  blindness  and  stupidity  that  they  were  advancing  upon 
the  enemy  without  the  least  consciousness  of  his  presence. 
Raymond  told  me  tliat  two  j^oung  men  had  hidden  themselves 
with  guns  in  a  ravine  about  twenty  yards  in  front  of  us.  The 
two  bulls  walked  slowly  on,  heavily  swinging  from  side  to  side 
in  their  peculiar  gait  of  stupid  dignitJ^  They  approached 
within  four  or  five  rods  of  the  ravine  where  the  Indians  lay  in 
ambush.  Here  at  last  they  seemed  conscious  that  something 
was  wrong,  for  they  both  stopped  and  stood  perfectly  still, 
without  looking  either  to  the  right  or  to  the  left.  Nothing 
of  them  was  to  be  seen  but  two  huge  black  niasses  of  shaggy 
mane,  with  horns,  eyes,  and  nose  in  the  center,  and  a  pair  of 
hoofs  visible  at  the  bottom.  At  last  the  more  intelligent  of 
them  seemed  to  have  concluded  that  it  was  time  to  retire. 
Ver}^  slowly,  and  with  an  air  of  the  gravest  and  most  majestic 
deliberation,  he  began  to  turn  round,  as  if  he  were  revolving 
on  a  pivot.  Little  by  little  his  ugly  brown  side  was  exposed 
to  view.  A  white  smoke  sprang  out,  as  it  were  from  the 
ground;  a  sharp  report  came  with  it.  Tiie  old  bull  gave  a 
very  undignified  jump  and  galloped  off.  At  this  his  comrade 
wheeled  about  with  considerable  expedition.  The  other  Indian 
shot  at  him  from  the  ravine,  and  then  both  the  bulls  were 
running  away  at  full  speed,  while  half  the  juvenile  population 
of  the  village  raised  a  veil  and  ran  after  them.  The  first  bull 
soon  stopped,  and  while  the  crowd  stood  looking  at  him  at  a 
respectful  distance,  he  reeled  and  rolled  over  on  his  side.  The 
other,  wounded  in  a  less  vital  part,  galloped  away  to  the  hills 
and  escaped. 

In  half  an  hour  it  was  totally  dark.  I  lay  down  to  sleep, 
and  ill  as  I  was,  there  was  something  very  animating  in  the 
prospect  of  the  general  hunt  that  was  to  take  place  on  the 
morrow. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  171 

CHAPTER  XV. 

THE    HUNTING      AMP. 

The  Perse  owt  of  Nortliamberlande, 

And  a  vowe  to  God  mayde  he, 
Tliat  he  wolde  hiiute  in  the  mountayns 

Off  Cliyviat  witliin  dayes  thre. 
In  the  manger  of  doughte  Dogles, 

And  all  that  ever  with  him  be. 

Chevy  Chasb. 

Long  before  daybreak  the  Indians  broke  up  their  camp. 
The  women  of  Mene-Seela's  lodge  were  as  usual  among  the 
first  that  were  ready  for  departure,  and  I  found  the  old  man 
himself  sitting  by  tlie  embers  of  the  decayed  fire,  over  which 
he  was  warming  his  withered  fingers,  as  the  morning  was  very 
chill}'  and  damp.  The  preparations  for  moving  were  even  more 
confused  and  disorderly  than  usual.  While  some  families  were 
leaving  the  ground  the  lodges  of  others  were  still  standing  un- 
touched. At  this  old  Mene-Seela  grew  impatient,  and  walking 
out  to  the  middle  of  the  village  stood  with  his  robe  wrapped 
close  around  him,  and  harangued  the  people  in  a  loud,  sharp 
voice.  Now,  he  said,  when  they  were  on  an  enemy's  hunting 
grounds,  was  not  the  time  to  behave  like  children  ;  they  ought 
to  be  more  active  and  united  than  ever.  His  speech  had  some 
effect.  The  delinquents  took  down  their  lodges  and  loaded 
their  pack  horses  ;  and  when  the  sun  rose,  the  last  of  the  men, 
Avomen,  and  children  had  left  the  deserted  camp. 

This  movement  was  made  merely  for  the  purpose  of  finding 
a  better  and  safer  position.  So  we  advanced  only  three  or  four 
miles  up  the  little  stream,  before  each  family  assumed  its  rela- 
tive place  in  the  great  ring  of  the  village,  and  all  around  tlie 
squaws  were  activeh'  at  work  in  preparing  the  camp.  But  not 
a  single  warrior  dismounted  from  his  horse.  All  the  men  that 
morning  were  mounted  on  inferior  animals,  leading  their  best 
horses  by  a  cord,  or  confiding  them  to  the  care  of  boys.  In 
small  parties  they  began  to  leave  the  ground  and  ride  rajjidly 
away  over  the  plains  to  the  westward.  I  had  taken  no  food 
that  morning,  and  not  being  at  all  ambitious  of  farther  absti- 
nence, I  went  into  my  host's  lodge,  which  his  squaws  had 
erected  with  wonderful  celerity,  and  sat  down  in  the  center,  as 
a  gentle  hint  that  I  was  hungry.  A  wooden  bowl  was  soon  set 
before  me,  filled  with  the  nutritious  |)reparation  of  dried  meat 
called  jocmm/caw  by  the  northern  voyagers  and  tcasiia  bv  the 


l'/2  THE  CALIFOliMA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

Dakota.  Taking  a  handful  to  break  my  fast  uj3on,  I  left  the 
lodge  just  in  time  to  see  the  last  band  of  hunters  disappear  over 
the  ridge  of  the  neighboring  hill.  I  mounted  Pauline  and  gal- 
loped in  pursuit,  riding  rather  by  the  balance  than  by  any  mus- 
cular strength  that  remained  to  me.  From  the  top  of  the  hill 
I  could  overlook  a  wide  extent  of  desolate  and  unbroken  prairie, 
over  which,  far  and  near,  little  parties  of  naked  horsemen  were 
rapidly  passing.  I  soon  came  up  to  the  nearest,  and  we  had  not 
ridden  a  mile  before  all  were  united  into  one  large  and  compact 
body.  All  was  haste  and  eagerness.  Each  hunter  was  whip- 
ping on  his  horse,  as  if  anxious  to  be  the  first  to  reach  the  game. 
In  such  movements  among  the  Indians  this  is  always  more  or 
less  the  case  ;  but  it  was  especially  so  in  the  present  instance, 
because  the  head  chief  of  the  village  was  absent,  and  there 
were  but  few  "  soldiers,"  a  sort  of  Indian  police,  who  among 
their  other  functions  usually  assume  the  direction  of  a  buffalo 
hunt.  No  man  turned  to  the  right  hand  or  to  the  left.  AVe 
rode  at  a  swift  canter  straight  forward,  uphill  and  downhill, 
and  through  the  stiff,  obstinate  growth  of  the  endless  wild-sage 
bushes.  For  an  hour  and  a  half  the  same  red  shoulders,  the 
same  long  black  hair  rose  and  fell  with  the  motion  of  tlie 
horses  before  me.  Very  little  was  said,  tliough  once  I  observed 
an  old  man  severely  reproving  Ra3anond  for  having  left  his 
rifle  behind  him,  when  there  was  some  probability  of  encoun- 
tering an  enemy  before  the  day  was  over.  As  we  galloped 
across  a  plain  thickly  set  with  sage  bushes,  the  foremost  riders 
vanished  suddenly  from  sight,  as  if  diving  into  the  earth.  The 
arid  soil  was  cracked  into  a  deep  ravine.  Down  we  all  went 
in  succession  and  galloped  in  a  line  along  the  bottom,  until  we 
found  a  point  where,  one  by  one,  the  horses  could  scramble  out. 
Soon  after,  we  came  upon  a  wide  shallow  stream,  and  as  we 
rode  swiftly  over  the  hard  sand-beds  and  through  the  thin 
sheets  of  rippling  water,  many  of  the  savage  horsemen  threw 
themselves  to  the  ground,  knelt  on  the  sand,  snatched  a  hasty 
draught,  and  leaping  back  again  to  their  seats,  galloped  on 
again  as  before. 

Meanwhile  scouts  kept  in  advance  of  the  party  ;  and  now 
we  began  to  see  them  on  the  ridge  of  the  hills,  waving  their 
robes  in  token  that  buffalo  were  visible.  These  however  proved 
to  be  nothing  more  than  old  straggling  bulls,  feeding  upon  the 
neighboring  plains,  who  would  stare  for  a  moment  at  the  hostile 
array  and  then  gallop  clumsily  off.  At  length  we  could  dis- 
cern several  of  these  scouts  making  their  signals  to  us  at  once  ; 
no  longer  waving  their  robes  boldly  from  the  top  of  the  hill, 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  173 

but  standing  lower  down,  so  that  they  could  not  be  seen  from 
the  plains  beyond.  Game  worth  pursuing  had  evidently  been 
discovered.  The  excited  Indians  now  urged  forward  their 
tired  horses  even  more  rapidly  than  before.  Pauline,  who  was 
still  sick  and  jaded,  began  to  groan  heavily  ;  and  her  yellow 
sides  were  darkened  with  sweat.  As  we  were  crowding 
together  over  a  lower  intervening  hill,  I  heard  Reynal  and  Ray- 
mond shouting  to  me  from  the  left  ;  and  looking  in  that  direc- 
tion, I  saw  them  riding  away  behind  a  party  of  about  twenty 
mean-looking  Indians.  These  were  the  relatives  of  ReynaPs 
squaw  Margot,  who,  not  wishing  to  take  part  in  the  general 
Imnt,  were  riding  toward  a  distant  hollow,  where  they  could 
discern  a  small  band  of  buffalo  which  they  meant  to  appropriate 
to  themselves.  I  answered  to  the  call  by  ordering  Raymond 
to  turn  back  and  follow  me.  He  reluctantly  obeyed,  though 
Reynal,  who  had  relied  on  his  assistance  in  skinning,  cutting 
up,  and  carrying  to  camp  the  buffalo  that  he  and  his  party 
should  kill,  loudly  protested  and  declared  that  we  should  see 
no  sport  if  w^e  went  with  the  rest  of  the  Indians.  Followed 
by  Raymond  I  pursued  the  main  body  of  hunters,  while  Rey- 
nal in  a  great  rage  whipped  his  horse  over  the  hill  after  his 
ragamuffin  relatives.  The  Indians,  still  about  a  hundred  in 
number,  rode  in  a  dense  body  at  some  distance  in  advance. 
They  galloped  forward,  and  a  cloud  of  dust  was  flying  in  the 
wind  behind  them.  I  could  not  overtake  them  until  they  had 
stopped  on  the  side  of  the  hill  where  the  scouts  were  standing. 
Here,  each  hunter  sprang  in  haste  from  the  tired  animal  which 
he  had  ridden,  and  leaped  upon  the  fresh  horse  that  he  had 
brought  with  him.  There  was  not  a  saddle  or  a  bridle  in  the 
whole  party.  A  piece  of  buffalo  robe  girthed  over  the  horse's 
back  served  in  the  place  of  the  one,  and  a  cord  of  twisted  hair 
lashed  firmly  round  his  lower  jaw  answered  for  the  otlier. 
Eagle  feathers  were  dangling  from  every  mane  and  tail,  as 
insignia  of  courage  and  speed.  As  for  the  rider,  he  wore  no 
other  clothing  than  a  light  cincture  at  his  waist,  and  a  pair  of 
moccasins.  He  had  a  heavy  whij),  with  a  handle  of  solid  elk- 
horn,  and  a  lash  of  knotted  bull-hide,  fastened  to  his  wrist  by 
an  ornamental  band.  His  bow  was  in  his  hand,  and  his  quiver 
of  otter  or  panther  skin  hung  at  his  shoulder.  Thus  equipped, 
some  thirty  of  the  hunters  galloped  away  toward  the  left,  in 
order  to  make  a  circuit  under  cover  of  the  hills,  that  the  buf- 
falo might  be  assailed  on  both  sides  at  once.  The  rest  im- 
patiently  waited  until  time  enough  had  ela])sed  for  their  com- 
panions to  reach  the  re(|uired   position.     Then  riding  upward 


174  TEE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL, 

in  a  body,  we  gained  the  ridge  of  the  hill,  and  for  the  first 
time  came  ill  sight  of  the  buffalo  on  the  plain  beyond. 

They  were  a  band  of  cows,  four  or  five  hundred  in  number, 
who  were  crowded  together  near  the  bank  of  a  wide  stream 
that  was  soaking  across  the  sand-beds  of  the  valley.  This 
was  a  large  circular  basin,  sun-scorched  and  broken,  scantily 
covered  with  herbage  and  encompassed  with  high  barren  hills, 
from  an  opening  in  which  we  could  see  our  allies  galloping  out 
upon  the  plain.  The  wind  blew  from  that  direction.  The 
buffalo  were  aware  of  their  approach,  and  had  begun  to  move, 
though  very  slowly  and  in  a  compact  mass.  I  have  no  farther 
recollection  of  seeing  the  game  until  we  were  in  the  midst  of 
them,  for  as  we  descended  the  hill  other  objects  engrossed  my 
attention.  Numerous  old  bulls  were  scattered  over  the  plain, 
and  ungallantly  deserting  their  charge  at  our  a]>proach,  began 
to  wade  and  plunge  through  the  treacherous  quicksands  or  the 
stream,  and  gallop  away  toward  the  hills.  One  old  veteran 
was  struggling  behind  all  the  rest  with  one  of  his  forelegs, 
which  had  been  broken  by  some  accident,  dangling  about  use- 
lessly at  his  side.  His  appearance,  as  he  went  shambling  along 
on  three  legs,  was  so  ludicrous  that  I  could  not  help  pausing 
for  a  moment  to  look  at  him.  As  I  came  near,  he  would  try 
to  rush  upon  me,  nearly  throwing  himself  down  at  ever^^  awk- 
ward attempt.  Looking  up,  I  saw  the  whole  body  of  Indians 
full  a  hundred  yards  in  advance.  I  lashed  Pauline  in  pursuit 
and  reached  them  but  just  in  time  ;  for  as  Ave  mingled  among 
them,  each  hunter,  as  if  by  a  common  impulse,  violently  struck 
his  horse,  each  horse  sprang  forward  convulsively,  and  scat- 
tering in  the  charge  in  order  to  assail  the  entire  herd  at  once, 
we  all  rushed  headlong  upon  the  buffalo.  We  were  among 
them  in  an  instant.  Amid  the  trampling  and  the  yells  I  could 
see  their  dark  figures  running  hither  and  thither  through  clouds 
of  dust,  and  the  horsemen  darting  in  pursuit.  While  we  were 
charging  on  one  side,  our  companions  had  attacked  the  bewil- 
dered and  panic-stricken  herd  on  the  other.  The  uproar  and 
confusion  lasted  but  for  a  moment.  The  dust  cleared  awaj^ 
and  the  buffalo  could  be  seen  scattering  as  from  a  common 
center,  fl3^ing  over  the  plain  singl}',  or  in  long  files  and  small 
compact  bodies,  while  behind  each  followed  the  Indians,  lashing 
their  horses  to  furious  speed,  forcing  them  close  upon  their 
pre}'',  and  yelling  as  they  launched  arrow  after  arrow  into  their 
sides.  The  large  black  carcasses  were  strewn  thickh^  over 
the  ground.  Here  and  there  wounded  buffalo  were  standing, 
their  bleeding  sides    feathered  with  arrows  ;    and  ns  I  rode 


TIJE  CALtFOllNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  175 

past  tlieiu  their  eyes  would  glare,  they  woul^  bristle  like 
gigantic  cats,  and  feebly  attempt  to  rush  up  and  gore  my 
horse. 

I  left  camp  tliat  morning  with  a  philosophic  resolution. 
Neitlier  I  nor  my  horse  were  at  that  time  fit  for  such  sport, 
and  I  had  determined  to  remain  a  quiet  spectator  ;  but  amid 
the  rush  of  horses  and  buffalo,  the  uproar  and  the  dust,  I  found 
it  impossible  to  sit  still ;  and  as  four  or  five  buffalo  ran  past 
me  in  a  line,  I  drove  Pauline  in  pursuit.  We  went  plunging 
close  at  tlieir  heels  through  the  water  and  the  quicksands,  and 
clambering  the  bank,  cliased  them  through  the  wild-sage 
bushes  that  covered  the  rising  ground  beyond.  But  neither 
her  native  spirit  nor  the  blows  of  the  knotted  bull-hide  could 
supply  the  place  of  poor  Pauline's  exhausted  strength.  AVe 
could  not  gain  an  inch  upon  the  poor  fugitives.  At  last, 
however,  they  came  full  upon  a  ravine  too  wide  to  leap  over  ; 
and  as  this  compelled  them  to  turn  abruptly  to  the  left,  I  con- 
trived to  get  within  ten  or  twelve  yards  of  the  hindmost.  At 
this  she  faced  about,  bristled  angrily,  and  made  a  show  of 
charging.  I  shot  at  her  with  a  large  holster  pistol,  and  hit 
her  somewhere  in  the  neck.  Down  she  tumbled  into  the 
ravine,  whither  her  companions  had  descended  before  her. 
I  saw  tlieir  dark  backs  appearing  and  disappearing  as  they 
galloped  along  the  bottom  ^  then,  one  by  one,  they  came 
scrambling  out  on  the  other  side  and  ran  off  as  before,  the 
wounded  animal  following  with  unabated  speed. 

Turning  back,  I  saw  Raymond  coming  on  his  black  mule 
to  meet  me  ;  and  as  we  rode  over  the  field  together,  we 
counted  dozens  of  carcasses  lying  on  the  plain,  in  the  ravines 
and  on  the  sandy  bed  of  the  stream.  Far  away  in  the  dis- 
tance, horses  and  buffalo  were  still  scouring  along,  with  little 
clouds  of  dust  rising  behind  them  ;  and  over  the  sides  of  the 
hills  we  could  see  long  files  of  the  frightened  animals  rapidly 
ascending.  The  hunters  began  to  return.  The  boys,  who 
had  held  the  horses  behind  the  hill,  made  their  appearance, 
and  the  work  of  flaying  and  cutting  up  began  in  earnest  all 
over  the  field.  I  noticed  my  host  Kongra-'l'onga  beyond  the 
stream,  just  alighting  by  the  side  of  a  cow  which  he  had 
killed.  Riding  up  to  him  I  found  him  in  the  act  of  drawing 
out  an  arrow,  which,  with  the  exception  of  the  notch  at  the 
end,  had  entirely  disappeared  in  the  animal.  I  asked  him  to 
give  it  to  me,  and  I  still  retain  it  as  a  proof,  though  by  no 
means  the  most  striking  one  that  could  be  oft'ered,  of  the  force 
and  dexterity  with  which  the  Indians  discharge  their  arrows. 


176  THE  CALIFOHNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

The  hides  and  meat  were  piled  upon  the  horses,  and  the 
hunters  began  to  leave  the  ground.  Raymond  and  I,  too, 
getting  tired  of  the  scene,  set  out.  for  the  village,  riding 
straight  across  the  intervening  desert.  Tiiere  was  no  path, 
and  as  far  as  I  could  see,  no  landmarks  sufficient  to  guide 
us  ;  but  Ra^^mond  seemed  to  have  an  instinctive  perception 
of  the  point  on  the  horizon  toward  which  we  ought  to  direct 
our  course.  Antelope  were  bounding  on  all  sides,  and  as  is 
always  the  case  in  the  presence  of  buifalo,  tliey  seemed  to 
have  lost  their  natural  sliyness  and  timidit3\  Bands  of  them 
would  run  lightly  up  the  rocky  declivities,  and  stand  gazing 
down  upon  us  from  the  summit.  At  length  we  could  dis- 
tinguish the  tall  white  rocks  and  the  old  pine  trees  that,  as  we 
well  remembered,  were  just  above  the  site  of  the  encampment. 
Still,  we  could  see  nothing  of  the  village  itself  until,  ascend- 
ing a  grassy  hill,  we  found  the  circle  of  lodges,  dingy  with 
storms  and  smoke,  standing  on  the  plain  at  our  very  feet. 

I  entered  the  lodge  of  my  host.  His  squaw  instantly 
brought  me  food  and  water,  and  spread  a  buffalo  robe  for  me 
to  lie  upon  ;  and  being  much  fatigued,  P  lay  down  and  fell 
asleep.  In  about  an  hour  the  entrance  of  Kongra-Tonga,  with 
his  arms  snieared  with  blood  to  tlie  elbows,  awoke  me.  He 
sat  down  in  his  usual  seat  on  the  left  side  of  the  lodge.  His 
squaw  gave  him  a  vessel  of  water  for  washing,  set  before  him 
a  bowl  of  boiled  meat,  and  as^e  was  eating  pulled  off  his 
bloody  moccasins  and  placed  fresh  ones  on  his  feet ;  then  out- 
stretching his  limbs,  my  host  composed  himself  to  sleep. 

And  now  the  hunters,  two  or  three  at  a  time,  began  to  come 
rapidl}^  in,  and  each,  consigning  his  horses  to  the  squaws,  en- 
tered Lis  lodge  with  the  air  of  a  man  whose  day's  work  was 
done.  The  squaws  flung  down  the  load  from  the  burdened 
horses,  and  vast  piles  of  meat  and  hides  were  soon  accumulated 
before  every  lodge.  By  this  time  it  was  darkening  fast,  and 
the  whole  village  was  illumined  by  the  glare  of  fires  blazing 
all  around.  All  the  squaws  and  children  were  gathered  about 
the  piles  of  meat,  exploring  them  in  search  of  the  daintiest 
portions.  Some  of  these  they  roasted  on  sticks  before  the 
fires,  but  often  they  dispensed  with  this  superfluous  operation. 
Late  into  the  night  the  fires  were  still  glowing  upon  the  groups 
of  feasters  engaged  in  this  savage  banquet  around  them. 

Several  hunters  sat  down  by  the  fire  in  Kongra-Tonga's 
lodge  to  talk  over  the  day's  exploits.  Among  the  rest,  Mene- 
Seela  came  in.  Though  he  must  have  seen  full  eighty  win- 
ters, he  had   taken  an  active  share  in  the  day's  sport.     He 


Till-:  CALIFORiMA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL.  177 

boasted  that  he  had  killed  two  cows  that  morning,  and  would 
have  killed  a  third  if  the  dust  had  not  blinded  him  so  that  he 
had  to  drop  liis  bow  and  arrows  and  press  both  hands  against 
his  eyes  to  stop  the  pain.  The  firelight  fell  upon  his  wrinkled 
face  and  shriveled  figure  as  lie  sat  telling  his  story  with  such 
inimitable  gesticulation  that  every  man  in  the  lodge  broke  into 
a  laugh. 

Old  Mene-Seela  was  one  of  the  few  Indians  in  the  village 
with  whom  I  would  have  trusted  myself  alone  w  ithout  suspi- 
cion, and  the  only  one  from  whom  I  would  have  received  a 
gift  or  a  service  without  the  certainty  that  it  proceeded  from  an 
interested  motive.  He  was  a  great  friend  to  the  whites.  He 
liked  to  be  in  their  society,  and  was  very  vain  of  the  favors  he 
had  received  from  thein.  He  told  me  one  afternoon,  as  we 
were  sitting  together  in  his  son's  lodge,  that  he  considered  the 
beaver  and  the  whites  the  wisest  people  on  earth  ;  indeed,  he 
was  convinced  they  were  the  same  ;  and  an  incident  which  had 
liappened  to  him  long  before  had  assured  him  of  this.  So  he 
began  the  following  story,  and  as  the  pipe  passed  in  turn  to 
him,  Reynal  availed  himself  of  these  interruptions  to  trans- 
late what  had  preceded.  But  the  old  man  accompanied  his 
words  with  such  admirable  pantomime  that  translation  was 
liardly  necessary. 

He  said  that  when  he  was  very  young,  and  had  never  yet 
seen  a  white  man,  he  and  three  or  four  of  his  companior.swere 
out  on  a  beaver  hunt,  and  he  crawled  into  a  large  beaver  lodge, 
to  examine  w^hat  was  there.  Sometimes  he  was  creeping  on 
his  hands  and  knees,  sometimes  he  was  obliged  to  swim,  and 
sometimes  to  lie  flat  on  his  face  and  drag  himself  along.  In 
this  way  he  crawled  a  great  distance  underground.  It  was 
very  dark,  cold,  and  close,  so  that  at  last  he  was  almost  suffo- 
cated, and  fell  into  a  swoon.  When  he  began  to  recover,  he 
could  just  distinguish  the  voices  of  his  companions  outside, 
who  had  given  him  up  for  lost,  and  were  singing  his  death  song. 
At  first  he  could  see  nothing,  but  soon  he  discerned  some- 
thing white  before  him,  at  and  length  plainly  distinguished 
three  people,  entirely  white,  one  man  and  two  women,  sitting 
at  the  edge  of  a  black  pool  of  water.  He  became  alarmed  and 
thought  it  high  time  to  retreat.  Having  succeeded,  after  great 
trouble,  in  reaching  daylight  again,  he  went  straight  to  the 
spot  directly  above  the  pool  of  water  where  he  had  seen  the 
three  mysterious  beings.  Here  he  beat  a  hole  with  his  war 
club  in  the  ground,  and  sat  down  to  watch.  In  a  moment  the 
nose  of  an  old  male  beaver  appeared  at  the  opening.     ]Mene- 


1*78  THK  CALIFORNIA  AND   OBEGON  TRAIL. 

Seela  instantly  seized  him  and  dragged  him  up,  when  two 
other  beavers,  both  females,  thrust  out  their  heads,  and  these 
he  served  in  the  same  wa}^  "These,"  continued  tlie  old 
man,  "  must  have  been  the  three  white  people  whom  I  saw 
sitting  at  the  edge  of  the  water." 

Mene-Seela  was  the  grand  depository  of  the  legends  and 
traditions  of  the  village.  I  succeeded,  however,  in  getting 
from  him  only  a  few  fragments.  Like  all  Indians,  he  was 
excessively  superstitious,  and  continually  saw  some  reason  for 
withholding  his  stories.  "  It  is  a  bad  thing,"  he  would  say, 
*'  to  tell  the  tales  in  summer.  Stay  with  us  till  next  winter, 
and  I  will  tell  you  everything  I  know  ;  but  now  our  war 
parties  are  going  out,  and  our  young  men  will  be  killed  if  I 
sit  down  to  tell  stories  before  the  frost  begins." 

But  to  leave  this  digression.  We  remained  encamped  on 
this  spot  five  days,  during  three  of  which  the  hunters  were  at 
work  incessantly,  and  immense  quantities  of  meat  and  hides 
were  brought  in.  Great  alarm,  however,  prevailed  in  the  vil- 
lage. All  were  on  the  alert.  The  young  men  were  ranging 
through  the  country  as  scouts,  and  the  old  men  paid  careful 
attention  to  omens  and  prodigies,  and  especially  to  their 
dreams.  In  order  to  convey  to  the  enemy  (who,  if  they  were 
in  the  neighborhood,  must  inevitably  have  known  of  our 
presence)  the  impression  that  we  were  constantly  on  the 
watch,  piles  of  sticks  and  stones  were  erected  on  all  the  sur- 
rounding hills,  in  such  a  manner  as  to  appear  at  a  distance 
like  sentinels.  Often,  even  to  this  hour,  that  scene  will  rise 
before  my  mind  like  a  visible  reality  :  the  tall  white  rocks  ; 
the  old  pine  trees  on  their  summits  ;  the  sandy  stream  that 
ran  along  their  bases  and  half  encircled  the  village  ;  and  the 
wild-sage  bushes,  with  their  dull  green  hue  and  their  medici- 
nal odor,  that  covered  all  the  neighboring  declivities.  Hour 
after  hour  the  squaws  would  pass  and  repass  wdth  their  vessels 
of  water  between  the  stream  and  the  lodges.  For  the  most 
part  no  one  was  to  be  seen  in  the  camp  but  women  and  chil- 
dren, two  or  three  superannuated  old  men,  and  a  few  lazy  and 
worthless  young  ones.  These,  together  with  the  dogs,  now 
grown  fat  and  good-natured  w^ith  the  abundance  in  the  camp, 
were  its  only  tenants.  Still  it  presented  a  busy  and  bustling 
scene.  In  all  quarters  the  meat,  hung  on  cords  of  hide,  was 
drying  in  the  sun,  and  around  the  lodges  the  squaws,  young 
and  old,  were  laboring  on  the  fresh  hides  that  were  stretched 
upon  the  ground,  scraping  the  hair  from  one  side  and  the 
still  adhering  flesh  from  the  other,  and  rubbing  into  them 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OliEGON  TRAIL.  1*70 

the  brains  of  the  buffalo,  in  order  to  render  tliem  soft  and 
pliant. 

In  mercy  to  mj^self  and  my  horse,  I  never  went  out  with 
the  hunters  after  the  first  day.  Of  late,  however,  I  had  been 
gaining  strengtii  rapidly,  as  was  always  the  case  upon  every 
respite  of  my  disorder.  I  was  soon  able  to  walk  with  ease. 
Raymond  and  I  would  go  out  upon  the  neighboring  prairies 
to  shoot  antelope,  or  sometimes  to  assail  straggling  buffalo, 
on  foot,  an  attempt  in  which  we  met  with  rather  indifferent 
success.  To  kill  a  bull  with  a  rifle-ball  is  a  difficult  art,  in 
the  secret  of  which  I  was  as  yet  very  imperfectly  initiated. 
As  I  came  out  of  Kongra-Tonga's  lodge  one  morning,  Rey- 
nal  called  to  me  from  the  opposite  side  of  the  village,  and 
asked  me  over  to  breakfast.  The  breakfast  was  a  substantial 
one.  It  consisted  of  the  rich,  juicy  hump-ribs  of  a  fat  cow  ; 
a  repast  absolutely  unrivaled.  It  was  roasting  before  the 
lire,  impaled  upon  a  stout  stick,  which  Reynal  took  up  and 
planted  in  the  ground  before  his  lodge  ;  when  he,  with  Ray- 
mond and  myself,  taking  our  seats  around  it,  unsheathed  our 
knives  and  assailed  it  with  good  will.  In  spite  of  all  medical 
experience,  this  solid  fare,  without  bread  or  salt,  seemed  to 
agree  with  me  admirably. 

"  We  shall  have  strangers  here  before  night,"  said  Reynal. 

**  How  do  you  know  that  ?  "  I  asked. 

"  I  dreamed  so.  I  am  as  good  at  dreaming  as  an  Indian. 
There  is  the  Hail-Storm  ;  he  dreamed  the  same  thing,  and  he 
and  his  crony,  the  Rabbit,  have  gone  out  on  discovery." 

I  laughed  at  Reynal  for  his  credulity,  went  over  to  my  host's 
lodge,  took  down  my  rifle,  walked  out  a  mile  or  two  on  the 
prairie,  saw  an  old  bull  standing  alone,  crawled  up  a  ravine, 
shot  him,  and  saw  him  escape.  Then,  quite  exhausted  and 
rather  ill-humored,  I  walked  back  to  the  village.  By  a  strange 
coincidence,  Rev nal's  prediction  had  been  verified ;  for  the  first 
persons  whom  I  saw  were  the  two  trappers.  Rouleau  and  Sara- 
phin,  coming  to  meet  me.  These  men,  as  the  reader  may 
possibly  recollect,  had  left  our  party  about  a  fortnight  before, 
They  had  been  trapping  for  a  while  among  the  Black  Hills, 
and  were  now  on  their  way  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  intending 
in  a  day  or  two  to  set  out  for  the  neighboring  Medicine  Bow. 
They  were  not  tlie  most  elegant  or  refined  of  companions,  yet 
they  made  a  very  welcome  addition  to  the  limited  societyof  the 
village.  For  the  rest  of  that  day  we  lay  smoking  and  talking 
in  Rey nal's  lodge.  This  indeed  was  no  better  than  a  little 
hut,  made  of  hides  stretched  on   i)oles,  and  entirely  open  in 


180  THE  CALIPOENIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

front.  It  was  well  carpeted  with  soft  buffalo  robes,  and  here 
we  remained,  sheltered  from  tlie  sun,  surrounded  by  various 
domestic  utensils  of  Madame  Margot's  household.  All  was 
quiet  in  the  village.  Though  the  hunters  had  not  gone  out 
that  day,  they  lay  sleeping  in  their  lodges,  aiid  most  of  the 
women  were  silently  engaged  in  their  heavy  tasks.  A  few 
young  men  were  playing  at  a  lazy  game  of  ball  in  the  center 
of  the  village  ;  and  when  they  became  tired,  some  girls  sup- 
plied their  place  with  a  more  boisterous  sport.  At  a  little 
distance,  among  the  lodges,  some  children  and  half-grown 
squaws  were  j^layfully  tossing  up  one  of  their  number  in  a 
buffalo  robe,  an  exact  counterpart  of  the  ancient  pastime  from 
which  Sancho  Panza  suffered  so  much.  Farther  out  on  the 
prairie,  a  host  of  little  naked  boys  were  roaming  about,  engaged 
in  various  rough  games,  or  pursuing  birds  and  ground-squirrels 
with  their  bows  and  arrows ;  and  woe  to  the  unhappy  little 
animals  that  fell  into  their  merciless,  torture-loving  hands  !  A 
squaw  from  the  next  lodge,  a  notable  active  housewife  named 
Weah  Washtay,  or  the  Good  Woman,  brought  us  a  large  bowl 
of  Wasna,  and  went  into  an  ecstasy  of  delight  when  I  pre- 
sented her  with  a  green  glass  ring,  such  as  I  usually  wore 
with  a  view  to  similar  occasions. 

The  sun  went  down  and  lialf  the  sk}'  was  growing  fiery  red, 
reflected  on  the  little  stream  as  it  wound  away  among  the 
sage  bushes.  Some  young  men  left  the  village,  and  soon  re- 
turned driving  in  before  them  all  the  horses,  hundreds  in 
number,  and  of  every  size,  age,  and  color.  The  hunters  came 
out,  and  each  securing  those  that  belonged  to  him,  examined 
their  condition,  and  tied  them  fast  by  long  cords  to  stakes 
driven  in  front  of  his  lodge.  It  was  hali"  an  hour  before  the 
bustle  subsided  and  tranquillity  was  restored  again.  By  this 
time  it  was  nearly  dark.  Kettles  were  hung  over  the  blazing 
fires,  around  which  the  squaws  were  gathered  witli  their  chil- 
dren, laughing  and  talking  merrily.  A  circle  of  a  different 
kind  was  formed  in  the  center  of  the  village.  This  was  com- 
posed of  the  old  men  and  warriors  of  repute,  who  with  their 
white  buffalo  robes  drawn  close  around  their  shoulders,  sat 
together,  and  as  the  pipe  passed  from  hand  to  hand,  their  con- 
versation had  not  a  particle  of  the  gravity  and  reserve  usually 
ascribed  to  Indians.  I  sat  down  with  them  as  usual.  I  had 
in  my  hand  half  a  dozen  squibs  and  serpents,  which  I  had 
made  one  day  when  encamped  upon  Laramie  Creek,  out  of 
gunpowder  and  charcoal,  and  the  leaves  of  "  Fremont's  Expedi- 
tion," rolled  round  a  stout  lead  pencil.     I  waited  till  I  con- 


rUK  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  181 

trived  to  get  hold  of  the  large  piece  of  burning  hois  de  vache 
which  the  Indians  kept  by  them  on  the  ground  for  lighting 
their  pipes.  With  this  I  lighted  all  the  fireworks  at  once,  and 
tossed  them  whizzing  and  sputtering  into  the  air,  over  the 
heads  of  tlie  company.  They  all  jumped  up  and  ran  off  with 
yelps  of  astonishment  and  consternation.  After  a  moment  or 
two,  they  ventured  to  come  back  one  by  one,  and  some  of  the 
boldest,  picking  up  the  cases  of  burnt  paper  that  were  scat- 
tered about,  examined  them  with  eager  curiosit}'  to  discover 
their  mysterious  secret.  From  that  time  forward  I  enjoyed 
great  repute  as  a  "  fire-medicine." 

The  camp  was  filled  with  the  low  hum  of  cheerful  voices. 
There  were  other  sounds,  however,  of  a  very  different  kind, 
for  from  a  large  lodge,  lighted  up  like  a  gigantic  lantern  by 
the  blazing  fire  within,  came  a  chorus  of  dismal  cries  and 
wailings,  long  drawn  out,  like  the  howling  of  wolves,  and  a 
woman,  almost  naked,  was  crouching  close  outside,  crying 
violently,  and  gashing  her  legs  with  a  knife  till  they  were 
covered  with  blood.  Just  a  year  before,  a  young  man  belong- 
ing to  this  family  had  gone  out  with  a  war  party  and  had 
been  slain  by  the  enemy,  and  his  relatives  were  thus  lament- 
ing his  loss.  Still  other  sounds  might  be  heard  ;  loud  earnest 
cries  often  repeated  from  amid  the  gloom,  at  a  distance  beyond 
the  village.  They  proceeded  from  some  young  men  who,  be- 
ing about  to  set  out  in  a  few  days  on  a  warlike  expedition, 
were  standing  at  the  top  of  a  hill,  calling  on  the  Great  Spirit 
to  aid  them  in  their  enterprise.  While  I  was  listening  Rou- 
leau, with  a  laugh  on  his  careless  face,  called  to  me  and 
directed  my  attention  to  another  quarter.  In  front  of  the 
lodge  where  Weali  Washtay  lived  another  squaw  was  stand- 
ing, angrily  scolding  an  old  yellow  dog,  who  lay  on  the  ground 
witli  his  nose  resting  between  his  paws,  and  his  eyes  turned 
sleepily  up  to  her  face,  as  if  he  were  pretending  to  give  re- 
spectful attention,  but  resolved  to  fall  asleep  as  soon  as  it  was 
all  over. 

"You  ought  to  be  ashamed  of  yourself!"  said  the  old 
woman.  "  I  have  fed  you  well,  and  taken  care  of  you  ever 
since  you  were  small  and  blind,  and  could  only  crawl  about 
and  squeal  a  little,  instead  of  howling  as  you  do  now.  When 
you  grew  old,  I  said  you  were  a  good  dog.  You  were  strong 
and  gentle  when  the  load  was  put  on  yowv  back,  and  you  never 
ran  among  the  feet  of  the  horses  when  we  were  all  traveling 
together  over  the  jiiairie.  But  you  had  a  bad  heart  !  When- 
ever a  rabbit  jumped  out  of  the  buslH'<.  yon  were  always  the 


182  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL, 

first  to  run  after  him  and  lead  away  all  tlie  other  dogs  behind 
you.  You  ought  to  have  known  that  it  was  very  dangerous 
to  act  so.  When  you  had  got  far  out  on  the  prairie,  and  no 
one  was  near  to  help  you,  perhaps  a  wolf  would  jump  out  of 
the  ravine  ;  and  then  what  could  you  do  ?  You  would  cer- 
tainly have  been  killed,  for  no  dog  can  fight  well  with  a  load 
on  his  back.  Only  three  days  ago  you  ran  off  in  that  way, 
and  turned  over  the  bag  of  wooden  pins  with  w^hich  I  used  to 
fasten  up  the  front  of  tlie  lodge.  Look  up  there,  and  you  wnll 
see  that  it  is  all  flapping  open.  And  now  to-night  you  liave 
stolen  a  great  piece  of  fat  meat  which  was  roasting  before  the 
fire  for  my  children.  I  tell  you,  you  have  a  bad  heart,  and 
you  must  die  !  " 

So  saying,  the  squaw  went  into  the  lodge,  and  coming  out 
witli  a  large  stone  mallet,  killed  the  unfortunate  dog  at  one 
blow.  This  speech  is  worthy  of  notice  as  illustrating  a 
curious  characteristic  of  the  Indians  :  the  ascribing  intel- 
ligence and  a  power  of  understanding  speech  to  the  inferior 
animals,  to  whom,  indeed,  according  to  many  of  their  tradi- 
tions, they  are  linked  in  close  affinit}^,  and  they  even  claim 
the  honor  of  a  lineal  descent  from  bears,  wolves,  deer,  or 
tortoises. 

As  it  grew  late,  and  the  crowded  population  began  to  dis- 
appear, I  too  walked  across  the  village  to  the  lodge  of  my 
host,  Kongra-Tonga.  As  I  entered  I  saw  him,  by  the  flicker- 
ing blaze  of  the  fire  in  the  center,  reclining  half  asleep  in  his 
usual  place.  His  couch  was  by  no  means  an  uncomfortable 
one.  It  consisted  of  soft  bufi^alo  robes  laid  together  on  the 
ground,  and  a  pillow  made  of  whitened  deerskin  stuffed  with 
feathers  and  ornamented  with  beads.  At  his  back  was  a 
light  framework  of  poles  and  slender  reeds,  against  which  he 
could  lean  with  ease  when  in  a  sitting  posture  ;  and  at  the 
top  of  it,  just  above  his  head,  his  bow  and  quiver  were  hang- 
ing. His  squaw^,  a  laughing,  broad-faced  woman,  apparently 
had  not  yet  completed  her  domestic  arrangements,  for  she 
was  bustling  about  the  lodge,  pulling  over  the  utensils  and 
the  bales  of  dried  meats  that  were  ranged  carefully  around  it. 
Unhappily,  she  and  her  partner  were  not  the  only  tenants  of 
the  dwelling,  for  half  a  dozen  children  were  scattered  about, 
sleeping  in  every  imaginable  posture.  My  saddle  was  in  its 
place  at  the  head  of  the  lodge  and  a  buffalo  robe  w^as  spread 
on  the  ground  before  it.  Wrapping  myself  in  my  blanket  I 
lay  down,  but  had  I  not  been  extremely  fatigued  the  noise  in 
the  next  lodge  would  have  prevented   my  sleeping.     There 


TH?:  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  183 

was  ti:e  monotonous  thumping  of  the  Indian  drum,  mixed 
with  occasional  sharp  yells,  and  a  chorus  chanted  by  twenty 
voices.  A  grand  scene  of  gambling  was  going  forward  with 
all  the  appropriate  formalities.  The  players  were  staking  on 
the  chance  issue  of  the  game  their  ornaments,  their  horses, 
and  as  the  excitement  rose,  their  garments,  and  even  their 
weapons,  for  desperate  gambling  is  not  confined  to  the  hells 
of  Pari;^  The  men  of  the  plains  and  the  forests  no  less  resort 
to  it  as  a  violent  but  grateful  relief  to  the  tedious  monotony 
of  their  lives,  which  alternate  between  fierce  excitement  and 
listless  inaction.  I  fell  asleep  with  the  dull  notes  of  the  drum 
still  sounding  on  my  ear,  but  these  furious  orgies  lasted  with- 
out intermission  till  daylight.  I  was  soon  awakened  by  one 
of  the  children  crawling  over  me,  while  another  larger  one 
was  tugging  at  my  blanket  and  nestling  himself  in  a  very  dis- 
agreeable proximity.  I  immediately  repelled  these  advances 
by  punchi  igthe  heads  of  these  miniature  savages  with  a  short 
stick  whicli  I  always  kept  by  me  for  the  purpose  ;  and  as 
sleeping  half  the  day  and  eating  much  more  than  is  good  for 
them  makes  them  extremely  restless,  this  operation  usually- 
had  to  be  repeated  four  or  five  times  in  the  course  of 
the  night.  My  host  himself  was  the  author  of  another 
most  formidable  annoyance.  All  these  Indians,  and  he 
among  the  rest,  think  themselves  bound  to  the  constant 
performance  of  certain  acts  as  the  condition  on  which  their 
success  in  life  depends,  whether  in  war,  love,  hunting,  or  any- 
other  employment.  These  "medicines,"  as  they  are  called  in 
that  country,  which  are  usually  communicated  in  dreams,  are 
often  absurd  enough.  Some  Indians  will  strike  the  butt  of 
the  pipe  against  the  ground  every  time  they  smoke  ;  others 
will  insist  that  everything  they  say  shall  be  interpreted  by 
contraries ;  and  Shaw  once  met  an  old  man  who  conceived 
that  all  would  be  lost  unless  he  compelled  every  white  man  he 
met  to  drink  a  bowl  of  cold  water.  My  host  was  particularly 
unfortunate  in  his  allotment.  The  Great  Spirit  had  told  him  in 
a  dream  that  he  must  sing  a  certain  song  in  the  middle  of 
every  night ;  and  regularly  at  about  twelve  o'clock  his  dismal 
monotonous  chanting  would  awaken  me,  and  I  would  see  him 
seated  bolt  upright  on  his  couch,  going  through  his  dolorous 
performance  with  a  most  businesslike  air.  There  were  other 
voices  of  the  night  still  more  inharmonious.  Twice  or  thrice, 
between  sunset  and  dawn,  all  the  dogs  in  the  village,  and 
there  were  hundreds  of  them,  would  bay  and  yelp  in  chorus  ; 
a  most  horrible  clamor,  resembling  no  sound  tnat  I  have  ever 


184  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

heard,  except  perhaps  the  frightful  howling  of  wolves  that 
we  used  sometimes  to  hear  long  afterward  when  descending 
the  Arkansas  on  the  trail  of  General  Kearny's  army.  The 
canine  uproar  is,  if  possible,  more  discordant  than  that  of  the 
wolves.  Heard  at  a  distance,  slowly  rising  on  the  night,  it 
has  a  strange  unearthly  effect,  and  would  fearfully  haunt  the 
dreams  of  a  nervous  man  ;  but  when  you  are  sleeping  in  the 
midst  of  it  the  din  is  outrageous.  One  long  loud  howl  from 
the  next  lodge  perhaps  begins  it,  and  voice  after  voice  takes 
up  tlie  sound  till  it  passes  around  the  whole  circumference  of 
the  village,  and  the  air  is  filled  with  confused  and  discordant 
cries,  at  once  fierce  and  mournful.  It  lasts  but  for  a  moment 
and  tlien  dies  away  into  silence. 

Morning  came,  and  Kongra-Tonga,  mounting  his  horse, 
rode  out  witli  the  hunters.  It  may  not  be  amiss  to  glance  at' 
him  for  an  instant  in  liis  domestic  character  of  husband  and 
father.  Both  he  and  his  squaw,  like  most  other  Indians,  were 
very  fond  of  their  children,  whom  they  indulged  to  excess,  and 
never  punished,  except  in  extreme  cases,  when  they  would 
throw  a  bowl  of  cold  water  over  them.  Their  offspring  be- 
came sufiiciently  undutiful  and  disobedient  under  this  system 
of  education,  which  tends  not  a  little  to  foster  that  wild  idea  of 
liberty  and  utter  intolerance  of  restraint  which  lie  at  the  ver^'- 
foundation  of  the  Indian  character.  It  would  be  hard  to  find 
a  fonder  father  than  Kongra-Tonga.  There  was  one  urchin 
in  particular,  rather  less  than  two  feet  high,  to  whom  he  was 
exceedingly  attached  ;  and  sometimes  spreading  a  buffalo  robe 
in  the  lodge,  he  would  seat  himself  upon  it,  place  his  small  fa- 
vorite upright  before  hiin,  and  chant  in  a  low  tone  some  of  the 
words  used  as  an  accompaniment  to  the  war  dance.  The  little 
fellow,  who  could  just  manage  to  balance  himself  by  stretching 
out  both  arms,  would  lift  his  feet  and  turn  slowly  round  and 
round  in  time  to  his  father's  music,  while  my  host  would  laugh 
with  delight,  and  look  smiling  up  into  my  face  to  see  if  I  were 
admiring  this  precocious  performance  of  his  offspring.  In  his 
capacity  of  husband  he  was  somewhat  less  exemplary.  The 
squaw  who  lived  in  the  lodge  with  him  had  been  his  partner 
for  many  years.  She  took  good  care  of  his  children  and  his 
household  concerns.  He  liked  her  well  enough,  and  as  far  as 
I  could  see,  they  never  quarreled  ;  but  all  his  warmer  affec- 
tions were  reserved  for  younger  and  more  recent  favorites. 
Of  these  he  had  at  present  only  one,  who  lived  in  a  lodge  apart 
from  his  own.  One  day  while  in  his  camp  he  became  dis- 
pleased with  her,  pushed  her  out,  threw  after  her  her  orna- 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL.  185 

ments,  dresses,  and  everything  she  had,  and  told  her  to  go 
home  to  lier  father.  Having  consummated  tliis  summary 
divorce,  for  which  he  could  show  good  reasons,  he  came  back, 
seated  himself  in  his  usual  place,  and  began  to  smoke  with  an 
air  of  the  utmost  tranquillity  and  self-satisfaction. 

I  was  sitting  in  the  lodge  with  him  on  that  very  afternoon, 
when  I  felt  some  curiosity  to  learn  the  history  of  the  numerous 
scars  that  appeared  on  his  naked  body.  Of  some  of  them,  how- 
ever,! did  not  venture  to  inquire,  for  I  already  understood  their 
origin.  Each  of  his  arms  was  marked  as  if  deeply  gashed 
with  a  knife  at  regular  intervals,  and  there  were  other  scars 
also,  of  a  different  character,  on  his  back  and  on  either  breast. 
They  were  the  traces  of  those  formidable  tortures  which  these 
Indians,  in  common  with  a  few  other  tribes,  inflict  upon  them- 
selves at  certain  seasons  ;  in  part,  it  may  be,  to  gain  the  glory 
of  courage  and  endurance,  but  chiefly  as  an  act  of  self-sacrifice 
to  secure  the  favor  of  the  Great  Spirit.  The  scars  upon  the 
breast  and  back  were  produced  by  running  through  the  flesh 
strong  splints  of  wood,  to  which  ponderous  buffalo-skulls  are 
fastened  by  cords  of  hide,  and  the  wretch  runs  forward  with  all 
his  strength,  assisted  by  two  companions,  who  take  hold  of 
each  arm,  until  the  flesh  tears  apart  and  the  heav}^  loads  are  left 
behind.  Others  of  Kongra-Tonga's  scars  were  the  result  of 
accidents;  but  he  had  many  which  he  received  in  war.  He 
was  one  of  the  most  noted  warriors  in  the  village.  In  the 
course  of  his  life  he  had  slain,  as  he  boasted  to  me,  fourteen 
men  ;  and  though,  like  other  Indians,  he  was  a  great  braggart 
and  utterly  regardless  of  truth,  yet  in  this  statement  common 
report  bore  him  out.  Being  much  flattered  by  ni}^  inquiries,  he 
told  me  tale  after  tale,  true  or  false,  of  his  warlike  exploits; 
and  there  was  one  among  the  rest  illustrating  the  worst  features 
of  the  Indian  character  too  well  for  me  to  omit  it.  Pointing 
out  of  the  opening  of  the  lodge  toward  the  Medicine-Bow  Moun- 
tain, not  many  miles  distant,  he  said  that  he  was  there  a  few 
summers  ago  with  a  war  party  of  his  young  men.  Here  they 
found  two  Snake  Indians,  hunting.  They  shot  one  of  them 
with  arrows  and  chased  the  other  up  the  side  of  the  mountain 
till  the)^  surrounded  him  on  a  level  place,  and  Kongra-Tonga 
himself,  jumping  forward  among  the  trees,  seized  him  b}'  the 
arm.  Two  of  his  young  men  then  ran  up  and  held  him  fast 
while  he  scalped  him  alive.  They  then  built  a  great  fire,  and 
cutting  the  tendons  of  their  captive's  wrists  and  feet,  threw  him 
in,  and  held  him  down  with  long  poles  until  he  was  burnt  to 
deatli.     He  garnislied  his  story  with  a  great  man}- descriptive 


186  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

particulars  much  too  revolting  to  mention.  His  features  were 
remarkably  mild  and  open,  without  the  fierceness  of  expression 
common  among  these  Indians  ;  and  as  he  detailed  these  devilish 
cruelties,  he  looked  up  into  my  face  with  the  same  air  of  ear- 
nest simplicit}^  which  a  little  child  would  w^ear  in  relating  to 
its  mother  some  anecdote  of  its  youthful  experience. 

Old  Mene-Seela's  lodge  could  offer  another  illustration  of 
the  ferocity  of  Indian  warfare.  A  bright-eyed,  active  little 
boy  was  living  there.  He  had  belonged  to  a  village  of  the 
Gros- Ventre  Blackfeet,  a  small  but  blood^^  and  treacherous 
band,  in  close  alliance  with  the  Arapahoes.  About  a  year 
before,  Kongra-Tonga  and  a  party  of  warriors  had  found  about 
twenty  lodges  of  these  Indians  upon  the  plains  a  little  to  tlie 
eastward  of  our  present  camp  ;  and  surrounding  them  in  the 
night,  they  butchered  men,  women,  and  children  without  mercj^, 
preserving  only  this  little  boy  alive.  He  was  adopted  into  the 
old  man's  family,  and  was  now  fast  becoming  identified  with 
the  Ogallalla  children,  among  whom  he  mingled  on  equal 
terms.  There  was  also  a  Crow  warrior  in  the  village,  a 
man  of  gigantic  stature  and  most  symmetrical  proportions. 
Having  been  taken  prisoner  many  years  before  and  adopted 
by  a  squaw  in  place  of  a  son  whom  she  had  lost,  he  had  for- 
gotten his  old  national  antipathies,  and  was  now  both  in  act 
and  inclination  an  Ogallalla. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  the  scheme  of  the  grand  warlike 
combination  against  the  Snake  and  Crow  Indians  originated  in 
this  village  ;  and  though  this  plan  had  fallen  to  the  ground, 
the  embers  of  the  martial  ardor  continued  to  glow  brightly. 
Eleven  3'oung  men  had  prepared  themselves  to  go  out  against 
the  enemy.  The  fourth  day  of  our  stay  in  this  camp  was  fixed 
upon  for  their  departure.  At  the  head  of  this  party  was  a 
well-built  active  little  Indian,  called  the  White  Shield,  whom  I 
had  always  noticed  for  the  great  neatness  of  his  dress  and 
appearance.  His  lodge  too,  though  not  a  large  one,  was  the 
best  in  the  village,  his  squaw  was  one  of  the  prettiest  girls, 
and  altogether  his  dwelling  presented  a  complete  model  of  an 
Ogallalla  domestic  establishment.  I  was  often  a  visitor  there, 
for  the  White  Shield  being  rather  partial  to  white  men,  used 
to  invite  me  to  continual  feasts  at  all  hours  of  the  day.  Once 
when  the  substantial  part  of  the  entertainment  was  concluded, 
and  he  and  I  were  seated  cross-legged  on  a  buffalo  robe  smok- 
ing together  very  amicably,  he  took  down  his  warlike  equip- 
ments, which  were  hanging  around  the  lodge,  and  displayed 
them  with  great  pride  and  self-importance.     Among  the  rest 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  187 

was  a  most  superb  headdress  of  feathers.  Taking  this  from  its 
case,  he  put  it  on  and  stood  before  me,  as  if  conscious  of  the 
gallant  air  which  it  gave  to  his  dark  face  and  his  vigorous, 
graceful  figure.  He  told  me  that  upon  it  were  the  feathers  of 
three  war-eagles,  equal  in  value  to  the  same  number  of  good 
horses.  He  took  up  also  a  shield  gayly  painted  and  hung  with 
feathers.  The  eifect  of  these  barbaric  ornaments  was  admir- 
able, for  they  were  arranged  with  no  little  skill  and  taste.  His 
quiver  was  made  of  the  spotted  skin  of  a  small  panther,  such 
as  are  common  among  the  Black  Hills,  from  which  the  tail 
and  distended  claws  were  still  allowed  to  hang.  The  White 
Shield  conchided  his  cijtertainment  in  a  manner  character- 
istic of  an  Indian.  He  begged  of  me  a  little  powder  and 
ball,  for  he  had  a  gun  as  well  as  bow  and  arrows  ;  but 
this  I  was  obliged  to  refuse,  because  I  had  scarcely  enough 
for  my  own  use.  Making  him,  however,  a  parting  present 
of  a  paper  of  vermilion,  I  left  him  apparently  quite  con- 
tented. 

Unhappily  on  the  next  morning  the  White  Shield  took  cold 
and  was  attacked  with  a  violent  inflammation  of  the  throat. 
Immediately  he  seemed  to  lose  all  spirit,  and  though  before  no 
warrior  in  the  village  had  borne  himself  more  proudly,  he  now 
moped  about  from  lodge  to  lodge  with  a  forlorn  and  dejected 
air.  At  length  he  came  and  sat  down,  close  wrapped  in  his 
robe,  before  the  lodge  of  Reynal,  but  when  he  found  that 
neither  he  nor  I  knew  how  to  relieve  him,  he  arose  and  stalked 
over  to  one  of  the  medicine-men  of  the  village.  This  old  im- 
postor thumped  him  for  some  time  with  both  fists,  howled  and 
yelped  over  him,  and  beat  a  drum  close  to  his  ear  to  expel  the 
evil  spirit  that  had  taken  ])ossession  of  him.  This  vigorous 
treatment  failing  of  the  desired  effect,  the  White  Shield  with- 
drew to  his  own  lodge,  where  he  laj^  disconsolate  for  some 
hours.  Making  his  api)earance  once  more  in  the  afternoon,  he 
again  took  his  seat  on  the  ground  before  Reynars  lodge,  hold- 
ing his  throat  witli  his  hand.  For  some  time  he  sat  perfectly 
silent  with  his  eyes  fixed  mournfully  on  the  ground.  At  last 
he  began  to  speak  in  a  low  tone  : 

"I  am  a  brave  man,"  he  said;  "all  the  young  men  think 
me  a  great  warrior,  and  ten  of  them  are  read}^  to  go  with  me 
to  the  war.  I  will  go  and  show  them  the  enemy.  Last  sum- 
mer the  Snakes  killed  my  brother.  1  cannot  live  unless  I  re- 
venge his  death.  To-morrow  we  will  set  out  and  1  will  take 
their  scalps." 

The  White  Shield,  as  he  expressed  this  resolution,  seemed 


188  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

to  have  lost  all  the  accustomed  fire  and  spirit  of  his  look,  and 
hung  .his  liead  as  if  in  a  tit  of  despondenc^^ 

As  I  was  sitting  that  evening  at  one  of  the  fires,  I  saw  him 
arrayed  in  his  splendid  war  dress,  his  cheeks  painted  with 
vermilion,  leading  his  favorite  war  horse  to  the  front  of  his 
lodge.  He  mounted  and  rode  round  the  village,  singing  his 
war  song  in  a  loud  hoarse  voice  amid  the  shrill  acclamations  of 
the  women.  Then  dismounting,  he  remained  for  some  minutes 
prostrate  upon  the  ground,  as  if  in  an  act  of  supplication.  On 
the  following  morning  I  looked  in  vain  for  the  departure  of  the 
warriors.  All  was  quiet  in  the  village  until  late  in  the  fore- 
noon, when  the  White  Shield,  issuing  from  his  lodge,  came  and 
seated  himself  in  his  old  place  before  us.  Reynal  asked  him 
why  he  had  not  gone  out  to  find  the  enemy. 

*'  I  cannot  go,"  answered  the  White  Shield  in  a  dejected 
voice.     "  I  have  given  my  war  arrows, to  the  Meneaska." 

"  You  have  only  given  him  two  of  jonv  arrqws,"  said  Rey- 
nal.    "  If  you  ask  him,  he  will  give  them  back  again." 

For  some  time  the  White  Shield  said  nothing.  At  last  he 
spoke  in  a  gloomy  tone  : 

"  One  of  my  young  men  has  had  bad  dreams.  The  spirits 
of  the  dead  came  and  threw  stones  at  him  in  his  sleep." 

If  such  a  dream  had  actually  taken  place  it  might  have 
broken  up  this  or  any  other  war  part}^  but  both  Reynal  and 
I  were  convinced  at  the  time  that  it  was  a  mere  fabrication  to 
excuse  his  remaining  at  home. 

The  White  Shield  was  a  warrior  of  noted  prowess.  Very 
probably,  he  would  have  received  a  mortal  wound  without  the 
show  of  pain,  and  endured  without  flinching  the  worst  tortures 
that  an  enemj^  could  inflict  upon  him.  Tiie  whole  power  of 
an  Indian's  nature  would  be  summoned  to  encounter  such  a 
trial ;  every  influence  of  his  education  from  childhood  would 
have  prepared  him  for  it ;  the  cause  of  his  suifering  would 
have  been  visibly  and  palpably  before  him,  and  his  spirit 
Avould  rise  to  set  his  enemy  at  defiance,  and  gain  the  highest 
glory  of  a  warrior  by  meeting  death  with  fortitude.  But  when 
he  feels  himself  attacked  by  a  mysterious  evil,  before  whose 
insidious  assaults  his  manhood  is  wasted,  and  his  strength 
drained  away,  when  he  can  see  no  enemy  to  resist  and  defy, 
the  boldest  warrior  falls  prostrate  at  once.  He  believes  that 
a  bad  spirit  has  taken  possession  of  him,  or  that  he  is  the  vic- 
tim of  some  charm.  When  suffering  from  a  protracted  dis- 
order, an  Indian  will  often  abandon  himself  to  his  supposed 
destiny,  pine  away  and  die,  the  victim  of  his  own  imagination. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  18d 

The  same  effect  will  ot'len  follow  from  a  series  of  calamities, 
or  a  long  run  of  ill  success,  and  the  sufferer  has  been  known  to 
ride  into  tlie  midst  of  an  enemy's  camp,  or  attack  a  grizzl}^ 
bear  single-handed,  to  get  rid  of  a  life  which  he  supposed  to 
lie  under  the  doom  of  misfortune. 

Thus  after  all  his  fasting,  dreaming,  and  calling  upon  the 
Great  Spirit,  the  White  Shield's  war  party  was  pitifully 
broken  up. 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

THE  TRAPPERS. 

Ours  the  wild  life,  in  tumult  still  to  range, 
From  toil  to  rest,  and  joy  in  every  change  ; 
The  exulting  sense,  the  pulse's  maddening  play, 
That  thrills  the  wanderer  of  the  trackless  way  ; 
That  for  itself  can  woo  the  approaching  fight, 
And  turn  what  some  deem  danger  to  delight ; 
Come  when  it  will  we  snatch  the  life  of  life  ; 
When  lost,  what  recks  it  by  disease  or  strife. 

The  Corsair. 

In  speaking  of  the  Indians,  I  have  almost  forgotten  two 
bold  adventurers  of  another  race,  the  trappers  Rouleau  and 
Saraphin.  These  men  were  bent  on  a  most  hazardous  enter- 
prise. A  day's  journey  to  the  westward  was  the  country  over 
which  the  Arapahoes  are  accustomed  to  range,  and  for  which 
the  two  trappers  were  on  the  point  of  setting  out.  These 
Arapahoes,  of  whom  Shaw  and  I  afterward  fell  in  with  a 
large  village,  are  ferocious  barbarians,  of  a  most  brutal  and 
wolfish  aspect  ;  and  of  late  they  had  declared  themselves 
enemies  to  the  whites,  and  threatened  death  to  the  first  who 
should  venture  within  their  territory.  The  occasion  of  the 
declaration  was  as  follows.: 

In  the  previous  spring,  1845,  Colonel  Kearny  left  Fort 
Leavenworth  with  several  companies  of  dragoons,  and  march- 
ing with  extraordinary  celerity  reached  Fort  Laramie,  whence 
he  passed  along  the  foot  of  the  mountains  to  Bent's  Fort  and 
then,  turning  eastward  again,  returned  to  the  point  from 
whence  he  set  out.  While  at  Fort  Laramie,  he  sent  a  jiart  of 
his  command  as  far  westward  as  Sweetwater,  while  he  himself 
remained  at  the  fort,  and  dispatched  messages  to  the  surround- 
ing Indians  to  meet  him  there  in  council.  Then  for  the  first 
time  the  tribes  of  that  vicinity  saw  the  white  warriors,  and,  as 
might  have  been  expected,  they  were  lost  in  astonishment  at 
their  regular  order,  their  gay  attire,  the  completeness  of  their 


190  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

martial  equipment,  and  the  great  size  and  power  of  their  horses. 
Among  the  rest,  the  Arapahoes  came  in  considerable  numbers 
to  the  fort.  They  had  lately  committed  numerous  acts  of  out- 
rage, and  Colonel  Kearny  threatened  that  if  they  killed  any 
more  white  men  he  would  turn  loose  his  dragoons  upon  them, 
and  annihilate  their  whole  nation.  In  the  evening,  to  add 
effect  to  his  speech,  he  ordered  a  howitzer  to  be  fired  and  a 
rocket  to  be  thrown  up.  Many  of  the  Arapahoes  fell  prostrate 
on  the  ground,  while  others  ran  away  screaming  with  amaze- 
ment and  terror.  On  the  following  day  they  withdrew  to 
their  mountains,  confounded  with  awe  at  tlie  appearance  of  the 
dragoons,  at  their  big  gun  which  went  off  twice  at  one  shot, 
and  the  fiery  messenger  which  they  had  sent  up  to  the  Great 
Spirit.  For  many  months  they  remained  quiet,  and  did  no 
farther  miscliief.  At  length,  just  before  we  came  into  the 
country,  one  of  them,  by  an  act  of  the  basest  treachery,  killed 
two  white  men.  Boot  and  May,  who  were  trapping  among  the 
mountains.  For  this  act  it  was  impossible  to  discover  a  motive. 
It  seemed  to  spring  from  one  of  those  inexplicable  impulses 
which  often  actuate  Indians  and  appear  no  better  than  the 
mere  outbrea^ks  of  native  ferocity.  No  sooner  was  the  murder 
committed  than  the  whole  tribe  were  in  extreme  consternation. 
They  expected  every  day  that  the  avenging  dragoons  would 
arrive,  little  thinking  that  a  desert  of  nine  hundred  miles  in 
extent  lay  between  the  latter  and  their  mountain  fastnesses. 
A  large  deputation  of  them  came  to  Fort  Laramie,  bringing  a 
valuable  present  of  horses,  in  compensation  for  the  lives  of  the 
murdered  men.  These  Bordeaux  refused  to  accept.  They 
then  asked  him  if  he  would  be  satisfied  with  their  delivering 
up  the  murderer  himself  ;  but  he  declined  this  offer  also.  The 
Arapahoes  went  back  more  terrified  than  ever.  Weeks  passed 
away,  and  still  no  dragoons  appeared.  A  result  followed  which 
all  those  best  acquainted  with  Indians  had  predicted.  They 
conceived  that  fear  had  prevented  Bordeaux  from  accepting 
their  gifts,  and  that  they  had  nothing  to  apprehend  from  the 
vengeance  of  the  wliites.  From  terror  they  rose  to  the  height 
of  insolence  and  presumption.  They  called  the  white  men 
cowards  and  old  women  ;  and  a  friendl}^  Dakota  came  to 
Fort  Laramie  and  reported  that  they  were  determined  to  kill 
the  first  of  the  white  dogs  whom  they  could  lay  hands  on. 

Had  a  military  ofiicer,  intrusted  with  suitable  powers,  been 
stationed  at  Fort  Laramie,  and  having  accepted  the  offer  of 
the  Arapahoes  to  deliver  up  the  murderer,  had  ordered  him  to 
be  immediately  led  out  and  shot,  in  presence  of  his  tribe,  they 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  101 

would  have  been  awed  into  tranquillity,  and  much  danger 
and  calamity  averted  ;  but  now  the  neighborhood  of  the 
Medicine-Bow  Mountain  and  the  region  beyond  it  was  a  scene 
of  extreme  peril.  Old  Mene-Seela,  a  true  friend  of  the 
whites,  and  many  other  of  the  Indians  gathered  about  the 
two  trappers,  and  vainly  endeavored  to  turn  them  from  their 
purpose  ;  but  Rouleau  and  Saraphin  only  laughed  at  the 
danger.  On  the  morning  preceding  that  on  which  they  were 
to  leave  the  camp,  we  could  all  discern  faint  white  columns 
of  smoke  rising  against  the  dark  base  of  the  Medicine  Bow. 
Scouts  were  out  immediately,  and  reported  that  these  pro- 
ceeded from  an  Arapahoe  camp,  abandoned  only  a  few  hours 
before.  Still  the  two  trappers  continued  their  preparations 
for  departure. 

Saraphin  was  a  tall,  powerful  fellow,  with  a  sullen  and 
sinister  countenance.  His  rifle  had  very  probably  drawn 
other  blood  than  that  of  buffalo  or  even  Indians.  Rouleau 
had  a  broad  ruddy  face,  marked  with  as  few  traces  of  thought 
or  of  care  as  a  child's.  His  figure  was  remarkably  square 
and  strong,  but  the  first  joints  of  both  his  feet  ^vere  frozen 
off,  and  his  horse  had  lately  thrown  and  trampled  upon  him, 
by  which  he  had  been  severely  injured  in  the  chest.  But 
nothing  could  check  his  inveterate  propensity  for  laughter 
and  gayety.  He  went  all  day  rolling  about  the  camp  on  his 
stumps  of  feet,  talking  and  singing  and  frolicking  with  the 
Indian  women,  as  they  were  engaged  at  their  work.  In  fact 
Rouleau  had  an  unlucky  partiality  for  squaws.  He  always 
had  one  whom  he  must  needs  bedizen  with  beads,  ribbons, 
and  all  the  finery  of  an  Indian  wardrobe  ;  and  though  he  was 
of  couise  obliged  to  leave  her  behind  him  during  his  expedi- 
ditions,  yet  this  hazardous  necessity  did  not  at  all  trouble 
him,  for  his  disposition  was  the  very  reverse  of  jealous.  If 
at  any  time  he  had  not  lavished  the  whole  of  the  precarious 
profits  of  his  vocation  upon  his  dark  favorite,  he  always  de- 
voted the  rest  to  feasting  his  comrades.  If  liquor  was  not  to 
be  had — and  this  was  usually  the  case — strong  coffee  was 
substituted.  As  the  men  of  that  region  are  by  no  means 
remarkable  for  providence  or  self-restraint,  whatever  was  set 
before  them  on  these  occasions,  however  extravagant  in  price, 
or  enormous  in  quantity,  was  sure  to  be  disposed  of  at  one 
sitting.  Like  other  trappers.  Rouleau's  life  was  one  of  con- 
trast and  variety.  It  was  only  at  certain  seasons,  and  for  a 
limited  time,  that  he  was  absent  on  his  ex]»editions.  For  the 
rest  of  the   year  he  would    be  lounging  about  the    fort,  or 


10 J  THE  CALIFOUNIA  AJSt)  OMEGON  TRAIL 

encamped  with  liis  friends  in  its  vicinity,  lazily  hunting  or 
enjoying  all  the  luxury  of  inaction  ;  but  when  once  in  pur- 
suit of  the  beaver,  he  was  involved  in  extreme  privations  and 
desperate  perils.  When  in  the  midst  of  his  game  and  his 
enemies,  hand  and  foot,  eye  and  ear,  are  incessantly^  active. 
Frequently  he  must  content  himself  with  devouring  his  even- 
ing meal  uncooked,  lest  the  light  of  his  fire  should  attract  the 
eyes  of  some  wandering  Indian  ;  and  sometimes  liaving  made 
his  rude  repast,  he  must  leave  his  fire  still  blazing,  and  with- 
draw to  a  distance  under  cover  of  the  darkness,  that  his  dis- 
appointed enemy,  drawn  thither  by  the  light,  may  find  his 
victim  gone,  and  be  unable  to  trace  his  footsteps  in  the  gloom. 
This  is  the  life  led  by  scores  of  men  in  the  Rocky  Mountains 
and  their  vicinity.  I  once  met  a  trapper  whose  breast  was 
marked  with  the  scars  of  six  bullets  and  arrows,  one  of  his 
arms  broken  by  a  shot  and  one  of  his  knees  shattered  ;  yet 
still,  with  the  undaunted  mettle  of  New  England,  from  whicli 
part  of  the  country  he  had  come,  he  continued  to  follow  his 
perilous  occupation.  To  some  of  the  children  of  cities  it  may 
seem  strange  that  men  with  no  object  in  view  should  con- 
tinue to  follow  a  life  of  such  hardship  and  desperate  adven- 
ture ;  3^et  there  is  a  mj^sterious,  restless  charm  in  the  basilisk 
eye  of  danger,  and  few  men  perhaps  remain  long  in  that  wild 
region  without  learning  to  love  peril  for  its  own  sake,  and  to 
laugh  carelessly  in  the  face  of  death. 

On  the  last  day  of  our  stay  in  this  camp,  the  trappers  were 
ready  for  departure.  When  in  the  Black  Hills  they  had 
caught  seven  beaver,  and  they  now  left  their  skins  in  charge  of 
Reynal,  to  be  kept  until  their  return.  Their  strong,  gaunt 
horses  were  equipped  Avith  rusty  Spanish  bits  and  rude  Mexi- 
can saddles,  to  which  wooden  stirrups  were  attached,  while  a 
buffalo  robe  was  rolled  up  behind  them,  and  a  bundle  of  beaver 
traps  slung  at  the  pommel. .  These,  together  with  their  rifles, 
their  knives,  their  powder-horns  and  bullet-pouches,  flint  and 
steel  and  a  tin  cup,  composed  their  whole  traveling  equipment. 
They  shook  hands  with  us  and  rode  awaj^  ;  Saraphin  with 
his  grim  countenance,  like  a  surly  bulldog's,  was  in  advance  ; 
but  Rouleau,  clambering  gayly  into  his  seat,  kicked  his  horse's 
sides,  flourished  his  whip  in  the  air,  and  trotted  briskly  over 
the  prairie,  trolling  forth  a  Canadian  song  at  the  top  of  his 
lungs.  Reynal  looked  after  them  with  his  face  of  brutal 
selfishness. 

"  Well,"lie  said,  "if  they  are  killed,!  shall  have  the  beaver. 
They'll  fetch  me  fifty  dollars  at  the  fort,  anyhow." 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  193 

This  was  the  last  I  saw  of  them. 

Wo  had  been  for  five  days  in  the  hiinting-camp,  and  the 
meat,  which  all  this  time  liad  hung  drying  in  the  sun,  was  now 
fit  for  transportation.  Buffalo  hides  also  had  been  procured 
in  sufiicient  quantities  for  making  the  next  season's  lodges  ; 
but  it  remained  to  provide  the  long  slender  poles  on  which 
they  were  to  be  supported.  These  were  only  to  be  had  among 
the  tall  pine  woods  of  the  Black  Hills,  and  in  that  direction 
therefore  our  next  move  was  to  be  made.  It  is  worthy  of 
notice  that  amid  the  general  abundance  which  during  this 
time  had  prevailed  in  the  camp  there  were  no  instances  of 
individual  privation  ;  for  although  the  hide  and  the  tongue  of 
the  buffalo  belong  by  exclusive  right  to  the  hunter  who  has 
killed  it,  yet  anyone  else  is  equally  entitled  to  help  himself 
from  the  rest  of  the  carcass.  Thus,  the  weak,  the  aged,  and 
even  the  indolent  come  in  for  a  share  of  the  spoils,  and  many 
a  helpless  old  woman,  who  would  otherwise  perish  from  star- 
vation, is  sustained  in  profuse  abundance. 

On  the  25th  of  July,  late  in  the  afternoon,  the  camp  broke 
up,  with  the  usual  tumult  and  confusion,  and  we  were  all 
moving  once  more,  on  horseback  and  on  foot,  over  the  plains. 
We  advanced,  however,  but  a  few  miles.  Tlie  old  men,  who 
during  the  whole  march  had  been  stoutly  striding  along  on 
foot  in  front  of  the  people,  now  seated  themselves  in  a  circle 
on  the  ground,  while  all  the  families,  erecting  their  lodges  in 
the  prescribed  order  around  them,  formed  the  usual  great 
circle  of  the  camp  ;  meanwhile  these  village  patriarchs  sat 
smoking  and  talking.  I  threw  my  bridle  to  Raymond,  and 
sat  down  as  usual  along  with  them.  There  was  none  of  that 
reserve  and  apparent  dignity  which  an  Indian  always  assumes 
when  in  council,  or  in  the  presence  of  white  men  whom  he  dis- 
trusts. The  party,  on  the  contrary,  was  an  extremely  merry 
one,  and  as  in  a  social  circle  of  a  quite  different  character,  "  if 
there  was  not  much  wit,  there  was  at  least  a  great  deal  of 
laughter.'* 

When  the  first  pipe  was  smoked  out,  I  rose  and  withdrew  to 
the  lodge  of  my  host.  Here  I  was  stooping,  in  the  act  of 
taking  off  my  powder-horn  and  bullet-pouch,  when  suddenh% 
and  close  at  hand,  pealing  loud  and  shrill,  and  in  right  good 
earnest,  came  the  terrific  yell  of  the  war  whoop.  Kongra- 
Tonga's  squaw  snatched  up  her  3'oungest  child,  and  ran  out  of 
the  lodge.  I  followed,  and  found  the  whole  village  in  con- 
fusion, resounding  with  cries  and  yells.  The  circle  of  old  men 
in  the  center  had  vanished.     The  warriors  with  glittering  eyes 


194  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OBEOON  TRAIL. 

came  darting,  their  weapons  in  their  hands,  out  of  the  low- 
openings  of  the  lodges,  and  running  with  wild  yells  toward 
the  farther  end  of  the  village.  Advancing  a  few  rods  in  that 
direction,  I  saw  a  crowd  in  furious  agitation,  while  others  ran 
up  on  every  side  to  add  to  the  confusion.  Just  then  I  distin- 
guished the  voices  of  Raymond  and  Reynal,  shouting  to  me 
from  a  distance,  and  looking  back,  I  saw  the  latter  with  his 
rifle  in  his  hand,  standing  on  the  farther  bank  of  a  little  stream 
that  ran  along  the  outskirts  of  the  camp.  He  was  calling  to 
Raymond  and  myself  to  come  over  and  join  him,  and  Ray- 
mond, with  his  usual  deliberate  gait  and  stolid  countenance, 
was  already  moving  in  that  direction. 

This  was  clearly  the  wisest  course,  unless  we  wished  to 
involve  ourselves  in  the  fray  ;  so  I  turned  to  go,  but  just  then 
a  pair  of  eyes,  gleaming  like  a  snake's,  and  an  aged  familiar 
countenance  was  thrust  from  the  opening  of  a  neighboring 
lodge,  and  out  bolted  old  Mene-Seela,  full  of  fight,  clutching 
his  bow  and  arrows  in  one  hand  and  his  knife  in  the  other. 
At  that  instant  he  tripped  and  fell  sprawling  on  his  face,  while 
his  weapons  flew  scattering  away  in  every  direction.  The 
women  with  loud  screams  Wi3re  hurrying  with  their  children 
in  their  arms  to  place  them  out  of  danger,  and  I  'observed 
some  hastening  to  prevent  mischief,  by  carrying  awaj^  all  the 
weapons  they  could  lay  hands  on.  On  a  rising  ground  close 
to  the  camp  stood  a  line  of  old  women  singing  a  medicine 
song  to  allay  the  tumult.  As  I  approached  the  side  of  the 
brook  I  heard  gun-shots  behind  me,  and  turning  back,  I  saw 
that  the  crowd  had  separated  into  two  long  lines  of  naked 
warriors  confronting  each  other  at  a  respectful  distance,  and 
yelling  and  jumping  about  to  dodge  the  shot  of  their  adver- 
saries, while  they  discharged  bullets  and  arrows  against  each 
other.  At  the  same  time  certain  sharp,  humming  sounds  in 
the  air  over  my  head,  like  the  flight  of  beetles  on  a  summer 
evening,  warned  me  that  the  danger  was  not  wholly  confined 
to  the  immediate  scene  of  the  fray.  So  wading  through  the 
brook,  I  joined  Reynal  and  Raymond,  and  we  sat  down  on  the 
grass,  in  the  posture  of  an  armed  neutrality,  to  watch  the  result. 

Happily  it  may  be  for  ourselves,  though  quite  contrary  to 
our  expectation,  the  disturbance  was  quelled  almost  as  soon 
as  it  had  commenced.  When  I  looked  again,  the  combatants 
were  once  more  mingled  together  in  a  mass.  Though  yells 
sounded  occasional!}^  from  the  throng,  the  firing  had  entirely 
ceased,  and  I  observed  five  or  six  persons  moving  busilj'^  about, 
as  if  acting  the  part  of  peacemakers.     One  of  the  village  her- 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  195 

aids  or  criers  proclaimed  in  a  loud  voice  something  \\  liicli  my 
two  companions  were  too  mucli  engrossed  in  tlieir  own  obser- 
vations to  translate  for  me.  The  crowd  began  to  disperse, 
though  many  a  deep-set  black  eye  still  glittered  with  an 
unnatural  luster,  as  the  warriors  slowly  withdrew  to  their 
lodges.  This  fortunate  suppression  of  the  disturbance  was 
owing  to  a  few  of  the  old  men,  less  pugnacious  than  Mene- 
Seela,  who  boldly  ran  in  between  the  combatants,  and  aided 
by  some  of  the  "soldiers,"  or  Indian  police,  succeeded  in 
effecting  their  object. 

It  seemed  very  strange  to  me  that  although  many  arrows 
and  bullets  were  discharged,  no  one  was  niojtally  hurt,  and  I 
could  only  account  for  this  by  the  fact  that  both  the  marks- 
man and  the  object  of  his  aim  were  leaping  about  incessantly 
during  the  whole  time.  By  far  the  greater  part  of  the  vil- 
lagers had  joined  in  the  fraj^,  for  although  there  were  not 
more  than  a  dozen  guns  in  the  whole  camp,  I  heard  at  least 
eight  or  ten  shots  fired. 

In  a  quarter  of  an  hour  all  was  comparatively'  quiet.  A 
large  circle  of  warriors  were  again  seated  in  the  center  of  the 
village,  but  this  time  I  did  not  venture  to  join  them,  because 
I  could  see  that  the  pipe,  contrary  to  the  usual  order,  was 
passing  from  the  left  hand  to  tlie  right  around  the  circle  ;  a 
sure  sign  that  a  "medicine-smoke"  of  reconciliation  was 
going  forward,  and  that  a  white  man  would  be  an  unwelcome 
intruder.  When  I  again  entered  the  still  agitated  camp  it 
was  nearly  dark,  and  mournful  cries,  howls,  and  wailings 
resounded  from  many  female  voices.  Whether  these  had 
any  connection  with  the  late  disturbance,  or  were  merely 
lamentations  for  relatives  slain  in  some  former  war  expedi- 
tions, I  could  not  distinctly  ascertain. 

To  inquire  too  closely  into  the  cause  of  the  quarrel  was  by 
no  means  prudent,  and  it  was  not  until  some  tiwe  after  that 
I  discovered  what  had  given  rise  to  it.  Among  the  Dakota 
there  are  many  associations,  or  fraternities,  connected  with 
the  purposes  of  their  superstitions,  their  warfare,  or  their 
social  life.  There  was  OJie  called  "  The  Arrow-Breakers," 
now  in  a  great  measure  disbanded  and  dispersed.  In  the 
village  there  were,  however,  four  men  belonging  to  it,  distin- 
guished by  the  peculiar  arrangement  of  their  hair,  which  rose 
in  a  high  bristling  mass  above  their  foreheads,  adding  greatly 
to  their  apparent  height,  and  giving  them  a  most  ferocious 
appeara!ice.  The  principal  among  them  was  tiie  Mad  Wolf, 
a  warrior  of  remarkable  size  and  strength,  great  courage,  and 


196  TBE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

the  fierceness  of  a  demon.  I  had  always  looked  upon  him  as 
the  most  dangerous  man  in  the  village  ;  and  though  he  often 
invited  me  to  feasts,  I  never  entered  his  lodge  unarmed. 
The  Mad  Wolf  had  taken  a  fancy  to  a  fine  horse  belonging 
to  another  Indian,  who  was  called  the  Tall  Bear  ;  and  anxious 
to  get  the  animal  into  his  possession,  he  made  the  owner  a 
present  of  another  horse  nearly  equal  in  value.  According  to 
the  customs  of  the  Dakota,  tjie  acceptance  of  this  gift  in- 
volved a  sort  of  obligation  to  make  an  equitable  return  ;  and 
the  Tall  Bear  well  understood  that  the  other  had  in  view  the 
obtaining  of  his  favorite  buffalo  horse.  He  howeveraccepted 
the  present  without  a  word  of  thanks,  and  having  picketed 
the  horse  before  his  lodge,  he  suffered  day  after  day  to  pass 
without  making  the  expected  return.  The  Mad  Wolf  grew 
impatient  and  angry  ;  and  at  last,  seeing  that  his  bounty  was 
not  likely  to  produce  the  desired  return,  he  resolved  to  reclaim 
it.  So  this  evening,  as  soon  as  the  village  was  encamped,  he 
went  to  the  lodge  of  the  Tall  Bear,  seized  upon  the  horse  that 
he  had  given  him,  and  led  him  away.  At  this  the  Tall  Bear 
broke  into  one  of  those  fits  of  sullen  rage  not  uncommon 
among  the  Indians.  He  ran  up  to  the  unfortunate  horse,  and 
gave  him  three  mortal  stabs  with  his  knife.  Quick  as  light- 
ning the  Mad  Wolf  drew  his  bow  to  its  utmost  tension,  and 
lield  tlie  arrow  quivering  close  to  the  breast  of  his  adversary. 
The  Tall  Bear,  as  the  Indians  who  were  near  him  said,  stood 
with  his  bloody  knife  in  his  hand,  facing  the  assailant  with  the 
utmost  calmness.  Some  of  his  friends  and  relatives,  seeing 
his  danger,  ran  hastily  to  his  assistance.  The  remaining 
three  Arrow-Breakers,  on  the  other  hand,  came  to  the  aid  of 
their  associate.  Many  of  their  friends  joined  them,  the  war 
cry  was  raised  on  a  sudden,  and  the  tumult  became  general. 

The  "soldiers,"  who  lent  their  timely  aid  in  putting  it  down, 
are  by  far  the  most  important  executive  functionaries  in  an 
Indian  village.  The  office  is  one  of  considerable  honor,  being 
confided  only  to  men  of  courage  and  repute.  They  derive 
their  authority  from  the  old  men  and  chief  warriors  of  the 
village,  who  elect  them  in  councils  occasionally  convened  for 
the  purpose,  and  thus  can  exercise  a  degree  of  authority  which 
no  one  else  in  the  village  would  dare  to  assume.  While  very 
few  Ogallalla  chiefs  could  venture  without  instant  jeopardy 
of  their  lives  to  strike  or  lay  hands  upon  the  meanest  of  their 
people,  the  "  soldiers,"  in  the  discharge  of  their  appropriate 
functions,  have  full  license  to  make  use  of  these  and  similar 
acts  of  coercion. 


THE  CALIFOUZUA  AND  OREGON  TliAIL.  197 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

THE    BLACK    HILLS. 

To  sit  on  rocks,  to  muse  o'er  flood  and  fell, 
To  slowly  trace  the  forest's  shady  scene, 
Where  things  that  own  not  man's  dominion  dwell, 
And  mortal  foot  hath  ne'er,  or  rarely  been  ; 
To  climb  the  trackless  mountain  all  unseen, 
With  the  wild  flock  that  never  needs  a  fold  ; 
Alone  o'er  steeps  and  foaming  falls  to  lean  ; 
This  is  net  solitude  ;  'tis  but  to  hold 

Converse  with  Nature's  charms,  and  view  her  stores  unrolled. 

CniLDE  Hakold. 

We  traveled  eastward  for  two  days,  and  then  the  gloomy 
ridges  of  the  Black  Hills  rose  up  before  us.  The  village 
passed  along  for  some  miles  beneath  their  declivities,  trailing 
out  to  a  great  length  over  the  arid  prairie,  or  winding  at 
times  among  small  detached  hills  or  distorted  shapes.  Turn- 
ing sharply  to  the  left,  we  entered  a  wide  defile  of  the  moun- 
tains, down  the  bottom  of  which  a  brook  came  winding,  lined 
with  tall  grass  and  dense  copses,  amid  which  were  hidden 
many  beaver  dams  and  lodges.  We  passed  along  between 
two  lines  of  high  i)recipices  and  rocks,  piled  in  utter  disorder 
one  upon  another,  and  with  scarcely  a  tree,  a  bush,  or  a  chimp 
of  grass  to  veil  their  nakedness.  The  restless  Indian  boys 
were  wandering  along  their  edges  and  clambering  up  and  down 
their  rugged  sides,  and  sometimes  a  group  of  them  would  stand 
on  the  verge  of  a  cliff  and  look  down  on  the  array  as  it  passed 
in  review  beneath  them.  As  we  advanced,  the  passage  grew 
more  narrow  ;  then  it  suddenly  expanded  into  a  round  grassy 
meadow,  completely  encompassed  by  mountains  ;  and  here 
the  families  stopped  as  they  came  up  in  turn,  and  the  camp 
rose  like  magic. 

The  lodges  were  hardly  erected  when,  with  their  usual  pre- 
cipitation, the  Indians  set  about  accomplishing  the  object  that 
had  brought  them  there  ;  that  is,  the  obtaining  poles  for  sup- 
porting their  new  lodges.  Half  the  population,  men,  women, 
and  boys,  mounted  their  horses  and  set  out  for  the  interior  of 
the  mountains.  As  they  rode  at  full  gallop  over  the  shingly 
rocks  and  into  tlie  dark  opening  of  the  defile  beyond,  I  thought 
I  had  never  read  or  dreamed  of  a  more  strange  or  picturesque 
cavalcade.  We  passed  between  precipices  more  than  a  thou- 
sand feet  high,  sharp  and  splintering  at  tl»e  tops,  their  sides 
beetling  over  the  defile  or  descending  in  abrupt  declivities, 


198  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

bristling  with  black  fir  trees.  On  our  left  they  rose  close  to 
us  like  a  wall,  but  on  the  right  a  winding  brook  with  a  nar- 
row strip  of  marshy  soil  intervened.  The  stream  was  clogged 
with  old  beaver  dams,  and  spread  frequently  into  wide  pools. 
There  were  thick  bushes  and  many  dead  and  blasted  trees 
along  its  course,  though  frequently  nothing  remained  but 
stumps  cut  close  to  the  ground  by  the  beaver,  and  marked 
with  the  sharp  chisel-like  teeth  of  those  indefatigable  laborers. 
Sometimes  we  were  diving  among  trees,  and  then  emerging 
upon  open  spots,  over  which,  Indian-like,  all  galloped  at  full 
speed.  As  Pauline  bounded  over  the  rocks  I  felt  her  saddle- 
girth  slipping,  and  alighted  to  draw  it  tighter  ;  when  the 
whole  arra}^  swept  past  me  in  a  moment,  the  women  with 
their  gaudy  ornaments  tinkling  as  they  rode,  the  men  whoop- 
ing, and  laughing,  and  lashing  forward  their  horses.  Two 
black-tailed  deer  bounded  awaj^  among  the  rocks  ;  Raymond 
shot  at  them  from  horseback  ;  the  sharp  report  of  his  rifle 
was  answered  by  another  equally  sharp  from  the  opposing 
cliffs,  and  then  the  echoes,  leaping  in  rapid  succession  from 
side  to  side,  died  away  rattling  far  amid  the  mountains. 

After  having  ridden  in  this  manner  for  six  or  eight  miles, 
the  appearance  of  the  scene  began  to  change,  and  all  the 
declivities  around  us  were  covered  with  forests  of  tall,  slender 
pine  trees.  The  Indians  began  to  fall  off  to  the  right  [and 
left,  and  dispersed  with  their  hatchets  and  knives  among 
these  woods,  to  cut  the  poles  which  tliey  had  come  to  seek. 
Soon  I  was  left  almost  alone  ;  but  in  the  deep  stillness  of  those 
lonely  mountains,  the  stroke  of  hatchets  and  the  sound  of 
voices  might  be  heard  from  far  and  near. 

Re3mal,who  imitated  the  Indians  in  their  habits  as  well 
as  the  worst  features  of  their  character,  had  killed  buffalo 
enough  to  make  a  lodge  for  himself  and  his  squaw,  and  now 
he  was  eager  to  get  the  poles  necessary  to  complete  it.  He 
asked  me  to  let  Raymond  go  with  him  and  assist  in  the  work. 
I  assented,  and  the  two  men  immediateh^  entered  the  thickest 
part  of  the  wood.  Having  left  m^^  horse  in  Raymond's  keep- 
ing, I  began  to  climb  the  mountain.  I  was  weak  and  weary 
and  made  slow  progress,  often  pausing  to  rest,  but  after  an 
hour  had  elapsed,  I  gained  a  height,  whence  the  little  valley 
out  of  which  I  had  climbed  seemed  like  a  deep,  dark  gulf, 
though  the  inaccessible  peak  of  the  mountain  was  still  tower- 
ing to  a  much  greater  distance  above.  Objects  familiar  from 
childhood  surrounded  me  ;  crags  and  rocks,  a  black  and  sullen 
brook  that  gurgled    with   a  hollow  voice    deep  among  the 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  199 

crevices,  a  wood  of  mossy  distorted  trees  and  prostrate  trunks 
flung  down  by  age  and  storms,  scattered  among  the  rocks,  or 
damming  the  foaming  waters  of  the  little  l)rook.  The  objects 
were  the  same,  yet  they  were  thrown  into  a  wilder  and  more 
startling  scene,  for  the  black  crags  and  the  savage  trees 
assumed  a  grim  and  theatening  aspect,  and  close  across  the 
valley  the  opposing  mountain  confronted  me,  rising  from  the 
gulf  for  thousands  of  feet,  with  its  bare  pinnacles  and  its 
ragged  covering  of  pines.  Yet  the  scene  was  not  without  its 
milder  features.  As  I  ascended,  I  found  frequent  little  grassy 
teiTaces,  and  there  was  one  of  these  close  at  hand,  across  which 
the  brook  was  stealing,  beneath  the  shade  of  scattered  trees 
that  seemed  artificiall}'  planted.  Here  I  made  a  welcome  dis- 
covery, no  other  than  a  bed  of  strawberries,  with  their  white 
flowers  and  their  red  fruit,  close  nestled  among  the  grass  by 
the  side  of  the  brook,  and  I  sat  down  by  them,  hailing  them 
as  old  acquaintances  ;  for  among  those  lonely  and  perilous 
mountains  they  awakened  delicious  associations  of  the 
gardens  and  peaceful  homes  of  far-distant  New  England. 

Yet  wild  as  they  were,  these  mountains  were  thickly  poo- 
pled.  As  I  climbed  farther,  I  found  the  broad  dusty  paths 
made  by  the  elk,  as  they  filed  across  the  mountain-side.  The 
grass  on  all  the  terraces  was  trampled  down  by  deer  ;  there 
were  numerous  tracks  of  wolves,  and  in  some  of  the  rougher 
and  more  precipitous  parts  of  the  ascent,  I  found  foot-prints 
different  from  any  that  I  had  ever  seen,  and  which  I  took  to 
be  those  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  sheep.  I  sat  down  upon  a 
rock  ;  there  was  a  perfect  stillness.  No  wind  was  stirring, 
and  not  even  an  insect  could  be  heard.  I  recollected  the 
danger  of  becoming  lost  in  such  a  place,  and  therefore  I  fixed 
my  eye  upon  one  of  the  tallest  pinnacles  of  the  opposite 
mountain.  It  rose  sheer  upright  from  the  woods  below,  and 
by  an  extraordinary  freak  of  nature  sustained  aloft  on  its 
very  summit  a  large  loose  rock.  Such  a  landmark  could  never 
be  mistaken,  and  feeling  once  more  secure,  I  began  again  to 
move  forward.  A  white  wolf  jumped  up  from  among  some 
bushes,  and  leaped  clumsily  away  ;  but  he  stopped  for  a 
moment,  and  turned  back  his  keen  eye  and  his  grim  bristling 
muzzle.  I  longed  to  take  his  scalp  and  carry  it  back  with  me, 
as  an  appropriate  troi>hy  of  the  Black  Hills,  but  before  I  could 
fire,  he  was  gone  among  the  rocks.  Soon  I  heard  a  rustling 
sound,  with  a  cracking  of  twigs  at  a  little  distance,  and  saw 
moving  above  the  tall  bushes  the  branching  antlers  of  an  elk. 
I  was  in  the  midst  of  a  hunter's  paradise. 


200  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL, 

Such  are  the  Black  Hills,  as  I  found  them  in  July  ;  but 
they  wear  a  different  garb  when  winter  sets  in,  when  the 
broad  boughs  of  the  fir  tree  are  bent  to  the  ground  by  the 
load  of  snow,  and  the  dark  mountains  are  whitened  with  it. 
At  that  season  the  mountain-trappers,  returned  from  their 
autumn  expeditions,  often  build  their  rude  cabins  in  the  midst 
of  these  solitudes,  and  live  in  abundance  and  luxury  on  the 
game  that  harbors  there.  I  have  heard  them  relate,  how  with 
their  tawny  mistresses,  and  perhaps  a  few  young  Indian  com- 
panions, they  have  spent  months  in  total  seclusion.  They 
would  dig  pitfalls,  and  set  traps  for  the  white  wolves,  the 
sables,  and  tlie  martens,  and  though  through  the  w^hole  night 
tlie  awful  chorus  of  the  wolves  w^ould  resound  from  the  frozen 
mountains  around  tliem,  yet  within  their  massive  w^alls  of 
logs  they  would  lie  in  careless  ease  and  comfort  before  the 
blazing  fire,  and  in  the  morning  shoot  the  elk  and  the  deer 
from  their  very  door. 

CHAPTER   XVin. 

A    MOUNTAIN    HUNT. 

Come,  shall  we  go  and  kill  us  venison  ? 
And  yet  it  irks  me,  the  poor  dappled  fools, 
Being  native  burghers  of  this  desert  city, 
Should  in  their  own  conlnnes,  with  forked  heads, 
Have  their  round  haunches  gored. 

As  You  Like  It. 

The  camp  was  full  of  the  newly  cut  lodge-poles  ;  some, 
already  prepared,  were  stacked  together,  white  and  glisten- 
ing, to  dry  and  harden  in  the  sun  ;  others  were  lying  on  the 
ground,  and  tlie  squaws,  the  boys,  and  even  some  of  the 
warriors  w^ere  busily  at  work  peeling  off  the  bark  and  paring 
them  with  their  knives  to  the  proper  dimensions.  Most  of  the 
hides  obtained  at  the  last  camp  were  dressed  and  scraped  thin 
enough  for  use,  and  many  of  the  squaws  were  engaged  in 
fitting  them  together  and  sewing  them  with  sinews,  to  form 
the  coverings  for  the  lodges.  Men  Avere  w^andering  among 
the  bushes  that  lined  the  brook  along  tlie  margin  of  the  camp, 
cutting  sticks  of  red  wdllow^,  ov  shongsasha,  tha  bark  of  which, 
mixed  with  tobacco,  they  use  for  smoking.  Reynal's  squaw 
was  hard  at  work  with  her  awl  and  buffalo  sinews  upon  her 
lodge,  while  her  proprietor,  having  just  finished  an  enormous 
breakfast  of  meat,  was  smoking  a  social  pipe  along  with  Ray- 
mond and  myself.     He  proposed  at  length  that  we  should  go 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TUAIL.  201 

out  on  a  hunt.  "Go  to  the  Big  Crow's  lodge,"  said  he,  "and 
get  your  riiie.  I'll  bet  the  gray  Wyandotte  pony  against  your 
mare  tiiat  we  start  an  elk  or  a  black-tailed  deer,  or  likely  as 
not,  a  bighorn,  before  we  are  two  miles  out  of  camp.  I'll 
take  my  squaw's  old  yellow  horse  ;  you  can't  whip  her  more 
than  four  miles  an  hour,  but  she  is  as  good  for  the  mountains 
as  a  mule." 

I  mounted  the  black  mule  which  Raymond  usually  rode. 
She  was  a  very  fine  and  powerful  animal,  gentle  and  manage- 
able enough  by  nature  ;  but  of  late  her  temper  had  been  soured 
by  misfortune.  About  a  week  before  I  had  chanced  to  offend 
some  one  of  the  Indians,  who  out  of  revenge  went  secreth^  into 
the  meadow  and  gave  her  a  severe  stab  in  the  haunch  with  his 
knife.  The  wound,  though  partially  healed,  still  galled  her 
extremely,  and  made  her  even  more  perverse  and  obstinate 
than  the  rest  of  her  species. 

The  morning  was  a  glorious  one,  and  I  was  in  better  health 
than  I  had  been  at  any  time  for  the  last  two  months.  Though 
a  strong  frame  and  well  compacted  sinews  had  borne*  me 
through  hitherto,  it  was  long  since  I  had  been  in  a  condition 
to  feel  the  exhilaration  of  the  fresh  mountain  wind  and  the  gay 
sunshine  that  brightened  the  crags  and  trees.  We  left  the 
little  valley  and  ascended  a  rocky  hollow  in  the  mountain. 
Very  soon  we  were  out  of  sight  of  the  camp,  and  of  every 
living  thing,  man,  beast,  bird,  or  insect.  I  had  never  before, 
except  on  foot,  passed  over  such  execrable  ground,  and  I  desire 
never  to  repeat  the  experiment.  The  black  mule  grew  indig- 
nant, and  even  the  redoubtable  yellow  horse  stumbled  every 
moment,  and  kept  groaning  to  himself  as  he  cut  his  feet  and 
legs  among  the  sharp  rocks. 

It  was  a  scene  of  silence  and  desolation.  Little  w^as  visible 
except  beetling  crags  and  the  bare  shingh'  sides  of  the  moun- 
tains, relieved  by  scarcely  a  trace  of  vegetation.  At  length, 
however,  we  came  upon  a  forest  tract,  and  had  no  sooner  done 
so  than  we  heartily  wished  ourselves  back  among  the  rocks 
again  ;  for  we  were  on  a  steep  descent,  among  trees  so  thick 
that  we  could  see  scarcely  a  rod  in  any  direction. 

If  one  is  anxious  to  place  himself  in  a  situation  where  the 
hazardous  and  the  ludicrous  are  combined  in  about  equal  pro- 
portions, let  him  get  upon  a  vicious  mule,  with  a  snaffle  bit, 
and  try  to  drive  her  through  the  woods  down  a  slope  of  45*^'. 
Let  him  have  on  a  long  rifle,  a  buckskin  frock  with  long 
fringes,  and  a  head  of  long  hair.  These  latter  appendages 
will  be  cauirht  everv   moment  and  twitched  awav   in   small 


202  THE  CALTFOnXTA  AND   OREGON'  TRAIL. 

portions  by  the  twigs,  which  will  also  whip  him  smarth^ 
across  the  face,  while  the  large  branches  above  thump  liim  on 
the  head.  His  mule,  if  she  be  a  true  one,  will  alternately  stop 
short  and  dive  violently  forward,  and  his  positions  upon  her 
back  will  be  somewhat  diversified  and  extraordinary.  At  one 
time  he  will  clasp  her  affectionatel}^,  to  avoid  the  blow  of  a 
bough  overhead  ;  at  another,  he  will  throw  himself  back  and 
fling  his  knee  forward  against  the  side  of  her  neck,  to  keep  it 
from  being  crushed  between  the  rough  bark  of  a  tree  and  the 
equally  unyielding  ribs  of  the  animal  herself.  Reynal  was 
cursing  incessantly  during  the  whole  way  down.  Neither  of 
us  had  the  remotest  idea  where  we  were  going  ;  and  though 
I  have  seen  rough  riding,  I  shall  always  retain  an  evil  recol- 
lection of  that  five  minutes'  scramble. 

At  last  we  left  our  troubles  behind  us,  emerging  into  the 
channel  of  a  brook  that  circled  along  the  foot  of  the  descent ; 
and  here,  turning  joyfullj^  to  the  left,  we  rode  in  luxury  and 
ease  over  the  white  pebbles  and  the  rippling  water,  shaded 
from  the  glaring  sun  by  an  overarching  green  transparency. 
These  halcyon  moments  were  of  short  duration.  The  friendly 
brook,  turning  sharply  to  one  side,  went  brawling  and  foaming 
down  the  rocky  hill  into  an  abyss,  which,  as  far  as  we  could 
discern,  had  no  bottom  ;  so  once  more  we  betook  ourselves  to 
tlie  detested  woods.  When  next  we  came  forth  from  tlieir 
dancing  shadow  and  sunlight,  we  found  ourselves  standing  in 
the  broad  glare  of  day,  on  a  liigh  jutting  point  of  the  moun- 
tain. Before  us  stretched  a  long,  wide,  desert  vallej^,  winding 
away  far  amid  the  mountains.  No  civilized  ej^e  but  mine  had 
ever  looked  upon  that  virgin  waste.  Reynal  was  gazing 
intently  ;  he  began  to  speak  at  last : 

"  Many  a  time,  when  I  was  with  the  Indians,  I  have  been 
hunting  for  gold  all  through  the  Black  Hills.  There's  plenty 
of  it  here  ;  j^ou  may  be  certain  of  that.  I  have  dreamed 
about  it  fifty  times,  and  I  never  dreamed  3^et  but  what  it  came 
out  true.  Look  over  yonder  at  those  black  rocks  piled  up 
aGjainst  that  other  bic^  rock.  Don't  it  look  as  if  there  mioht 
be  something  there  ?  It  won't  do  for  a  white  man  to  be  rum- 
maging too  much  about  these  mountains  ;  the  Indians  say 
they  are  full  of  bad  spirits  ;  and  I  believe  myself  that  it's  no 
good  luck  to  be  hunting  about  here  after  gold.  Well,  for  all 
that,  I  would  like  to  have  one  of  these  follows  up  here,  from 
down  below,  to  go  about  with  his  witch-hazel  rod,  and  I'll 
guarantee  that  it  would  not  be  long  before  he  would  light 
on  a  gold   mine.     Never  mind  ;  we'll  let  the  gold  alone  for 


THE  GALIFOnyTA   AND   OREGON  TRAIL.  203 

to-day.  Look  at  those  trees  down  below  us  in  the  hollow  ; 
we'll  go  down  there,  and  I  reckon  we'll  get  a  black-tailed 
deer." 

But  Reynal's  predictions  were  not  verified.  We  passed 
luountain  after  mountain,  and  valley  after  valley  ;  we  explored 
deep  ravines;  yet  still  to  my  companion's  vexation  and  evi- 
dent surprise,  no  game  could  be  found.  So,  in  the  absence  of 
l>etter,  we  resolved  to  go  out  on  the  plains  and  look  for  an 
antelope.  With  this  view  we  began  to  pass  down  a  narrow 
valley,  the  bottom  of  which  was  coverecl  with  the  stiff  wild- 
sage  bushes  and  marked  with  deep  paths,  made  by  the  buffalo, 
who,  for  some  inexplicable  reason,  are  accustomed  to  penetrate, 
in  their  long  grave  processions,  deep  among  the  gorges  of 
tliese  sterile  mountains. 

Reynal's  eye  was  ranging  incessantly  among  the  rocks  and 
along  the  edges  of  the  black  precipices,  in  hopes  of  discover- 
ing the  mountain  sheep  peering  down  upon  us  in  fancied  secu- 
rity from  that  giddy  elevation.  Nothing  was  visible  for  some 
time.  At  length  we  both  detected  something  in  motion  near 
the  foot  of  one  of  the  mountains,  and  in  a  moment  afterward 
a  black- tailed  deer,  with  his  spreading  antlers,  stood  gazing 
at  us  from  the  top  of  a  rock,  and  then,  slowly  turning  away, 
<lisappeared  behind  it.  In  an  instant  Reynal  was  out  of 
his  saddle,  and  running  toward  the  spot.  I,  being  too  weak 
to  follow,  sat  holding  his  horse  and  waiting  the  result.  I  lost 
sight  of  him,  then  heard  the  report  of  his  rifle  deadened  among 
the  rocks,  and  finally  saw  him  reappear,  with  a  surly  look 
that  plainly  betrayed  his  ill  success.  Again  we  moved  for- 
ward down  the  long  valley,  when  soon  after  we  came  full 
upon  what  seemed  a  wide  and  very  sliallow  ditch,  incrusted 
at  the  bottom  with  white  cla}^,  dried  and  cracked  in  the  sun. 
Under  this  fair  outside,  Reynal's  q\q  detected  the  signs  of 
lurking  mischief.  He  called  me  to  stop,  and  then  alighting, 
picked  up  a  stone  and  threw  it  into  the  ditch.  To  my  utter 
amazement  it  fell  with  a  dull  splash,  breaking  at  once  tlirough 
the  thin  crust,  and  spattering  round  the  hole  a  yellowish 
creamy  fluid,  into  which  it  sank  and  disappeared.  A  stick, 
five  or  six  feet  long,  lay  on  the  ground,  and  with  this  we 
sounded  the  insidious  abyss  close  to  its  edge.  It  was  just 
possible  to  touch  the  bottom.  Places  like  this  are  numerous 
among  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  buffalo,  in  his  blind  and 
heedless  walk,  often  plunges  into  them  unawares.  Down  he 
sinks:  one  snort  of  1  error,  oiu»  convulsive  struoQ:lc,  and  the 
slime  calmly  flows  above  his  shaggy  head,  the  languid  undu- 


204  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

lations  of  its  sleek  and  placid  surface  alone  betraying  how  the 
powerful  monster  writhes  in  his  death- throes  below. 

We  found  after  some  trouble  a  point  where  we  could  pass 
the  abyss,  and  now  the  valley  began  to  open  upon  the  plains 
which  spread  to  the  horizon  before  us.  On  one  of  their  dis- 
tant swells  we  discerned  three  or  four  black  specks,  which 
Reynal  pronounced  to  be  buffalo. 

"  Come,"  said  he,  "  we  must  get  one  of  them.  My  squaw 
wants  more  sinews  to  finish  her  lodge  with,  and  I  want  some 
glue  myself." 

He  immediately  put  the  yellow  horse  to  such  a  gallop  as  he 
was  capable  of  executing,  while  I  set  spurs  to  the  mule,  who 
soon  far  outran  her  plebeian  rival.  When  we  had  galloped  a 
mile  or  more,  a  large  rabbit,  by  ill  luck,  sprang  up  just  under 
the  feet  of  the  mule,  who  bounded  violenth^  aside  in  full  career. 
Weakened  as  I  was,  I  was  flung  forcibly  to  the  ground,  and 
my  rifle,  falling  close  to  my  head,  went  off  with  the  shock.  Its 
sharp,  spiteful  report  rang  for  some  moments  in  my  ear. 
Being  slightly  stunned,  I  lay  for  an  instant  motionless,  and 
Reynal,  supposing  me  to  be  shot,  rode  up  and  began  to  curse 
the  mule.  §oon  recovering  myself,  I  rose,  picked  up  the 
rifle  and  anxiously  examined  it.  It  was  badly  injured.  The 
stock  was  cracked,  and  the  main  screw  broken,  so  that  the 
lock  had  to  be  tied  in  its  place  with  a  string  ;  yet  happily  it 
was  not  rendered  totally  unserviceable.  I  wiped  it  out,  re- 
loaded it,  and  handing  it  to  Reynal,  who  meanwhile  had  caught 
the  mule  and  led  her  up  to  me,  I  mounted  again.  No  sooner 
had  I  done  so,  than  the  brute  began  to  rear  and  plunge  with 
extreme  violence  ;  but  being  now  well  prepared  for  her,  and 
free  from  incumbrance,  I  soon  reduced  her  to  submission. 
Then  taking  the  rifle  again  from  Reynal,  we  galloped  forward 
as  before. 

We  were  now  free  of  the  mountain  and  riding  far  out  on 
the  broad  prairie.  The  buffalo  were  still  some  two  miles  in 
advance  of  us.  When  we  came  near  them,  we  stopped  where 
a  gentle  swell  of  the  plain  concealed  us  from  their  view,  and 
while  I  held  his  horse  Re^^nal  ran  forward  with  his  rifle,  till  I 
lost  sight  of  him  beyond  the  rising  ground.  A  few  minutes 
elapsed  ;  I  heard  the  report  of  his  piece,  and  saw  the  buffalo 
running  away  at  full  speed  on  the  right,  and  immediately  after, 
the  hunter  himself,  unsuccessful  as  before,  came  up  and 
mounted  his  horse  in  excessive  ill  humor.  He  cursed  the  Black 
Hills  and  the  buffalo,  swore  that  he  was  a  good  hunter, 
which  indeed  M'as  true,  and  that  he  had  never  been  out  before 


TBE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  205 

among  those  mountains  without  killing  two  or  three  deer  at 
least. 

We  now  turned  toward  the  distant  encampment.  As  we 
rode  along,  antelope  in  considerable  numbers  were  flying 
liglitly  in  all  directions  over  the  plain,  but  not  one  of  them 
would  stand  and  be  shot  at.  When  we  readied  the  foot  of  the 
mountain  ridge  that  lay  between  us  and  the  village,  we  were 
too  impatient  to  take  the  smooth  and  circuitous  route  ;  so  turn- 
ing sliort  to  the  left,  we  drove  our  wearied  animals  directly 
upward  among  the  rocks.  Still  more  antelope  were  leaping 
about  among  these  flinty  hillsides.  Each  of  us  shot  at  one, 
though  from  a  great  distance,  and  each  missed  his  mark.  At 
length  we  reached  the  summit  of  the  last  ridge.  Looking 
down,  we  saw  the  bustling  camp  in  the  valley  at  our  feet,  and 
ingloriously  descended  to  it.  As  we  rode  among  the  lodges, 
the  Indians  looked  in  vain  for  the  fresh  meat  that  should  have 
hung  behind  our  saddles,  and  the  squaws  uttered  various  sup- 
pressed ejaculations,  to  the  great  indignation  of  Reynal.  Our 
mortification  was  increased  when  we  rode  up  to  his  lodge. 
Here  we  saw  his  young  Indian  relative,  tlie  Hail-Storm,  iiis 
light  graceful  figure  reclining  on  the  ground  in  an  easy  atti- 
tu<le,  while  with  his  friend  the  Rabbit,  who  sat  by  his  side,  he 
was  making  an  abundant  meal  from  a  wooden  bowl  of  ^oasiia, 
which  the  squaw  had  placed  between  them.  Near  him  lay  the 
fresh  skin  of  a  female  elk,  which  he  had  just  killed  among  the 
mountains,  only  a  mile  or  two  from  the  camp.  No  doubt  the 
boy's  heart  was  elated  with  triumph,  but  he  betrayed  no  sign 
of  it.  He  even  seemed  totally  unconscious  of  our  approach, 
and  his  handsome  face  had  all  the  tranquillity  of  Indian  self- 
control  ;  a  self-control  which  prevents  the  exhibition  of  emotion 
witliout  restrainig  the  emotion  itself.  It  was  about  two  months 
since  I  had  known  the  Hail-Storm,  and  within  that  time  his 
character  had  remarkably  developed.  When  I  first  saw  him, 
he  was  just  emerging  from  the  habits  and  feelings  of  tlie  boy 
into  the  ambition  of  the  hunter  and  warrior.  He  had  lately 
killed  his  first  deer,  and  this  had  excited  his  aspirations  after 
distinction.  Since  that  time  he  had  been  continually  in  search 
of  game,  and  no  young  hunter  in  the  village  had  been  so  active 
or  so  fortunate  as  he.  It  will  perhaps  be  remembered  how 
fearlessly  he  attacked  the  buffalo  bull,  as  we  were  moving 
toward  our  camj)  at  the  Medicine-Bow  Mountain.  All  this 
success  had  produced  a  marked  change  in  his  character.  As 
I  first  remembered  him  he  always  shunned  the  society  of  the 
young  squaws,  and  was  extremely   bashful  and  sheepish  in 


206  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

their  presence  ;  but  now,  in  the  confidence  of  his  own  reputa- 
tion, he  began  to  assume  the  airs  and  the  arts  of  a  man  of 
gallantry.  He  wore  his  red  blanket  dashingly  over  his  left 
shoulder,  painted  his  cheeks  every  daj^  with  vermilion,  and 
hung  pendants  of  shells  in  his  ears.  If  I  observed  aright,  he 
met  with  very  good  success  in  his  new  pursuits  ;  still  the 
Hail-Storm  had  much  to  accomplish  before  he  attained  the 
full  standing  of  a  warrior.  Gallantly  as  he  began  to  bear 
himself  among  the  women  and  girls,  he  still  was  timid  and 
abashed  in  the  presence  of  the  chiefs  and  old  men  ;  for  he 
had  never  yet  killed  a  man,  or  stricken  the  dead  body  of  an 
enemy  in  battle.  I  liave  no  doubt  that  the  handsome  smooth- 
faced boy  burned  with  a  keen  desire  to  flesh  his  maiden 
scalping  knife,  and  I  would  not  have  encamped  alone  with  him 
without  watching  his  movements  with  a  distrustful  eye. 

His  elder  brother,  the  Horse,  was  of  a  different  character. 
He  was  nothing  but  a  laz}^  dandy.  He  knew  very  well  how 
to  hunt,  but  preferred  to  live  by  the  hunting  of  others.  He 
had  no  appetite  for  distinction,  and  the  Hail-Storm,  though  a 
few  years  younger  than  he,  alreadj"  surpassed  him  in  reputa- 
tion. He  had  a  dark  and  ugly  face,  and  he  passed  a  great 
part  of  his  time  in  adorning  it  with  vermilion,  and  contemplat- 
ing it  by  means  of  a  little  pocket  looking-glass  which  I  gave 
him.  As  for  the  rest  of  the  day,  he  divided  it  between  eating 
and  sleeping,  and  sitting  in  tlie  sun  on  the  outside  of  a  lodge. 
Here  he  would  remain  for  hour  after  hour,  arrayed  in  all  his 
finerv,  with  an  old  dragoon's  sword  in  his  hand,  and  evidently 
flattering  himself  that  he  was  the  center  of  attraction  to  the 
eyes  of  tlie  surrounding  squaws.  Yet  he  sat  looking  straight 
forward  with  a  face  of  the  utmost  gravity,  ns  if  wi-apped  in 
profound  meditation,  and  it  was  only  by  the  occasional  side- 
long glances  which  he  shot  at  his  supposed  admirers  that  one 
could  detect  the  true  course  of  his  thoughts. 

Botli  he  and  his  brother  may  represent  a  class  in  the  Indian 
community:  neither  should  the  Hail-Storni's  friend,  the  Rab- 
bit, be  passed  by  without  notice.  The  Hail-Storni  and  he 
were  inseparable  :  the}^  ate,  slept,  and  hunted  together,  and 
shared  with  one  another  almost  all  that  they  possessed.  If 
there  be  anj'thing  that  deserves  to  be  called  romantic  in  the 
Indian  character,  it  is  to  be  sought  for  in  friendships  such  as 
this,  which  are  quite  common  among  many  of  the  prairie 
tribes. 

Slowly,  hour  after  hour,  that  weary  afternoon  dragged 
away.     I  lay  in  Re^mal's  lodge,  overcome  by  the  listless  torpor 


THE  CALIFOUNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL.  207 

that  pervaded  the  wliole  encampment.  The  day's  work  was 
finished,  or  if  it  were  not,  the  inhabitants  had  resolved  not  to 
finish  it  at  all,  and  all  were  dozing  quietly  within  the  shelter 
of  the  lodges.  A  profound  lethargy,  the  very  spirit  of  indo- 
lence, seemed  to  have  sunk  upon  the  village.  Now  and  then 
I  could  hear  the  low  laughter  of  some  girl  from  within  a  neigh- 
boring lodge,  or  the  small  shrill  voices  of  a  few  restless  chil- 
dren, who  alone  were  moving  in  the  deserted  area.  The  spirit 
of  the  place  infected  me  ;  I  could  not  even  think  consecutively  ; 
I  was  fit  only  for  nmsing  and  reverie,  when  at  last,  like  the 
rest,  I  fell  asleep. 

When  evening  came  and  the  fires  were  lighted  round  the 
lodges,  a  select  family  circle  convened  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Reynal's  domicile.  It  was  composed  entirely  of  his  squaw's 
relatives,  a  mean  and  ignoble  clan,  among  whom  none  but  the 
Hail-Storm  held  forth  an}'  promise  of  future  distinction.  Even 
his  prospects  were  rendered  not  a  little  dubious  b}'  the  charac- 
ter of  the  family,  less  however  from  any  principle  of  aristo- 
cratic distinction  than  from  the  want  of  powerful  supporters 
to  assist  him  in  his  undertakings,  and  help  to  avenge  his  quar- 
rels. Raymond  and  I  sat  down  along  with  them.  There 
were  eight  or  ten  men  gathered  around  the  fire,  together  with 
about  as  many  women,  old  and  young,  some  of  whom  were 
tolerably  good-looking.  As  the  pipe  passed  round  among  the 
men,  a  lively  conversation  went  forward,  more  merr}'  than 
delicate,  and  at  length  two  or  three  of  the  elder  women  (for 
the  girls  were  somewhat  difiident  and  bashful)  began  to  assail 
Raymond  with  various  pungent  witticisms.  Some  of  the  men 
took  part,  and  an  old  squaw  concluded  by  bestowing  on  him 
a  ludicrous  nickname,  at  which  a  general  laugh  followed  at 
his  expense.  Raymond  grinned  and  giggled,  and  made  sev- 
eral futile  attempts  at  repartee.  Knowing  the  inipolicy  and 
even  danger  of  suffering  mj^self  to  be  placed  in  a  ludicrous 
light  among  the  Indians,  I  maintained  a  rigid  inflexible  coun- 
tenance, and  wliolly  escaped  their  sallies. 

In  the  morning  I  found,  to  m}'  great  disgust,  tliat  the  camp 
was  to  retain  its  position  for  another  day.  I  dreaded  its  lan- 
guor and  monotony,  and  to  escape  it,  I  set  out  to  explore  the 
surrounding  mountains.  I  was  accompanied  by  a  faithful 
friend,  my  rifie,  the  only  friend  indeed  on  whose  jjrompt  assist- 
ance in  time  of  trouble  I  could  implicitly  reply.  Most  of  the 
Indians  in  the  village,  it  is  true,  professed  good  will  toward  the 
whites,  but  the  experience  of  ot^hers  and  my  own  observation 
had  taught  me  the  extreme  folly  of  confidence,  and  the  utter 


SOS  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

impossibility  of  foreseeing  to  what  sudden  acts  the  strange  un- 
bridled  impulses  of  an  Indian  may  urge  him.  When  among 
this  people  danger  is  never  so  near  as  when  you  are  unprepared 
for  it,  never  so  remote  as  when  you  are  armed  and  on  the  alert 
to  meet  it  any  moment.  Nothing  offers  so  strong  a  tempta- 
tion to  their  ferocious  instincts  as  the  appearance  of  timidity, 
weakness,  or  security. 

Many  deep  and  gloomy  gorges,  choked  with  trees  and 
bushes,  opened  from  the  sides  of  the  hills,  which  were  shaggy 
with  forests  wherever  the  rocks  permitted  vegetation  to  spring. 
A  great  number  of  Indians  were  stalking  along  the  edges  of 
the  woods,  and  boys  were  whooping  and  laughing  on  the 
mountain-sides,  practicing  eye  and  hand,  and  indulging  their 
destructive  propensities  by  following  birds  and  small  animals 
and  killing  them  with  their  little  bows  and  arrows.  Tliere 
was  one  glen,  stretching  up  between  steep  cliffs  far  into  the 
bosom  of  the  mountain.  I  began  to  ascend  along  its  bottom, 
pushing  my  way  onward  among  the  rocks,  trees,  and  bushes 
that  obstructed  it.  A  slender  thread  of  water  trickled  along 
its  center,  which  since  issuing  from  the  heart  of  its  native 
rock  could  scarcely  have  been  warmed  or  gladdened  b}^  a  ray 
of  sunshine.  After  advancing  for  some  time,  I  conceived  my- 
self  to  be  entirely  alone  ;  but  coming  to  a  part  of  the  glen  in 
a  great  measure  free  of  trees  and  undergrowth,  I  saw  at  some 
distance  the  black  head  and  red  shoulders  of  an  Indian  among 
the  bushes  above.  The  reader  need  not  prepare  himself  for 
a  startling  adventure,  for  I  have  none  to  relate.  The  head 
and  shoulders  belonged  to  Mene-Seela,  my  best  friend  in  the 
village.  As  I  had  approached  noiselessly  with  m}^  moccasined 
feet,  tlie  old  man  was  quite  unconscious  of  my  presence  ;  and 
turning  to  a  point  where  I  could  gain  an  unobstructed  view 
of  him,  I  saw  him  seated  alone,  immovable  as  a  statue,  among 
the  rocks  and  trees.  His  face  was  turned  upward,  and  his 
e3^es  seemed  riveted  on  a  pine  tree  springing  from  a  cleft  in 
the  precipice  above.  The  crest  of  the  pine  was  swaying  to 
and  fro  in  the  wind,  and  its  long  limbs  waved  slowly  up  and 
down,  as  if  the  tree  had  life.  Looking  for  a  while  at  the  old 
man,  I  was  satisfied  that  he  was  engaged  in  an  act  of  worship 
or  prayer,  or  communion  of  some  kind  with  a  supernatural 
being.  I  longed  to  penetrate  his  thoughts,  but  I  could  do 
nothing  more  than  conjecture  and  speculate.  I  knew  that 
though  the  intellect  of  an  Indian  can  embrace  the  idea  of  an 
all-wise,  all-powerful  Spirit,  the  supreme  Ruler  of  the  universe, 
yet  his  mind  will  not  always  ascend  into  communion  with  a 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  209 

being  that  seems  to  him  so  vast,  remote,  and  incomprehensi- 
ble ;  and  wlien  danger  tlireatens,  when  his  hopes  are  broken, 
when  the  black  wing  of  sorrow  overshadows  him,  he  is  prone 
to  turn  for  relief  to  some  inferior  agency,  less  removed  from 
the  ordinary  scope  of  his  faculties.  He  has  a  guardian  spirit, 
on  whom  he  relies  for  succor  and  guidance.  To  him  all  nature 
is  instinct  with  mystic  influence.  Among  those  mountains 
not  a  wild  beast  was  prowling,  a  bird  singing,  or  a  leaf  flut- 
tering, tliat  might  not  tend  to  direct  his  destiny  or  give  warn- 
ing of  what  was  in  store  for  him  ;  and  he  watches  the  world 
of  nature  around  him  as  the  astrologer  watches  the  stars.  So 
closely  is  he  linked  with  it  that  his  guardian-spirit,  no  un- 
substantial creation  of  the  fancy,  is  usually  embodied  in  the 
form  of  some  living  thing — a  bear,  a  wolf,  an  eagle,  or  a  ser- 
pent ;  and  Mene-Seela,  as  he  gazed  intently  on  the  old  pine 
tree,  might  believe  it  to  inshrine  the  fancied  guide  and  pro- 
tector of  his  life. 

Whatever  was  passing  in  the  mind  of  the  old  man,  it  was 
no  part  of  sense  or  of  delicacy  to  disturb  him.  Silently  retrac- 
ing my  footsteps,  I  descended  the  glen  until  I  came  to  a  point 
where  I  could  climb  the  steep  precipices  tliat  shut  it  in,  and 
gain  the  side  of  the  mountain.  Looking  up,  I  saw  a  tall  peak 
rising  among  the  woods.  Something  impelled  me  to  climb  ; 
I  had  not  felt  for  manj  a  day  such  strength  and  elasticity  of 
limb.  An  hour  and  a  half  of  slow  and  often  intermitted 
labor  brought  me  to  the  ver}'^  summit  ;  and  emerging  from 
the  dark  shadows  of  the  rocks  and  pines,  I  stepped  forth  into 
the  light,  and  walking  along  the  sunny  verge  of  a  precipice, 
seated  myself  on  its  extreme  point.  Looking  between  the 
mountain  peaks  to  the  westward,  the  pale  blue  prairie  was 
stretching  to  the  farthest  horizon  like  a  serene  and  tranquil 
ocean.  The  surrounding  mountains  were  in  themselves  sufti- 
ciently  striking  and  impressive,  but  this  contrast  gave  re- 
doubled effect  to  their  stern  features. 


210  THE  CALIFORNIA  AJSD  OREGON  TRAIL. 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

PASSAGE    OF   THE    MOUNTAINS. 

Dear  Nature  is  the  kindest  mother  still, 
Though  always  changing,  in  her  aspect  mild  ; 
From  her  bare  bosom  let  me  take  my  fill, 
Her  never  weaned,  though  not  her  favored  child. 
Oh,  she  is  fairest  in  her  features  wild, 
When  nothing  polished  dares  pollute  her  path  ; 
On  me  by  da}'  and  night  she  ever  smiled, 
Though  I  have  marked  her  where  none  other  hath. 
And  sought  her  more  and  more,  and  loved  her  best  in  wrath. 

Childe  Harold. 

When  I  took  leave  of  Shaw  at  La  Bonte's  camp,  I  promised 
that  I  would  meet  liim  at  Fort  Laramie  on  the  1st  of  August. 
That  da}^,  according  to  m}^  reckoning,  was  now  close  at  liand. 
It  was  impossible,  at  best,  to  fulfill  my  engagement  exactly, 
and  my  meeting  with  him  must  have  been  postponed  until 
many  days  after  the  appointed  time,  had  not  tiie  plans  of  the 
Indians  very  w^ell  coincided  with  my  own.  They  too,  intended 
to  pass  the  mountains  and  move  toward  the  fort.  To  do  so 
at  this  point  was  impossible,  because  there  was  no  opening  ; 
and  in  order  to  find  a  passage  we  were  obliged  to  go  twelve 
or  fourteen  miles  southward.  Late  in  tlie  afternoon  the  camp 
got  in  motion,  defiling  back  through  the  mountains  along  the 
same  narrow  passage  by  which  the}"  had  entered.  I  rode  in 
company  with  three  or  four  young  Indians  at  the  rear,  and 
the  moving  swarm  stretched  before  me,  in  the  ruddy  light  of 
sunset,  or  in  the  deep  shadow  of  the  mountains  far  beyond  my 
sight.  It  was  an  ill-omened  spot  they  chose  to  encamp  upon. 
AVlien  tliey  w^ere  there  just  a  year  before,  a  war  party  of  ten 
men,  led  by  The  Wliirlwind's  son,  had  gone  out  against  the 
enemy,  and  not  one  had  ever  returned.  This  was  tlie  immedi- 
ate cause  of  this  season's  warlike  preparations.  I  was  not  a 
little  astonished  when  I  came  to  the  camp,  at  the  confusion  of 
horrible  sounds  with  which  it  was  filled  ;  howls,  shrieks,  and 
wailings  were  heard  from  all  the  women  present,  many  of 
whom,  not  content  with  this  exhibition  of  grief  for  the  loss 
of  thejr  friends  and  relatives,  w^ere  gashing  their  legs  deeply 
with  knives.  A  warrior  in  the  village,  ^\\\o  had  lost  a  brother 
in  the  expedition,  chose  another  mode  of  displaying  his 
sorrow.  The  Indians,  who,  though  often  repacious,  are 
utterly  devoid  of  avarice,  are  accustomed  in  times  of  mourn- 
ing, or  on  other  solemn   occasions,  to  give  aw^ay  the  Avhole  of 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OBEOON  TRAIL.  211 

their  possessions,  and  reduce  themselves  to  nakedness  and 
want.  Tlie  warrior  in  question  led  his  two  best  horses  into 
the  center  of  the  village,  and  gave  them  away  to  his  friends  ; 
upon  wliich  songs  and  acclamations  in  praise  of  his  generosity 
mingled  with  the  cries  of  the  women. 

On  the  next  morning  we  entered  once  more  among  the 
mountains.  There  was  nothing  in  their  appearance  either 
grand  or  picturesque,  tliougli  tliey  were  desolate  to  the  last 
degree,  being  mere  piles  of  black  and  broken  rocks,  without 
trees  or  vegetation  of  any  kind.  As  we  passed  among  them 
along  a  wide  valle}',  I  noticed  Raymoiul  riding  b}^  the  side  of  a 
young  squaw  to  whom  he  was  addressing  various  insinuating 
compliments.  All  the  old  squaws  in  the  neighborhood  watched 
his  proceedings  in  great  admiration,  and  the  girl  herself  wouhl 
turn  aside  her  liead  and  laugh.  Just  then  tlie  old  mule  thought 
proper  to  disphiy  her  vicious  pj-anks  ;  she  began  to  rear  and 
plunge  most  furioush\  Raymond  was  an  excellent  rider,  and 
at  first  he  stuck  fast  in  his  seat  ;  but  the  moment  after,  I  saw 
the  mule's  hind-legs  flourishing  in  the  air,  and  my  unlucky 
follower  pitching  head  foremost  over  her  ears.  There  was  a 
burst  of  screams  and  laughter  from  all  the  women,  in  which 
his  mistress  herself  took  part,  and  Raymond  was  instantly  as- 
sailed by  such  a  shower  of  witticisms,  that  he  was  glad  to  ride 
forward  out  of  hearing. 

Not  long  after,  as  I  rode  near  him,  I  heard  him  shouting  to 
me.  He  was  pointing  toward  a  detached  rock}^  hill  that  stood 
in  the  middle  of  the  valley  before  us,  and  from  behind  it  a  long 
file  of  elk  came  out  at  full  speed  and  entered  an  opening  in  the 
side  of  the  mountain.  They  had  scarceh^  disappeared  when 
whoops  and  exclamations  came  from  fifty  voices  around  me. 
The  3'oung  men  leaped  from  their  horses,  flung  down  their 
heavy  buffalo  robes,  and  ran  at  full  speed  toward  the  foot  of 
the  nearest  mountain.  Re^-nal  also  broke  away  at  a  gallop  in 
the  same  direction,  "  Come  on  !  come  on  !  "  he  called  to  us. 
"Do  you  see  that  band  of  bighorn  up  yonder?  If  there's 
one  of  them,  there's  a  hundred  ! " 

In  fact,  near  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  I  could  see  a 
large  number  of  small  white  objects,  moving  rapidly  upward 
among  the  precipices,  while  others  were  filing  along  its  rocky 
jjrofile.  Anxious  to  see  the  sport,  I  galloped  forward,  and  en- 
tering a  passage  in  the  side  of  the  mountain,  ascended  among 
the  loose  rocki^  as  far  as  my  horse  could  carry  me.  Here  I 
fastened  her  to  an  old  pine  tree  that  stood  alone,  scorching  in 
the  sun.     At  that  moment  Ravmond  called  to  me  from  tlie 


212  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

right  that  another  band  of  sheep  was  close  at  hand  in  that  direc- 
tion. I  ran  up  to  the  top  of  the  opening,  which  gave  me  a  full 
view  into  the  rocky  gorge  bej^ond  ;  and  here  I  plainly  saw 
some  fifty  or  sixty  slieep,  almost  within  rifle-shot,  clattering 
upward  among  the  rocks,  and  endeavoring,  after  their  usual 
custom,  to  reach  the  liighest  point.  Tlie  naked  Indians  bounded 
up  lightly  in  pursuit.  In  a  moment  the  game  and  hunters  dis- 
appeared. Nothing  could  be  seen  or  heard  but  the  occasional 
report  of  a  gun,  more  and  more  distant,  reverberating  among 
the  rocks. 

I  turned  to  descend,  and  as  I  did  so  I  could  see  the  valley 
below  alive  with  Indians  passing  rapiclly  through  it  on  horse- 
back and  on  foot.  A  little  farther  on,  all  were  stopping  as 
they  came  up  ;  the  camp  was  preparing,  and  the  lodges  rising. 
I  descended  to  this  spot,  and  soon  after  Reynal  and  Raymond 
returned.  They  bore  between  them  a  sheep  which  they  had 
pelted  to  death  with  stones  from  the  edge  of  a  ravine,  along 
the  bottom  of  which  it  was  attempting  to  escape.  One  by  one 
the  hunters  came  dropping  in  ;  yet  such  is  the  activity  of  the 
Rocky  Mountain  sheep  that,  although  sixty  or  seventy  men 
were  out  in  pursuit,  not  more  than  half  a  dozen  animals  were 
killed.  Of  these  only  one  was  a  full-grown  male.  He  had  a 
pair  of  horns  twisted  like  a  ram's,  tlie  dimensions  of  wliieli 
were  almost  beyond  belief.  I  have  seen  among  the  Indians 
ladles  with  long  handles,  capable  of  containing  more  than  a 
quart,  cut  out  from  such  liorns. 

There  is  something  peculiarly  interesting  in  the  character 
and  habits  of  the  mountain  sheep,  whose  chosen  retreats  are 
above  the  region  of  vegetation  and  of  storms,  and  who  leap 
among  the  giddy  precipices  of  their  aerial  liome  as  actively  as 
the  antelope  skims  over  the  prairies  below. 

Througli  the  whole  of  the  next  morning  we  were  moving- 
forward,  among  the  hills.  On  the  following  day  the  heights 
gathered  around  us,  and  the  passage  of  the  mountains  began 
in  earnest.  Before  the  village  left  its  camping  ground,  I  set 
forward  in  company  witli  the  Eagle-Feather,  a  man  of  power- 
ful frame,  but  of  bad  and  sinister  face.  His  son,  a  light- 
limbed  boy,  rode  with  us,  and  another  Indian,  named  the 
Panther,  was  also  of  the  party.  Leaving  the  village  out  of 
sight  behind  us,  we  rode  together  up  ^  rocky  defile.  After  a 
while,  however,  the  Eagle-Feather  discovered  in  the  distance 
some  appearance  of  game,  and  set  off  with  his  son  in  pursuit 
of  it,  while  I  went  forward  with  tlie  Panther.  This  was  a 
mere  7iom  de  guerre  ;  for,  like  many  Indians,  he  concealed  his 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  213 

real  name  out  of  some  superstitious  notion.  He  was  a  very 
noble  looking  fellow.  As  he  suffered  his  ornamented  buffalo 
robe  to  fall  in  folds  about  his  loins,  his  statel^^  and  graceful 
figure  was  fully  displayed  ;  and  while  he  sat  his  horse  in  an 
easy  attitude,  the  long  feathers  of  the  prairie  cock  fluttering 
from  the  crown  of  his  head,  he  seemed  the  very  model  of  a 
wild  prairie-rider.  He  had  not  the  same  features  with  those 
of  other  Indians.  Unless  his  handsome  face  greatly  belied 
him,  he  was  free  from  tlie  jealousy,  suspicion,  and  malignant 
cunning  of  his  people.  For  the  most  part,  a  civilized  white 
man  can  discover  but  very  few  points  of  sympathy  between 
his  own  nature  and  that  of  an  Indian.  With  every  dis- 
position to  do  justice  to  their  good  qualities,  he  must  be  con- 
scious that  an  impassable  gulf  lies  between  him  and  his  red 
brethren  of  the  prairie.  Nay,  so  alien  to  himself  do  they 
appear  that,  having  breathed  for  a  few  months  or  a  few  weeks 
tlie  air  of  this  region,  he  begins  to  look  upon  them  as  a  trouble- 
some and  dangerous'species  of  wild  beast,  and,  if  expedient,  he 
could  shoot  them  with  as  little  compunction  as  thej^  themselves 
would  experience  after  performing  the  same  office  upon  him. 
Yet,  in  the  countenance  of  the  Panther,  I  gladly  read  that 
there  were  at  least  some  points  of  sympathy  between  him  and 
me.  We  were  excellent  friends,  and  as  we  rode  forward 
together  through  rocky  passages,  deep  dells,  and  little  barren 
plains,  he  occupied  himself  very  zealously  in  teaching  me  the 
Dakota  language.  After  a  while,  we  came  to  a  little  grassy 
recess,  where  some  gooseberry  bushes  were  growing  at  the 
foot  of  a  rock  :  and  these  offered  such  temptation  to  my  com- 
panion, that  he  gave  over  his  instruction,  and  stopped  so  long 
to  gather  the  fruit  that  before  we  were  in  motion  again  the 
van  of  the  village  came  in  view.  An  old  woman  appeared, 
leading  down  her  pack  horse  among  the  rocks  above.  Savage 
after  savage  followed,  and  the  little  dell  was  soon  crowded 
with  the  throng. 

That  morning's  march  was  one  not  easily  to  be  forgotten. 
It  led  us  through  a  sublime  waste,  a  wilderness  of  mountains 
and  pine  forests,  over  which  the  s])irit  of  loneliness  and  silence 
seemed  brooding.  Above  and  below  little  could  be  seen  but 
the  same  dark  green  foliage.  It  oveispread  the  valleys,  and 
the  mountains  were  clothed  with  it  from  the  black  rocks  that 
crowned  their  summits  to  the  impetuous  streams  that  circled 
round  their  base.  Scenery  like  this,  it  might  seem,  could 
have  no  very  cheering  effect  on  the  mind  of  a  sick  man  (for 
to-dav  mv  <lis(\as('  lind   again   assaih'd  me)  in  the  midst  of  a 


2U  THE  CALIFOB^IA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

horde  of  savages  ;  but  if  the  reader  lias  ever  wandered,  with 
a  true  hunter's  spirit,  among  the  forests  of  Maine,  or  tlie  more 
picturesque  solitudes  of  the  Adirondack  Mountains,  he  will 
understand  how  the  somber  woods  and  mountains  around  me 
might  have  awakened  an}^  other  feelings  than  those  of  gloom. 
In  truth  they  recalled  gladdening  recollections  of  similar  scenes 
in  a  distant  and  far  different  land.  After  we  had  been 
advancing  for  several  hours  through  passages  always  narrow, 
often  obstructed  and  difficult,  I  saw  at  a  little  distance  on  our 
right  a  narrow  opening  between  two  high  wooded  precipices. 
All  within  seemed  darkness  and  mj^stery.  In  the  mood  in 
which  I  found  myself  something  strongly  impelled  me  to 
enter.  Passing  over  the  intervening  space  I  guided  m}^  horse 
through  the  rocky  portal,  and  as  I  did  so  instinctivel}^  drew 
the  covering  from  my  rifle,  half  expecting  that  some  unknown 
evil  lay  in  ambush  within  those  drear^^  recesses.  The  place 
was  shut  in  among  tall  cliffs,  and  so  deeply  shadowed  by  a 
host  of  old  pine  trees  that,  though  the  sun  shone  bright  on  the 
side  of  the  mountain,  nothing  but  a  dim  twilight  could  pene- 
trate within.  As  far  as  I  could  see  it  had  no  tenants  except 
a  few  hawks  and  owls,  who,  dismayed  at  my  intrusion,  flap])ed 
hoarsely  away  among  the  shagg}^  branches.  I  moved  for- 
ward determined  to  explore  the  mystery  to  the  bottom,  and 
soon  became  involved  among  the  pines.  Tlie  genius  of  the 
place  exercised  a  strange  influence  upon  my  mind.  Its 
faculties  were  stimulated  into  extraordinary  activity,  and  as 
I  passed  along  many  half-forgotten  incidents,  and  the  images 
of  persons  and  things  far  distant,  rose  rapidly  before  me  with 
surprising  distinctness.  In  that  perilous  wilderness,  eight 
hundred  miles  removed  beyond  the  faintest  vestige  of  civiliza- 
tion, the  scenes  of  another  hemisphere,  the  seat  of  ancient 
refinement  passed  before  me  more  like  a  succession  of  vivid 
paintings  than  any  mere  dreams  of  the  fanc^^  I  saw  the 
church  of  St.  Peter's  illumined  on  the  evening  of  Easter  Da}^, 
the  whole  majestic  pile,  from  the  cross  to  the  foundation  stone, 
penciled  in  fire  and  shedding  a  radiance,  like  the  serene  light 
of  the  moon,  on  the  sea  of  upturned  faces  below.  I  saw  the 
peak  of  Mount  Etna  towering  above  its  inky  mantle  of  clouds 
and  lightly  curling  its  Avreaths  of  milk-white  smoke  against 
the  soft  sk}^  flushed  with  the  Sicilian  sunset.  I  saw  also  the 
gloomy  vaulted  passages  and  the  narrow  cells  of  the  Passionist 
convent  where  I  once  had  sojourned  for  a  few  daj^s  with  the 
fanatical  monks,  its  pale  stern  inmates  in  their  robes  of  black, 
a-nd  the  grated  window  from  whence  I  could  look  out,  a  for- 


THE  CALTFOUNTA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  215 

bidde.n  induli^ence,  upon  the  melancholy  Coliseum  and  the 
crumbling  ruins  of  the  Eternal  City.  Tiie  mighty  glaciers  of 
the  Sj)lUgen  too  rose  before  me,  gleaming  in  the  sun  like 
polished  silver,  and  those  terrible  solitudes,  the  birthplace  of 
the  Rhine,  where  bursting  from  the  bowels  of  its  native 
mountains  it  lashes  and  foams  down  the  rocky  abyss  into  the 
little  valley  of  Andeer.  These  recollections,  and  many  more 
crowded  upon  me,  until  remembering  that  it  was  hardly  wise 
to  remain  long  in  such  a  place,  I  mounted  again  and  retraced 
my  steps.  Issuing  from  between  the  rocks  I  saw  a  few  rods 
before  me  the  men,  women,  and  children,  dogs  and  horses, 
still  filing  slowly  across  the  little  glen.  A  bare  round  hill 
rose  directly  above  them.  I  rode  to  the  top,  and  from  this 
point  I  could  look  down  on  the  savage  procession  as  it  passed 
just  beneath  ni}''  feet,  and  far  on  the  left  I  could  see  its  thin 
and  broken  line,  visible  onl}^  at  intervals,  stretching  away  for 
miles  among  the  mountains.  On  the  farthest  ridge  horsemen 
were  still  descending  like  mere  specks  in  the  distance. 

I  remained  on  the  hill  until  all  had  passed,  and  then,  de- 
scending, followed  after  them.  A  little  farther  on  I  found  a 
very  small  meadow,  set  deeply  among  steep  mountains  ;  and 
here  the  whole  village  had  encamped.  The  little  spot  was 
crowded  witli  the  confused  and  disorderly  host.  Some  of  the 
lodges  were  already  com])letely  prepared,  or  the  squaws  perhaps 
were  busy  in  drawing  the  heavy  coverings  of  skin  over  the 
bare  poles.  Others  were  as  yet  mere  skeletons,  while  others 
still — poles,  covering,  and  all — lay  scattered  in  complete  dis- 
order on  the  ground  among  buffalo  robes,  bales  of  meat,  domes- 
tic utensils,  harness,  and  weapons.  Squaws  were  screaming  to 
one  another,  horses  rearing  and  plunging,  dogs  yelping,  eager 
to  be  disburdened  of  their  loads,  while  the  fluttering  of  feathers 
and  the  gleam  of  barbaric  ornaments  added  liveliness  to  the 
scene.  The  small  children  ran  about  amid  the  crowd,  while 
many  of  the  boys  were  scrambling  among  the  overhanging 
rocks,  and  standing,  with  their  little  bows  in  their  hands,  look- 
ing down  upon  the  restless  throng.  In  contrast  with  the  gen- 
eral confusion,  a  circle  of  old  men  and  warriors  sat  in  the 
midst,  smoking  in  i)rofound  indifference  and  tranquillity.  The 
disorder  at  length  subsided.  The  horses  were  driven  away  to 
feed  along  the  adjacent  valley,  and  the  camp  assumed  an  air 
of  listless  repose.  It  was  scarcely  past  noon  ;  a  vast  white 
canopy  of  smoke  from  a  burning  forest  to  the  eastward  over- 
hung the  place,  and  partially  obscured  the  sun  ;  yet  the  heat 
was  almost  insupportable.     'JMie  lodges  stood  crowded  together 


216  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

without  order  in  the  narrow  space.  Each  was  a  perfect  hot- 
house, within  which  the  lazy  proprietor  lay  sleeping.  The 
camp  was  silent  as  death.  Nothing  stirred  except  now  and 
then  an  old  woman  passing  from  lodge  to  lodge.  The  girls 
and  young  men  sat  together  in  groups  under  the  pine  trees 
upon  the  surrounding  heights.  The  dogs  laj^  panting  on  the 
ground,  too  lazy  even  to  growl  at  the  white  man.  At  the 
entrance  of  the  meadow  there  was  a  cold  spring  among  the 
rocks,  completely  overshadowed  by  tall  trees  and  dense  under- 
growth. In  this  cool  and  shady  retreat  a  number  of  girls  were 
assembled,  sitting  togetlier  on  rocks  and  fallen  logs,  discussing 
the  latest  gossip  of  the  village,  or  laughing  and  throwing  water 
with  their  hands  at  the  intruding  Meneaska.  The  minutes 
seemed  lengthened  into  hours.  I  lay  for  a  long  time  under  a 
tree  studying  the  Ogallalla  tongue,  with  the  zealous  instruc- 
tions of  my  friend  the  Panther.  When  we  were  both  tired  of 
tins  I  went  and  lay  down  by  the  side  of  a  deep,  clear  pool 
formed  by  the  water  of  the  spring.  A  shoal  of  little  fishes  of 
about  a  pin's  length  were  playing  in  it,  sporting  together,  as  it 
seemed,  very  amicably  ;  but  on  closer  observation,  I  saw  that 
they  were  engaged  in  a  cannibal  warfare  among  themselves. 
Now  and  tlien  a  small  one  would  fall  a  victim,  and  immedi- 
ately disappear  down  the  maw  of  his  voracious  conqueror. 
Every  moment,  however,  the  tyrant  of  the  pool,  a  monster 
about  three  inches  long,  with  staring  goggle  eyes,  would  slowly 
issue  forth  with  quivering  fins  and  tail  from  under  the  shelv- 
ing bank.  The  small  fry  at  this  would  suspend  their  hostilities, 
and  scatter  in  a  panic  at  the  appearance  of  overwhelming  force. 

"  Soft-hearted  philanthropists,"  thought  I,  "  may  sigh  long 
for  their  peaceful  millennium  ;  for  from  minnows  up  to  men, 
life  is  an  incessant  battle." 

Evening  approached  at  last,  the  tall  mountain-tops  around 
were  still  gay  and  bright  in  sunshine,  while  our  deep  glen  was 
completely  shadowed.  I  left  the  camp  and  ascended  a  ndgli- 
boring  hill,  whose  rocky  summit  commanded  a  wide  view  over 
the  surrounding  wilderness.  The  sun  was  still  glaring- 
through  the  stiff  pines  on  the  ridge  of  the  western  mountain. 
In  a  moment  he  was  gone,  and  as  the  landscape  rapidly 
darkened,  I  turned  again  toward  the  village.  As  I  descended 
the  hill,  the  howling  of  wolves  and  the  barking  of  foxes 
came  up  out  of  the  dim  woods  from  far  and  near.  The  camp 
was  glowing  with  a  multitude  of  fires,  and  alive  with  dusk}^ 
naked  figures,  whose  tall  shadows  flitted  among  the  surround- 
ing crags. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL.  217 

I  found  a  circle  of  smokers  seated  in  tlieir  usual  place  ; 
that  is,  on  the  ground  before  the  lodge  of  a  certain  warrior, 
who  seemed  to  be  generally  known  for  his  social  qualities.  I 
sat  down  to  smoke  a  parting  pipe  with  my  savage  friends. 
That  day  was  the  1st  of  August,  on  which  I  had  promised  to 
meet  Shaw  at  Fort  Laramie.  The  Fort  was  less  than  two 
days' journey  distant,  and  that  my  friend  need  not  suffer  anx- 
iety on  my  account,  I  resolved  to  push  forward  as  rapidly  as 
possible  to  the  place  of  meeting.  I  went  to  look  after  the 
Hail-Storm,  and  having  found  him,  I  offered  him  a  handful  of 
hawks'-bells  and  a  paper  of  vermilion,  on  condition  that  he 
would  guide  me  in  the  morning  through  the  mountains  within 
sight  of  Laramie  Creek. 

The  Hail-Storm  ejaculated  "  IIoio  !  "  and  accepted  the  gift. 
Nothing  more  was  said  on  either  side  ;  tlie  matter  was  settled, 
and  I  lay  down  to  sleep  in  Kongra-Tonga's  lodge. 

Long  before  daylight  Raymond  shook  me  by  the  shoulder. 

"  Everything  is  ready,"  he  said. 

I  went  out.  The  morning  was  chill,  damp,  and  dark  ;  and 
the  whole  camp  seemed  asleep.  The  Hail-Storm  sat  on  horse- 
back before  the  lodge,  and  my  mare  Pauline  and  the  mule 
which  Raymond  rode  were  picketed  near  it.  We  saddled  and 
made  our  other  arrangements  for  the  journey,  but  before  these 
were  completed  tlie  camp  began  to  stir,  and  the  lodge-cover- 
ings fluttered  and  rustled  as  the  squaws  pulled  them  down  in 
preparation  for  departure.  Just  as  the  light  began  to  appear 
we  left  the  ground,  passing  up  througli  a  narrow  opening 
among  the  rocks  which  led  eastward  out  of  the  meadow. 
Gaining  the  top  of  tliis  passage,  I  turned  round  and  sat  look- 
ing back  upon  the  camp,  dimly  visible  in  the  gray  light  of 
the  morning.  All  was  alive  with  the  bustle  of  preparation. 
I  turned  away,  half  unwilling  to  take  a  final  leave  of  my 
savage  associates.  We  turned  to  the  right,  passing  among 
rock's  and  pine  trees  so  dark  that  for  a  while  we  could  scarcely 
see  our  way.  The  country  in  front  w\as  wild  and  broken, 
half  hill,  half  plain,  partly  open  and  partly  covered  with 
woods  of  pine  and  oak.  Barriers  of  loftj'^  mountains  encom- 
passed it  ;  the  woods  were  fresh  and  cool  in  the  early  morn- 
ing ;  the  peaks  of  the  mountains  were  wreathed  with  mist, 
and  sluggish  vapors  were  entangled  among  the  forests  upon 
their  sides.  At  length  the  black  pinnacle  of  the  tallest 
mountain  was  tipped  with  gold  by  the  rising  sun.  About 
that  time  the  Hail-Storm,  wlio  rode  in  front,  gave  a  low  ex- 
clamation.    Some  large  animal  leaped  up  from  among  the 


218  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

bushes,  and  an  elk.  as  I  thought,  his  horns  thrown  back  over 
his  neck,  darted  past  us  across  the  open  space,  and  bounded 
like  a  mad  thing  away  among  the  adjoining  phies.  Raymond 
was  soon  out  of  his  saddle,  but  before  he  could  lire,  the  animal 
was  full  two  hundred  yards  distant.  The  ball  struck  its  mark, 
though  much  too  low  for  mortal  effect.  The  elk,  however, 
wheeled  in  its  flight,  and  ran  at  full  speed  among  the  trees, 
nearly  at  right  angles  to  his  former  course.  I  fired  and  broke 
his  shoulder  ;  still  he  moved  on,  limping  down  into  the  neigh- 
boring woody  hollow,  whither  the  young  Indian  followed  and 
killed  him.  When  we  reached  the  spot  we  discovered  him 
to  be  no  elk,  but  a  black-tailed  deer,  an  animal  nearly  twice 
the  size  of  the  common  deei",  and  quite  unknown  to  the  East. 
We  began  to  cut  him  up  ;  the  reports  of  the  rifles  had 
reached  the  ears  of  the  Indians,  and  before  our  task  was  fin- 
ished several  of  them  came  to  the  spot.  Leaving  the  hide  of 
the  deer  to  the  Hail-Storm,  we  hung  as  much  of  the  meat  as 
we  wanted  behind  our  saddles,  left  the  rest  to  the  Indians, 
and  resumed  our  journe3^  Meanwhile  the  village  w^as  on  its 
way,  and  had  gone  so  far  that  to  get  in  advance  of  it  was 
impossible.  Therefore  we  directed  our  course  so  as  to  strike 
its  line  of  march  at  the  nearest  point.  In  a  short  time, 
through  the  dark  trunks  of  the  j^ines,  we  could  see  the  figures 
of  the  Indians  as  they  passed.  Once  more  we  were  among 
them.  They  were  moving  with  even  more  than  their  usual 
precipitation,  crowded  close  together  in  a  narrow  pass  between 
rocks  and  old  pine  trees.  We  were  on  the  eastern  descent  of 
the  mountain,  and  soon  came  to  a  rough  and  diflicult  defile, 
leading  down  a  very  steep  declivity.  The  whole  swarm 
poured  down  together,  filling  the  rocky  passage-wa}"  like 
some  turbulent  mountain  stream.  Tiie  mountains  before  us 
w^ere  on  fire,  and  had  been  so  for  weeks.  The  view  in  front 
was  obscured  by  a  vast  dim  sea  of  smoke  and  vapor,  while  on 
either  hand  the  tall  cliffs,  bearing  aloft  their  crest  of  pines, 
thrust  their  heads  boldly  through  it,  and  the  sharp  pinnacles 
and  broken  ridges  of  the  mountains  bej^ond  them  were  faintl}^ 
traceable  as  tji rough  a  veil.  The  scene  in  itself  w^as  most 
grand  and  imposing,  but  with  the  savage  multitude,  the 
armed  warriors,  the  naked  children,  the  gayh^  appareled 
girls,  ])ouring  impetuousl}^  down  tlie  lieights,  it  would  have 
formed  a  noble  subject  for  a  painter,  and  onh^  the  pen  of  a 
Scott  could  have  done  it  justice  in  description. 

We  passed  over  a  burnt  tract  where  the  ground  was  hot 
beneath  tlie  horses'  feet,  and  between  the  blazing  sides  of  two 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGOX  TRAIL.  219 

mountains.  Before  long  we  had  descended  to  a  softer  region, 
where  we  found  a  succession  of  little  valleys  watered  by  a 
stream,  along  the  borders  of  which  grew  abundance  of  wild 
gooseberries  and  currants,  and  the  children  and  many  of  the 
men  straggled  from  the  line  of  march  to  gather  tliem  as  we 
l)assed  along.  Descending  still  farther,  tlie  view  changed 
rapidly.  The  burning  mountains  were  beliind  us,  and  through 
the  open  valleys  in  front  we  could  see  the  oceanlike  prairie, 
stretching  be^^ond  the  sight.  After  passing  through  a  line  of 
trees  that  skirted  the  brook,  the  Indians  filed  out  upon  the 
plains.  I  was  thirsty  and  knelt  down  by  the  little  stream  to 
drink.  As  I  mounted  again  I  very  carelessly'  left  my  rifle 
among  the  grass,  and  my  thoughts  being  otherwise  absorbed, 
I  rode  for  some  distance  before  discovering  its  absence.  As 
the  reader  may  conceive,  I  lost  no  time  in  turning  about  and 
galloping  back  in  search  of  it.  Passing  the  line  of  Indians,  I 
watched  ever}^  warrior  as  he  rode  by  me  at  a  canter,  and  at 
length  discovered  ni}'  rifle  in  the  hands  of  one  of  them,  who, 
on  my  approaching  to  claim  it,  immediately  gave  it  up.  Hav- 
ing no  other  means  of  acknowledging  the  obligation,  I  took 
off  one  of  my  spurs  and  gave  it  to  him.  He  was  greatly 
delighted,  looking  upon  it  as  a  distinguished  mark  of  favor, 
and  immediately  held  out  his  foot  for  me  to  buckle  it  on.  As 
soon  as  I  had  done  so,  he  struck  it  with  all  his  force  into  the 
side  of  his  horse,  who  gave  a  violent  leap.  The  Indian  laughed 
and  spurred  harder  than  before.  At  this  the  horse  shot  away 
like  an  arrow,  amid  the  screams  and  laughter  of  the  squaws, 
and  the  ejaculations  of  the  men,  who  exclaimed  ;  "  Wash- 
tay  ! — Good  !  "  at  the  potent  effect  of  my  gift.  The  Indian 
had  no  saddle,  and  nothing  in  place  of  a  bridle  excei)t  a  leather 
string  tied  round  the  horse's  jaw.  The*  animal  was  of  course 
wholly  uncontrollable,  and  stretched  away  at  full  speed  over 
the  prairie,  till  he  and  his  rider  vanished  behind  a  distant 
swell.  I  never  saw  the  man  again,  but  I  presume  no  harm  came 
to  him.     An  Indian  on  horseback  has  more  lives  than  a  cat. 

The  village  encamped  on  the  scorching  prairie,  close  to  the 
foot  of  the  mountains.  The  heat  was  most  inte^ise  and  pene- 
trating. The  coverings  of  the  lodges  were  raised  a  foot  or 
more  from  the  ground,  in  order  to  i)rocure  some  circulation  of 
air  ;  and  Re3'nal  thought  proper  to  lay  aside  his  trapper's 
dress  of  buckskin  and  assume  the  very  scanty  costume  of  an 
Indian.  Thus  elegantly  attired,  he  stretched  himself  in  his 
lodge  on  a  buffalo  rolx,  alternately  cursing  the  heat  and  pnf- 
ling  at  the  pipe  which   he  and  I  j)Mssed   between  us.     There 


220  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

was  present  also  a  select  circle  of  Indian  friends  and  relatives. 
A  small  boiled  puppy  was  served  up  as  a  parting  feast,  to 
which  was  added,  by  way  of  dessert,  a  wooden  bowl  of  goose- 
berries, from  the  mountains. 

"  Look  there,"  said  Reynal,  pointing  out  of  the  opening  of 
his  lodge  ;  "do  you  see  that  line  of  buttes  about  fifteen  miles 
off  ?  Well,  now,  do  you  see  that  farthest  one,  with  the  white 
speck  on  the  face  of  it  ?  Do  you  think  you  ever  saw  it 
before?" 

"  It  looks  to  me,"  said  I,  "  like  the  hill  that  we  were  camped 
under  when  we  were  on  Laramie  Creek,  six  or  eight  Aveeks 
ago." 

"  You've  hit  it,"  answered  Reynal. 

"Go,  and  bring  in  the  animals,  Raymond,"  said  I; 
"  we'll  camp  there  to-night,  and  start  for  the  fort  in  the 
morning." 

The  mare  and  the  mule  were  soon  before  the  lodge.  We 
saddled  them,  and  in  the  meantime  a  number  of  Indians  col- 
lected about  us.  The  virtues  of  Pauline,  my  strong,  fleet,  and 
hardy  little  mare,  were  well  known  in  camp,  and  several  of  the 
visitors  were  mounted  upon  good  horses  which  they  had 
brought  me  as  presents.  I  promptly  declined  their  offers,  since 
accepting  them  would  have  involved  the  necessity  of  transfer- 
ring poor  Pauline  into  their  barbarous  hands.  We  took  leave 
of  Reynal,  but  not  of  the  Indians,  who  are  accustomed  to  dis- 
pense with  such  superfluous  ceremonies.  Leaving  tlie  camp 
we  rode  straight  over  the  prairie  toward  the  white-faced  bluff, 
whose  pale  ridges  swelled  gently  against  the  horizon,  like  a 
cloud.  An  Indian  went  with  us,  whose  name  I  forget,  though 
the  ugliness  of  his  face  and  the  ghastly  width  of  liis  mouth 
dwell  vividly  in  my  recollection.  The  antelope  were  numer- 
ous, but  we  did  not  heed  them.  We  rode  directly  toward  our 
destination,  over  the  arid  plains  and  barren  hills  ;  until,  late 
in  the  afternoon,  half  spent  with  heat,  thirst,  and  fatigue,  we 
saw  a  gladdening  sight ;  the  long  line  of  trees  and  the  deep 
gulf  that  mark  the  course  of  Laramie  Creek.  Passing  through 
the  growth  of  huge  dilapidated  old  cotton-wood  trees  that  bor- 
dered the  creek,  we  rode  across  to  the  other  side.  The  rapid 
and  foaming  waters  were  filled  with  fish  playing  and  splashing 
in  the  shallows.  As  we  gained  the  farther  bank,  our  horses 
turned  eagerly  to  drink,  and  we,  kneeling  on  the  sand,  followed 
their  example.  We  had  not  gone  far  before  the  scene  began 
to  grow  familiar. 

"  We  are  getting  near  home,  Raymond,"  said  I, 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL.  221 

There  stood  the  Big  Tree  under  which  we  had  encamped  so 
long  ;  there  were  the  white  cliffs  that  used  to  look  down  upon 
our  tent  wlien  it  stood  at  the  bend  of  the  creek  ;  there  was 
the  meadow  in  which  our  horses  had  grazed  for  weeks,  and  a 
little  farther  on,  the  prairie-dog  village  where  I  had  beguiled 
many  a  languid  hour  in  persecuting  the  unfortunate  inhab- 
itants. 

"  We  are  going  to  catch  it  now,"  said  Raymond,  turning  his 
broad,  vacant  face  n[)  toward  the  sky. 

In  truth  the  landscape,  tlie  cliffs  and  the  meadow,  the 
stream  and  the  groves,  were  darkening  fast.  Black  masses  of 
cloud  were  swelling  up  in  the  south,  and  tlic  thunder  was 
growling  ominously. 

"  We  will  camp  there,"  I  said,  pointing  to  a  dense  grove  of 
trees  lower  down  the  stream.  Raymond  and  I  turned  toward 
it,  but  tlie  Indian  stopped  and  called  earnestly  after  us.  When 
we  demanded  what  was  the  matter,  he  said  that  the  ghosts  of 
two  warriors  were  always  among  those  trees,  and  that  if  we 
slept  there,  they  would  scream  and  throw  stones  at  us  all 
night,  and  perhaps  steal  our  horses  before  morning.  Think- 
ing it  as  well  to  humor  him,  we  left  behind  us  the  haunt  of 
these  extraordinary  ghosts,  and  passed  on  toward  Chugwater, 
riding  at  full  gallop,  for  the  big  drops  began  to  patter  down. 
Soon  we  came  in  sight  of  the  poplar  saplings  that  grew  about 
the  mouth  of  the  little  stream.  We  leaped  to  the  ground, 
threw  off  our  saddles,  turned  our  horses  loose,  and  drawing 
our  knives,  began  to  slash  among  the  bushes  to  cut  twigs  and 
branches  for  making  a  shelter  against  the  rain.  Bending 
down  the  taller  saplings  as  they  grew,  we  piled  the  3^oung 
slioots  upon  them,  and  thus  made  a  convenient  penthouse, 
but  all  our  labor  was  useless.  The  storm  scarcely  touched  us. 
Half  a  mile  on  our  right  the  rain  was  pouring  down  like  a 
cataract,  and  the  thunder  roared  over  the  prairie  like  a  bat- 
tery of  cannon  ;  while  we  by  good  fortune  received  only  a 
few  heavy  drops  from  the  skirt  of  the  passing  cloud.  The 
weather  cleared  and  the  sun  set  gloriously.  Sitting  close 
under  our  leafy  canopy,  we  proceeded  to  discuss  a  substantial 
meal  of  wasna  wldch  Weah-Washtay  had  given  me.  The 
Indian  had  brought  with  him  his  pipe  and  a  bag  of  shoiigsasha  ; 
so  before  lying  down  to  sleep,  we  sat  for  some  time  smoking 
together.  Previously,  however,  our  wide-mouthed  friend  had 
taken  the  precaution  of  carefully  examining  the  neighborhood. 
He  reported  that  eight  men,  counting  thom  on  his  fingers,  had 
been  encamped  there  not  long  before.     Bisouette,  Paul  Dorion, 


222  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

Antoiiie  Le  Rouge,  Richardson,  and  four  others,  whose  names 
he  could  not  tell.  All  this  proved  strictly  .correct.  By  what 
instinct  he  had  arrived  at  such  accurate  conclusions,  I  am 
utterly  at  a  loss  to  divine. 

It  was  still  quite  dark  when  I  awoke  and  called  Raymond. 
The  Indian  was  already  gone,  having  chosen  to  go  on  before 
us  to  the  Fort.  Setting  out  after  him,  we  rode  for  some  time 
in  complete  darkness,  and  when  the  sun  at  length  rose,  glow- 
ing like  a  fiery  ball  of  copper,  we  were  ten  miles  distant  from 
the  Fort.  At  length,  from  the  broken  summit  of  a  tall  sandy 
bluff  w^e  could  see  Fort  Laramie,  miles  before  us,  standing  by 
tlie  side  of  the  stream  like  a  little  graj^  speck  in  the  midst  of 
the  boundless  desolation.  I  stopped  m}-  horse,  and  sat  for  a 
moment  looking  down  upon  it.  It  seemed  to  me  the  very  center 
of  comfort  and  civilization.  We  were  not  long  in  approaching 
it,  for  we  rode  at  speed  the  greater  part  of  the  way.  Laramie 
Creek  still  intervened  between  us  and  the  friendly  walls.  En- 
tering the  water  at  the  point  where  we  had  struck  upon  the 
bank,  we  raised  our  feet  to  the  saddle  behind  us,  and  thus, 
kneeling  as  it  were  on  horseback,  passed  drj^-shod  through  the 
swift  current.  As  we  rode  up  the  bank,  a  number  of  men 
appeared  in  the  gatew^a3\  Three  of  them  came  forward  to 
meet  us.  In  a  moment  I  distinguished  Shaw  ;  Henry  Chatillon 
followed  W'ith  his  face  of  manly  simplicity  and  frankness,  and 
Delorier  came  last,  with  a  broad  grin  of  welcome.  The  meet- 
ing was  not  on  either  side  one  of  mere  ceremon3\  For  mj 
own  part,  the  change  was  a  most  agreeable  one  from  the  society 
of  savages  and  men  little  better  than  savages,  to  that  of  my 
gallant  and  high-minded  companion  and  our  noble-hearted 
guide.  M}^  appearance  was  equally  gratifying  to  Shaw,  who 
was  beginning  to  entertain  some  ver}^  uncomfortable  surmises 
concerning  me. 

Bordeaux  greeted  me  ver^^  cordially,  and  shouted  to  the 
cook.  This  functionary  was  a  new  acquisition,  having  lately 
come  from  Fort  Pierre  with  the  trading  wagons.  Whatever 
skill  he  might  have  boasted,  he  had  not  the  most  promising 
materials  to  exercise  it  upon.  He  set  before  me,  however,  a 
breakfast  of  biscuit,  coffee,  and  salt  pork.  It  seemed  like  a 
new  phase  of  existence,  to  be  seated  once  more  on  a  bench,  with 
a  knife  and  fork,  a  plate  and  teacup,  and  something  res(  mbling 
a  table  before  me.  The  coffee  seemed  delicious,  and  the  bread 
was  a  most  welcome  novelty,  since  for  three  weeks  I  had  eaten 
scarcely  anything  but  meat,  and  that  for  the  most  part  witliout 
salt.     The  meal  also  had  the  relish  of  good  company,  for  oppo- 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OBEGON  TRAIL.  223 

site  to  me  sat  Shaw  in  elegant  (lisbabille.  If  one  is  anxious 
tlioronghly  to  appreciate  the  value  of  a  congenial  companion, 
he  has  only  to  spend  a  few  weeks  by  himself  in  an  Ogallalla 
village.  And  if  he  can  contrive  to  add  to  his  seclusion  a  de- 
bilitating and  somewhat  critical  illness,  his  perceptions  upon 
tliis  subject  will  be  rendered  considerably  more  vivid. 

Shaw  had  been  upward  of  two  weeks  at  the  Fort.  I  found 
liim  established  in  his  old  quarters,  a  large  apartment  usually 
occupied  by  the  absent  bourgeois.  In  one  corner  was  a  soft 
and  luxurious  pile  of  excellent  buffalo  robes,  and  here  I  lay 
down.     Shaw  brought  me  three  books. 

"  Here,"  said  he,  "  is  j'our  Shakspere  and  Byron,  and  here 
is  the  Old  Testament,  wliich  has  as  much  poetry  in  it  as  the 
other  two  put  together." 

I  chose  the  worst  of  the  three,  and  for  the  greater  part  of 
that  da}^  I  lay  on  the  buffalo  robes,  fairly  reveling  in  the  crea- 
tions of  that  resplendent  genius  which  has  achieved  no  more 
signal  triumph  than  that  of  half  beguiling  us  to  forget  the  piti- 
ful and  unmanly  character  of  its  possessor. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

THE    LONELY   JOURNEY. 

Of  antres  vast,  and  deserts  idle. 
Rough  quarries,  rocks,  and  hills  whose  lieads  touch  heaven. 

Othello. 

Ont  the  day  of  my  arrival  at  Fort  Laramie,  Shaw  and  I 
were  lounging  on  two  buffalo  robes  in  the  large  apartment  hos- 
pitably assigned  to  us  ;  Henry  Chatillon  also  was  present,  busy 
about  the  harness  and  weapons,  which  had  been  brought  into 
the  room,  and  two  or  three  Indians  were  crouching  on  the  floor, 
eying  us  with  their  fixed,  unwavering  gaze. 

"  I  have  been  well  off  here,"  said  Shaw,  '*  in  all  respects  but 
one  ;  there  is  no  good  sJiongsasha  to  be  had  for  love  or  money." 

I  gave  him  a  small  leatlier  bag  containing  some  of  excellent 
quality,  which  I  had  brought  from  the  Black  Hills.  "Now, 
Henry,"  said  he,  "hand  me  Papin's  chopping  board,  or  give  it 
to  that  Indian,  and  let  him  cut  the  mixture  ;  they  understand 
it  better  than  any  white  man." 

The  Indian,  without  saying  a  word,  mixed  the  bark  and  the 
tobacco  in  due  proportions,  filled  the  pipe  and  lighted  it.  This 
done,  my  companion  and  I  proceeded  to  deliberate  on  our  future 
course  of  proceeding  ;  first,  however,  Shaw  acquainted  me 


224  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

with  some  incidents  which  had  occurred  at  the  fort  during  my 
absence. 

About  a  week  previous  four  men  had  arrived  from  beyond 
the  mountains  :  Sublette,  Reddick,  and  two  others.  Just 
before  reaching  the  fort  they  had  met  a  large  party  of  Indians, 
chiefly  young  men.  All  of  them  belonged  to  the  village  of 
our  old  friend  Smoke,  who,  witli  his  whole  band  of  adherents, 
professed  the  greatest  friendship  for  the  whites.  The 
travelers  therefore  approached,  and  began  to  converse  witli- 
out  the  least  suspicion.  Suddenly,  however,  their  bridles 
were  violently  seized,  and  they  were  ordered  to  dismount. 
Instead  of  complying,  they  struck  their  horses  witli  full  force, 
and  broke  away  from  tlie  Indians.  As  they  galloped  off  they 
heard  a  yell  behind  them,  mixed  with  a  burst  of  derisive 
laughter,  and  the  reports  of  several  guns.  None  of  them  were 
hurt,  though  Reddick's  bridle  rein  was  cut  by  a  bullet  w^ithin 
an  inch  of  liis  hand.  After  this  taste  of  Indian  hostility  they 
felt  for  the  moment  no  disposition  to  encounter  farther  risks. 
They  intended  to  pursue  the  route  southward  along  the  foot 
of  the  mountains  to  Bent's  Fort  ;  and  as  our  plans  coincided 
with  theirs,  they  proposed  to  join  forces.  Finding,  however, 
that  I  did  not  return,  they  grew  impatient  of  inaction,  for- 
got their  late  escape,  and  set  out  without  us,  promising  to 
wait  our  arrival  at  Bent's  Fort.  From  thence  we  were  to 
make  the  long  journey  to  the  settlements  in  company,  as  the 
path  was  not  a  little  dangerous,  being  infested  by  hostile 
Pawnees  and  Comanches. 

We  expected,  on  reaching  Bent's  Fort,  to  find  there  still 
another  re-enforcement.  A  young  Kentuckian  of  the  true 
Kentucky  blood,  generous,  impetuous,  and  a  gentleman  withal, 
had  come  out  to  the  mountains  with  Russel's  party  of  Califor- 
nia emigrants.  One  of  his  chief  objects,  as  he  gave  out,  was 
to  kill  an  Indian  ;  an  exploit  which  he  afterward  succeeded  in 
achieving,  much  to  the  jeopardy  of  ourselves  and  others  who 
liad  to  pass  through  the  country  of  the  dead  Pawnee's  enraged 
relatives.  Having  become  disgusted  with  his  emigrant  asso- 
ciates he  left  them,  and  had  some  time  before  set  out  with  a 
party  of  companions  for  the  head  of  the  Arkansas.  He  sent 
us  previously  a  letter,  intimating  that  he  would  wait  until  we 
arrived  at  Bent's  Fort,  and  accompany  us  thence  to  the  settle- 
ments. "When,  however,  he  came  to  the  fort,  he  found  there  a 
party  of  forty  men  about  to  make  the  homeward  journey. 
He  wisely  preferred  to  avail  himself  of  so  strong  an  escort. 
Mr.  Sublette  and  his  companions  also  set  out,  in  order  to  over- 


THE  CALIFOnmA  AND  OREGON'  TRAIL.  225 

take  this  company  ;  so  that  ou  reacliiug  Bent's  Fort,  some  six 
weeks  after,  we  found  ourselves  deserted  by  our  allies  and 
thrown  once  more  upon  our  own  resources. 

But  I  am  anticipating.  When,  before  leaving  the  settle- 
ment, we  liad  made  inquiries  concerning  this  part  of  the  coun- 
try of  General  Kearny,  Mr.  Mackenzie,  Captain  Wyeth,  and 
others  well  acquainted  with  it,  they  had  all  advised  us  by  no 
means  to  attempt  this  southward  journey  with  fewer  than  fif- 
teen or  twenty  men.  The  danger  consists  in  tiie  chance  of 
encountering  Indian  war  parties.  Sometimes  throughout  the 
whole  length  of  the  journey  (a  distance  of  350  miles)  one 
does  not  meet  a  single  human  being  ;  frequently,  however, 
the  route  is  beset  by  Arapahoes  and  other  unfriendly  tribes  ; 
in  which  case  the  scalp  of  the  adventurer  is  in  imminent  peril. 
As  to  the  escort  of  fifteen  or  twenty  men,  such  a  force  of 
whites  could  at  that  time  scarcely  be  collected  by  the  whole 
country  ;  and  had  the  case  been  otherwise,  the  expense  of 
securing  them,  together  with  the  necessary  number  of  horses, 
would  have  been  extremely  heavy.  We  had  resolved,  how- 
ever, upon  pursuing  this  southward  course.  There  were, 
indeed,  two  other  routes  from  Fort  Laramie  ;  but  both  of 
these  were  less  interesting,  and  neither  was  free  from  danger. 
Being  unable  therefore  to  procure  the  fifteen  or  twenty  men 
recommended,  we  determined  to  set  out  with  those  we  had 
already  in  our  employ  :  Henry  Chatillon,  Delorier,  and  Ray- 
mond. The  men  themselves  made  no  objection,  nor  would 
they  have  made  any  had  the  journey  been  more  dangerous  ; 
for  "Henry  was  without  fear,  and  the  other  two  without  thought. 

Shaw  and  I  were  much  better  fitted  for  this  mode  of  travel- 
ing than  we  had  been  on  betaking  ourselves  to  the  prairies  for 
the  first  time  a  few  months  before.  The  daily  routine  had 
ceased  to  be  a  novelty.  All  the  details  of  the  journey  and  the 
camp  had  become  familiar  to  us.  We  had  seen  life  under  a 
new  aspect;  the  human  biped  had  been  reduced  to  his  primi- 
tive condition.  We  had  lived  without  law  to  protect,  a  roof 
to  shelter,  or  garment  of  cloth  to  cover  us.  One  of  us  at  least 
had  been  without  bread,  and  without  salt  to  season  his  food. 
Our  idea  of  what  is  indis])ensablc  to  human  existence  and 
enjoyment  had  been  wonderfully  curtailed,  and  a  horse,  a  rifle, 
and  a  knife  seemed  to  make  up  the  whole  of  life's  necessaries. 
For  these  once  obtained,  together  with  the  skill  to  use  them, 
all  else  that  is  essential  would  follow  in  their  train,  and  a  host 
of  luxuries  besides.  One  other  lesson  our  short  prairie  ex- 
perience had  taught  us  ;  that  of  profound  contentment  in  thS 


226  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

present,  and  utter  contempt  for  what  the  future  might  bring 
forth. 

These  principles  established,  we  prepared  to  leave  Fort 
Laramie.  On  the  fourth  day  of  August,  early  in  the  after- 
noon, we  bade  a  final  adieu  to  its  hospitable  gateway.  Again 
Sliaw  and  I  were  riding  side  by  side  on  the  prairie.  For  tlie 
first  fifty  miles  we  had  companions  with  us  ;  Troche,  a  little 
trapper,  and  Rouville,  a  nondescript  in  tlie  employ  of  the  Fur 
Company,  who  were  going  to  join  the  trader  Bisonette  at  his 
encampment  near  the  head  of  Horse  Creek.  We  rode  only  six 
or  eight  miles  tliat  afternoon  before  we  came  to  a  little  brook 
traversing  the  barren  prairie.  All  along  its  course  grew 
copses  of  young  wild-cherry  trees,  loaded  with  ripe  fruit,  and 
almost  concealing  the  gliding  thread  of  water  with  tlieir  dense 
growtii,  while  on  each  side  rose  swells  of  rich  green  grass. 
Here  we  encamped  ;  and  being  much  too  indolent  to  pitch  our 
tent,  we  flung  our  saddles  on  the  ground,  spread  a  pair  of 
buffalo  robes,  lay  down  upon  them,  and  began  to  smoke. 
Meanwhile,  Delorier  busied  himself  with  his  hissing  frying 
pan,  and  Raymond  stood  guard  over  the  band  of  grazing 
horses.  Delorier  had  an  active  assistant  in  Rouville,  who  pro- 
fessed great  skill  in  the  culinary  art,  and  seizing  upon  a  fork, 
began  to  lend  his  zealous  aid  in  making  ready  supper.  In- 
deed, according  to  his  own  belief,  Rouville  was  a  man  of 
universal  knowledge,  and  he  lost  no  opportunity  to  display 
his  manifold  accomplishments.  He  had  been  a  circus-rider  at 
St.  Louis,  and  once  he  rode  round  Fort  Laramie  on  his  head, 
to  the  utter  bewilderment  of  all  the  Indians.  He  was  also 
noted  as  tlie  wit  of  the  fort  ;  and  as  he  had  considerable 
humor  and  abundant  vivacity,  he  contributed  more  that  night 
to  the  liveliness  of  the  camp  than  all  the  rest  of  the  party  put 
together.  At  one  instant  he  would  be  kneeling  by  Delorier, 
instructing  him  in  the  true  method  of  frying  antelope  steaks, 
then  he  would  come  and  seat  himself  at  our  side,  dilating 
upon  the  orthodox  fashion  of  braiding  up  a  horse's  tail,  tell- 
ing apocryphal  stories  how  he  had  killed  a  buffalo  bull  with 
a  knife,  having  first  cut  off  his  tail  when  at  full  speed,  or  re- 
lating whimsical  anecdotes  of  the  bourgeois  Papin.  At  last 
he  snatched  up  a  volume  of  Shakspere  that  was  lying  on  the 
grass,  and  halted  and  stumbled  through  a  line  or  two  to  prove 
that  he  could  read.  He  went  gamboling  about  the  camp, 
chattering  like  some  frolicksome  ape  ;  and  whatever  he  was 
doing  at  one  moment,  the  presumption  was  a  sure  one  that  he 
would  not  be  doing  it  the  next.     His  companion  Troche  sat 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  227 

silently  on  the  grass,  not  speaking  a  word,  but  keeping  a 
vigilant  eye  on  a  very  ugly  little  Utah  squaw,  of  whom  he 
was  extremely  jealous. 

On  the  next  day  we  traveled  farther,  crossing  the  wide 
sterile  basin  called  Goche's  Hole.  Toward  night  we  be- 
came involved  among  deep  ravines  ;  and  being  also  unable  to 
find  water,  our  journey  was  protracted  to  a  very  late  hour. 
On  the  next  morning  we  had  to  pass  a  long  line  of  bluffs, 
wliose  raw  sides,  wrought  upon  by  rains  and  storms,  were  of 
a  ghastly  whiteness  most  oppressive  to  the  sight.  As  we 
ascended  a  gap  in  these  hills,  the  way  was  marked  by  huge 
footprints,  like  those  of  a  human  giant.  Tiiey  were  the  track 
of  the  grizzly  bear  ;  and  on  the  previous  day  also  we  had 
seen  abundance  of  them  along  the  dry  channels  of  the  streams 
we  had  passed.  Immediately  after  this  we  were  crossing  a 
barren  plain,  spreading  in  long  and  gentle  undulations  to  the 
horizon.  Though  the  sun  was  bright,  there  was  a  light  haze 
in  the  atmosphere.  The  distant  hills  assumed  strange,  dis- 
torted forms,  and  the  edge  of  the  horizon  was  continually  chang- 
ing its  aspect.  Shaw  and  I  were  riding  together,  and  Henry 
Chatillon  was  alone,  a  few  rods  before  us  ;  he  stopped  his  horse 
suddenly,  and  turning  round  with  the  peculiar  eager  and  ear- 
nest expression  which  he  always  wore  when  excited,  he  called 
us  to  come  forward.  We  galloped  to  his  side.  Henry  pointed 
toward  a  black  speck  on  the  gray  swell  of  the  prairie,  appar- 
ently about  a  mile  off.  "  It  must  be  a  bear,"  said  he  ;  "  come, 
now,  we  shall  all  have  some  sport.  Better  fun  to  fight  him 
than  to  fight  an  old  buffalo  bull  ;  grizzly  bear  so  strong  and 
smart." 

So  we  all  galloped  forward  together,  prepared  for  a  hard 
fight ;  for  tliese  bears,  though  clumsy  in  appearance  and 
extremely  large,  are  incredibly  fierce  and  active.  The  swell 
of  the  prairie  concealed  the  black  object  from  our  view. 
Immediately  after  it  appeared  again.  But  now  it  seemed 
quite  near  to  us  ;  and  as  we  looked  at  it  in  astonishment,  it 
suddenly  separated  into  two  parts,  each  of  which  took  wing 
and  flew  away.  We  stopped  our  horses  and  looked  round  at 
Henry,  whose  face  exhibited  a  curious  mixture  of  mirth  and 
mortification.  His  hawk's  eye  had  been  so  completely 
deceived  by  the  peculiar  atmosphere  that  he  had  mistaken 
two  large  crows  at  the  distance  of  fifty  rods  for  a  grizzly  bear 
a  mile  off.  To  the  journey's  end  Henry  never  heard  the  last 
of  the  grizzly  bear  with  wings. 

In  the  afternoon  we  came  to  the  foot  of  a  considerable  hill. 


228  THE  CALIFOTtNIA  AND  OREGON  TttAlL. 

As  we  ascended  it  Rouville  began  to  ask  questions  concern- 
ing our  condition  and  prospects  at  home,  and  Shaw  was  edify- 
ing him  witli  a  minute  account  of  an  imaginar}^  wife  and  child, 
to  which  he  listened  witli  implicit  faith.  Reaching  the  top 
of  the  hill  we  saw  the  windings  of  Horse  Creek  on  the  plains 
below  us,  and  a  little  on  the  left  we  could  distinguish  the  camp 
of  Bisonette  among  the  trees  and  copses  along  the  course  of  the 
stream.  Rouville's  face  assumed  just  then  a  most  ludicrously 
blank  expression.  We  inquired  what  was  the  matter  ;  when 
it  appeared  that  Bisonette  had  sent  him  from  this  place  to 
Fort  Laramie  with  the  sole  object  of  bringing  back  a  supply 
of  tobacco.  Our  rattlebrain  friend,  from  the  time  of  his 
reaching  the  fort  up  to  the  present  moment,  had  entirely  for- 
gotten the  object  of  his  journey,  and  had  ridden  a  dangerous 
hundred  miles  for  nothino-.  Descendino-  to  Horse  Creek  we 
forded  it,  and  on  the  opposite  bank  a  solitarj^  Indian  sat  on 
horseback  under  a  tree.  He  said  nothing,  but  turned  and  led 
the  way  toward  the  camp.  Bisonette  had  made  choice  of  an 
admirable  position.  The  stream,  with  its  thick  growth  of 
trees,  inclosed  on  throe  sides  a  wide  green  meadow,  where 
about  forty  Dakota  lodges  were  pitched  in  a  circle,  and  bej^ond 
them  half  a  dozen  lodges  of  the  friendly  Cheyenne.  Bisonette 
himself  lived  in  the  Indian  manner.  Riding  up  to  his  lodge, 
Ave  found  him  seated  at  the  head  of  it,  surrounded  by  various 
appliances  of  comfort  not  common  on  the  prairie.  His  squaw 
was  near  him,  and  rosy  children  were  scrambling  about  in 
printed-calico  gowns  ;  Paul  Dorion  also,  with  his  leathery 
face  and  old  white  capote,  w^as  seated  in  the  lodge,  together 
with  Antoine  Le  Rouge,  a  half-breed  Pawnee,  Sibille,  a 
trader,  and  several  other  white  men. 

"  It  will  do  3^ou  no  harm,"  said  Bisonette,  "to  stay  here 
with  us  for  a  day  or  two,  before  you  start  for  the  Pueblo." 

We  accepted  the  invitation,  and  piti3hed  our  tent  on  a  rising 
ground  above  the  camp  and  close  to  the  edo-e  of  the  trees. 
Bisonette  soon  invited  us  to  a  feast,  and  we  suffered  abundance 
of  the  same  sort  of  attention  from  his  Indian  associates.  The 
reader  may  possibl}^  recollect  that  when  I  joined  the  Indian 
village,  beyond  the  Black  Hills,  I  found  that  a  few  families 
were  absent,  having  declined  to  pass  the  mountains  along 
with  the  rest.  The  Indians  in  Bisonette's  camp  consisted  of 
these  ver}^  families,  and  many  of  them  came  to  me  that  even- 
ing to  inquire  after  their  relatives  and  friends.  They  were 
not  a  little  mortified  to  learn  that  while  the}^,  from  their  own 
timidity  and  indolence,  were  almost  in  a  starving  condition. 


THE  CALirORMA   AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  229 

the  rest  of  the  village  had  provided  their  lodges  for  the  next 
season,  laid  in  a  great  stock  of  provisions,  and  were  living  in 
abundance  and  luxury.  Bisouette's  companions  liad  been 
sustaining  themselves  for  some  time  on  wild  clierries,  whicli 
the  squaws  pounded  up,  stones  and  all,  and  spread  on  buffalo 
robes,  to  dry  in  the  sun  ;  they  were  then  eaten  witliout  further 
preparation,  or  used  as  an  ingredient  in  various  delectable 
compoumls. 

On  the  next  day  the  camp  was  in  connection  with  a  new 
arrival.  A  single  Indian  had  come  with  his  family  the  whole 
way  from  the  Arkansas.  As  he  passed  among  the  lodges  he 
j)ut  on  an  expression  of  unusual  dignity  and  impoitance,  and 
gave  out  that  he  had  brought  great  news  to  tell  the  whiles. 
Soon  after  the  squaws  had  erected  his  lodge,  he  sent  his  little 
son  to  invite  all  the  white  men,  and  all  the  more  distinguished 
Indians,  to  a  feast.  The  guests  arrived  and  sat  wedged  to- 
gether, shoulder  to  shoulder,  within  the  hot  and  suffocating 
lodge.  The  Stabber,  for  that  was  our  entertainer's  name, 
ha<i  killed  an  old  buffalo  bull  on  his  way.  This  veteran's 
boiled  tripe,  tougher  than  leather,  formed  the  main  item  of 
the  repast.  For  the  rest,  it  consisted  of  wild  cherries  and 
grease  boiled  together  in  a  large  copper  kettle.  The  feast 
was  distributed,  and  for  a  moment  all  was  silent,  strenuous 
exertion  ;  then  each  guest,  with  one  or  two  exceptions,  how- 
ever, turned  his  wooden  dish  bottom  upward  to  prove  that  he 
had  done  full  justice  to  his  entertainer's  hospitality.  The 
Stabber  next  produced  his  chopping  board,  on  which  he  pre- 
pared the  mixture  for  smoking,  and  filled  several  pipes,  which 
circulated  among  the  company.  This  done,  he  seated  him- 
self upright  on  his  couch,  and  began  with  much  gesticulation 
to  tell  his  story.  I  will  not  repeat  his  childish  jargon.  It 
was  so  entangled,  like  the  greater  part  of  an  Indian's  stories, 
with  absurd  and  contradictory  details,  that  it  was  almost 
impossible  to  disengage  from  it  a  single  particle  of  truth. 
All  that  we  could  gather  was  the  following  : 

He  had  been  o!i  the  Arkansas,  and  there  he  had  seen  six 
great  war  parties  of  whites.  lie  had  never  believed  before 
that  the  whole  world  contained  half  so  mau}^  white  men.  They 
all  had  large  horses,  long  knives,  and  short  rifles,  and  some  of 
them  were  attired  alike  in  the  most  splendid  war  dresses  he 
had  ever  seen.  From  this  account  it  was  clear  that  bodies  of 
dragoons  and  perhaps  also  of  volunteer  cavalry  had  been  pass- 
ing up  the  Arkansas.  'I'he  Stabber  had  also  seen  a  great  many 
of  the  white  lodges  of  the  ^feneaska,  drawn  by  their  long- 


280  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

horned  buffalo.  These  could  be  nothing  else  than  covered 
ox- wagons  used  no  doubt  in  transporting  stores  for  the  troops. 
Soon  after  seeing  this,  our  host  had  met  an  Indian  who  had 
lately  come  from  among  the  Comanches.  The  latter  had  told 
him  that  all  the  Mexicans  had  gone  out  to  a  great  buffalo  hunt. 
That  the  Americans  had  hid  themselves  in  a  ravine.  When 
tlie  Mexicans  had  shot  away  all  their  arrows,  the  Americans 
had  fired  their  guns,  raised  their  war  whoop,  rushed  out,  and 
killed  them  all.  We  could  only  infer  from  this  that  war  had 
been  declared  with  Mexico,  and  a  battle  fought  in  which  the 
Americans  were  victorious.  When,  some  weeks  after,  we 
arrived  at  the  Pueblo,  we  heard  of  General  Kearny's  march  up 
the  Arkansas  and  of  General  Taylor's  victories  at  Matamoras. 
As  the  sun  was  setting  that  evening  a  great  crowd  gathered 
on  the  plain  by  the  side  of  our  tent,  to  try  the  speed  of  their 
horses.  These  were  of  every  shape,  size,  and  color.  Some 
came  from  California,  some  from  the  States,  some  from  among 
the  mountains,  and  some  from  the  wild  bands  of  the  prairie. 
Tiiey  were  of  every  hue — w^hite,  black,  red  and  gray,  or  mot- 
tled and  clouded  with  a  strange  variety  of  colors.  They  all 
had  a  wild  and  startled  look,  very  different  from  the  staid  and 
sober  aspect  of  a  well-bred  city  steed.  Those  most  noted  for 
swiftness  and  spirit  were  decorated  with  eagle- feathers  dang- 
ling from  their  manes  and  tails.  ,  Fifty  or  sixty  Dakota 
were  present,  wrapped  from  head  to  foot  in  their  heavy  robes 
of  whitened  hide.  There  were  also  a  considerable  number  of 
the  Cheyenne,  many  of  whom  wore  gaudy  Mexican  ponchos 
swathed  around  their  shoulders,  but  leaving  the  right  arm 
bar€.  Mingled  among  the  crowed  of  Indians  were  a  number 
of  Canadians,  chiefly  in  the  employ  of  Bisonette  ;  men,  whose 
home  is  the  wilderness,  and  who  love  the  camp  fire  better  than 
the  domestic  hearth.  They  are  contented  and  happy  in  the 
midst  of  hardship,  privation,  and  danger.  Their  cheerfulness 
and  gayety  is  irrepressible,  and  no  people  on  earth  understand 
better  how  "  to  daff  the  world  aside  and  bid  it  pass."  Besides 
these,  were  two  or  three  half-breeds,  a  race  of  rather  extra- 
ordinary com])osition,  being  according  to  the  common  saying 
half  Indian,  half  white  man,  and  half  devil.  Antoine  Le 
Rouge  was  the  most  conspicuous  among  them,  with  his  loose 
pantaloons  and  his  fluttering  calico  shirt.  A  handkerchief  w^as 
bound  round  his  head  to  confine  his  black  snaky  hair,  and  his 
small  eyes  twinkled  beneath  it,  with  a  mischievous  luster.  He 
had  a  fine  cream-colored  horse  whose  speed  he  must  needs  try 
along  with  the  rest.     So  he  threw  off  the  rude  high-peaked 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  231 

saddle,  and  substituting  a  piece  of  buffalo  robe,  leaped  ligbtly 
into  his  seat.  The  space  was  cleared,  the  word  was  given, 
and  he  and  his  Indian  rival  darted  out  like  lightning  from 
among  the  crowd,  each  stretching  forward  over  his  horse's 
neck  and  plying  his  heav}^  Indian  whip  with  might  and  main. 
A  moment,  and  both  were  lost  in  the  gloom  ;  but  Antoine 
soon  came  riding  back  victorious,  exultingly  patting  the  neck 
of  his  quivering  and  panting  horse. 

About  midnight,  as  I  lay  asleep,  wrapped  in  a  buffalo  robe 
on  the  ground  by  the  side  of  our  cart,  Raymond  came  up  and 
woke  me.  Something,  he  said,  was  going  forward  which  I 
would  like  to  see.  Looking  down  into  the  camp  I  saw,  on  the 
farther  side  of  it,  a  great  number  of  Indians  gathered  around 
a  fire,  the  bright  glare  of  which  made  them  visible  through 
the  thick  darkness  ;  while  from  the  midst  of  them  proceeded  a 
loud,  measured  chant  which  would  have  killed  Paganini  out- 
right, broken  occasionally  by  a  burst  of  sharp  yells.  I  gathered 
the  robe  around  me,  for  the  night  was  cold,  and  walked  down 
to  the  spot.  The  dark  tlirong  of  Indians  was  so  dense  that 
they  almost  intercepted  the  light  of  the  flame.  As  I  was 
pushing  among  them  with  but  little  ceremony,  a  chief  inter- 
posed himself,  and  I  was  given  to  understand  that  a  white  man 
must  not  approach  the  scene  of  their  solemnities  too  closely. 
By  passing  round  to  the  other  side,  where  there  was  a  little 
opening  in  the  crowd,  I  could  see  clearly  what  was  going  for- 
ward, without  intruding  my  unhallowed  presence  into  the  inner 
circle.  The  society  of  the  "  Strong  Hearts"  were  engaged  in 
one  of  their  dances.  The  Strong  Hearts,  are  a  warlike  asso- 
ciation, comprising  men  of  both  the  Dakota  and  Cheyenne 
nations,  and  entirely  composed,  or  supposed  to  be  so,  of  young 
braves  of  the  highest  mettle.  Its  fundamental  principle  is  the 
admirable  one  of  never  retreating  from  anj^  enterprise  once 
commenced.  All  these  Indian  associations  have  a  tutelary 
spirit.  That  of  the  Strong  Hearts  is  embodied  in  the  fox,  an 
animal  which  a  white  man  would  hardly  liave  selected  for  a 
similar  purpose,  though  his  subtle  aiid  cautious  character 
agrees  well  enough  with  an  Indian's  notions  of  what  is  honor- 
able in  warfare.  The  dancers  were  circling  round  and  round 
the  fire,  each  figure  brightly  illumined  at  one  moment  by  the 
yellow  light,  and  at  the  next  drawn  in  blackest  shadow  as  it 
passed  between  the  flame  and  the  spectator.  They  would 
imitate  with  the  most  ludicrous  exactness  the  motions  and  the 
voice  of  their  sly  patron  the  fox.  Then  a  startling  yell  would 
be  given.     Many  other  warriors  would  leap  into  tlie  ri?ig,  and 


232  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

with  faces  upturned  toward  the  starless  sky,  tbey  would  all 
stamp,  and  whoop,  and  brandish  their  weapons  like  so  many 
frantic  devils. 

Until  the  next  afternoon  we  were  still  remaining  with 
Bisonette.  My  companion  and  I  with  our  three  attendants 
then  left  his  camp  for  the  Pueblo,  a  distance  of  three  hundred 
miles,  and  we  supposed  the  journey  would  occupy  about  a 
fortnight.  During  this  time  we  all  earnestly  hoped  that  we 
might  not  meet  a  single  human  being,  for  should  we  encounter 
any,  they  would  in  all  probability  be  enemies,  ferocious 
robbers  and  murderers,  in  whose  eyes  our  rifles  would  be  our 
only  passports.  For  the  first  two  days  nothing  worth  men- 
tioning took  place.  On  the  third  morning,  however,  an 
untoward  incident  occurred.  We  were  encamped  by  the  side 
of  a  little  brook  in  an  extensive  hollow  of  the  plain.  Delorier 
was  up  long  before  daylight,  and  before  he  began  to  prepare 
breakfast  he  turned  loose  all  the  horses,  as  in  duty  bound. 
There  was  a  cold  mist  clinging  close  to  the  ground,  and  bj- the 
time  the  re^  of  us  were  awake  the  animals  were  invisible.  It 
was  only  after  a  long  and  anxious  search  that  we  could  dis- 
cover by  their  tracks  the  direction  they  had  taken.  The}^  had 
all  set  off  for  Fort  Laramie,  following  the  guidance  of  a 
mutinous  old  mule,  and  though  many  of  them  were  hobbled, 
they  had  traveled  three  miles  before  they  could  be  overtaken 
and  driven  back. 

For  the  following  two  or  three  days  we  were  passing 
over  an  arid  desert.  The  only  vegetation  was  a  few  tufts  of 
short  grass,  dried  and  shriveled  by  the  heat.  There  was  an 
abundance  of  strange  insects  and  reptiles.  Huge  crickets, 
black  and  bottle  green,  and  wingless  grasshoppers  of  the  most 
extravagant  dimensions,  were  tumbling  about  our  horses' 
feet,  and  lizards  without  numbers  were  darting  like  lightning 
among  the  tufts  of  grass.  The  most  curious  animal,  however, 
was  that  commonly  called  the  horned  frog.  I  caught  one  of 
them  and  consigned  him  to  the  care  of  Delorier,  who  tied  him 
up  in  a  moccasin.  About  a  month  after  this  I  examined  the 
prisoner's  condition,  and  finding  him  still  lively  and  active,  I 
provided  him  with  a  cage  of  buffalo  hide,  which  was  hung  up 
in  the  cart.  In  this  manner  he  arrived  safely  at  the  settle- 
ments. From  thence  he  traveled  the  whole  way  to  Boston 
packed  closely  in  a  trunk,  being  regaled  with  fresh  air  regu- 
larly every  night.  When  he  reached  his  destination  he  was 
deposited  under  a  glass  case,  where  he  snt  for  some  months 
in  great  tranquillity  and  composure,  alternately  dilating  and 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  233 

contracting  his  wliile  throat  to  tlio  admiration  of  his  visitors. 
At  lengtii,  one  morning,  about  the  middle  of  winter,  he  gave 
up  the  ghost.  His  death  was  attributed  to  starvation,  a  very 
probable  conclusion,  since  for  six  months  he  had  taken  no  food 
whatever,  though  the  s3Mnpathy  of  his  juvenile  admirers  had 
tempted  his  palate  with  a  great  variety'  of  delicacies.  We 
found  also  animals  of  a  somewhat  larger  growth.  The  number 
of  prairie  dogs  was  absolutely  astounding.  Frequently  the 
Jiard  and  dr}^  prairie  would  be  thickly  covered,  for  man}' 
miles  together,  with  the  little  mounds  which  they  make 
around  the  mouth  of  their  burrows,  and  small  sqeaking  voices 
yelping  at  us  as  we  passed  along.  The  noses  of  the  inhabit- 
ants would  be  just  visible  at  the  mouth  of  their  holes,  but  no 
sooner  was  their  curiosity  satisfied  than  they  would  instanth' 
vanish.  Some  of  the  bolder  dogs — though  in  fact  they  are  no 
dogs  at  all,  but  little  marmots  rather  smaller  than  a  rabbit — 
would  sit  yelping  at  us  on  the  top  of  their  mounds,  jerking 
their  tails  emphatically  with  every  shrill  cr}-  they  uttered. 
As  the  danger  drew  nearer  they  would  wheel  about,  toss 
their  heels  into  the  air,  and  dive  in  a  twinkling  down  into 
their  burrows.  Toward  sunset,  and  especially  if  rain  were 
threatening,  the  whole  community  would  make  their  appear- 
ance above  ground.  We  would  see  them  gathered  in  large 
knots  around  the  buVrow  of  some  favorite  citizen.  There  they 
would  all  sit  erect,  their  tails  spread  out  on  the  ground,  and 
their  paws  hanging  down  before  their  white  breasts,  chatter- 
ing and  squeaking  with  the  utmost  vivacity  upon  some  topic 
of  common  interest,  while  the  proprietor  of  the  burrow,  with 
his  head  just  visible  on  the  top  of  his  mound,  would  sit  look- 
ing down  with  a  complacent  countenance  on  the  enjoyment 
of  his  guests.  Meanwhile,  others  would  be  running  about 
from  burrow  to  burrow,  as  if  on  some  errand  of  the  last  im- 
portance to  their  subterranean  commonwealth.  The  snakes 
are  apparently  the  prairie  dog's  worst  enemies,  at  least  I  think 
too  well  of  the  latter  to  suppose  that  they  associate  on  friendly 
terms  with  these  slimy  intruders,  who  miiy  be  seen  at  all  times 
basking  among  their  holes,  into  which  they  always  retreat  when 
disturbed.  Small  owls,  with  wise  and  grave  countenances,  also 
make  their  abode  with  the  prairie  dogs,  though  on  what  terms 
they  live  together  I  could  never  ascertain.  The  manners  and 
customs,  tlie  political  and  domestic  economy  of  these  little 
marmots  is  worthy  of  closer  attention  than  one  is  able  to  give 
when  pushing  by  forced  marches  through  their  country,  with 
his  thoughts  engrossed  b\* objects  of  greater  moment. 


234  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL, 

On  the  fifth  day  after  leaving  Bisonette's  camp  we  saw 
late  in  the  afternoon  what  we  supposed  to  be  a  considerable 
stream,  but  on  our  approaching  it  we  found  to  our  mortifica- 
tion nothing  but  a  dry  bed  of  sand  into  which  all  the  water 
had  sunk  and  disappeared.  We  separated,  some  riding  in 
one  direction  and  some  in  another  along  its  course.  Still  we 
found  no  traces  of  water,  not  even  so  much  as  a  wet  spot  in 
the  sand.  The  old  cotton-wood  trees  that  grew  along  the 
bank,  lamentably  abused  by  lightning  and  tempest,  were 
witliering  with  the  drought,  and  on  the  dead  limbs,  at  the 
summit  of  the  tallest,  half  a  dozen  crows  were  hoarsely  caw- 
ing like  birds  of  evil  omen  as  they  were.  We  had  no  alter- 
native but  to  keep  on.  There  was  no  water  nearer  than  the 
South  Fork  of  the  Platte,  about  ten  miles  distant.  We  moved 
forward,  angry  and  silent,  over  a  desert  as  flat  as  the  out- 
spread ocean. 

The  sky  had  been  obscured  since  the  morning  b}"  thin  mists 
and  vapors,  but  now  vast  piles  of  clouds  were  gathered 
together  in  the  west.  They  rose  to  a  great  height  above  the 
horizon,  and  looking  up  toward  them  I  distinguished  one  mass 
darker  than  the  rest  and  of  a  peculiar  conical  form.  I  hap- 
pened to  look  again  and  still  could  see  it  as  before.  At  some 
moments  it  was  dimly  seen,  at  others  its  outline  was  sharp 
and  distinct  ;  but  while  the  clouds  around  it  were  shifting, 
changing,  and  dissolving  away,  it  still  to\vered  aloft  in  the 
midst  of  them,  fixed  and  immovable.  It  must,  thought  I,  be 
the  summit  of  a  mountain,  and  yet  its  height  staggered  me. 
My  conclusion  was  right,  however.  It  was  Long's  Peak,  once 
believed  to  be  one  of  the  highest  of  the  Rocky  Mountain 
chain,  though  more  recent  discoveries  have  proved  the  con- 
trary. The  thickening  gloom  soon  hid  it  from  view  and  we 
never  saw  it  again,  for  on  the  following  day  and  for  some 
time  after,  the  air  was  so  full  of  mist  that  the  view  of  distant 
objects  was  entirely  intercepted. 

It  grew  very  late.  Turning  from  our  direct  course  we 
made  for  the  river  at  its  nearest  point,  though  in  the  utter 
darkness  it  was  not  easy  to  direct  our  way  with  much  pre- 
cision. Raj^mond  rode  on  one  side  and  Henry  on  the  other. 
We  could  hear  each  of  them  shouting  that  he  had  come  upon 
a  deep  ravine.  We  steered  at  random  between  Scjdla  and , 
Charybdis,  and  soon  after  became,  as  it  seemed,  inextricably 
involved  with  deep  chasms  all  around  us,  while  the  darkness 
was  such  that  we  could  not  see  a  rod  in  any  direction.  We 
partially  extricated  ourselves  by  agcrambling,   cart   and    all, 


THE  CALIFORNIA   AND   OREGON  TRAIL.  235 

through  a  shallow  ravine.  We  came  next  to  a  steep  descent, 
down  which  we  plunged  without  well  knowing  what  was  at 
the  bottom.  There  was  a  great  crackling  of  slicks  and  dry 
twigs.  Over  our  heads  were  certain  large  shadowy  objects, 
and  in  front  sometliing  like  the  faint  gleaming  of  a  dark  sheet 
of  water.  Raymond  ran  his  horse  against  a  tree  ;  Henry 
alighted,  and  feeling  on  the  ground  declared  that  there  was 
grass  enough  for  tlie  horses.  Before  taking  off  his  saddle 
each  man  led  his  own  liorses  down  to  the  water  in  the  best 
way  he  could.  Then  picketing  two  or  three  of  the  evil-disposed 
we  turned  the  rest  loose  and  lay  down  among  the  dry  sticks 
to  sleep.  In  the  morning  we  found  ourselves  close  to  the 
South  Fork  of  the  Platte  on  a  spot  surrounded  by  bushes  and 
rank  grass.  Compensating  ourselves  with  a  hearty  breakfast 
for  the  ill  fare  of  the  previous  night,  we  set  forward  again  on 
our  journey.  When  only  two  or  three  rods  from  the  camp  I 
saw  Shaw  stop  his  mule,  level  his  gun,  and  after  a  long  aim 
fire  at  some  object  in  the  grass.  Delorier  next  jumped  for- 
ward and  began  to  dance  about,  belaboring  the  unseen  enemy 
with  a  whip.  Then  he  stooped  down  and  drew  out  of  the 
grass  by  the  neck  an  enormous  rattlesnake,  with  his  head 
completely  shattered  by  Shaw's  bullet.  As  Delorier  held  him 
out  at  arm's  length  with  an  exulting  grin  his  tail,  which  still 
kept  slowly  writhing  about,  almost  touched  the  ground,  and 
the  body  in  the  largest  part  was  as  thick  as  a  stout  man's  arm. 
He  had  fourteen  rattles,  but  the  end  of  liis  tail  was  blunted, 
as  if  he  could  once  have  boasted  of  many  more.  From  this 
time  till  we  reached  the  Pueblo  we  killed  at  least  four  or  five 
of  these  snakes  every  day  as  they  laj^  coiled  and  rattling  on 
the  hot  sand.  Shaw  was  the  St.  Patrick  of  the  part\',  and 
whenever  he  or  anyone  else  killed  a  snake  he  always  pulled  off 
his  tail  and  stored  it  away  in  his  bullet-pouch,  which  was  soon 
crammed  with  an  edifying  collection  of  rattles,  great  and 
small.  Delorier,  with  his  whip,  also  came  in  for  a  share  of 
the  praise.  A  day  or  two  after  this  he  triumphantly  produced 
a  small  snake  about  a  span  and  a  half  long,  with  one  infant 
rattle  at  the  end  of  his  tail. 

We  forded  the  South  Fork  of  the  Platte.  On  its  farther 
bank  were  the  traces  of  a  very  large  camp  of  Arapahoes.  The 
ashes  of  some  three  hundred  fires  were  visible  among  the 
scattered  trees,  together  with  the  n'mains  of  sweating  lodges, 
and  all  the  other  appurtenances  of  a  permanent  camp.  The 
place  however  had  been  for  some  months  deserted.  A  few 
miles  farther  on  we  found  more  recent  signs  of  Indians  ;  the 


236  THE  CALIFOBNIA  AND   OBEGON  TRAIL. 

trail  of  two  or  three  lodges,  which  had  evidentl}^  passed  the 
day  before,  Avhere  every  footprint  was  perfect!}'  distinct  in 
the  dry,  dust}'  soil.  We  noticed  in  particular  the  track  of 
one  moccasin,  upon  the  sole  of  which  its  economical  proprie- 
tor had  placed  a  large  patch.  These  signs  gave  us  but  little 
uneasiness,  as  the  number  of  the  warriors  scarcely  exceeded 
that  of  our  own  part}'.  At  noon  we  rested  under  the  walls  of 
a  large  fort,  built  in  these  solitudes  some  years  since  by 
M.  St.  Vrain.  It  was  now  abandoned  and  fast  falling  into 
ruin.  The  walls  of  unbaked  bricks  were  cracked  from  top  to 
bottom.  Our  horses  recoiled  in  terror  from  the  neglected 
entrance,  where  the  heavy  gates  were  torn  from  their  hinges 
and  flung  down.  The  area  within  was  overgrown  witli  weeds, 
and  the  long  ranges  of  apartments,  once  occupied  by  the 
motley  concourse  of  traders,  Canadians,  and  squaws,  were 
now  miserabh^  dilapidated.  TavcIvc  miles  farther  on,  near 
the  spot  where  we  encamped,  were  the  remains  of  still  another 
fort,  standing  in  melanclioly  desertion  and  neglect. 

Earlv  on  the  followins^  mornin<]:  we  made  a  startlino;  dis- 
covery.  We  passed  close  by  a  large  deserted  encampment  of 
Arapahoes.  There  were  about  fifty  fires  still  smoldering  on 
the  ground,  and  it  was  evident  from  numerous  signs  that  the 
Indians  must  have  left  tlie  place  within  two  hours  of  our 
reaching  it.  Their  trail  crossed  our  own  at  right  angles,  and 
led  in  tlie  direction  of  a  line  of  hills  half  a  mile  on  our  left. 
There  were  women  and  children  in  the  party,  which  would 
have  greatly  diminished  the  danger  of  encountering  them. 
Henry  Cliatillon  examined  the  encampment  and  the  trail  with 
a  very  professional  and  businesslike  air. 

"Supposing  we  had  met  them,  Henry?"  said  I. 

"  Why,"  said  he,  "  we  hold  out  our  hands  to  them,  and  give 
them  all  we've  got  ;  they  take  awa}^  everything,  and  then  I 
believe  they  no  kill  us.  Perhaps,"  added  he,  looking  up  with 
a  quiet,  unchanged  face,  "  perhaps  we  no  let  them  rob  us. 
Maybe  before  they  come  near,  we  have  a  chance  to  get  into  a 
ravine,  or  under  the  bank  of  the  river  ;  then  you  know,  we 
fight  them." 

About  noon  on  that  day  we  reached  Cherry  Creek.  Here 
was  a  great  abundance  of  wild  cherries,  plums,  gooseberries, 
and  currants.  The  stream,  however,  like  most  of  the  others 
which  we  passed,  was  dried  up  with  the  heat,  and  we  had  to 
dig  holes  in  the  sand  to  find  water  for  ourselves  and  our  horses. 
Two  days  after,  we  left  the  banks  of  the  creek  M'hich  we  had 
been  following  for  some  time,  and  began  to  cross  the  high 


THf:  CATJFORNtA  AND  OHEOON  TRAIL.  237 

dividing  ridj^e  wliich  separates  the  waters  of  the  Platte  from 
those  of  the  Arkaiis.is.  Tlie  scener}'  was  altogether  changed. 
In  place  of  tlie  buniiiig  plains  we  were  passing  now  tlirough 
rough  and  savage  glens  and  among  hills  crowned  with  a 
dreary  growth  of  pines.  AVe  encamped  among  these  solitudes 
on  the  night  of  tlie  16th  of  August.  A  tempest  was  threaten- 
ing. The  sun  went  down  among  volumes  of  jet-black  cloud, 
edged  with  a  bloody  red.  But  in  spite  of  these  portentous 
signs,  we  neglected  to  put  up  tlie  tent,  and  being  extremely 
fatigued,  lay  down  on  the  ground  and  fell  asleep.  The  stoi'm 
broke  about  midnight,  and  we  erected  the  tent  amid  dark- 
ness and  confusion.  In  the  morning  all  was  fair  again,  and 
Pike's  Peak,  white  with  snow,  was  towering  above  the  wilder- 
ness afar  off. 

We  pushed  through  an  extensive  tract  of  pine  woods. 
Large  black  squirrels  were  leaping  among  the  branches. 
From  the  farther  edge  of  this  forest  we  saw  the  prairie  agafn, 
hollowed  out  before  us  into  a  vast  basin,  and  about  a  mile  in 
front  we  could  discern  a  little  black  speck  moving  upon  its 
surface.  It  could  be  nothing  but  a  buffalo.  Henry  primed 
his  rifle  afresh  and  galloped  forward.  To  the  left  of  the  ani- 
mal was  a  low  rocky  mound,  of  which  Henr}^  availed  himself 
in  making  his  a})i)roach.  After  a  short  time  we  heard  the 
faint  re])ort  of  the  rifle.  The  bull,  mortally  wounded  from  a 
distance  of  nearly  three  hundred  yards,  ran  wildly  round  and 
round  in  a  circle.  Shaw  and  I  then  galloped  forward,  and 
passing  him  as  he  ran,  foaming  with  rage  and  pain,  we  dis- 
charged our  pistols  into  his  side.  Once  or  twice  he  rushed 
furiously  upon  us,  but  his  strength  was  rapidl}'  exhausted. 
Down  he  fell  on  his  knees.  For  one  instant  he  glared  up  at 
his  enemies  with  burning  eyes  through  his  black  tangled 
mane,  and  then  rolled  over  on  his  side.  Though  gaunt  and 
thin,  he  was  larger  and  heavier  than  the  largest  ox.  Foam 
and  blood  flew  together  from  his  nostrils  as  he  lay  bellowing 
and  pawing  the  gi'ound,  tearing  u})  grass  and  earth  with  his 
hoofs.  His  sides  rose  and  fell  like  a  vast  pair  of  bellows,  the 
blood  sjiouting  up  in  jets  from  the  bullet-holes.  Suddenly 
his  glaring  eyes  became  like  a  lifeless  jelly.  He  lay  motion- 
less on  the  ground.  Henry  stooped  over  him,  and  making  an 
incision  with  his  knife,  jironounced  the  meat  too  rank  and 
tough  for  use  ;  so,  disappointed  in  our  hopes  of  an  addition 
to  our  stock  of  provisions,  we  rode  away  and  left  the  carcass 
to  the  wolves. 

In  the  afternoon  we  saw  the  mountains  rising  like  a  gigan- 


238  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

tic  wall  at  no  great  distance  on  our  right.  ^^  Des  saiivages! 
des  sauvages ! "  exclaimed  Delorier,  looking  round  with  a 
frightened  face,  and  pointing  with  his  whip  toward  the  foot 
of  tlie  mountains.  In  fact,  we  could  see  at  a  distance  a  num- 
ber of  little  black  specks,  like  horsemen  in  rapid  motion. 
Henry  Chatillon,  with  Shaw  and  myself,  galloped  toward  them 
to  reconnoiter,  when  to  our  amusement  we  saw  tlie  supposed 
Arapahoes  resolved  into  the  black  tops  of  some  pine  trees  which 
grew  along  a  ravine.  Tlie  summits  of  these  pines,  just  visible 
above  the  verge  of  the  prairie,  and  seeming  to  move  as  we  our- 
selves wxre  advancing,  looked  exactly  like  a  line  of  horsemen. 
We  encamped  among  ravines  and  hollows,  through  which 
a  little  brook  was  foaming  angrily.  Before  sunrise  in  the 
morning  the  snow-covered  mountains  were  beautifully  tinged 
with  a  delicate  rose  color.  A  noble  spectacle  awaited  us  as 
we  moved  forward.  Six  or  eight  miles  on  our  riglit,  Pike's 
Peak  and  his  giant  brethren  rose  out  of  the  level  prairie,  as  if 
springing  from  the  bed  of  the  ocean.  From  their  summits 
down  to  the  plain  below  they  were  involved  in  a  mantle  of 
clouds,  in  restless  motion,  as  if  urged  by  strong  winds.  For 
one  instant  some  snowy  peak,  towering  in  awful  solitude, 
would  be  disclosed  to  view.  As  the  clouds  broke  along  the 
mountain,  we  could  see  the  dreary  forests,  the  tremendous 
precipices,  the  white  patches  of  snow,  tlie  gulfs  and  chasms  as 
black  as  night,  all  revealed  for  an  instant,  and  then  disappear- 
ing from  the  view.  One  could  not  but  recall  the  stanza  of 
"Childe  Harold": 

Morn  dawns,  and  with  it  stern  Albania's  liills, 
Dark  Bull's  rocks,  and  Pindus'  inland  peak, 
Robed  half  in  mist,  bedewed  with  snowy  rills, 
Array 'd  in  many  a  dun  and  purple  streak. 
Arise  ;  and,  as  the  clouds  along  them  break, 
Disclose  the  dwelling  of  the  mountaineer  : 
Here  roams  the  wolf,  the  eagle  whets  his  beak, 
Birds,  beasts  of  prey,  and  wilder  men  appear, 
And  gathering  storms  around  convulse  the  closing  year. 

Every  line  save  one  of  this  description  was  more  than  veri- 
fied here.  There  were  no  "dwellings  of  tlie  mountaineer" 
among  these  heights.  Fierce  savages,  restlessly^  wandering 
through  summer  and  winter,  alone  invade  them.  "Their 
hand  is  against  every  man,  and  every  man's  hand  against 
them." 

On  the  day  after  we  had  left  the  mountains  at  some  dis- 
tance.    A  black  cloud  descended  upon  them,  and  a  tremend- 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  280 

oiis  explosion  of  thunder  followed,  reverberating  among  the 
precipices.  In  a  few  moments  everything  grew  black  and 
the  rain  poured  down  like  a  cataract.  We  got  under  an  old 
cotton-wood  tree  wliich  stood  by  tlie  side  of  a  stream,  and 
waited  there  till  the  rage  of  the  torrent  had  passed. 

The  clouds  opened  at  the  point  where  tliey  first  had  gath- 
ered, and  the  whole  sublime  congregation  of  mountains  was 
bathed  at  once  in  warm  sunshine.  They  seemed  more  like 
some  luxurious  vision  of  Eastern  romance  than  like  a  reality 
of  that  wilderness  ;  all  were  melted  together  into  a  soft  deli- 
cious blue,  as  voluptuous  as  the  sk}^  of  Naples  or  the  trans- 
parent sea  that  washes  the  sunny  cliffs  of  Capri.  On  the  left 
the  whole  sky  was  still  of  an  inky  blackness  ;  but  two  concen- 
tric rainbows  stood  in  brilliant  relief  against  it,  while  far  in 
front  the  ragged  cloud  still  streamed  before  the  wind,  and  the 
retreating  thunder  muttered  angrily. 

Through  that  afternoon  and  the  next  morning  we  were 
passing  down  the  banks  of  the  stream  called  La  Fontaine 
qui  Bouille,  from  the  boiling  spring  whose  waters  flow  into 
it.  When  we  stopped  at  noon,  we  were  within  six  or  eight 
miles  of  the  Pueblo.  Setting  out  again,  we  found  by  the 
fresh  tracks  that  a  horseman  had  just  been  out  to  reconnoitor 
us  ;  he  had  circled  half  round  the  camp,  and  then  galloped 
back  full  speed  for  the  Pueblo.  What  made  him  so  shy  of 
us  we  could  not  conceive.  After  an  hour's  ride  we  reached 
the  edge  of  a  hill,  from  which  a  welcome  sight  greeted  us. 
The  Arkansas  ran  along  the  valley  below,  among  woods  and 
groves,  and  closely  nestled  in  the  midst  of  wide  cornfields 
and  green  meadows  where  cattle  were  grazing  rose  the  low 
mud  walls  of  the  Pueblo. 

CHAPTER  XXI. 


It  came  to  pass  that,  when  he  did  address 
Himself  to  quit  at  length  this  mountain  land, 

Combined  marauders  halfway  barred  egress, 
And  wasted  far  and  near  with  glaive  and  brand. 

CniLDE  Harold. 

We  approached  the  gate  of  the  Pueblo.  It  was  a  wretched 
species  of  fort  of  most  primitive  construction,  being  nothing 
more  than  a  large  square  inclosure,  surrounded  by  a  wall  of 
mud,  miserably  cracked  and  dilapidated.  The  slender  pickets 
that  surmounted  it  were  half  broken  down,  and  the  gate  dan- 


240  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

gled  on  its  wooden  hinges  so  loosely,  that  to  open  or  shut  it 
seemed  likel}^  to  fling  it  down  altogether.  Two  or  three 
squalid  Mexicans,  with  their  broad  hats,  and  their  vile  faces 
overgrown  with  hair,  were  lounging  about  the  bank  of  the 
river  in  front  of  it.  They  disappeared  as  they  saw  us 
approach  ;  and  as  we  rode  up  to  the  gate  a  light  active  little 
figure  came  out  to  meet  us.  It  was  our  old  friend  Richard. 
He  liad  come  from  Fort  Laramie  on  a  trading  expedition  to 
Taos  ;  but  finding,  when  he  reached  the  Pueblo,  that  the  war 
would  prevent  his  going  farther,  he  was  quietly  waiting  till  the 
conquest  of  the  country  sliould  allow  him  to  proceed.  He 
seemed  to  consider  himself  bound  to  do  the  honors  of  the  place. 
Shaking  us  warml}'-  by  the  hand,  he  led  the  waj'  into  the  area. 
Here  we  saw  his  large  Santa  Fe  wagons  standing  together, 
A  few  squaws  and  Spanish  women,  and  a  few  Mexicans,  as 
mean  and  miserable  as  the  place  itself,  were  lazily  sauntering 
about.  Richard  conducted  us  to  the  state  apartment  of  the 
Pueblo,  a  small  mud  room,  veiy  neatl}^  finished,  considering 
the  material,  and  garnished  with  a  crucifix,  a  looking-glass,  a 
picture  of  the  Virgin,  and  a  rusty  horse  pistol.  There  were 
no  chairs,  but  instead  of  them  a  number  of  chests  and  boxes 
ranged  about  the  room.  There  was  another  room  beyond, 
less  sumptuously  decorated,  and  here  three  or  four  Spanish 
girls,  one  of  them  very  pretty,  were  baking  cakes  at  a  mud 
fireplace  in  the  corner.  The}^  brought  out  a  poncho,  which 
they  spread  upon  the  floor  by  way  of  table-cloth.  A  supper, 
which  seemed  to  ns  luxurious,  was  soon  laid  out  upon  it,  and 
folded  buffalo  robes  were  placed  around  it  to  receive  the 
guests.  Two  or  three  Americans,  besides  ourselves,  were 
present.  We  sat  down  Turkish  fashion,  and  began  to  inquire 
the  news.  Richard  told  us  that,  about  three  weeks  before, 
General  Kearny's  army  had  left  Bent's  Fort  to  march  against 
Santa  Fe  ;  that  when  last  heard  from  they  were  approaching 
the  mountainous  defiles  that  led  to  the  city.  One  of  the 
Americans  produced  a  dingy  newspaper,  containing  an  account 
of  the  battles  of  Palo  Alto  and  Resaca  de  la  Palma.  While 
we  were  discussing  these  matters,  the  doorway  was  darkened 
by  a  tall,  shambling  fellow,  who  stood  with  his  hands  in  his 
pockets  taking  a  leisurely  survey  of  the  premises  before  he 
entered.  He  wore  brown  homespun  pantaloons,  much  too 
short  for  his  legs,  and  a  pistol  and  bowie  knife  stuck  in  his 
belt.  His  head  and  one  eye  were  enveloped  in  a  huge  band- 
age of  white  linen.  Having  completed  his  observations,  he 
came  slouching  in  and  sat  down   on  a  chest.     Eight  or. ten 


TUK  CALttrOliNIA  AND  OttEGON  TRAIL.  241 

more  of  tlie  same  stamp  followed,  and  very  coolly  arranging 
themselves  about  the  room,  began  to  stare  at  the  company. 
Shaw  and  I  looked  at  each  other.  We  were  forcibly  reminded 
of  the  Oregon  emigrants,  though  these  unwelcome  visitors 
had  a  certain  glitter  of  the  eye,  and  a  compression  of  the 
lips,  which  distinguished  them  from  our  old  acquaintances  of 
the  prairie.  They  began  to  catechise  us  at  once,  inquiring 
whence  we  had  come,  what  we  meant  to  do  next,  and  what 
were  our  future  prospects  in  life. 

The  man  with  the  bandaged  head  had  met  with  an  untoward 
accident  a  few  days  before.  He  was  going  down  to  the  river 
to  bring  water,  and  was  pushing  through  the  young  willows 
which  covered  the  low  ground,  when  he  came  unawares  upon 
a  grizzly  bear,  which,  having  just  eaten  a  buifalo  bull,  had 
lain  down  to  sleep  off  the  meal.  The  bear  rose  on  his  hind 
legs,  and  gave  the  intruder  such  a  blow  with  his  paw  that  he 
laid  his  forehead  entirely  bare,  clawed  off  the  front  of  his 
scalp,  and  narrowly  missed  one  of  his  eyes.  Fortunately  he 
was  not  in  a  very  pugnacious  mood,  being  surfeited  with  his 
late  meal.  The  man's  companions,  who  were  close  behind, 
raised  a  shout,  and  the  bear  walked  away,  crushing  down  the 
willows  in  his  leisurely  retreat. 

These  men  belonged  to  a  party  of  Mormons,  who,  out  of  a 
well-grounded  fear  of  the  other  emigrants,  had  postponed 
leaving  the  settlements  until  all  the  rest  were  gone.  On 
account  of  this  delay  they  did  not  reach  Fort  Laramie  until 
it  was  too  late  to  continue  their  journey  to  California.  Hear- 
ing that  there  was  good  land  at  the  head  of  the  Arkansas, 
they  crossed  over  under  the  guidance  of  Richard,  and  were 
now  pn'paring  to  spend  the  winter  at  a  spot  about  half  a  mile 
from  the  Pueblo. 

When  we  took  leave  of  Richard,  it  was  near  sunset.  Pass- 
ing out  of  the  gate,  we  could  look  down  the  little  valley  of  the 
Arkansas  ;  a  beautiful  scene,  and  doubly  so  to  our  e3'es,  so  long 
iiccustomed  to  deserts  and  mountains.  Tall  woods  lined  the 
river,  with  green  meadows  on  either  hand  ;  and  high  bluffs, 
quietly  basking  in  the  sunlight,  flanked  the  narrow^  valley.  A 
Mexican  on  horseback  was  driving  a  herd  of  cattle  toward  the 
gate,  and  our  little  white  tent,  which  the  men  had  pitched  under 
a  large  tree  in  the  meadow,  made  a  very  pleasing  feature  in  the 
scene.  When  we  reached  it,  we  found  that  Richard  had  sent 
a  Mexican  to  bring  us  an  abundant  supply  of  green  corn  and 
vegetables,  and  invite  us  to  help  ourselves  to  whatever  we 
wished  from  the  fields  around  the  Pueblo. 


242  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

The  inhabitants  were  in  daily  apprehension  of  an  inroad 
from  more  formidable  consumers  than  ourselves.  Every  year 
at  the  time  when  the  corn  begins  to  ripen,  the  Arapahoes,  to 
the  number  of  several  thousands,  come  and  encamp  around  tlie 
Pueblo.  The  handful  of  white  men,  who  are  entirel}^  at  the 
mercy  of  this  swarm  of  barbarians,  choose  to  make  a  merit  of 
necessity  ;  they  come  forward  very  cordially,  shake  them  by 
the  hand,  and  intimate  that  the  harvest  is  entirely  at  their  dis- 
posal. The  Arapahoes  take  them  at  their  word,  help  themselves 
most  liberally,  and  usually  turn  their  horses  into  the  cornfields 
afterward.  They  have  the  foresight,  however,  to  leave  enough 
of  tlie  crops  untouched  to  serve  as  an  inducement  for  planting 
the  fields  again  for  their  benefit  in  the  next  spring. 

The  human. race  in  this  part  of  the  world  is  separated  into 
three  divisions,  arranged  in  the  order  of  their  merits  ;  white 
men,  Indians,  and  Mexicans  ;  to  the  latter  of  whom  the  honor- 
able title  of  "  whites  "  is  by  no  means  conceded. 

In  spite  of  the  warm  sunset  of  that  evening  the  next  morn- 
ing was  a  dreary  and  cheerless  one.  It  rained  steadily,  clouds 
resting  upon  the  very  treetops.  We  crossed  the  river  to  visit 
the  Mormon  settlement.  As  we  passed  through  tlie  Avater, 
several  trappers  on  horseback  entered  it  from  the  other  side. 
Their  buckskin  frocks  were  soaked  through  by  the  rain,  and 
clung  fast  to  their  limbs  with  a  most  clammy  and  uncomfortable 
look.  The  water  was  trickling  down  their  faces,  and  dropping 
from  the  ends  of  their  rifles,  and  from  the  traps  which  each 
carried  at  the  pommel  of  his  saddle.  Horses  and  all,  they  liad 
a  most  disconsolate  and  woebegone  appearance,  which  we  could 
not  help  laughing  at,  forgetting  how  often  we  ourselves  had 
been  in  a  similar  plight. 

After  half  an  hour's  riding  we  saw  the  white  wagons  of 
the  Mormons  drawn  up  among  the  trees.  Axes  were  sounding, 
trees  were  falling,  and  log-huts  going  up  along  the  edge  of  the 
woods  and  upon  the  adjoining  meadow.  As  we  came  up  the 
Mormons  left  their  work  and  seated  themselves  on  the  timber 
around  us,  when  they  began  earnestly  to  discuss  points  of  the- 
ology, complain  of  the  ill-usage  they  had  received  from  the 
"  Gentiles,"  and  sound  a  lamentation  over  the  loss  of  their 
great  temple  at  Nauvoo.  After  remaining  with  them  an  hour 
we  rode  back  to  our  camp,  happy  that  the  settlements  had 
been  delivered  from  the  presence  of  such  blind  and  desperate 
fanatics. 

On  the  morning  after  this  we  left  the  Pueblo  for  Bent's 
Fort.     The  conduct  of  Raymond  had  lately  been  less  satis- 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AM)  OliEGON  TRAIL.  243 

factory  than  before,  and  we  had  discharged  him  as  soon  as  we 
arrived  at  the  former  place  ;  so  that  the  party,  ourselves  in- 
cluded, was  now  reduced  to  four.  There  was  some  uncer- 
tainty as  to  our  future  course.  The  trail  between  Bent's  Fort 
and  the  settlements,  a  distance  computed  at  six  hundred  miles, 
was  at  this  time  in  a  dangerous  state  ;  for  since  the  passage 
of  General  Kearny's  army,  great  numbers  of  hostile  Indians, 
chiefly  Pawnees  and  Comanches,  had  gathered  about  some 
parts  of  it.  A  little  after  this  time  the\'  became  so  numerous 
and  audacious,  that  scarcely  a  single  party,  however  large, 
passed  between  the  fort  and  the  frontier  without  some  token 
of  their  hostility.  The  news})apers  of  the  time  sufficiently 
display  this  state  of  things.  Many  men  were  killed,  and  great 
numbers  of  horses  and  mules  carried  off.  Not  long  since  I 
met  with  a  gentleman,  who,  during  the  autumn,  came  from 
Santa  Fe  to  Bent's  Fort,  when  he  found  a  party  of  seventy 
men,  who  thought  themselves  too  weak  to  go  down  to  the 
settlements  alone,  and  were  waiting  there  for  a  re- enforcement. 
Though  this  excessive  timidity  fully  proves  the  ignorance 
and  credulity  of  the  men,  it  may  also  evince  the  state  of  alarm 
which  prevailed  in  the  country.  When  we  were  there  in  the 
month  of  August,  the  danger  had  not  become  so  great.  There 
was  nothing  very  attractive  in  the  neighborhood.  We  sup- 
posed, moreover,  that  we  might  wait  tliere  half  the  winter 
without  finding  any  part}^  to  go  down  with  us  ;  for  Mr,  Sub- 
lette and  the  others  whom  w^e  had  relied  upon  had,  as  Richard 
told  us,  already  left  Bent's  Fort.  Thus  far  on  our  journey 
Fortune  had  kindly  befriended  us.  We  resolved  therefore  to 
take  advantage  of  her  gracious  mood,  and  trusting  for  a  con- 
tinuance of  her  favors,  to  set  out  with  Henry  and  Delorier, 
and  run  the  gauntlet  of  the  Indians  in  the  best  way  we  could. 
Bent's  Fort  stands  on  the  river,  about  seventy-five  miles 
below  the  Pueblo.  At  noon  of  the  third  da}'  we  arrived 
within  three  or  four  miles  of  it,  pitched  our  tent  under  a  tree, 
hung  our  looking-glasses  against  its  trunk,  and  having  made 
our  primitive  toilet,  rode  toward  the  fort.  We  soon  came  in 
sight  of  it,  for  it  is  visible  from  a  considerable  distance,  stand- 
ing with  its  high  clay  walls  in  the  midst  of  the  scorching 
plains.  It  seemed  as  if  a  swarm  of  locusts  had  invaded  the 
country.  The  grass  for  miles  around  was  cropped  close  by 
the  horses  of  General  Kearny's  soldiery.  When  we  came  to 
tlie  fort,  we  found  that  not  only  had  the  horses  eaten  up  the 
grass,  but  their  owners  had  made  away  with  the  stores  of  the 
little  trading  post  ;  so  that  we  had  great  difticulty  in  procur- 


244  THE  CALtFOJiNIA  AND  OllEGON  TRAIL. 

ing  the  few  articles  whicli  we  required  for  oiir  homeward 
journey.  The  army  was  goupt%  tlie  life  and  bustle  passed 
awa}^,  and  the  fort  was  a  scene  of  dull  and  lazy  tranquillity. 
A  few  invalid  officers  and  soldiers  sauntered  about  the  area, 
Ayhich  was  oppressive!}^  hot ;  for  the  glaring  sun  was  reflected 
down  upon  it  from  tlie  higli  white  walls  around.  The  pro- 
prietors were  absent,  and  we  were  received  by  Mr.  Holt,  who 
had  been  left  in  charge  of  the  fort.  He  invited  us  to  dinner, 
where,  to  our  admiration,  we  found  a  table  laid  with  a  white 
cloth,  with  castors  in  the  center  and  chairs  placed  around  it. 
This  unwonted  repast  concluded,  we  rode  back  to  our  camp. 

Here,  as  we  la}^  smoking  round  tlie  fire  after  supper,  we 
saw  through  the  dusk  three  men  approaching  from  the  direc- 
tion of  the  fort.  Thoy  rode  up  and  seated  themselves  near  us 
on  tlie  ground.  The  foremost  was  a  tall,  well-formed  man, 
with  a  face  and  manner  such  as  inspire  confidence  at  once. 
He  wore  a  broad  hat  of  felt,  slouching  and  tattered,  and  the 
rest  of  his  attire  consisted  of  a  frock  and  leggings  of  buckskin, 
rubbed  with  the  yellow  clay  found  among  the  mountains.  At 
tlie  heel  of  one  of  liis  moccasins  was  buckled  a  huge  iron  spur, 
with  a  rowel  five  or  six  inches  in  diameter.  His  iiorse,  who 
stood  quietl}'  looking  over  ids  head,  had  a  rude  Mexican  sad- 
dle, covered  with  a  shagg}^  bearskin,  and  furnished  with  a 
pair  of  wooden  stirrups  of  most  preposterous  size.  The  next 
man  was  a  sprightly,  active  little  fello\v,  about  five  feet  and  a 
quarter  high,  but  very  strong  and  compact.  His  face  was 
swarthy  as  a  Mexican's,  and  covered  with  a  close,  curly  black 
beard.  An  old  greasy  calico  handkerchief  was  tied  round 
his  head,  and  his  close  buckskin  dress  was  blackened  and 
polished  by  grease  and  hard  service.  The  last  who  came  up 
was  a  large,  strong  man,  dressed  in  the  coarse  homespun  of 
the  frontiers,  who  dragged  his  long  limbs  over  the  ground  as 
if  he  were  too  lazy  for  the  effort.  He  had  a  sleepy  gray  eye, 
a  retreating  chin,  an  open  mouth  and  a  protruding  upper  lip, 
which  gave  him  an  airof  exquisite  indolence  and  helplessness. 
He  was  armed  with  an  old  United  States  yager,  which  re- 
doubtable weapon,  though  he  could  never  hit  his  mark  with 
it,  he  was  accustomed  to  cherish  as  the  very  sovereign  of 
firearms. 

The  first  two  men  belonged  to  a  party  who  had  just  come 
from  California  with  a  large  band  of  horses,  which  they  had 
disposed  of  at  Bent's  Fort.  Munroe,  the  taller  of  the  two, 
was  from  Iowa.  He  was  an  excellent  fellow,  open,  warm- 
hearted, and  intelligent.     Jim  Gurney,  the  short  man,  was  a 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  245 

Boston  sailor,  who  had  come  in  a  trading  vessel  to  California, 
and  taken  the  fancy  to  return  across  the  continent.  The 
journey  had  already  made  hiifl  an  expert  "  mountain-man," 
and  he  })resented  the  extraordinary  phenomenon  of  a  sailor 
who  understood  how  to  manage  a  horse.  The  third  of  our 
visitors,  named  Ellis,  was  a  Missourian,  who  had  come  out 
with  a  party  of  Oregon  emigrants,  but  having  got  as  far  as 
Bridge's  Fort,  he  had  fallen  home-sick,  or  as  Jim  averred, 
love-sick — and  Ellis  was  just  the  man  to  be  balked  in  a  love 
adventure.  He  thought  proper  to  join  the  California  men, 
and  return  homeward  in  their  company. 

They  now  requested  that  they  might  unite  with  our  party, 
and  make  the  journey  to  the  settlements  in  company  with  us. 
We  readily  assented,  for  Ave  liked  the  appearance  of  the  first 
two  men,  and  were  very  glad  to  gain  so  efficient  a  re-enforce- 
ment. We  told  them  to  meet  us  on  the  next  evening  at  a 
spot  on  the  river  side,  about  six  miles  below  the  fort.  Hav- 
ing smoked  a  pipe  together,  our  new  allies  left  us,  and  we  lay 
down  to  sleep. 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

t£te  rouge,  the  volunteer. 

Ah,  me  !  what  evils  do  environ 

The  man  tliat  meddles  with  cold  iron, 

HUDIBRAS. 

The  next  morning,  having  directed  Delorier  to  repair  with 
his  cart  to  the  place  of  meeting,  we  came  again  to  the  fort  to 
make  some  arrangements  for  the  journe}^  After  completing 
these  we  sat  down  under  a  sort  of  perch,  to  smoke  with  some 
Cheyenne  Indians  whom  we  found  there.  In  a  few  minutes  we 
saw  an  extraordinary  little  figure  approach  us  in  a  military 
dress.  He  had  a  small,  round  countenance,  garnished  about 
the  eyes  with  the  kind  of  wrinkles  commonly  known  as  crow's 
feet  and  surrounded  by  an  abundant  crop  of  red  curls,  with  a 
little  cap  resting  on  the  top  of  them.  Altogether,  he  had  the 
look  of  a  man  more  conversant  with  mint  juleps  and  oyster 
suppers  than  with  the  hardships  of  prairie  service.  He  cnme 
up  to  us  and  entreated  that  we  would  take  him  home  to  the 
settlements,  saying  that  unless  he  went  with  us  he  should  have 
to  stay  all  winter  at  the  fort.  We  liked  our  petitioner's 
appearance  so  little  that  we  excused  ourselves  from  complying 
with  his  request.  At  this  he  begged  us  so  hard  to  take  pity 
on  hiiM,  looked  so  disconsolate,  and  toM  so  lanu^ntable  a  storv 


246  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

that  at  last  we  consented,  though  not  without  many  misgiv- 
ings. 

The  rugged  Anglo-Saxon  of  our  new  recruit's  real  name 
proved  utterly  unmanageable  on  the  lips  of  our  French  attend- 
ants, and  Henry  Chatilion,  after  various  abortive  attempts  to 
pronounce  it,  one  day  coolly  christened  him  Tete  Rouge,  in 
honor  of  his  red  curls.  He  had  at  different  times  been  clerk 
of  a  Mississippi  steamboat,  and  agent  in  a  trading  establish- 
ment at  Nauvoo,  besides  filling  various  other  capacities,  in  all 
of  which  he  had  seen  much  more  of  "  life"  than  was  good  for 
him.  In  the  spring,  thinking  that  a  summer's  campaigns  would 
be  an  agreeable  recreation,  he  had  joined  a  company  of  St. 
Louis  volunteers. 

"  There  were  three  of  us,"  said  T^te  Rouge,  "  me  and  Bill 
Stevens  and  John  Hopkins.  We  thought  we  would  just  go 
out  with  the  army,  and  when  we  had  conquered  the  country, 
we  would  get  discharged  and  take  our  pay,  you  know,  and  go 
down  to  Mexico.  They  say  there  is  plenty  of  fun  going  on 
there.  Then  we  could  go  back  to  New  Orleans  by  way  of 
Vera  Cruz." 

But  Tete  Rouge,  like  many  a  stouter  volunteer,  had  reck- 
oned without  his  host.  Fighting  Mexicans  was  a  less  amusing 
occupation  than  he  had  supposed,  and  his  pleasure  trip  Mas 
disagreeably  interrupted  by  brain  fever,  w^hich  attacked  him 
when  about  halfway  to  Bent's  Fort.  He  jolted  along  through 
the  rest  of  the  journey  in  a  baggage  wagon.  When  they  came 
to  the  fort  he  was  taken  out  and  left  there,  together  with  the 
rest  of  the  sick.  Bent's  Fort  does  not  suppl}^  the  best  accom- 
modations for  an  invalid.  Tete  Rouge's  sick  chamber  was  a 
little  mud  room,  where  he  and  a  companion  attacked  hj  the 
same  disease  were  laid  together,  with  nothing  but  a  buffalo 
robe  between  them  and  the  ground.  The  assistant  surgeon's 
deputy  visited  them  once  a  da}-  and  brought  them  each  a  huge 
dose  of  calomel,  the  owXy  medicine,  according  to  his  surviving 
victim,  which  he  was  acquainted  with. 

Tete  Rouge  woke  one  morning,  and  turning  to  his  com- 
panion, saw  his  eyes  fixed  upon  the  beams  above  with  the 
glassy  stare  of  a  dead  man.  At  this  the  unfortunate  volunteer 
lost  his  senses  outright.  In  spite  of  the  doctor,  however,  he 
eventually  recovered  ;  though  between  the  brain  fever  and 
the  calomel,  his  mind,  originally  none  of  the  strongest,  was  so 
much  shaken  that  it  had  not  quite  recovered  its  balance  when 
we  came  to  the  fort.  In  spite  of  the  poor  fellow's  tragic  story, 
there  was  something  so  ludicrous  in  his  appearance,  and  the 


THE  CALIFORNTA   AM)   OREGON  TRAIL.  247 

whimsical  contrast  between  his  military  dress  and  his  most 
iinmilitary  demeanor,  that  we  could  not  help  smiling  at  them. 
We  asked  him  if  he  liad  a  gwu.  He  said  they  had  taken  it 
from  him  during  his  illness,  and  he  had  not  seen  it  since  ;  "  but 
perhaps,"  he  observed,  looking  at  me  with  a  beseeching  air, 
"  you  will  lend  me  one  of  your  big  pistols  if  we  should  meet  with 
any  Indians."  I  next  inquired  if  he  had  a  horse  ;  he  declared 
he  had  a  magnificent  one,  and  at  Shaw's  request  a  Mexican 
led  him  in  for  inspection.  He  exhibited  the  outline  of  a  good 
horse,  but  his  eyes  were  sunk  in  the  sockets,  and  every  one  of 
his  ribs  could  be  counted.  There  were  certain  marks  too  about 
his  shoulders,  which  could  be  accounted  for  by  the  circum- 
stance, that  during  Tete  Rouge's  illness,  his  companions  had 
seized  upon  the  insulted  charger,  and  harnessed  him  to  a  can- 
non along  with  the  draft  horses.  To  Tete  Rouge's  astonish- 
ment we  recommended  him  by  all  means  to  exchange  the 
horse,  if  he  could,  for  a  mule.  Fortunately  the  people  at  the 
fort  were  so  anxious  to  get  rid  of  him  that  they  were  willing 
to  make  some  sacrifice  to  effect  the  object,  and  he  succeeded 
in  getting  a  tolerable  mule  in  exchange  for  the  broken-down 
steed. 

A  man  soon  appeared  at  the  gate,  leading  in  the  mule  by  a 
cord  which  he  placed  in  the  hands  of  Tete  Rouge,  who,  being 
somewhat  afraid  of  his  new  acquisition,  tried  various  flatteries 
and  blandishments  to  induce  her  to  come  forward.  The  mule, 
knowing  that  she  was  expected  to  advance,  stopped  short  in 
consequence,  and  stood  fast  as  a  rock,  looking  straight  forward 
with  immovable  composure.  Being  stimulated  by  a  blow  from 
behind  she  consented  to  move,  and  walked  nearly  to  the  other 
side  of  the  fort  before  she  stopped  again.  Hearing  the  bj^- 
standers  laugh,  Tete  Rouge  plucked  up  spirit  and  tugged  hard 
at  the  rope.  The  tnule  jerked  backward,  spun  herself  round, 
and  made  a  dash  for  the  gate.  Tete  Rouge,  who  clung  man- 
full}^  to  the  rope,  went  whisking  through  the  air  for  a  few 
rods,  when  he  let  go  and  stood  with  his  mouth  open,  staring 
after  the  mule,  who  galloped  away  over  the  prairie.  She  was 
soon  caught  and  brought  back  by  a  Mexicati,  who  mounted  a 
horse  and  went  in  pursuit  of  her  with  his  lasso. 

Having  thus  displayed  his  capacities  for  prairie  traveling, 
Tete  proceeded  to  supply  himself  with  provisions  for  the  jour- 
!iey,  and  with  this  view  he  applied  to  a  quartermaster's  assist- 
ant who  was  in  the  fort.  This  official  had  a  face  as  sour  as 
vinegar,  being  in  a  state  of  chronic  indignation  because  he  had 
been  left  behind  the  army.     He  was  as  anxious  as  the  rest  to 


248  THE   CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

get  rid  of  Tete  Rouge.  So,  producing  a  rusty  key,  lie  opened 
a  low  door  which  led  to  a  half-subterranean  apartment,  into 
which  the  two  disappeared  together.  After  some  time  ihey 
came  out  again,  Tete  Rouge  greatly  embarrassed  by  a  multi- 
plicity of  paper  parcels  containing  the  different  articles  of  his 
forty  days'  rations.  They  Avere  consigned  to  the  care  of 
Delorier,  who  about  that  time  passed  by  with  the  cart  on  his 
way  to  the  appointed  place  of  meeting  with  Munroe  and  his 
companions. 

We  next  urged  Tete  Rouge  to  provide  himself,  if  he  could, 
with  a  gun.  He  accordingly  made  earnest  appeals  to  the 
charity  of  various  persons  in  the  fort,  but  totally  without 
success,  a  circumstance  which  did  not  greatly  disturb  us, 
since  in  the  event  of  a  skirmish  he  Avould  be  much  more  apt 
to  do  mischief  to  himself  or  his  friends  than  to  the  enemy. 
When  all  these  arrangements  were  completed,  we  saddled 
our  horses  and  were  preparing  to  leave  the  fort,  when  look- 
ing round  we  discovered  that  our  new  associate  was  in  fresh 
trouble.  A  man  was  holding  the  mule  for  him  in  the  middle 
of  the  fort,  while  he  tried  to  put  the  saddle  on  her  back,  but 
she  kept  stepping  sideways  and  moving  round  and  round  in  a 
circle  until  he  was  almost  in  despair.  It  required  some  as- 
sistance before  all  his  difficulties  could  be  overcome.  At 
length  he  clambered  into  the  black  war  saddle  on  which  he 
was  to  have  carried  terror  into  the  ranks  of  the  Mexicans. 

"  Get  up,"  said  Tete  Rouge,  "  come  now,  go  along,  will 
you." 

The  mule  walked  deliberately  forward  out  of  the  gate. 
Her  recent  conduct  had  inspired  him  with  so  much  awe  that 
he  never  dared  to  touch  her  with  his  whip.  We  trotted  for- 
ward toward  the  place  of  meeting,  but  before  he  had  gone  far 
we  saw  that  Tete  Rouge's  mule,  who  perfectly  understood 
her  rider,  had  stopped  and  was  quietly  grazing,  in  spite  of  his 
protestations,  at  some  distance  behind.  So  getting  behind 
him,  we  drove  him  and  the  contumacious  mule  before  us, 
until  we  could  see  through  the  twilight  the  gleaming  of  a 
distant  fire.  Munroe,  Jim,  and  Ellis  were  lying  around  it  ; 
their  saddles,  packs,  and  weapons  were  scattered  about  and 
their  horses  picketed  near  them.  Delorier  was  there  too 
with  our  little  cart.  Another  fire  was  soon  blazing  high. 
We  invited  our  new  allies  to  take  a  cup  of  coffee  with  us. 
When  both  the  others  had  gone  over  to  their  side  of  the 
camp,  Jim  Gurney  still  stood  by  the  blaze,  puffing  hard  at  his 
little  black  pipe,  as  short  and  weather-beaten  as  himself. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL.  249 

"  Well  I "  he  said,  "  here  are  eight  of  us  ;  weHl  call  it  six — 
for  them  two  boobies,  Ellis  over  yonder,  and  that  new  man 
of  yours,  won't  count  for  anything.  We'll  get  through  well 
enough,  never  fear  for  that,  unless  the  Comanches  happen  to 
get  foul  of  us." 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

INDIAN     ALARMS. 

To  all  the  sensual  world  proclaim, 

One  crowded  hour  of  glorious  life 
Were  worth  an  age  without  a  name. 

Scott. 

We  began  our  journey  for  the  frontier  settlements  on  the 
27th  of  August,  and  certainly  a  more  ragamuffin  cavalcade 
never  was  seen  on  the  banks  of  the  Upper  Arkansas.  Of 
the  large  and  fine  horses  with  which  we  had  left  the  frontier 
in  the  spring,  not  one  remained  ;  we  had  supplied  their  place 
with  the  rough  breed  of  the  prairie,  as  hardy  as  mules  and 
almost  as  ugly;  we  had  also  with  us  a  number  of  the  latter 
detestable  animals.  In  spite  of  their  strength  and  hardihood, 
several  of  the  band  were  already  w'orn  down  by  hard  service 
and  hard  fare,  and  as  none  of  them  were  shod,  tliey  were  fast 
becoming  foot-sore.  Every  horse  and  mule  had  a  cord  of 
twisted  bull-hide  coiled  around  his  neck,  which  by  no  means 
added  to  the  beauty  of  his  appearance.  Our  saddles  and  all 
our  equipments  were  by  this  time  lamentabh^  worn  and  bat- 
tered, and  our  weajions  had  become  dull  and  rusty.  The  dress 
of  the  riders  fully  corresponded  with  the  dilapidated  furniture 
of  our  horses,  and  of  the  whole  party  none  made  a  more  dis- 
reputable appearance  than  my  friend  and  I.  Shaw  had  for 
an  upper  garment  an  old  red  flannel  shirt,  flying  open  in 
front  and  belted  around  him  like  a  frock  ;  while  I,  in  absence 
of  other  clothing,  was  attired  in  a  time-worn  suit  of  leather. 

Thus,  happy  and  careless  as  so  many  beggars,  we  crept 
slowly  from  day  to  day  along  the  monotonous  banks  oi  the 
Arkansas.  Tete  Rouge  gave  constant  trouble,  for  he  couKl 
never  catch  his  mule,  saddle  her,  or  indeed  do  anything  else 
witiiout  assistance.  Every  day  lie  had  some  new  ailment,  real 
or  imaginary,  to  complain  of.  At  one  moment  he  would  be 
woebegone  and  disconsolate,  and  the  next  he  would  oe  visited 
with  a  violent  flow  of  spirits,  to  which  he  could  oidy  give  vent 
by  incessant  laughing,  whistling,  and  telling  stories.  When 
other  resources  failed,  we  used  toanuise  ourselves  by  torment- 


250  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

ing  him  ;  a  fair  compensation  for  the  trouble  he  cost  us.  Tete 
Rouge  rather  enjoyed  being  laughed  at,  for  he  was  an  odd 
compound  of  weakness,  eccentricity,  and  good-nature.  He 
made  a  figure  worthy  of  a  painter  as  he  paced  along  before 
u.s,  perched  on  the  back  of  his  mule,  and  enveloped  in  a  huge 
buffalo-robe  coat,  which  some  charitable  person  had  given  him 
at  the  fort.  This  extraordinary  garment,  which  would  have 
contained  two  men  oi  his  size,  he  chose,  for  some  reason  best 
known  to  himself,  to  wear  inside  out,  and  he  never  took  it  off, 
even  in  the  hottest  weather.  It  was  fluttering  all  over  with 
seams  and  tatters,  and  the  hide  was  so  old  and  rotten  that  it 
broke  out  every  day  in  a  new  place.  Just  at  the  top  of  it  a 
large  pile  of  red  curls  was  visible,  with  his  little  cap  set 
jauntily  upon  one  side,  to  give  him  a  militar}^  air.  His  seat 
in  the  saddle  was  no  less  remarkable  than  his  person  and 
equipment.  He  pressed  one  leg  close  against  his  mule's  side, 
and  thrust  the  other  out  at  an  angle  of  45^.  His  pantaloons 
were  decorated  Avith  a  military  red  stripe,  of  which  he  was 
extremely  vain  ;  but  being  much  too  short,  the  whole  length 
of  his  boots  was  usually  visible  below  them.  His  blanket, 
loosely  rolled  up  into  a  large  bundle,  dangled  at  the  back  of 
his  saddle,  where  he  carried  it  tied  with  a  string.  Four  or 
five  times  a  day  it  would  fall  to  the  ground.  Every  few 
minutes  he  would  drop  his  pipe,  his  knife,  his  flint  and  steel, 
or  a  piece  of  tobacco,  and  have  to  scramble  down  to  pick 
them  up.  In  doing  this  he  would  contrive  to  get  in  every- 
body's way  ;  and  as  the  most  of  the  party  were  by  no  means 
remarkable  for  a  fastidious  choice  of  language,  a  storm  of 
anathemas  would  be  showered  upon  him,  half  in  earnest  and 
half  in  jest,  until  Tete  Rouge  would  declare  that  there  was 
no  comfort  in  life,  and  that  he  never  saw  such  fellows  before. 

Only  a  day  or  two  after  leaving  Bent's  Fort  Henry  Cha- 
tillon  rode  forward  to  hunt,  and  took  Ellis  along  with  him. 
After  they  had  been  some  time  absent  we  saw  them  coming 
down  the  hill,  driving  three  dragoon-horses,  which  had  escaped 
from  their  owners  on  the  march,  or  perhaps  had  given  out  and 
been  abandoned.  One  of  them  was  in  tolerable  condition,  but 
the  others  were  much  emaciated  and  severely  bitten  by  the 
wolves.  Reduced  as  they  were  we  carried  two  of  them  to  the 
settlements,  and  Henry  exchanged  the  third  with  the  Arapa- 
hoes  for  an  excellent  mule. 

On  the  day  after,  when  we  had  stopped  to  rest  at  noon,  a 
long  train  of  Santa  Fe  wagons  came  up  and  trailed  slowly  past 
us  in  their  picturesque  procession.     They  belonged  to  a  trader 


THE  CALIFORNIA   AM)   OREGON  TRAIL  251 

named  Magoffin,  whose  brother,  with  a  number  of  other  men, 
came  over  and  sat  down  around  us  on  tlie  grass.  The  news 
they  brought  was  not  of  the  most  pleasing  complexion.  Ac- 
cording to  their  accounts,  the  trail  below  was  in  a  very  danger- 
ous state.  They  had  repeatedly  detected  Indians  prowling  at 
night  around  their  camps  ;  and  the  large  party  which  had  left 
Bent's  Fort  a  few  weeks  previous  to  our  own  departure  had 
been  attacked,  and  a  man  named  Swan,  from  Massachusetts, 
had  been  killed.  His  companions  had  buried  the  body  ;  but 
when  Magoffin  found  his  grave,  which  was  near  a  place  called 
the  Caches,  the  Indians  had  dug  up  and  scalped  him,  and 
the  wolves  had  shockingly  mangled  his  remains.  As  an  offset 
to  this  intelligence,  they  gave  us  tlie  welcome  information  that 
the  buffalo  were  numerous  at  a  few  days'  journey  below. 

On  the  next  afternoon,  as  we  moved  along  the  bank  of  the 
river,  we  saw  the  white  tops  of  wagons  on  the  liorizon.  It  was 
some  hours  before  we  met  them,  when  they  proved  to  be  a 
train  of  clumsy  ox-wagons,  quite  different  from  the  rakish 
vehicles  of  the  Santa  Fe  traders,  and  loaded  with  government 
stores  for  the  troops.  They  all  stopped,  and  the  drivers 
gathered  around  us  in  a  crowd,  I  thought  that  the  whole 
frontier  might  have  been  ransacked  in  vain  to  furnish  men 
worse  fitted  to  meet  the  dangers  of  the  prairie.  Many  of  them 
were  mere  boys,  fresh  from  the  plow,  and  devoid  of  knowl- 
edge and  experience.  In  respect  to  the  state  of  the  trail,  they 
confirmed  all  that  the  Santa  Fe  men  had  told  us.  In  passing 
between  the  Pawnee  Fork  and  the  Caches,  their  sentinels  had 
fired  every  night  at  real  or  imaginary  Indians.  They  said  also 
that  Ewing,  a  young  Kentuckian  in  the  party  that  had  gone 
down  before  us,  had  shot  an  Indian  who  was  prowling  at 
evening  about  the  camp.  Some  of  them  advised  us  to  turn 
back,  and  others  to  hasten  forward  as  fast  as  we  could  ;  but 
they  all  seemed  in  such  a  state  of  feverish  anxiety,  and  so 
little  capable[of  cool  judgment,  tliat  we  attached  slight  weight 
to  what  they  said.  They  next  gave  us  a  more  definite  piece 
of  intelligence  ;  a  large  village  of  Arapahoes  was  encamped  on 
the  river  below.  They  represented  them  to  be  quite  friendly  ; 
but  some  distinction  was  to  be  made  between  a  party  of  thirty 
men,  traveling  with  oxen,  which  are  of  no  value  in  an  Indian's 
eyes,  and  a  mere  handful  like  ourselves,  with  a  tempting  band 
of  mules  and  horses.  This  story  of  the  Arapahoes  therefore 
caused  us  some  anxiety. 

Just  after  leaving  the  government  wagons,  as  Sliaw  and  I 
were  riding  along  a  narrow  passage  between  the  river  bank 


252  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

and  a  rough  hill  that  pressed  close  upon  it,  we  heard  Tete 
Rouge's  voice  beliind  us.  "Hallo  !  "  he  called  out  ;  "  I  say, 
stop  the  cart  just  for  a  minute,  will  you  ?  " 

"  What's  the  matter,  Tete  ?  "  asked  Shaw,  as  he  came  rid- 
ing up  to  us  with  a  grin  of  exultation.  He  had  a  bottle  of 
molasses  in  one  hand,  and  a  large  bundle  of  hides  on  the  saddle 
before  him,  containing,  as  he  triumphantly  informed  us,  sugar, 
biscuits,  coffee,  and  rice.  These  supplies  he  had  obtained  by  a 
stratagem  on  which  he  greatly  plumed  himself,  and  he  was 
extremely  vexed  and  astonished  that  we  did  not  fall  in  with 
liis  views  of  the  matter.  He  had  told  Coates,  the  master- 
wagoner,  that  the  commissary  at  the  fort  had  given  him  an  order 
for  sick-rations,  directed  to  the  master  of  any  government  train 
which  he  might  meet  upon  the  road.  This  order  he  had  unfor- 
tunatel}''  lost,  but  he  hoped  that  the  rations  w  ould  not  be  refused 
on  that  account,  as  he  was  suffering  from  coarse  fare  and 
needed  them  very  much.  As  soon  as  he  came  to  camp  that 
night  Tete  Rouge  repaired  to  the  box  at  the  back  of  the  cart, 
where  Delorier  used  to  keep  his  cuKnarj^  apparatus,  took  pos- 
session of  a  saucepan,  and  after  building  a  little  fire  of  his  own, 
set  to  work  preparing  a  meal  out  of  his  ill-gotten  booty.  This 
done,  he  seized  on  a  tin  plate  and  spoon,  and  sat  down  under 
the  cart  to  regale  himself.  His  preliminary  repast  did  not  at 
all  prejudice  his  subsequent  exertions  at  supper  ;  where,  in 
spite  of  his  miniature  dimensions,  he  made  a  better  figure 
than  any  of  us.  Indeed,  about  this  time  liis  appetite  grew 
quite  voracious.  He  began  to  thrive  wonderfully.  His  small 
body  visibly  expanded,  and  his  cheeks,  which  when  we  first 
took  him  were  rather  yellow  and  cadaverous,  now  dilated  in  a 
wonderful  manner,  and  became  ruddy  in  proportion.  Tete 
Rouge,  in  short,  began  to  appear  like  another  man. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  of  the  next  da}^,  looking  along  the 
edge  of  the  horizon  in  front,  we  saw  that  at  one  point  it  was 
faintl}^  marked  with  pale  indentations,  like  the  teeth  of  a  saw. 
The  lodges  of  the  Arapahocs,  rising  between  us  and  the  sky, 
caused  this  singular  appearance.  It  wanted  still  two  or  three 
hours  of  sunset  when  we  came  opposite  their  camp.  There 
^vere  full  two  hundred  lodges  standing  in  the  midst  of  a  grassy 
meadow  at  some  distance  beyond  the  river,  while  for  a  mile 
around  and  on  either  bank  of  the  Arkansas  were  scattered  some 
fifteen  hundred  horses  and  mules,  grazing  together  in  bands,  or 
wandering  singly  about  the  prairie.  The  whole  were  visible  at 
once,  for  the  vast  expanse  "was  unbroken  by  hills,  and  there 
was  not  a  tree  or  a  bush  to  intercept  the  view. 


THE  CALIFOliMA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL  253 

llure  and  there  walked  an  Indian,  engaged  in  watcliing  the 
horses.  No  sooner  did  we  see  tlieni  than  Tete  Rouge  begged 
Delorier  to  stop  the  cart  and  hand  him  his  little  military 
jacket,  which  was  stowed  away  there.  In  this  he  instantly 
invested  himself,  having  for  once  laid  the  old  buffalo  coat 
aside,  assumed  a  most  martial  posture  in  the  saddle,  set  his 
cap  over  his  left  eye  with  an  air  of  defiance,  and  earnestly 
entreated  that  somebody  would  lend  him  a  gun  or  a  pistol 
only  for  half  an  hour.  Being  called  upon  to  explain  these 
remarkable  proceed ini;s,  Tete  Rouge  observed  that  he  knew 
from  experience  what  effect  the  presence  of  a  military  man  in 
liis  uniform  always  had  upon  the  mind  of  an  Indian,  and  he 
tliought  the  Arapahoes  ought  to  know  that  there  was  a 
soldier  in  the  party. 

Meeting  Arapahoes  here  on  the  Arkansas  was  a  very  differ- 
ent thing  from  meeting  the  same  Indians  among  their  native 
mountains.  There  was  another  circumstance  in  our  favor. 
General  Kearny  had  seen  them  a  few  weeks  before,  as  he 
came  up  the  river  with  his  army,  and  renewing  his  threats  of 
the  previous  year,  he  told  tliem  that  if  they  ever  again  touclied 
the  hair  of  a  white  man's  head  he  would  exterminate  their 
nation.  This  placed  them  for  the  time  in  an  admirable  frame 
of  mind,  and  the  effect  of  his  menaces  had  not  yet  disappeared. 
I  was  anxious  to  see  the  village  and  its  inhabitants.  We  thought 
it  also  our  best  policy  to  visit  them  openly,  as  if  unsuspicious 
of  any  hostile  design  ;  and  Shaw  and  I,  with  Henry  Chatillon, 
prepaied  to  cross  the  river.  The  rest  of  the  party  meanwhile 
moved  forward  as  fast  as  they  could,  in  order  to  get  as  far  as 
possible  from  our  suspicious  neighbors  before  night  came  on. 

The  Arkansas  at  tliis  point,  and  for  several  liundred  miles 
below,  is  nothing  but  a  broad  sand-bed,  over  which  a  few 
scanty  threads  of  water  are  swiftly  gliding,  now  and  then 
expanding  into  wide  shallows.  At  several  places,  during  the 
autumn,  the  water  sinks  into  the  sand  and  disappears  altogether. 
At  this  season,  were  it  not  for  the  numerous  quicksands, 
the  river  might  be  forded  almost  anywhere  without  difficulty, 
though  its  channel  is  often  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide.  Our 
horses  jumped  down  the  bank,  nn«l  wading  through  the  water, 
or  galloping  freely  over  the  hard  sa!ul-beds,  soon  reached  the 
other  si<lc.  Here,  as  we  were  pushing  through  the  tall  giass, 
we  saw  several  Indians  not  far  off  ;  one  of  them  waited  until 
we  came  up,  and  stood  for  some  moments  in  perfect  silence 
before  us,  looking  at  us  askance  with  his  little  snakelike  eyes. 
Henr\^  explained  by  signs  what  we  wanted,  and  the  Indian, 


254  THE  CALIFORNIA  AM)  OREGON  TRAIL. 

gathering  his  buffalo  robe  about  his  shoulders,  led  the  way 
toward  the  village  without  speaking  a  word. 

The  language  of  the  Arapahoes  is  so  difficult,  and  its  pro- 
nunciation so  harsh  and  guttural,  that  no  white  man,  it  is  said, 
has  ever  been  able  to  master  it.  Even  Maxwell  the  trader, 
who  has  been  most  among  them,  is  compelled  to  resort  to  the 
curious  sign  language  common  to  most  of  the  prairie  tribes. 
With  this  Henry  Chatillon  was  perfectly  acquainted. 

Approaching  the  village,  we  found  the  ground  all  around  it 
strewn  with  great  piles  of  waste  buffalo  meat  in  incredible 
quantities.  The  lodges  were  pitched  in  a  very  wide  circle. 
They  resembled  those  of  the  Dakota  in  everything  but 
cleanliness  and  neatness.  Passing  between  two  of  them,  we 
entered  the  great  circular  area  of  the  camp,  and  instantly  hun- 
dreds of  Indians,  men,  women,  and  children,  came  flocking  out 
of  their  habitations  to  look  at  us  ;  at  the  same  time,  the  dogs 
all  around  the  village  set  up  a  fearful  baying.  Our  Indian 
guide  walked  toward  the  lodge  of  the  chief.  Here  we  dis- 
mounted ;  and  loosening  the  trail-ropes  from  our  horses'  necks, 
held  them  seciirely,  and  sat  down  before  the  entrance,  with 
our  rifles  laid  across  our  laps.  Tlie  chief  came  out  and  shook 
us  by  the  hand.  He  was  a  mean-looking  fellow,  very  tall, 
thin  visaged,  and  sinewy,  like  the  rest  of  the  nation,  and  with 
scarcely  a  vestige  of  clothing.  We  had  not  been  seated  half  a 
minute  before  a  multitude  of  Indians  came  crowding  around  us 
from  every  part  of  the  village,  and  we  were  shut  in  by  a  dense 
wall  of  savage  faces.  Some  of  the  Indians  crouched  around 
us  on  the  ground  ;  others  again  sat  behind  them  ;  others, 
stooping,  looked  over  their  heads  ;  while  man}^  more  stood 
crowded  beliind,  stretching  themselves  upward,  and  peering 
over  eacli  other's  shoulders,  to  get  a  view  of  us.  I  looked  in 
vain  among  this  multitude  of  faces  to  discover  one  manly  or 
generous  expression  ;  all  were  wolfish,  sinister,  and  malignant, 
and  their  complexions,  as  well  as  their  features,  unlike  those 
of  the  Dakota,  were  exceedingly  bad.  The  chief,  who  sat 
close  to  the  entrance,  called  to  a  squaw  within  the  lodge,  who 
soon  came  out  and  placed  a  wooden  bowl  of  meat  before  us. 
To  our  surprise,  however,  no  pipe  was  offered.  Having  tasted 
of  the  meat  as  a  matter  of  form,  I  began  to  open  a  bundle  of 
presents — tobacco,  knives,  vermilion,  and  other  articles  which 
I  had  brought  with  me.  At  this  there  was  a  grin  on  every 
countenance  in  the  rapacious  crowd  ;  their  ej^es  began  to 
glitter,  and  long  thin  arms  were  eagerly  stretched  toward  us 
on  all  sides  to  receive  the  gifts. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OUEOON  TRAIL.  255 

The  Arapahoes  set  great  value  upon  their  shields,  which 
they  transmit  carefully  from  father  to  son.  I  wished  to  get 
one  of  them  ;  and  displaying  a  large  piece  of  scarlet  cloth, 
together  with  some  tobacco  and  a  knife,  I  ojfferedthem  to  any- 
one w^ho  would  bring  me  what  I  wanted.  After  some  delay 
a  tolerable  shield  was  produced.  They  were  very  anxious  to 
know  what  we  meant  to  do  with  it,  and  Henry  told  them  that 
we  were  going  to  light  their  enemies,  the  Pawnees.  This 
instantly  produced  a  visible  impression  in  our  favor,  which  was 
increased  by  the  distribution  of  the  presents.  Among  these 
was  a  large  paper. of  awls,  a  gift  appropriate  to  the  women  ; 
and  as  we  were  anxious  to  see  the  beauties  of  the  Arapahoe 
village  Henry  requested  that  they  might  be  called  to  receive 
them.  A  warrior  gave  a  shout  as  if  he  were  calling  a  pack  of 
dogs  together.  The  squaws,  young  and  old,  hags  of  eighty 
and  girls  of  sixteen,  came  running  with  screams  and  laughter 
out  of  the  lodges  ;  and  as  the  men  gave  way  for  them  they 
gathered  round  us  and  stretched  out  their  arms,  grinning  with 
delight,  their  native  ugliness  considerably  enhanced  by  the 
excitement  of  the  moment. 

Mounting  our  horses,  which  during  the  whole  interview  w^e 
had  held  close  to  us,  we  prepared  to  leave  the  Arapahoes. 
The  crowd  fell  back  on  each  side  and  stood  looking  on.  When 
we  Avere  half  across  the  camp  an  idea  occurred  to  us.  The 
Pawnees  were  probably  in  the  neighborliood  of  the  Caches  ; 
we  might  tell  the  Arapahoes  of  this  and  instigate  them  to 
send  down  a  war  party  and  cut  them  off,  while  we  ourselves 
could  remain  behind  for  a  while  and  hunt  the  buffalo.  At 
first  thought  this  plan  of  setting  our  enemies  to  destroy  one 
anotlier  seemed  to  us  a  masterpiece  of  policy  ;  but  we  imme- 
diately recollected  that  should  we  meet  the  Arapahoe  warriors 
on  the  river  below  they  might  prove  quite  as  dangerous  as  the 
Pawnees  themselves.  So  rejecting  our  plan  as  soon  as  it 
presented  itself,  we  passed  out  of  the  village  on  the  farther 
side.  We  urged  our  horses  rapidly  through  the  tall  grass 
which  rose  to  their  necks.  Several  Indians  were  walking 
through  it  at  a  distance,  their  heads  just  visible  above  its 
waving  surface.  It  bore  a  kind  of  seed  as  sweet  and  nutri- 
tious as  oats  ;  and  our  hungry  horses,  in  spite  of  whip  and 
rein,  could  not  resist  the  temptation  of  snatching  at  this 
unwonted  luxury  as  we  passed  along.  When  about  a  mile 
from  the  village  I  turned  and  looked  back  over  the  undulating 
ocean  of  grass.  The  sun  was  just  set ;  the  western  sky  was 
all  in  a  glow,  and  sharply  defined  against  it,  on  the  extreme 


25G  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

verge  of  the  plain,  stood  the  numerous  lodges  of  the  Arapahoe 
camp. 

Reaching  the  bank  of  the  river,  we  followed  it  for  some 
distance  farther,  until  we  discerned  through  the  twilight  the 
white  covering  of  our  little  cart  on  the  opposite  bank.  When 
we  reached  it  we  found  a  considerable  number  of  Indians 
there  before  us.  Four  or  five  of  them  were  seated  in  a  row 
upon  the  ground,  looking  like  so  many  half -starved  vultures. 
Tete  Rouge,  in  his  uniform,  was  holding  a  close  colloquy  witli 
another  by  the  side  of  the  cart.  His  gesticulations,  his 
attempts  at  sign-making,  and  the  contortions  of  his  counte- 
nance, were  most  ludicrous  ;  and  finding  all  these  of  no  avail, 
he  tried  to  make  the  Indian  understand  him  by  repeating 
English  words  yqvj  loudly  and  distinctly  again  and  again. 
The  Indian  sat  with  his  eye  fixed  steadily  upon  him,  and  in 
spite  of  the  rigid  immobility  of  his  features,  it  was  clear  at  a 
glance  that  he  perfectly  understood  his  military  companion's 
character  and  thoroughly  despised  him.  The  exhibition  was 
more  amusing  than  politic,  and  Tete  Rouge  was  directed  to 
finish  what  he  had  to  say  as  soon  as  possible.  Thus  rebuked, 
he  crept  under  the  cart  and  sat  down  there  ;  Henry  Chatillon 
stooped  to  look  at  him  in  his  retirement,  and  remarked  in  his 
quiet  maimer  that  an  Indian  would  kill  ten  such  men  and 
laugh  all  the  time. 

One  by  one  our  visitors  arose  and  stalked  away.  As  the 
darkness  thickened  we  were  saluted  by  dismal  sounds.  The 
wolves  are  incredibly  numerous  in  this  part  of  the  country, 
and  the  offal  around  the  Arapahoe  camp  had  drawn  such  multi- 
tudes of  them  together  that  several  hundreds  were  howling 
in  concert  in  our  immediate  neighborhood.  There  was  an 
island  in  the  river,  or  rather  an  oasis  in  the  midst  of  the  sands 
at  about  the  distance  of  a  gun-shot,  and  here  they  seemed 
gathered  in  the  grer.test  numbers.  A  horrible  discord  of  low 
mournful  wailings,  mingled  with  ferocious  howlc.,  arose  from 
it  incessantly  for  several  hours  after  sunset.  We  could  dis- 
tinctly see  the  wolves  running  al)Out  the  prairie  within  a  few 
rods  of  our  fire,  or  bounding  over  the  sand-beds  of  the  river 
and  splashing  through  the  water.  There  was  not  the  slightest 
danger  to  be  feared  from  them,  for  they  are  the  greatest  cow- 
ards on  the  prairie. 

In  respect  to  the  human  wolves  in  our  neighborhood,  we 
felt  much  less  at  our  ease>  We  seldom  erected  our  tent  except 
in  bad  weather,  and  that  night  each  man  spread  his  buffalo  robe 
upon  the  ground  with  his  loaded  rifle  laid  at  his  side  or  clasped 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  257 

in  his  arms.  Our  liorses  were  picketed  so  close  around  us  that 
ono  of  them  repeatedly  stepped  over  me  as  I  lay.  We  were 
not  in  tlie  habit  of  placing  a  guard,  but  every  man  that  night 
was  anxious  and  watchful;  there  was  little  sound  sleeping  in 
camp,  and  some  one  of  the  party  was  on  his  feet  during  tlie 
greater  part  of  the  time.  For  myself,  I  lay  alternately  waking 
and  dozing  until  midnight.  Tete  Rouge  was  reposing  close 
to  the  river  bank,  and  about  this  time,  when  half  asleep  and 
half  awake,  I  was  conscious  that  lie  shifted  his  position  and 
crept  on  all-fours  under  the  cart.  Soon  after  1  fell  into  a 
sound  sleep  from  which  I  was  aroused  by  a  hand  shaking  me 
by  the  shoulder.  Looking  up,  I  saw  Tete  Rouge  stooping 
over  me  with  his  face  quite  pale  and  his  eyes  dilated  to  their 
utmost  expansion. 

"  What's  the  matter?"  said  I. 

Tete  Rouge  declared  that  as  he  lay  on  the  river  bank, 
something  caught  Lis  eye  which  excited  his  suspicions.  So 
creeping  under  the  cart  for  safety's  sake  he  sat  there  and 
watched,  when  he  saw  two  Indians,  wrapped  in  white  robes, 
creep  up  the  bank,  seize  upon  two  horses  and  lead  them  off. 
He  looked  so  frightened,  and  told  his  story  in  such  a  discon- 
nected manner,  that  I  did  not  believe  him,  and  was  unwilling 
to  alarm  the  party.  Still  it  might  be  true,  and  in  that  case 
the  matter  required  instant  attention.  There  would  be  no 
time  for  examination,  and  so  directing  Tete  Rouge  to  show 
me  which  way  the  Indians  had  gone,  I  took  my  rifle,  in  obedi- 
ence to  a  thoughtless  impulse,  and  left  the  camp.  I  followed 
tlie  river  back  for  two  or  three  hundred  j^ards,  listening  and 
looking  anxiously  on  every  side.  In  the  dark  prairie  on  the 
right  1  could  discern  nothing  to  excite  alarm  ;  and  in  the 
dusky  bed  of  the  river,  a  wolf  was  bounding  along  in  a  man- 
ner which  no  Indian  could  imitate.  I  returned  to  the  camp, 
and  when  within  sight  of  it,  saw  that  the  whole  party  was 
aroused.  Shaw  called  out  to  me  that  he  had  counted  the 
horses,  and  that  every  one  of  them  was  in  his  place.  Tete 
Rouge,  being  examined  as  to  what  he  had  seen,  only  repeated 
his  former  story  with  many  asseverations,  and  insisted  that 
two  horses  were  certainly  carried  off.  At  this  Jim  Gurney 
declared  that  he  was  craz}'  ;  Tete  Rouge  indignantly  denied 
the  charge,  on  which  Jim  appealed  to  us.  As  we  declined  to 
give  our  judgment  on  so  delicate  a  matter,  the  dispute  grew 
hot  between 'I'ete  Rouge  and  his  accuser,. until  he  was  directed 
to  go  to  bed  and  not  alarm  the  camp  again  if  he  saw  the 
whole  Arapahoe  village  coming. 


258  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

CHAPTER  XXIY. 

THE    CHASE. 

Mightiest  of  all  the  beasts  of  chase,       ' 

That  roam  in  woody  Caledon, 
Crashing  the  forest  in  his  race, 

The  mountain  Bull  comes  thundering  on. 

Cadyow  Castle. 

The  country  before  us  was  now  thronged  with  buffalo,  and 
a  sketch  of  the  manner  of  hunting  them  will  not  be  out  of 
place.  There  are  two  methods  commonly  practiced,  "  run- 
ning" and  "approaching."  Tlie  chase  on  horseback,  which 
goes  b}^  the  name  of  "  running,"  is  the  more  violent  and  dash- 
ing mode  of  the  two.  Indeed,  of  all  American  wild  sports 
this  is  the  wildest.  Once  among  the  buffalo,  the  hunter,  un- 
less long  use  has  made  him  familiar  with  the  situation,  dashes 
forward  in  utter  recklessness  and  self-abandonment.  He 
thinks  of  nothing,  cares  for  nothing  but  the  game  ;  his  mind 
is  stimulated  to  the  highest  pitch,  yet  intensely  concentrated 
on  one  object.  In  the  midst  of  the  flying  herd,  where  the 
uproar  and  the  dust  are  thickest,  it  never  wavers  for  a  mo- 
ment ;  he  drops  the  rein  and  abandons  his  horse  to  his  furious 
career  ;  he  levels  his  gun,  the  report  sounds  faint  amid  the 
thunder  of  the  buffalo  ;  and  when  his  wounded  enemy  leaps 
in  vain  fury  upon  him,  his  heart  thrills  with  a  feeling  like  the 
fierce  delight  of  the  battlefield.  A  practiced  and  skillful 
hunter,  well  mounted,  will  sometimes  kill  five  or  six  cows  in 
a  single  chase,  loading  his  gun  again  and  again  as  his  horse 
rushes  through  the  tumult.  An  exploit  like  this  is  quite  be- 
yond the  capacities  of  a  novice.  In  attacking  a  small  band 
of  buffalo,  or  in  separating  a  single  animal  from  the  herd  and 
assailing  it  apart  from  the  rest,  there  is  less  excitement  and 
less  danger.  With  a  bold  and  well  trained  horse  the  hunter 
may  ride  so  close  to  the  buffalo  that  as  they  gallop  side  by 
side  he  may  reach  over  and  touch  him  with  his  hand  ;  nor  is 
there  much  danger  in  this  as  long  as  the  buffalo's  strength 
and  breath  continue  unabated  ;  but  when  he  becomes  tired 
and  can  no  longer  run  at  ease,  when  his  tongue  lolls  out  and 
foam  flies  from  his  jaws,  then  the  hunter  had  better  keep  at 
a  more  respectful  distance  ;  the  distressed  brute  may  turn 
upon  him  at  any  instant  ;  and  especially  at  the  moment  w^hen 
he  fires  his  gun.  The  wounded  buffalo  springs  at  his  enemy  ; 
the  horse  leaps  violently  aside  ;  and  then  the  hunter  has  need 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  259 

ot  a  tenacious  seat  in  the  saddle,  for  if  he  is  thrown  to  the 
ground  there  is  no  liope  for  him.  When  he  sees  his  attack 
defeated  the  buffalo  resumes  his  flight,  but  if  the  shot  be  well 
directed  he  soon  stops  ;  for  a  few  moments  he  stands  still, 
then  totters  aud  falls  heavily  upon  the  prairie. 

The  chief  difiiculty  in  running  buffalo,  as  it  seems  to  me,  is 
that  of  loading  the  gun  or  pistol  at  full  gallop.  Many  hunters 
for  convenience'  sake  carry  three  or  four  bullets  in  the  mouth  ; 
the  powder  is  poured  down  the  muzzle  of  the  piece,  the  bullet 
dropped  in  after  it,  the  stock  struck  hard  upon  tlie  pommel 
of  tlie  saddle,  and  the  work  is  done.  Tiie  danger  of  this 
method  is  obvious.  Should  the  blow  on  the  pommel  fail  to 
send  the  bullet  home,  or  should  the  latter,  in  the  act  of  aim- 
ing, start  from  its  place  and  roll  toward  the  muzzle,  the  gun 
would  probably  burst  in  discharging.  Many  a  shattered  hand 
and  worse  casualties  besides  have  been  the  result  of  such  an 
accident.  To  obviate  it,  some  hunters  make  use  of  a  ramrod, 
usually  hung  by  a  string  from  the  neck,  but  this  materially 
increases  the  difficulty  of  loading.  The  bows  and  arrows 
which  the  Indians  use  in  running  buffalo  have  many  advantages 
over  firearms,  and  even  white  men  occasionally  emplo}^  them. 

The  danger  of  the  chase  arises  not  so  much  from  the  onset 
of  the  wounded  animal  as  from  the  nature  of  the  ground 
which  the  hunter  must  ride  over.  The  prairie  does  not  alwa\'s 
present  a  smooth,  level,  and  uniform  surface  ;  very  often  it  is 
broken  with  hills  and  hollows,  intersected  by  ravines,  and  in 
the  remoter  parts  studded  by  the  stiff  wild-sage  bushes.  The 
most  formidable  obstructions,  however,  are  the  burrows  of 
wild  animals,  wolves,  badgers,  and  particularly  prairie  dogs, 
with  whose  holes  the  ground  for  a  very  great  extent  is  fre- 
quently honey-combed.  In  the  blindness  of  the  chase  the 
hunter  rushes  over  it  unconscious  of  danger  ;  his  horse,  at  full 
career,  thrusts  his  leg  deep  into  one  of  the  burrows  ;  the 
bone  snaps,  the  rider  is  hurled  forward  to  the  ground  and 
l)robably  killed.  Yet  accidents  in  buffalo  running  happen 
less  frequently  than  one  would  suppose  ;  in  the  recklessness 
of  the  chase,  the  hunter  enjoys  all  the  impunity  of  a  drunken 
man,  and  may  ride  in  safety  over  the  gullies  and  declivities 
where,  should  he  attempt  to  pass  in  his  sober  senses  he  would 
infallibly  break  his  neck. 

Tlie  method  of  "approaching,"  being  practiced  on  foot,  has 
many  advantages  over  that  of  "  rutniing"  ;  in  the  former,  one 
neither  breaks  down  his  horse  nor  endangers  his  own  life  ; 
instead  of  yielding  to  excitement  he  must  be  cool,  collected, 


260  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

and  watchful  ;  he  must  understand  the  buffalo,  observe  the 
features  of  the  country  and  the  course  of  the  wind,  and  be 
well  skilled,  moreover,  in  using  the  rifle.  The  buffalo  are 
strange  animals  ;  sometimes  they  are  so  stupid  and  infatuated 
that  a  man  may  walk  up  to  them  in  full  sight  on  the  open 
prairie,  and  even  shoot  several  of  their  number  before  the 
rest  will  think  it  necessary  to  retreat.  Again  at  another 
moment  tliey  will  be  so  sh}^  and  w^ary,  that  in  order  to  ap- 
proach them  the  utmost  skill,  experience,  and  judgment  are 
necessary.  Kit  Carson,  I  believe,  stands  pre-eminent  in  run- 
ning buffalo  ;  in  approaching,  no  man  living  can  bear  away 
the  yjalm  from  Henry  Cliatillon. 

To  resume  the  story  :  After  Tete  Rouge  had  alarmed  the 
camp,  no  further  disturbance  occurred  during  the  night.  The 
Arapahoes  did  not  attempt  mischief,  or  if  they  did  the  wake- 
fulness of  the  party  deterred  them  from  effecting  their  pur- 
pose. The  next  day  was  one  of  activity  and  excitement,  for 
about  ten  o'clock  the  men  in  advance  shouted  the  gladdening 
cry  of  "  Buffalo,  buffalo!  "  and  in  the  hollow  of  the  prairie  just 
below  us,  a  band  of  bulls  were  grazing.  The  temptation  was 
irresistible,  and  Shaw  and  I  rode  down  upon  them.  We  were 
badly  mounted  on  our  traveling  horses,  but  by  hard  lashing 
we  overtook  them,  and  Shaw  running  alongside  of  a  bull, 
shot  into  him  both  balls  of  his  double-barreled  gun.  Look- 
ing round  as  I  galloped  past,  I  saw  the  bull  in  his  mortal 
fury  rushing  again  and  again  upon  his  antagonist,  whose 
horse  constantly  leaped  aside,  and  avoided  the  onset.  My 
chase  was  more  protracted,  but  at  length  I  ran  close  to  the 
bull  and  killed  him  with  my  pistols.  Cutting  off  the  tails  of 
our  victims  by  way  of  trophy,  we  rejoined  the  party  in  about 
a  quarter  of  an  hour  after  we  left  it.  Again  and  again  that 
morning  rang  out  the  same  welcome  cry  of  "  Buffalo,  buffalo!  " 
Every  few  moments  in  the  broad  meadows  along  the  river, 
we  would  see  bands  of  bulls,  Avho,  raising  their  shaggy  heads, 
would  gaze  in  stupid  amazement  at  the  approaching  horse- 
men, and  then  breaking  into  a  clumsy  gallop,  would  lile  off  in 
a  long  line  across  the  trail  in  front,  toward  the  rising  prairie 
on  the  left.  At  noon,  the  whole  plain  before  us  was  alive 
wath  thousands  of  buffalo — bulls,  cows,  and  calves — all  moving 
rapidly  as  we  drew  near  ;  and  far-off  be3^ond  the  river  the 
swelling  prairie  was  darkened  with  them  to  the  very  horizon. 
The  party  was  in  gaj^er  spirits  than  ever.  We  stopped  for  a 
nooning  near  a  grove  of  trees  by  the  river-side. 

*' Tongues  and  hump  ribs  to-morrow,"  said  Shaw,  looking 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  261 

with  contempt  at  the  venison  steaks  which  Delorier  placed 
before  us.  Our  meal  finished,  we  lay  down  under  a  tempo- 
rary awning  to  sleep.  A  shout  from  llenry  Chatillon  aroused 
us,  and  we  saw  him  standing  on  the  cartwheel  stretching  his 
tall  figure  to  its  full  height  while  he  looked  toward  the 
prairie  beyond  the  river.  Following  the  direction  of  his  eyes 
we  could  clearly  distinguish  a  large  dark  object,  like  the 
black  shadow  of  a  cloud,  passing  rapidly  over  swell  after 
swell  of  the  distant  plain  ;  behind  it  followed  another  of 
similar  appearance  though  smaller.  Its  motion  was  more 
rapid,  and  it  drew  closer  and  closer  to  the  first.  It  was  the 
hunters  of  the  Arapahoe  camp  pursuing  a  band  of  buffalo. 
Shaw  and  I  hastily  sought  and  saddled  our  best  horses,  and 
went  plunging  through  sand  and  water  to  the  farther  bank. 
We  were  too  late.  The  hunters  had  alread}^  mingled  with 
the  herd,  and  the  work  of  slaughter  was  nearly  over.  When 
we  reached  the  ground  we  found  it  strewn  far  and  near  with 
numberless  black  carcasses,  while  the  remnants  of  the  herd, 
scattered  in  all  directions,  were  flying  away  in  terror,  and  the 
Indians  still  rushing  in  pursuit.  Many  of  the  hunters,  how- 
ever, remained  upon  the  spot,  and  among  the  rest  was  our 
yesterday's  acquaintance,  the  chief  of  the  village.  He  had 
alighted  by  the  side  of  a  cow,  into  M'hich  he  had  shot  five  or 
six  arrows,  and  his  squaw,  who  had  followed  him  on  horse- 
back to  the  hunt,  was  giving  him  a  draught  of  water  out  of 
a  canteen,  purchased  or  plundered  from  some  volunteer  sol- 
dier. Recrossing  the  river  we  overtook  the  party,  who  were 
already  on  their  way. 

We  had  scarcely  gone  a  mile  when  an  imposing  spectacle 
presented  itself.  From  the  river  bank  on  the  right,  away 
over  the  swelling  prairie  on  the  left,  and  in  front  as  far  as  we 
could  see,  extended  one  vast  host  of  buffalo.  The  outskirts 
of  the  herd  were  Avithin  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  In  many  parts 
they  were  crowded  so  densely  together  that  in  the  distance 
their  rounded  backs  presented  a  surface  of  uniform  blackness  ; 
but  elsewhere  tliey  were  more  scattered,  and  from  amid  the 
multitude  rose  little  columns  of  dust  where  the  buffalo  were 
rolling  on  the  ground.  Here  and  there  a  great  confusion  was 
perceptible,  where  a  battle  was  going  forward  among  the 
bulls.  We  could  distinctly  see  tliem  rushing  against  each  other, 
and  hear  the  clattering  of  their  horns  and  their  hoarse  bellow- 
ing. Shaw  was  riding  at  some  distance  in  advance,  with 
Henry  Chatillon  ;  I  saw  him  stop  and  draw  the  leather  covering 
from  his  gun.     Indeed,  with  such  a  sight  before  us,  but  one 


262  THE  GALIFOUNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

thing  could  be  thought  of.  That  morning  I  had  used  pistols 
in  the  chase.  I  had  now  a  mind  to  try  the  virtue  of  a  gun. 
Delorier  had  one,  and  I  rode  up  to  the  side  of  the  cart  ;  there 
he  sat  under  the  white  covering,  biting  his  pipe  between  his 
teeth  and  grinning  with  excitement. 

"  Lend  me  your  gun,  Delorier,"  said  I. 

"  Oui,  monsieur,  oui^''  said  Delorier,  tugging  with  might 
and  main  to  stop  the  mule,  which  seemed  obstinately  bent  on 
going  forward.  Then  everything  but  his  moccasins  disap- 
peared as  he  crawled  into  the  cart  and  pulled  at  the  gun  to 
extricate  it. 

"Is  it  loaded  ?"  I  asked. 

"0w^,  hien  charge ;  you'll  kill,  mon.  bourgeois  ;  yes,  you'll 
kill — (^est  un  honfusiiy 

I  handed  him  my  rifle  and  rode  forward  to  Shaw. 

"  Are  you  ready  ?"  he  asked. 

"  Come  on,"  said  I. 

"Keep  down  that  hollow,"  said  Henry,  "and  then  they 
won't  see  you  till  you  get  close  to  tlieni." 

The  hollow  was  a  kind  of  ravine  very  wide  and  shallow  ;  it 
ran  obliquely  toward  the  buffalo,  and  we  rode  at  a  canter  along 
the  bottom  until  it  became  too  shallow,  when  we  bent  close 
to  our  horses'  necks,  and  then  finding  that  it  could  no  longer 
conceal  us,  came  out  of  it  and  rode  directly  toward  the  herd. 
It  was  within  gunshot ;  before  its  outskirts,  numerous  grizzly 
old  bulls  were  scattered,  holding  guard  over  their  females. 
They  glared  at  us  in  anger  and  astonishment,  walked  toward 
us  a  few  yards,  and  then  turning  slowly  round  retreated  at  a 
trot  which  afterward  broke  into  a  clumsy  gallop.  In  an 
instant  the  main  body  caught  the  alarm.  The  buffalo  began 
to  crowd  away  from  the  point  toward  which  we  were  ap- 
proaching, and  a  gap  was  opened  in  the  side  of  the  herd. 
We  entered  it,  still  restraining  our  excited  horses.  Every 
instant  the  tumult  was  thickening.  The  buffalo,  pressing 
together  in  large  bodies,  crowded  away  from  us  on  every 
hand.  In  front  and  on  either  side  we  could  see  dark  columns 
and  masses,  half  hidden  by  clouds  of  dust,  rushing  along  in 
terror  and  confusion,  and  hear  the  tramp  and  clattering  of  ten 
thousand  hoofs.  That  countless  multitude  of  powerful  brutes, 
ignorant  of  their  own  strength,  were  flying  in  a  panic  from 
the  approach  of  two  feeble  horsemen.  To  remain  quiet  longer 
was  impossible. 

"  Take  that  band  on  the  left,"  said  Shaw  ;  "  I'll  take  these 
in  front." 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  263 

He  sprang  off,  and  I  saw  no  more  of  liira.  A  heavy  Indian 
whip  was  fastened  by  a  band  to  my  wrist ;  I  swung  it  into 
the  air  and  laslied  my  hoise's  flank  with  all  the  strength  of 
my  arm.  Away  she  darted,  stretching  close  to  tlie  ground. 
I  could  see  notliing  but  a  cloud  of  dust  before  me,  but  I  knew 
that  it  concealed  a  band  of  many  hundreds  of  buffalo.  In  a 
moment  I  was  in  the  midst  of  tlie  cloud,  half  suffocated  by 
the  dust  and  stunned  by  the  trampling  of  the  flying  herd  ; 
but  I  was  drunk  with  the  chase  and  cared  for  nothing  but  the 
buffalo.  Very  soon  a  long  dark  mass  became  visible,  looming 
through  the  dust ;  tlien  I  could  distinguish  each  bulky  car- 
cass, the  hoofs  flying  out  beneath,  the  short  tails  held  rigidly 
erect.  In  a  moment  I  was  so  close  that  I  could  have  touched 
them  with  my  gun.  Suddenly,  to  my  utter  amazement,  the 
hoofs  were  jerked  upward,  the  tails  flourished  in  the  air,  and 
amid  a  cloud  of  dust  the  buffalo  seemed  to  sink  into  the  earth 
before  me.  One  vivid  impression  of  that  instant  remains 
upon  my  mind.  I  remember  looking  down  upon  the  backs  of 
several  buffalo  dimly  visible  through  the  dust.  We  had  run 
unawares  upon  a  ravine.  At  that  moment  I  was  not  the  most 
accurate  judge  of  depth  and  width,  but  when  I  passed  it  on 
my  return,  I  found  it  about  twelve  feet  deep  and  not  quite 
twice  as  wide  at  the  bottom.  It  was  impossible  to  stop  ;  I 
would  have  done  so  gladly  if  I  could  ;  so,  half  sliding,  half 
plunging,  down  went  the  little  mare.  I  believe  she  came 
down  on  her  knees  in  the  loose  sand  at  the  bottom  ;  I  was 
pitched  forward  violently  against  her  neck  and  nearly  thrown 
over  her  head  among  the  buffalo,  who  amid  dust  and  con- 
fusion came  tumbling  in  all  around.  Tlie  mare  was  on  her 
feet  in  an  instant  and  scrambling  like  a  cat  up  the  opposite 
side.  I  thought  for  a  moment  that  she  would  have  fallen 
back  and  crushed  me,  but  with  a  violent  effort  she  clambered 
out  and  gained  the  hard  prairie  above.  Glancing  back  I  saw 
the  huge  head  of  a  bull  clinging  as  it  were  by  the  forefeet  at 
the  edge  of  the  dusty  gulf.  At  length  I  was  fairly  among 
the  buffalo.  They  were  less  densely  crowded  than  before, 
and  I  could  see  nothing  but  bulls,  who  always  run  at  the  rear 
of  the  herd.  As  I  passed  amid  them  they  would  lower  their 
heads,  and  turning  as  they  ran,  attempt  to  gore  my  horse  ; 
but  as  they  were  already  at  full  speed  there  was  no  force  in 
tlieir  onset,  and  as  Pauline  ran  faster  than  thev,  they  were 
always  thrown  behind  her  in  the  effort.  I  soon  began  to  dis- 
tinguish cows  amid  the  throng.  One  just  in  front  of  me 
seemed  to  my  liking,  and  I  pushed  close  to  her  side.     Drop- 


264  THE  CALlFOUmA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

ping  the  reins  I  fired,  holding  the  muzzle  of  the  gun  within  a 
foot  of  her  shoulder.  Quick  as  lightning  she  sprang  at 
Pauline  ;  the  little  mare  dodged  the  attack,  and  I  lost  sight 
of  the  wounded  animal  amid  the  tumultuous  crowd.  Immedi- 
ately after  I  selected  another,  and  urging  forward  Pauline, 
sliot  into  her  both  pistols  in  succession.  For  a  while  T  kept 
lier  in  view,  but  in  attempting  to  load  my  gun,  lost  sight  of 
her  also  in  the  confusion.  Believing  her  to  be  mortally 
wounded  and  unable  to  keep  up  with  the  herd,  I  checked  my 
horse.  The  crowd  rushed  onward.  The  dust  and  tumult 
passed  away,  and  on  the  prairie,  far  behind  the  rest,  I  sav\^  a 
solitary  buffalo  galloping  heavily.  In  a  moment  I  and  my 
victim  were  running  side  by  side.  My  firearms  were  all 
empty,  and  I  had  in  my  pouch  notliing  but  rifle  bullets,  too 
large  for  the  j^istols  and  too  small  for  the  gun.  I  loaded  the 
latter,  however,  but  as  often  as  I  leveled  it  to  fire,  the  little 
bullets  would  roll  out  of  the  muzzle  and  the  gun  returned  ordy 
a  faint  report  like  a  squib,  as  the  powder  harmlessly  exploded. 
I  galloped  in  front  of  the  buffalo  and  attempted  to  turn  her 
back  ;  but  her  eyes  glared,  her  mane  bristled,  and  lowering 
her  head,  she  rushed  at  me  with  astonishing  fierceness  and 
activity.  Again  and  again  I  rode  before  her,  and  again  and 
again  she  repeated  her  furious  charge.  But  little  Pauline  was 
in  her  element.  She  dodged  her  eneni}''  at  every  rush,  until 
at  length  the  buffalo  stood  still,  exhausted  with  her  own 
efforts  ;  she  panted,  and  her  tongue  hung  lolling  from  her 
jaws. 

Riding  to  a  little  distance  I  alighted,  thinking  to  gather  a 
handful  of  dry  grass  to  serve  the  purpose  of  wadding,  and 
load  the  gun  at  my  leisure.  No  sooner  were  my  feet  on  the 
ground  than  the  buffalo  came  bounding  in  such  a  rage  toward 
me  that  I  jumped  back  again  into  the  saddle  with  all  possible 
dispatch.  After  waiting  a  few  minutes  more,  I  made  an 
attempt  to  ride  up  and  stabher  with  m}^  knife  ;  but  the  experi- 
ment proved  such  as  no  wise  man  would  repeat.  At  length, 
bethinking  me  of  the  fringes  at  the  seams  of  my  buckskin 
pantaloons,  I  jerked  off  a  few  of  them,  and  reloading  the  gun, 
forced  them  down  the  barrel  to  keep  the  bullet  in  its  place  ; 
then  approaching,  I  shot  the  wounded  buffalo  through  the 
heart.  Sinking  to  her  knees,  she  rolled  over  lifeless  on  the 
prairie.  To  nij  astonishment,  I  found  that  instend  of  a  fat 
cow  I  had  been  slaughtering  a  stout  yearling  bull.  No  longer 
wondering  at  thefierceness  hehad  shown,  I  opened  his  throat, 
and  cutting  out  his  tongue,  tied  it  at  the  back  of  my  saddle. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  266 

My  mistake  was  one  which  a  more  experienced  eye  tliaii  mine 
mii>;lit  easily  make  in  the  dust  and  confusion  of  such  a  chase. 

Then  for  the  first  time  I  had  leisure  to  look  at  the  scene 
around  ine.  The  prairie  in  front  was  darkened  WKth  the 
retreatin<^  multitude,  and  on  the  other  hand  the  buffalo  came 
filing  up  in  endless  unbroken  columns  from  the  low  plains 
upon  the  river.  The  Arkansas  was  three  or  four  miles  distant. 
I  turned  and  moved  slowly  toward  it.  A  long  time  passed 
before,  far  down  in  the  distance,  I  distinguished  the  white 
covering  of  the  cart  a!id  the  little  black  specks  of  horsemen 
before  and  behind  it.  Drawing  near,  I  recognized  Shaw's 
elegant  tunic,  the  red  flannel  shirt  conspicuous  far  off.  I 
overtook  the  party,  and  asked  him  what  success  he  had  met 
with.  He  had  assailed  a  fat  cow,  shot  her  with  two  bullets, 
and  mortally  wounded  her.  But  neither  of  us  were  prepared 
for  the  chase  that  afternoon,  and  Shaw,  like  myself,  had  no 
spare  bullets  in  his  pouch  ;  so  he  abandoned  the  disabled 
animal  to  Henry  Chatillon,  who  followed,  dispatched  her  with 
his  rifle,  and  loade<l  his  horse  with  her  meat. 

We  encamped  close  to  the  river.  The  night  was  dark,  and 
as  we  lay  down  we  could  hear  mingled  with  the  bowlings  of 
wolves  the  hoarse  bellowing  of  the  buffalo,  like  the  ocean 
beating  upon  a  distant  coast. 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

THE    BUFFALO    CAMP. 

In  pastures  measureless  as  air, 
The  bisou  is  my  noble  game. 

Bryant. 

No  one  in  the  camp  was  more  active  than  Jim  Gurney,  and 
on  one  half  so  lazy  as  Ellis.  Between  these  two  there  was  a 
great  antipathy.  Ellis  never  stirred  in  the  morning  until  he 
was  compelled  to,  but  Jim  was  always  on  his  feet  before  day- 
break; and  this  morning  as  usual  the  sound  of  his  voice  awak- 
ened the  party. 

"Get  up,  you  booby!  up  with  j^ou  now,  you're  fit  for  noth- 
ing but  eating  and  sleeping.  Stop  your  grumbling  and  come 
out  of  that  buffalo  robe  or  I'll  pull  it  off  for  you." 

Jim's  words  were  interspersed  with  numerous  expletives, 
which  gave  them  great  additional  effect.  Ellis  drawled  out 
something  in  a  nasal  tone  from  among  the  folds  of  his  buffalo 
robe;  then  slowly  disengaged  himself,  rose  into  sitting  posture, 
stretched  his  long  arms,  yawned  hideously,  and  finally,  raising 


266  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

his  tall  person  erect,  stood  staring  round  him  to  all  the  four 
quarters  of  the  horizon.  Delorier's  fire  was  soon  blazing,  and 
the  horses  and  mules,  loosened  from  their  pickets,,  were  feed- 
ing in  the  neighboring  meadow.  When  w'e  sat  down  to 
breakfast  the  prairie  was  still  in  the  dusky  light  of  morning; 
and  as  the  sun  rose  we  were  mounted  and  on  our  way  again. 

"A  white  buffalo!"  exclaimed  Munroe. 

"I'll  have  that  fellow,"  said  Shaw,  "if  I  run  my  horse  to 
death  after  him." 

He  threw  the  cover  of  his  gun  to  Delorier  and  galloped  out 
upon  the  prairie. 

"  Stop,  Mr.  Shaw,  stop !"  called  out  Henry  Chatillon,  "you'll 
run  down  your  horse  for  nothing;  it's  only  a  white  ox." 

But  Shaw  was  already  out  of  hearing  The  ox,  who  had  no 
doubt  strayed  away  from  some  of  the  government  wagon 
trains,  was  standing  beneath  some  low  hills  which  bounded 
the  plain  in  the  distance.  Not  far  from  him  a  band  of  veri- 
table buffalo  bulls  were  grazing;  and  startled  at  Shaw's  ap- 
proach, they  all  broke  into  a  run,  and  went  scrambling  up  the 
hillsides  to  gain  the  high  prairie  above.  One  of  them  in 
his  haste  and  terror  involved  himself  in  a  fatal  catastrophe. 
Along  the  foot  of  the  hills  was  a  narrow  strip  of  deep  marshy 
soil,  into  which  the  bull  plunged  and  hopelessly  entangled  him- 
self. We  all  rode  up  to  the  spot.  The  huge  carcass  was  half 
sunk  in  the  mud,  which  flowed  to  his  very  chin,  and  his  shaggy 
mane  was  outspread  upon  the  surface  As  we  came  near  the 
bull  began  to  struggle  with  convulsive  strength;  he  writhed 
to  and  fro,  and  in  the  energy  of  his  fright  and  desperation 
would  lift  himself  for  a  moment  half  out  of  the  slough,  while 
the  reluctant  mire  returned  a  sucking  sound  as  he  strained  to 
drag  his  limbs  from  its  tenacious  depths.  We  stimulated  his 
exertions  by  getting  behind  him  and  twisting  his  tail;  noth- 
ing would  do.  There  was  clearly  no  hope  for  him.  After 
every  effort  his  heaving  sides  were  more  deeply  imbedded  and 
the  mire  almost  overflowed  his  nostrils;  he  lay  still  at  length, 
and  looking  round  at  us  with  a  furious  eye,  seemed  to  resign 
himself  to  his  fate.  Ellis  slowly  dismounted,  and  deliberately 
leveling  his  boasted  yager,  shot  the  old  bull  through  the  heart; 
then  he  lazily  climbed  back  again  to  his  seat,  pluming  himself 
no  doubt  on  having  actually  killed  a  buffalo.  That  day  the 
invincible  yager  drew  blood  for  the  first  and  last  time  during 
the  whole  journey. 

The  morning  was  a  bright  and  gay  one,  and  the  air  so  clear 
that  on  the  farthest  horizon  the  outline  of  the  pale  blue  prairie 


THJU  CALIFOIiNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  267 

was  sharply  drawn  against  the  sky.  Shaw  felt  in  the  mood  for 
hunting ;  he  rode  in  advance  of  the  party,  and  before  long  we 
saw  a  tile  of  bulls  galloping  at  full  speed  upon  a  vast  green 
swell  of  the  prairie  at  some  distance  in  front.  Shaw  came 
scouring  along  behind  them,  arrayed  in  his  red  shirt,  which 
looked  very  well  in  the  distance;  he  gained  fast  on  the  fugi- 
tives, and  as  the  foremost  bull  was  disappearing  behind  the 
summit  of  the  swell,  we  saw  him  in  the  act  of  assailing  the 
hindmost;  a  smoke  sprang  from  the  muzzle  of  his  gun,  and 
Hoated  away  before  the  wind  like  a  little  white  cloud;  the  bull 
turned  upon  him,  and  just  then  the  rising  ground  concealed 
them  both  from  view. 

We  were  moving  forward  until  about  noon,  when  wo 
stopped  by  the  side  of  the  Arkansas.  At  that  moment  Shaw 
appeared  riding  slowly  down  the  side  of  a  distant  hill;  his 
horse  was  tired  and  jaded,  and  when  he  threw  his  saddle  upon 
the  ground,  1  observed  that  the  tails  of  two  bulls  were  dang- 
ling behind  it.  No  sooner  were  the  horses  turned  loose  to  feed 
than  Henry,  asking  Munroe  to  go  with  him,  took  his  rifle  and 
walked  quietly  awa3^  Shaw,  Tete  Rouge,  and  I  sat  down  by 
the  side  of  the  cart  to  discuss  the  dinner  which  Delorier  placed 
before  us;  we  had  scarcely  finished  when  we  saw  Munroe 
walking  toward  us  along  the  river  bank.  Henry,  he  said, 
had  killed  four  fat  cows,  and  had  sent  him  back  for  horses  to 
bring  in  the  meat.  Shaw  took  a  horse  for  himself  and  another 
for  Henry,  and  he  and  Munroe  left  the  camp  together.  After 
a  short  absence  all  three  of  them  came  back,  their  horses 
loaded  with  the  choicest  parts  of  the  meat;  we  kept  two  of 
the  cows  for  ourselves  and  gave  the  others  to  Munroe  and  his 
companions.  Delorier  seated  himself  on  the  grass  before  the 
pile  of  meat,  and  worked  industriously  for  some  time  to  cut 
it  into  thin  broad  sheets  for  drying.  This  is  no  easy  matter, 
but  Delorier  had  all  the  skill  of  an  Indian  squaw.  Long  before 
night  cords  of  raw  hide  were  stretched  around  the  camp,  and 
the  meat  was  hung  upon  them  to  dry  in  the  sunshine  and  pure 
air  of  the  prairie.  Our  California  companions  were  less  suc- 
cessful at  the  work;  but  they  accomplished  it  after  their  own 
fashion,  and  their  side  of  the  camp  was  soon  garnished  in  the 
same  manner  as  our  own. 

We  meant  to  remain  at  this  place  long  enough  to  prepare 
provisions  for  our  journey  to  the  frontier,  which  as  we  sup- 
posed might  occupy  about  a  month.  Had  the  distance  been 
twice  as  great  and  the  party  ten  times  as  large,  the  unerring 
rifle  of  Henry  Chatillon  would  have  supplied  meat  enough  for 


268  THE  GALIFOBNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

the  whole  within  two  days;  we  were  obliged  to  remain,  how- 
ever, until  it  should  be  dry  enough  for  transportation;  so  we 
erected  our  tent  and  made  the  other  arrangements  for  a  per- 
manent camp.  The  California  men,  who  had  no  such  shelter, 
contented  themselves  with  arranging  their  packs  on  the  grass 
around  their  fire.  In  the  meantime  we  had  nothing  to  do  but 
amuse  ourselves.  Our  tent  was  within  a  rod  of  the  river,  if 
the  broad  sand-beds,  with  a  scanty  stream  of  water  coursing 
here  and  there  along  their  surface,  deserve  to  be  dignified  with 
the  name  of  river.  The  vast  flat  plains  on  either  side  were 
almost  on  a  level  with  the  sand-beds,  and  they  were  bounded 
in  the. distance  by  low,  monotonous  hills,  parallel  to  the  course 
of  the  Arkansas.  All  was  one  expanse  of  grass;  there  was  no 
wood  in  view,  except  some  trees  and  stunted  bushes  upon  two 
islands  which  rose  from  amid  the  wet  sands  of  the  river.  Yet 
far  from  being  dull  and  tame  this  boundless  scene  was  often 
a  wild  and  animated  one;  for  twice  a  day,  at  sunrise  and  at 
noon,  the  buffalo  came  issuing  from  the  hills,  slowly  advanc- 
ing in  their  grave  processions  to  drink  at  the  river.  AJl  our 
amusements  were  to  be  at  their  expense.  Except  an  elephant, 
I  have  seen  no  animal  that  can  surpass  a  buifalo  bull  in  size 
and  strength,  and  the  world  may  be  searched  in  vain  to  find 
anything  of  a  more  ugly  and  ferocious  aspect.  At  first  sight 
of  him  every  feeling  of  sympathy'"  vanishes;  no  man  who  has 
not  experienced  it  can  understand  with  what  keen  relish  one 
inflicts  his  death  wound,  with  what  profound  contentment  of 
mind  he  beholds  him  fall.  The  cows  are  much  smaller  and  of 
a  gentler  appearance,  as  becomes  their  sex.  While  in  this 
camp  we  forebore  to  attack  them,  leaving  to  Henry  Chatillon, 
who  could  better  judge  their  fatness  and  good  quality,  the 
task  of  killing  such  as  we  wanted  for  use;  but  against  the 
bulls  we  waged  an  unrelenting  war.  Thousands  of  them  might 
be  slaughtered  without  causing  any  detriment  to  the  species, 
for  their  numbers  greatly  exceed  those  of  the  cows;  it  is  the 
hides  of  the  latter  alone  which  are  used  for  the  purpose  of 
commerce  and  for  making  the  lodges  of  the  Indians;  and  the 
destruction  among  them  is  therefore  altogether  dispropor- 
tioned. 

Our  horses  were  tired,  and  we  now  usually  hunted  on  foot. 
The  wide,  flat  sand-beds  of  the  Arkansas,  as  the  reader  will 
remember,  lay  close  by  the  side  of  our  camp.  While  we  were 
lying  on  the  grass  after  dinner,  smoking,  conversing,  or  laugh- 
ing at  Tete  Rouge,  one  of  us  would  look  up  and  observe,  far 
out  on  the  plains  beyond   the   river,   certain  black   objects 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  269 

slowly  approaching.  He  would  inhale  a  parting  whiff  from 
the  pipe,  then  rising  lazily,  take  his  rifie,  which  leaned  against 
the  cart,  throw  over  his  shoulder  the  strap  of  his  pouch  and 
powder-horn,  and  with  his  moccasins  in  his  hand  walk  quietly 
across  the  sand  toward  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  This 
was  very  easy;  for  though  the  sands  were  about  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  wide,  the  water  was  nowhere  more  than  two  feet  deep. 
The  farther  bank  was  about  four  or  five  feet  high,  and  quite 
perpendicular,  being  cut  away  by  the  water  in  spring.  Tall 
grass  grew  along  its  edge.  Putting  it  aside  with  his  hand, 
and  cautiously  looking  through  it,  the  hunter  can  discern  the 
liuge  shaggy  back  of  the  buffalo  slowly  swaying  to  and  fro,  as 
with  his  clumsy  swinging  gait  he  advances  toward  the  water. 
The  buffalo  have  regular  paths  by  which  they  come  dowm  to 
drink.  Seeing  at  a  glance  along  which  of  these  his  intended 
victim  is  moving,  the  hunter  crouches  under  the  bank  within 
fifteen  or  twenty  yards,  it  may  be,  of  the  point  where  the  path 
enters  the  river.  Here  he  sits  down  quietly  on  the  sand. 
Listening  intently,  he  hears  the  heavy  monotonous  tread  of 
the  approaching  bull.  The  moment  after  he  sees  a  motion 
among  the  long  weeds  and  grass  just  at  the  spot  where  the 
path  is  channeled  through  the  bank.  An  enormous  black 
head  is  thrust  out,  the  horns  just  visible  amid  the  mass  of 
tangled  mane.  Half  sliding,  half  plunging,  down  comes  the 
buffalo  upon  the  river-bed  below.  He  steps  out  in  full  sight 
upon  the  sands.  Just  before  him  a  runnel  of  water  is  gliding, 
and  he  bends  his  head  to  drink.  You  may  hear  the  water  as 
it  gurgles  down  his  capacious  throat.  He  raises  his  head, 
and  the  drops  trickle  from  his  wet  beard.  He  stands  with  an 
air  of  stupid  abstraction,  unconscious  of  the  lurking  danger. 
Noiselessly  the  hunter  cocks  his  rifle.  As  he  sits  upon  the  sand, 
his  knee  is  raised,  and  his  elbow  rests  upon  it,  that  he  may 
level  his  heavy  weapon  with  a  steadier  aim.  The  stock  is  at 
his  shoulder;  his  eye  ranges  along  the  barrel.  Still  he  is  in 
no  haste  to  fire.  The  bull,  with  slow  deliberation,  begins  his 
march  over  the  sands  to  the  other  side.  He  advances  his 
fore-leg,  and  exposes  to  view  a  small  spot,  denuded  of  hair, 
just  behind  the  point  of  his  shoulder;  upon  this  the  hunter 
brings  the  sight  of  his  rifle  to  bear;  lightly  and  delicately  his 
finger  presses  upon  the  hair-trigger.  Quick  as  thought  the 
spiteful  crack  of  the  rifle  responds  to  his  slight  touch,  and 
instantly  in  the  middle  of  the  bare  spot  apjK^irs  a  small  red 
dot.  The  buffalo  shivers;  death  has  overtaken  him,  he  can- 
not tell  from  w^hence;  still  he  does  not  fall,  but  walks  heavily 


270  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

forward,  as  if  nothing  had  happened^  Yet  before  he  has 
advanced  far  out  upon  the  sand,  you  see  him  stop;  he  totters; 
his  knees  bend  under  him,  and  his  head  sinks  forward  to  the 
ground.  Then  his  whole  vast  bulk  sways  to  one  side ;  he  rolls 
over  on  the  sand,  and  dies  with  a  scarcely  perceptible  struggle. 

Waylaying  the  buffalo  in  this  manner,  and  shooting  them 
as  they  come  to  water,  is  the  easiest  and  laziest  method  of 
hunting  them.  They  may  also  be  approached  by  crawling  up 
ravines,  or  behind  hills,  or  even  over  the  open  prairie.  This 
is  often  surprisingly  easy;  but  at  other  times  it  requires  the 
utmost  skill  of  the  most  experienced  hunter.  Henry  Chatillon 
was  a  man  of  extraordinary  strength  and  hardihood;  but  I 
have  seen  him  return  to  camp  quite  exhausted  with  his  efforts, 
his  limbs  scratched  and  wounded,  and  his  buckskin  dress 
stuck  full  of  the  thorns  of  the  prickly-pear  among  which  he 
had  been  crawling.  Sometimes  he  would  lay  flat  upon  his 
face,  and  drag  himself  along  in  this  position  for  many  rods 
together. 

On  the  second  day  of  our  stay  at  this  place,  Henry  went  out 
for  an  afternoon  hunt.  Shaw  and  I  remained  in  camp  until,  ob- 
serving some  bulls  approaching  the  water  upon  the  other  side  of 
the  river,  we  crossed  over  to  attack  them.  They  were  so  near, 
however,  that  before  we  could  get  under  cover  of  the  bank  our 
appearance  as  we  walked  over  the  sands  alarmed  them.  Turn- 
ing round  before  coming  within  gunshot,  the}'  began  to  move 
off  to  the  right  in  a  direction  parallel  to  the  river.  I  climbed 
up  the  bank  and  ran  after  them.  They  were  walking  swiftly, 
and  before  I  could  come  wnthin  gunshot  distance  they  slowly 
wheeled  about  and  faced  toward  me.  Before  they  had  turned 
far  enough  to  see  me  I  had  fallen  flat  on  my  face.  For  a 
moment  they  stood  and  stared  at  the  strange  object  upon  the 
grass;  then  turning  away,  again  they  walked  on  as  before; 
and  I,  rising  immediately,  ran  once  more  in  pursuit.  Again 
they  wheeled  about,  and  again  I  fell  prostrate.  Repeating 
this  three  or  four  times,  I  came  at  length  within  a  hundred 
yards  of  the  fugitives,  and  as  I  saw  them  turning  again  I  sat 
down  and  leveled  my  rifle.  The  one  in  the  center  was  the 
largest  I  had  ever  seen.  I  shot  him  behind  the  shoulder.  His 
two  companions  ran  off.  He  attempted  to  follow,  but  soon 
came  to  a  stand,  and  at  length  lay  down  as  quietly  as  an  ox 
chewing  the  cud.  Cautiously  approaching  him,  I  saw  by  his 
dull  and  jellylike  eye  that  he  was  dead. 

When  1  began  the  chase,  the  prairie  was  almost  tenantless; 
but  a  great  multitude  of  buffalo  had  suddenly  thronged  upon 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  271 

it,  and  looking  up,  I  saw  within  fifty  rods  a  heavy,  dark  col- 
umn stretching  to  the  right  and  left  as  far  as  I  could  see. 
I  walked  toward  them.  My  approach  did  not  alarm  them  in 
the  least.  The  column  itself  consisted  entirely  of  cows  and 
calves,  but  a  great  many  old  bulls  were  ranging  about  the 
prairie  on  its  tlank,  and  as  1  drew  near  they  faced  toward  me 
with  such  a  shaggy  and  ferocious  look  that  I  thought  it  best 
to  proceed  no  farther.  Indeed  I  was  already  within  close 
rifle-shot  of  the  column,  and  I  sat  down  on  the  ground  to 
watch  their  movements.  Sometimes  the  whole  would  stand 
still,  their  heads  all  facing  one  way;  then  they  would  trot 
forward,  as  if  by  a  common  impulse,  their  hoofs  and  horns 
clattering  together  as  they  moved.  I  soon  began  to  hear  at  a 
distance  on  the  left  the  sharp  reports  of  a  rifle,  again  and  again 
repeated;  and  not  long  after,  dull  and  heavy  sounds  succeeded, 
which  I  recognized  as  the  familiar  voice  of  Shaw's  double- 
barreled  gun.  When  Henry's  rifle  was  at  work  there  was 
always  meat  to  be  brought  in.  I  went  back  across  the  river 
for  a  horse,  and  returning,  reached  the  spot  where  the 
hunters  were  standing.  The  buffalo  were  visible  on  the  dis- 
tant prairie.  The  living  had  retreated  from  the  ground,  but 
ten  or  twelve  carcasses  were  scattered  in  various  directions. 
Henry,  knife  in  hand,  was  stooping  over  a  dead  cow,  cutting 
away  the  best  and  fattest  of  the  meat. 

When  Shaw  left  me  he  had  walked  down  for  some  distance 
under  the  river  bank  to  find  another  bull.  At  length  he  saw 
the  plains  covered  with  the  host  of  buffalo,  and  soon  after 
heard  the  crack  of  Henry's  rifle.  Ascending  the  bank,  he 
crawled  through  the  grass,  which  for  a  rod  or  two  from  the 
river  was  very  high  and  rank.  He  had  not  crawled  far  before 
to  his  astonishment  he  saw  Henry  standing  erect  upon  the 
prairie,  almost  surrounded  by  the  buffalo.  Henry  was  in  his 
appropriate  element.  Nelson,  on  the  deck  of  the  Victory^ 
hardly  felt  a  prouder  sense  of  mastery  than  he.  Quite  uncon- 
scious that  anyone  was  looking  at  him,  he  stood  at  the  full 
height  of  his  tall,  strong  figure,  one  hand  resting  upon  his 
side,  and  the  other  arm  leaning  carelessly  on  the  muzzle  of  his 
rifle.  His  eyes  was  ranging  over  the  singular  assemblage 
around  him.  Now  an<l  then  he  would  select  such  a  cow  as 
suited  him,  level  his  rifle,  and  shoot  her  dead;  then  quietly 
reloading,  he  would  resume  his  former  j)osition.  The  buffalo 
seemed  no  more  to  regard  his  presence  than  if  he  were  one  of 
themselves;  the  bulls  were  bellowing  and  butting  at  each 
other,  or  else  rolling  about  in  the  dust.     A  group  of  buffalo 


272  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

would  gather  about  the  carcass  of  a  dead  cow,  snuffing  at  her 
wounds ;  and  sometimes  they  -would  come  behind  those  that  had 
not  yet  fallen,  and  endeavor  to  push  them  from  the  spot.  Now 
and  then  some  old  bull  would  face  toward  Henry  with  an  air  of 
stupid  amazement,  but  none  seemed  inclined  to  attack  or  fly 
from  him.  For  some  time  Shaw  lay  among  the  grass,  looking 
in  surprise  at  this  extraordinary  sight;  at  length  he  crawled 
cautiously  forward,  and  spoke  in  a  low  voice  to  Henry,  who 
told  him  to  rise  and  come  on.  Still  the  buffalo  showed  no  sign 
of  fear;  they  remained  gathered  about  their  dead  companions. 
Henry  had  already  killed  as  many  cows  as  we  wanted  for  use, 
and  Shaw,  kneeling  behind  one  of  the  carcasses,  shot  five 
bulls  before  the  rest  thought  it  necessary  to  disperse. 

The  frequent  stupidity  and  infatuation  of  the  buffalo  seems 
the  more  remarkable  from  the  contrast  it  offers  to  their  wild- 
ness  and  wariness  at  other  times.  Henrj''  knew  all  their  pecu- 
liarities; he  had  studied  them  as  a  scholar  studies  his  books, 
and  he  derived  quite  as  much  pleasure  from  the  occupation. 
The  buffalo  were  a  kind  of  companions  to  him,  and,  as  he  said, 
he  never  felt  alone  w^hen  they  were  about  him.  He  took  great 
pride  in  his  skill  in  hunting.  Henry  was  one  of  the  most 
modest  of  men ;  yet,  in  the  simplicity  and  frankness  of  his 
character,  it  was  quite  clear  that  he  looked  upon  his  pre-emi- 
nence in  this  respect  as  a  thing  too  palpable  and  well-estab- 
lished ever  to  be  disputed.  But  whatever  may  have  been  his 
estimate  of  his  own  skill,  it  was  rather  below  than  above  that 
which  others  placed  upon  it.  The  only  time  that  I  ever  saw  a 
shade  of  scorn  darken  his  face  was  when  two  volunteer  soldiers, 
who  had  just  killed  a  buffalo  for  the  first  time,  undertook  to 
instruct  him  as  to  the  best  method  of  "approaching."  To 
borrow  an  illustration  from  an  opposite  side  of  life,  an  Eton 
boy  might  as  w^ell  have  sought  to  enlighten  Person  on  the 
formation  of  a  Greek  verb,  or  a  Fleet  Street  shopkeeper  to  in- 
struct Chesterfield  concerning  a  point  of  etiquette.  Henry 
always  seemed  to  think  that  he  had  a  sort  of  prescriptive  right 
to  the  buffalo,  and  to  look  upon  them  as  something  belonging 
peculiarly  to  himself.  Nothing  excited  his  indignation  so 
much  as  any  Avanton  destruction  committed  among  the  cows, 
and  in  his  view  shooting  a  calf  was  a  cardinal  sin. 

Henry  Chatillon  and  Tete  Rouge  were  of  the  same  age ;  that 
is,  about  thirty.  Henry  was  twice  as  large,  and  fully  six 
times  as  strong  as  Tete  Rouge.  Henry's  face  was  roughened 
by  winds  and  storms;  Tete  Rouge's  was  bloated  by  sherry 
cobblers  and  brandy  toddy.     Henry  talked  of  Indians  and 


THE  CALIFORNIA   AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  273 

buffalo;  Tete  Rouge  of  theaters  and  oyster  cellars.  Henry 
had  led  a  life  of  hardship  and  privation ;  Tete  Rouge  never  had 
a  whim  which  he  would  not  gratify  at  the  first  moment  he 
was  able.  Henry  moreover  was  the  most  disinterested  man  1 
ever  saw;  while  Tete  Rouge,  though  equally  good-natured  in 
his  way,  cared  for  nobody  but  himself.  Yet  we  would  not 
have  lost  him  on  any  account;  he  admirably  served  the  pur- 
pose of  a  jester  in  a  feudal  castle;  our  camp  would  have  been 
lifeless  without  him.  For  the  past  week  he  had  fattened  in  a 
most  amazing  manner;  and,  indeed,  this  was  not  at  all  sur- 
prising, since  his  appetite  was  most  inordinate.  He  was  eat- 
ing from  morning  till  night;  half  the  time  he  would  be  at 
work  cooking  some  private  repast  for  himself,  and  he  paid  a 
visit  to  the  coffee-pot  eight  or  ten  times  a  day.  His  rueful 
and  disconsolate  face  became  jovial  and  rubicund,  his  eyes 
stood  out  like  a  lobster's,  and  his  spirits,  which  before  were 
sunk  to  the  depths  of  despondency,  were  now  elated  in  pro- 
portion; all  day  he  was  singing,  whistling,  laughing,  and 
telling  stories.  Being  mortally  afraid  of  Jim  Gurney,  he 
kept  close  in  the  neighborhood  of  our  tent.  As  he  had  seen 
an  abundance  of  low  dissipated  life,  and  had  a  considerable 
fund  of  humor,  his  anecdotes  were  extremely  amusing, 
especially  since  he  never  hesitated  to  place  himself  in  a  ludi- 
crous point  of  view,  provided  he  could  raise  a  laugh  by  doing 
so.  Tete  Rouge,  however,  was  sometimes  rather  trouble- 
some; he  had  an  inveterate  habit  of  pilfering  provisions  at  all 
times  of  the  day.  He  set  ridicule  at  utter  defiance;  and  be- 
ing without  a  particle  of  self-respect,  he  would  never  have 
given  over  his  tricks,  even  if  they  had  drawn  upon  him  the 
scorn  of  the  whole  party.  Now  and  then,  indeed,  something 
worse  than  laughter  fell  to  his  share;  on  these  occasions  he 
would  exhibit  much  contrition,  but  half  an  hour  after  we 
would  generally  observe  him  stealing  round  to  the  box  at  the 
back  of  the  cart  and  slyly  making  off  with  the  provisions  which 
Delorier  had  laid  by  for  supper.  He  was  very  fond  of  smok- 
ing; but  having  no  tobacco  of  his  own,  we  used  to  provide 
him  with  as  much  as  he  wanted,  a  small  piece  at  a  time.  At 
first  we  gave  him  half  a  pound  together;  but  this  experiment 
proved  an  entire  failure,  for  he  invariably  lost  not  only  the 
tobacco,  but  the  knife  intrusted  to  him  for  cutting  it,  and  a 
few  minutes  after  he  would  come  to  us  with  many  apologies 
and  beg  for  more. 

We  had  been  two  days  at  this  camp,  and  some  of  the  meat 
was  nearly  fit  for  transportation,  when  a  storm  came  suddenly 


274  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

upon  us.  About  sunset  the  whole  sky  grew  as  black  as  ink, 
and  the  long  grass  at  the  river's  edge  bent  and  rose  mournfully 
with  the  first  gusts  of  the  approaching  hurricane.  Munroe 
and  his  two  companions  brought  their  guns  and  placed  them 
under  cover  of  our  tent.  Having  no  shelter  for  themselves, 
they  built  a  fire  of  driftwood  that  might  have  defied  a  cata- 
ract, and  wrapped  in  their  buffalo  robes,  sat  on  the  ground 
around  it  to  bide  the  fury  of  the  storm.  Delorier  ensconced 
liimself  under  the  cover  of  the  cart.  Shaw  and  I,  together 
with  Henry  and  Tete  Rouge,  crowded  into  the  little  tent; 
but  first  of  all  the  dried  meat  was  piled  together,  and  well 
protected  by  buffalo-robes  pinned  firmly  to  the  ground. 
About  nine  o'clock  the  storm  broke,  amid  absolute  darkness; 
it  blew  a  gale,  and  torrents  of  rain  roared  over  the  boundless 
expanse  of  open  prairie.  Our  tent  was  filled  with  mist  and 
spray  beating  through  the  canvas,  and  saturating  everything 
within.  We  could  only  distinguish  each  other  at  short  inter- 
vals by  the  dazzling  flash  of  lightning,  which  displayed  the 
whole  waste  around  us  with  its  momentary  glare.  We  had 
our  fears  for  the  tent;  but  for  an  hour  or  two  it  stood  fast, 
until  at  length  the  cap  gave  way  before  a  furious  blast;  the 
pole  tore  through  the  top,  and  in  an  instant  we  were  half 
suffocated  by  the  cold  and  dripping  folds  of  the  canvas,  which 
fell  down  upon  us.  Seizing  upon  our  guns,  we  placed  them 
erect,  in  order  to  lift  the  saturated  cloth  above  our  heads.  In 
this  agreeable  situation,  involved  among  wet  blankets  and 
buffalo  robes,  we  spent  several  hours  of  the  night  during 
which  the  storm  would  not  abate  for  a  moment,  but  pelted 
down  above  our  heads  with  merciless  fury.  Before  long  the 
ground  beneath  us  became  soaked  with  moisture,  and  the  water 
gathered  there  in  a  pool  two  or  three  inches  deep;  so  that  for 
a  considerable  part  of  the  night  we  were  partially  immersed 
in  a  cold  bath.  In  spite  of  all  this,  Tete  Rouge's  flow  of 
spirits  did  not  desert  him  for  an  instant;  he  laughed,  whistled, 
and  sung  in  defiance  of  the  storm,  and  that  night  he  paid  off 
the  long  arrears  of  ridicule  which  he  owed  us.  While  we  lay 
in  silence,  enduring  the  infliction  with  what  philosophy  we 
could  muster,  Tete  Rouge,  who  was  intoxicated  with  animal 
spirits,  was  cracking  jokes  at  our  expense  by  the  hour  to- 
gether. At  about  three  o'clock  in  the  morning,  "preferring 
the  tyranny  of  the  open  night"  to  such  a  wretched  shelter,  we 
crawled  out  from  beneath  the  fallen  canvas.  The  wind  had 
abated,  but  the  rain  fell  steadily.  The  fire  of  the  California 
men  still  blazed  amid  the  darkness,  and  we  joined  them  as 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL.  275 

they  sat  around  it.  We  made  ready  some  hot  coffee  by  way 
of  refreshment;  but  when  some  of  the  party  sought  to  replen- 
ish their  cups,  it  was  found  that  Tete  Rouge,  having  dis- 
posed of  his  own  share,  had  privately  abstracted  the  coffee-pot 
and  drank  up  the  rest  of  the  contents  out  of  the  spout. 

In  the  morning,  to  our  great  joy,  an  unclouded  sun  rose 
upon  the  prairie.  We  presented  rather  a  laughable  appear- 
ance, for  the  cold  and  clammy  buckskin,  saturated  with  water, 
clung  fast  to  our  limbs;  the  light  wind  and  warm  sunshine 
soon  dried  them  again,  and  then  we  were  all  incased  in  armor 
of  intolerable  rigidity.  Roaming  all  day  over  the  prairie  and 
shooting  two  or  three  bulls,  were  scarcely  enough  to  restore 
the  stift'ened  leather  to  its  usual  pliancy. 

Besides  Henry  Chatillon,  Shaw  and  I  were  the  only  hunters 
in  the  party.  Munroe  this  morning  made  an  attempt  to  run 
a  buffalo,  but  his  horse  could  not  come  up  to  the  game.  Shaw 
went  out  with  him,  and  being  better  mounted  soon  found 
himself  in  the  midst  of  the  herd.  Seeing  nothing  but  cows 
and  calves  around  him,  he  checked  his  horse.  An  old  bull 
came  galloping  on  the  open  prairie  at  some  distance  behind, 
and  turning,  Shaw  rode  across  his  path,  leveling  his  gun  as 
he  passed,  and  shooting  him  through  the  shoulder  into  the 
heart.  The  heavy  bullets  of  Shaw's  double-barreled  gun 
made  wild  work  wherever  they  struck. 

A  great  flock  of  buzzards  were  usually  soaring  about  a  few 
trees  that  stood  on  the  island  just  below  our  camp.  Through- 
out the  whole  of  yesterday  we  had  noticed  an  eagle  among 
them;  to-day  he  was  still  there;  and  Tete  Rouge,  declaring 
that  he  would  kill  the  bird  of  America,  borrowed  Delorier's 
gun  and  set  out  on  his  unpatriotic  mission.  As  might  have 
been  expected,  the  eagle  suffered  no  great  harm  at  his  hands. 
He  soon  returned,  saying  that  he  could  not  find  him,  but  had 
shot  a  buzzard  instead.  Being  required  to  produce  the  bird 
in  proof  of  his  assertion,  he  said  he  believed  that  he  was  not 
quite  dead,  but  he  must  be  hurt,  from  the  swiftness  with 
which  he  flew  off. 

" If  you  want,"  said  Tete  Rouge,  "I'll  go  and  get  one  of  his 
feathers;  I  knocked  off  plenty  of  them  when  I  shot  him." 

Just  opposite  our  camp  was  another  island  covered  with 
bushes,  and  behind  it  was  a  deep  pool  of  water,  while  two  or 
three  considerable  streams  coursed  over  the  sand  not  far  off.  I 
was  bathing  at  this  place  in  the  afternoon  when  a  white  wolf, 
larger  than  the  largest  Newfoundland  dog,  ran  out  from  behind 
the  point  of  the  island,  and  galloped  leisurely  over  the  sand 


276  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL, 

not  half  a  stone's  throw  distant.  I  could  plainly  see  his  red 
eyes  and  the  bristles  about  his  snout ;  he  was  an  ugly  scoundrel, 
with  a  bushy  tail,  large  head,  and  a  most  repulsive  counte- 
nance. Having  neither  rifle  to  shoot  nor  stone  to  pelt  him 
with,  I  was  looking  eagerty  after  some  missile  for  his  benefit, 
when  the  report  of  a  gun  came  from  the  camp,  and  the  ball  threw 
up  the  sand  just  beyond  him;  at  this  he  gave  a  slight  jump, 
and  stretched  away  so  swiftly  that  he  soon  dwindled  into  a 
mere  speck  on  the  distant  sand-beds.  The  number  of  carcasses 
that  by  this  time  were  lying  about  the  prairie  all  around  us 
summoned  the  wolves  from  every  quarter;  the  sj^ot  where 
Shaw  and  Henry  had  hunted  together  soon  became  their  fav- 
orite resort,  for  here  about  a  dozen  dead  buifalo  were  ferment- 
ing under  the  hot  sun.  I  used  often  to  go  over  the  river  and 
watch  them  at  their  meal;  by  lying  under  the  bank  it  was 
easy  to  get  a  full  view  of  them.  Three  different  kinds  were 
present;  there  were  the  white  wolves  and  the  gray  wolves, 
both  extremely  large,  and  besides  these  the  small  prairie 
wolves,  not  much  bigger  than  spaniels.  They  would  howl 
and  fight  in  a  crowd  around  a  single  carcass,  yet  they  were  so 
watchful,  and  their  senses  so  acute,  that  I  never  was  able  to 
crawl  within  a  fair  shooting  distance;  whenever  I  attempted 
it,  they  would  all  scatter  at  once  and  glide  silently  away 
through  the  tall  grass.  The  air  above  this  spot  was  always 
full  of  buzzards  or  black  vultures;  whenever  the  wolves  left  a 
carcass  they  would  descend  upon  it,  and  cover  it  so  densely 
that  a  rifle-bullet  shot  at  random  among  the  gormandizing 
crowd  would  generally  strike  down  two  or  three  of  them. 
These  birds  would  now  be  sailing  by  scores  just  above  our 
camp,  their  broad  black  wings  seeming  half  transparent  as 
they  expanded  them  against  the  bright  sky.  The  wolves  and 
the  buzzards  thickened  about  us  with  every  hour,  and  two  or 
three  eagles  also  came  into  the  feast.  I  killed  a  bull  within 
rifle-shot  of  the  camp;  that  night  the  wolves  made  a  fearful 
liowling  close  at  hand,  and  in  the  morning  the  carcass  was 
completely  hollowed  out  by  these  voracious  feeders. 

After  we  had  remained  four  days  at  this  camp  we  prepared 
to  leave  it.  AVe  had  for  our  own  part  about  five  hundred 
pounds  of  dried  meat,  and  the  California  men  had  prepared 
some  three  hundred  more;  this  consisted  of  the  fattest  and 
choicest  parts  of  eight  or  nine  cows,  a  very  small  quantity 
only  being  taken  from  each,  and  the  rest  abandoned  to  the 
wolves.  The  pack  animals  were  laden,  the  horses  were  saddled, 
and  the  mules  harnessed  to  the  cart.     Even  Tete  Rouge  wa^ 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAlL.  ^11 

ready  at  last,  and  slowly  movini^from  the  ground,  we  resumed 
our  journey  eastward.  When  we  had  advanced  about  a  mile, 
Shaw  missed  a  valuable  hunting  knife  and  turned  back  in 
search  of  it,  thinking  that  he  had  left  it  at  the  camp.  He 
approached  the  place  cautiouslj',  fearful  that  Indians  might 
be  lurking  about,  for  a  deserted  camp  is  dangerous,  to  return 
to.  He  saw  no  enemy,  but  the  scene  was  a  wild  and  dreary 
one;  the  prairie  was  overshadowed  by  dull,  leaden  clouds,  for 
the  day  was  dark  and  gloomy.  The  ashes  of  the  tires  were 
still  smoking  by  the  river-side;  the  grass  around  them  was 
trampled  down  by  men  and  horses,  and  strewn  with  all  the 
litter  of  a  camp.  Our  departure  had  been  a  gathering  signal 
to  the  birds  and  beasts  of  prey;  Shaw  assured  me  that  literally 
dozens  of  wolves  were  prowling  about  the  smoldering  tires, 
while  multitudes  were  roaming  over  the  prairie  around;  they 
all  fled  as  he  approached,  some  running  over  the  sand-beds  and 
some  over  the  grassy  plains.  The  vultures  in  great  clouds 
were  soaring  overhead,  and  the  dead  bull  near  the  camp  was 
completely  blackened  by  the  flock  that  had  alighted  upon  it; 
they  flapped  their  broad  wings,  and  stretched  upward  their 
crested  heads  and  long  skinny  necks,  fearing  to  remain,  yet 
reluctant  to  leave  their  disgusting  feast.  As  he  searched 
about  the  fires  he  saw  the  wolves  seated  on  the  distant  hills 
waiting  for  his  departure.  Having  looked  in  vain  for  his 
knife,  he  mounted  again  and  left  the  wolves  and  the  vultures 
to  banquet  freely  upon  the  carrion  of  the  camp. 

CHAPTER  XXYI. 

DOWN   THE   ARKANSAS. 

They  quitted  not  their  harness  bright, 
Neither  by  day  nor  yet  by  night ; 
They  hiy  down  to  rest 
"With  corslet  laced, 
Pillowed  on  buckler  cold  and  hard. 
They  carved  at  the  meal 
With  gloves  of  steel. 
And  they  drank  the  red  wine  though  the  helmet  bnrrod. 

The  Lay  ok  the  Last  31instrel. 

In  the  summmer  of  1846  the  wild  and  lonely  banks  of  the 
Upper  Arkansas  behold  for  the  first  time  the  passage  of  an 
army.  General  Kearny,  on  his  march  to  Santa  Fe,  adopted 
this  route  in  preference  to  the  old  trail  of  the  Cimarron. 
When  we  came  down  the  main  body  of  the  troops  had  already 
passed  on;  Price's  Missouri  regiment,  however,  was  still  on 


278  THli:  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

the  way,  having  left  the  frontier  much  later  than  the  rest; 
and  about  this  time  we  began  to  meet  them  moving  along  the 
trail,  one  or  two  companies  at  a  time.  No  men  ever  embarked 
upon  a  military  expedition  with  a  greater  love  for  the  work 
before  them  than  the  Missourians;  but  if  discipline  and  sub- 
ordination be  the  criterion  of  merit,  these  soldiers  were  worth- 
less indeed.  Yet  when  their  exploits  have  rung  through  all 
America,  it  would  be  absurd  to  deny  that  they  were  excellent 
irregular  troops.  Their  victories  were  gained  in  the  teeth  of 
every  established  precedent  of  warfare ;  they  were  owing  to  a 
singular  combination  of  military  qualities  in  the  men  them- 
selves. Without  discipline  or  a  spirit  of  subordination,  they 
knew  how  to  keep  their  ranks  and  act  as  one  man.  Doni- 
phan's regiment  marched  through  New  Mexico  more  like  a 
band  of  free  companions  than  like  the  paid  soldiers  of  a 
modern  government.  When  General  Taj'lor  complimented 
Doniphan  on  his  success  at  Sacramento  and  elsewhere,  the 
colonel's  reply  very  well  illustrates  the  relations  which  sub- 
sisted between  the  officers  and  men  of  his  command : 

"I  don't  know  anything  of  the  maneuvers.  The  boys 
kept  coming  to  me,  to  let  them  charge ;  and  when  I  saw  a  good 
opportunity,  I  told  them  the}'-  might  go.  They  were  off  like 
a  shot,  and  that's  all  I  know  about  it." 

The  backwoods  lawyer  was  better  fitted  to  conciliate  the 
good  will  than  to  command  the  obedience  of  his  men.  There 
were  manj^  serving  under  him,  who  both  from  character  and 
education  could  better  have  held  command  than  he. 

At  the  battle  of  Sacramento  his  frontiersmen  fought  under 
every  possible  disadvantage.  The  Mexicans  had  chosen  their 
own  position ;  they  were  drawn  up  across  the  valley  that  led 
to  their  native  city  of  Chihuahua;  their  whole  front  was 
covered  by  intrenchments  and  defended  by  batteries  of  heavy 
cannon;  they  outnumbered  the  invaders  five  to  one.  An 
eagle  flew  over  the  Americans,  and  a  deep  murmur  rose  along 
their  lines.  The  enemy's  batteries  opened;  long  they  re- 
mained under  fire,  but  when  at  length  the  word  was  given, 
they  shouted  and  ran  forward.  In  one  of  the  divisions,  when 
midway  to  the  enemy,  a  drunken  officer  ordered  a  halt;  the 
exasperated  men  hesitated  to  ohej. 

"  Forward,  boys !"  cried  a  private  from  the  ranks ;  and  the 
Americans,  rushing  like  tigers  upon  the  enemj^,  bounded  over 
the  breastwork.  Four  hundred  Mexicans  were  slain  upon  the 
spot  and  the  rest  fled,  scattering  over  the  plain  like  sheep. 
Tl]e  standards,  cannon,  and  baggage  were  taken,  and  among 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  270 

the  rest  a  wagon  laden'  with  cords,  which  the  Mexicans,  in 
the  fullness  of  their  confidence,  had  made  ready  for  tying  the 
American  prisoners. 

Doniphan's  volunteers,  who  gained  this  victory,  passed  up 
with  the  main  army;  but  Price's  soldiers,  whom  we  now  met, 
were  men  from  the  same  neighborhood,  precisely  similar  in 
character,  manner,  and  appearance.  One  forenoon,  as  we  were 
descending  upon  a  very  wide  meadow,  where  we  meant  to  rest 
for  an  hour  or  two,  we  saw  a  dark  body  of  horsemen  approach- 
ing at  a  distance.  In  order  to  find  water,  we  were  obliged  to 
turn  aside  to  the  river  bank,  a  full  half  mile  from  the  trail. 
Here  we  put  up  a  kind  of  awning,  and  spreading  buffalo  robes 
on  the  ground,  Shaw  and  I  sat  down  to  smoke  beneath  it. 

"We  are  going  to  catch  it  now,"  said  Shaw;  "look  at  those 
fellows;  there  '11  be  no  peace  for  us  here." 

And  in  good  truth  about  half  the  volunteers  had  straggled 
away  from  the  line  of  march,  and  were  riding  over  the  meadow 
toward  us. 

"  How  are  you?"  said  the  first  who  came  up,  alighting  from 
his  horse  and  throwing  himself  upon  the  ground.  The  rest 
followed  close,  and  a  score  of  them  soon  gathered  about  us, 
some  lying  at  full  length  and  some  sitting  on  horseback. 
They  all  belonged  to  a  company  raised  in  St.  Louis.  There 
were  some  ruftian  faces  among  them,  and  some  haggard  with 
debauchery;  but  on  the  whole  they  were  extremely  good- 
looking  men,  superior  beyond  measure  to  the  ordinary  rank 
and  file  of  an  army.  Except  that  they  were  booted  to  the 
knees,  they  wore  their  belts  and  military  trappings  over  the 
ordinary  dress  of  citizens.  Besides  their  swords  and  holster 
pistols,  they  carried  slung  from  their  saddles  the  excellent 
Springfield  carbines,  loaded  at  the  breech.  They  inquired  the 
character  of  our  party,  and  were  anxious  to  know  the  prospect 
of  killing  buffalo,  and  the  chance  that  their  horses  would  stand 
the  journey  to  Santa  Fe.  All  this  was  well  enough,  but  a 
moment  after  a  worse  visitation  came  upon  us. 

"  How  are  you,  strangers?  whar  are  j^ou  going  and  whar  are 
you  from?"  said  a  fellow,  who  came  trotting  up  with  an  old 
straw  hat  on  his  head.  He  was  dressed  in  the  coarsest  brown 
homespun  cloth.  His  face  was  rather  sallow  from  fever-and- 
ague,  and  his  tall  figure,  though  strong  and  sinew}^  was  quite 
thin,  and  had  besides  an  angular  look,  which,  together  with 
his  boorish  seat  on  horseback,  gave  Inm  an  appearance  any- 
thing but  graceful.  Plenty  more  of  the  same  stamp  wore 
close  behind  him.     Their  company  was  raised  in  one  of  the 


280  Tin^  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

frontier  counties,  and  we  soon  had  ^abundant  evidence  of 
their  rustic  breeding;  dozens  of  them  came  crowding  round, 
pushing  between  our  first  visitors,  and  staring  at  us  with 
unabashed  faces. 

"Are  you  the  captain?"  asked  one  fellow. 

"What's  your  business  out  here?'^  asked  another. 

"  Whar  do  you  live  when  you're  at  home?"  said  a  third. 

"I  reckon  you're  traders,"  surmised  a  fourth ;  and  to  crown 
the  whole,  one  of  them  came  confidentially  to  my  side  and 
inquired  in  a  low  voice,  "What's  your  partner's  name?"- 

As  each  newcomer  repeated  the  same  questions,  the 
nuisance  became  intolerable.  Our  military  visitors  were  soon 
disgusted  at  the  concise  nature  of  our  replies,  and  we  could 
overhear  them  muttering  curses  against  us.  While  we  sat 
smoking,  not  in  the  best  imaginable  humor,  Tete  Rouge's 
tongue  was  never  idle.  He  never  forgot  his  military  charac- 
ter, and  during  the  whole  interview  he  was  incessantly  busy 
among  his  fellow-soldiers.  At  length  we  placed  him  on  the 
ground  before  us,  and  told  him  that  he  might  play  the  part 
of  spokesman  for  the  whole.  Tete  Rouge  was  delighted,  and 
we  soon  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  him  talk  and  gabble  at 
such  a  rate  that  the  torrent  of  questions  was  in  a  great  meas- 
ure diverted  from  us.  A  little  while  after,  to  our  amazement, 
we  saw  a  large  cannon  with  four  horses  come  lumbering  up 
behind  the  crowd;  and  the  driver,  who  was  perched  on  one  of 
the  animals,  stretching  his  neck  so  as  to  look  over  the  rest  of 
the  men,  called  out: 

"  Whar  are  you  from,  and  what's  your  business?" 

The  captain  of  one  of  the  companies  was  among  our  visitors, 
drawn  by  the  same  curiosity  that  had  attracted  his  men. 
Unless  their  faces  belied  them,  not  a  few  in  the  crowd  might 
with  great  advantage  have  changed  places  with  their  com- 
mander. 

"Well,  men,"  said  he,  lazily  rising  from  the  ground  where 
he  had  been  lounging,  "it's  getting  late,  I  reckon  we  had 
better  be  moving." 

"I  shan't  start  yet  anyhow,"  said  one  fellow,  who  was 
lying  half  asleep  with  his  head  resting  on  his  arm. 

"Don't  be  in  a  hurry,  captain,"  added  the  lieutenant. 

"  Well,  have  it  your  own  way,  we'll  wait  a  while  longer,"  re- 
plied the  obsequious  commander. 

At  length  however  our  visitors  went  straggling  away  as 
they  had  come,  and  we,  to  our  great  relief,  were  left  alone 
airain. 


THE  CALlFORJSlxi  AAJJ  OREGOj^  TRAIL  28 1 

No  one  can  deny  the  intrepid  braveiy  of  these  men,  their 
intelligence  and  the  bold  frankness  of  their  character,  free 
from  all  that  is  mean  and  sordid.  Yet  for  the  moment  the 
extreme  roughness  of  their  manners  half  inclines  one  to  for- 
get their  heroic  qualities.  Most  of  them  seem  without  the 
least  perception  of  delicacy  or  propriety,  though  among  them 
individuals  may  be  found  in  whose  manners  there  is  a  plain 
courtesy,  while  their  features  bespeak  a  gallant  spirit  equal  to 
any  enterprise. 

No  one  was  more  relieved  than  Delorier  by  the  departure 
of  the  volunteers ;  for  dinner  was  getting  colder  every  moment. 
He  spread  a  well-whitened  buffalo  hide  upon  the  grass,  placed 
in  the  middle  the  juicy  hump  of  a  fat  cow,  ranged  around 
it  the  tin  plates  and  cups,  and  then  acquainted  us  that  all  was 
ready.  Tete  Rouge,  with  his  usual  alacrity  on  such  occasions, 
was  the  first  to  take  his  seat.  In  his  former  capacity  of  steam- 
boat clerk,  he  had  learned  to  prefix  the  honorary  3Uster  to 
everybody's  name,  whether  of  high  or  low  degree;  so  Jim 
Gurney  was  Mr.  Gurney,  Henry  was  Mr.  Henry,  and  even 
Delorier,  for  the  first  time  in  his  life,  heard  himself  addressed 
as  Mr.  Delorier.  This  did  not  prevent  his  conceiving  a  vio- 
lent enmity  against  Tete  Rouge,  who  in  his  futile  though 
praiseworthy  attempts  to  make  himself  useful,  used  always  to 
intermeddle  with  cooking  the  dinners.  Delorier's  disposition 
knew  no  medium  between  smiles  and  sunshine  and  a  down- 
right tornado  of  wrath;  he  said  nothing  to  Tete  Rouge,  but 
his  wrongs  rankled  in  his  breast.  Tete  Rouge  had  taken  his 
place  at  dinner;  it  was  his  happiest  moment;  he  sat  enveloped 
in  the  old  buffalo-coat,  sleeves  turned  up  in  preparation  for 
the  work,  and  his  short  legs  crossed  on  the  grass  before  him; 
he  had  a  cup  of  coffee  by  his  side  and  his  knife  ready  in  his 
hand,  and  while  he  looked  upon  the  fat  hump  ribs,  his  eyes 
dilated  with  anticipation.  Delorier  sat  just  opposite  to  him, 
and  the  rest  of  us  by  this  time  had  taken  our  seat. 

"How  is  this,  Delorier?  You  haven't  given  us  bread 
enough." 

At  this  Delorier's  placid  face  flew  instantly  into  a  parox- 
ysm of  contortions.  He  grinned  with  wrath,  chattered,  ges- 
ticulated, and  hurled  forth  a  volley  of  incoherent  words  in 
broken  English  at  the  astonished  Tete  Rouge.  It  was  just 
possible  to  make  out  that  he  was  accusing  him  of  having 
stolen  and  eaten  four  large  cakes  which  had  been  laid  by  for 
dinner.  Tete  Rouge,  utterly  confounded  at  this  sudden  at- 
tack, stared  at  Delorier  for  a  moment  in  dumb  amazement, 


282  THE  CALIFOnmA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL: 

with  mouth  aud  eyes  wide  open.  At  last  he  found  speech, 
and  protested  that  the  accusation  was  false;  and  that  he 
could  not  conceive  how  he  had  offended  Mr.  Delorier,  or  pro- 
voked hira  to  use  such  ungentleraanly  expressions.  The 
tempest  of  words  raged  with  such  fury  that  nothing  else 
could  be  heard.  But  Tete  Rouge,  from  his  greater  command 
of  English,  had  a  manifest  advantage  over  Delorier,  who  after 
sputtering  and  grimacing  for  a  while,  found  his  words  quite 
inadequate  to  the  expression  of  his  wrath.  He  jumped  up 
and  vanished,  jerking  out  between  his  teeth  one  furious  s^cr^ 
enfant  de  grace,  a  Canadian  title  of  honor,  made  doubly 
emphatic  by  being  usually  applied  together  with  a  cut  of  the 
whip  to  refractor}^  mules  and  horses. 

The  next  morning  we  saw  an  old  buffalo  bull  escorting  his 
cow  with  two  small  calves  over  the  prairie.  Close  behind  came 
four  or  live  large  white  wolves,  sneaking  steathily  through 
the  long  meadow-grass,  and  watching  for  the  moment  when 
one  of  the  children  should  chance  to  lag  behind  his  parents. 
The  old  bull  kept  well  on  his  guard,  and  faced  about  now  and 
then  to  keep  the  prowling  ruffians  at  a  distance. 

As  we  approached  our  nooning-place,  we  saw  five  or  six 
buffalo  standing  at  the  very  summit  of  a  tall  bluff.  Trot- 
ting forward  to  the  spot  where  we  meant  to  stop,  I  flung  off 
my  saddle  and  turned  my  horse  loose.  By  making  a  circuit 
under  cover  of  some  rising  ground,  I  reached  the  foot  of  the 
bluff  unnoticed,  and  climbed  up  its  steep  side.  Lying  under 
the  brow  of  the  declivity,  I  prepared  to  fire  at  the  buffalo, 
who  stood  on  the  flat  surface  above  not  five  yards  distant. 
Perhaps  I  was  too  hasty,  for  the  gleaming  rifle-barrel  leveled 
over  the  edge  caught  their  notice;  they  turned  and  ran. 
Close  as  they  were,  it  was  impossible  to  kill  them  when  in 
that  position,  and  stepping  upon  the  summit,  I  pursued  them 
over  the  high  arid  table-land.  It  was  extremely  rugged  and 
broken;  a  great  sandy  ravine  was  channeled  through  it,  with 
smaller  ravines  entering  on  each  side,  like  tributary  streams. 
The  buffalo  scattered,  and  I  soon  lost  sight  of  most  of  them  as 
they  scuttled  away  through  the  sandy  chasms;  a  bull  and  a 
cow  alone  kept  in  view.  For  a  while  they  ran  along  the 
edge  of  the  great  ravine,  appearing  and  disappearing  as  they 
dived  into  some  chasm  and  again  emerged  from  it.  At  last 
they  stretched  out  upon  the  broad  prairie,  a  plain  nearly  flat 
and  almost  devoid  of  verdure,  for  every  short  grass-blade 
was  dried  and  shriveled  by  the  glaring  sun.  Now  and  then 
the  old  bull  would  face  toward  me;  whenever  he  did  so  I  fell 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  283 

to  the  ground  and  laj^  motionless.  In  tliis  manner  I  chased 
them  for  about  two  miles,  until  at  length  I  heard  in  front  a 
deep  hoarse  bellowing.  A  moment  after,  a  band  of  about  a 
hundred  bulls,  before  hidden  by  a  slight  swell  of  the  plain, 
came  at  once  into  view.  The  fugitives  ran  toward  them. 
Instead  of  mingling  with  the  band,  as  I  expected,  they  passed 
directly  through,  and  continued  their  flight.  At  this  I  gave 
up  the  chase,  and  kneeling  down,  crawled  to  within  gunshot 
of  the  bulls,  and  with  panting  breath  and  trickling  brow  sat 
down  on.  the  ground  to  watch  them;  my  presence  did  not 
disturb  them  in  the  least.  They  were  not  feeding,  for,  in- 
deed, there  was  nothing  to  eat;  but  they  seemed  to  have 
chosen  the  parched  and  scorcliing  desert  as  the  scene  of  their 
amusements.  Some  were  rolling  on  the  ground  amid  a  cloud 
of  dust;  others,  with  a  hoarse  rumbling  bellow,  were  butting 
their  large  heads  together,  while  many  stood  motionless,  as  if 
quite  inanimate.  Except  their  monstrous  growth  of  tangled 
grizzly  mane,  they  had  no  hair;  for  their  old  coat  had  fallen 
off  in  the  spring,  and  their  new  one  had  not  as  yet  appeared. 
Sometimes  an  old  bull  would  step  forward,  and  gaze  at  me 
with  a  grim  and  stupid  countenance;  then  he  would  turn  and 
butt  his  next  neighbor;  then  he  would  lie  down  and  roll  over 
in  the  dirt,  kicking  his  hoofs  in  the  air.  When  satisfied  with 
this  amusement  he  would  jerk  his  head  and  shoulders  upward, 
and  resting  on  his  forelegs  stare  at  me  in  this  position,  half 
blinded  by  his  mane,  and  his  face  covered  with  dirt;  then  up 
he  would  spring  upon  all-fours,  and  shake  his  dusty  sides; 
turning  half  round,  he  would  stand  with  his  beard  touching 
the  ground,  in  an  attitude  of  profound  abstraction,  as  if  re- 
flecting on  his  puerile  conduct.  "You  are  too  ugly  to  live," 
thought  I;  and  aiming  at  the  ugliest,  I  shot  tliree  of  them  in 
succession.  The  rest  Avere  not  at  all  discomposed  at  this; 
they  kept  on  bellowing  and  butting  and  rolling  on  the  ground 
as  before.  Henry  Chatillon  always  cautioned  us  to  keep 
perfectly  quiet  in  the  presence  of  a  wounded  buffalo,  for  any 
movement  is  apt  to  excite  him  to  make  an  attack;  so  I  sat 
still  upon  the  ground,  loading  and  firing  with  as  little  motion 
as  possible.  VVhile  I  was  thus  emploj^ed,  a  spectator  made 
his  appearance:  a  little  antelope  came  running  up  with  re- 
markable gentleness  to  within  fifty  yards;  and  there  it  stood, 
its  slender  neck  arched,  its  small  horns  thrown  back,  and  its 
large  dark  ej'^es  gazing  on  me  with  a  look  of  eager  curiosity. 
By  the  side  of  the  shaggy  and  brutish  monsters  before  me,  it 
seemed  like  some  lovely  young  girl  wandering  near  a  den  of 


284  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

robbers  or  a  nest  of  bearded  pirates.  The  buffalo  looked 
uglier  than  ever.  "Here  goes  for  another  of  you,"  thought 
I,  feeling  in  my  pouch  for  a  percussion-cap.  Not  a  percus- 
sion-cap was  there.  My  good  rifle  was  useless  as  an  old  iron 
bar.  One  of  the  wounded  bulls  had  not  yet  fallen,  and  I 
waited  for  some  time,  hoping  every  moment  that  his  strength 
would  fail  him.  He  still  stood  firm,  looking  grimly  at  me, 
and  disregarding  Henrj^'s  advice  I  rose  and  walked  awaj^ 
Many  of  the  bulls  turned  and  looked  at  me,  but  the  wounded 
brute  made  no  attack.  I  soon  came  upon  a  deep  ravine  which 
would  give  me  shelter  in  case  of  emergency;  so  I  turned 
round  and  threw  a  stone  at  the  bulls.  They  received  it  with 
the  utmost  indifference.  Feeling  myself  insulted  at  their 
refusal  to  be  frightened,  I  swung  my  hat,  shouted,  and  made 
a  show  of  running  toward  them;  at  this  they  crowded  to- 
gether and  galloped  off,  leaving  their  dead  and  wounded  upon 
the  field.  As  I  moved  toward  the  camp  I  saw  the  last  sur- 
vivor totter  and  fall  dead.  My  speed  in  returning  was  won- 
derfully quickened  by  the  reflection  that  the  Pawnees  were 
abroad,  and  that  I  was  defenseless  in  case  of  meeting  with  an 
enemy.  I  saw  no  living  thing,  however,  except  two  or  three 
squalid  old  bulls  scrambling  among  the  sand-hills  that  flanked 
the  great  ravine.  When  I  reached  camp  the  party  were  nearly 
ready  for  the  afternoon  move. 

We  encamped  that  evening  at  a  short  distance  from  the 
river  bank.  About  midnight,  as  we  all  lay  asleep  on  the 
ground,  the  man  nearest  to  me,  gently  reaching  out  his  hand, 
touched  my  shoulder,  and  cautioned  me  at  the  same  time  not 
to  move.  It  was  bright  starlight.  Opening  my  eyes  and 
slightly  turning,  I  saw  a  large  white  Av^olf  moving  stealthily 
around  the  embers  of  our  fire,  with  his  nose  close  to  the 
ground.  Disengaging  my  hand  from  the  blanket,  I  drew  the 
cover  from  my  rifle,  which  lay  close  at  my  side;  the  motion 
alarmed  the  wolf,  and  with  long  leaps  he  bounded  out  of  the 
camp.  Jumping  up,  I  fired  after  him  when  he  was  about 
thirty  yards  distant;  the  melancholy  hum  of  the  bullet 
sounded  far  away  through  the  night.  At  the  sharp  report,  so 
suddenly  breaking  upon  the  stillness,  all  the  men  sprang  up. 

"You've  killed  him,"  said  one  of  them. 

"No  I  haven't,"  said  I;  "there  he  goes,  running  along  the 
river. " 

"Then  there's  two  of  them.  Don't  you  see  that  one  lying 
out  3^onder?" 

We  went  out  to  it,  and  instead  of  a  dead  white  wolf  found 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  285 

the  bleached  skull  of  a  buffalo.  I  had  missed  my  mark,  and 
what  was  worse,  had  grossly  violated  a  stauding  law  of  the 
prairie.  When  in  a  dangerous  part  of  the  country,  it  is  con- 
sidered highly  imprudent  to  lire  a  gun  %fter  encamping,  lest 
the  report  should  reach  the  ears  of  the  Indians. 

The  horses  were  saddled  in  the  morning,  and  the  last  man 
had  lighted  his  pipe  at  the  dying  ashes  of  the  fire.  The 
beauty  of  the  day  enlivened  us  all.  Even  Ellis  felt  its  influ- 
ence, and  occasionally  made  a  remark  as  we  rode  along,  and 
Jim  Gurney  told  endless  stories  of  his  cruisings  in  the  United 
States  service.  The  buffalo  were  abundant,  and  at  length  a 
large  band  of  them  went  running  up  tlie  hills  on  the  left. 

"Do  you  see  them  buffalo?"  said  Ellis,  "now  I'll  bet  any 
man  I'll  go  and  kill  one  with  my  yager." 

And  leaving  his  horse  to  follow  on  with  the  party,  he 
strode  up  the  hill  after  them.  Henry  looked  at  us  with  his 
peculiar  humorous  expression,  and  proposed  that  we  should 
follow  Ellis  to  sec  how  he  would  kill  a  fat  cow.  As  soon  as 
he  was  out  of  sight  we  rode  up  the  hill  after  him,  and  waited 
behind  a  little  ridge  till  we  heard  the  report  of  the  unfailing 
yager.  Mounting  to  the  top,  we  saw  Ellis  clutching  his 
favorite  weapon  with  both  hands,  and  staring  after  the  buffalo, 
who  one  and  all  were  galloping  off  at  full  speed.  As  we  de- 
scended the  hill  we  saw  the  party  straggling  along  the  trail 
below.  When  we  joined  them,  another  scene  of  amateur 
hunting  awaited  us.  I  forgot  to  saj'  that  when  we  met  the 
volunteers  Tete  Rouge  had  obtained  a  horse  from  one  of 
them,  in  exchange  for  his  mule,  whom  he  feared  and  detested. 
This  horse  he  christened  James.  James,  though  not  worth 
so  much  as  the  mule,  was  a  large  and  strong  animal.  Tete 
Rouge  was  very  proud  of  his  new  acquisition,  and  suddenly 
became  ambitious  to  run  a  buffalo  with  him.  At  his  request, 
I  lent  him  my  pistols,  though  not  without  great  misgivings, 
since  when  Tete  Rouge  hunted  buffalo  the  pursuer  was  in 
more  danger  than  the  pursued.  He  hung  the  holsters  at  his 
saddle-bow;  and  now,  as  we  passed  along,  a  band  of  bulls  left 
their  grazing  in  the  meadow  and  galloped  in  a  long  file  across 
the  trail  in  front. 

"  Now's  your  chance,  Tete;  come,  let's  see  yon  kill  a  bull." 

Thus  urged,  the  hunter  cried,  "  Get  up!"  and  James,  obedi- 
ent to  the  signal,  cantered  deliberately  forward  at  an  abomi- 
nably uneasy  gait.  Tete  Rouge,  as  we  contemplated  him 
from  behind,  made  a  most  remarkable  figure.  He  still  wore 
the  old  buffalo  coat;  his  blanket,  which  was  tied  in  a  loos^; 


286  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

bundle  behind  his  saddle,  went  jolting  from  one  side  to  the 
other,  and  a  large  tin  canteen  half  full  of  water,  which  hung 
from  his  pommel,  was  jerked  about  his  leg  in  a  manner  which 
greatly  embarrassedjiim. 

"Let  out  your  horse,  man;  lay  on  your  whip!"  we  called 
out  to  him.  The  buffalo  were  getting  farther  off  at  every 
instant.  James  being  ambitious  to  mend  his  pace,  tugged 
hard  at  the  rein,  and  one  of  his  rider's  boots  escaped  from 
the  stirrup. 

"  Woa!  I  say,  woa!"  cried  Tete  Rouge,  in  great  perturba- 
tion, and  after  much  effort  James's  progress  was  arrested. 
The  hunter  came  trotting  back  to  the  party,  disgusted  with 
buffalo  running,  and  he  was  received  with  overwhelming 
congratulations. 

"Too  good  a  chance  to  lose,"  said  Shaw,  pointing  to 
another  band  of  bulls  on  the  left.  We  lashed  our  horses  and 
galloped  upon  them.  Shaw  killed  one  with  each  barrel  of  his 
gun.  I  separated  another  from  the  herd  and  shot  him.  The 
small  bullet  of  the  rifled  pistol,  striking  too  far  back,  did  not 
immediately  take  effect,  and  the  bull  ran  on  with  unabated 
speed.  A^ain  and  again  I  snapped  the  remaining  pistol  at 
him.  I  primed  it  afresh  three  or  four  times,  and  each  time  it 
missed  fire,  for  the  touch-hole  was  clogged  up.  Returning 
it  to  the  holster,  I  began  to  load  the  empty  pistol,  still  gallop- 
ing by  the  side  of  the  bull.  By  this  time  he  was  grown  des- 
perate. The  foam  flew  from  his  jaws  and  his  tongue  lolled 
out.  Before  the  pistol  was  loaded  he  sprang  upon  me,  and 
followed  up  his  attack  with  a  furious  rush.  The  only  alter- 
native was  to  run  away  or  be  killed.  I  took  to  flight,  and  the 
bull,  bristling  with  fury,  pursued  me  closely.  The  pistol  was 
soon  ready,  and  then  looking  back,  I  saw  his  head  five  or  six 
yards  behind  my  horse's  tail.  To  fire  at  it  would  be  useless, 
for  a  bullet  flattens  against  the  adamantine  skull  of  a  buffalo 
bull.  Inclining  my  body  to  the  left,  I  turned  my  horse  in 
that  direction  as  sharply  as  his  speed  would  permit.  The  bull, 
rushing  blindly  on  with  great  force  and  weight,  did  not  turn 
so  quickly.  As  I  looked  back,  his  neck  and  shoulders  were 
exposed  to  view;  turning  in  the  saddle,  I  shot  a  bullet  through 
them  obliquely  into  his  vitals.  He  gave  over  the  chase  and 
soon  fell  to  the  ground.  An  English  tourist  represents  a  situ- 
ation like  this  as  one  of  imminent  danger;  this  is  a  great  mis- 
take; the  bull  never  pursues  long,  and  the  horse  must  be 
wretched  indeed  that  cannot  keep  out  of  his  way  for  two  or 
three  minutes. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL.  287 

We  were  now  come  to  a  part  of  the  country  where  we  were 
bound  in  common  prudence  to  use  every  possible  precaution. 
We  mounted  guard  at  night,  eacli  man  standing  in  his  turn ; 
and  no  one  ever  slept  without  drawing  his  rifle  close  to  his 
side  or  folding  it  with  him  in  his  blanket.  One  morning  our 
vigilance  was  stimulated  by  our  finding  traces  of  a  large 
Comanche  encampment.  Fortunately  for  us,  however,  it  had 
been  abandoned  nearly  a  week.  On  the  next  evening  we 
found  the  ashes  of  a  recent  fire,  which  gave  us  at  the  time  some 
uneasiness.  At  length  we  reached  the  Caches,  a  place  of 
dangerous  repute;  and  it  had  a  most  dangerous  appearance, 
consisting  of  sand-hills  everywhere  broken  by  ravines  and 
deep  chasms.  Here  we  found  the  grave  oi  Swan,  killed  at 
this  place,  probably  by  the  Pawnees,  two  or  three  weeks  be- 
fore. His  remains,  more  than  once  violated  by  the  Indians 
and  the  wolves,  were  suffered  at  length  to  remain  undisturbed 
in  their  wild  burial  place. 

For  several  days  we  met  detached  companies  of  Price's  regi  • 
ment.  Horses  would  often  break  loose  at  night  from  their 
camps.  One  afternoon  we  picked  up  three  of  these  stragglers 
quietly  grazing  along  the  river.  After  we  came  to  camp  that 
evening,  Jim  Gurney  brought  news  that  more  of  them  were 
in  sight.  It  was  nearly  dark,  and  a  cold,  drizzling  rain  had 
set  in ;  but  we  all  turned  out,  and  after  an  hour's  chase  nine 
horses  were  caught  and  brought  in.  One  of  them  was  equipped 
with  saddle  and  bridle;  pistols  were  hanging  at  the  pommel 
of  the  saddle,  a  carbine  was  slung  at  its  side,  and  a  blanket 
rolled  up  behind  it.  In  the  morning,  glorying  in  our  valuable 
prize,  we  resumed  our  journey,  and  our  cavalcade  presented  a 
much  more  imposing  appearance  than  ever  before.  We  kept 
on  till  the  afternoon,  when,  far  behind,  three  horsemen  ap- 
peared on  the  horizon.  Coming  on  at  a  hand-gallop,  they 
soon  overtook  us,  and  claimed  all  the  horses  as  belonging  to 
themselves  and  others  of  their  company.  They  were  of  course 
given  up,  very  much  to  the  mortification  of  Ellis  and  Jim 
Gurney. 

Our  own  horses  now  showed  signs  of  fatigue,  and  we  re- 
solved to  give  them  half  a  day's  rest.  We  stopped  at  noon 
at  a  grassy  spot  by  the  river.  After  dinner  Shaw  and  Henry 
went  out  to  hunt;  and  while  the  men  lounged  about  the  camp, 
I  lay  down  to  read  in  the  shadow  of  the  cart.  Looking  up,  I 
saw  a  bull  grazing  alone  on  the  prairie  more  than  a  mile  dis- 
tant. I  was  tired  of  reading,  and  taking  mj'  rifie  I  walked 
toward  him.     As  I  came  near,  T  crawled  u|>on  the  ground  until 


288  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OBEQON  TRAIL. 

I  approached  to  within  a  hundred  yards;  here  I  sat  down  upon 
the  grass  and  waited  till  he  should  turn  himself  into  a  proper 
position  to  receive  his  death-woUnd.  He  was  a  grim  old 
veteran.  His  loves  and  his  battles  were  over  for  that  season, 
and  now,  gaunt  and  war-worn,  he  had  withdrawn  from  the 
herd  to  graze  by  himself  and  recruit  his  exhausted  strength. 
He  was  miserably  emaciated;  his  mane  was  all  in  tatters;  his 
hide  was  bare  and  rough  as  an  elephant's,  and  covered  with 
dried  patches  of  the  mud  in  which  he  had  been  wallowing. 
He  showed  all  his  ribs  whenever  he  moved.  He  looked  like 
some  grizzly  old  ruffian  grown  gray  in  blood  and  violence,  and 
scowling  on  all  the  world  from  his  misanthropic  seclusion. 
The  old  savage  looked  up  when  I  first  approached,  and  gave 
me  a  fierce  stare;  then  he  fell  to  grazing  again  with  an  air  of 
contemptuous  indifference.  The  moment  after,  as  if  suddenly 
recollecting  himself,  he  threw  up  his  head,  faced  quickly 
about,  and  to  my  amazement  came  at  a  rapid  trot  directl}^ 
toward  me.  I  was  strongly  impelled  to  get  up  and  run,  but  this 
would  have  been  very  dangerous.  Sitting  quite  still,  I  aimed, 
as  he  came  on,  at  the  thin  part  of  the  skull  above  the  nose. 
After  he  had  passed  over  about  three-quarters  of  the  distance 
between  us,  I  was  on  the  point  of  firing,  when,  to  my  great 
satisfaction,  he  stopped  short.  I  had  full  opportunity  of 
studying  his  countenance;  his  whole  front  was  covered  with 
a  huge  mass  of  coarse  matted  hair,  which  hung  so  low  that 
nothing  but  his  two  forefeet  were  visible  beneath  it;  his 
short  thick  horns  were  blunted  and  split  to  the  very  roots  in 
his  various  battles,  and  across  his  nose  and  forehead  were 
two  or  three  large  white  scars,  which  gave  him  a  grim  and  at 
the  same  time  a  Avhimsical  appearance.  It  seemed  to  me  that 
he  stood  there  motionless  for  a  full  quarter  of  an  hour,  look- 
ing at  me  through  the  tangled  locks  of  his  mane.  For  my 
part,  I  remained  as  quiet  as  he,  and  looked  quite  as  hard;  I 
felt  greatl}^  inclined  to  come  to  terms  with  him.  "My  friend," 
thought  I,  "if  you'll  let  me  off,  I'll  let  you  off."  At  length 
he  seemed  to  have  abandoned  any  hostile  design.  Very  slowly 
and  deliberately  he  began  to  turn  about;  little  by  little  his 
side  came  into  view,  all  beplastered  with  mud.  It  was  a 
tempting  sight.  I  forgot  my  prudent  intentions,  and  fired 
my  rifle ;  a  pistol  would  have  served  at  that  distance.  Round 
spun  old  bull  like  a  top,  and  away  he  galloped  over  the  prairie. 
He  ran  some  distance,  and  even  ascended  a  considerable  hill, 
before  he  lay  down  and  died.  After  shooting  another  bull 
ftmong  the  hills,  I  weot  back  to  camp. 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL.  289 

At  noon,  on  the  14tb  of  September,  a  very  large  Santa  Fe 
caravan  came  up.  The  plain  was  covered  with  the  long  files 
of  their  white-topped  wagons,  the  close  black  carriages  in 
which  the  traders  travel  and  sleep,  large  droves  of  animals, 
and  men  on  horseback  and  on  foot.  They  all  stopped  on  the 
meadow  near  us.  Our  diminutive  cart  and  handful  of  men 
made  but  an  insignificant  tigure  by  the  side  of  their  wide  and 
bustling  camp.  Tete  Rouge  went  over  to  visit  them,  and  soon 
came  back  with  half  a  dozen  biscuits  in  one  hand, and  a  bottle  of 
brandy  in  the  other.  I  inquired  where  he  got  them.  "Oh," 
said  Tete  Rouge,  "  I  know  some  of  the  traders.  Dr.  Dobbs 
is  there  besides."  I  asked  who  Dr.  Dobbs  might  be.  "One 
of  our  St.  Louis  doctors,"  replied  Tete  Rouge.  For  two  days 
past  I  had  been  severely  attacked  by  the  same  disorder  which 
had  so  greatly  reduced  my  strength  when  at  the  mountains; 
at  this  time  I  was  suffering  not  a  little  from  the  sudden  pain 
and  weakness  which  it  occasioned.  Tete  Rouge,  in  answer  to 
my  inquiries,  declared  that  Dr.  Dobbs  was  a  physician  of  the 
first  standing.  Without  at  all  believing  him,  I  resolved  to 
consult  this  eminent  practitioner.  Walking  over  to  the  camp, 
I  found  him  lying  sound  asleep  under  one  of  the  wagons.  He 
offered  in  his  own  person  but  an  indifferent  specimen  of  his 
skill,  for  it  was  five  months  since  I  had  seen  so  cadaverous  a 
face.  His  hat  had  fallen  off,  and  his  yellow  hair  was  all  in 
disorder;  one  of  his  arms  supplied  the  place  of  a  pillow;  his 
pantaloons  were  wrinkled  halfway  up  to  his  knees,  and  he  was 
covered  with  little  bits  of  grass  and  straw,  upon  which  he  had 
rolled  in  his  uneasy  slumber.  A  Mexican  stood  near,  and  I 
made  him  a  sign  that  he  should  touch  the  doctor.  Up  sprang 
the  learned  Dobbs  and,  sitting  upright,  rubbed  his  eyes  and 
looked  about  him  in  great  bewilderment.  I  regretted  the 
necessity  of  disturbing  him,  and  said  I  had  come  to  ask  pro- 
fessional advice.  "  Your  system,  sir,  is  in  a  disordered  state," 
said  he  solemnly,  after  a  short  examination. 

I  inquired  what  might  be  the  particular  species  of  disorder. 

"  Evidently  a  morbid  action  of  the  liver,"  replied  the  medical 
man;  "I  will  give  you  a  prescription." 

Repairing  to  the  back  of  one  of  the  covered  wagons,  he 
scrambled  in;  for  a  moment  I  could  see  nothing  of  him  but 
his  boots.  At  length  he  produced  a  box  which  he  had  ex- 
tracted from  some  dark  recess  within,  and  opening  it,  he  pre- 
sented me  with  a  folded  paper  of  some  size.  "What  is  it?" 
said  I.     "Calomel,"  said  the  doctor. 

Under  the  circumstances  I  would  have  taken  almost  any- 


290  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND   OREGON  TRAIL. 

thing.  There  was  not  enough  to  do  me  much  harm,  and  it 
might  possibly  do  good;  so  at  camp  that  night  I  took  the 
poison  instead  of  supper. 

That  camp  is  worthy  of  notice.  The  traders  warned  us  not 
to  follow  the  main  trail  along  the  river,  "unless,"  as  one  of 
them  observed,  "you  want  to  have  your  throats  cut!"  The 
river  at  this  place  makes  a  bend;  and  a  smaller  trail,  known 
as  the  Ridge-path,  leads  directly  across  the  prairie  from 
point  to  point,  a  distance  of  sixty  or  seventy  miles. 

We  followed  this  trail,  and  after  traveling  seven  or  eight 
miles,  we  came  to  a  small  stream,  where  we  encamped.  Our 
position  was  not  chosen  with  much  forethought  or  military 
skill.  The  water  was  in  a  deep  hollow,  with  steep,  high 
banks;  on  the  grassy  bottom  of  this  hollow  we  picketed  our 
horses,  while  we  ourselves  encamped  upon  the  barren  prairie 
just  above.  The  opportunity  was  admirable  either  for  driv- 
ing off  our  horses  or  attacking  us.  After  dark,  as  Tete  Rouge 
was  sitting  at  supper,  we  observed  him  pointing  with  a  face 
of  speechless  horror  over  the  shoulder  of  Henry,  who  was  op- 
posite to  him.  Aloof  amid  the  darkness  appeared  a  gigantic 
black  apparition;  solemnly  swaying  to  and  fro,  it  advanced 
steadily  upon  us.  Henry,  half  vexed  and  half  amused,  jumped 
up,  spread  out  his  arms,  and  shouted.  The  invader  was  an 
old  buffalo  bull,  who,  with  characteristic  stupidity,  was  walk- 
ing directly  into  camp.  It  cost  some  shouting  and  swinging 
of  hats  before  we  could  bring  him  first  to  a  halt  and  then  to  a 
rapid  retreat. 

That  night  the  moon  was  full  and  bright;  but  as  the  black 
clouds  chased  rapidly  over  it,  we  were  at  one  moment  in  light 
and  at  the  next  in  darkness.  As  the  evening  advanced,  a 
thunder-storm  came  up;  it  struck  us  with  such  violence  that 
the  tent  would  have  been  blown  over  if  we  had  not  interposed 
the  cart  to  break  the  force  of  the  wind.  At  length  it  subsided 
to  a  steady  rain.  I  lay  awake  through  nearly  the  whole  night, 
listening  to  its  dull  patter  upon  the  canvas  above.  The 
moisture,  which  filled  the  tent  and  trickled  from  everything 
in  it,  did  not  add  to  the  comfort  of  the  situation.  About 
twelve  o'clock  Shaw  went  out  to  stand  guard  amid  the  rain 
and  pitch  darkness.  Munroe,  the  most  vigilant  as  well  as  one 
of  the  bravest  among  us,  was  also  on  the  alert.  When  about 
two  hours  had  passed,  Shaw  came  silently  in,  and  touching 
Henry,  called  him  in  a  low  quick  voice  to  come  out.  "What 
is  it?"  I  asked.  "Indian^,  I  believe,"  whispered  Shaw;  "but 
lie  still;  I'll  call  you  if  there's  a  fight." 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  291 

He  and  Henry  went  out  togetber.  I  took  the  cover  from 
my  rifle,  put  a  fresh  percussion  cap  upon  it,  and  then,  being 
in  much  pain,  lay  down  again.  In  about  live  minutes  Shaw 
came  in  again.  "All  right,"  he  said,  as  he  lay  down  to  sleep. 
Henry  was  now  standing  guard  in  his  place.  He  told  me  in 
the  morning  the  particulars  of  the  alarm.  Munroe's  watchful 
eye  discovered  some  dark  objects  down  in  the  hollow,  among 
the  horses,  like  men  creeping  on  all-fours.  Lying  flat  on  their 
faces,  he  and  Shaw  crawled  to  the  edge  of  the  bank,  and  were 
soon  convinced  that  what  they  saw  were  Indians.  Shaw 
silently  withdrew  to  call  Henry,  and  they  all  lay  watching  in 
the  same  position.  Henry's  eye  is  one  of  the  best  on  the 
prairie.  He  detected  after  a  while  the  true  nature  of  the  mov- 
ing objects;  they  were  nothing  but  wolves  creeping  among 
the  horses. 

It  is  very  singular  that  when  picketed  near  a  camp  horses 
seldom  show  any  fear  of  such  an  intrusion.  The  wolves 
appear  to  have  no  other  object  than  that  of  gnawing  the  trail- 
ropes  of  raw-hide  by  which  the  animals  are  secured.  Several 
times  in  the  course  of  the  journey  my  horse's  trail-rope  was 
bitten  in  two  by  these  nocturnal  visitors. 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

THE    SETTLEMENTS. 


And  some  are  in  a  far  couiitree, 
And  some  all  restlessly  at  home: 

But  never  more,  ah  never,  we 
Shall  meet  to  revel  and  to  roam. 

Siege  oi  Corinth 


Bancroft  Libm 


The  next  day  was  extremely  hot,  and  we  rode  from  morn- 
ing till  night  without  seeing  a  tree  or  a  bush  or  a  drop  of 
water.  Our  horses  and  mules  suffered  much  more  than  we, 
but  as  sunset  approached  they  pricked  up  their  ears  and 
mended  their  pace.  Water  was  not  far  off.  When  we  came 
to  the  descent  of  the  broad  shallow  valley  where  it  lay,  an  un- 
looked-for sight  awaited  us.  The  stream  glistened  at  the 
bottom,  and  along  its  banks  were  pitched  a  multitude  of  tents, 
while  hundreds  of  cattle  were  feeding  over  the  meadows. 
Bodies  of  troops,  both  horse  and  foot,  and  long  trains  of 
wagons  with  men,  women,  and  children,  were  moving  over 
the  opposite  ridge  and  descending  the  broad  declivity  in  front. 
These  were  the  Mormon  battalion  in  the  service  of  govern- 
ment, together  with  a  considerable  number  of  Missouri  vol- 


292  THE  CALIFOBNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

unteers.  The  Mormons  were  to  be  paid  off  in  California,  and 
they  were  allowed  to  bring  with  them  their  families  and 
property.  There  was  something  very  striking  in  the  half- 
military,  half-patriarchal  appearance  of  these  armed  fanatics, 
thus  on  their  way  with  their  wives  and  children,  to  found,  it 
might  be,  a  Mormon  empire  in  California.  We  were  much 
more  astonished  than  pleased  at  the  sight  before  us.  In 
order  to  find  an  unoccupied  camping  ground,  we  were  obliged 
to  pass  a  quarter  of  a  mile  up  the  stream,  and  here  we  were 
soon  beset  by  a  swarm  of  Mormons  and  Missourians.  The 
United  States  officer  in  command  of  the  whole  came  also  to 
visit  us,  and  remained  some  time  at  our  camp. 

In  the  morning  the  country  was  covered  with  mist.  We 
were  always  early  risers,  but  before  we  were  ready  the  voices 
of  men  driving  in  the  cattle  sounded  all  around  us.  As  we 
passed  above  their  camp,  we  saw  through  the  obscurity  that  the 
tents  were  falling  and  the  ranks  rapidly  forming;  and  mingled 
with  the  cries  of  women  and  children,  the  rolling  of  the  Mor- 
mon drums  and  the  clear  blast  of  their  trumpets  sounded 
through  the  mist. 

From  that  time  to  the  journey's  end,  we  met  almost  every 
day  long  trains  of  government  wagons,  laden  with  stores  for 
the  troops  and  crawling  at  a  snail's  pace  toward  Santa  Fe. 

Tete  Rouge  had  a  mortal  antipathy  to  danger,  but  on  a  for- 
aging expedition  one  evening,  he  achieved  an  adventure  more 
perilous  than  had  yet  befallen  any  man  in  the  party.  The  night 
after  we  left  the  Ridge-path  we  encamped  close  to  the  river. 
At  sunset  we  saw  a  train  of  wagons  encamping  on  the  trail 
about  three  miles  off;  and  though  we  saw  them  distinctly,  our 
little  cart,  as  it  afterward  proved,  entirely  escaped  their  view. 
For  some  days  Tete  Rouge  had  been  longing  eagerly  after  a 
dram  of  whisky.  So,  resolving  to  improve  the  present  opportu- 
nity, he  mounted  his  horse  James,  slung  his  canteen  over  his 
shoulder,  and  set  forth  in  search  of  his  favorite  liquor.  Some 
hours  passed  without  his  returning.  We  thought  that  he  was 
lost,  or  perhaps  that  some  stray  Indian  had  snapped  him  up. 
While  the  rest  fell  asleep  I  remained  on  guard.  Late  at  night  a 
tremulous  voice  saluted  me  from  the  darkness,  and  Tete  Rouge 
and  James  soon  became  visible,  advancing  toward  the  camp. 
Tete  Rouge  was  in  much  agitation  and  big  with  some  impor- 
tant tidings.  Sitting  down  on  the  shaft  of  the  cart,  he  told 
the  following  stor}^ : 

When  he  left  the  camp  he  had  no  idea,  he  said,  how  late  it 
was.     By  the  time  he  approached  the  wagoners  it  was  per- 


THE  CALtFOHNlA  AND  OliEGON  TRAIL.  290 

fectly  dark;  and  as  he  saw  them  all  sitiinc:  around  their  fires 
within  the  circle  of  wagons,  their  guns  laid  by  their  sides,  he 
thought  he  might  as  well  give  warning  of  his  approach,  in 
order  to  prevent  a  disagreeable  mistake.  Raising  his  voice 
to  the  highest  pitch,  he  screamed  out  in  prolonged  accents, 
"  Camp,  ahoy !"  This  eccentric  salution  produced  anything  but 
the  desired  result.  Hearing  such  hideous  sounds  proceeding 
from  the  outer  darkness,  the  wagoners  thought  that  the  whole 
Pawnee  nation  were  about  to  break  in  and  take  their  scalps. 
Up  they  sprang  staring  with  terror.  Each  man  snatched  his 
gun;  some  stood  behind  the  wagons;  some  threw  themselves 
flat  on  the  ground,  and  in  an  instant  twenty  cocked  muskets 
were  leveled  full  at  the  horrified  Tete  Rouge,  who  just  then 
began  to  be  visible  through  the  darkness. 

"Thar  they  come,"  cried  the  master  wagoner,  "fire,  fire! 
shoot  that  feller." 

"No,  no!"  screamed  Tete  Rouge,  in  an  ecstasy  of  fright; 
"don't  fire,  don't!  I'm  a  friend,  I'm  an  American  citizen!" 

"You're  a  friend,  be  you?"  cried  a  gruff  voice  from  the 
wagons,  "then  what  are  you  yelling  out  thar  for,  like  a  will} 
Injun.     Come  along  up  here  if  you're  a  man." 

"  Keep  your  guns  p'inted  at  him,"  added  the  master  wagoner, 
"may  be  he's  a  decoy,  like." 

Tete  Rouge  in  utter  bewilderment  made  his  approach,  with 
the  gaping  muzzles  of  the  muskets  still  before  his  eyes.  He 
succeeded  at  last  in  explaining  his  character  and  situation, 
and  the  Missourians  admitted  him  into  camp.  He  got  no 
whiskj^;  but  as  he  represented  himself  as  a  great  invalid,  and 
suffering  much  from  coarse  fare,  the}^  made  up  a  contribution 
for  him  of  rice,  biscuit,  and  sugar  from  their  own  rations. 

In  the  morning  at  breakfast,  Tete  Rouge  once  more  related 
this  story.  We  hardly  knew  how  much  of  it  to  believe, 
though  after  some  cross-questioning  we  failed  to  discoverany 
flaw  in  the  narrative.  Passing  b}'  the  wagoner's  camp,  they 
confirmed  Tote  Rouge's  account  in  every  particular. 

"I  wouldn't  have  been  in  that  feller's  place,"  said  one  of 
them,  "for  the  biggest  heap  of  money  in  Missouri." 

To  Tute  Rouge's  great  wrath  they  expressed  a  firm  convic- 
tion that  he  was  crazy.  We  left  them  after  giving  them  the 
advice  not  to  trouble  themselves  about  war  whoops  in  future, 
since  they  would  be  aj)t  to  feel  an  Indian's  arrow  before  they 
heard  his  voice. 

A  day  or  two  after,  we  had  an  adventure  of  another  sort 
with  a  party  of  wagoners.     Henry  and  I  rode  forward  to  bunt. 


204  THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

After  that  day  there  was  no  probability  that  we  should  meet 
with  buffalo,  and  we  were  anxious  to  kill  one  for  the  sake  of 
fresh  meat.  They  were  so  wild  that  we  hunted  all  the  morn- 
ing in  vain,  but  at  noon  as  we  approached  Cow  Creek  we  saw 
a  large  band  feeding  near  its  margin.  Cow  Creek  is  densely 
lined  with  trees  which  intercept  the  view  beyond,  and  it  runs, 
as  we  afterward  found,  at  the  bottom  of  a  deep  trench.  We 
approached  by  riding  along  the  bottom  of  a  ravine.  When 
we  were  near  enough,  I  held  the  horses  while  Henry  crept 
toward  the  buffalo.  I  saw  him  take  his  seat  within  shooting 
distance,  prepare  his  rifle,  and  look  about  to  select  his  victim. 
The  death  of  a  fat  cow  was  certain,  when  suddenly  a  great 
smoke  arose  from  the  bed  of  the  Creek  with  a  rattling  volley 
of  musketry.  A  score  of  long-legged  Missourians  leaped  out 
from  among  the  trees  and  ran  after  the  buffalo,  who  one  and 
all  took  to  their  heels  and  vanished.  These  fellows  had 
crawled  up  the  bed  of  the  Creek  to  within  a  hundred  yards  of 
the  buffalo.  Never  was  there  a  fairer  chance  for  a  shot. 
They  were  good  marksmen ;  all  cracked  away  at  once,  and  yet 
not  a  buffalo  fell.  In  fact  the  animal  is  so  tenacious  of  life 
that  it  requires  no  little  knowledge  of  anatomy  to  kill  it,  and 
it  is  very  seldom  that  a  novice  succeeds  in  his  first  attempt  at 
approaching.  The  balked  Missourians  were  excessively  mor- 
tified, especially  when  Henry  told  them  that  if  they  had  kept 
quiet  he  would  have  killed  meat  enough  in  ten  minutes  to  feed 
their  whole  party.  Our  friends,  who  were  at  no  great  dis- 
tance, hearing  such  a  formidable  fusillade,  thought  the  Indians 
had  fired  the  volley  for  our  benefit.  Shaw  came  galloping  on 
to  reconnoiter  and  learn  if  we  were  yet  in  the  land  of  the 
living. 

At  Cow  Creek  we  found  the  very  welcome  novelty  of  ripe 
grapes  and  plums,  which  grew  there  in  abundance.  At  the 
Little  Arkansas,  not  much  farther  on,  we  saw  the  last  buffalo, 
a  miserable  old  bull,  roaming  over  the  prairie  alone  and  mel- 
ancholy. 

From  this  time  forward  the  character  of  the  country  was 
changing  every  day.  We  had  left  behind  us  the  great  arid 
deserts,  meagerly  covered  by  the  tufted  buffalo  grass,  with 
its  pale  green  hue,  and  its  short  shriveled  blades.  The  plains 
before  us  were  carpeted  with  rich  and  verdant  herbage 
sprinkled  with  flowers.  In  place  of  buffalo  we  found  plenty 
of  prairie  hens,  and  we  bagged  them  by  dozens  without  leav- 
ing the  trail.  In  three  or  four  days  we  saw  before  us  the  broad 
woods  and  the  emerald  meadows  of  Council  Grove,  a  scene 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  295 

of  striking  luxuriance  and  beauty.  It  seemed  like  a  new  sen- 
sation as  we  rode  beneath  the  resounding  arches  of  these  noble 
woods.  The  trees  were  ash,  oak,  elm,  maple,  and  hickory,  their 
mighty  limbs  deeply  overshadowing  the  path,  while  enormous 
grape  vines  were  entwined  among  them,  purple  with  fruit. 
The  shouts  of  our  scattered  part}^,  and  now  and  then  a  report 
of  a  ritle,  rang  amid  the  breathing  stillness  of  the  forest.  We 
rode  forth  again  with  regret  into  the  broad  light  of  the  open 
prairie.  Little  more  than  a  hundred  miles  now  separated  us 
from  the  frontier  settlements.  The  whole  intervening  country 
was  a  succession  of  verdant  prairies,  rising  in  broad  swells 
and  relieved  by  trees  clustering  like  an  oasis  around  some 
spring,  or  following  the  course  of  a  stream  along  some  fertile 
hollow.  These  are  the  prairies  of  the  poet  and  the  novelist. 
We  had  left  danger  behind  us.  Nothing  was  to  be  feared 
from  the  Indians  of  this  region,  the  Sacs  and  Foxes,  the  Kan- 
sas and  the  Osages.  We  had  met  with  signal  good  fortune. 
Although  for  five  months  we  had  been  traveling  with  an  insuffi- 
cient force  through  a  country  where  we  were  at  any  moment 
liable  to  depredation,  not  a  single  animal  had  been  stolen  from 
us,  and  our  only  loss  had  been  one  old  mule  bitten  to  death 
by  a  rattlesnake.  Three  weeks  after  we  reached  the  frontier 
the  Pawnees  and  the  Comanches  began  a  regular  series  of  hos- 
tilities on  the  Arkansas  trail,  killing  men  and  driving  off 
horses.  They  attacked,  without  exception,  every  party, 
large  or  small,  that  passed  during  the  next  six  months. 

Diamond  Spring,  Rock  Creek,  Elder  Grove,  and  other  camp- 
ing places  besides,  were  passed  all  in  quick  succession.  At 
Rock  Creek  we  found  a  train  of  government  provision  wagons 
under  the  charge  of  an  emaciated  old  man  in  his  seventy-first 
year.  Some  restless  American  devil  had  driven  him  into  the 
wilderness  at  a  time  when  he  should  have  been  seated  at  his 
fireside  with  his  grandchildren  on  his  knees.  I  am  convinced 
that  he  never  returned;  he  was  complaining  that  night  of  a 
disease,  the  wasting  effects  of  which  upon  a  younger  and 
stronger  man,  I  myself  had  proved  from  severe  experience. 
Long  ere  this  no  doubt  the  wolves  have  howled  their  moon- 
light carnival  over  the  old  man's  attenuated  remains. 

Not  long  after  we  came  to  a  small  trail  leading  to  Fort 
Leavenworth,  distant  but  one  day's  journey.  Tete  Rouge 
here  took  leave  of  us.  lie  was  anxious  to  go  to  the  fort  in 
order  to  receive  payment  for  his  valuable  military  services. 
So  he  and  his  horse  James,  after  bidding  an  affectionate  fare- 
well, set  out  together,  taking  with  them  as  much  provision  as 


296  TE^  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

tbey  could  conveniently  carry,  including  a  large  quantity  of 
brown  sugar.  On  a  cheerless  rainy  evening  we  came  to  our 
last  encamping  ground.  Some  pigs  belonging  to  a  Sbawanoe 
farmer  were  grunting  and  rooting  at  the  edge  of  the  grove. 

"I  wonder  how  fresh  pork  tastes,"  murmured  one  of  the 
party,  and  more  than  one  voice  murmured  in  response.  The 
fiat  went  forth,  "That  pig  must  die,"  and  a  rifle  was  leveled 
forthwith  at  the  countenance  of  the  plumpest  porker.  Just 
then  a  wagon  train,  with  some  twenty  Missourians,  came  out 
from  among  the  trees.  The  markman  suspended  his  aim, 
deeming  it  inexpedient  under  the  circumstances  to  consum- 
mate the  deed  of  blood. 

In  the  morning  we  made  our  toilet  as  well  as  circumstances 
would  permit,  and  that  is  saying  but  very  little.  In  spite  of 
the  dreary  rain  of  yesterday,  there  never  was  a  brighter  and 
gayer  autumnal  morning  than  that  on  which  we  returned  to 
the  settlements.  We  were  passing  through  the  country  of  the 
half-civilized  Shawanoes.  It  was  a  beautiful  alternation  of 
fertile  plains  and  groves,  whose  foliage  was  just  tinged  with 
the  hues  of  autumn,  while  close  beneath  them  rested  the  neat 
log-houses  of  the  Indian  farmers.  Every  field  and  meadow 
bespoke  the  exuberant  fertility  of  the  soil.  The  maize  stood 
rustling  in  the  wind,  matured  and  dry,  its  shining  yellow  ears 
thrust  out  betweeen  the  gaping  husks.  Squashes  and  enor- 
mous yellow  pumpkins  lay  basking  in  the  sun  in  the  midst  of 
their  brown  and  shriveled  leaves.  Robins  and  blackbirds  flew 
about  the  fences;  and  everything  in  short  betokened  our  near 
approach  to  home  and  civilization.  The  forests  that  border  on 
the  Missouri  soon  rose  before  us,  and  we  entered  the  wide  tract 
of  shrubbery  which  forms  their  outskirts.  We  had  passed  the 
same  road  on  our  outward  journey  in  the  spring,  but  its  aspect 
w^as  totally  changed.  The  young  wild  apj^le  trees,  then  flushed 
with  their  fragrant  blossoms,  were  now  hung  thickly  with 
ruddy  fruit.  Tall  grass  flourished  by  the  roadside  in  place 
of  the  tender  shoots  just  peeping  from  the  warm  and  oozy 
soil.  The  vines  were  laden  with  dark  purple  grapes,  and  the 
slender  twigs  of  the  maple,  then  tasseled  with  their  clusters  of 
small  red  flowers,  now  hung  out  a  gorgeous  display  of  leaves 
stained  by  the  frost  with  burning  crimson.  On  every  s'ide  w^e 
saw  the  tokens  of  maturity  and  decay  where  all  had  before  been 
fresh  and  beautiful.  We  entered  the  forest,  and  ourselves  and 
our  horses  were  checkered,  as  we  passed  along,  by  the  bright 
spots  of  sunlight  that  fell  between  the  opening  boughs.  On 
either  side  the  dark  rich  masses  of  foliage  almost  excluded  the 


THE  CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  297 

sun,  tliough  here  and  there  its  rays  coukl  find  their  way  down, 
striking  through  the  broad  leaves  and  lighting  them  with  a 
pure  transparent  green.  Squirrels  barked  at  us  from  the 
trees ;  coveys  of  young  partridges  ran  rustling  over  the  leaves 
below,  and  the  golden  oriole,  the  blue  jay,  and  the  flaming  red- 
bird  darted  among  the  shadowy  branches.  We  hailed  these 
sights  and  sounds  of  beauty  by  no  means  with  an  unmingled 
pleasure.  Many  and  powerful  as  were  the  attractions  which 
drew  us  toward  the  settlements,  we  looked  back  even  at  that 
moment  with  an  eager  longing  toward  the  wilderness  of 
prairies  and  mountains  behind  us.  For  myself  I  had  sufl^ered 
more  that  summer  from  illness  than  ever  before  in  my  life, 
and  yet  to  this  hour  I  cannot  recall  those  savage  scenes  and 
savage  men  without  a  strong  desire  again  to  visit  them. 

At  length,  for  the  first  time  during  about  half  a  year,  we  saw 
the  roof  of  a  white  man's  dwelling  between  the  opening  trees. 
A  few  moments  after  we  were  riding  over  the  miserable  log- 
bridge  that  leads  into  the  center  of  Westpoit.  Westport  had 
beheld  strange  scenes,  but  a  rougher  looking  troop  than  ours, 
with  our  worn  equipments  and  broken-down  horses,  was  never 
seen  even  there.  We  passed  the  well-remembered  tavern, 
Boone's  grocery  and  old  Vogel's  dram  shop,  and  encamped 
on  a  meadow  beyond.  Here  we  were  soon  visited  by  a  number 
of  people  who  came  to  purchase  our  horses  and  equipage. 
This  matter  disposed  of,  we  hired  a  wagon  and  drove  on  to 
Kansas  Landing.  Here  we  were  again  received  under  the  hos- 
pitable roof  of  our  old  friend  Colonel  Chick,  and  seated  under 
his  porch  we  looked  down  once  more  on  the  eddies  of  the 
Missouri. 

Delorier  made  his  appearance  in  the  morning,  strangely 
transformed  by  the  assistance  of  a  hat,  a  coat,  and  a  razor. 
His  little  log-house  was  among  the  woods  not  far  off.  It 
seemed  he  had  meditated  giving  a  ball  on  the  occasion  of  his 
return,  and  had  consulted  Henry  Chatillon  as  to  whether  it 
would  do  to  invite  his  bourgeois,  Ilenrj'"  expressed  his  entire 
conviction  that  we  would  not  take  it  amiss,  and  the  invitation 
was  now  proffered  accordinglj%  Delorier  adding  as  a  special 
inducement  that  Antoine  Lajeunesse  was  to  play  the  fiddle. 
We  told  him  we  would  certainly  come,  but  before  the  evening 
arrived  a  steamboat,  which  came  down  from  Fort  Leaven- 
worth, prevented  our  being  ])resent  at  the  expected  festivities. 
Delorier  was  on  the  rock  at  the  landing  place,  waiting,  to 
take  leave  of  us. 

"  Adieu!  nies  bourgeois;  adieu!  adieu!*^  he  cried  out  as  the 


298  THE  CALtFORNlA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL. 

boat  put  off;  "when  you  go  another  time  to  de  Rocky  Mon- 
tagues I  will  go  with  you;  yes,  I  will  go!" 

He  accompanied  this  patronizing  assurance  by  jumping 
about,  swinging  his  hat,  and  grinning  from  ear  to  ear.  As 
the  boat  rounded  a  distant  point,  the  last  object  that  met  our 
eyes  was  Delorier  still  lifting  his  hat  and  skipping  about  the 
rock.  We  had  taken  leave  of  Munroe  and  Jim  Gurney  at 
Westport,  and  Henry  Chatillon  went  down  in  the  boat  with 
us. 

The  passage  to  St.  Louis  occupied  eight  days,  during  about 
a  third  of  which  time  we  were  fast  aground  on  sand-bars.  We 
passed  the  steamer  Amelia  crowded  with  a  roaring  crew  of 
disbanded  volunteers,  swearing,  drinking,  gambling,  and 
fighting.  At  length  one  evening  we  reached  the  crowded 
levee  of  St.  Louis.  Repairing  to  the  Planters'  House,  we 
caused  diligent  search  to  be  made  for  our  trunks,  which  after 
some  time  were  discovered  stowed  away  in  the  farthest  corner 
of  the  storeroom.  In  the  morning  we  hardly  recognized  each 
other;  a  frock  of  broadcloth  had  supplanted  the  frock  of  buck- 
skin; well-fitted  pantaloons  took  the  place  of  the  Indian  leg- 
gings, and  polished  boots  were  substituted  for  the  gaudy 
moccasins. 

After  we  had  been  several  days  at  St.  Louis  we  heard  news 
of  Tete  Rouge.  He  had  contrived  to  reach  Fort  Leavenworth, 
where  he  had  found  the  paymaster  and  received  his  money. 
As  a  boat  was  just  ready  to  start  for  St.  Louis,  he  went  on 
board  and  engaged  his  passage.  This  done,  he  immediately 
got  drunk  on  shore,  and  the  boat  went  oft'  without  him.  It 
was  some  days  before  another  opportunity  occurred,  and  mean- 
while the  sutler's  stores  furnished  him  with  abundant  means 
of  keeping  up  his  spirits.  Another  steamboat  came  at  last,  the 
clerk  of  which  happened  to  be  a  friend  of  his,  and  by  the  ad- 
vice of  some  charitable  person  on  shore  he  persuaded  Tete 
Rouge  to  remain  on  board,  intending  to  detain  him  there  until 
the  boat  should  leave  the  fort.  At  first  Tete  Rouge  was  well 
contented  with  this  arrangement,  but  on  applying  for  a  dram, 
the  bar-keeper,  at  the  clerk's  instigation,  refused  to  let  him 
have  it.  Finding  them  both  inflexible  in  spite  of  his  entreat- 
ies, he  became  desperate  and  made  his  escape  from  the  boat. 
The  clerk  found  him  after  a  long  search  in  one  of  the  barracks; 
a  circle  of  dragoons  stood  contemplating  him  as  he  lay  on  the 
floor,  maudlin  drunk  and  crying  dismally.  With  the  help  of 
one  of  them  the  clerk  pushed  him  on  board,  and  our  informant, 
who  came  down  in  the  same  boat,  declares  that  he  remained 


THE  CALIFOUNXA  AND  OREGON  TRAIL.  299 

in  great  despondency  during  the  whole  passage.  As  we  left 
St.  Louis  soon  after  his  arrival,  we  did  not  see  the  worthless, 
good-natured  little  vagabond  again. 

On  the  evening  before  our  departure  Henry  Chatillon  came 
to  our  rooms  at  the  Planters'  House  to  take  leave  of  us.  No 
one  who  met  him  in  the  streets  of  St.  Louis  would  have  taken 
liim  for  a  hunter  fresh  from  tlie  Rocky  Mountains.  He  was 
very  neatl}^  and  simply  dressed  in  a  suit  of  dark  cloth;  for 
although,  since  his  sixteenth  year,  he  had  scarcely  been  for  a 
month  together  among  the  abodes  of  men,  he  had  a  native 
good  taste  and  a  sense  of  proprietj^  which  always  led  him  to 
pay  great  attention  to  his  jDcrsonal  appearance.  His  tall 
athletic  figure,  with  its  easy  flexible  motions,  appeared  to 
advantage  in  his  present  dress;  and  his  fine  face,  though 
roughened  by  a  thousand  storms,  was  not  at  all  out  of  keep- 
ing with  it.  We  took  leave  of  him  with  much  regret;  and 
unless  his  changing  features,  as  he  shook  us  by  the  hand,  belied 
him,  the  feeling  on  his  part  w^as  no  less  than  on  ours.*  Shaw 
had  given  him  a  horse  at  Westport.  My  rifle,  wiiich  he  had 
always  been  fond  of  using,  as  it  was  an  excellent  piece,  much 
better  than  his  own,  is  now  in  his  hands,  and  perhaps  at  this 
moment  its  sharp  voice  is  startling  the  echoes  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  On  the  next  morning  we  left  town,  and  after  a 
fortnight  of  railroads  and  steamboats  we  saw  once  more  the 
familiar  features  of  home.  ♦ 

*  I  cannot  take  leave  of  the  reader  without  adding  a  word  of  the  guide 
who  had  served  us  throughout  with  such  zeal  and  lidelity.  Indeed  liis 
services  had  far  surpassed  the  terms  of  his  engagement.  Yet  whoever 
had  been  his  employers,  or  to  whatever  closeness  of  intercourse  tliey 
might  have  thought  lit  to  admit  him,  he  would  never  have  changed  the 
bearing  of  quiet  respect  which  he  considered  due  to  his  bourgeois.  If 
sincerity  and  honor,  a  boundless  generosity  of  spirit,  a  delicate  regard 
to  the  feelings  of  others,  and  a  nice  perception  of  what  was  due  to  them, 
are  tlie  essential  characteristics  of  a  gentleman,  then  Henry  Chatillon 
deserves  the  title.  He  could  not  write  his  own  name,  and  he  had  spent 
liis  life  among  savages.  In  him  sprang  up  spontaneously  those  qualities 
which  all  the  refinements  of  life,  and  intercourse  with  {the  highest  and 
best  of  the  better  part  of  mankind,  fail  to  awaken  in  the  brutish  nature 
of  some  men.  In  spite  of  liis  bloody  calling,  Henry  was  always  humane 
and  merciful  ;  he  was  gentle  as  a  woman,  though  braver  than  a  lion. 
He  acted  ariglit  from  the  free  impulses  of  his  large  and  generous  nature. 
A  certain  species  of  selfishness  is  essential  to  the  sternness  of  spirit  which 
bears  down  opposition  and  subjects  the  will  of  others  to  its  own.  Henry's 
character  was  of  an  opposite  stamp.  His  easy  good-nature  almost 
amounted  to  weakness  ;  yet  while  it  unfitted  him  for  any  position  of 
command,  it  secured  the  esteem  and  good  will  of  all  those  who  were 
not  jealous  of  his  skill  and  reputation. 


